I bought a new plastic piece for under $10 and greased it up before putting things back together. Your solution is much longer lasting, though. Thank you for the very detailed video! It made my job a whole lot easier by taking much of the guesswork out of it.
...and here I thought I was the only one that's done this fix!! LOL! I didn't have any bushings either, so I made one out of a chunk of steel rod I had lying around. To bore the plastic part, I figured out a way to chuck it in the 4-jaw on my lathe & line-bored it to the outer diameter of my homemade steel bushing. That stupid little plastic part is incredibly important in the steering system. Once it ovals out, it allows a LOT of misalignment between the rack and pinon, wearing out the teeth on the rack & requiring replacement of the whole assembly. Thankfully, in mine it was only the plastic part that wore out. Now, it NEVER will. It's also critical to ensure the little stack of thin spacers underneath the E-clip go back in the way they were. They're the adjustment to ensure the pinion gear on the end of the steering shaft engages in the rack completely. Otherwise, the teeth on both will rapidly wear out. Thankfully, with the steel bushing in place (and lubed well), I'll NEVER have to replace that coupler again!!! Total cost? About $1 for the piece of steel rod, and about an hour of my time. That beats $24 (I'm in Canada, so parts prices are WAY higher than in the US) any day of the week! Once it was installed, the steering was WAY lighter (almost like power steering!) and WAY more precise - no more 1/2 turn of the wheel to just move the wheels a hair!
Have the same tractor now for about 23-25 years. Did the same remove & replace of that poorly designed nylon pivot bushing. Took pretty much a full day, and my knuckles bled more than yours. How you have the initiative to do a mod to the old bushing is beyond me. You're aware that part is about $7. Still have that tractor and am about to "do-it-again" but this time, am thinking of replacing the entire steering assembly ($85 on Amazon). I've learned my lesson on that bushing. The deck is falling apart but that Kohler 14HP is a gem. Engine oil still looks like Wesson oil. Might get rid of it but I keep finding uses for it and in really starts great. Sits outside with a cover in winter too. I replaced it for lawn cutting 3-4 years ago, but took it out to a second property, and it's great for hauling dirt in a dump cart. Use it for cutting weeds too. Just put an inter tube in the right rear wheel. I'm sitting on the fence deciding about that steering assembly though. That's a job even with the whole assembly approach. Thanks for the video.
This was such a common issue and beyond me why plastic was coupled with cast iron. Especially in the critical area that the plastic piece's job was implemented. But, as it's well known....the money isn't in the sale of the machine, it's in the parts needed to keep it operational. Best of luck with it! Zip~
That's usually the ultimate goal when I'm looking to pass along a donated piece of equipment. Sometimes, a little $$ is involved, but the smile on the recipients face more than makes up for it. In past years (like 10 years ago) I used to seek out riding mowers to repair and pass along. This one makes number 42 from over the years that I've gotten for free, repaired and passed along. Cheers Joe! Zip~
They sell the whole kit online but might have to thread the 4 bolt holes and extend the shaft by cutting you old shaft and welding onto new one. About 80 bucks and less than 30 min messing around.
I have a craftsman/weedeater tractor that had a similar issue , bieng a cheeper model but similar, there was a big piece of plastic in the steering setup that warbled out,initially tried shimming, drilling out straighter, using copper piping cut down to make bushings. Well it worked a while n wore out again. So took it all apart, and happened to have a similar year scrap craftsman with an entire metal steering setup, so with a lil modding, stock steering rod slightly cut down steering shaft its held together now since i changed it over. Nearly a perfect swap
Zippo! Try wearing nitrile gloves more frequently. I'm boiler technician, here in the North East. My girlfriend appreciates me coming home with clean hands. 🔧👍
I haven't completed my "fix" as of yet. But I also know that the deck does not need to be removed. There is a difference between mechanics and machinists. Mechanics replace parts. Machinists make them perfect
That is a great idea the steering would out last the rest of the mower. It would be a simple matter to do the drilling out of the OEM T fitting on a drill press as you did. Making the bushing in two parts not so much. Your bushing fit the 5/8" bore but what size was the final ID to fit the steering shaft? Thanks.
