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You are kinda the BASF of the rockhounding world. You did not make the Trim Saw you made the Trim Saw better. Great upload, very informative. We just went to Ouray Colorado today for my wife's birthday and got to see a very very cool Rhodochrosite sample that was found in the area. Still waiting for spring at our home.... have surpassed 160" of snow for the season which makes rockhounding in the San Juan Mountains even more difficult LOL! Cheers!
Put your diesel heater duct into the plastic hood on the saw and preheat it before you use it. It may be fogging because of the temperature difference and the hot vapor condensing on cold surfaces.
There are some red coloured waxes that can be polished on to the bathroom mirror The color is only so you don’t miss areas as it polishes out clear Don’t have a clue where to find it But a good home improvement place Looks like a crayon Designed for wet warm humidity When you need to see mirror
This is great stuff! I joke about OCD getting me so hung up on these little issues that it limits my production. You literally read my mind with this stuff.
I’m guessing the tricky part about that drain spigot would be to get the hole drilled as low as possible to drain as much water as possible. Very interesting upgrades 👍
couple things you could try for the cover but they’re only temporary measures (but cheap!). rub some blue dawn dish soap on it until it’s nice and clear or use a hockey visor anti fog spray?
Excellent video my compliments on your delivery. I'm looking to purchase the TS10 and will be putting it in the spare room in the house so I will defiantly need to borrow your good ideas
I have an Lortone - Lux 6 I just replaced the bearings. It runs so amazingly smooth now. I have modified it to drain from the bottom not from the side. now it drains properly. Since I did that, I have had no cross contamination from water splash in the bottom of the water tray. The bearings were the same ones you used on your lap machine. They were the bearings with the permanet collar, I liked the colar set up better. I will use oil in the trim saw side. I have long since stopped useing Mineral oil and switched to Canola Oil. Canola oil is one of the only vegetable oils that has the proper acidic qualities to stick to the blade for lubrication. My opinion only no endorsements for oil.
One thing to consider is that you don't really want oil sticking to the blade. The main reason for the lightweight NF70 mineral oil is that it clear the cutting kerf and allow the blade to cool as it spins through the oil but it comes off leaving a clean blade on each revolution. Have to done side by side cut comparisons using the different lucubration's?
An on-demand automotive washer pump and nozzle might work for eliminating fog and also that line of slurry that always builds up on transparent splash guards. It could be foot pedal operated so your hands stay on the stone to avoid a mishap. You do excellent work on upgrades to make your machines custom performers. Will Penny's comment about Rain-x fog is a smart and quick potential fix.
Those link adjustable belts look awesome! Going to have to try it out. I’m working on minimizing vibration in my much smaller 2 wheel arbor. … btw, if you haven’t tried it yet, check out WD-40 white grease for your bearings. Magical! Rub baby shampoo on inside of your clear plastic hood. Divers do same to prevent dive masks from fogging up.
I've used Lemon Pledge furniture polish on my motorcycle windshields for years. Water beads and rolls off. I run kerosene in my trimsaw, and don't have a clear shield, so have never tried it. Might work. Most of my machines are 70's H.P., and made of cast aluminum, or heavy steel, so never had much of a noise problem. The matting is a good idea if I ever have that problem. I'll keep it in mind, thanks.
You're gonna have to install a windshield wiper LOL! That was a satisfying upgrade though. I'm not sure if there's a lot you can do using warm water in the cold it's going to steam up. Even with a hydrophobic surface I'm thinking it's going to be unavoidable, but I hope you are successful.
Ha! I kinda wanna do that just for the laughs. I guess I was hoping that with the warm water I would be able to somehow getting it to still bead up and roll down but perhaps its not really going to work well.
Also, a polish like Koch Chemie P6 01 has a sealant in it that would provide a great protective and water beeding solution for your plastic cover. If you find the Rain X wears away quickly. However Rainx would be less expensive for sure.
