Good morning Rikard. So glad you have your No 1 up and running. You had me worried there for a few minutes! The point of impact was so far off in the beginning it can cause problems in getting the gun zeroed but it looks like things worked out in the end. I have a video on how I mount my scopes wherein I have my point of impact very close to where I want it before I ever start using the internal adjustments on the scope. I want to keep the internals centered as much as possible. As fas as my method of shooting from the bench Is concerned, it helps greatly if your shooting rest is completely adjustable, right down to the finest degree. My video on DIY rifle rest pretty much explains it all. I have many different rest of course, including the one you are using. A pretty good set up certainly, but it almost necessitates you having your hand on the fore end. Your hands make those tiny little adjustments in aiming, that are necessary in order to hit your target. By using the hands off approach your rest has to be totally adjustable. It simply eliminates a bit of human error. But once I am satisfied with both my load and zero , I eliminate the rear rest, and place my hand under the fore end just like you are doing. That is more in line with actual field conditions. But the zero should not change at all. Generally the group size will open up a bit , but that is all. A fully adjustable rest system combined with a hands off the fore end will give you your best accuracy. But the rest has to be FULLY adjustable. The No 1 can be a bit tricky to work with, primarily because of the take down screw in the fore end. The pressure from the screw can cause all sorts of problems in both the point of impact and the size of your groups. Just tightening and loosening that screw a small amount can often make a huge difference in the way the rifle shoots. I always free float the fore ends on all No 1’s. That is the only way I have been able to get my best and consistent performance out of my No 1’s. Most of the time only a small difference in screw tightness will definitely change both your accuracy and the point of impact. A simple test is to Mark the position of screw, so you can return back to where you are, then loosen and tighten it a turn or so and fire test groups. I think you will find it makes a difference. I even remove the fore end completely and fire a few shot groups. If the accuracy improves, then I know it needs to be free floated. I personally have never met a No 1 that did not benefit from having its barrel free floated. Elmer Keith was quite the character to say the least!! The shooting public owes that old bird a lot. He had a big influence on me for certain. If possible, he was more opinionated than I am!!!!! And that is saying something. A curious thing about Elmer was every time he made a bad shot on game, he went to a bigger bullet or caliber.!!! By the end of his life he used a .458 Win to shoot field mice with! He was an American treasure. Loved your video. Keep them coming. I Just posted a video on one of my custom Ruger No 3’s. You might find it interesting. I am in complete agreement with you on your choice of bullet weight. For close to medium distances you are spot on. I use the 160 Accubonds only because I have many opportunities at longer ranges. Great to see you my friend. Dennis
Thanks for your lengthy reply Dennis (where do you find the time? 😳). I will definitely experiment with the forearm screw and also consider free-floating. Thanks for great input 🙂
Congratulations on the gorgeous Ruger #1 setup. The wood grained stock looks fantastic and the classic Leupold gloss scope is a fitting touch. What you say about recoil is absolutely correct. My 300 Win Mag flinch really messed me up for several months. It even impacted shooting lighter recoiling rifles. My flinch is gone and so is the 300 Win Mag! Thank you for the great content.
I had a Winchester featherweight 7x57 years back and without giving it much thought I sold it...I have regretting it ever since. What a beautiful unbeatable cartridge.
I have a couple 7x57 rifles. Since your handloads are so slow if you will sight the rifle in at close range, about 22 yards with that slow of ammo, shooting a bullseye at that distance will put you somewhere around a couple inches high at 100 yards. It's much easier to get sighted in without burning all your ammo. With a Ruger #1 you can load pretty hot without damage. The books usually give somewhat low powder levels for the 7x57 because of the many rifles out there that might not be in that good of condition. I load my loads hotter than my books state but only by a small amount and am very careful. My newest rifle is stamped .275 Rigby and my average velocity with a 154 grain bullet is 2758 fps from a 24 inch barrel. I am very fond of the 7x57 and would never get rid of it. Enjoy your #1. I have one but in a 35 Whelen.
