thanks for this vid fella, ive done 100s of sticks and never had to reflow the cpu until today and i wouldnt of found the shorts if i hadnt watched this. saved my bacon again dude. thanks
What sticks are you using as replacements? And do you know if there was any improvement to the silicone / rubber parts? Literally every rubber part failed on my elite v1, the grips peeled, one of the buttom domes broke and the rubber came off one of the thumbstick heads. Or are there any better than oem parts to replace them with?
Hello, do you have the diagram to repair the left control, it shows me as in your video that it deviated laterally as in your video like this ( / ) then I want to repair it by removing the connection from the tracks to recover it.
Cheers mate 👍, Very good video indeed. Can I ask you link to buy the sticks u r using, that should be better quality than the stock ones, would be very appreciated. Thanks and have a good one 😊.
@@UberMicroRepairs Alright 👍, thank you! What should I look for, to get the best possible ones, brand or type/SKU, if you could advise, would be very appreciated, cheers 😊👍.
@@UberMicroRepairs I also (like Michael above) am interested in a better quality replacement (than the stock Alpine ones) Maybe not worth the time for you, but if there was a link to buy them directly from you, I'd choose that over fishing on eBay/amazon/Ali express hoping for the good ones that outlast/perform the ALPS ones. Since you're buying in bulk, you might have excess you can sell. ;) I really enjoy your videos. Thank you and cheers!!
Great vid, I've been repairing my own controllers for many years and I've always had good luck replacing thumbsticks until recently, I think it might be down to bad replacement parts. If ebay thumbnails are to be trusted I believe both Modiify-it and Devine Customz sell those exact same thumbsticks, I haven't bought either yet but I've got a couple of used elite 2 controllers coming so I may need to soon.
I had 3 elite controllers in the span of 2 years and returned the last for a refund. All had that loose stick deadzone wobble which made them unusable for competitive shooters. Do you think this is just down to faulty batches of potentiometers or is it just the type MS has used is poor quality throughout? Except for the stick wobble the elite series 2 was a great controller, and just thought it was down to the new stick tension feature causing the issue. If I knew this issue could be fixed by using better potentiometers I would have just got them replaced. Would appreciate if you could elaborate the brand, SKU or even a link to the exact type you recommend. Then if I decide to get another one at least I will have the option to get the sticks replaced locally (Aus) knowing the issue will be fixed. These controllers are expensive to start with but sometimes you just want a controller with all the features the elite has but works like it should.
I don't think the analog issues with the Series 2 controller are a bad batch I think it's faulty design. Check out my pinned comment for a dissection of a stock Series 2 analog stick module. The potentiomiters are the same ones (ALPS) used on all Xbox controllers, also PS4 and PS5 controllers, so that is a standard reliabity there. The analog stick modules I use are of higher quality than the stock modules. This has been proved time and time again. Where returning customers have come back after first having the the analogs replaced by me (Uber Micro) the first time and 8 - 12 months later sending it in for the LB RB switched to be repalced because they are worn out. However the analog modules I did initially are still in tip top condition. Yes slightly looser due to use but no worring wobble, still centering to with in 7% and no drifting! I can't really reccommend any places or SKU because I buy in bulk from Chineese whole sale (factory direct). 500pcs minimum order and bank transfer, cross your fingers and hope a DHL package arrives in a few weeks! I have seen them on Aliexpress but can't vouch for them. It is a shame the Series 2 controller suffers from the analog issues and LB / RB issues as it's a solid controller.
@@UberMicroRepairs Thanks for replying. I thought it too was a a design flaw which is why I returned mine for a refund. So with the tighest tension the flaw is less noticeable. Unfortunately I like the least tension so it made it unplayable to use for competitive shooter's. I'll wait to see if they do a V3 but only after some time has passed to ensure it doesn't have the same flaws. For now I got my Series X controller modded with four remappable buttons. Added the surge trigger stops and replaced the thumbsticks with elite 1's. So far it's the best controller I've used. Our consumer laws in Australia is probably the only good thing that protects us. It's just crazy that this design flaw was approved. There's going to be a lot of unhappy Halo series 2 edition customers.
I tried to repair my trigger. Never took the motherboards out. Now my home button light wont turn on. Controller has power with an orange blinking light. If I do a 10 second reset it sometimes will turn on the 3 white profile selector lights. If I plug it in it won't recognize on XBOX X or PC. Any ideas how to fix this?
Hello, I’ve been experiencing the exact same issue with my controller. No power & won’t charge. I’ve completely disassembled the controller and looked at the boards just as you did & wasn’t seeing anything no corrosion or any signs of damage or anything that would prevent the controller from not taking a charge or powering up. Checked all contacts and area/ pins on cpu still no luck. Any suggestions?
