Sometimes after a remodel they will add a cabinet sink with a base cabinet higher than the original, making the drain line super low, taking up storage space. Otherwise it's on the plumber for not raising the wall drain line
Nice method. Pipe and fittings are tempered differently. The pipe is malleable so it succumbs to heat. It's also super toxic and poisonous if heated improperly. A torch for example will create poison fumes if heated directly.
Life hacks aside, fitting savers are a huge time saver. That bit he showed is worth having in multiple sizes. These scenarios are rare, but a pain in the ASS without those bits no matter what.
I want to let you know this has been used by service plumbers for decades now. We typically put a couple slits with a reciprocating saw and then use a torch to heat it up and then roll it out with needle nose plyers. This was before hub savers were a thing. Now we use hub savers.
Never seen this method before, I have always used an open flame 🔥. This worked so great I’m excited it to try it the next time I have to redo a fitting. Thanks for the cool video😁
I use the heat gun directly on the pipe. Just keep moving round and round. Sometimes you get the fitting soft too, but you can put a short piece of pipe into it while still flexible and straighten it out
If you just connected it back you still have an s trap and that will siphon that trap especially with 2”. I like the hole saw method best because it doesn’t blacken the pipe but I put torches to them all the time with no issue. I’ve even done downtown around high rises. In areas with tall building all those plugs of water falling multiple floors makes the sewer gas at street level blow out of the pipe rather than waft. Still no issue. There’s not enough concentrated methane to ignite like that. Even if it did light it would more like a lighter than a torch.
Can heat a screw driver up aswell and carefully sear through the rest of the plastic you want out makin sure to not damage the hub and then pry and pop that peace out with a cool screwdriver and or some needle nose. Prime and glue it good
Could reach the same outcome without the holesaw, both the elbow and insert were soffend up in that video, need another bit of pipe to put back in while it cools so it stays round and seals, or use a hacksaw blade cut through the insert and split it out with a flat head
@gd6467 absolutely 💯 this is against code and trash 🗑 try explaining this to non-plumber, DIY, know it all youtube cowboys tho lol they will not get it ever... you can explain it 10 different ways and they will still argue. 🙂
@@gd6467the length of the horizontal waist arm only needs to be 2 and 1/2 times the diameter of the pipe to break the siphon. If he put a trap adapter directly in that fitting he would be fine.
Plenty of room to take out the 90 coming from out of the wall run straight pipe to your p trap.. this setup is going to be extremely difficult to snake if needed
To removed comment: "How could you possibly know there's no vent, you just want to sound smart" I'm a dumbass but this is year 1 stuff, you lose your vent when you turn more than 45° or get higher than the weir. Come to think of it maybe you're the dumbass.
You can also cut thru the pipe and use a flat head screw driver and force it between the glue joint and piece of pipe and pry it out but that is still an illegal s trap it needs to be cut out and a ptrap installed
This has absolutely no vent, so it's not "working perfectly" to be fair lol. It's an S-trap. Why even have the 90s on there? Just use a slip tail piece off of the popup, it's easier and cheaper lol
Trap arm cannot have 90s like that. From the p-trap to the Santee must be no more no less than 1/4 of an inch per foot of slope. You have there an es trap
I don't understand why they 90 up out of the wall when they could have just came straight out and put the p-trap with an extension tube
because he his not a plumber and he probally have doing this herself
Sometimes after a remodel they will add a cabinet sink with a base cabinet higher than the original, making the drain line super low, taking up storage space. Otherwise it's on the plumber for not raising the wall drain line
You're right, the plumbing in the video is against code and garbage 🗑
Probably because the drain is too low
Looks like there is plenty of room for a trap if the two 90's are removed @drewbarton1100
As a plumber i dont carry a heat gun on the truck. Additionally If you like smelly pipes youd do it like that and leave the two 90s
You don't have a torch on your van? You must Pro Press huh
Nice method. Pipe and fittings are tempered differently. The pipe is malleable so it succumbs to heat. It's also super toxic and poisonous if heated improperly. A torch for example will create poison fumes if heated directly.
Life hacks aside, fitting savers are a huge time saver. That bit he showed is worth having in multiple sizes. These scenarios are rare, but a pain in the ASS without those bits no matter what.
just had one completely save my ass in a cramped floor cavity with no room to access more of the pipe
Make sure your Drill is straight when using those bits because you can mess up the hub if you dont
That's a great trick and as a side note that drain is completely against code
Technically an s trap
I want to let you know this has been used by service plumbers for decades now. We typically put a couple slits with a reciprocating saw and then use a torch to heat it up and then roll it out with needle nose plyers. This was before hub savers were a thing. Now we use hub savers.
Never seen this method before, I have always used an open flame 🔥. This worked so great I’m excited it to try it the next time I have to redo a fitting. Thanks for the cool video😁
I remember when the work hack meant you were bad at something but convinced people enough to get the work.
I use the heat gun directly on the pipe. Just keep moving round and round. Sometimes you get the fitting soft too, but you can put a short piece of pipe into it while still flexible and straighten it out
Well done!
