Yeah just did this on my 69. It was no fun. I loosened the dash and was able to get out… but not before dropping a ton of coolant on my new carpet. I put a trash bag over the carpet first which helped.
I did one in my girlfriend's 70 Cougar...that was tough. Then I did one in my '93 Vette...that recalibrated the meaning of the word tough! ua-cam.com/video/IOHuxkeSdu0/v-deo.html
I would recommend the Scott drake core so the heater hose pipes stick out through the firewall making hose replacement and servicing easier. Mine just burst for a second time with an aluminum core so I’m just going to take it out and get a block plate. I’m in CA so cold here is like 55 lol. Maybe in the future I’ll do vintage air but I’m good with just oem ac and no Heater lol.
Completely love your vids Andy. Been subscribed and using your channel as a resource, so thanks for putting together these vids. I had my heater box rebuilt last year but they didn't replace my heater hoses I replaced 30+ years ago. They're dry, brittle and crusty. Can I replace them without needing to pull the box, or is this a necessary evil? I'm assuming the extended tubes are not factory correct and just an aftermarket convenience? I also just finished putting in new carpet and upholstery, then I see you pulled your front seat, which I just installed. LOL, just great :-) Lastly, how often do you replace your heater hoses? Thanks again!
You can tell if you've got a long tube heater core by the location of the hose clamps. If you can get to them in the engine bay, you've got a long tube core, and replacing the hoses will be easy. Otherwise, the hose clamps will be on the back side of the heater box, which means it needs to come out. If this is the case, I recommend disconnecting the hoses at the engine and pulling the heater core out and feed the hoses through the firewall. This will make it easier to keep the fluid from spilling on your new carpet. Since you'll have everything out to replace those hoses, maybe you chip in a few more bucks and upgrade to that long tube heater core, for next time. Good luck, you've got this! :)
@@AndyKruseChannel do you think that I’ll still need to disconnect the cables for the heater controls if I pull the box away from the firewall, free of the bolts? I’m curious if that will get me enough room for the host clues.
@@slappy1965 There's enough play in the control cables to move the box down to get to the hose clamps without needing to disconnect the cables. It is easier to just disconnect them while you're doing all this stuff, but it does add to the list of tasks to complete during your replacement. :)
Just found your channel and absolutely love your videos as they are giving me the encouragement i need to get my father's old 1966 convertible mustang back on the road he bought all the way back in 1988. Quick question for you though. What wheel/tire size are you running?
Thanks!! Wheels are American Racing - Torque Thrust II, size 16x7 w/ 5x4.5 bolt and 4 inch backspacing, part number VN2156765. The tires are Falken Azenis RT615K+, size 225/60/16, all four. :)
Two other pro tips on the rebuild is those plastic clamps from harbor freight are your friend when you have to put those box clips back in and potentially have to fiberglass fix the clip mounting points. Second pro tip is to let the glue on the foam gaskets dry a day or two. I was too eager to get it in and had glue shut my heater flaps closed and had to do some work getting those unstick. Then a couple months later the shitty aluminum core replacement blew on me. Now I bypassed it again and am just going to remove it and block off that hole.
Andy, have you thought of going with a Vintage Air or similar system? Your car isn't a concours show car and is made to drive. I've done this only my cars and it is so much better.
Thanks. I guess the previous owner added the holes for an ac that was in the car when I bought it. I’ll try to get some body plugs to see if I can block them off until needed.
If you still have the coolant hoses connected and have coolant in the heater the best thing to do is to remove the hoses from the thermostat housing and water pump, let them drain out the best you can and plug the ends. Then when you pull the heater out from the inside of the car pull the hoses all the way through. Some people try to disconnect the hoses under the dash and it's a giant mess.
I keep blowing my heater core. I found out I need to use a pressure reducer in the hose to keep that from happening. I have all the parts, I just have taken the time to do it yet. I spend too much time watching your videos waiting for the electric power steering. :-)
@@AndyKruseChannel It should just be a stock pump. Not fun when you put your foot in it and it blows all over the inside of your car and covers you and the windows with steam. I just recently read about some of the fox body mustangs having the problem and solved it with a reducer. I hope it does.
FYI my cardboard plenum was in pretty decent shape and sold for $250 on ebay within 45mins of listing it. If anyone has one that isnt torn to heck, don't toss em!
@@AndyKruseChannel The old parts are financing a lot of my build haha. Even a decent shape original 2bbl with the tag still on it was worth $100. I see a lot of people just chuck the old parts and it hurts.
Just completed this rebuild on my 65. Great video and good luck on the rebuild!
Awesome! Thank you!
That isn't too bad of a project on your car. The 69 is a massive project with the dash pad needing to come out. Awesome video!
Yeah just did this on my 69. It was no fun. I loosened the dash and was able to get out… but not before dropping a ton of coolant on my new carpet. I put a trash bag over the carpet first which helped.
Yeah, I think it will be pretty easy to refurbish this system, I just gotta stop spending money on other, more fun parts. :)
I did one in my girlfriend's 70 Cougar...that was tough. Then I did one in my '93 Vette...that recalibrated the meaning of the word tough!
ua-cam.com/video/IOHuxkeSdu0/v-deo.html
Nothing like making an old car complete and correct!
Kudos Andy! 🏆🏁
Thanks! 👍
Very helpful Andy. I hope your next video shows you rebuilding the box and replacing the core.
Yes, I will be doing the rebuild, but it will be a bit. :)
I would recommend the Scott drake core so the heater hose pipes stick out through the firewall making hose replacement and servicing easier. Mine just burst for a second time with an aluminum core so I’m just going to take it out and get a block plate. I’m in CA so cold here is like 55 lol. Maybe in the future I’ll do vintage air but I’m good with just oem ac and no Heater lol.
