Wow, this took me back. I've done similar mods on Motobecane AV7 cases but because of their size I was able to make jigs and do this in a lathe. Your research and explanation of engine case differences was spot on. I took screen-shots for my notes. Great vid, thanks!
These videos are extremely satisfying. And again I am not even interested in scooters but you are very intelligent and I appreciate that...... and you are really good at making videos too!
Awesome job! I've been toying with this idea for a while. This was kind of the design I've had envisioned. If I do get something built I would happily send you some pics.
You can juse the old smal krank and weld 3 ore five dots on it en dan you cut it in the propper diameters then you grind a half moon in the weld s grind some of the old crank where the bearings sit and there you go
I have seen others use the crank, or part of it, as a cutting tool. Pretty efficient idea. Some have made them adjustable so you can cut different diameters or make multiple small cuts to get where you want. I've used mine on many Minarelli and Honda Dio/Elite engines at this point and I'm still very happy with it.
Very nice man I am amazed that actually worked I was thinking of doing a stroker on my 1e40qmb motor but was a bit worried about what you have just solved to the lathe I go and after the drill press will give it a shot I got 2 spare motors to play with so this should be a fun project that may make things much easier than I had thought would be and also much cheaper.
Appreciate the information, I'm located in Mexico but I used to live in the US, but down here is very very very common to see the Yamaha bws/zuma 100 and the vento Triton and the grand axis 100, if anyone wants any parts and engines I can send them to you in the U.S or anywhere
Awesome to see you starting your own machine work! I recently got a lathe (first a 7x10 and now a 9x20) and table top mill, they really open up the possibilities for taking projects to the next level and potentially saving money. if you haven't already seen them, two youtube channels I would highly suggest are abom79 and oxtoolco - there is a goldmine of machining information on them and other channels. if you want you could spec out a different cutter for the boring bar you are using - a larger radius on the tip of the cutter will help with the surface finish and give a better transition when you reach the end of the cut at the bottom of the trench. you can also spec a much sharper cutter intended for aluminum which will greatly reduce the strain on the drill, the impact of the interrupted cut and flex in your fixture/bearing holder.
Yeah, there are a few very good machine shop kinda youtubers. I have lots to learn, but hopefully I'll improve over time. Even with my limited knowledge, I've done some useful stuff with the lathe already.
and 1 more tip try creating a bench where you can screw down the whole case i dont like taking chances when a case is twitching like in the end i want that sucker in one place but for the rest great job on designing that nice diy tool for us keep it up
I guess they are Jog 90 parts, but I've never worked with an actual Yamaha Jog 90. Here in the US, the parts are most commonly from youth ATVs. There were a bunch of 2T ATVs with Minarelli engines for awhile. Polaris made 50, 70 and 90cc versions for example, but there were quite a few manufacturers. Some were even liquid cooled and aimed more at the youth racing scene, like DRR/DRX ATVs. Here's an ATV site where you can find some of this stuff : www.gforcemx.com/pages/atv-parts
Hey I am working on a zuma that I'm having trouble with the 90 cc build and machining... Please reply so I I can ask u some questions... U are the smartest scooter mechanic on the web
Thanks for all your info so far, very helpful and thorough. My question is...when you build a stroker with a bbk Ac or LC, do you go with a 12mm wrist pin crank and bore kit or stay with the 10mm?
The 90cc should have a longer rod. Check all dimensions if you're trying to replace one. 50cc should be an 80mm rod. 90cc stuff that I've had has commonly been 83-84mm.
very cool idea, my way of doing it is on a magnetic drill but i still had to make a centering tool for the drill but the finish i great because the drill is very stable
Great guide to the case's you can use. That tool worried out so well. Like you said it you had a drill press it would make it more controlled. Still works fine though.
if u do the shallow side first then flip the bar around, put the cases together and cut the other side, then u will have perfect match at the join and it will be more stable, also use sum kind of flex joint between drill and bar and it remove any side to side input u may put into the drill, works good as is just thought i give sum ideas, cheers
Thanks. It takes so long for me to make them, plus cost of materials, that I don't think it would really pay for me to do it.... plus I don't hear of that many stroker Minarellis anymore.
