This will make you ☠️☠️☠️ | Parts Cannon! Nissan Altima 2.5 P0340 Camshaft
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- Опубліковано 17 вер 2024
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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to
Ray's Common Sense explanation of why you don't pull out in front of trucks makes me as a trucker happy. He is 100% correct: You do this and get hit, prepare to see God.
Happens way too often
80,000 Pounds does not stop quickly. And your 3000 lb civic is gonna fold up like a coke can.
Better safe than stupid.
My dad has done road work for his whole life, when he was a twenty-something he was pulling a dump truck out of a work site when some poor lady piled into him doing like 90 and *extremely* killed herself.
Physics are real. Do not tempt them.
@@kellismith4329 The law of the Laws of Physics: You don't "break the law" - the law breaks YOU!
@@bragnonymous While I agree, at least with modern Civics, you are likely to come out of it alive, if not in a boat load of hurt in the physical realm, thanks to modern tech. However, older Civics of the 70's through 1990's, not so much.
"Nissan, The Chrysler of Japan!" had me rolling.
I’ll bet the owner is grateful that it was only a sensor and not the timing belt. Great job Ray, way to look out for your customer.
I had to replace a crankshaft position sensor.. On my 2004 Altima. .. Was one of the hardest jobs I have done..... And I even managed to skip a very major labor-intensive step..by not removing the timing belt.. Did some wire splicing and saved 6 hours book time... Not fun
@deepsquat600 isn't the 2.5L in that car a qr25de? Iirc that would be a timing chain and not a belt.
@@bleach_drink_me mine was a 2004 and it's a 4-cylinder
.. perhaps that's the difference Whitehead a timing belt..
Anyway you look at it laying on your back in the rain had an apartment complex where you can't make it look like you're doing work.. in the Seattle area where it rains all the time I kept having a buckle things up and quit the job because of rain.. anyway the way I cheated the system was to cut the wires were they run over the valve cover as part of a loom..I fished the wires behind the timing belt and tried them as you are supposed to.. But first had to cut the connector..I soldered then back together.. And used great shrink and the take to separate each wire.. Later to I got rid of the car.. And yes I did show to the next guy..
You packed A LOT of information into a minimum (visual) bit of service work !! That's why we watch - we love learning. 🙂🏆
A lot of code reading, glad you solved the issue. But I was disappointed, no oil change.😮
Actually, he started at the least expensive, knowing full well it was 50/50 that it would work. He hit honey under the first rock.
@@mountainman5025 The scanner did all the diagnostic heavy lifting he only changed the part which any compentant mechanic would do. He is not anything special.
Well done Ray. Yeah for the price of the part and the installation it only makes sense to change it. I'm sure the customer is going to be happy to know he's got a bill for a hundred or so rather than thousands to pull the engine apart to SEE if it had a problem.
ESPECIALLY in Florida rain like that. I drive a 10-wheeler box truck, and there are times where I simply will not be able to get stopped fast enough to compensate for you pulling out in front of me when you shouldn't.
a lot of people dont understand how much it takes to stop that much weight
I used to drive a 10,000 lbs box truck and people in chicago in the winter believe you should be able to stop on a dime...
Drove truck for a long time and I can tell you the only dime it will stop on is the one in your pocket
I agree. People who's doing that must have some kind of deathwish.
People have a death wish when they pull out on a semi truck I don’t do it because I have common sense
You just surprised me when you mentioned that you do not have a lab scope. I can't think of a more important tool when it comes to vehicle electrical systems. AES Wave is the bog standard as far as I'm concerned. Does anyone else have an opinion on this?
Who else thinks Ray should be checking square waves when diagnosing electrical?
Ray, had a 2006 Altima had the same problem, it was told by the Nissan mechanics that if you don't use OEM, and you don't replace both the camshaft, and the crank sensor at the same time there can be issues. I tried an aftermarket at one point and realized they weren't lying.