That is a very resourceful and very convenient way 🎉
I’m glad that I’m subscribed
I ws taught to use a sawblade and cut through pipe and hit it out with a acrewdriver and a hammer
Hmm what should I buy a heat gun or a pipe bit 🤔
Switch it out for double wye if you have double sided sink that share same trap. And then you have cleanout point too
I like it! They call it yankee ingenuity! Use what you have and make it work! 👍🏻
I’m a plumber Almost 20 years in and I say it’s a hell of a idea
This is handy and i will definitely try this if i ever dont have a ram bit with me
I should’ve probably just picked up the proper bit but wanted to try this method 🤷🏼♂️
Nice 👍
Nice
Nice job.😮
Good work on the S Trap coming out of the Wall!
If you have a reinstatement tool for 2” ABS it’ll also work for 2” PVC.
If you just connected it back you still have an s trap and that will siphon that trap especially with 2”.
I like the hole saw method best because it doesn’t blacken the pipe but I put torches to them all the time with no issue. I’ve even done downtown around high rises. In areas with tall building all those plugs of water falling multiple floors makes the sewer gas at street level blow out of the pipe rather than waft. Still no issue. There’s not enough concentrated methane to ignite like that. Even if it did light it would more like a lighter than a torch.
Can heat a screw driver up aswell and carefully sear through the rest of the plastic you want out makin sure to not damage the hub and then pry and pop that peace out with a cool screwdriver and or some needle nose. Prime and glue it good
Just torch then butter it
Could reach the same outcome without the holesaw, both the elbow and insert were soffend up in that video, need another bit of pipe to put back in while it cools so it stays round and seals, or use a hacksaw blade cut through the insert and split it out with a flat head
Fitting savers are way better
Just not the shit one he showed lol. Reed for the win
Beautiful champ
As a plumber with 100 years of experience I approve
Or just use a reed fitting saver and it will cut in the old pvc
Internet plumbers 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Great job.
This has saved my ass a few times
Nice method way better than trying to cut the piece I'm trying that next time
Like it!
What was the original issue?
Awesome
Handy Andy at it again
That trap assembly is not it bro you could have used a tailpiece extension and just used a regular ptrap assembly instead of that madness
Good job ,for future reference I’ll remember this
Pretty handy
Those two elbows coming out of the wall make the p trap an s trap, those need to be removed.
Fr it breaks the vent
Stinks still plumbed wrong, no vent
The vent is in the wall
The 2- 90s cancelled the vent it's s-trapped
@gd6467 absolutely 💯 this is against code and trash 🗑 try explaining this to non-plumber, DIY, know it all youtube cowboys tho lol they will not get it ever... you can explain it 10 different ways and they will still argue. 🙂
@@gd6467the length of the horizontal waist arm only needs to be 2 and 1/2 times the diameter of the pipe to break the siphon.
If he put a trap adapter directly in that fitting he would be fine.
@@Anthonycapone8146 that's bs absolutely nowhere that is legal
DANG!!! That’s badass
But proceeds to put the flame gun to the sewer line 😂💀
S TRAPPED...😮
💯
Ya.., ditch those 90’s and just come straight out into a trap. That way it’s properly vented (if the vent is in the wall….)
Nice vent
Good method!
Plenty of room to take out the 90 coming from out of the wall run straight pipe to your p trap.. this setup is going to be extremely difficult to snake if needed
I’m more interested in the back siphon caused by that s-trap.
Genius
No leak and no vent... good to go then
To removed comment: "How could you possibly know there's no vent, you just want to sound smart"
I'm a dumbass but this is year 1 stuff, you lose your vent when you turn more than 45° or get higher than the weir. Come to think of it maybe you're the dumbass.
Great idea
Just buy yourself a set of socket savers, it's so much easier and they're not even that expensive.
You can also cut thru the pipe and use a flat head screw driver and force it between the glue joint and piece of pipe and pry it out but that is still an illegal s trap it needs to be cut out and a ptrap installed
I’ve always been able to twist off the old pvc with channel locks the glue breaks off. Takes some muscle but saves time
You said you wouldn't heat up the pipe itself, then at 0:36 you do literally that?
Pretty goofy but if it works, it works
smart
I would not hire this man to work on my plumbing or paint my dogs house.
Internet plumbers 😅
Way to think..new one to me
You could have put that back in vent with all that effort
I prefer to patch the leak up.
Technically you should have removed the two 90' because it could cause an s trap and pull the water from the p trap
This has absolutely no vent, so it's not "working perfectly" to be fair lol. It's an S-trap. Why even have the 90s on there? Just use a slip tail piece off of the popup, it's easier and cheaper lol
Why the s trap?
That’s an strap and pvc of that size only make into the fitting 3/4”
Hub reamer bit. Takes about 5 seconds.
Good for a homeowner diy but a professional would not do that, hub saver is the correct method 👍
I do it all the time with a heat gun. Heat gun was around a lot longer than any hub saver tool.
@ ya and before that you used a hacksaw blade and a hammer and a flat head I just meant present, up to the person I guess lol
I would’ve used a pipe extender but I’m probably a trash plumber
Heating up that glue can’t be good, wear a mask!
Get rid of all those 90s start fresh
Try that with ABS 😊
That’s an S trap shoulda cut the whole thing out. Otherwise nice trick
It can lose the shape and you have leaks
Trap arm cannot have 90s like that. From the p-trap to the Santee must be no more no less than 1/4 of an inch per foot of slope.
You have there an es trap
💯
Still an s trap