I don't know about using warm water in the saw. It will always steam up and there isn't a whole lot you can do about it. But the other upgrades were fabulous. I'm a little disappointed in the rainx on your cover though. The rainx that's made for glass works so much better and they do make a product that stops eye glass lenses from fogging up, I don't remember the trade name but it's something to look into maybe. Because it's made for plastic lenses. I used to have some and it worked great, because my glasses used to fog up all the time going from indoors to outdoors and vice versa. Just a thought. It is a lot quieter now though. Great job!
I'm also a little disappointed in the Rain-X for the plastic, I guess I was hoping that it would work because if it did that would be so nice to able to run warm water and be able to see what I'm doing but it doesn't seem like there is a really good product for this application.
@@CurrentlyRockhounding I've never seen rainx fail so miserably before. It did absolutely nothing and that is unusual. I've used rainx one my windshield and on my mirrors and it works fabulous. I don't know if it is because it's plastic or not. Maybe use the glass product on the plastic? I don't think you should totally give up on the rainx yet because I know that it does work on glass.
Anytime you have sheet metal like that it's going to be tinny sounding, your deadening is a good solution. To help soften felt vibrations you could put a rubber pad between the motor and its mounting point, also the pillow blocks, a very thing piece of rubber wouldn't change location enough to matter, but that is a lot more work that might not make the difference worth it. Me personally I wouldn't use the cover at all! We have a very similar trim saw in my clubs workshop and it only has a splash guard between the user and the machine. We don't get water all over, there is some, it's not perfect. We are in a community center so the room we use is shared, we have to put everything away after every shop night and there isn't a lot of water to clean up! I do like the cover, wish it worked better. I like those linked belts, how good is the longevity? The direction of those points on the links makes total sense if you really think about it! You want them to lay down, Opposite direction I would think would cause it to want to lift the belt off the pulley! Thanks I like this type of video.
I like the idea of the thin rubber, I think could be a good solution as well that I might add. Thank you for that. I have had one of these belts on my bigger saw for 3 or 4 years now and its just fine so I think they will last a very long time considering that they are generally slow speed and not used super often being that it is in a hobby lapidary shop.
I would try an infra-red heat lamp on your saw. fog/condensation happens when a warm vapor hits a cold surface, so having a light heat the plastic will keep the condensation (fog) off.
It's always fun watching the Mr. Gadget side of you. Hey 2 out of 3 worked. Isn't there a product that stops mirrors and glasses from fogging up? Keep the mind working and the hands busy. Oh, by the way, nice cut on the geode. 😷⚒
I have an older 10" trim saw that had no drain hole. I did the same thing as you and added a ball valve. I used PVC instead of brass for the tubing though. My plastic hood has been cracked many times. Can you tell me the dimensions of your hood? The Lortone website shows a replacement part #, but does not give the width X length dimensions. I would love to replace mine if it will fit. Great minds think alike! Thanks for showing this. I'll also be looking into sound dampening too.
You could add a heat pad from the pet shop to the bottom of the water tank, it would dampen sound and heat the water so you could maintain temp in the saw it's self... cool ideas, thanks for sharing! Edit: I wonder if you added a small water pump with a little hose and route it so it sprays right at the spot you need to see through or trickles down the inside there, then it wouldnt be a mist or steam it would be a small amount of running water.... it would still cause a distortion but other than a little wiper not sure you have many options....
Light layer of mineral oil applied with a clean soft cloth, maybe? Might be a tad blurry, but you might be able to cut some of the cloudiness from the foggy condensation. Just guessing here.
Maybe some forced air through that shroud would clear out the steam. If you really want to get crazy, maybe put a miniature windshield wiper on the inside.
I'd say with warm water in a cold shop you're fighting physics wanting that not to fog up. I like all my saws but I don't think any of them are as nice as that one.