Best community service video opening ever!
We live in a time where that actually needs to be said SMH
@@RainmanRaysRepairs it's amazing how many people dont realize how hard it is to stop more weight
I love watching your thought process during diagnosis. Evaluating the limitations in your data and your available tools and using experiments, observation, logic and sense to zone in on the right answer.
Great video. I have an '06 Altima with 160000+ mi., the crank position sensor failed. Similar symptom, long crank to start. Replacing that is not a fun job, it requires the old Eric O. "reach around" the back side of the bell housing down low where you can't see it in order to get it out. Only problem was the OE replacement sensor was a few thou too big and wouldn't fit in the hole, so I ended up swapping the crank position sensor with the cam position sensor (since they are same part), and put the new unit in the cam position sensor hole instead. Started right up!
As I was watching this video and Ray said Satellites linking up, this popped into my mind. Starting Mechanic"s log, Earth date Thrusday June 1 , 2023 , as we begin this adventure and journey through the world of automotive repairs today . We first explore the 2005 Nissan Altima and the issues affecting the car. As we dive into trouble shooting and diagnostic testing we have come to find the following data from scanning the ecm. Sit back an relax as I rack my brain with the issues affecting the car.
You nailed the problem as when the old unit was in there was a long crank.When you started with the new sensor short crank and no light.Experience counts in diagnosis of problems.Keep these informative and comedic vids comming.
Well, the initial trouble code was a good hint, even though he physically checked the connector and harness
Cam shaft position senors are a common problem in nissans. The frontier community raves about replacing them all the time. But its true i had to replace mine on my frontier.
Tip
If you don't want to do the ĵob twice get the parts from Nissan. The aftermarket parts will work for a little bit but stop working.
When changing the camshaft sensor also change the crank sensor.
I spoke with Nissan and they told me anything electronical get from Nissan because it's very touchy and doesn't like aftermarket parts.
Speaking from personal experience with owning a 2005 Nissan Altima. The parts were about twice as much as the parts stores but worth it knowing you only have to do the job once and won't be stranded somewhere.
I'm a DIY home mechanic. UA-cam has a lot of videos on how to work on cars. Most stuff is simple that you can do at home with basic tools.
I remember the 70's Datsun that Pat had low mileage first year was 6 months at dealer awaiting parts and repairs picked up at lunch returned to work left a trail of fluid the whole way.
door alarm same annoying sound as my alarm clock
As a truck driver, thank you!! This happens so many times. Hence a lot of the trucking companies pitting cameras in their trucks.
My wife has a 2005 maxima and went through the whole cmp failures. Her car has 2, (b1&b2), and for some reason they have different connectors and one is $30 more expensive than the other. The only difference is the connector side of the sensor. Instead of buying the one that was $30 more, I went to the junkyard and got a connector for the cheaper bank, spliced it in, and bought the cheaper sensor. Going on 4 years now and no issues with either sensor. I'm proud to say, I outsmarted Nissan and saved $30.
thankyou Ray,what a nice result for you getting this sorted early and hassle free,,see you in tomorrows upload,,👍👍
Thanks for these videos, Ray. Aside from seeing how so many repairs on so many different cars are done, I grew up in Sarasota and I enjoy seeing your test drives around the area.
I think many people don't know that most modern cars turn the A/C on when you hit the defrost mode, to remove moisture. I see SO MANY people driving around in rainy weather with fogged up windows.
I have found that usually the chain is not what goes bad but the plastic guides deteriorate to the point that it creates play in the chain and then the chain jumps
I really enjoy your videos and thank you for taking the time to make them. There's something very therapeutic about sitting in my comfortable chair and watching someone fix something in such detail.
