I have to say, when you look at Nick's video series, only then can you appreciate the skill and artistry that goes into strip boat building. The remarkable patience and the amount of time spent is a point of awe. The finished product is nothing less than spectacular.
thanks for all your vids and instruction, action speak louder than commentary so I appreciate the music which puts me in a clear place to think when Im watching, the txt that shows up is great so I know whats you are actually doing and how. I started my strip plank outrigger canoe a few years ago but I didnt have a clue what I was doing, now I have a bit more confidence after your vids - cheers Stevie from Aotearoa New Zealand
Nick you bring to mind Fred Bear,and thank you endlessly for these remarkable videos,and the perfect music nuance. I'll be following you closely once I get my shop up, here in Ashland,Ky. this winter. This method places you in maestro mode, clearly! T.G.
I hand sharpened Staples on a whetstone a row at one time. The resulting Staples are so sharp they now penetrate the wood fiber without tearing and the resulting hole can be swelled shut with heat and moisture. Clearly 50% of all holes are completely invisible the rest are very noticeably reduced in size. You should give it a try on your next staple build. It takes so little time to sharpen a row of Staples. I think you'll like it so well I bet you'll make a video.
I can't use a hand plane. Always had trouble setting the blade right. I never get those soft wood curls. Also my plane either takes too big of chunks or wood gets jammed up in the blade.
Usually people set the blade too deep. This will cause chunks and jamming. The reason people do this is usually because their blade is dull. When was the last time you sharpened the blade? Sharpen your blade (there are lots of videos on youtube) then set it up so the blade is pulled back so far that the blade does not cut at all. Then very slowly push the blade out until it just barely starts to cut. This is usually about where you want the blade set.
Is there an advantage of fitting them in after the sheer strip instead of making them first and cut them all together and adding the sheerstrip at last? Thanks for your videos. They really make wanna build one by my self!
I suppose you could cut and fit afterwards, but it would be a long seam and awkward to reach without flipping the boat over, which is a possible option.
Nick: It strikes me it would be very helpful if you could include a link with each clip to the respective previous video in the series. UA-cam offers only a "Next" skip button (I seem to recall it used to have a "Previous" skip, but now you can only replay the existing clip) Otherwise a person finding this clip and wanting to (per your suggestion in the covering note) find out how the gap between the sheer strip and the second strip was arrived at "in the previous video" would have to go to the guillemot website and wade through 22 unindexed pages
Yes, it would and it was my plan to do that. It just comes down to me not doing it. Juggling the building of the boat, editing the video, getting it posted to UA-cam, sorting out links to tools, and other links to other videos, I have neglected adding a link back to the previous video. At this point I do have a play list with all the episodes in this series at: Strip Built microBootlegger Sport Not quite what you are looking for, but the best I've got so far.
Sorry to be a klutz, and thanks for such a prompt reply, but when I go to www.guillemot-kayaks.com/guillemot/kayak/bootlegger/microbootlegger_sport The only options I can find are _View Drawings Performance Pictures Details Price_ , none of which seem to link to a playlist. Any chance you could post a link to that playlist, or a page from which we can access it?
I just wondered weather anyone had tried using bamboo strips to build a canoe as this is quiete strong in its own right and could be used for ribs as well?
+John Laccohee-Joslin Yes, I know of at least one guy who has used bamboo strips. He made some beautiful kayaks. Note that solid bamboo is quite dense and would make a heavy boat with standard thickness strips. He used 1/8" thick strips to keep the weight down. He said the material was not easy to work with, but the results were very nice.
Carpenter's glue is a waterbased glue. There is no need for a waterproof glue because everything will be covered with fiberglass and epoxy. Waterproof glues tend to be harder to work with, more toxic and more expensive. They are no stronger and the glue does not get wet under the fiberglass, so the easy clean up, good working properties, low toxicity and low cost of Carpenters Glue is a good choice.
can't hurry craftsmanship and perfection. Those boats are worth every penny.
I have to say, when you look at Nick's video series, only then can you appreciate the skill and artistry that goes into strip boat building. The remarkable patience and the amount of time spent is a point of awe. The finished product is nothing less than spectacular.
thanks for all your vids and instruction, action speak louder than commentary so I appreciate the music which puts me in a clear place to think when Im watching, the txt that shows up is great so I know whats you are actually doing and how. I started my strip plank outrigger canoe a few years ago but I didnt have a clue what I was doing, now I have a bit more confidence after your vids - cheers Stevie from Aotearoa New Zealand
Nick you bring to mind Fred Bear,and thank you endlessly for these remarkable videos,and the perfect music nuance. I'll be following you closely once I get my shop up, here in Ashland,Ky. this winter. This method places you in maestro mode, clearly! T.G.
