Thanks for all the effort in making these videos. I would also like to thank you for sharing what you have learned over the years. Otherwise the knowledge gets lost.
I definitely agree here! I myself is more on imports/honda stuff and i work on those but i realized once you "understand" then knowledge applies to every engine...and thank to Mr Vizard for taking the time in sharing here for all of us and it is still "wisdom" that we are getting priceless at that
@@bcbloc02 Fancy seeing you here Brian😁👍👍. I don't think Ill be filling ports any time soon. All this port work boggles my mind with all the counter intuitive stuff going on. Maybe one day 🤔
David it is good to see you again even though it is through UA-cam and not in person. You and I used to chat quite a bit in the late 80s I worked at super shops on second Street in Riverside and even visited you at your house a couple of times back decades ago.
David, thank you for your sharing of very expensive knowledge, FOR FREE! Nearly unbelievable. You are a very generous man. Very anxious to see every new video, but especially this bbc stuff.
Never ending cycle of development, ( If that's not too big a word for it). Tried port filling the Peugeot 1.9 205 gti head along with the In manifold attached. Initially it was worth 10-15 hp (My dyno was not the best) so approx 3hp per cylinder. The flow with the manifold fitted was a major disappointment, so over many attempts I floated in more and more resin until the cfm value dropped by nearly 1 unit over the non filled port. It ended up with enough low/mid range torque that we went up 15 deg on cam duration gained 20ish BHP from 6 - 8800 rpm and would still take full throttle in top gear from 2500 on 38mm chokes. If only it had more cyliders🍻
Devcon aluminum filled engineering epoxies are excellent. I do not do heads, but have used it many times in industry to salvage damaged castings in pumps and such. Fantastic stuff. It's consistency is just a bit more liquid than the Goodson appears. Your presentations are pure GOLD! Thank you for making them.
Yeah I was just researching devcon on some forums. Also a product called Splash Zone a-788. Guy asked how practical it was to use these products for a street driven car instead of race only.
Hey Big Moose - thanks for the tip here. This stuff looks like an excellent deal for intake manifold. Will research that. Got any starting advice???????
@@marvingvx1 David, the product I used was Devcon Aluminum filled epoxy Devcon part number for 1lb 10610, for 3 lbs part number 10620. To me it was a non sagging paste, mixed with a putty knife and applied with hard pressure. I used it to recover pumps. I did a pretty good job in preparation, thorough de greasing and bead blasted. I rebuilt scrolls and even bearing journals. As for the bearing areas, I remachined and installed new ball bearings. It is amazing how long many of these repairs lasted. Not cheap at around $70/lb, but to me, it's the best in the field. Hope this helps you some.
Thank you DV. I'm so much better engine builder because of you. You put me in the winner's circle. Very strange. My car number was. 50. 1999. August 7th. Old Dominion speedway.
Thanks for sharing. I don't think most people realize how much effort it takes to make a good UA-cam video. Even a bad one takes time and effort. This is one of your better videos David and thanks to all that helped you. God Bless!
Thanks for the information! I was pleasantly surprised to see this information. A few years back I prepped a set of heads myself for a project car. I filled the bottom of the ports and recontoured to roof almost exactly as you did. I did it without ever seeing of hearing of this, it just seemed to make sense to me at that time. I feel vindicated in my theory! I also moved the pushrod holes and filled the breach in the ports. And you are correct that JB weld does not work there! It softened and failed in this area. One thing I would advise against as well, do not use the JB "quick" in place of regular JB weld, it is not anywhere near as durable. Thanks again Mr. Vizard!
You never fail to answer nearly all my questions. I'll be using this wisdom on my cleveland heads for, hopefully, more streetable power. I don't have a flow bench, and if I don't build one, I'll just rattle around in the ports a bit until I feel satisfied that I've reproduced some of the characteristics that you've pointed out.
Thank You for Your Port Filling Video and explaining why it is beneficial. Port Energy and Velocity is Up ! Useful NHRA Super Stock Racing like F.A.S.T. Classes and Street Racing like with a Pontiac V8 455 I Love. Also Love SBC & BBC engines in a C4 Generation Corvette.
The was a company in Australia a while back that did port fillers/tongues for both exhaust and inlets on Cleveland 4v heads. I believe they were Parker performance products. The exhaust was sheet metal stainless that was held in by the header and the inlet was alloy.
I assume when filling a port as shown, you also have to do this on the intake manifold. Maybe I missed it but if not, that would be a big air damn to run into.
Looking at port area / valve area, both heads are pretty close IMO and the ports are far from small :) but I guess this is high rpm racing stuff. Thank you for showing us the special custom driling prep and the grinding. I guess not to many would dare to do this.
I’m sure you get this all the time. How long does the fill last and is there something to make it last longer? Do different fuels kill the filler also? I can’t believe how much time it took to learn all the stuff you know about this stuff. Thank you again DV
Really well shown thank you David .to the chap asking about how high to raise the floor , the way i did it on a small engine , an a series ,was to put it on the flow bench , and add plasticine to the floor until the flow stopped going up , then i could play with the shape of it to get the best flow and sound from the port ...using my flow ball and cotton thread .