hey i like to know if i need to mill my case on my linhia 49cc. the case number is 1e50fm ? and 8 more number under it that is 50100012. thank you if you could get back to me
Fantasic info Dude. Keep it up. Question for you. Have you ever done a clip on putting the stroker crank into the cases once you have machined them?? I'm just wanting to make sure I know all there is to know about how to do the port timing correctly. Any help would make you a god amoung scooter riders. Cheers
I've never done a video about stroker crank install and timing. I've got crank install videos, but just showing how they go in. I've got a big thread about this scooter on my forum and I've detailed every time I've built one of these strokers if I used spacers or modified anything and what timings were and so on. 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/436/triton-2-t2-89-110cc
I haven't had a problem with it. When in use, they will have oil on them so that helps. After install (when things are back to room temp) you can spray them with WD-40 or oil them.
Simple idea. Put eg a bike wheel etc Instead of drillpress lowering handles...you then have a much larger diameter and can lower in much smaller increments for a finer cut.
Apart from increasing the displacement, are there other advantages for strokers? I may think at better yield or torque... I have just did my first upgrade of a stock 1E40QMB-2 to a 47 bore. By the way, I have no idea what the "-2" from the mark of the engine stands for, it's mounted on a ZNEN ZN50QT-19C that I acctually find nothing about. :) And I was thinking to upgrade the crankshaft too... Thank you for all the videos and instructions, amazing DIY channel!
Torque and power at low revs is good with the setups like I build. If you just want to tool around under 9,000RPM mostly, it's hard to beat the 90cc+ stuff. There are lots of 70cc setups that will make more power, but they do it at higher RPM. A big stroker crank isn't good for a standard stroke cylinder. Throws timings off too much and you have a lot of issues to deal with getting clearances right. 41.4mm stroker may work alright, but you probably won't get big gains from it. If the crank is in good shape, without lots of miles on it, it's likely fine. You start to run into trouble with stock cranks with high revving builds, and then a quality crank is a good idea. I'm not sure about the -2.
Thanks a lot! Before my plastic drive gear from the oil pump cracked after 4800 Km (I run kinda 200 Km without noticing the lack of smoke, my bad), I used to push the engine till 9000 rpm. Then, the horror story you mention in one post! :( I suppose the new setup with the 70cc will work pretty similar in terms of rpm, but I have to pass the purgatory of 1000 Km break in to see it (or not?). But I revenged by taking out all those ugly items related to oil pump and switched to pre-mixing now! So I understand is not worthing to change the crankshaft now, I checked it and is still fine. But I really like to experiment on my scooter and I was curious about the benefits driving you to build strokers.
If you check out my vids, you'll see that I like long rides. I think I'd do better with strokers making more power at low revs for this stuff than I would with higher revving setups to make similar power. For what I do, sport to mid-race 70s can work OK though. I think being a fat dude (300lb) makes the torque more of a necessity for ease of use too.
The idea is pretty nice and well made, the only thing i would have changed is the play on the shaft where the bearings are located. The best would have been to make an interference matching, ofc undoable in this case for simple slicing reasons. Btw also with a play matching i wouldn't surpass 0.02mm of play. Just in order to get a better surface finish wout vibrations! anyways great job m8
I think the ones with fat rear tires are long case. You can count the bolts on the CVT cover and check. 8 bolts should be short case, 10 bolts should be long case.
Multiple places. I get stuff from eBay, PartsForScooters, kaseaparts, g-forcepowersports, and possibly anywhere else that comes up if I'm searching for something in particular. They're not nearly as common as the stuff for 70cc or high end builds, but they're out there.
lol I reply to anyone that's not being a clown basically. Check on the forum if you're considering making this. A much more experienced machinist modified the idea so it is dual purpose and cuts the cases for both the crank and the cylinder. 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/10392/cutting-cases-accept-cranks-matching?page=1
Good afternoon great invention I would like to know if you will make it to sell it and if you do how much you will sell it I would like to purchase one very interested in one of those thank you very much I hope I hear from you thank you I appreciate it.
