Really cool to see Adam using a heater to simulate the expected conditions of summer comp climbing. I generally hate the heat but I find I usually get used to it or find ways to deal with it after a while. Also like Alex's attitude of seeing as the heat as a motivation to get stronger.
Love the fact that someone as talented as Adam takes the time to explain things to us beginners. Informative without being patronising, excellent attitude.
I really only Boulder. Been climbing for 4 years in a gym, only been climbing outdoors once.. I have Raynauds Disease so when I get really stressed or the temperature drops below 60F my feet and hands loose their blood flow and stop functioning. Makes most climbing outdoors incredibly difficult for me. Just something I’ve had to work around. Even getting to the gym in the winter I have to really get warmed up if the drive was cold because my hands will be numb.
Dear Adam, I am a big fan of yours, yet I still think its more important to see you on the rocks, beating new challenges and making routes like Silence or even harder in the future.... these ninja style competitions simply do suit to a different type of climber... and besides a totally different approach to training, are one of the reason why japanese, or asian athletes in general do excel there. I can see you doing pretty well in lead, but bouldering in the Olympics will be the same crap as it was this year in Hachioji.... and it was a really really bad feeling to see you struggling this heavy, without even having a zone. You are one of the best, if not the best ROCK climbers in the world, one of the best of a generation and many of us still hope and would like to see a lot of new accomplishments from you on the ROCKS... the world is full of ninjas these days, but there is only a handful of exceptional rock climbers able to push the current limits even higher... and this, at least in my eyes, is your task and your legacy Adam.
@@TheScreamingSeal Most likely because Adam didn't want to take any shine away from the film The Dawn Wall. Adam probably respects Tommy and Kevin's achievement and didn't want to overshadow them is my guess. Maybe down the line more will be released about his climb but I think it will be a while.
Amazing how one of the toughest climbers in the world, who has climbed the hardest routes in the the world, struggles to classify for the olympics...this shows you how tough this sport is and how humble you must be to get to the top, literally and figuraretly
Indoor and plastic holds have moved away from the shapes found on natural rocks. The issue of setting for multiple dynos also makes it begin to differ more. - Imagine how many pads you'd have to bring to some bouldering areas if routes were like some of those you see in comps. And clipping in is NOT lead climbing. Even sport climbs require choosing the right quickdraws. Clipping comps don'tdo it in that way as well. Speed is like a dog tricks show. While same muscles and even skin are developed, climbing plastic has diverged. A friend would knock on my door to go free soloing and exploring new areas for bouldering or unknown walls or canyons never within miles of guidebooks (believe me, the west is FULL of constantly new little places!. any hidden canyon far from a road might be something no others have ever climbed - if they are far enough), we'd sometimes find cold sunny windy places where wind venturis so powerfully that even climbing at 5.10 was scary as you feel big buffets of solid air blasting you off balance points. No indoor ever remotely approaches wild country. (he did die long ago soloing in Indian Creek when, as others reported, in the total dry, a cloud appeared over his route only, and rained on him. So it's a different sport for each of us. He'd go up places where the wise would not follow) Nothing like that- weather - happens in any open artificial climbing places, either, with their cushy mamas waiting ever below instead of curious buzzards above. Nor are you ever surprised by the ttttttttttttttt of a rattlesnake holing up in the shade of a big bucket you're reaching to. Or walking by a crag when suddenly a huge chunk of two long established routes comes off, exploding , creating new route opportunities in an old place. Climbing i s different, more wild and marvelous in the real, although the body feels so good doing it anywhere. It's two or more related sports. A friend once established a new aid route after decades of half dome climbing history. I'm just an impulsive passerby, now & then walking in some other country's desert land, looking up. . . Sometimes climbing is rock, running up long scree, ice, snow - all different, all at once. Ever chopped classic steps up a razorback ridge? or glissaded down avy chutes? Plastic has its place, and some are less aroused by it, though appreciating it's consistency and the great people in there involved in that other game.