You may want to look at Warne detachable scope mounts. They add little to the overall weight and are specifically designed for the Ruger receiver dovetail. With a couple of turns of the levers the No. 1 is instantly returned to it's handy off-hand shooting mode.
You are a man after my own heart. Not only do i love the 6.5x55 with the heavy bullets as I saw in your other video, i am a big fan of the Ruger #1 and ha e been looking for one in 7x57/275 Rigby for awhile. Ruger has stopped doing their yearly releases of #1s e er since Covid
beautiful rifle in a fantastic caliber. I have the Ruger M77 with the tang safety in 7x57 and with the Federal 175gr RN groups bout the same as yours. Wonderful caliber for whitetails and hogs.
You sure seem to be struggling with getting your rifle sighted in. Boresight through the bore, fire one, dial the crosshairs to the bullet hole, fire a group, fine tune the crosshairs to the center of the group. It really is that easy and saves ya money to boot.
From my limited experience and things I've read, when shooting off rests the No.1's shoots tighter groups if the support is closer to the receiver. Since I don't shoot off-hand much and I'm not very accurate in that mode I don't have any input in that area. I've learned to consider them hunting rifles and I get my best results from 'cold' barrels. 'Cold' being a relative term. Here in Texas that can be 100° F.
Thanks for your comment 🙂 I do believe that this phenomenon is alleviated somewhat by holding the forearm in the hand like I do and not letting it rest directly on the support. But my experience from shooting No 1’s off the bench is not very vast so I will not argue with you on this 😀 I lived in Texas for 3 months way back in 2000. Spent October-December in Richardson (Dallas). Great state! 😀
I had to realize that No. 1's were never going to be as accurate as a mediocre bolt action (Remington 700, Winchester 70, Ruger 77). But when you realize the No. 1 is a hunting rifle and shoot it appropriately then it becomes even more special. If you have the opportunity to "shoot like you hunt" and that's off-hand (like a Man) I envy you. Here we feed deer and shoot them from a blind. Notice I don't call that 'hunting.' But the other side of the coin is we have too many deer. I'm part of the problem, nearly 70, I've only killed three, the first one was with a truck at 55 mph. I'm just a fan of the gun. Few 'hunters' I know are willing to stake their hunt on just one shot.@@NordicRifleman
@@philipdepalma4672 I can’t speak for all single shot rifles and there are plenty of people that will swear they’re Ruger No. 1 will shoot just as or more accurately than, say, a Remington 700. I think the two-piece stock may be one factor. I’ve read that the forend hanger can also affect accuracy. With a little searching you can find tips for accurizing the No. 1. There’s even a “Hicks Accurizer” designed exclusively for the No. 1. I have one but haven’t worked with it a lot. It adds another variable while I’m still trying to find a good load. Don’t get me wrong, I’m a big No. 1 fan. They are on the top end of my firearm budget. What I want people to be aware of is if they make the financial leap that won’t necessarily buy them bug-hole groups.
I've had 3 Leopold scopes. All were or are lower priced. None of them tracked accurately at all. Friction, not clicks. One was a 4-12, rhat would actually change some windage when adjusting elevation. I have a friend with several and he never complains so maybe it's me.
Hello, nice video on a beautiful rifle. What scope mounts and rings do you use or recommend? I've recently picked up a 1976 Ruger No. 1 with nothing but the original bases. Thanks for any and all help.
The Ruger #1 doesn't' come alive with good accuracy until hand-loads are used. Use a full length sized case with a powder that occupies 97% of the case, that gives a velocity close to the average cartridge FPS, then seat the bullet to touch the barrel rifling. This will at least cut the factory ammo groups in half.
