Dive Deep through the world of Thin Thread! Here's some additional helpful links: Learn More: scrnprntl.ink/DDWCThinThread Aluminum Screens: scrnprntl.ink/DDWC14SCREENS Drop your Deep Dive submission here: scrnprntl.ink/DDWCYTForm
Love it! Keep the Deep Dives coming!👍 We love thin thread in our shop. However, we have noticed pretty low tension when stretching a 200-230 thin thread Eco Frame. Usually drops to about 17-18 newtons once the mesh relaxes. Is that normal for Eco Frames? Our TT statics are typically around 20 and up to start with.
So that mesh, you can actually ask for higher tension in the panels. The problem most manufacturers have is the average printer pops the mesh panels, even at those low tensions. So to prevent loses, they are forced to make the panels at a slightly lower tension. Let us know if we can help you get higher tension thin thread panels for those Eco frames!
@@colinhuggins6164 Yeah, that makes sense. Would love to get some higher tension panels if possible! Is that something you guys sell or a different technique with stretching?
Thanks Colin, great explanation. For higher mesh counts would you suggest for us manual printers to do a standard mesh or the thin thread option to make it easier on our body (assuming image detail isn’t affected)? Example-using a standard 200 mesh screen versus using a 230 thin thread on a top colour print over an underbase. Since there’s an underbase already I’d assume we wouldn’t be driving the print into the garment itself but instead gliding it along the solid underbase unlike the underbases which I’d be going 157 hydro thin thread all the way. Lastly, as a followup I had an excellent result the other day using a light grey as an underbase and am wondering if that is something that is standard practice rather than using white all the time? Or is it really a thing? My theory is the slight bit of black mixed into the white to make light grey acted as a bit of a viscosity buster to the ink giving it great flow characteristics but would love to hear your take on it! Thanks again!
For top colors on a white base - go with whatever is doing best for you. For spot colors over a white base, I would run all top colors on either a 180 or 230 thin thread mesh when I was running production. For the gray underbase - was this a custom mix of yours? You may have stirred the ink up really well getting it primed for printing.
@@colinhuggins6164 I did make it a custom mix by adding just a bit of black to my Bolt White. I thought that might be the case that it was stirred up and my platens were nice and hot but I decided to do a test the next day with the ink pretty stiff and totally unstirred and it still had the same result. So I’m wondering if it did act as a bit of an ink thinner/reducer? My straight Bolt White out of the can was much stiffer in comparison when it sat overnight (it was my highlight white in the print).
Dive Deep through the world of Thin Thread! Here's some additional helpful links:
Learn More: scrnprntl.ink/DDWCThinThread
Aluminum Screens: scrnprntl.ink/DDWC14SCREENS
Drop your Deep Dive submission here: scrnprntl.ink/DDWCYTForm
Thank you we run all thin thread
Love it! Keep the Deep Dives coming!👍 We love thin thread in our shop. However, we have noticed pretty low tension when stretching a 200-230 thin thread Eco Frame. Usually drops to about 17-18 newtons once the mesh relaxes. Is that normal for Eco Frames? Our TT statics are typically around 20 and up to start with.
So that mesh, you can actually ask for higher tension in the panels. The problem most manufacturers have is the average printer pops the mesh panels, even at those low tensions. So to prevent loses, they are forced to make the panels at a slightly lower tension.
Let us know if we can help you get higher tension thin thread panels for those Eco frames!
@@colinhuggins6164 Yeah, that makes sense. Would love to get some higher tension panels if possible! Is that something you guys sell or a different technique with stretching?
you mentioned squeegees. Is it common practice to sand or round off the corners of your squeegee when using thin thread screens?
Thanks Colin, great explanation.
For higher mesh counts would you suggest for us manual printers to do a standard mesh or the thin thread option to make it easier on our body (assuming image detail isn’t affected)?
Example-using a standard 200 mesh screen versus using a 230 thin thread on a top colour print over an underbase. Since there’s an underbase already I’d assume we wouldn’t be driving the print into the garment itself but instead gliding it along the solid underbase unlike the underbases which I’d be going 157 hydro thin thread all the way.
Lastly, as a followup I had an excellent result the other day using a light grey as an underbase and am wondering if that is something that is standard practice rather than using white all the time? Or is it really a thing? My theory is the slight bit of black mixed into the white to make light grey acted as a bit of a viscosity buster to the ink giving it great flow characteristics but would love to hear your take on it!
Thanks again!
For top colors on a white base - go with whatever is doing best for you. For spot colors over a white base, I would run all top colors on either a 180 or 230 thin thread mesh when I was running production.
For the gray underbase - was this a custom mix of yours? You may have stirred the ink up really well getting it primed for printing.
@@colinhuggins6164 I did make it a custom mix by adding just a bit of black to my Bolt White. I thought that might be the case that it was stirred up and my platens were nice and hot but I decided to do a test the next day with the ink pretty stiff and totally unstirred and it still had the same result. So I’m wondering if it did act as a bit of an ink thinner/reducer? My straight Bolt White out of the can was much stiffer in comparison when it sat overnight (it was my highlight white in the print).
HI-dro 4 Life 🗝
Shur loc has a full array of thin thread? I was looking at panels and only saw a couple mesh counts with thin thread options
Give them a call and see what their options are!
Stare at a thin thread mesh screen the wrong way it will pop lol
lol, not to far wrong, but its far easier to keep them in good condition than people think.
@@colinhuggins6164 definitely they’re pretty nice to work with on the auto