Finally a sculpting video that has tolerable music, a welcome change! I also prefer the cutting mat background. I honestly have no complaints with the video.
Thanks for the tutorial, Tom! I've watched many of them and you've inspired me to start my own sculpting. I'd been hoping for a while that you would do one on sculpting long hair. As for the cutting mat, I actually like it as it gives a better sense of scale when you set the mini down.
You legend. Trying to sculpt a large beard and never considered making a small armature for it before adding details. Really appreciate this, the simple things huh. :)
Is that small spatula tool you're using at 12:00 custom made? I've been looking for something like this, but not able to find something that matches the exact profile.
Tom Mason Cool. There's a PDF from a German guy who wrote on how to make a lot of these custom tools. I just lack the bench grinder, propane torch, and jeweler's anvil to make them. Hopefully there's one out there that costs less than BMC chisels. I have a real hard time justifying $40 for a single hand tool. Not going to lie though, they make superb tiny panel lines for gunpla and I may just have to shell out for them one day when I'm better off financially.
Awesome video Tom - All the changes are welcome and your videos are really coming out well, especially the blend between time lapse and real time (the cutting mat, btw, is fantastic for viewing). Quick question regarding your moulding process; I've learnt that FIMO doesn't Vulcanise well. Do you have another production method, or do you precast in resin before shipping off the masters? Either way I'd love to see a video on your techniques. Again - great job with the new style of videos. Michael
+AnyCleverUsername FIMO can be a problem to vulcanize. However I use a great mold making company who uses low-temp rubber. This allows my models to be molded directly in the rubber without any other processes such as resin casting, etc. Thanks!
+Tom Mason Thanks for your excellent videos Tom. I really like your style of sculpting. There was a time I had a "mini" mini career going off and on, did some work for Wiz Kids, Excelsior Entertainment and Reaper, enjoyed every minute of it but I kept falling off the horse, hard, and haven't got back on again...It's been years. I find the Green Stuff to be like bubble gum and the Procreate is better, but it gets too weird and pasty/slick when using water with it to smooth. I've been on a quest to find the right putty, tried all the mad scientist mixes and it seems to be one that is all or more poly clay with a small mix of the two part epoxies. I want to try your poly clay mix you mentioned, and the BeesWax. But the most important thing is getting the stuff cast in a resin or plastic. If I can't both sculpt my way with a medium that works with me and have the sculpts cast in a way and material that preserves my original, I just can't do it. I want to be able to keep my original sculpt without it being destroyed by the vulcanizing process. I understand that's just the nature of white metal castings, but would rather have resin or plastic castings and keep the original sculpt in the same condition as when it was made. The molds wear out faster on resin casting, but the original sculpt will last forever. That's what I'm looking for, but I don't have the money to set up my own resin casting operation. Forgive me if I'm being too forward, but could you please mention where you go to have castings of your work done? You seem to be going about everything in a way I would want to. Thanks again.
+GamerZapocalypse very cool to hear about your career in sculpting. I'd love to see some of your work sometime if you'd like to share your name. RTV is definitely the most safe for casting originals, but as you say, the resin masters won't last forever. I use Fortress Figures for all my molding. They have a great vulcanizing process that can cast my polyclay sculpts with virtually no degradation to the original. If there is any it's usually because of a fragile part I created and not due to their treatment of the sculpt. If you cook the polyclay sculpt properly and use Fortress, you should get your original back every time. Feel free to get in touch with them. The guys there are super helpful and the most knowledgeable in the industry. Look forward to seeing more of your sculpts!
+Tom Mason Thanks Tom. I really appreciate the help. This is very encouraging and inspiring. Here's all the stuff I've done more or less over the years on my Flikr page. (It's really just a handfull): www.flickr.com/photos/128248274@N05/albums/72157659535258703 I'm going to see what I can come up with. My names Tim Kauffman
Hi Tom - Thanks for another great video - Could I ask you some general questions please ... What is the blend of Fimo you use ? What are the Jar lids for - do you use these with the jar itself ? Do you part bake as you go along ? Have you done a video to help us make the right decisions in regards to getting our sculpts actually cast ( assumeing we ever get good enough ) PS - really looking forward to the 15mm videos
+Tenby Severn the FIMO blend I use is as follows: 80% FIMO Classic - White 20% FIMO Classic - Black Then I add about 20% of FIMO Mix-Quick to condition it. I put all my sculpts in upside down jars and seal them up when not working. It keeps dust off the sculpt and protects it in case I bump it. Great for travel as well! I haven't done a video on making your sculpts mold friendly, but I plan on covering that for sure. If you'd like to vote on what tutorials I do next, check out the details on my Patreon. 15mm tutorial is next up! Thanks for the questions and watching the videos.