I think you're correct here. I was just hoping that it would make it a little bit better but you are likely right, too much of a temperature difference. Maybe me and my saw need to go to Florida!
bro just cut 2 potatoes in the middle and rub them all over inside that plastic cover ,( after you have clean it first ) , and you will be good to go .
It sounds counterintuitive but I replaced the cheap pulleys with a 1.5 inch blade and 3 inch motor, both are steel instead of aluminum. The blade speed is at least double and RUNS SMOOTHER plus CUTS MUCH FASTER.
This is not the good idea you think it is. Just about every lapidary blade has a max RPM rated and when you double the speed you also exceed that RPM rating. All might be fine and good until a blade comes apart.
@@CurrentlyRockhounding thank you for that sage advice. Having done more research I will reduce the rpm downward to less than 2290 based on a chart from MK
Did you enjoy this video and find it to be informative? You can help ensure that more videos just like this get made by supporting the project on Patreon. www.patreon.com/currentlyrockhounding
You are kinda the BASF of the rockhounding world. You did not make the Trim Saw you made the Trim Saw better. Great upload, very informative.
We just went to Ouray Colorado today for my wife's birthday and got to see a very very cool Rhodochrosite sample that was found in the area. Still waiting for spring at our home.... have surpassed 160" of snow for the season which makes rockhounding in the San Juan Mountains even more difficult LOL! Cheers!
That is a ton of snow to have melt off.
Put your diesel heater duct into the plastic hood on the saw and preheat it before you use it. It may be fogging because of the temperature difference and the hot vapor condensing on cold surfaces.
That's an interesting idea.
You are the best for us.
There are some red coloured waxes that can be polished on to the bathroom mirror
The color is only so you don’t miss areas as it polishes out clear
Don’t have a clue where to find it
But a good home improvement place
Looks like a crayon
Designed for wet warm humidity
When you need to see mirror
Thank you! I will look into that.
This is great stuff! I joke about OCD getting me so hung up on these little issues that it limits my production. You literally read my mind with this stuff.
I’m guessing the tricky part about that drain spigot would be to get the hole drilled as low as possible to drain as much water as possible. Very interesting upgrades 👍
I think the rain x will work better with cold water, the noise dampening mats did make a difference along with the link belt.
I guess I was really hoping that it would have worked with the warm water but it seems like the fog and mist from the saw is just too much.
We use shaving cream on our snorkle masks to prevent fogging. It doesn't take much. Works on bathroom mirrors also.
I will give that a try.
couple things you could try for the cover but they’re only temporary measures (but cheap!). rub some blue dawn dish soap on it until it’s nice and clear or use a hockey visor anti fog spray?
I will try exactly that, thank you for the tip.
Excellent video my compliments on your delivery. I'm looking to purchase the TS10 and will be putting it in the spare room in the house so I will defiantly need to borrow your good ideas
Thank you! I'm glad you found it to be useful.
Watching you mod your saw reminded me of "The A Team". 🎶 da ra da da, da da dah 🎶😁
I stopped just short of adding a gun turret to the top but I'm going to save that idea for the next saw.
I have an Lortone - Lux 6 I just replaced the bearings. It runs so amazingly smooth now. I have modified it to drain from the bottom not from the side. now it drains properly. Since I did that, I have had no cross contamination from water splash in the bottom of the water tray. The bearings were the same ones you used on your lap machine. They were the bearings with the permanet collar, I liked the colar set up better. I will use oil in the trim saw side. I have long since stopped useing Mineral oil and switched to Canola Oil. Canola oil is one of the only vegetable oils that has the proper acidic qualities to stick to the blade for lubrication. My opinion only no endorsements for oil.
One thing to consider is that you don't really want oil sticking to the blade. The main reason for the lightweight NF70 mineral oil is that it clear the cutting kerf and allow the blade to cool as it spins through the oil but it comes off leaving a clean blade on each revolution.
Have to done side by side cut comparisons using the different lucubration's?
