New Drill Press Chuck
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- Опубліковано 3 січ 2016
- Santa brought me a new chuck for the Harbor Freight 20" drill press! This is the installation of my new toy, and an updated run-out check of the press after the upgrade (and a year of use).
The replacement is an integrated arbor/chuck unit made by Vertex. It's available from Amazon:
www.amazon.com/HHIP-3701-2500-... - Навчання та стиль
That is a lot of drill press to drill with a 1/8" Dremel-size bit. Love it!!!
Matt when you are trying to measure chuck run-out under power you are really actually measuring machine vibration more than anything. If you really want to reduce your DP vibration you could start with high quality us made drive belts.also try mounting the motor on rubber threaded stud mounts to isolate motor vibration. Drive pulley's are another source of DP vibration mine were cast iron and way out of balance so I balanced them sideways like you would a lawn mower blade and drilled the pulley on the large side of the pulley to remove excess weight on the heavy portion. If your pulley set up is aluminum I probably would not bother. Probably the ultimate would be a US made motor but that would be expensive. Another idea would be spindle bearing upgrade to a Japanese ball bearings. Of course you probably don't need to do any of these things.
Nice to see just how easy that is. I know I could benefit from a new one on my inexpensive drill press too. Thanks
Awesome review. I have been wondering about this drill for a while. Thanks.
Probably the best toy from Santa (would be for
Me anyway - haha). Nice upgrade!
hey Matt little late on this but they chuck issue i always just take my old cordless keyless chucks and nock them out of the drill and then just chuck them up into the bigger chuck to use smaller drills . and you also get the benifits of a keyless chuck for your smaller drills that way also . cheers !! thanks for the review!!
I bought the same drill press earlier this year & it cost about $580.00. I had nothing but problems with from the start. Since I have been a machinist for over 20 years & know how to install machines I started with putting leveling pads on the base & leveled out he base with a machinist level. Then I leveled out the table with the machinist level. Then with a test indicator magnetic base on the spindle nose, I swept the table. Doing this measures how square the spindle is to the table. From side to side I was .125 off & from front to back I was about .060 out. So I re-leveled the table by tilting the table so I was within ,005. That was the best I could get it since when you start tightening the bolt for the table the table moves. The only way the square from front to back was to put shim stock under the column. I ended up having to put a lot of shim under the column & when I tried to tighten the bolts, two stripped out since there was only about 5 threads in the base for the bolts. I decided to get longer bolts & nuts so I could tighten all the bolts. The best I could get from front to back was .030 without putting a shit load of shim stock under the column. then it was back to squaring the the table from side to side moving the table then squaring from front to back just like you would do to any piece of machinery. The next thing I had to do was raise the motor since the top of the pulley on the motor was not level with the other pulleys. Next was checking the run out of the spindle nose. It was out by .030 moving the spindle by hand & .060 with the spindle running. The quill locking screw was a piece of shit & would lock the column into place. The markings on the depth adjustment was not accurate. Overall the drill press was a piece of crap. For my needs & the money, it was not worth all the trouble I had to go through & I took it back.
Yeah I just gave away one of these presses, slightly smaller but same make, for many of the reasons you're giving.
Bought a 1959 Delta Rockwell on Craigslist that is out only .002" TIR on the spindle and it's made of heavy cast iron with a split-casting spindle lock and better in just about every way.
Thank you for an exceptional video...I need to replace the chuck on my 16 inch floor drill press and you REALLY helped me. Being a 73 year old female means I am ALWAYS having to learn more when working what is considered a man's world of tools & machinery. Thanks again...
Glad I could help, and ladies are always especially welcome in my shop :)
Thanks Matt... questions.1) Do I stick with Central Machinery Chuck or is there a replacement that would hold up better? I drill 2 small holes and 4 larger counter-sink holes in 1/8th" thick steel bar. It requires doing this to 1,000 pieces at a time. 2) What speed should I use? 3) Best 1/2" counter-sink drill bit? Appreciate your help.
The chuck I bought is linked in the description. No need to stick with Central Machinery, in fact almost anything else will be an upgrade. You may want the security of a key-operated chuck if you're doing that much drilling though.