I am curious to see if all or most of the play is fixed or if you will need to shorten the length of the shaft that slides in the new bushing, so you can get the gears to set together deeper or will that bind on the ends of the pie gear where it is not worn as bad?
Ultimately, there is something causing a lot of drag on the steering assembly as a whole, but we'll have to see part three to know if this fix works. Fortunately....no need to wait! It's uploading as I type this. Cheers Frank! But...I digress a little...I may still shorten the input and drop the pinion gear about 1/8" for better engagement. Zip~
The side-to-side play is adjusted by a set of very thin spacers (washers, really) on the end of the cross shaft that goes through the bottom of the plastic coupler, and under the E-clip that holds the cross shaft in place. The more of them used, the deeper the engagement of the gears is. Mine had 3 of them from the factory, and with the coupler modded with a steel bushing (and ALL the wobble gone), the stack of 3 was absolutely perfect. Gears mesh precisely, with zero play, and zero binding. This oughta last forever, now!
You're exactly correct Doug. Having a skilled trades background, I can't tell you how many times I had to hand hold desk jockey engineers to equipment to explain to them why their "bright ideas" wouldn't work and instead of wasting time trying to break what isn't broken, come down to the floor FIRST with the idea instead of wasting company resources on a wing and a prayer or a hunch. I guess they were just bored and felt the need to create without common sense. You can not teach Common Sense. You either have it or you don't and I'm still amazed by the notion that someone spent 4, 6 or 8 years with their noses in books without a single shred of which end of the pencil to use. lol
Unfortunately, no.....still plastic. MTD was never known for high quality or fixing weak links. They would rather make the $$ on the back end in parts. Make them last through the warranty then make more money on them. Cheers! Zip~
MEMORIES (nightmares) of my bumbling efforts to free-up the steering on the "field Queen"; ruined more than I fixed! Faced with a really bad "cost reduced" design (typical of the 80s). The use of nylon bushings to reduce the need for lubrication, did not consider the effect of rusting metal shafts causing the oxidation binding into the nylon surface.
MTD and AYP products are just pieces of shit that people have been buying for years and are just throw away's and not designed for long life. Most manufacturers just want stuff to last a least one day after the warranty expires. My 1963 Whirlpool/Kenmore washing machine is still going strong (as an example of how well stuff was built back in day and like my Gravely and Simplicity tractors). But people just continue to buy this cheap crap and with the "name" recognition think they are getting something that means "good long lasting quality".... :(
Engineered to Fail. Plain and simple and I couldn't agree more with you Tom. It's frustrating the direction that manufacturing has gone. Things used to be designed to last. Now they're designed to fail and at a premium price for both the initial purchase and replacement parts. Craftsman is a prime example of selling out in the hopes that their name would be enough to mask the deception. We all know how well that worked out. Cheers my Friend! Zip~
I never post. However,, This was an EXCELLENT! Video. Cool .. Calm. and Collected.. And very transparently detailed.. Thank you Thank you.
You're quite welcome! Zip~
I bought a new plastic piece for under $10 and greased it up before putting things back together. Your solution is much longer lasting, though. Thank you for the very detailed video! It made my job a whole lot easier by taking much of the guesswork out of it.
I'm glad it helped! That's why I post the videos. Cheers Clear! Zip~
Looks like a good fix Zip. Can't believe that's a plastic part. Cool getting to see the mill's inaugural run! God Bless. 👍👍
Mr. Pit! We'll see on part 3 if the repair works! Cheers! Zip~
...and here I thought I was the only one that's done this fix!! LOL! I didn't have any bushings either, so I made one out of a chunk of steel rod I had lying around. To bore the plastic part, I figured out a way to chuck it in the 4-jaw on my lathe & line-bored it to the outer diameter of my homemade steel bushing.
That stupid little plastic part is incredibly important in the steering system. Once it ovals out, it allows a LOT of misalignment between the rack and pinon, wearing out the teeth on the rack & requiring replacement of the whole assembly. Thankfully, in mine it was only the plastic part that wore out. Now, it NEVER will.
It's also critical to ensure the little stack of thin spacers underneath the E-clip go back in the way they were. They're the adjustment to ensure the pinion gear on the end of the steering shaft engages in the rack completely. Otherwise, the teeth on both will rapidly wear out.