I'm building a bouldering wall in my garage and I'm using wood holds... What do you think of wooden climbing holds? But I also have a heater in there to control the conditions I train in 😁
i am obviously not adam, but wood holds suck, lol. totally ok to switch things up, but only? if you got access to a stone drill, prep some nice rocks, if you want to avoid buying polyurethan holds
Adam, I am new to climbing on youtube and am interested to find out what you do to handle your weak points? I have noticed, in bouldering, that you are either the best or one of the best on just about every type of move, except, some dynamic moves. I am very much a fan, so much that I stopped watching the recent comp when you were removed from the top eight. Pardon me if my terminology is not quite correct.
Adam: think of it like this- hot and humid is the 2nd best comp conditions for those of us with sweatier hands. Best is cold and dry, but if it is super humid, EVERYONE suffers, even the dry-skin guys. So it is an equalizer. Worst case is medium temp/humidity, then the dry-skins will kill us! (or me anyway!). The one nice thing is sweatier skin seems to recover faster between sessions.
Ciao Adam... Mi è diapiciuto.. Giuro ho pianto per te..., ma cavoli a me non sembra che hai toccato la presa.... Insomma ti fai il mazzo... Come gli altri... Ma perché... Perché.... Ti si vuol bene... Dai... Dai.... Dai Adam... Che noi ci crediamo in te.
At the previous competition Ondra allegedly stepped on a bolt and as a result of IFSC rules he was marked down heavily and did not get enough points to qualify. There are other competitions but he didn't qualify through this one.
No offense to the comp climbers as I'm sure there is a bivy and in comp medium, they all hang quite well against Adam but, a Ondra-less Olympics would make it an official bust of lameness.
I wonder if there are any climbers that actually prefer hot and humid conditions. Climbing, like every land sport, is easier to do when it is slightly colder.
Alex Megos is the best! If you can not do the climb, you are too weak. Personally, I belive it depends all on your mindset (being strong helps of course. A 6a climber won't climb an 8a just because of the right mindset). If you believe you can only climb strongly when it's cold and dry, then you will always fail when conditions aren't "perfect". And you will always blame wrong conditions when failing. Be honest to yourself and ask yourself why you could not do the climb in perfect conditions. I mean, if it were so dependent on the conditions, why didn't Adam succeed on silence earlier? There must have been days with perfect conditions in his many tries before the successful one
@@UnicycleSoul agreed! I just wanted to point out that Adam seems really obsessed with conditions and this puts him in a negative mindset. Even before the competition started, he already complains about it being too humid because of the vicinity of the sea
@@lukasg6504 You gotta check yourself man; his dabbing a bolt has no relation to the discussion of climbing condition in any way. Everybody has a preference, and Adam hardly seems obsessed to the point of being negative about some heat. This whole series is about sharing Adam's experiences and viewpoint as he prepares for the Olympics. This video was literally him talking about what conditions he prefers to climb in (as well as other climbers) and what he's going to do to get ready for Tokyo (practice climbing in a much warmer room). Any negative mindset you read into that is likely just a projection of your own feelings. In regards to your first comment, it's never about just one factor and everybody knows that. To say it's *only* about the mindset of the climber is as wrong as saying it's only about having ideal weather (which literally nobody was insinuating). That's a pretty naive suggestion to begin with and you even negate your own point with a parenthetical note immediately after making it. Adam didn't succeed on Silence just because the conditions were optimal. He didn't succeed that day just because he had the right mindset. He didn't succeed that day because his strength was finally adequate. He also didn't succeed that day just because he had a perfectly balanced diet. There are so many factors that have to come together to succeed when you're at not only your limit, but in Adam's case, the limit. Racecar drivers don't set track records when it's rainingor snowing. You can't perform your best if the conditions aren't also the best.