The bit speed will vary depending on the size of the bit and the steel alloy. If you look up your material on line you'll find the SFM or Surface Feet per Minute rate. The conversion to RPM is Rotation Speed (RPMs) = (3.82) * SFM / Bit-Diameter (in thousandth)
Counter sinks are on my shopping list, but I haven't looked yet. If you find a good one let me know!
Your help is invaluable...I have bookmarked your page. Do not know what I would do without people like yourself who are willing to help answer questions and educate me with regard to machinery. Thanks so much Matt
Matt; I followed your link, but do not see the key-operated chuck. I have never been able to tighten non-key drills, so will def follow your lead with regard to that. Can you please give me some input as to where to purchase the keyed chuck, along with the best one for my needs....w/o costing the most :)
Thanks for the link Matt. I gotta get one of those ! I hate having to use those keys, but, I guess till I upgrade it's a necessary evil...
Great stuff. thanks for sharing.
Hi Matt, We have a new Harbor Freight in town and I am SO glad to hear that you are happy with your 20" drill press. That's the one I have my eye on. Although, I would never NEED to use a 1" shank drill, I love the large table and total height of the unit. I suspect it is the same unit other companies sell under their brands and color schemes. Probably made in the same factory too. Thanks for the in-depth way you approach your project/review videos. All the best, Charlie
+Charlie Zellner Thanks Charlie. Yep, as best as I can tell this is exactly the same unit that Grizzly sells as their 20" offering. There are some higher end presses on the market these days, like the nice new Powermatic that Marc Spaguolo has, but with the new chuck in place I can't think of a single way that I wish for more out of this particular press.
great videos. exactly what I was wondering about. thanks.
A cheaper solution to buying a new chuck... is run a 1/8th" bit with a hex shank.
That's what I did with mine.
Oh yes, your chuck problem is mine and your solution seems like mine.
Many thanks
Cy O'Hara
Hey Matt i have the 13"x16s HF and love it for the $.. im getting a speed chuck also being a CNC of 30+ yrs its got to be best i can afford with in reason.
Nice vid, thanks for sharing. I have what appears to be the same drill press, but mine is over 20 years old. Still runs great. Do you happen to know what taper the chuck is? Never mind. I found the answer on your other drill press video. #3 Morse and #3 Jacobs
Very good video
Great video on the drill press! A keyless chuck is a great improvement. Where did you get the new chuck and what brand is it? I would like to do the same thing to my drill press.
great video thanks !
Thank you brother! I bought the 17" version, used and got that weird wedge thing at the last minute with a bunch of gigantic bits, and had no idea what it was for! Have you tried to do any milling with that new chuck?
Good presentation and good info. Subbed.
At higher RPMs you are driving the arm of the dial indicator at a higher speed. Some of that higher reading is the inertial of the arm overcoming the compression of the spring. If you had a camera to capture the interface between the test dowel and the sensing arm of the dial indicator I'll bet you'd see it 'jumping' off the dowel. I think your slow test is more reflective of reality.
+Andrew Tubbiolo 100% correct. I'd need a camera that will let me jack up the shutter speed for each frame so that I can freeze the motion better. The GoPro only allows me to control the frame rate. If I'd used the DSLR I could have gone as high as 1/4000th on the shutter, but only at 30 fps.
Hi folks ... I just wanted to add that the vibrations of the running machine (even small vibrations) would shake your dial holding apparatus, which would mess up your measurements ... even if the sensing arm never left the dowel. I spoke with the tech guy at Jacobs Chuck company (Apex Tool), and he said all runout measurements should be taken 1 inch below the jaws at 1/2 chuck. That means a 1/4 inch steel shank in a 1/2 inch chuck. Measurements should be taken 1-inch below the jaw tips, and only by hand turning.
Great video!
I need to by a dial indicator and test my equipment.
Get a Chinese one, a Shars will be about $20.00.
Not bad. I love good quality keyless chucks. The original is called Albrecht, made in Germany. Also over $300. The reproductions are quite good. Some of that runout may be traceable to Chinese spindle bearings, quill to body fit, or to vibration in the splined spindle shaft as it passes through the pulley.
The new model HF production drill press now comes with a MT4 arbor, so the Vertex integrated chuck no longer works. I found out the hard way, having bought the chuck before having removed the factory arbor. Although the owner's manual that came with the press - i didn't read it obviously - shows the MT4 spec, the on-lime HF version still shows an MT3 spec. Having trouble finding an integrated MT4 chuck. any leads?
