Thanks for the very easy to follow video. Using the manual is a good reference but being able to see it being done live so to speak just makes it so much easier. Cheers...
Looked at the underside of cover, yes found a couple of scratches. Not much though. So I checked with my flexible magnet and flashlight. No sign of it. Did a oil change the prior day and added springs and new clutch . Oil looked fine,no metal of any kind. Guess I have to start dismantling fro the top down. Thanks. Again for your helpful vid.
Just took my covers off. And noticed that one adjustment nut was missing on the exhaust side. Can’t seem to to see it anywhere. Would it not have hit and scratched up the cover as it came off. What would you suggest I do. This top end looks to have been off at some point before I bought it. It ran okay. Just thought it needed a valve adjustment. Great vid. Thanks.
Triple H wow! That’s kinda scary to begin with but I’d do some real investigating with a magnet and maybe a tiny scope camera to be sure it’s not lodged somewhere in there. I can’t believe someone would forget to install it so I would think it came off. But, if it did come off, it would typically do some real damage unless it just lodged somewhere right away. Good luck
Now that I’ve thought it through, I think you’re right though, if the nut came off it would definitely hit that cover! No damage on cover may be a clue that it wasn’t installed.
So is it windy exhaust side goes down and comes back up that that's going to be top dead center or is it the intake side when it goes down and then comes back up that would be top dead center you failed them promise on the most important part of finding top dead center on the compression stroke
It’s been a few years but I recall verifying this too which I believe is when both valves are closed, right after the intake valve closes and the exhaust valve is still closed but will open next. Basically after fuel has been dumped into the cylinder and the piston is top dead center ready to fire which sends the piston down and opens the exhaust valve next. Again, it’s something you should look up and verify to be sure. Thanks
Hey buddy. I’ve recently noticed my 700xx blowing a little bit of smoke when I rev it up. Doesn’t do it at idle. Could valves not being adjusted correctly cause smoke?
Hi Loren, I’ve owned a lot of quads and none of them smoked. I did have a KRX 450 that burned oil and you could smell it in the exhaust, but never smoked. Unfortunately, I feel like adjusting the valves is not a solution for smoke or oil burning (which to me is typically the cause of smoking). It’s typically a ring issue, meaning excessive wear causing oil to pass by the rings under high pressure and being burned in combustion. Now head gaskets can also leak antifreeze into the combustion chamber causing “white” smoke and a sweet smell in the exhaust. Either one means a tear down and inspection of the top end at a minimum. Valve adjustment simply helps the machine run better with more precise intake and exhaust cycles, easier starting and better performance.
Typically on these regular performance four strokes it only needs to be done every few years with regular use. If you’re modifying it for higher performance, which equals more heat, higher wear or using it more than regular use, I’d recommend checking and adjusting annually. Most guys will never check them unless it starts hard or makes excessive noise at idle…and most of them would take it to a shop anyway. I’m extremely picky about preventive maintenance since I don’t like splitting cases.
@@snowrulesnate definitely, thanks for the reply, I bought a 700xx for myself … maybe abit silly as a first time quad rider, I bought my kids the trx90 and Suzuki lta50, now I’m addicted to watching rebuild videos as I want to get into the engineering side with my daughter. I shall be trying doing this on my 700 Thanks so much
If I adjust the valves like this videos says and do it while the engine is top dead center...? Will I have to worry about the compression stroke or exhaust stroke??
Michael Mills correct, you adjust it at TDC. It will be the tightest gap point when you are rotating the crank manually. That’s how I could tell I was on the correct stroke anyway.
Michael Mills start by doing your best to find TDC. Then go to your intake valves and see what the gap is. If it seems like a huge gap, try rotating your crank another revolution until you see the TDC mark again, then recheck the gap. If the gap on your intake valves is tighter, you probably were not at TDC the first attempt but are now on TDC and can adjust your valves from there...repeat for the exhaust side too.
Sorry for the delay! I had a full DMC exhaust with an FMF tuner. It definitely added a lot of noticeable power but I had trouble keeping the heat it made under control. I wrapped the header pipe with heat tape, tried increasing fuel on programmer but on really hot rides in the dunes it would go into a limp mode under WOT. I would recommend a Power Commander tuner in the future and spending a few hundred to have a reliable dyno shop verify mapping. This makes the heat issues and risk of meltdown very minimal so you can really run hard without ruining your machine. I ended up selling the 700 and buying a new RZR XP4T. Miss riding wheelies though!
Ryan Bierschwale it is, I simply was stating it looks like an” F due to the angle of the view. The line is the TDC mark anyway so you’ll be fine no matter what you think it looks like...lol. Again, I’m no mechanic, just a registered nurse actually, trying to describe things in terms people can understand. Hopefully it helps a few people as these are rare machines. Do you have a 700xx?
@@snowrulesnate i know this is old, but that was and "F" for fire. You should be adjusting at the "T" for top dead center. The F is where the coil fires.
Thanks for the very easy to follow video. Using the manual is a good reference but being able to see it being done live so to speak just makes it so much easier. Cheers...
Great video! There are not many videos on the 700xx.