Robert, Your method of determining how much need to go on the port floor was right on the money. after the port floor ahs be raised to the point that no more flow is seen it is time to start on the area's a flow ball shows' are the busiest and slowly rework till the flow once again tops out. DV
Great video, very good info. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge. We appreciate it very much. ( I'm study the head of my 2004 Mini Cooper (not S) 1600 16v N.A. engine , the intake port is not bad in side view, but is very large at the area of bifurcation on bird eyes view, I'm thinking that it necessarily to fill it in that area.
I had some canfield heads that had alot of work done they had epoxy in copper tubes in the intake ports and it was leaking when i vacuum checked it so I used jb weld after removing the old epoxy and never had a problem again
For many reasons You've stated in the past, "I want to jump to the conclusion!?" That "USUALLY" You should use the largest intake valve that easily fits in a cylinder head And maximize it, For Low lift flow, Even if valve shrouding becomes increased, When "MAXIMIZING FAT FLOW"! (When using cams that only have .55" Or less lift.) PS. I'm not very eloquent. But You have Made me look great Many times when standing on your shoulders in the past, I.E. using your ideas, Applied to vehicles. Respectfully, Kurt
Hi David, have loved your stuff for many years, I would love to see you pick an engine and mock up the ideal cylinder head given the block design restrictions.
This video is just in time. Different style head, the ports in my old Harley ironhead Sportster are HUGE, much too big for a 30.5ci cylinder. I feel raising the floor to smooth the transition to the bowl will give quite an improvement in flow, we will see.
David. i had a good low port head, car performed well, but not good enough. i set those heads on a shelf, and got some that could have a roof that is .200" higher off the deck, and could be .075" wider at the pushrod. I built a port that flowed awesome, with similar port area (just a tiny bit larger than the original heads) with the floor also raised a signficant amount. flow increased from 310 to about 340. it make great power on the dyno, 60hp more at 8600 over the old combo, but would not do well at the track unless it was driven extremely aggressively (really high launch rpm). it would BOG and lose .15 of a second if the launch wasnt where it needed to be. and even then, performance was no better than the original induction combo. i tried filling in the ports more, and a smaller cam. same result. i am STUMPED. Bogging usually means too low on velocity. but, is it possible the port is not BIG ENOUGH for having been raised so much? JUST A NOTE: the velocity on this port will exceed 330 fps at the higher lifts. might be too much, making the flow unusable.
Thank you david vizard performance. I want to use a set of reworked large heads on a small block chevy, converting them to street heads using a raised floor to reduce cc runner 'quantity' . They are raised runner race type heads. Using the same drill technique or not, have you ever poured molten aluminum to fill? Also Alfadan mahle collaboration engine is scheduled to come out in boats 2024, if all goes well, it could very well take over the industry, they made free valve technology for the huayara. It incorporates great features like gearless transmission through a multi range coned torque converter like device.
Another great video, thank you. I was wondering how you decided how high to raise the floor, and how would that translate to a small port stock SBF head? Is it to do with the amount of material removed at the roof?
I was thinking about doing this on my Blueprint HP9009 heads on my sbf 331. Thinking I needed more velocity on the 190cc intake ports, but I’m not sure.
At the 20 minute mark when talking port density and the sr20 head on the dyno I assume that the only reason the sr20 head beat yours on the dyno was because of the bigger valve and related area. If the sr20 head had the same size valves snd the curves were as shown here then likely yours would beat it on the dyno as predicted by the curves?
More than ten years ago, some UA-camr named MOTOMAN was talking about the same thing, But he was using JB weld ...and now there are guys that are grinding little dimples only on the intake side ..What are your thoughts on the dimples David ?....and thank you so much for sharing sir 👍 👌
For when you want your heads set on KILL! It's like the nitrous button you can't turn off! Haha, loving it, these videos are awesome 😎👍, I have 2 maybe 3 sets of heads I'd like to do, one is a set of 210cc Doug Herbert. Chevy heads id like to set to kill! They are new 12 year old heads, and another similar set I'd like to do similar, and drill steam holes for a 400 block, I saw a 400 with 283 crank, I kinda like that, but I would want a 5-6speed behind it, so I'm thinking keep it a 406 , convert to 5.7 rods, a 406 with 10:1 mild cam with . 550" lift should be great for the street, maybe go 9:1, and turbo it! The kill set is on a 385, with 5140 crank and rods, forged zero decked pistons, and arp studs in the heads and 4bt mains! So it should handle the power!
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,I used jb weld to fill the bottom of Harley shovelhead ports [they are too big] ......on the blacktop dyno I felt a gain......Upon later disassembly I found the filler was mostly gone,,,,,burnt out and away ........................the Goodson stuff appears superior..........................thanks David.............
Thanks for sharing Mr. David, if you have the time it will be great and much appriciated if you made some special episodes on 4 valve cylinders heads like the mighty engines like B series Honda and 4G63 engines from mitsubishi. And maybe touch the subject on the effects of raming air into NA manifolds via scoops at high car velocity, like circut/endurance racing are there any things to take in account.