90GTVert i thought that u lock the carbite cutter tightly so that mean needs to lock the cutter not too loosen so it dont fall so fast and not too tight or it wont fall
Ow...i get it now i think i want to make special tool.like yours hehehe...thanks for the idea...keep making such informative video yeah...love all the vdeo u posted
Don't forget to look in the video description if you haven't already. I laid out a full plan with measurements and part numbers for the whole thing to help anyone interesting in making their own.
That’s what I should have made to enlarge my CVT case instead of a few hours of using a rotary burr. Maybe next time I’ll try and do something like this for the inside of the CVT using the existing clutch shaft hole/bearing.
Its great tool try on getting your bench press drill fixed so it go in reverse which is going to give you a better grip on lowering your bit finishing it off is just with some sand paper round the 500 just to give it that polish finish but yeah great tool takes away the time you would spend on doing it manually with a dremel
Thanks. I doubt that I'm gonna worry about it too much. It's so much nicer after being used to a rotary tool. I don't have any big complaints with it; I just wanted to point out what I experienced so no one would try to build one expecting anything it doesn't deliver.
Prob too expensive to be worth it. It takes me a long time, plus materials. That's why I released full plans for what I did so others could make them or have parts made.
You should import yourself an Aerox. That way you already have all the good stuff like front & rear disc brakes and liquid cooling and also a nice body style like lots of fairings and aftermarket suspension and engine kits available for it and 13" wheels STANDARD. so you aren;t chasing your tail upgrading parts that it already has. I could help finding one locally if you wanted to import one
That's for rich people. I am not one of those. Multiple people on the forum have looked into it and it's expensive to do in the US. I've had T2, the 2T that I ride the most, for more than 10 years and it's not really lacking much that I want in a frame at this point. I don't think there is another small scoot that I'd like better than it right now because I've made it my own. Besides, if it were just right standard... I'd still change it around.
@Kevin Stearns if you're looking for more torque in general. Yes a stroker is a great addition. Finding a cylinder that's also suitable for the stroker is a great way to get good torque and power. Even if you stick to the more tame 90cc cylinders and such. Not saying there's anything wrong with a 70cc either as they can still hit speeds above 70.mph.without giving much of a fuss. But if you're more in the "reliable daily torque monster" then a stroker and even a 47mm piston will make a nice difference.
I don't think there would be much point if you mean the Aerox 100. It would need a lot of work to adapt to the stud spacing. Then the cylinders available for the Aerox 100 are all mild AFAIK. It would make more sense to adapt an MX cylinder with some serious transfer area. Again, lots of work though. Easy solution is to go with one of the kits that comes with an adapter and has a cylinder modeled after an MX jug. I believe Stage6 R/T is one example. I don't follow high end stuff too much though. It's costly.
Friend, I would like you to manufacture that tool for me. I would pay whatever I am interested in making my engine bigger with a Carrera 44 Crankshaft.
So may setups out there. If you want the best then you'll prob be after something like the Malossi RC-One or some of the more rare stuff like Cristofolini. The Malossi engine is about $4,000. Lots of stuff that's not the best that's still a whole lot of fun for a whole lot less.
@@49ccscoot thanks for the reply. Maybe I should rephrase that, I want to build it to the best that I can do, which is no where near 4k lol. Thanks for so the work you have put into your channel I found a handful of videos that will help me climb the learning curve.
@@frankh.3849 I hear ya. I wish I could afford that stuff to play with, but it ain't happening. If you actually want to ride much, I don't think those are the best anyway. Too much compromise for speed.
I put up plans so anyone could have them made because it would never really pay to make these for me. With the mini-lathe and not being a pro, it takes me a long time to get one made. Someone with a big lathe and more experience could probably knock the shaft and bearing seats out quickly.
You should spinn fast when cutting aluminium. And you should Never touch the cutting tip against metal if your not spinning the drill. Because you Will ruin the tip and it Will get doul. Its pretty much in destructable when your spinning
I was new to it and that sucker will grab hard so I was trying not to go hard. Since then, I spin fast but I do still go slow to start because the drill pushes back so hard if it grabs.