Hi, I've just re-watched this vid (couldn't remember it). I seemed to have sorted the no power issue with reflowing the CPU due to the funky stuff under it. However.... I've not realy came across this excat issue to may times before. Usually there is liquid damage just below the left analog. Can I ask when you plug in the USB is there a faint hi-pitched noise? You may have to put the controller right up to your ear to hear it. Might sound like a whine or churping,it can be a very subtle sound, I have two other videos on dead Elite 2's that give a high piched whine.
@@UberMicroRepairs yes 👍🏼 it is very faint but you can hear it make a ringing noise very high pitch, also I appreciate your help 🙏🏼 also what would be the best plan of action?
@@UberMicroRepairs update: So I took the controller apart again because I’m determined to get it going haha and I sprayed 91% isopropyl under the cpu and left analog stick throughly and let it air dry then blew air underneath both and a huge chunk of what appeared to be food remnants or grease came out from underneath the cpu, next I gave it another treatment with the spray and air dried again then connected everything and I got the charging LED to light up but it was only for a brief second and would shut off again
@@Dy060 yeah I’m pretty sure it was the main cpu just follow the video or what I did was I disassembled the controller down to the boards and I used a spray bottle of 91% isopropyl alcohol with it just as a stream pretty much trying to flush the underside of the pcu out as best as possible and get like a new tooth brush and try and get under and along the entire cpu then with compressed air try getting any residual alcohol or contaminants from underneath out. You may have to repeat the flushing serval times but once you’ve gone over it at least 3 times let the board completely air dry for at least few hours to be safe, reassemble and make sure all your contact points to and from the battery are all clean as well and when reassembling make sure the spring loaded contacts have an adequate amount of pressure they can be tricky with the rear shell getting in the way and making proper connection for me anyway but yeah I was able to fully bring my controller back from the dead 👍🏼 100% function + no stick drift
Here is an explanation of why I think the Series Elite 2 analog sticks fail (wobble) ua-cam.com/video/a6Ex1lHbSZ0/v-deo.html Here is how we repair LB RB on the Xbox Series 2 controller ua-cam.com/video/737JI7CQ-LA/v-deo.html
thanks for this vid fella, ive done 100s of sticks and never had to reflow the cpu until today and i wouldnt of found the shorts if i hadnt watched this. saved my bacon again dude. thanks
What sticks are you using as replacements? And do you know if there was any improvement to the silicone / rubber parts? Literally every rubber part failed on my elite v1, the grips peeled, one of the buttom domes broke and the rubber came off one of the thumbstick heads. Or are there any better than oem parts to replace them with?
Hello, do you have the diagram to repair the left control, it shows me as in your video that it deviated laterally as in your video like this ( / )
then I want to repair it by removing the connection from the tracks to recover it.
Hey, can you explain what those connectors you mentioned at minute 6:20 are for?
One of those fell and I don't know how to glue it back
They provide power between the boards, quite important.
@@UberMicroRepairs thanks for the reply.
Do you know how can I glue it back up again if it fell?
Cheers mate 👍, Very good video indeed. Can I ask you link to buy the sticks u r using, that should be better quality than the stock ones, would be very appreciated. Thanks and have a good one 😊.
Thanks for the kind words! Aliexpress or eBay is you best bet if you need one or two.
@@UberMicroRepairs Alright 👍, thank you!
What should I look for, to get the best possible ones, brand or type/SKU, if you could advise, would be very appreciated, cheers 😊👍.
Awesome video it’s actually my controller that you’re working on there. I’ve no idea where that gunk came from but glad you found it.
@@UberMicroRepairs I also (like Michael above) am interested in a better quality replacement (than the stock Alpine ones) Maybe not worth the time for you, but if there was a link to buy them directly from you, I'd choose that over fishing on eBay/amazon/Ali express hoping for the good ones that outlast/perform the ALPS ones. Since you're buying in bulk, you might have excess you can sell. ;)
I really enjoy your videos. Thank you and cheers!!
Great vid, I've been repairing my own controllers for many years and I've always had good luck replacing thumbsticks until recently, I think it might be down to bad replacement parts.
If ebay thumbnails are to be trusted I believe both Modiify-it and Devine Customz sell those exact same thumbsticks, I haven't bought either yet but I've got a couple of used elite 2 controllers coming so I may need to soon.
what olms measurements are we supposed to look for in the blue and green boards?
10K for Xbox. 10 or20K for PS.
I had 3 elite controllers in the span of 2 years and returned the last for a refund. All had that loose stick deadzone wobble which made them unusable for competitive shooters. Do you think this is just down to faulty batches of potentiometers or is it just the type MS has used is poor quality throughout?
Except for the stick wobble the elite series 2 was a great controller, and just thought it was down to the new stick tension feature causing the issue. If I knew this issue could be fixed by using better potentiometers I would have just got them replaced.
Would appreciate if you could elaborate the brand, SKU or even a link to the exact type you recommend. Then if I decide to get another one at least I will have the option to get the sticks replaced locally (Aus) knowing the issue will be fixed. These controllers are expensive to start with but sometimes you just want a controller with all the features the elite has but works like it should.