Hi Remy. Think I can offer some amateur flowbench 4 valve stuff, but I consider its something to look before making engine swap for example OEM Honda. UA-cam offers a tool for sharing and also discussion how to approach different things like restrictions. I think you could take a look, because I even got the filler! I approach scoops, throttle bodies and chambers like they are tested on the track and the meter for making decision witch way to go is, how that thing accelerates. Different story does the engine make more dyno HP. David Vizard Performance channel is teaching us even no 4 valve head in the studio. There must be more "4 valve" guys ho could show how to do things and I would like to encourage them to do it. Cheers, -juhana
David any thoughts on PC products PC-7 for light port filling in an intake manifold? I did some research and found favorable comments on this epoxy. Price is good also! This would be used in your "light filling" application
Ill be doing this with my 7 port head for the A series. Currently it has 40mm ports and throttle bodies on a 1310. Way too big. Im thinking about going down to 30mm ports and throttle bodies in an effort to get the velocity up and hopefully see a decent torque improvement right through to 7500rpm
My general impression of BBC heads is that rectangular port heads are big, inefficient ports while oval ports are efficient but small. The drag race engine doesn’t care about the inefficiency, just the top end power while the efficient oval port will do very well for a street engine (even a big one). Your work looks like you’re raising the rectangular port and adding bias, then reducing the cross-section to get back efficiency. Basically increasing size where the high velocity air lives and blocking out the low velocity/stagnant (relatively) areas. So, my question is, how much does this apply to a rectangular port LS head? Back-to-back tests by Richard Holdener show a 6.0 with rec port heads gains power throughout the curve when fitted with TFS 225s, a head with smaller ports and smaller intake valves. Flow numbers favor the TFS head even though both have more than enough to support the power level of the 6.0 at 6500 or so rpm. By inspection, the TFS port velocity and coefficient of discharge must be better, probably a lot, based on smaller port volume and smaller valves. Likewise, port energy must be up, too. So, can the rec port head be improved similarly to the BBC head? Great video, thanks!
Great question. Seems when discussing this stuff nobody brings up the different uses of the engine. A road race engine would probably benefit GREATLY from this, because they operate in areas where a drag race motor never does. I don't know why we are so focused on drag racing, the most expensive and shortest amount of seat time racing in existence.
@@hotrodray6802 There is a difference in the engines that are successful there, which I guess is the point. I’m more of a strong street engine guy, drivable but fun level of power.
So I've got a tiny 4v engine (1300cc that revs to a whopping 6500rpm) that has a port that's equivalent to a 42mm ID tube. It's a drainpipe feeding a drinking straw. (For those that care, it's a 2NZ Toyota, as found in the Echo/Yaris/Vitz family) Engine Analyzer says that if I fill the port by 30% or so without losing much flow (I'd be tidying things up at the same time and doing a valve job, it's feasible to shrink the port without losing when you're starting from stock) and install the longer duration cams from a different engine in the same family I'd be up 5% in peak torque and nearly 20% in top end. Evidently the port is still too big (EA says the velocity is low) and it's only just starting to work.
@@augustoa.b.1412 I don't quite understand your question. The 1.5 litre version of my engine is a little taller, but it fits. I just can't use it because of the rules around engine swaps. It has the same head casting and cams that are a bit longer duration. I'd use it if I thought I could get away with it though.
The 2zr-fe we got in north america has the same problem. I pulled the intake manifold off mine and ran the numbers on it and velocity at peak power isnt even 300'/s. The intake tract is way too big for 130hp and the engine is really soft on the bottom. Is seems like it makes less than 100ftlbs until over 3000rpm
David, the knowledge you are sharing is amazing. Have you considered partnering with one of the aftermarket head manufacturers to make "VizardHP" castings? They could potentially scan your optimized designs and change the sand pieces that form the castings. Brodix and TrickFlow come to mind.
Didn't Professor Vizard do something like that with the major camshaft grinders? Even with proof, Professor Vizard's advice is regarded with suspicion among these cam companies. That said, I would love to see and own a Vizard developed aftermarket cylinder head.
I think it depends on camshaft and purpose. I would be really reluctant to fill a port on a customers build if you dont know enough you have to ask. On a 385 with more than 0.550 lift the 227s will make more power from 2500rpm. They just will. How do you think your customer will react when you want to bill them for 40hrs so they have 10-20ftlbs more at 4000rpm? The smaller heads will have better transient response and probably a little better fuel economy driving around town but unless you are on a 1/3 mile oval the response might not be noticeable. Dont forget that Ls3 engines are 376ci and have 260cc intake ports.
So let's see if I understand this correctly. It's not about the highest number of hp, but the area in which it's used with the least amount of dropoff🤔? 🤷♀️
I wish I had gotten unto head shaking and testing 29 years ago, I remember heated online debates on my chosen cars forums because nobody seemed to be able to break 200whp N/A on our 2.5L 4 valve engines. I tried to discuss the idea of testing the heads from the 1.8L variant and everyone to a T insisted that bigger ports and valves are always better and going down in size anywhere was foolish.
I am thinking this would be great on a smallblock 318 Mopar engine using the 360 heads with the bigger ports for mild applications I think the ports are to big for a mild 318. Anyone out there think I am on the right track with this thinking?