90GTVert it Will grab easier if you go slow, the reason why it would be grabbig might be that you move it down to fast. At machining school we turned and Milled aluminium at 2200 rpm because thats the highest setting. 3000-3400 i think was the optimal rpm.
@@vhjvbhjb5280 It does grab easier going slow, but when getting started it can be tough to not have it grab. When it grabs with the larger drill wound up, it's a pretty hard hit. At least it doesn't try to break my wrist if it happens with less vigor.
90GTVert are you using a Cordeless drill That stops directly when you let of the trigger you Will most Likely be fine. And on most drills you can change the setting so That it stops rotating at a certain Nm. And to prevent it from grabing even more. You can take smaller steps so 0,5mm per cut. Thats of course +1mm of the diameter.
@@vhjvbhjb5280 I've only got corded stuff. Last experiences with cordless was long ago when batteries were pretty awful. I need to move into the modern era.
Wow, this took me back. I've done similar mods on Motobecane AV7 cases but because of their size I was able to make jigs and do this in a lathe. Your research and explanation of engine case differences was spot on. I took screen-shots for my notes. Great vid, thanks!
this is an absolutely awesome idea for a diy case cutting tool. well done man, well done!
Thanks!
It's always amazing to watch someone work that know their shit and this guy definitely knows it. He seems to be a wealth of knowledge just amazing!!
These videos are extremely satisfying. And again I am not even interested in scooters but you are very intelligent and I appreciate that...... and you are really good at making videos too!
Thanks again!
Awesome job! I've been toying with this idea for a while. This was kind of the design I've had envisioned. If I do get something built I would happily send you some pics.
You can juse the old smal krank and weld 3 ore five dots on it en dan you cut it in the propper diameters then you grind a half moon in the weld s grind some of the old crank where the bearings sit and there you go
I have seen others use the crank, or part of it, as a cutting tool. Pretty efficient idea. Some have made them adjustable so you can cut different diameters or make multiple small cuts to get where you want. I've used mine on many Minarelli and Honda Dio/Elite engines at this point and I'm still very happy with it.
Very nice man I am amazed that actually worked I was thinking of doing a stroker on my 1e40qmb motor but was a bit worried about what you have just solved to the lathe I go and after the drill press will give it a shot I got 2 spare motors to play with so this should be a fun project that may make things much easier than I had thought would be and also much cheaper.
Appreciate the information, I'm located in Mexico but I used to live in the US, but down here is very very very common to see the Yamaha bws/zuma 100 and the vento Triton and the grand axis 100, if anyone wants any parts and engines I can send them to you in the U.S or anywhere
Hey Im looking for 1e52qmg long cases, let me know if you still can find them
@@Winner3ty I don't know by codes lol but actually here in my shop I have a Bws 100 case if that works, let me know
@@Winner3ty you can check my shop on IG @Taller.1127
@@Magic_Mike1127 1e52qmg is triton 100 engine. the bws engine wouldnt work
@@Winner3ty yeah, there is one for sale, send me PM on my IG @taller.1127
Well, I think it's FANTASTIC! The only thing I would add is a worm gear on the top portion shaft?
Awesome to see you starting your own machine work! I recently got a lathe (first a 7x10 and now a 9x20) and table top mill, they really open up the possibilities for taking projects to the next level and potentially saving money. if you haven't already seen them, two youtube channels I would highly suggest are abom79 and oxtoolco - there is a goldmine of machining information on them and other channels. if you want you could spec out a different cutter for the boring bar you are using - a larger radius on the tip of the cutter will help with the surface finish and give a better transition when you reach the end of the cut at the bottom of the trench. you can also spec a much sharper cutter intended for aluminum which will greatly reduce the strain on the drill, the impact of the interrupted cut and flex in your fixture/bearing holder.
Yeah, there are a few very good machine shop kinda youtubers. I have lots to learn, but hopefully I'll improve over time. Even with my limited knowledge, I've done some useful stuff with the lathe already.
