Actually when I bought this it had the M/v2 firmware on it. I spent about three hours trying to get it to spin the motors, then read somewhere that after a certain firmware version the motors are disabled if the serial number is not that of a 'real' M unit. So I tried reverting to the lite firmware, motors spin just fine. Next I flashed the v2 firmware again but with the slightly older firmware, before DJI added the motor crippling (v4.02 I think?). But still the motors would not spin. So I just used the standard lite firmware.
iforce2d yeah there are to many clones out there for me to be even considering one of these. I tend to try and stick with pixhawk or Apm/preferably from HEX
2:22 You need to point the GPS antenna forward with your location declination in mind. My Naza Lite Quads/Hexs would "toilet bowl" until I skewed the GPS antenna to my declination. 3:29 Is that you on the controls or your Naza Lite jerking the hex around like that??? I have 4 Multi Rotors with DJI Lites on them and they fly great. I've only had one quad that exhibited weird control like yours and it was a used one I bought off eBay.. It was damaged in a crash I think and that was why it was on eBay. Junked it.
xjet if you like freestyling a brick lol . Having said that I'm about to build an apm 2.8 and might as well contact local historians and ancient history majors to figure out some of the finer details of how it works . Did i mention its old ?
You should increase your motor idle speed. That is why at around 26:00 it sorta spazzed out. One of the motors had not spooled up till you increased throttle.
Hi, I was wondering if you can help me finish setup my drone, it's doesn't arm. Due to stressful events, I parked it for years. Thanks God I am getting better. I need someone to help me, I've been asking but little luck. I'll gladly pay, all I need for you to setup the radio and drone.
If you're asking about the Naza flight controller in this video, I'm afraid I can't remember anything about it, and I sold it last year. This FC is pretty much ancient history at this point, you will find much more information and assistance with something newer. For a GPS capable build like this one I would recommend Ardupilot.
Hellllllllloooooooo...try if its not to late teehee ppm = sbus and update your fw dji to latest with the software avalable this should now fix all your issuses :) HAPPY XMASS! + Happy new year for 2020
As some others have suggested, upgrading or downgrading the firmware might fix some of the problems. I just got a Ftanom 4 and am hearing once in a while they release a dud version of the firmware.
changed the battery location to account for center of gravity and reduce toilet bowling. trimmed roll and elevator in attitude mode . now it's stable. one motor would stop running so i'm watching. next build i'm using the apm 2.8 or the naza v which cost more. my naza lite was cheap. thought there was little adjustment but not so. no more naza lite.
@iforce2d Hi. You can increase attitude gains, so that the drone will react faster and gain (stay at the same) attitude when you move forward. IOC (intelligent orientation control) is kinda like a advance "headless" mode. About failsafe... You should regain control if you switch to manual or attitude mode (not in gps mode). Maybe you have a problem with a barometric sensor in Naza and that's why the drone is bouncing? If you open the fc, there should be some kind of sponge inside. Oh, don't push throttle stick under 10% for more than a 3s when you're in the air (descending?), because motors will stop (it depends on motor settings (idle speed, cut off)). The best part is that you can "upgrade" your Naza M lite to Naza M V2 (the hardware is identical!) with the software and you will get better flying characteristics (no drift to the right on take off), stable and faster gps fix and few other things (like option to use osd, Bluetooth, etc if you replace you Naza power unit for the one from Naza m v2 (can bus))...
you have major conflict in the setup. your GPS is facing one direction where your control module is facing the complete opposite. there are markers arrows on the unit ummm!???
ummm!??? If that was true it would never do position hold or RTH at all. The GPS unit is offset by about 20 degrees from the flight controller to account for the magnetic declination here, as I explained in the first few minutes of the video, and I also demonstrated (7:15) what happens when it's not aligned correctly.
I realize this is a few years old now, but you have managed to answer my question as to weather or not I use it at all, I have the naza m v2(upgraded manually), I've found flying my fly woo has a similar issue in NZ, takes ages to get sat numbers or it looses where home is. so after this video ill look more into the declination for where I am and configure a holybro(iNav) with a nice compass and mag. thank you for your help all these years later. as an after thought it could be vibration that caused that issue or the aluminum arms causing issues with the compass, I've seen these things just all off a sudden turn and burn but the compass was really close to a motor...