My question is under boost is this worth it with the port job you did without the filling in and stopped there air pushing/rushing in may take advantage of the whole port boost creating more velocity
Yes, I showed a head that is far better than a typical 24 degree one. The one shown is the SR20 20 degree big valve (2.4 inch diameter) Brodix head. DV
@@marvingvx1 I am on a farm with access to a lot of small engines, so I practice on the 1-2 cylinder engines. It is quick, cheap. and easy to do and only have 1 or 2 cylinders to do so not trying to match 6-8 cylinders to each other. And if I mess up it is not a big deal. I can then tackle the "real" motors with more insight and some skill and confidence. And Thank you for these videos I have gained a lot of understanding of what it means to do this type of modifications. It is not just H.P. (HOG and Polish) but a real science.
How much of this works in a smaller scale, say a single cylinder 50cc to 450cc? Or is it just experiment and buy two heads and do one with bigger ports and the other one with port fillings
David, As we assume the men that design engines are quite clever, Why do you believe they haven't made intake ports optimum. Why do we need to fill some ports ?.. May it be as simple as saving cast iron ? while sacrificing some power
@@marvingvx1 thanks and thank you for your fast response. Great work lovely to see something iv never seen before. Iv slightly ported and smoothed my head and been told to dimple it. Hope to see more from you iv only just come across your work. Cheers
Watching people fill the bottom of the ports makes me wonder what Gm was doing when they designed the Peanut port heads for the Mark4 big block. The whole port is the bottom.
@@marvingvx1 i honestly dont see many if any cortinas about mate. i love the sound of them getting on song with a set of 40's / 45's gurgling away!! cheers.
An another,from 1 cylinder.Use a smaller piston.Runs easier.Heat cause size difference,and it gets "stucked".After ++1000km it has changed form,trash can,changed.Better with egr exhaust gas recirculation,sls.Piston pulls up oil to the top,small piston.On F1 cars.Watched bmw,or mercedes.Had gigant skirt.Others has zero skirt.Small pistons.I have many,to file off skirt and edges.
Thanks for all the effort in making these videos. I would also like to thank you for sharing what you have learned over the years. Otherwise the knowledge gets lost.
I definitely agree here! I myself is more on imports/honda stuff and i work on those but i realized once you "understand" then knowledge applies to every engine...and thank to Mr Vizard for taking the time in sharing here for all of us and it is still "wisdom" that we are getting
priceless at that
So you ready to fill some ports on that old squirrel motor?
@@bcbloc02 Fancy seeing you here Brian😁👍👍. I don't think Ill be filling ports any time soon. All this port work boggles my mind with all the counter intuitive stuff going on. Maybe one day 🤔
@@SteveSummers Yes lots more to filling cylinders than just how big the hole is. Most firewood haulers would benefit just as well from an LS swap. 🙂
David it is good to see you again even though it is through UA-cam and not in person. You and I used to chat quite a bit in the late 80s I worked at super shops on second Street in Riverside and even visited you at your house a couple of times back decades ago.
David, thank you for your sharing of very expensive knowledge, FOR FREE! Nearly unbelievable. You are a very generous man. Very anxious to see every new video, but especially this bbc stuff.
Never ending cycle of development, ( If that's not too big a word for it).
Tried port filling the Peugeot 1.9 205 gti head along with the In manifold attached. Initially it was worth 10-15 hp (My dyno was not the best) so approx 3hp per cylinder. The flow with the manifold fitted was a major disappointment, so over many attempts I floated in more and more resin until the cfm value dropped by nearly 1 unit over the non filled port.
It ended up with enough low/mid range torque that we went up 15 deg on cam duration gained 20ish BHP
from 6 - 8800 rpm and would still take full throttle in top gear from 2500 on 38mm chokes.
If only it had more cyliders🍻
Devcon aluminum filled engineering epoxies are excellent. I do not do heads, but have used it many times in industry to salvage damaged castings in pumps and such. Fantastic stuff. It's consistency is just a bit more liquid than the Goodson appears.
Your presentations are pure GOLD! Thank you for making them.
Yeah I was just researching devcon on some forums. Also a product called Splash Zone a-788. Guy asked how practical it was to use these products for a street driven car instead of race only.
Hey Big Moose - thanks for the tip here. This stuff looks like an excellent deal for intake manifold. Will research that. Got any starting advice???????
Hey Big Moose - me again. I forgot to say it is the Devcon I am interested in. The splash zone stuff looks to be the same as the Goodson stuff. DV
@@marvingvx1 David, the product I used was Devcon Aluminum filled epoxy Devcon part number for 1lb 10610, for 3 lbs part number 10620. To me it was a non sagging paste, mixed with a putty knife and applied with hard pressure. I used it to recover pumps. I did a pretty good job in preparation, thorough de greasing and bead blasted. I rebuilt scrolls and even bearing journals. As for the bearing areas, I remachined and installed new ball bearings. It is amazing how long many of these repairs lasted. Not cheap at around $70/lb, but to me, it's the best in the field. Hope this helps you some.
Growing up in the the late 70early 80s as little motor head I would read your tech books all the time ,thank you sir
Exactly what I've been waiting for, what gues to us, many Thanks Dave.
Thank you DV. I'm so much better engine builder because of you. You put me in the winner's circle. Very strange. My car number was. 50. 1999. August 7th. Old Dominion speedway.