Yes, I used that core on my last Mustang, definitely easier to service with the longer tubes. :)
I was thinking of doing the same thing. Thanks for posting this video!
No problem!
Completely love your vids Andy. Been subscribed and using your channel as a resource, so thanks for putting together these vids. I had my heater box rebuilt last year but they didn't replace my heater hoses I replaced 30+ years ago. They're dry, brittle and crusty. Can I replace them without needing to pull the box, or is this a necessary evil? I'm assuming the extended tubes are not factory correct and just an aftermarket convenience? I also just finished putting in new carpet and upholstery, then I see you pulled your front seat, which I just installed. LOL, just great :-) Lastly, how often do you replace your heater hoses? Thanks again!
You can tell if you've got a long tube heater core by the location of the hose clamps. If you can get to them in the engine bay, you've got a long tube core, and replacing the hoses will be easy. Otherwise, the hose clamps will be on the back side of the heater box, which means it needs to come out. If this is the case, I recommend disconnecting the hoses at the engine and pulling the heater core out and feed the hoses through the firewall. This will make it easier to keep the fluid from spilling on your new carpet. Since you'll have everything out to replace those hoses, maybe you chip in a few more bucks and upgrade to that long tube heater core, for next time. Good luck, you've got this! :)
@@AndyKruseChannel do you think that I’ll still need to disconnect the cables for the heater controls if I pull the box away from the firewall, free of the bolts? I’m curious if that will get me enough room for the host clues.
@@slappy1965 There's enough play in the control cables to move the box down to get to the hose clamps without needing to disconnect the cables. It is easier to just disconnect them while you're doing all this stuff, but it does add to the list of tasks to complete during your replacement. :)
Good work, should be nice to have some heat! It's getting cold out there.
Thanks!
Not sure I'll get it done fast enough, the cold weather is coming fast. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel that it is. We have snow here in Utah already.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Yeah, it's snowing now. Ugh. :)
Just found your channel and absolutely love your videos as they are giving me the encouragement i need to get my father's old 1966 convertible mustang back on the road he bought all the way back in 1988.
Quick question for you though. What wheel/tire size are you running?
Thanks!!
Wheels are American Racing - Torque Thrust II, size 16x7 w/ 5x4.5 bolt and 4 inch backspacing, part number VN2156765. The tires are Falken Azenis RT615K+, size 225/60/16, all four. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you! Looking forward to your future videos
Two other pro tips on the rebuild is those plastic clamps from harbor freight are your friend when you have to put those box clips back in and potentially have to fiberglass fix the clip mounting points. Second pro tip is to let the glue on the foam gaskets dry a day or two. I was too eager to get it in and had glue shut my heater flaps closed and had to do some work getting those unstick. Then a couple months later the shitty aluminum core replacement blew on me. Now I bypassed it again and am just going to remove it and block off that hole.
Thanks for the heads up. :)
Andy, have you thought of going with a Vintage Air or similar system? Your car isn't a concours show car and is made to drive. I've done this only my cars and it is so much better.
I have, but it's pricey. It's on the list, but below other more fun items I want right now. :)
did mine on the cougar all the louvers inside rusted out looking into a oem complete replacement
Sounds like an opportunity for an upgrade!
Wow....still have the original cardboard-type heater plenum. Don't see those much anymore!
Yeah, it's pretty bad, it's easy to see why people opt for the plastic units now. :)
Question for you.
What is blocking off the holes in your firewall were the ac hoses would go through. Could you post a picture of yours.
This car does not have AC, nor are there factory holes for an AC system. The holes by the fan are for the heater lines going to the heater core.
Thanks. I guess the previous owner added the holes for an ac that was in the car when I bought it. I’ll try to get some body plugs to see if I can block them off until needed.
great job bro
Appreciate it
If you still have the coolant hoses connected and have coolant in the heater the best thing to do is to remove the hoses from the thermostat housing and water pump, let them drain out the best you can and plug the ends. Then when you pull the heater out from the inside of the car pull the hoses all the way through. Some people try to disconnect the hoses under the dash and it's a giant mess.
Yes, I had that problem on my last Mustang. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Pretty sure I commented on that one too. 🙂
It’s actually pretty easy just put one hose to a bucket and the other put a air compressor or even just use your mouth to blow out the fluid.
2:25 this bolt is a pain to remove. It’s a carriage bolt and the nut is rusted on so when I try to loosen it, the whole thing spins
It's these kinds of projects that keep us young. :)
I did this on my 66' FB too. Not hard but awkward.
I got lucky, cut hoses and missing screws make it really easy to pull this box out. :)
I keep blowing my heater core. I found out I need to use a pressure reducer in the hose to keep that from happening. I have all the parts, I just have taken the time to do it yet. I spend too much time watching your videos waiting for the electric power steering. :-)
Do you have a high pressure or high volume water pump? I wonder if that is causing the heater core to go?
@@AndyKruseChannel It should just be a stock pump. Not fun when you put your foot in it and it blows all over the inside of your car and covers you and the windows with steam. I just recently read about some of the fox body mustangs having the problem and solved it with a reducer. I hope it does.
FYI my cardboard plenum was in pretty decent shape and sold for $250 on ebay within 45mins of listing it. If anyone has one that isnt torn to heck, don't toss em!
Agreed, quality original parts go pretty fast these days. 🙂
@@AndyKruseChannel The old parts are financing a lot of my build haha. Even a decent shape original 2bbl with the tag still on it was worth $100.
I see a lot of people just chuck the old parts and it hurts.