Thankfully, with the steel bushing in place (and lubed well), I'll NEVER have to replace that coupler again!!! Total cost? About $1 for the piece of steel rod, and about an hour of my time. That beats $24 (I'm in Canada, so parts prices are WAY higher than in the US) any day of the week!
Once it was installed, the steering was WAY lighter (almost like power steering!) and WAY more precise - no more 1/2 turn of the wheel to just move the wheels a hair!
I just replaced the whole metal steering box from a older craftsman, fit with a couple minor adjustments, bolted right in
True repair work - cant wait for pt 2. Thanks for sharing Zippo
Have the same tractor now for about 23-25 years. Did the same remove & replace of that poorly designed nylon pivot bushing. Took pretty much a full day, and my knuckles bled more than yours. How you have the initiative to do a mod to the old bushing is beyond me. You're aware that part is about $7. Still have that tractor and am about to "do-it-again" but this time, am thinking of replacing the entire steering assembly ($85 on Amazon). I've learned my lesson on that bushing. The deck is falling apart but that Kohler 14HP is a gem. Engine oil still looks like Wesson oil. Might get rid of it but I keep finding uses for it and in really starts great. Sits outside with a cover in winter too. I replaced it for lawn cutting 3-4 years ago, but took it out to a second property, and it's great for hauling dirt in a dump cart. Use it for cutting weeds too. Just put an inter tube in the right rear wheel. I'm sitting on the fence deciding about that steering assembly though. That's a job even with the whole assembly approach. Thanks for the video.
This was such a common issue and beyond me why plastic was coupled with cast iron. Especially in the critical area that the plastic piece's job was implemented. But, as it's well known....the money isn't in the sale of the machine, it's in the parts needed to keep it operational. Best of luck with it! Zip~
Looks good. No money. Just time. Nice of you
That's usually the ultimate goal when I'm looking to pass along a donated piece of equipment. Sometimes, a little $$ is involved, but the smile on the recipients face more than makes up for it. In past years (like 10 years ago) I used to seek out riding mowers to repair and pass along. This one makes number 42 from over the years that I've gotten for free, repaired and passed along. Cheers Joe! Zip~
Sweet, you’ve been dying to use the mill for a video. Enjoyed it!
Great Job Zippo!!!
Thanks Nash! Zip~
That’s a better fix than a new part and will last twice as long
They sell the whole kit online but might have to thread the 4 bolt holes and extend the shaft by cutting you old shaft and welding onto new one. About 80 bucks and less than 30 min messing around.
I have a craftsman/weedeater tractor that had a similar issue , bieng a cheeper model but similar, there was a big piece of plastic in the steering setup that warbled out,initially tried shimming, drilling out straighter, using copper piping cut down to make bushings. Well it worked a while n wore out again. So took it all apart, and happened to have a similar year scrap craftsman with an entire metal steering setup, so with a lil modding, stock steering rod slightly cut down steering shaft its held together now since i changed it over. Nearly a perfect swap
Winner winner chicken dinner great video zip thanks for sharing.
Great job I will have to put a steering shaft and bearings in my 20-year-old john deere and I dread it.
It's worth fixing Danny. Good luck with it! Cheers my Friend! Zip~
Great job ! Fun to watch .
Thanks Rudy! Zip~
That was fun Zip👍
Good presentation. You're a hard worker to do all that work to fix the mower. I think I'll buy a new mower instead.
For 3/or 8K I will fix what I have all summer first or install new parts
Zippo! Try wearing nitrile gloves more frequently. I'm boiler technician, here in the North East. My girlfriend appreciates me coming home with clean hands. 🔧👍
I haven't completed my "fix" as of yet. But I also know that the deck does not need to be removed. There is a difference between mechanics and machinists. Mechanics replace parts. Machinists make them perfect
Or at least make improvements eh? Cheers Mr. Blum! Zip~
We've become a throwaway society
Unfortunately, you are correct. Zip~
That is a great idea the steering would out last the rest of the mower. It would be a simple matter to do the drilling out of the OEM T fitting on a drill press as you did. Making the bushing in two parts not so much. Your bushing fit the 5/8" bore but what size was the final ID to fit the steering shaft? Thanks.