What a great morning for me David.Thanks for sharing. Apple 🍏 Port boy from my Cortina days
Pure gold information.
Thank you, David! Awesome stuff!
Thanks for sharing. I don't think most people realize how much effort it takes to make a good UA-cam video. Even a bad one takes time and effort. This is one of your better videos David and thanks to all that helped you. God Bless!
Thanks for the information! I was pleasantly surprised to see this information. A few years back I prepped a set of heads myself for a project car. I filled the bottom of the ports and recontoured to roof almost exactly as you did. I did it without ever seeing of hearing of this, it just seemed to make sense to me at that time. I feel vindicated in my theory! I also moved the pushrod holes and filled the breach in the ports. And you are correct that JB weld does not work there! It softened and failed in this area. One thing I would advise against as well, do not use the JB "quick" in place of regular JB weld, it is not anywhere near as durable. Thanks again Mr. Vizard!
Robert,
Thanks for the JB weld tip.
DV
Pure gold. Thank you sir for sharing.
Thank you Mrs. DV, DV and yes once again Marvin . One day I will save enough to come to class.
You never fail to answer nearly all my questions. I'll be using this wisdom on my cleveland heads for, hopefully, more streetable power.
I don't have a flow bench, and if I don't build one, I'll just rattle around in the ports a bit until I feel satisfied that I've reproduced some of the characteristics that you've pointed out.
Would probably be effective on the 4v cleveland stuff that you can crawl into the intake port and take a nap. Lol
Was just gonna say that! It was a common practice for years until aftermarket heads became available.
There was a guy in Australia who use to sell "port plates" that basically filled the dead area. They bolted on with the manifold so never come loose.
@@michaelau5159 Hi. Do you have any link for that? Interested to see how they dit it, thanks.
I believe David said exactly that in a book he wrote in the past I don't remember which book, i.e. Gains from filling the port floor!
Thanks again for your time and effort in doing these informative episodes.
Thank You for Your Port Filling Video and explaining why it is beneficial.
Port Energy and Velocity is Up !
Useful NHRA Super Stock Racing like F.A.S.T. Classes and Street Racing like with a Pontiac V8 455 I Love.
Also Love SBC & BBC engines in a C4 Generation Corvette.
Thanks David. Great how to video along with some actual data really helps to see the benefits you’re presenting.
Have you ever filled the ports on a 351 Cleveland 4 barrel head? Those have such huge ports, just wondering if that would help
The was a company in Australia a while back that did port fillers/tongues for both exhaust and inlets on Cleveland 4v heads. I believe they were Parker performance products. The exhaust was sheet metal stainless that was held in by the header and the inlet was alloy.
I assume when filling a port as shown, you also have to do this on the intake manifold. Maybe I missed it but if not, that would be a big air damn to run into.
John, Yes - will be showing that in an upcoming video.
DV
Very good information as always Thanks
Looking at port area / valve area, both heads are pretty close IMO and the ports are far from small :) but I guess this is high rpm racing stuff.
Thank you for showing us the special custom driling prep and the grinding. I guess not to many would dare to do this.
Maybe more cubic inches than rpm related.
Outfreakinstanding David!!!!!
Port Velocity does work in a Pontiac V8 but need that CFM airflow for target Peak Hp baseline.
I’m sure you get this all the time. How long does the fill last and is there something to make it last longer? Do different fuels kill the filler also? I can’t believe how much time it took to learn all the stuff you know about this stuff. Thank you again DV
Alcohol will eat that stuff up immediately. They sometimes coat it with a clear sealer, but I'm not sure how long that lasts.
Richard, I have seen it still firml y attached to heads with 18 seasons of road tacing,
Great video, thank you for sharing your expertise!
Really well shown thank you David .to the chap asking about how high to raise the floor , the way i did it on a small engine , an a series ,was to put it on the flow bench , and add plasticine to the floor until the flow stopped going up , then i could play with the shape of it to get the best flow and sound from the port ...using my flow ball and cotton thread .
Robert, Your method of determining how much need to go on the port floor was right on the money. after the port floor ahs be raised to the point that no more flow is seen it is time to start on the area's a flow ball shows' are the busiest and slowly rework till the flow once again tops out.
DV
@@marvingvx1 thank you David . :)
Thank you David for answering my question.
Great video, very good info. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge. We appreciate it very much. ( I'm study the head of my 2004 Mini Cooper (not S) 1600 16v N.A. engine , the intake port is not bad in side view, but is very large at the area of bifurcation on bird eyes view, I'm thinking that it necessarily to fill it in that area.
David you would not show this video if you didn't think it could help. So yes Sir keep up the good work
Thank you David, cracking video as always keep them coming many thanks 👍 .
Mark from sunny Poole Dorset
Excellent material and knowledge Mr. David however it seems that the microphone audio is hard panned to the left of the stereo field.
Thank-you for excellent info as always! Would this be effective on Vortec heads with the hole in the intake runner from the rocker arm stud boss?