@@lukasg6504 not sure if you climb but ALL of the top climbers/boulderers are condition sensitive/obsessed. Megos is insane and yes, his mantra on conditions has a nice no nonsense/excuse element to it but, there is also a bit of unrealistic machismo to it. Everyone else is pretty comfortable with their "F climbing hard when it's humid" philosophy. Objective truth is sometimes just that.
it's smart, not obsessive, to acknowledge if you adapt worse to more humidity than other climbers, and recognise that you might have to work on that aspect, esp. if a really extreme version of it awaits you at some olympics. that's just realism
All I wish for is a partner who looks at me like Adam looks at his sandpaper.
Ben Cherry 😂😂😂😂
or who speaks about me as often and as lovingly as Adam speaks about Dr. Cumpelik ^^
@5:32
All I wish would be to know what type of sandpaper this is and what grit.
Really cool to see Adam using a heater to simulate the expected conditions of summer comp climbing. I generally hate the heat but I find I usually get used to it or find ways to deal with it after a while. Also like Alex's attitude of seeing as the heat as a motivation to get stronger.
Love the fact that someone as talented as Adam takes the time to explain things to us beginners. Informative without being patronising, excellent attitude.
Really like the new editing! It was nice to see other climbers views. Thanks for another great episode! Can't wait for next week's.
The lengths Adam goes to to prepare for the Olympics are really inspiring! Keep it up, Adam. I'm sure your hard work will pay off!
Thats where I have been going wrong... Ive been drinking the liquid chalk 😂 Thanks for another great episode Adam, some good tips in here
Clearly You've been taking tips from Magnus Midtbø xD
@@pauldima9402 💯 hahaha
Adam- I have a garage bouldering wall here in Missouri, USA. Very hot and humid. NO charge if you want to come by and practice sometime :-D
Sounds like a place to get strong!
I thought he called the sandpaper “send-paper” lol
A lot of people is on your side. Keep in mind and hold out. All the best.
Really enjoyed this video (and many of your others). Your down-to-earthness is awesome.
"This is sernd paper" best line ever.Love you Adam. Best of luck.
Nice calm editing and perfect non-dominating background music :D
I really only Boulder. Been climbing for 4 years in a gym, only been climbing outdoors once..
I have Raynauds Disease so when I get really stressed or the temperature drops below 60F my feet and hands loose their blood flow and stop functioning. Makes most climbing outdoors incredibly difficult for me. Just something I’ve had to work around.
Even getting to the gym in the winter I have to really get warmed up if the drive was cold because my hands will be numb.
My brother and I are big fans , you get brought up whenever we are at the climbing gym. Go for the gold !! We hope you win
Again, super great video Adam! Really enjoy hearing you share info about these things. Also enjoy all the appearances from other climbers as well :)
Alex Megos keeping it real lol
He's worried about the weight of a few grains of chalk in his chalk bag but he still had a necklace on that weighs loads more
Dear Adam, I am a big fan of yours, yet I still think its more important to see you on the rocks, beating new challenges and making routes like Silence or even harder in the future.... these ninja style competitions simply do suit to a different type of climber... and besides a totally different approach to training, are one of the reason why japanese, or asian athletes in general do excel there. I can see you doing pretty well in lead, but bouldering in the Olympics will be the same crap as it was this year in Hachioji.... and it was a really really bad feeling to see you struggling this heavy, without even having a zone.
You are one of the best, if not the best ROCK climbers in the world, one of the best of a generation and many of us still hope and would like to see a lot of new accomplishments from you on the ROCKS... the world is full of ninjas these days, but there is only a handful of exceptional rock climbers able to push the current limits even higher... and this, at least in my eyes, is your task and your legacy Adam.
4:00 lol, like bouldering in a sauna; sauldering.
Loving the action suspense when the sand paper comes around btw
You understood that you have to optimise every parameters I Love it !
sweat in the summer, strong in the winter!