I have the same exact drill press with the same exact problems where did you find the smaller Chuck I went to the harbor freight store but they didn't have a clue where I could find one.
My little drill press does not have a Morse Taper I still plan to go keyless it will just be a bit more of a challenge.
Where did you get the smaller Chuck I would love to get one of those because I plan on buying the same jewel price that you got. Please let me know where you got that smaller truck for your drill press to put in a 1/16 drill bit I’m looking forward to your response.
need help please, I have the HF 8 in drill press drilling 1mm holes. the wobble is to much for tiny bits. What's the name and will it fit my 8 in drill? thanks
Matt what is the morse taper for this drill press and where / what is the part number of the chuck you have replaced the original one with?
Got the chuck, now where to get the machinist clamps for the table??
I have the newer model 20" Drill press with the MT4 taper on the headstock side of the arbor. Does anyone know what the taper is on the chuck side? JT3? JT33? The reason I ask, is because you can just buy the keyless chuck itself, sans arbor, and use the original arbor if you are willing to forego the integrated unit. This is a much cheaper solution, but I'm one piece of info away.
I noticed that you changed out the chuck with a built in arbor. If your drill was really wobbly would you still have to replace the spindle and bearings?
You can also purchase a chuck without an attached arbor. They make the arbors with the various Morse and other tapers on one end and a variety of Jacobs tapers on the end for the chuck. This allows you to more easily purchase the exact chuck that you want.
A tip: when you are going to mount a taper in the spindle it is a good idea to always clean both the taper itself and the inside of the hole in the spindle just prior to inserting it. This avoids having a metal chip or a grain of sawdust between them which will cause run-out and also may allow the chuck to fall out during use. I use a clean rag for the taper and the clean rag over a clean finger for the hole.
Hey Matt: Awesome review. I've also been looking at this press with the attitude that I would be getting a "kit" that can be improved. I've watched all three of your vids on this machine and like them a lot. If I bought this machine, I would take the head completely apart and clean out all the manufacturing iron dust and crud, smooth up any rough casting if necessary, then re-assemble it slowly and lovingly with proper lube, upgraded hardware (grade 8), a better chuck (thanks), and whatever mods I could find to improve it.
Question: Did you ever check the pulleys for parallel? If so, how were they? Did you install link belts?
The pulleys are parallel as far as I can tell with just a straight edge and looking for gaps. I never did bother to swap out the belts for a links. The machine is heavy and well aligned enough that the vibration is really minimal, especially with the new chuck.
Hiii Matt :) hilarious now that I need to do exactly this swap
Please help just got mine put together turned it on an the chuck wobbles bad what can I do
here os my thought , if you get big drill like you should many different chucks because not all are the same , so are for drill bits and they some out there for other things ,
will one of those fit pretty much any drill press ?
I picked this drill press up today. It appears the chuck has 10thou plus of run out going to replace it with a USA 🇺🇸 chuck and go from there other then that it’s deff worth the $400 the grizzly is far much more and probably has the same run out
Every drill press does NOT come with a Morse taper arbor, just the big boys. Smaller drill presses are more likely to use a JT33 chuck. But I love your press.
Hi Sir
How To Make Drill Chuck Key
I Want A New Drill Chuck Key
Only key Please Tell Me
The replacement chuck link is in the description. HF sells two versions of the press, one with a #3 Morse taper in the quill and one with a #4 taper.
I must have the opposite to what you have because I bought the chuck you had linked and it doesn't fit. It's too small.
How do you know which one, like some writing on the part? The manual indicates MT3, item 61487
Enjoyed the video Matt, it's important to have things right for good accuracy. Off topic, what software did you use for the fast forward and picture in picture shot of the dial indicator? Thanks
+Ozzstar I bit the bullet last year and signed up for Adobe Creative Cloud, so I do all my editing in Premiere Pro, with occasional help from After Effects when I'm feeling creative - and Audition when I bugger up the audio... It's not a cheap option, but I think of it like any other tool purchase that I didn't really need but sure makes life nicer.
+Matt Heere thanks! I'll check into it
+Ozzstar No problem. I should have also mentioned that pretty much all of this would have been possible in Premiere Elements. That's a far more economical option, particularly if you have no use for the rest of the Adobe suite of stuff.