I had some canfield heads that had alot of work done they had epoxy in copper tubes in the intake ports and it was leaking when i vacuum checked it so I used jb weld after removing the old epoxy and never had a problem again
Yes. Even on a flat head Briggs an Stratton. . The intake has a very sharp turn . We filled that and make a better turn
For many reasons You've stated in the past, "I want to jump to the conclusion!?" That "USUALLY" You should use the largest intake valve that easily fits in a cylinder head And maximize it, For Low lift flow, Even if valve shrouding becomes increased, When "MAXIMIZING FAT FLOW"! (When using cams that only have .55" Or less lift.) PS. I'm not very eloquent. But You have Made me look great Many times when standing on your shoulders in the past, I.E. using your ideas, Applied to vehicles. Respectfully, Kurt
Hi David, have loved your stuff for many years, I would love to see you pick an engine and mock up the ideal cylinder head given the block design restrictions.
This video is just in time. Different style head, the ports in my old Harley ironhead Sportster are HUGE, much too big for a 30.5ci cylinder. I feel raising the floor to smooth the transition to the bowl will give quite an improvement in flow, we will see.
Great info. Would love to see these compared to the same heads treated to a "regular" (non-DV) port job.
David. i had a good low port head, car performed well, but not good enough. i set those heads on a shelf, and got some that could have a roof that is .200" higher off the deck, and could be .075" wider at the pushrod. I built a port that flowed awesome, with similar port area (just a tiny bit larger than the original heads) with the floor also raised a signficant amount. flow increased from 310 to about 340. it make great power on the dyno, 60hp more at 8600 over the old combo, but would not do well at the track unless it was driven extremely aggressively (really high launch rpm). it would BOG and lose .15 of a second if the launch wasnt where it needed to be. and even then, performance was no better than the original induction combo. i tried filling in the ports more, and a smaller cam. same result. i am STUMPED. Bogging usually means too low on velocity. but, is it possible the port is not BIG ENOUGH for having been raised so much? JUST A NOTE: the velocity on this port will exceed 330 fps at the higher lifts. might be too much, making the flow unusable.
Thank you david vizard performance. I want to use a set of reworked large heads on a small block chevy, converting them to street heads using a raised floor to reduce cc runner 'quantity' . They are raised runner race type heads. Using the same drill technique or not, have you ever poured molten aluminum to fill? Also Alfadan mahle collaboration engine is scheduled to come out in boats 2024, if all goes well, it could very well take over the industry, they made free valve technology for the huayara. It incorporates great features like gearless transmission through a multi range coned torque converter like device.
Another great video, thank you. I was wondering how you decided how high to raise the floor, and how would that translate to a small port stock SBF head? Is it to do with the amount of material removed at the roof?
Would love to know this as well. Have some SBF heads
I was thinking about doing this on my Blueprint HP9009 heads on my sbf 331. Thinking I needed more velocity on the 190cc intake ports, but I’m not sure.
At the 20 minute mark when talking port density and the sr20 head on the dyno I assume that the only reason the sr20 head beat yours on the dyno was because of the bigger valve and related area. If the sr20 head had the same size valves snd the curves were as shown here then likely yours would beat it on the dyno as predicted by the curves?
We have dyno's to establish these points!!!
🔔😎
Brilliant. You are absolutely brilliant!!!
thank you Sir 👍
More than ten years ago, some UA-camr named MOTOMAN was talking about the same thing, But he was using JB weld ...and now there are guys that are grinding little dimples only on the intake side ..What are your thoughts on the dimples David ?....and thank you so much for sharing sir 👍 👌
For when you want your heads set on KILL! It's like the nitrous button you can't turn off! Haha, loving it, these videos are awesome 😎👍, I have 2 maybe 3 sets of heads I'd like to do, one is a set of 210cc Doug Herbert. Chevy heads id like to set to kill! They are new 12 year old heads, and another similar set I'd like to do similar, and drill steam holes for a 400 block, I saw a 400 with 283 crank, I kinda like that, but I would want a 5-6speed behind it, so I'm thinking keep it a 406 , convert to 5.7 rods, a 406 with 10:1 mild cam with . 550" lift should be great for the street, maybe go 9:1, and turbo it! The kill set is on a 385, with 5140 crank and rods, forged zero decked pistons, and arp studs in the heads and 4bt mains! So it should handle the power!
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,I used jb weld to fill the bottom of Harley shovelhead ports [they are too big] ......on the blacktop dyno I felt a gain......Upon later disassembly I found the filler was mostly gone,,,,,burnt out and away ........................the Goodson stuff appears superior..........................thanks David.............
Thanks for sharing Mr. David, if you have the time it will be great and much appriciated if you made some special episodes on 4 valve cylinders heads like the mighty engines like B series Honda and 4G63 engines from mitsubishi.
And maybe touch the subject on the effects of raming air into NA manifolds via scoops at high car velocity, like circut/endurance racing are there any things to take in account.
Hi Remy. Think I can offer some amateur flowbench 4 valve stuff, but I consider its something to look before making engine swap for example OEM Honda. UA-cam offers a tool for sharing and also discussion how to approach different things like restrictions. I think you could take a look, because I even got the filler!
I approach scoops, throttle bodies and chambers like they are tested on the track and the meter for making decision witch way to go is, how that thing accelerates. Different story does the engine make more dyno HP. David Vizard Performance channel is teaching us even no 4 valve head in the studio.