Thanks for the public service announcement about trucks. Been driving a semi for 26 years now. We look slower but actually we're not. It takes 1 second per 10 feet of vehicle to stop. Which is approximately 7 seconds to stop at 80,000.. please leave space. I know it won't change for us but i dont want to look at someone's loved one and tell them im sorry. Alot of us are running dash cams now because people hit us and brake check us for fraudulent insurance claims now. Please be safe, in adverse weather this all increases. Prayers.. dp_trucking
A replacement kit from Nissan is available to replace both Cam and Crank sensors as they were on a recall notice. Metal barrel body is the correct upgrade on the sensor.
"Don't pull out in front of truck, they will run you over and you will be flat" 🤣🤣🤣 Now that sir had me rolling 👊 Nice shot with the parts cannon 👍
With Ray... it's more like a parts rifle
I was watching Eric O.'s video the other day when he broke out his hand held oscilloscope and thought, "I've never seen Ray use something like that. It looks really useful."
Then you, immediately, get a car where the diag requires one.
Interesting universe we live in.
Isn’t it?
@@RainmanRaysRepairs It is, but a firing a sensor in is cheaper than an aeswave.
@@aderi31415 not in the long run. Learn to use your scope proficiently . You'll thank me later!
@@mod_incllc3235 i got my 4 channel lab scope 2 years ago. Changed the whole game of diag.
Better lucky than good seems to work here. It’s a circuit code as stated in the service info. Going after internal engine as a problem is not the way to go. You don’t need a lab scope to diagnose these, it’s a simple Hall effect sensor. Power,ground and signal. Check the power and then voltage drop the ground side. You can use your DVOM if you don’t have a graphing meter like a vantage or such. Set your DVOM to duty cycle and back probe the signal. If it is switching voltage it will show a duty cycle. Not the best test but it can show you if the sensor is switching. Just not how well it’s switching but if it shows 0 duty cycle at least you know it’s not sending any signal. Of course you can ohm the sensor to check for open. Aeswave sells a great little 1 channel uscope that works great and can aid in lots of these sensor diagnostics. I thought you had a SnapOn vantage or some other graphing multi meter. Simple Hall effect sensor diagnostics and as it is a circuit code and code description tells you it’s a open or shorted circuit and didn’t mention anything about internal engine wear or anything you need to go after circuit faults, even if it jumped timing the sensor would send a signal and not set a circuit code it would set a correlation code.
As a truck driver... Thank you Ray for saying that.
Might be time Ray to upgrade your scanner, a lot has changed in 3 years and newer units may have more pids. Nice call on the sensor..
Expensive upgrade
Love the channel keep uo the great work Ray 🇬🇧
There are pretty great combo multimeter scopes to be had in the $100 range. Many are 10 to 20Mhz, more than enough for most auto diag work. Scopes are like thermal and bore cameras. They are not needed too often, and are big time savers when their turn comes up.
South Main Auto just showed a nice one. Also EEVBlog reviewed one a few weeks back.
@@tschuuuls486 Maybe Eric will recommend a good one to Ray. :P
Aeswave Uscope is only $200 and is a great single channel scope, however a scope really isn’t needed to diagnose this. Hall effect is 3 wires. Power, ground and signal. Use DVOM to read power and voltage drop the ground and then you can use duty cycle setting on signal wire to see if it is sending a signal. Sensor sends a signal that is either 0 volts or signal volts, usually 5 volts. If it is switching from 0 to whatever signal voltage is it will show a duty cycle reading. Simple circuit that my students learned in the first part of electrical class.
Sounds like you should get a scope. Eric O has one that is pretty reasonably priced, it's like 4 inches square.
He seems to have pico scope (around $100) and uscope (around $200).
Pico is a bit more than $100 and you need a laptop to use it, uscope is standalone and very useful and well worth the money as long as you don’t need more than 1 channel.
That Cam shaft sensor is a very common failure Good video @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Also much appreciated the truck knowledge. Stopping 80 thousand pounds isn’t so easy.
Really appreciate the short break to educate people on trucks. So many cars almost get flattened by me each day, and it seems to be getting worse all the time.