+Matt Heere Premeir elements does all of what I want it to do which is most of the full Premiere. You might consider the elements Photshop/Premier Elements bundle (that's what I have) which is even cheaper for the two.
+MRrwmac I started out that way and you're right that it's a good option. Having used full Premiere for a year now I can tell you that there's a world of difference between it and Elements - but that doesn't mean that most people need these things, especially for UA-cam.
I do a lot with still photos too, so I end up using at least 6 apps out of the Adobe CC suite. Makes it an acceptable investment for me. It's definitely not for everyone though, and I'm glad Adobe still offers the Elements bundle. Now if they would just make it Premiere and Lightroom Elements instead of Photoshop....
Good video. Thanks. What size is your new chuck and what brand?
+Steve Brown Check the bottom of the description. I put the Amazon link in there, and it has all the specs.
nice
HI Matt
could you please tell me where did you buy your drill press, I'm looking for something similar
Harbor Freight. There's a separate video on the unboxing and assembly.
Hi Matt, Just found that you had done these vids just as I was contemplating this purchase (maybe I just forgot you did them:) Can you tell me if you impressions are still the same as of today? Still a great buy?
Yep. I've used it quite a bit and it's holding up just fine. Now I do mostly wood working, which isn't a tough duty as metal, but no complaints to date.
Can't I use my dead-soft copper sledge to tap it in? It is what I cast it for. ;)
I am in the market for a new drill press! The floor models all seem expensive & the table top models, I am not sure that I would be pleased! Please keep in mind that I refuse to buy anything electronic from harbor freight due to the fact that every electronic item that I purchased from Harbor freight went up in smoke instantly! THREE SEPERATE ITEMS! AN ELECTRIC DIE GRINDER, A 6" BENCH GRINDER, & A 8"BENCH GRINDER SO, I went to Lowe's & purchased a 6" Delta bench grinder & it works good! So, I never considered purchasing a Harbor Freight drill press! How much did it cost? I need to look it up! Plus, I get a discount at one of the mentioned stores!!!! I have been eyeing up the floor model type of Delta drill press for arround $500.00 right now (usually $550.00!) I have always thought about using a drill press to bore out an engine though, I am sure that is an unreasonable idea for many reasons! Wish that I had my own machine shop, wood shop, & blacksmith shop, maybe one day?
Great video. Is the table square to the Drill Chuck?
Mine is.
I bought the drill press based on your video and reply. I wish to thank you, I enjoy the tool to date. The motor cannot be wired to reverse (essential for tapping a drilled hole efficiently) I'll be replacing the motor and adding a drum switch to allow rotation reversal. Thank you. For $450 it's a pretty cool drill press, and the table is square in both X and Y.
where you get the chuck from
The wedge is called a "drift" the keyed part of the taper is the "tang" the 7 to 10 thou under power is akin to a vibration measurement. Vibration might be reduced by a better belt and static balancing your quill. intermediate and motor pulley's. hope this helps...love those keyless chucks!
Thanks Rob, and you're right about the belt. It's less of an issue now that I have reliable heat in the shop, but it's clearly one of the places where they went cheap on the build, and it's such an easy upgrade.
Hey Matt, I've got the 10" HF 12-speed drill. I'd like to do the same upgrade. I can't figure out what size integrated keyless chuck I need. Can you comment on what I need
It's a Morse Taper 3 (MT3) on mine. The chuck I used is linked in the description. I can't speak to what size it would be for any other press.
@@MattHeere Thanks Matt. I watch your videos on youtube and have learned a lot regarding woodworking. thanks
How do you loosen the chuck when the spindle is free to turn?
Top of the chuck has a grip you can hold to tighten or loosen the chuck itself. It's obviously not as strong as a keyed chuck, but so far strong enough for anything I've needed.
What is the brand and model of the new chuck?
+Joseph Poindexter Check the description. All the info + and Amazon link are in there.
I'm leaning towards getting this keyless chuck for my benchtop drill press, but at $150, I'm gonna have to think about it ?
It's a great chuck and has held up 100%. Price has gone up unfortunately. It wasn't this much when I bought it, but having seen how well it works I still think it's a good investment. Especially since the drill press as a whole seems bomb-proof and I expect to have it for many many years.