I don't think the analog issues with the Series 2 controller are a bad batch I think it's faulty design. Check out my pinned comment for a dissection of a stock Series 2 analog stick module. The potentiomiters are the same ones (ALPS) used on all Xbox controllers, also PS4 and PS5 controllers, so that is a standard reliabity there.
The analog stick modules I use are of higher quality than the stock modules. This has been proved time and time again. Where returning customers have come back after first having the the analogs replaced by me (Uber Micro) the first time and 8 - 12 months later sending it in for the LB RB switched to be repalced because they are worn out. However the analog modules I did initially are still in tip top condition. Yes slightly looser due to use but no worring wobble, still centering to with in 7% and no drifting!
I can't really reccommend any places or SKU because I buy in bulk from Chineese whole sale (factory direct). 500pcs minimum order and bank transfer, cross your fingers and hope a DHL package arrives in a few weeks! I have seen them on Aliexpress but can't vouch for them. It is a shame the Series 2 controller suffers from the analog issues and LB / RB issues as it's a solid controller.
@@UberMicroRepairs Thanks for replying. I thought it too was a a design flaw which is why I returned mine for a refund. So with the tighest tension the flaw is less noticeable. Unfortunately I like the least tension so it made it unplayable to use for competitive shooter's.
I'll wait to see if they do a V3 but only after some time has passed to ensure it doesn't have the same flaws. For now I got my Series X controller modded with four remappable buttons. Added the surge trigger stops and replaced the thumbsticks with elite 1's. So far it's the best controller I've used.
Our consumer laws in Australia is probably the only good thing that protects us. It's just crazy that this design flaw was approved. There's going to be a lot of unhappy Halo series 2 edition customers.
Hey do you know how to remove the sticks without the magnetic sticks?
Hey I swapped my series x analogs for elite series 2 analogs and they just simply don't work and I got stick drift going up. Any suggestions?
I tried to repair my trigger. Never took the motherboards out. Now my home button light wont turn on. Controller has power with an orange blinking light. If I do a 10 second reset it sometimes will turn on the 3 white profile selector lights. If I plug it in it won't recognize on XBOX X or PC. Any ideas how to fix this?
Hello, I’ve been experiencing the exact same issue with my controller. No power & won’t charge. I’ve completely disassembled the controller and looked at the boards just as you did & wasn’t seeing anything no corrosion or any signs of damage or anything that would prevent the controller from not taking a charge or powering up. Checked all contacts and area/ pins on cpu still no luck. Any suggestions?
Hi, I've just re-watched this vid (couldn't remember it). I seemed to have sorted the no power issue with reflowing the CPU due to the funky stuff under it. However.... I've not realy came across this excat issue to may times before. Usually there is liquid damage just below the left analog. Can I ask when you plug in the USB is there a faint hi-pitched noise? You may have to put the controller right up to your ear to hear it. Might sound like a whine or churping,it can be a very subtle sound, I have two other videos on dead Elite 2's that give a high piched whine.
@@UberMicroRepairs yes 👍🏼 it is very faint but you can hear it make a ringing noise very high pitch, also I appreciate your help 🙏🏼 also what would be the best plan of action?
@@UberMicroRepairs update: So I took the controller apart again because I’m determined to get it going haha and I sprayed 91% isopropyl under the cpu and left analog stick throughly and let it air dry then blew air underneath both and a huge chunk of what appeared to be food remnants or grease came out from underneath the cpu, next I gave it another treatment with the spray and air dried again then connected everything and I got the charging LED to light up but it was only for a brief second and would shut off again
@@tonyguillen3569 Hi, any luck with your controller? i have the exact same problem with mine, no power and with the little noise aswell.
@@Dy060 yeah I’m pretty sure it was the main cpu just follow the video or what I did was I disassembled the controller down to the boards and I used a spray bottle of 91% isopropyl alcohol with it just as a stream pretty much trying to flush the underside of the pcu out as best as possible and get like a new tooth brush and try and get under and along the entire cpu then with compressed air try getting any residual alcohol or contaminants from underneath out. You may have to repeat the flushing serval times but once you’ve gone over it at least 3 times let the board completely air dry for at least few hours to be safe, reassemble and make sure all your contact points to and from the battery are all clean as well and when reassembling make sure the spring loaded contacts have an adequate amount of pressure they can be tricky with the rear shell getting in the way and making proper connection for me anyway but yeah I was able to fully bring my controller back from the dead 👍🏼 100% function + no stick drift
Here is an explanation of why I think the Series Elite 2 analog sticks fail (wobble) ua-cam.com/video/a6Ex1lHbSZ0/v-deo.html
Here is how we repair LB RB on the Xbox Series 2 controller ua-cam.com/video/737JI7CQ-LA/v-deo.html
21:00 what are you doing here?
My controller charges but does not turn on without the USB it's an elite controller 2
I really need some help on this
@@billyminion2082 Same here, did you get a fix?