Tom Mason I want to get some sister of battle but I just fo not like the short hair. I like girls with long Rapunzel hair. I want to use some green stuff or different models. I keep coming to your video. 😀👍
+General Splatton thanks! I'm currently using the camera on my iPhone 6. It does an amazing job, especially if it's setup with good lighting. I would like to get a dedicated camera down the road so I can do more dynamic zooming and have some other control. But for now this does an excellent job.
+Jeremy Grefe essentially FIMO is infinitely workable. FIMO only hardens once it's baked in the oven. However it can become dry if left for several weeks or months, but it can still be worked with.
Jan. 2018---Thanks for this video and the others you've made. After 15 years, in late 2016, thought of getting back into modeling. Thing is, didn't want to back to aircraft/armor. Wondered and was really surprised by the number of people who build zombie/apocalypse type dioramas. Once I saw them, been hooked since. Mine will be 1/35th scale and biggest problem is lack of civilian figures. Sure, there are resin ones available, but at $8 to $30 each, that's kind of expensive when you're looking at having up to several dozen figures in one diorama. Was attempting to modify some of my military figures, then found/bought Master Box's pinup girls and Trumpeters African freedom fighters. There's still a lot of military figures I want to use as/modify as civilians, but they're always wearing helmets?! With this and your other videos, I can give them hair, even long hippie type hair and beards.
Finally a sculpting video that has tolerable music, a welcome change! I also prefer the cutting mat background. I honestly have no complaints with the video.
Love the updated production quality. Your videos were fine before, but the additional music and editing has made them even better! Thanks!
+shinrido only thing left is to make a nice thumbnail/splash image. Thanks again for supporting the channel!
Thanks for the tutorial, Tom! I've watched many of them and you've inspired me to start my own sculpting. I'd been hoping for a while that you would do one on sculpting long hair. As for the cutting mat, I actually like it as it gives a better sense of scale when you set the mini down.
+Andrew Goldstein great to hear your feedback Andrew. Also, thanks for supporting on Patreon!
A lot of love and care is put into so much of your work.
Thank you very much for noticing.
I like the mat background!
Thanks! I think it makes for a nice backdrop as well.
You legend. Trying to sculpt a large beard and never considered making a small armature for it before adding details. Really appreciate this, the simple things huh. :)
+steve hood no problem. Glad the video was helpful.
The cutting mat is a fine background. No problem seeing what you're doing at all.
+Chris Salter looks so much more authentic too, eh? :D
Your channel is great!
Your tutorials have really helped me a lot! However (If you're able and willing) could you do a tutorial on sculpting torn of frayed fabric?
+KannibalKorpz666 another great idea! I'm always looking for suggestions and will add it to the list.
great video bro! now i can sculpt some edgy hair for my raven gaurd
Rock on!
Is there body sculpting tutorial for male and a female?
I don't have a specific full video on that topic. The videos on bodies are more general. Perhaps some day.
Is that small spatula tool you're using at 12:00 custom made? I've been looking for something like this, but not able to find something that matches the exact profile.
Yes it's hand made. I'm on the look out for a similar tool I can suggest to others, so stay tuned.
Tom Mason
Cool. There's a PDF from a German guy who wrote on how to make a lot of these custom tools. I just lack the bench grinder, propane torch, and jeweler's anvil to make them. Hopefully there's one out there that costs less than BMC chisels. I have a real hard time justifying $40 for a single hand tool. Not going to lie though, they make superb tiny panel lines for gunpla and I may just have to shell out for them one day when I'm better off financially.
Awesome video Tom -
All the changes are welcome and your videos are really coming out well, especially the blend between time lapse and real time (the cutting mat, btw, is fantastic for viewing).
Quick question regarding your moulding process;
I've learnt that FIMO doesn't Vulcanise well. Do you have another production method, or do you precast in resin before shipping off the masters?
Either way I'd love to see a video on your techniques.
Again - great job with the new style of videos.
Michael
+AnyCleverUsername FIMO can be a problem to vulcanize. However I use a great mold making company who uses low-temp rubber. This allows my models to be molded directly in the rubber without any other processes such as resin casting, etc.
Thanks!
+Tom Mason Thanks for your excellent videos Tom. I really like your style of sculpting.
There was a time I had a "mini" mini career going off and on, did some work for Wiz Kids, Excelsior Entertainment and Reaper, enjoyed every minute of it but I kept falling off the horse, hard, and haven't got back on again...It's been years.
I find the Green Stuff to be like bubble gum and the Procreate is better, but it gets too weird and pasty/slick when using water with it to smooth.
I've been on a quest to find the right putty, tried all the mad scientist mixes and it seems to be one that is all or more poly clay with a small mix of the two part epoxies.
I want to try your poly clay mix you mentioned, and the BeesWax. But the most important thing is getting the stuff cast in a resin or plastic.