"it's fucking hundred million degrees"
Sorry you got shafted Adam, I was rooting for you and I'm sure we will see you at the olympics, maybe even carrying CZ flag?
what happened to him im out of the loop
@@kingnakosa3494 Everyone else topped routes that he couldn't get the bonus on. I think he only got one bonus and zero tops.
@@kylenakamura4353 so he didn't get screwed over he just didn't do well enough?
King Nakosa yes lol
@@kylenakamura4353 damn that really sucks but can he still can qualify to right?
Is there ever going to be any footage of your ascent of the Dawn Wall? Just wondering.
I'm pretty sure some footage was on a REEL ROCK 13 i may be wrong though.
@@Radiant26 I do faintly remember some. But why such little footage from such a large ascent?
@@TheScreamingSeal Most likely because Adam didn't want to take any shine away from the film The Dawn Wall. Adam probably respects Tommy and Kevin's achievement and didn't want to overshadow them is my guess. Maybe down the line more will be released about his climb but I think it will be a while.
“I used very little chalk on silence to weigh less” 😂😂😂 i guess that’s why not as good
mad respect for rock climbers. his back is muscular beyond definition.... damn
I love your videos :) and the video quality is A+. I feel like maybe it might be nice to up the audio quality too? Just a thought!
あついですね！
I wish you all the luck and I hope you succed in the Olympics!!
Fun that was fun to watch
Best of luck, Adam :)
I like you're smiling now, after all this confusion. I'll make it next time, I'm sure.
It’s not about the athletes it’s about the crowd and no one wants to be outside in the cold and that’s where a good amount of the money comes from.
Amazing how one of the toughest climbers in the world, who has climbed the hardest routes in the the world, struggles to classify for the olympics...this shows you how tough this sport is and how humble you must be to get to the top, literally and figuraretly
He would’ve qualified if not for the silly disqualification. He didn’t bear any weight on the bolt.
Indoor and plastic holds have moved away from the shapes found on natural rocks.
The issue of setting for multiple dynos also makes it begin to differ more. - Imagine how many pads you'd have to bring to some bouldering areas if routes were like some of those you see in comps.
And clipping in is NOT lead climbing.
Even sport climbs require choosing the right quickdraws. Clipping comps don'tdo it in that way as well.
Speed is like a dog tricks show. While same muscles and even skin are developed, climbing plastic has diverged.
A friend would knock on my door to go free soloing and exploring new areas for bouldering or unknown walls or canyons never within miles of guidebooks (believe me, the west is FULL of constantly new little places!. any hidden canyon far from a road might be something no others have ever climbed - if they are far enough),
we'd sometimes find cold sunny windy places where wind venturis so powerfully that even climbing at 5.10 was scary as you feel big buffets of solid air blasting you off balance points. No indoor ever remotely approaches wild country.
(he did die long ago soloing in Indian Creek when, as others reported, in the total dry, a cloud appeared over his route only, and rained on him. So it's a different sport for each of us. He'd go up places where the wise would not follow)
Nothing like that- weather - happens in any open artificial climbing places, either, with their cushy mamas waiting ever below instead of curious buzzards above. Nor are you ever surprised by the ttttttttttttttt of a rattlesnake holing up in the shade of a big bucket you're reaching to. Or walking by a crag when suddenly a huge chunk of two long established routes comes off, exploding , creating new route opportunities in an old place.
Climbing i s different, more wild and marvelous in the real, although the body feels so good doing it anywhere. It's two or more related sports. A friend once established a new aid route after decades of half dome climbing history. I'm just an impulsive passerby, now & then walking in some other country's desert land, looking up. . . Sometimes climbing is rock, running up long scree, ice, snow - all different, all at once. Ever chopped classic steps up a razorback ridge? or glissaded down avy chutes?
Plastic has its place, and some are less aroused by it, though appreciating it's consistency and the great people in there involved in that other game.
Makes you wonder why the comp is not inside.
It seems obvious that is not that easy to find a place with a 40 meters high roof.