There must be more "4 valve" guys ho could show how to do things and I would like to encourage them to do it. Cheers,
-juhana
David great channel
Thanks David
David any thoughts on PC products PC-7 for light port filling in an intake manifold? I did some research and found favorable comments on this epoxy. Price is good also! This would be used in your "light filling" application
Great videos. If I may, please check your audio editing as I only get sound from the left channel. Thanks !
Ill be doing this with my 7 port head for the A series. Currently it has 40mm ports and throttle bodies on a 1310. Way too big. Im thinking about going down to 30mm ports and throttle bodies in an effort to get the velocity up and hopefully see a decent torque improvement right through to 7500rpm
Remember hearing 1.6l head gave power gains on the 2.0l pinto that was so time back , was a mini man myself
As always, great content. I really need to get signed up for a class. I'm just a hobbiest, but, still great info.
My general impression of BBC heads is that rectangular port heads are big, inefficient ports while oval ports are efficient but small. The drag race engine doesn’t care about the inefficiency, just the top end power while the efficient oval port will do very well for a street engine (even a big one). Your work looks like you’re raising the rectangular port and adding bias, then reducing the cross-section to get back efficiency. Basically increasing size where the high velocity air lives and blocking out the low velocity/stagnant (relatively) areas. So, my question is, how much does this apply to a rectangular port LS head? Back-to-back tests by Richard Holdener show a 6.0 with rec port heads gains power throughout the curve when fitted with TFS 225s, a head with smaller ports and smaller intake valves. Flow numbers favor the TFS head even though both have more than enough to support the power level of the 6.0 at 6500 or so rpm. By inspection, the TFS port velocity and coefficient of discharge must be better, probably a lot, based on smaller port volume and smaller valves. Likewise, port energy must be up, too. So, can the rec port head be improved similarly to the BBC head? Great video, thanks!
Great question. Seems when discussing this stuff nobody brings up the different uses of the engine. A road race engine would probably benefit GREATLY from this, because they operate in areas where a drag race motor never does. I don't know why we are so focused on drag racing, the most expensive and shortest amount of seat time racing in existence.
2-5 minutes of circle track is more fun the 12-15 seconds of drag.
JMO😁😁😁
@@hotrodray6802 There is a difference in the engines that are successful there, which I guess is the point. I’m more of a strong street engine guy, drivable but fun level of power.
@HotRod Ray try 7 or 8 seconds.dont know what your driving that takes 15 seconds.lmfao
When figuring the idle air speed of the port and keeping it above 200fps so the fuel will not drop out do you factor this in or?
Would love to see the intake filling
So I've got a tiny 4v engine (1300cc that revs to a whopping 6500rpm) that has a port that's equivalent to a 42mm ID tube. It's a drainpipe feeding a drinking straw. (For those that care, it's a 2NZ Toyota, as found in the Echo/Yaris/Vitz family)
Engine Analyzer says that if I fill the port by 30% or so without losing much flow (I'd be tidying things up at the same time and doing a valve job, it's feasible to shrink the port without losing when you're starting from stock) and install the longer duration cams from a different engine in the same family I'd be up 5% in peak torque and nearly 20% in top end. Evidently the port is still too big (EA says the velocity is low) and it's only just starting to work.
So you think that the 1.5 is the same size? Is it to big?
@@augustoa.b.1412 I don't quite understand your question.
The 1.5 litre version of my engine is a little taller, but it fits. I just can't use it because of the rules around engine swaps. It has the same head casting and cams that are a bit longer duration. I'd use it if I thought I could get away with it though.
@@skippy2987 the question is, if the 1.5 it have big port to the little engine? sorry for my english
@@augustoa.b.1412 the 1.3 and 1.5 both have the same ports, and it's too big for both. If I had a 2.0 they would be nearly right.
The 2zr-fe we got in north america has the same problem. I pulled the intake manifold off mine and ran the numbers on it and velocity at peak power isnt even 300'/s. The intake tract is way too big for 130hp and the engine is really soft on the bottom. Is seems like it makes less than 100ftlbs until over 3000rpm
David, the knowledge you are sharing is amazing. Have you considered partnering with one of the aftermarket head manufacturers to make "VizardHP" castings? They could potentially scan your optimized designs and change the sand pieces that form the castings. Brodix and TrickFlow come to mind.
Didn't Professor Vizard do something like that with the major camshaft grinders? Even with proof, Professor Vizard's advice is regarded with suspicion among these cam companies. That said, I would love to see and own a Vizard developed aftermarket cylinder head.
Is this the same as "splash zone"? It look identical.
Thank you sir.
Very interesting vidio!
....JB Weld is impressive. Kwik weld was disappointing
The best filler I have seen is that Splash Zone 788 , i's literally meant to fill the erosion in the giant pump bodies in hydro power stations
Chuck, I think that is the same stuff!
Should I get a set of AFR 195 cylinder heads for a 385 stroker I am working on, or fill the AFR 227's my customer already has?
SELL THE 227 AND BUY THE 195
I think it depends on camshaft and purpose. I would be really reluctant to fill a port on a customers build if you dont know enough you have to ask. On a 385 with more than 0.550 lift the 227s will make more power from 2500rpm. They just will. How do you think your customer will react when you want to bill them for 40hrs so they have 10-20ftlbs more at 4000rpm?