Smart fix for the customer and I like the public service announcement as well.
Glad you took the weekend off with your family and yourself
I use to be a technician (now retired). There was a workshop slogan: "If In Doubt, Chuck It Out" it generally saved the customer a heap of money.
In our shop it was "When in doubt, charge double so if it comes back the labor is covered on the next cannon blast."
Reminds me of when I lived in Orange Park & Jacksonville, every afternoon in the summer it rained and you could almost set your watch to it. Every afternoon around 1500/1530 it would rain for about 15-20 minutes and that would be it until the following day, provided of course, there was no hurricane or storm system causing the aforementioned rain. You could take a shower, get dressed, and walk to the mailbox to get your mail, and then you’d need another shower because you’re COMPLETELY SOAKED from the humidity outside. Couldn’t pay me to live in FL outside of “winter” and it’s still hot some days lol but good stuff brother, appreciate’chya!!
God bless~
I love the priceless advice right at the beginning of this video 😂. Go get em Ray!
Ray for future reference, I have seen a failing /intermittent fuel pump throw the cam and crank codes. I have built several of these engines and they are a great engine as long as they dont get overheated. The lifters are not hydraulic and specific clearance for each valve which makes them very expensive to do a valve job on. It costs almost as much for lifters as the whole head from the dealer.
Bc you never do a valve job. There's no such thing. It has buckets. It all lasts the life of the engine even if it's 500k mi. You will smash a bucket if you run it out of oil.
@@TheGuruStud They wear just like any engine and create excessive valve lash. The only difference is you have to replace them with the proper size upon reassembly to correct the valve lash.
I have a Nissan versa that had a crankshaft position sensor problem due to a plugged catalytic converter! Hear me out. Because of the plugged catalytic converter the back pressure caused the flex joint to pop open while under load and the exhaust blew directly onto the crankshaft position sensor and melted the wiring. So keep these things in mind… I realize you’re dealing with the camshaft sensor, but it’s good to keep in mind one problem can cause another. I know you know this Ray, but for other people I figured it was worthwhile to mention.
cam sensor on an altima is a common issue. only 15 bucks at autozone. so is the transmission shift solenoids if you notice hard shifting
you could use the Hz setting on your meter to test the sensor it will give numbers in relation to cam speed same as to test abs sensors hope this helps
I don't think Ray can grasp what hertz is. Because if he could, he would of by now. I've rarely seen a multimeter or test light on this channel.
good day to you Ray another great video Ray but the most important thing is to have yourself a great day
Retired veteran 35 year concrete truck driver here. A lot of close calls over the years when it came to 4 wheeler shanigans.
the old sensor is a potted sensor (plastic housings,these have wicking issues) while the new one is a sealed sensor (steal can housings,these do not have wicking issues)
but both are magnetic proximity sensors
and the name for that is " Hall Effect ", you are right on
Round Cam Position and Crank Position sensor is made by Hitachi and is the improved version over the original plastic Hall sensor.
awesome diagnostic! enjoy learning teach!
Looks like the parts cannon hit its target. Yet another perfect trouble shoot and repair. Thank you Ray. 😊
Great video. TY
Anyone who has spent a lot of time troubleshooting is going to understand that there are times when a SWAG is all a guy has.
I got a P0014 code today on my check engine light. Which meant the timing on my camshaft bank 1 was off. I found out that sometimes, if the oil is low or dirty, it will cause that bank sensor to trip. I took my car to the shop and got the oil changed and it actually worked! The light went off and has stayed off! I went from looking at a $1,400 repair, to a $100 oil change!
Big Altima Energy 😊
Common failure on that generation Altima with the qr25 engine, the oe sensors would actually allow oil to come through them into the connector same with the crank position, there was actually a tsp and a recall through Nissan for the cam and crank position sensors are long time ago for this problem I would stick a cam and a crank position sensor in it clear the codes out reset the adapters and see what happened that will more than likely fix the issue also check the oil level and the condition common failure to Esports Bree for lack of oil changes to clog up the VCT solenoid but usually when that happens you'll have a cam crank position correlation code
You should get a lab scope becuse it will set you above other shops. Becuse few shops do that type of testing, its its really nessary.