@@NordicRifleman This person has a Ruger #1V, 22-250 manufactured in 1982. Extraordinary accuracy. On my best days 5 shots in a 1/8" grouping with the best handload, or better, from the bench, are common. The most accurate handload uses 40 grains of Win. 760 powder that takes up 97% of the case volume. Hornady Spire Point non-cannelure-bullet seated to touch the rifling. for 3670 FPS. No sign of excessive pressure. The case is Federal with a Federal 210 primer. The barrel? Factory. It's suppose to be a Wilson barrel. Factory ammo? With factory Remington Core-Lokt 55 grains it will print 5 rounds at 5/16". Don't worry about harming the Ruger #1 as have loaded up loads to maximum looking for accuracy characteristics where at max. pressures the case will show some resistance on extraction. At this point back off 1.5 to 3 grains for best accuracy.
Oh! Well that makes sense considering the variety on the channel. I made the mistake of associating Nordic with Norway when in reality Norway is only a small part of Nordic lineage. 😂
My favorite cartridge! The grandfather of them all. If you use American amunnition you dont get the best of this cartridge, because they sabotage this cartridge registring by the Americans SAAMI at 35.000 psi ridicolous
Good morning Rikard. So glad you have your No 1 up and running. You had me worried there for a few minutes! The point of impact was so far off in the beginning it can cause problems in getting the gun zeroed but it looks like things worked out in the end. I have a video on how I mount my scopes wherein I have my point of impact very close to where I want it before I ever start using the internal adjustments on the scope. I want to keep the internals centered as much as possible.
As fas as my method of shooting from the bench Is concerned, it helps greatly if your shooting rest is completely adjustable, right down to the finest degree. My video on DIY rifle rest pretty much explains it all. I have many different rest of course, including the one you are using. A pretty good set up certainly, but it almost necessitates you having your hand on the fore end. Your hands make those tiny little adjustments in aiming, that are necessary in order to hit your target. By using the hands off approach your rest has to be totally adjustable. It simply eliminates a bit of human error.
But once I am satisfied with both my load and zero , I eliminate the rear rest, and place my hand under the fore end just like you are doing. That is more in line with actual field conditions. But the zero should not change at all. Generally the group size will open up a bit , but that is all. A fully adjustable rest system combined with a hands off the fore end will give you your best accuracy. But the rest has to be FULLY adjustable.
The No 1 can be a bit tricky to work with, primarily because of the take down screw in the fore end. The pressure from the screw can cause all sorts of problems in both the point of impact and the size of your groups. Just tightening and loosening that screw a small amount can often make a huge difference in the way the rifle shoots. I always free float the fore ends on all
No 1’s. That is the only way I have been able to get my best and consistent performance out of my No 1’s. Most of the time only a small difference in screw tightness will definitely change both your accuracy and the point of impact.
A simple test is to
Mark the position of screw, so you can return back to where you are, then loosen and tighten it a turn or so and fire test groups. I think you will find it makes a difference. I even remove the fore end completely and fire a few shot groups. If the accuracy improves, then I know it needs to be free floated. I personally have never met a No 1 that did not benefit from having its barrel free floated.
Elmer Keith was quite the character to say the least!! The shooting public owes that old bird a lot. He had a big influence on me for certain. If possible, he was more opinionated than I am!!!!! And that is saying something. A curious thing about Elmer was every time he made a bad shot on game, he went to a bigger bullet or caliber.!!! By the end of his life he used a .458 Win to shoot field mice with! He was an American treasure.
Loved your video. Keep them coming.
I
Just posted a video on one of my custom Ruger No 3’s. You might find it interesting.
I am in complete agreement with you on your choice of bullet weight. For close to medium distances you are spot on. I use the 160 Accubonds only because I have many opportunities at longer ranges.
Great to see you my friend.
Dennis
Thanks for your lengthy reply Dennis (where do you find the time? 😳). I will definitely experiment with the forearm screw and also consider free-floating. Thanks for great input 🙂
Keep me informed as you experiment with your No 1. Especially with the screw tension . Again , love your videos.