The smaller heads will have better transient response and probably a little better fuel economy driving around town but unless you are on a 1/3 mile oval the response might not be noticeable. Dont forget that Ls3 engines are 376ci and have 260cc intake ports.
Awesome video!
Very interesting
So let's see if I understand this correctly. It's not about the highest number of hp, but the area in which it's used with the least amount of dropoff🤔? 🤷♀️
Thank you David ! You should be named the wizard! Lol.
Should we fill also manifold? Or leave it with a step?
fill, upcoming video
fill the intake manifold to match.
@@DavidVizard thank You Sir, that's what I thought I should do.
Weird looking ports!
Is there a vid on the transition to the short turn ?
I wish I had gotten unto head shaking and testing 29 years ago, I remember heated online debates on my chosen cars forums because nobody seemed to be able to break 200whp N/A on our 2.5L 4 valve engines. I tried to discuss the idea of testing the heads from the 1.8L variant and everyone to a T insisted that bigger ports and valves are always better and going down in size anywhere was foolish.
I am thinking this would be great on a smallblock 318 Mopar engine using the 360 heads with the bigger ports for mild applications I think the ports are to big for a mild 318. Anyone out there think I am on the right track with this thinking?
Are there seminars this year 2022
So the motoman Pat McGivern was right on these smaller Ports. Best wishes.
Did you use the epoxy all the way down to the short side radius?
My question is under boost is this worth it with the port job you did without the filling in and stopped there air pushing/rushing in may take advantage of the whole port boost creating more velocity
This is only critical if the boost is limited as were the Indy engines in the past.
Also what was the before and after for the head? You showed a different head for comparison
Yes, I showed a head that is far better than a typical 24 degree one. The one shown is the SR20 20 degree big valve (2.4 inch diameter) Brodix head.
DV
Who sells a head with these modifications already cast in?
well it is out the the shop and tear down the lawn mower for some practice port work. ..
Ah mmm - ??????
@@marvingvx1 I am on a farm with access to a lot of small engines, so I practice on the 1-2 cylinder engines. It is quick, cheap. and easy to do and only have 1 or 2 cylinders to do so not trying to match 6-8 cylinders to each other. And if I mess up it is not a big deal. I can then tackle the "real" motors with more insight and some skill and confidence. And Thank you for these videos I have gained a lot of understanding of what it means to do this type of modifications. It is not just H.P. (HOG and Polish) but a real science.
David these videos are friggin awesome but your volume is way too low thanks
How much of this works in a smaller scale, say a single cylinder 50cc to 450cc?
Or is it just experiment and buy two heads and do one with bigger ports and the other one with port fillings
This channel is dead for now, find his other channel here: www.youtube.com/@DavidVizard
👍💪
WOW! That is some thick filler material!
Anybody else experience no audio in this video? The music is there but no DV commentary.
David you need to compare these heads to the CID BBC head.
First love the videos
David, As we assume the men that design engines are quite clever, Why do you believe they haven't made intake ports optimum. Why do we need to fill some ports ?.. May it be as simple as saving cast iron ? while sacrificing some power
This channel is dead for now, find his other channel here: www.youtube.com/@DavidVizard
Aren't you losing cylinder CFM flow because the powers are smaller?
If you mean 'powers' I don't know what you are referring to - but if you meant 'ports' no. Remember we now have a much higher flow efficiency.
DV
Would there be any benefits on a turbocharged engine?
Mr. Budget - yes.
@@marvingvx1 thanks and thank you for your fast response. Great work lovely to see something iv never seen before. Iv slightly ported and smoothed my head and been told to dimple it. Hope to see more from you iv only just come across your work. Cheers
Watching people fill the bottom of the ports makes me wonder what Gm was doing when they designed the Peanut port heads for the Mark4 big block. The whole port is the bottom.
pintos are as rare as hens teeth here in the uk unless you have deep pockets! cheers.
Troy, - but there must be million or so in Cortina's!!
DV
@@marvingvx1 i honestly dont see many if any cortinas about mate.
i love the sound of them getting on song with a set of 40's / 45's gurgling away!!
cheers.
Matt kneen and I were talking about this before he died
i prefer to just have it welded
Yeah, a $50 epoxy kit vs. $2k in welding. How about just getting the right heads to begin with? Always that one guy
@@superkillr you are correct. i have since learned to use PC7 quite well.
An another,from 1 cylinder.Use a smaller piston.Runs easier.Heat cause size difference,and it gets "stucked".After ++1000km it has changed form,trash can,changed.Better with egr exhaust gas recirculation,sls.Piston pulls up oil to the top,small piston.On F1 cars.Watched bmw,or mercedes.Had gigant skirt.Others has zero skirt.Small pistons.I have many,to file off skirt and edges.
WTF are you even saying? Did you just randomly put those words up there?
Superkilr
dont be a rude jerk to someone who has english for a secondary language.
I got everything he says.
all that effort!!! not worth it for 5-10hp? port it.. bigger cam or higher CR..
Jay, where did you get this 5 or 10 hp from. That's not even close . Watch the video again! DV
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