Good morning Ray. Mini part cannon fired to hope to prevent a major part cannon that may not be needed. Great diagnostic skill shown again.
Bright sunshine day. Boy that cloud in front of your shop was dark and low.
It probably wouldn't be a mechanical issue. The engines i work on have sensors that work at 5v but sense between 0.5v and 4.5v. so a short or open is outside this range, a mechanical fault would be within this range so should give a separate trouble code. Hope that makes sense.
Nice video Ray. West coast Florida rain can be brutal at times. A friend wrecked a "worthless" 70's Corvette in a storm. Once, I was the only car on a highway because everyone else was pulled over on the shoulder!!!
I love driving in the rain.
I've always heard Floridians refer that liquid falling from the sky as "liquid sunshine". But all the plants love it.
Had a Datsun B210. When you started it cold it would whine up to like 6000 rpm’s or more for a few minutes then tap the pedal and it would drop down to nothing and was super quiet. No ticking or knocking. I always thought it would throw a rod. It never did.
My friend had similar vehicle, bought used from dealer. Dealer fixed similar problem of stalling after refuel. They told him it was rollover valve. Probably same component as you are suspecting. On a side note I just bought a 2007 ram 1500 big horn editor. Seller stated truck stalls once or twice when refueled. I can't vouch yet. Just bought for local hauling use. He avoided filling above 7/8ths.
so yesterday i did something probably ill advised but actually worked out well, i checked my maf sensor, saw one of the wires was all carboned up, tried spraying it clean with maf cleaner but it was baked on, so i ever so gently used a knife to scrape off the carbon off the wire lol i know its probably not the best thing to do but it runs heaps better now haha, i only did it cause i was having trouble finding an identical replacement :/
As a truck driver i appreciate your PSA. I swear some people have a death wish.
Nissan, the Chrysler of Japan.
Nailed it. Perfectly accurate.
I had a similar situation with a CEL showing high fuel pressure on my Volvo. After doing some online research, the sensor was the most likely culprit. I had two options, a Bosch branded sensor for $32, or a "genuine Volvo" replacement in a factory box for $132, which was the exact same part. So, I loaded the parts cannon and gave it a shot. It worked! An extra bonus was a more consistent idle speed. Win!!!
"don't pull in front of trucks". EXCELLENT advice!!
Hi Ray
For comparison sake, I would’ve checked the length of the sensor body. Just to see since if there is a length change to compensate for possible camshaft endplay.
Ray you always use common sense. That is why you save people money and you make yours also. Another great video thank you Ray.
Oh boy we got some BAE in the shop today!! Big Altima Energy!
P0340 - been there before. That's a fun one, 2010 Frontier would just shut down while driving. At least this is a front wheel drive. That sensor is between the engine and the firewall on the RWD. Oh and they changed the sensor to the round instead of flat because the flats had a high failure rate.
I'm happy to see that you diagnosed the issue, and it worked out. The 2.5 can be expensive in any large repairs, including a water pump.
Be safe, team (:
Nope
Outstanding work Ray ! This information is valuable to all that you provide! Priceless!
Hey ray can’t specify enough that I appreciate u saying that about trucks I live in Boston , I drive a truck and people do the most rediculas things when I am on the road
Another great fix. Good job Ray. Wish you could send some of the rain to South Texas.
Ray is getting that non-hurricane rain.
I think your D8 Scan tool has a built in Lab scope if you have the right probes. You can also bring up visual graphs of the PIDS which record as they go. Much safer than constantly watching the data as you drive.
where would we be without these readers well many years ago we did not need them thanks for the video
Thanks for taking us for a rainy ride.