Pretty impressed by your technique! Really good idea you got there. Keep up the good work!
Thanks!
Well very nice job a lot of effort and planing respect for you to filming everything on top.
Thank you.
and 1 more tip
try creating a bench where you can screw down the whole case
i dont like taking chances when a case is twitching like in the end
i want that sucker in one place
but for the rest great job on designing that
nice diy tool for us
keep it up
Awesome work 😎👁️🐯
hey, the sprocket seen in this video, has same spline as JOG50 CY50?, being in Australia im not familiar what models these sprockets come from. Cheers
It matches up to Chinese scoot wheels that fit 1E40QMBs. I think those match Jogs, but I can't recall for sure.
Thanks for reply, so what ATV does the sprocket in the video come from?@@49ccscoot
@@Keicarshop Polaris 90 (Sportsman, Predator, Outlaw)
pod jaki wał to robiłeś ?? nie umiem żadnego wału o większym skoku znaleźć :( i co to za cylinder ?? kiedyś miałem 103cc to chyba to ale nie wiem
I guess they are Jog 90 parts, but I've never worked with an actual Yamaha Jog 90. Here in the US, the parts are most commonly from youth ATVs. There were a bunch of 2T ATVs with Minarelli engines for awhile. Polaris made 50, 70 and 90cc versions for example, but there were quite a few manufacturers. Some were even liquid cooled and aimed more at the youth racing scene, like DRR/DRX ATVs. Here's an ATV site where you can find some of this stuff : www.gforcemx.com/pages/atv-parts
Hey I am working on a zuma that I'm having trouble with the 90 cc build and machining... Please reply so I I can ask u some questions... U are the smartest scooter mechanic on the web
I wish I were the smartest, but thanks. What's up?
Thanks for all your info so far, very helpful and thorough. My question is...when you build a stroker with a bbk Ac or LC, do you go with a 12mm wrist pin crank and bore kit or stay with the 10mm?
Go with 12mm. Some of the high end kits have even larger pins.
Would you mind if you make 1 more cutting tool like your for sale?
Awesome tool!
Thanks Alex!
Sir can i ask something is there any difference between the conecting rod of jog 90cc and 50cc engine
The 90cc should have a longer rod. Check all dimensions if you're trying to replace one. 50cc should be an 80mm rod. 90cc stuff that I've had has commonly been 83-84mm.
very cool idea, my way of doing it is on a magnetic drill but i still had to make a centering tool for the drill but the finish i great because the drill is very stable
Great guide to the case's you can use. That tool worried out so well. Like you said it you had a drill press it would make it more controlled. Still works fine though.
Thanks Bud. I noted the issues so no one made their own and was surprised, but I don't really have trouble using it as-is so far.
if u do the shallow side first then flip the bar around, put the cases together and cut the other side, then u will have perfect match at the join and it will be more stable, also use sum kind of flex joint between drill and bar and it remove any side to side input u may put into the drill, works good as is just thought i give sum ideas, cheers
The site won't load for me so had to comment here...
When will you be marketing this? It's brilliant Brent!
Thanks. It takes so long for me to make them, plus cost of materials, that I don't think it would really pay for me to do it.... plus I don't hear of that many stroker Minarellis anymore.
The fucking god is back!!
How much would you charge to build the boring bar set up.... great idea. If u built them in sure there’d b a market. I’d be willing to buy 1
Just the boring bar or the whole thing? Have to figure out what it costs me.
90GTVert the whole set up. Yea figure out the cost and let me know. It looks like it works pretty well
@@49ccscootif this is still a thing, I would love a setup to bore the webbing area in my crank cases!!
So cool haha, You really are a god of scooters
amazing in depth information. appreciated
hey i like to know if i need to mill my case on my linhia 49cc. the case number is 1e50fm ? and 8 more number under it that is 50100012. thank you if you could get back to me
Awesome job
GOOD JOB BROTHER GOOD WORK!!