Nick....you are an ARTIST my friend.....thanks for posting.
Wow. I would love to come work with you so you can teach me this skill. I would love to build kayaks and canoes..
wonderful Nick!
I see what you are doing and know you have numbered the strips but how have you used the strips when applying them?
I hand sharpened Staples on a whetstone a row at one time. The resulting Staples are so sharp they now penetrate the wood fiber without tearing and the resulting hole can be swelled shut with heat and moisture. Clearly 50% of all holes are completely invisible the rest are very noticeably reduced in size. You should give it a try on your next staple build. It takes so little time to sharpen a row of Staples. I think you'll like it so well I bet you'll make a video.
How thick are the strips?
What do you call the tool you are cutting the strips with?
I know it’s a little late, but they’re called molding cutters or molding shears.
I can't use a hand plane. Always had trouble setting the blade right. I never get those soft wood curls. Also my plane either takes too big of chunks or wood gets jammed up in the blade.
Usually people set the blade too deep. This will cause chunks and jamming. The reason people do this is usually because their blade is dull. When was the last time you sharpened the blade?
Sharpen your blade (there are lots of videos on youtube) then set it up so the blade is pulled back so far that the blade does not cut at all. Then very slowly push the blade out until it just barely starts to cut. This is usually about where you want the blade set.
please;
What do you call the tool you are cutting the strips with?
I know it’s a little late, but they’re called molding cutters or molding shears.
Is there an advantage of fitting them in after the sheer strip instead of making them first and cut them all together and adding the sheerstrip at last?
Thanks for your videos. They really make wanna build one by my self!
I suppose you could cut and fit afterwards, but it would be a long seam and awkward to reach without flipping the boat over, which is a possible option.
Nick: It strikes me it would be very helpful if you could include a link with each clip to the respective previous video in the series. UA-cam offers only a "Next" skip button (I seem to recall it used to have a "Previous" skip, but now you can only replay the existing clip)
Otherwise a person finding this clip and wanting to (per your suggestion in the covering note) find out how the gap between the sheer strip and the second strip was arrived at "in the previous video" would have to go to the guillemot website and wade through 22 unindexed pages
Yes, it would and it was my plan to do that. It just comes down to me not doing it. Juggling the building of the boat, editing the video, getting it posted to UA-cam, sorting out links to tools, and other links to other videos, I have neglected adding a link back to the previous video.
At this point I do have a play list with all the episodes in this series at: Strip Built microBootlegger Sport Not quite what you are looking for, but the best I've got so far.
Sorry to be a klutz, and thanks for such a prompt reply, but when I go to
www.guillemot-kayaks.com/guillemot/kayak/bootlegger/microbootlegger_sport
The only options I can find are _View Drawings Performance Pictures Details Price_ , none of which seem to link to a playlist.
Any chance you could post a link to that playlist, or a page from which we can access it?
Oops, that was supposed to be a link. ua-cam.com/play/PLnPW0gzxQ0Njo9IBogbqZ9JYkp0lqWaCg.html
Nick, you're an absolute champ. Thanks so much for your trouble, and for the treasure trove each of your clips provides.
3/16 inch or about 4 mm
I just wondered weather anyone had tried using bamboo strips to build a canoe as this is quiete strong in its own right and could be used for ribs as well?
+John Laccohee-Joslin Yes, I know of at least one guy who has used bamboo strips. He made some beautiful kayaks. Note that solid bamboo is quite dense and would make a heavy boat with standard thickness strips. He used 1/8" thick strips to keep the weight down. He said the material was not easy to work with, but the results were very nice.
Very nice. But isnt that a water based glue. Surely a phenol based glue or epoxy would be better suited.
looks like the liberty ships were rolling off the warf a little faster then that Canoe pall...
Carpenter's glue is a waterbased glue. There is no need for a waterproof glue because everything will be covered with fiberglass and epoxy. Waterproof glues tend to be harder to work with, more toxic and more expensive. They are no stronger and the glue does not get wet under the fiberglass, so the easy clean up, good working properties, low toxicity and low cost of Carpenters Glue is a good choice.
Thanks
HA HA ! O.K. , Please on the next video include verbal instructions. It would add so much more to an already good video ! :-)
Ooh my Good!!
In the future, share some verbal instruction.
Verbal? Take plan and move it from one side to another? Take tape , ah forget it.......
In the future, share some verbal instruction.
In the future, say please.