@@dennispritchardoutdoors7882 Thanks for being a huge positive inspiration Dennis!
Congratulations on the gorgeous Ruger #1 setup. The wood grained stock looks fantastic and the classic Leupold gloss scope is a fitting touch. What you say about recoil is absolutely correct. My 300 Win Mag flinch really messed me up for several months. It even impacted shooting lighter recoiling rifles. My flinch is gone and so is the 300 Win Mag! Thank you for the great content.
Thank you for your comment 😀
I had a Winchester featherweight 7x57 years back and without giving it much thought I sold it...I have regretting it ever since. What a beautiful unbeatable cartridge.
I get it as I have myself sold too many gems thru the years 🥺🤦🏼♂️
I have a couple 7x57 rifles. Since your handloads are so slow if you will sight the rifle in at close range, about 22 yards with that slow of ammo, shooting a bullseye at that distance will put you somewhere around a couple inches high at 100 yards. It's much easier to get sighted in without burning all your ammo. With a Ruger #1 you can load pretty hot without damage. The books usually give somewhat low powder levels for the 7x57 because of the many rifles out there that might not be in that good of condition. I load my loads hotter than my books state but only by a small amount and am very careful. My newest rifle is stamped .275 Rigby and my average velocity with a 154 grain bullet is 2758 fps from a 24 inch barrel. I am very fond of the 7x57 and would never get rid of it. Enjoy your #1. I have one but in a 35 Whelen.
You may want to look at Warne detachable scope mounts. They add little to the overall weight and are specifically designed for the Ruger receiver dovetail. With a couple of turns of the levers the No. 1 is instantly returned to it's handy off-hand shooting mode.
You are a man after my own heart. Not only do i love the 6.5x55 with the heavy bullets as I saw in your other video, i am a big fan of the Ruger #1 and ha e been looking for one in 7x57/275 Rigby for awhile. Ruger has stopped doing their yearly releases of #1s e er since Covid
Nice - great minds think alike 😉 The Ruger No 1's are very nice and cool rifles for sure.
Now this is sweet. Seems like a very good cartridge for the Ruger #1.
beautiful rifle in a fantastic caliber. I have the Ruger M77 with the tang safety in 7x57 and with the Federal 175gr RN groups bout the same as yours. Wonderful caliber for whitetails and hogs.
Another great video on a classic rifle chambered for a classic cartridge. Well done!! 🙂👏👍
Thank you for your kind words 🙏🏻
Very nice - 7x57 Mauser is one of my favourite rounds. You just earned a new viewer!
Nice to hear. Thank you 🙂
You sure seem to be struggling with getting your rifle sighted in. Boresight through the bore, fire one, dial the crosshairs to the bullet hole, fire a group, fine tune the crosshairs to the center of the group. It really is that easy and saves ya money to boot.
That's basically how I do it 😉 But since the rifle is not fixed in a vice, it is impossible to move the crosshairs without moving the rifle.
I have the same scope on top of a browning A-bolt .308 very nice setup
From my limited experience and things I've read, when shooting off rests the No.1's shoots tighter groups if the support is closer to the receiver. Since I don't shoot off-hand much and I'm not very accurate in that mode I don't have any input in that area. I've learned to consider them hunting rifles and I get my best results from 'cold' barrels. 'Cold' being a relative term. Here in Texas that can be 100° F.
Thanks for your comment 🙂 I do believe that this phenomenon is alleviated somewhat by holding the forearm in the hand like I do and not letting it rest directly on the support. But my experience from shooting No 1’s off the bench is not very vast so I will not argue with you on this 😀
I lived in Texas for 3 months way back in 2000. Spent October-December in Richardson (Dallas). Great state! 😀
I had to realize that No. 1's were never going to be as accurate as a mediocre bolt action (Remington 700, Winchester 70, Ruger 77). But when you realize the No. 1 is a hunting rifle and shoot it appropriately then it becomes even more special. If you have the opportunity to "shoot like you hunt" and that's off-hand (like a Man) I envy you. Here we feed deer and shoot them from a blind. Notice I don't call that 'hunting.' But the other side of the coin is we have too many deer. I'm part of the problem, nearly 70, I've only killed three, the first one was with a truck at 55 mph. I'm just a fan of the gun. Few 'hunters' I know are willing to stake their hunt on just one shot.@@NordicRifleman
@@JohnSmith-dh4gw Agree. This kind of rifle is all about feelings and not so much about performance (I.e. tack driving).