Nissan issued an advisory a number years ago that would apply to almost all of their unibody type vehicles, once you read the advisory and get a mental picture of the overall problem you realize that it could apply to almost any electrical problem that may occur on Modern cars.
The gist of the problem is these cars are either completely painted or dipped and then the wiring is bolted to the car with self tapping screws that do not make a good ground The Advisory was specific to cam sensor modules and how to take the self tapping ground screws off and create a better ground connection.
that altima is so well cared for... i bought mine used, same as this one and it is fucked up, slowly repairing it until it doesnt exude big altima energy
A lot of info in a short video easily explained...always a good thing:-) Be careful with the unpredictable weather ...and i totally agree that you should never pull out in front of or brake check a truck.
Similar part went on my Equinox, no independent service station wanted to take it on. Took it to a Chevy dealer, about 300 dollars to replace the unit.
You can buy small portable digital oscilloscopes for cheap these days. You don't have to spend the four or even five figure sums that some manufacturers are asking for their auto test gear. It's basically (very) just a microprocessor and a colour screen. The more money you spend the bigger the screen and battery, and the more features you get, such as serial bus decoding. Auto diagnostics is not really very demanding compared to what oscilloscopes are capable of these days so some basic functionality such as looking at 600 Hz to 5000 Hz square wave is quite cheap.
you can get usb oscilloscopes REALLY cheap that'd work with those position sensors, especially since they're in audio range, there's even some kits that'd cost about 25bucks in your dollars, gotta put em together though.
You crack me up man, "It's difficult for you to survive if you are flat and you have a truck on top of you." love it.
ray “ run like a bunny” in the rain! your troubleshooting skills are amazing! by the symptoms,
right away you narrowed down all the possibilities to the simplest fix. knowing the
functional life of that sensor. process of illumination, pointed to replace it , if it did not fixed
the issue , you would go to the next level. great video, take care and be safe out there!
Ray, I recommend a cable tracker, they can be quite handy to find wire breaks so you don't have to pull out the whole harness to find a break
"The Chryslers of Japan" ... I love it!
Few nissan things.
They are slow to talk to scan tools.
They sometimes talk to scan tools in jibberish.
Non-oem cam/crank sensors are junk. Oem or denso work the best.
And get yourself a lab scope. I have a 130 dollar one that looks and also works like a power probe. One of my go to tools for this type of work.
I have 1970 Datsun 521 with a dump bed. Best little truck
Glad the parts cannon had dry powder on that rainy day. Loved the truck PSA.
GREAT ADVICE ON THE BIG TRUCK ISSUE.
Try-agnostics is going in my rotation, thanks for another great video Ray!
Ty for the psa on not pulling out in front of trucks... I've been otr driving since 84 my dad before me.... I've not had any accidents but, plenty of very close calls
For a moment I thought the temperature in that cluster was a little high. Maybe it's an Altima thing. Great vid, as always!!
2005... Pre-CVT. That Altima should run for a very long time. People over look these, but the pre-CVT Altimas are usually very reliable. I was a Nissan Master Tech for 4 years. Maybe consider trading that Apollo in for a Triton. I use my Triton's scope a lot on Nissans. That looks like the updated OEM sensor. The old plastic ones had a high failure rate. Nissan updated the design several years ago. Also, for those watching that own Nissans... Always use OEM sensors. Nissans do not like aftermarket sensors. They will throw the same code in a few months.
Same approach I had with my Mitsubishi except no troubleshooting. Replaced sensing unit right away 😂
Ray- You can find a good scope at a reasonable price by looking at a local Amateur Radio fair or swap meet. A good Tektronics scope with probes should run from $100.00-$250.00. Verify it works and comes with the instruction manual before shelling out cash. I passed up one at the last HamFair for $100.00 and rt was LED display!
We use to change the cam and crank sensor in pair according to Nissan procedure for that code