An on-demand automotive washer pump and nozzle might work for eliminating fog and also that line of slurry that always builds up on transparent splash guards. It could be foot pedal operated so your hands stay on the stone to avoid a mishap. You do excellent work on upgrades to make your machines custom performers. Will Penny's comment about Rain-x fog is a smart and quick potential fix.
I like that idea, I think I'm going to work on this issue some and figure out a way to both run warm water as well as see what I'm doing.
Those link adjustable belts look awesome! Going to have to try it out. I’m working on minimizing vibration in my much smaller 2 wheel arbor. … btw, if you haven’t tried it yet, check out WD-40 white grease for your bearings. Magical!
Rub baby shampoo on inside of your clear plastic hood. Divers do same to prevent dive masks from fogging up.
I've used Lemon Pledge furniture polish on my motorcycle windshields for years. Water beads and rolls off. I run kerosene in my trimsaw, and don't have a clear shield, so have never tried it. Might work. Most of my machines are 70's H.P., and made of cast aluminum, or heavy steel, so never had much of a noise problem. The matting is a good idea if I ever have that problem.
I'll keep it in mind, thanks.
You're gonna have to install a windshield wiper LOL! That was a satisfying upgrade though. I'm not sure if there's a lot you can do using warm water in the cold it's going to steam up. Even with a hydrophobic surface I'm thinking it's going to be unavoidable, but I hope you are successful.
Ha! I kinda wanna do that just for the laughs.
I guess I was hoping that with the warm water I would be able to somehow getting it to still bead up and roll down but perhaps its not really going to work well.
Also, a polish like Koch Chemie P6 01 has a sealant in it that would provide a great protective and water beeding solution for your plastic cover. If you find the Rain X wears away quickly. However Rainx would be less expensive for sure.
I don't know about using warm water in the saw. It will always steam up and there isn't a whole lot you can do about it. But the other upgrades were fabulous. I'm a little disappointed in the rainx on your cover though. The rainx that's made for glass works so much better and they do make a product that stops eye glass lenses from fogging up, I don't remember the trade name but it's something to look into maybe. Because it's made for plastic lenses. I used to have some and it worked great, because my glasses used to fog up all the time going from indoors to outdoors and vice versa. Just a thought. It is a lot quieter now though. Great job!
I'm also a little disappointed in the Rain-X for the plastic, I guess I was hoping that it would work because if it did that would be so nice to able to run warm water and be able to see what I'm doing but it doesn't seem like there is a really good product for this application.
@@CurrentlyRockhounding I've never seen rainx fail so miserably before. It did absolutely nothing and that is unusual. I've used rainx one my windshield and on my mirrors and it works fabulous. I don't know if it is because it's plastic or not. Maybe use the glass product on the plastic? I don't think you should totally give up on the rainx yet because I know that it does work on glass.
Anytime you have sheet metal like that it's going to be tinny sounding, your deadening is a good solution. To help soften felt vibrations you could put a rubber pad between the motor and its mounting point, also the pillow blocks, a very thing piece of rubber wouldn't change location enough to matter, but that is a lot more work that might not make the difference worth it. Me personally I wouldn't use the cover at all! We have a very similar trim saw in my clubs workshop and it only has a splash guard between the user and the machine. We don't get water all over, there is some, it's not perfect. We are in a community center so the room we use is shared, we have to put everything away after every shop night and there isn't a lot of water to clean up! I do like the cover, wish it worked better. I like those linked belts, how good is the longevity? The direction of those points on the links makes total sense if you really think about it! You want them to lay down, Opposite direction I would think would cause it to want to lift the belt off the pulley! Thanks I like this type of video.
I like the idea of the thin rubber, I think could be a good solution as well that I might add. Thank you for that.
I have had one of these belts on my bigger saw for 3 or 4 years now and its just fine so I think they will last a very long time considering that they are generally slow speed and not used super often being that it is in a hobby lapidary shop.
I would try an infra-red heat lamp on your saw. fog/condensation happens when a warm vapor hits a cold surface, so having a light heat the plastic will keep the condensation (fog) off.