If I can't both sculpt my way with a medium that works with me and have the sculpts cast in a way and material that preserves my original, I just can't do it. I want to be able to keep my original sculpt without it being destroyed by the vulcanizing process. I understand that's just the nature of white metal castings, but would rather have resin or plastic castings and keep the original sculpt in the same condition as when it was made. The molds wear out faster on resin casting, but the original sculpt will last forever. That's what I'm looking for, but I don't have the money to set up my own resin casting operation.
Forgive me if I'm being too forward, but could you please mention where you go to have castings of your work done? You seem to be going about everything in a way I would want to.
Thanks again.
+GamerZapocalypse very cool to hear about your career in sculpting. I'd love to see some of your work sometime if you'd like to share your name.
RTV is definitely the most safe for casting originals, but as you say, the resin masters won't last forever. I use Fortress Figures for all my molding. They have a great vulcanizing process that can cast my polyclay sculpts with virtually no degradation to the original. If there is any it's usually because of a fragile part I created and not due to their treatment of the sculpt.
If you cook the polyclay sculpt properly and use Fortress, you should get your original back every time. Feel free to get in touch with them. The guys there are super helpful and the most knowledgeable in the industry.
Look forward to seeing more of your sculpts!
+Tom Mason Thanks Tom. I really appreciate the help. This is very encouraging and inspiring.
Here's all the stuff I've done more or less over the years on my Flikr page. (It's really just a handfull):
www.flickr.com/photos/128248274@N05/albums/72157659535258703
I'm going to see what I can come up with. My names Tim Kauffman
Ha!!! I have one of your minis.
The winged demon female. Not sure of the name.
Awesome sculpt. Wings were really well sculpted.
Get back on the horse.
Hi Tom - Thanks for another great video - Could I ask you some general questions please ...
What is the blend of Fimo you use ?
What are the Jar lids for - do you use these with the jar itself ?
Do you part bake as you go along ?
Have you done a video to help us make the right decisions in regards to getting our sculpts actually cast ( assumeing we ever get good enough )
PS - really looking forward to the 15mm videos
+Tenby Severn the FIMO blend I use is as follows:
80% FIMO Classic - White
20% FIMO Classic - Black
Then I add about 20% of FIMO Mix-Quick to condition it.
I put all my sculpts in upside down jars and seal them up when not working. It keeps dust off the sculpt and protects it in case I bump it. Great for travel as well!
I haven't done a video on making your sculpts mold friendly, but I plan on covering that for sure. If you'd like to vote on what tutorials I do next, check out the details on my Patreon.
15mm tutorial is next up!
Thanks for the questions and watching the videos.
Actual start at 1:20
Show how to make braided, Rapunzel hair for sister of battle. I hate the short hair on the sister in battle.
That's a great idea. And I agree, the bob is boring!
Tom Mason I want to get some sister of battle but I just fo not like the short hair. I like girls with long Rapunzel hair. I want to use some green stuff or different models. I keep coming to your video. 😀👍
Excellent work on the figure! What kind of camera do you use?
+General Splatton thanks! I'm currently using the camera on my iPhone 6. It does an amazing job, especially if it's setup with good lighting. I would like to get a dedicated camera down the road so I can do more dynamic zooming and have some other control. But for now this does an excellent job.
brilliant mate love this!!! could I ask where do you get you miniature holder from? or how do you make it
I make them myself! If you look back in he videos a few months, you should find one where I document the process. Thanks for watching.
Hi Tom!Nice video.HOW LONG IS THE FIMO WORKABLE AFTER ITS EXPOSED TO THE AIR?
+Jeremy Grefe essentially FIMO is infinitely workable. FIMO only hardens once it's baked in the oven. However it can become dry if left for several weeks or months, but it can still be worked with.
@@TomMasonSculptor I saw they also have an air curing version of FIMO but I haven't seen someone work with it to judge the softness or curing speed.
wow that's awesome.
What material do you use?
Yorel Mfk for this figure, I'm using FIMO Classic (Professional).
Jan. 2018---Thanks for this video and the others you've made. After 15 years, in late 2016, thought of getting back into modeling. Thing is, didn't want to back to aircraft/armor. Wondered and was really surprised by the number of people who build zombie/apocalypse type dioramas. Once I saw them, been hooked since. Mine will be 1/35th scale and biggest problem is lack of civilian figures. Sure, there are resin ones available, but at $8 to $30 each, that's kind of expensive when you're looking at having up to several dozen figures in one diorama. Was attempting to modify some of my military figures, then found/bought Master Box's pinup girls and Trumpeters African freedom fighters. There's still a lot of military figures I want to use as/modify as civilians, but they're always wearing helmets?! With this and your other videos, I can give them hair, even long hippie type hair and beards.
That's great to hear! These sound like they will be some cool looking dioramas.
I found this video thinking: "I need some tips for converting", came out looking at the playlist and thinking: "could I just sculpt my own?"
HAHAHA, that’s awesome. You definitely can, and conversions are a great way to start practicing.
She looks like Max Wall's professor Wollofski.
I’m not familiar. Is that a good thing? Haha