@@SeraphinoII Japan has such a huge climbing scene, I find it hard to believe they can't find a proper venue to host a combined comp indoors.
@@SeraphinoII Bro they build extra buildings for the Olympics, why not a climbing gym?
world championships in Hachioji were inside
I understand. It was hard seeing you fail in Hachioji.
Hot and humid. Singapore basically.
"Send Paper" is what I hear, think I'm going to keep calling it that lol
I'm building a bouldering wall in my garage and I'm using wood holds... What do you think of wooden climbing holds?
But I also have a heater in there to control the conditions I train in 😁
i am obviously not adam, but wood holds suck, lol. totally ok to switch things up, but only? if you got access to a stone drill, prep some nice rocks, if you want to avoid buying polyurethan holds
@@goartist great recommendation! Thanks!!!
Keep crushing !💪
Adam was actually disqualified from training in this video as he stood on a bolt hold at 6:49
I think he's standing on a small chip to the left of the bolt...
same judgement quality as the judges in japan... he is standing on a small foothold. just take a closer look
Each one of you finger looks like a great white shark! 🦈
"He likes it cold" -- stranger things
I guess I makes sense to reduce the amount of chalk in view of Tokio preparation, so that your body learns to sweat less
Adam, I am new to climbing on youtube and am interested to find out what you do to handle your weak points? I have noticed, in bouldering, that you are either the best or one of the best on just about every type
of move, except, some dynamic moves.
I am very much a fan, so much that I stopped watching the recent comp when you were removed from the top eight. Pardon me if my terminology is not quite correct.
The only thing I really learned from this video is to not fill my chalk bag too much to save weight.
Wish Adam would have commented about anti-sweat products like special creams, which are source of polemics :-)
Yeah, what about antihydral Adam? ;-)
Adam: think of it like this- hot and humid is the 2nd best comp conditions for those of us with sweatier hands. Best is cold and dry, but if it is super humid, EVERYONE suffers, even the dry-skin guys. So it is an equalizer. Worst case is medium temp/humidity, then the dry-skins will kill us! (or me anyway!). The one nice thing is sweatier skin seems to recover faster between sessions.
He should wear a comp shirt when training because bare feels much better in warmer temperatures and he's not allowed to go bare when competing.
But then you can’t train as hard.
Come to my local gym! 90 degree heat in a ware house with no AC lol
Ciao Adam... Mi è diapiciuto.. Giuro ho pianto per te..., ma cavoli a me non sembra che hai toccato la presa.... Insomma ti fai il mazzo... Come gli altri... Ma perché... Perché.... Ti si vuol bene... Dai... Dai.... Dai Adam... Che noi ci crediamo in te.
Before going to Tokyo, don't forget your toothed file, also... ^^
Sendpaper. Got it
Tropical climbing conditions, nice.
.
Does anyone know where i can buy the hat Alex Megos wears? 2:11
Keep your cool even when it’s hot
Wait, did he not make the olympics?
Yes 😢
At the previous competition Ondra allegedly stepped on a bolt and as a result of IFSC rules he was marked down heavily and did not get enough points to qualify. There are other competitions but he didn't qualify through this one.
ua-cam.com/video/m9whdUV7h8A/v-deo.html
No offense to the comp climbers as I'm sure there is a bivy and in comp medium, they all hang quite well against Adam but, a Ondra-less Olympics would make it an official bust of lameness.
@@greenie62 He hasn't qualified YET. Huge difference.
I wonder if there are any climbers that actually prefer hot and humid conditions. Climbing, like every land sport, is easier to do when it is slightly colder.
Can you dedicade one episode on how to get as much skin that i would need sandpaper? xD
climb 10h / d. episode over ;-P ;)
Screech is on UA-cam 😂
Random thought... perhaps climbing should be part of the winter Olympics?!
Adam, if you think Tokyo is bad you better not come to Texas 😂
Try climb in Australia then...
lol Australians or at least myself dont care as long as it aint above like 27 Celsius
They should just do 3 medals for climbing
Can anyone fill me in can ondra still make olympics?