I found out it' was due to unbalanced propeller, cheap plastic props that comes with kits are crap,even my naza v2 went flying off in an angle,I put on balanced carbon fiber propellers it Flys like a dream
stick a peice od sponge over the barometer will fix the dropping height. By stopping wind blowing across the hole in barometer changing the air pressure and what it thinks its height is at
Practically zero wind can get at the baro inside the plastic case. There is a bunch of foam inside which I would assume covers the baro, and there is a light shield to protect it from sunlight which can also affect barometer readings. www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2031503-Different-Naza-Hardware-Versions
It seems intentional because the three motors of one direction almost always start simultaneously, then with a little more throttle the other three start simultaneously too. When looking at the config app the values shown for the gyro are often not quite zero, might have something to do with it.
Actually when I bought this it had the M/v2 firmware on it. I spent about three hours trying to get it to spin the motors, then read somewhere that after a certain firmware version the motors are disabled if the serial number is not that of a 'real' M unit. So I tried reverting to the lite firmware, motors spin just fine. Next I flashed the v2 firmware again but with the slightly older firmware, before DJI added the motor crippling (v4.02 I think?). But still the motors would not spin. So I just used the standard lite firmware.
Actually when I bought this it had the M/v2 firmware on it. I spent about three hours trying to get it to spin the motors, then read somewhere that after a certain firmware version the motors are disabled if the serial number is not that of a 'real' M unit. So I tried reverting to the lite firmware, motors spin just fine. Next I flashed the v2 firmware again but with the slightly older firmware, before DJI added the motor crippling (v4.02 I think?). But still the motors would not spin. So I just used the standard lite firmware.
iforce2d yeah there are to many clones out there for me to be even considering one of these. I tend to try and stick with pixhawk or Apm/preferably from HEX
2:22 You need to point the GPS antenna forward with your location declination in mind.
My Naza Lite Quads/Hexs would "toilet bowl" until I skewed the GPS antenna to my declination.
3:29 Is that you on the controls or your Naza Lite jerking the hex around like that???
I have 4 Multi Rotors with DJI Lites on them and they fly great. I've only had one quad that exhibited weird control like yours and it was a used one I bought off eBay.. It was damaged in a crash I think and that was why it was on eBay. Junked it.
There could be a lot of vibrations causing this.
HEY you Are so fanny , always make me laugh.:)))
Do some stuff!!! Flips, rolls, freestyle it man!
xjet if you like freestyling a brick lol . Having said that I'm about to build an apm 2.8 and might as well contact local historians and ancient history majors to figure out some of the finer details of how it works . Did i mention its old ?
You should increase your motor idle speed. That is why at around 26:00 it sorta spazzed out. One of the motors had not spooled up till you increased throttle.
Hi, I was wondering if you can help me finish setup my drone, it's doesn't arm.
Due to stressful events, I parked it for years. Thanks God I am getting better. I need someone to help me, I've been asking but little luck.
I'll gladly pay, all I need for you to setup the radio and drone.
If you're asking about the Naza flight controller in this video, I'm afraid I can't remember anything about it, and I sold it last year. This FC is pretty much ancient history at this point, you will find much more information and assistance with something newer. For a GPS capable build like this one I would recommend Ardupilot.
@@iforce2d thanks
Hellllllllloooooooo...try if its not to late teehee ppm = sbus and update your fw dji to latest with the software avalable this should now fix all your issuses :) HAPPY XMASS! + Happy new year for 2020
You can hack the lite version and have a full Naza M. Ardupilot stores declination as a parameter I think.
Glad I never got into dji NAZA stuff.
No Todo el Mundo Sabe Tu Idioma
As some others have suggested, upgrading or downgrading the firmware might fix some of the problems. I just got a Ftanom 4 and am hearing once in a while they release a dud version of the firmware.
Looks like you tried to set it up based on what you think rather than how it should be set up....flying on desperately low batteries is rediculous
changed the battery location to account for center of gravity and reduce toilet bowling. trimmed roll and elevator in attitude mode . now it's stable. one motor would stop running so i'm watching. next build i'm using the apm 2.8 or the naza v which cost more. my naza lite was cheap. thought there was little adjustment but not so. no more naza lite.
I have the same set-up on a hex that I bought but haven't flown yet, so thanks for the warning.