Keep an eye on Ebay. I got one brand new for $90.00. There are also less expensive brands out there.
It’s Phil Mitchell
What is the brand of your new chuck ?
Vertex. Link to it on Amazon is in the description.
Thanks for a really informative video! It was very helpfull indeed. You have a new subscriber. I am currently assembling a cheap drill press, and found it had some wobble after assembly, and that the drill bit was not square with the table in the back-forward direction. So... I have some work adhead of me. Where was that arbor/chuck piece bought by the way?
If you have the inclination, stop by my fledgling woodworking channel, aNomadsProjects, and show some support. Cheers.
599 now cost of the drill
My name is Rick harrison and this is my pawnshop
LOL. Do I get the money that goes with that? ;)
the tool is called a DRIFT.
Cant buy with % off coupons anymore
Why does my bit keep falling out my keyless chuck. It’s driving me crazy
Make sure the chuck is designed for the size bit you're using. Too big or too small and it won't grip. Make sure you have enough of the bit up in the chuck. It doesn't just hold at the tip. And then obviously make sure you're getting it tight. Most keyless chucks have a ring you're supposed to hold steady while tightening the other one. It's keyless - but not one handed.
Matt Heere thanks for the reply. It’s a 6mm and the Chuck says 1mm to 16mm on it. It’s a Axminster drill press. I managed to get it to hold better giving it super tighten. Thanks again 👍
The drill press looks great. Give me a keyed chuck any day. Don't like keyless.
go to ebay,,buy a smaller chuck that goes INTO your chuck,,they are awesome for smaller bits!
#1 I am not a big fan of No Key chucks. I replaced every one of my hand drill chucks with Key type chucks.
My solution to Big chuck is I bought a small Jacobs "key type" chuck with a straight 1/2" shank that I could chuck with my larger chuck. Less expensive than a larger chuck with a tapered shank and quicker and easier to change.
The "thing" is called a "Drift Pin". Just saying.
Checking runout with machine running is not cool.
Didn't know rick harrison liked woodworking.
A 1/8 bit with a hex base is cheaper than a new chuck.
You must drive a mack truck to the shops for milk
Went to Amazon, that chuck is $137. ????
Look on Ebay. You can get the same one for $100 or less
I wish I would have known that you wanted a key-less chuck, you could of had mine, just can't stand the keyless chuck, mine is being replaced with a keyed-chuck, different strokes for different folks..
In the end I'm glad I have both. A good keyless chuck is really convenient (a poor one is a disaster) but sometimes you just need the holding power of those gears.
ten though of runout with it running could be vibration and or dust or just a piece of hair off your beard or head.
Now a hair is only about .003 but they very and with the drill running that might act like a mini ramp causing the needle to jump that far.
If that's the worst case its better than most drill presses made today even one in a machine shop isn't that good.
But here is my point Why do you need a drill press that good working with wood? Come on its wood a 5 dg temperature change the hole's changed it shape. add 30% humidity the hole egg shaped now.
Its not like your drilling 6061 aircraft aluminum and making parts for a Jet engine where more than a few tenths would cause the motor to explode. I really doubt your doing anything at home that's got to be that precise.
There is a difference between woodworking and metal fabrication or machining parts.
I like the use of the step blocks for a drill press Smart move, these are used on Mills and will hold down super strong.
You parts not going to move.
I cringe when I see some fool holding metal with his hands on a drill press, if the bit grabs it will sling that part before you can let go. And somthing is going to give be it the drill press, the part your arm or the drill bit.
I'd find me a machine shop drill vice clamp that down the its always set up ready to go.
because the step blocks can be a pain to move and set up but one they are on its locked into place.
Thanks for the film anyway. Now I'll be looking into a Harbor freight drill press because with some American made parts you can make it a good one. Your Chuck cost as much as the drill press I'll bet.
Also I don't care what your drilling, you want the chuck as tight as you can get it, or the bit can spin in the chuck messing up the chuck and the shank of the drill bit. Tight is always better.
It's sounds like you bought too much drill press and then dumbed it down. I did the opposite. 🙄
Ah, but now can you add a REVERSING SWITCH? ua-cam.com/video/DBdBgmRuP84/v-deo.html
Machine vibration, will give false readings.