With it being assembled, I can't readily take the measurement without taking everything apart again. I'm sorry I can't answer your question. Zip~
Awesome video!!!
Thanks Zinn! Zip~
I am curious to see if all or most of the play is fixed or if you will need to shorten the length of the shaft that slides in the new bushing, so you can get the gears to set together deeper or will that bind on the ends of the pie gear where it is not worn as bad?
Ultimately, there is something causing a lot of drag on the steering assembly as a whole, but we'll have to see part three to know if this fix works. Fortunately....no need to wait! It's uploading as I type this. Cheers Frank! But...I digress a little...I may still shorten the input and drop the pinion gear about 1/8" for better engagement. Zip~
Thanks for the information, good guess, I guess.
The side-to-side play is adjusted by a set of very thin spacers (washers, really) on the end of the cross shaft that goes through the bottom of the plastic coupler, and under the E-clip that holds the cross shaft in place. The more of them used, the deeper the engagement of the gears is. Mine had 3 of them from the factory, and with the coupler modded with a steel bushing (and ALL the wobble gone), the stack of 3 was absolutely perfect. Gears mesh precisely, with zero play, and zero binding. This oughta last forever, now!
And people have asked me why do you keep all of that junk. That will outlast the machine.
My weld broke right above the small gear had to take the whole dash- apart to get it out engineers book-smart not user smart
You're exactly correct Doug. Having a skilled trades background, I can't tell you how many times I had to hand hold desk jockey engineers to equipment to explain to them why their "bright ideas" wouldn't work and instead of wasting time trying to break what isn't broken, come down to the floor FIRST with the idea instead of wasting company resources on a wing and a prayer or a hunch. I guess they were just bored and felt the need to create without common sense. You can not teach Common Sense. You either have it or you don't and I'm still amazed by the notion that someone spent 4, 6 or 8 years with their noses in books without a single shred of which end of the pencil to use. lol
The bushing will 10x its life.
We'll see what fails next. Every time you fix a weak link, another rears its head on these older mass produced machines. Cheers Moe! Zip~
Don’t you love it when engineers try to sell the use of plastic as “self-lubricating”?
I wonder if the manufacturer have discovered their screw up design with the nylon bushing and have a steel version available for sale now.
Unfortunately, no.....still plastic. MTD was never known for high quality or fixing weak links. They would rather make the $$ on the back end in parts. Make them last through the warranty then make more money on them. Cheers! Zip~
it’s a sacrificial part designed to wear out and be replaced so you don’t have to replace both pieces when it gets ovalled out.
you just wanted to run the mill,lol. that should be good for awhile
I got a craftsman 2007 model DLS 3500 is this the same set up
MEMORIES (nightmares) of my bumbling efforts to free-up the steering on the "field Queen"; ruined more than I fixed! Faced with a really bad "cost reduced" design (typical of the 80s). The use of nylon bushings to reduce the need for lubrication, did not consider the effect of rusting metal shafts causing the oxidation binding into the nylon surface.
Broke the plastic part on my dads old rally, so I'm in the process of fixing that"
Well you know in the Navy we say " it aint a good day inless you bleed"
Another flesh wound. I am collecting bushings too. Plastic steering input shaft HMMM It almost took out the tractor's life.
Scraped knuckles, a daily struggle lol. Cheers my Friend! Welcome back! Sean~
The tee fitting should be made out of aluminum or metal bushes inside it , terrible design by ayp
Sure need to keep it clean and greased all the time
Yep that’s a cheap design and weak
MTD and AYP products are just pieces of shit that people have been buying for years and are just throw away's and not designed for long life. Most manufacturers just want stuff to last a least one day after the warranty expires. My 1963 Whirlpool/Kenmore washing machine is still going strong (as an example of how well stuff was built back in day and like my Gravely and Simplicity tractors). But people just continue to buy this cheap crap and with the "name" recognition think they are getting something that means "good long lasting quality".... :(
Engineered to Fail. Plain and simple and I couldn't agree more with you Tom. It's frustrating the direction that manufacturing has gone. Things used to be designed to last. Now they're designed to fail and at a premium price for both the initial purchase and replacement parts. Craftsman is a prime example of selling out in the hopes that their name would be enough to mask the deception. We all know how well that worked out. Cheers my Friend! Zip~