I bought a naza lite to try out compared to pixhawk, have a feeling i will come to same conclusion. Can't beat pixhawk.
vibrations....? .5 mm tube could be resonating unwanted peculiarities. Maybe swap out arms to pine dowels
Got to put a cap on the plastic flight controller with shielding on the bottom and all sides and top.helps the barometer to be stable.
@iforce2d Hi. You can increase attitude gains, so that the drone will react faster and gain (stay at the same) attitude when you move forward. IOC (intelligent orientation control) is kinda like a advance "headless" mode. About failsafe... You should regain control if you switch to manual or attitude mode (not in gps mode). Maybe you have a problem with a barometric sensor in Naza and that's why the drone is bouncing? If you open the fc, there should be some kind of sponge inside.
Oh, don't push throttle stick under 10% for more than a 3s when you're in the air (descending?), because motors will stop (it depends on motor settings (idle speed, cut off)).
The best part is that you can "upgrade" your Naza M lite to Naza M V2 (the hardware is identical!) with the software and you will get better flying characteristics (no drift to the right on take off), stable and faster gps fix and few other things (like option to use osd, Bluetooth, etc if you replace you Naza power unit for the one from Naza m v2 (can bus))...
You can upgrade the firmware to the Naza-M V2 and the FC gets much better
you have major conflict in the setup. your GPS is facing one direction where your control module is facing the complete opposite. there are markers arrows on the unit ummm!???
ummm!??? If that was true it would never do position hold or RTH at all. The GPS unit is offset by about 20 degrees from the flight controller to account for the magnetic declination here, as I explained in the first few minutes of the video, and I also demonstrated (7:15) what happens when it's not aligned correctly.
I realize this is a few years old now, but you have managed to answer my question as to weather or not I use it at all, I have the naza m v2(upgraded manually), I've found flying my fly woo has a similar issue in NZ, takes ages to get sat numbers or it looses where home is. so after this video ill look more into the declination for where I am and configure a holybro(iNav) with a nice compass and mag. thank you for your help all these years later. as an after thought it could be vibration that caused that issue or the aluminum arms causing issues with the compass, I've seen these things just all off a sudden turn and burn but the compass was really close to a motor...
I found out it' was due to unbalanced propeller, cheap plastic props that comes with kits are crap,even my naza v2 went flying off in an angle,I put on balanced carbon fiber propellers it Flys like a dream
Did you configure the battery voltage?
stick a peice od sponge over the barometer will fix the dropping height. By stopping wind blowing across the hole in barometer changing the air pressure and what it thinks its height is at
Practically zero wind can get at the baro inside the plastic case. There is a bunch of foam inside which I would assume covers the baro, and there is a light shield to protect it from sunlight which can also affect barometer readings.
www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2031503-Different-Naza-Hardware-Versions
Looks like a tricky beast .. Cool flying skills .
your gps lokasion numbers are rong
Don’t trust those battery beepy things.
Did you calibrate the ESC's. There seems to be a quite large range of starting points for the various motors.
It seems intentional because the three motors of one direction almost always start simultaneously, then with a little more throttle the other three start simultaneously too. When looking at the config app the values shown for the gyro are often not quite zero, might have something to do with it.
It’s got a decent Barometer
ohhh yeahh this boiling is huge
Definitely to the naza M firmware as mentioned below as it will do wonders for your Quad
Actually when I bought this it had the M/v2 firmware on it. I spent about three hours trying to get it to spin the motors, then read somewhere that after a certain firmware version the motors are disabled if the serial number is not that of a 'real' M unit. So I tried reverting to the lite firmware, motors spin just fine. Next I flashed the v2 firmware again but with the slightly older firmware, before DJI added the motor crippling (v4.02 I think?). But still the motors would not spin. So I just used the standard lite firmware.
Many folks don't bother with the Lite FW, just go to Naza-M V2.
TheGusK Exactly the same exept the firmware.
Sir!!! When I calibrate the compass, the red light is blinking in the last, just tell me a solution please sir.
No idea sorry, I don't use these flight controllers before or since this video.
@@iforce2d no problem sir!!! Thanks for replying 😊
You should try it with that plastic top over it so there's no wind in barometer
Isn't the barometer covered In the dji case?
our grand grand children will see this as skynet's ancestors