It's always fun watching the Mr. Gadget side of you. Hey 2 out of 3 worked.
Isn't there a product that stops mirrors and glasses from fogging up? Keep the mind working and the hands busy. Oh, by the way, nice cut on the geode. 😷⚒
That's a good questions I guess something that is for glasses would be safe for plastic. I will look into that some, thank you for the idea.
With respect to the fog up problem, try using a powered exhaust from the hood to draw room air into the hood.
Look into a Clear view screen, might be able to find a used one in a marine supply shop or online somewhere
Try shaving cream! We put that on our bathroom mirror so it doesn't fog up when taking a shower! Doesn't hurt to try! Thanks for sharing!
I will give that a try!
I have an older 10" trim saw that had no drain hole. I did the same thing as you and added a ball valve. I used PVC instead of brass for the tubing though. My plastic hood has been cracked many times. Can you tell me the dimensions of your hood? The Lortone website shows a replacement part #, but does not give the width X length dimensions. I would love to replace mine if it will fit. Great minds think alike! Thanks for showing this. I'll also be looking into sound dampening too.
I will take measurements and email them to you.
A small vacuum hose to help pull the water vapor away from the front of the glass.
interesting idea.
You could add a heat pad from the pet shop to the bottom of the water tank, it would dampen sound and heat the water so you could maintain temp in the saw it's self... cool ideas, thanks
for sharing!
Edit: I wonder if you added a small water pump with a little hose and route it so it sprays right at the spot you need to see through or trickles down the inside there, then it wouldnt be a mist or steam it would be a small amount of running water.... it would still cause a distortion but other than a little wiper not sure you have many options....
These are some neat idea and I think I might try something like this.
Rain x has an anti-fog version too.
Light layer of mineral oil applied with a clean soft cloth, maybe? Might be a tad blurry, but you might be able to cut some of the cloudiness from the foggy condensation. Just guessing here.
I will give that a try.
Nice work and excellent presentation. I’d like to build a diamond wire saw to cut large rounds of wood. Have you ever considered making one?
I don't really collect rocks big enough to justify a wire saw.
Maybe some forced air through that shroud would clear out the steam.
If you really want to get crazy, maybe put a miniature windshield wiper on the inside.
Ha! I really like the idea of a little wiper blade.
I like the valve
Thank you!
Very nice that is a amazing saw
Thank you very much.
I'd say with warm water in a cold shop you're fighting physics wanting that not to fog up. I like all my saws but I don't think any of them are as nice as that one.
I think you're correct here. I was just hoping that it would make it a little bit better but you are likely right, too much of a temperature difference. Maybe me and my saw need to go to Florida!
@@CurrentlyRockhounding you and your saw are welcome to drop by any time.
thanks for this video
Nice upgrades....
Thank you!
You might try fog-x made by rain ex
I will look into it! Thank you!
I'll buy that hood if it's steaming up too much, haha
You weren’t at old Chicago’s in Denver Colorado a couple days ago. were you? Saw a guy that looked just like you, but I didn’t want to bother.
That was not me but I would like to visit Denver some day.
@@CurrentlyRockhounding well, September is always a great time to visit. Gem and mineral show!!
bro just cut 2 potatoes in the middle and rub them all over inside that plastic cover ,( after you have clean it first ) , and you will be good to go .
Interesting, I will have to give that a try.
It sounds counterintuitive but I replaced the cheap pulleys with a 1.5 inch blade and 3 inch motor, both are steel instead of aluminum. The blade speed is at least double and RUNS SMOOTHER plus CUTS MUCH FASTER.
This is not the good idea you think it is. Just about every lapidary blade has a max RPM rated and when you double the speed you also exceed that RPM rating. All might be fine and good until a blade comes apart.
@@CurrentlyRockhounding thank you for that sage advice. Having done more research I will reduce the rpm downward to less than 2290 based on a chart from MK