I think he could still qualify at the European Championships. But there is only one spot available there.
November.
If you consider 34 is extreme heat aviod the middle east
Can' t they do it indoors and use air conditioning?
He is not gonna go to olympics???
I think he still has another chance to qualify
What chalk do you use Adam ?
Pretty sure he poured a bag of black gold into his bag in the video.
Had to skip the part where he sands his fingers
Keeps his chalk bag at 1/3 to keep the weight down?!?! If it was crammed 100% full with a brick of chalk, it might add an extra ounce.
That’s a practical thing.. if it’s too full u can’t get your hand in easy and more chalk than usual apologies everywhere
Autocorrect fail. Apologies = s p l o o g e s
@@owen9535 I get that. It's just NOT because of weight, though. It's because of practicality.
Sandpaper? More like *sendpaper*
Awesome
Did anyone else hear it as "SendPaper"?
Try to climb in spain in august D:
Alex Megos is the best! If you can not do the climb, you are too weak. Personally, I belive it depends all on your mindset (being strong helps of course. A 6a climber won't climb an 8a just because of the right mindset). If you believe you can only climb strongly when it's cold and dry, then you will always fail when conditions aren't "perfect". And you will always blame wrong conditions when failing. Be honest to yourself and ask yourself why you could not do the climb in perfect conditions. I mean, if it were so dependent on the conditions, why didn't Adam succeed on silence earlier? There must have been days with perfect conditions in his many tries before the successful one
Truth of the matter is, it's not a black and white thing. Conditions matter, but so does fitness, how you're feeling on that particular day, etc.
@@UnicycleSoul agreed! I just wanted to point out that Adam seems really obsessed with conditions and this puts him in a negative mindset. Even before the competition started, he already complains about it being too humid because of the vicinity of the sea
@@lukasg6504 You gotta check yourself man; his dabbing a bolt has no relation to the discussion of climbing condition in any way. Everybody has a preference, and Adam hardly seems obsessed to the point of being negative about some heat. This whole series is about sharing Adam's experiences and viewpoint as he prepares for the Olympics. This video was literally him talking about what conditions he prefers to climb in (as well as other climbers) and what he's going to do to get ready for Tokyo (practice climbing in a much warmer room). Any negative mindset you read into that is likely just a projection of your own feelings.
In regards to your first comment, it's never about just one factor and everybody knows that. To say it's *only* about the mindset of the climber is as wrong as saying it's only about having ideal weather (which literally nobody was insinuating). That's a pretty naive suggestion to begin with and you even negate your own point with a parenthetical note immediately after making it.
Adam didn't succeed on Silence just because the conditions were optimal. He didn't succeed that day just because he had the right mindset. He didn't succeed that day because his strength was finally adequate. He also didn't succeed that day just because he had a perfectly balanced diet. There are so many factors that have to come together to succeed when you're at not only your limit, but in Adam's case, the limit.
Racecar drivers don't set track records when it's rainingor snowing. You can't perform your best if the conditions aren't also the best.
@@lukasg6504 not sure if you climb but ALL of the top climbers/boulderers are condition sensitive/obsessed.
Megos is insane and yes, his mantra on conditions has a nice no nonsense/excuse element to it but, there is also a bit of unrealistic machismo to it. Everyone else is pretty comfortable with their "F climbing hard when it's humid" philosophy. Objective truth is sometimes just that.
it's smart, not obsessive, to acknowledge if you adapt worse to more humidity than other climbers, and recognise that you might have to work on that aspect, esp. if a really extreme version of it awaits you at some olympics. that's just realism
So what you're saying is that it shouldn't be million fucking degrees?
I have perfect skin for climbing. it exist
Thanks for sharing, Strongsixpack.
@@CSRgamer ahaha lol
On gecko feet.
Jey i'm the first