Looked at the underside of cover, yes found a couple of scratches. Not much though. So I checked with my flexible magnet and flashlight. No sign of it. Did a oil change the prior day and added springs and new clutch . Oil looked fine,no metal of any kind. Guess I have to start dismantling fro the top down. Thanks. Again for your helpful vid.
When the valves are out of adjustment will the bike use more oil?
Awesome video
Just took my covers off. And noticed that one adjustment nut was missing on the exhaust side. Can’t seem to to see it anywhere. Would it not have hit and scratched up the cover as it came off. What would you suggest I do. This top end looks to have been off at some point before I bought it. It ran okay. Just thought it needed a valve adjustment. Great vid. Thanks.
Triple H wow! That’s kinda scary to begin with but I’d do some real investigating with a magnet and maybe a tiny scope camera to be sure it’s not lodged somewhere in there. I can’t believe someone would forget to install it so I would think it came off. But, if it did come off, it would typically do some real damage unless it just lodged somewhere right away. Good luck
Now that I’ve thought it through, I think you’re right though, if the nut came off it would definitely hit that cover! No damage on cover may be a clue that it wasn’t installed.
So is it windy exhaust side goes down and comes back up that that's going to be top dead center or is it the intake side when it goes down and then comes back up that would be top dead center you failed them promise on the most important part of finding top dead center on the compression stroke
It’s been a few years but I recall verifying this too which I believe is when both valves are closed, right after the intake valve closes and the exhaust valve is still closed but will open next. Basically after fuel has been dumped into the cylinder and the piston is top dead center ready to fire which sends the piston down and opens the exhaust valve next. Again, it’s something you should look up and verify to be sure. Thanks
Hey buddy. I’ve recently noticed my 700xx blowing a little bit of smoke when I rev it up. Doesn’t do it at idle. Could valves not being adjusted correctly cause smoke?
Hi Loren, I’ve owned a lot of quads and none of them smoked. I did have a KRX 450 that burned oil and you could smell it in the exhaust, but never smoked. Unfortunately, I feel like adjusting the valves is not a solution for smoke or oil burning (which to me is typically the cause of smoking). It’s typically a ring issue, meaning excessive wear causing oil to pass by the rings under high pressure and being burned in combustion. Now head gaskets can also leak antifreeze into the combustion chamber causing “white” smoke and a sweet smell in the exhaust. Either one means a tear down and inspection of the top end at a minimum. Valve adjustment simply helps the machine run better with more precise intake and exhaust cycles, easier starting and better performance.
How often should you do this?
Typically on these regular performance four strokes it only needs to be done every few years with regular use. If you’re modifying it for higher performance, which equals more heat, higher wear or using it more than regular use, I’d recommend checking and adjusting annually. Most guys will never check them unless it starts hard or makes excessive noise at idle…and most of them would take it to a shop anyway. I’m extremely picky about preventive maintenance since I don’t like splitting cases.
@@snowrulesnate definitely, thanks for the reply, I bought a 700xx for myself … maybe abit silly as a first time quad rider, I bought my kids the trx90 and Suzuki lta50, now I’m addicted to watching rebuild videos as I want to get into the engineering side with my daughter.
I shall be trying doing this on my 700
Thanks so much
If I adjust the valves like this videos says and do it while the engine is top dead center...? Will I have to worry about the compression stroke or exhaust stroke??
Michael Mills correct, you adjust it at TDC. It will be the tightest gap point when you are rotating the crank manually. That’s how I could tell I was on the correct stroke anyway.
snowrulesnate what is the tightest gap point exactly?
Michael Mills start by doing your best to find TDC. Then go to your intake valves and see what the gap is. If it seems like a huge gap, try rotating your crank another revolution until you see the TDC mark again, then recheck the gap. If the gap on your intake valves is tighter, you probably were not at TDC the first attempt but are now on TDC and can adjust your valves from there...repeat for the exhaust side too.
@@snowrulesnate thanks so much man i appreciate it
Did you do any disassembling? Plastics, Tank, e.t.c
Alex Cherneta yes, those items must be removed prior to accessing the head. Sorry for the delay in response.
what are your mods and settings on your tuner?
Sorry for the delay! I had a full DMC exhaust with an FMF tuner. It definitely added a lot of noticeable power but I had trouble keeping the heat it made under control. I wrapped the header pipe with heat tape, tried increasing fuel on programmer but on really hot rides in the dunes it would go into a limp mode under WOT. I would recommend a Power Commander tuner in the future and spending a few hundred to have a reliable dyno shop verify mapping. This makes the heat issues and risk of meltdown very minimal so you can really run hard without ruining your machine. I ended up selling the 700 and buying a new RZR XP4T. Miss riding wheelies though!
The service manual says the T mark is top dead center. Why use the F
Ryan Bierschwale it is, I simply was stating it looks like an” F due to the angle of the view. The line is the TDC mark anyway so you’ll be fine no matter what you think it looks like...lol. Again, I’m no mechanic, just a registered nurse actually, trying to describe things in terms people can understand. Hopefully it helps a few people as these are rare machines. Do you have a 700xx?
@@snowrulesnate i know this is old, but that was and "F" for fire. You should be adjusting at the "T" for top dead center. The F is where the coil fires.