@@JohnSmith-dh4gwwhy would a single shot rifle be inherently less accurate than a bolt action?
@@philipdepalma4672 I can’t speak for all single shot rifles and there are plenty of people that will swear they’re Ruger No. 1 will shoot just as or more accurately than, say, a Remington 700. I think the two-piece stock may be one factor. I’ve read that the forend hanger can also affect accuracy. With a little searching you can find tips for accurizing the No. 1. There’s even a “Hicks Accurizer” designed exclusively for the No. 1. I have one but haven’t worked with it a lot. It adds another variable while I’m still trying to find a good load. Don’t get me wrong, I’m a big No. 1 fan. They are on the top end of my firearm budget. What I want people to be aware of is if they make the financial leap that won’t necessarily buy them bug-hole groups.
I've had 3 Leopold scopes. All were or are lower priced. None of them tracked accurately at all. Friction, not clicks. One was a 4-12, rhat would actually change some windage when adjusting elevation. I have a friend with several and he never complains so maybe it's me.
Hello, nice video on a beautiful rifle. What scope mounts and rings do you use or recommend? I've recently picked up a 1976 Ruger No. 1 with nothing but the original bases. Thanks for any and all help.
Hi. I don’t have any recommendation other than using original Ruger rings.
Very cool to see! Love falling block rifles
Easier to sight and shoot in at 25m and then move to 100y/100m
Working up a load for my own No 1 in 7mm. What did you settle with for your own loads?
Didn’t try anything more with that rifle.
The Ruger #1 doesn't' come alive with good accuracy until hand-loads are used.
Use a full length sized case with a powder that occupies 97% of the case, that gives a velocity close to the average cartridge FPS, then seat the bullet to touch the barrel rifling.
This will at least cut the factory ammo groups in half.
Sure. Had no time to play around with it though. These are handloads by the way.
@@NordicRifleman This person has a Ruger #1V, 22-250 manufactured in 1982. Extraordinary accuracy. On my best days 5 shots in a 1/8" grouping with the best handload, or better, from the bench, are common. The most accurate handload uses 40 grains of Win. 760 powder that takes up 97% of the case volume. Hornady Spire Point non-cannelure-bullet seated to touch the rifling. for 3670 FPS. No sign of excessive pressure. The case is Federal with a Federal 210 primer. The barrel? Factory. It's suppose to be a Wilson barrel. Factory ammo? With factory Remington Core-Lokt 55 grains it will print 5 rounds at 5/16". Don't worry about harming the Ruger #1 as have loaded up loads to maximum looking for accuracy characteristics where at max. pressures the case will show some resistance on extraction. At this point back off 1.5 to 3 grains for best accuracy.
I’m looking for 7 mauser
Do many Norwegians hunt with a krag jorgensson?
Don’t know actually. I’m Swedish 😁
Oh! Well that makes sense considering the variety on the channel. I made the mistake of associating Nordic with Norway when in reality Norway is only a small part of Nordic lineage. 😂
Heisann, hvor skaffet du en ruger no 1 i 7x57? Er d3t en eldre årgang? Misunnelig på den!
Hei. Denna är begagnad och tillverkad 1998 🙂
My favorite cartridge! The grandfather of them all. If you use American amunnition you dont get the best of this cartridge, because they sabotage this cartridge registring by the Americans SAAMI at 35.000 psi ridicolous