Fantasic info Dude. Keep it up. Question for you. Have you ever done a clip on putting the stroker crank into the cases once you have machined them?? I'm just wanting to make sure I know all there is to know about how to do the port timing correctly. Any help would make you a god amoung scooter riders. Cheers
I've never done a video about stroker crank install and timing. I've got crank install videos, but just showing how they go in. I've got a big thread about this scooter on my forum and I've detailed every time I've built one of these strokers if I used spacers or modified anything and what timings were and so on. 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/436/triton-2-t2-89-110cc
Will my bearings and crankshaft rust if i'll use freezing-spray to install the bearings and crankshaft?
I haven't had a problem with it. When in use, they will have oil on them so that helps. After install (when things are back to room temp) you can spray them with WD-40 or oil them.
90GTVert Thank you man :)
Simple idea. Put eg a bike wheel etc Instead of drillpress lowering handles...you then have a much larger diameter and can lower in much smaller increments for a finer cut.
Apart from increasing the displacement, are there other advantages for strokers? I may think at better yield or torque... I have just did my first upgrade of a stock 1E40QMB-2 to a 47 bore. By the way, I have no idea what the "-2" from the mark of the engine stands for, it's mounted on a ZNEN ZN50QT-19C that I acctually find nothing about. :) And I was thinking to upgrade the crankshaft too... Thank you for all the videos and instructions, amazing DIY channel!
Torque and power at low revs is good with the setups like I build. If you just want to tool around under 9,000RPM mostly, it's hard to beat the 90cc+ stuff. There are lots of 70cc setups that will make more power, but they do it at higher RPM. A big stroker crank isn't good for a standard stroke cylinder. Throws timings off too much and you have a lot of issues to deal with getting clearances right. 41.4mm stroker may work alright, but you probably won't get big gains from it. If the crank is in good shape, without lots of miles on it, it's likely fine. You start to run into trouble with stock cranks with high revving builds, and then a quality crank is a good idea.
I'm not sure about the -2.
Thanks a lot! Before my plastic drive gear from the oil pump cracked after 4800 Km (I run kinda 200 Km without noticing the lack of smoke, my bad), I used to push the engine till 9000 rpm. Then, the horror story you mention in one post! :( I suppose the new setup with the 70cc will work pretty similar in terms of rpm, but I have to pass the purgatory of 1000 Km break in to see it (or not?). But I revenged by taking out all those ugly items related to oil pump and switched to pre-mixing now! So I understand is not worthing to change the crankshaft now, I checked it and is still fine. But I really like to experiment on my scooter and I was curious about the benefits driving you to build strokers.
If you check out my vids, you'll see that I like long rides. I think I'd do better with strokers making more power at low revs for this stuff than I would with higher revving setups to make similar power. For what I do, sport to mid-race 70s can work OK though. I think being a fat dude (300lb) makes the torque more of a necessity for ease of use too.
Thanks for sharing . You r the best .
Can I put a stroker crank on my kasea 90 without cutting? if so what size?
Also its the 2004 skyhawk 90 to be correct
I've put 45mm stroke cranks into 90cc cases before without mods.
This is good skill👍
The idea is pretty nice and well made, the only thing i would have changed is the play on the shaft where the bearings are located. The best would have been to make an interference matching, ofc undoable in this case for simple slicing reasons. Btw also with a play matching i wouldn't surpass 0.02mm of play. Just in order to get a better surface finish wout vibrations! anyways great job m8
I have icebear maddog clone 49cc 4storck 1p139QMB 50cc is that a 50cc long case it has the fetty tires
I think the ones with fat rear tires are long case. You can count the bolts on the CVT cover and check. 8 bolts should be short case, 10 bolts should be long case.
Where do you get the parts to build the parts for a 90cc 1e40qmb
Multiple places. I get stuff from eBay, PartsForScooters, kaseaparts, g-forcepowersports, and possibly anywhere else that comes up if I'm searching for something in particular. They're not nearly as common as the stuff for 70cc or high end builds, but they're out there.
I can't believe you replied awesome you really know your stuff my tool and die is laking I will watch against an follow your recipe thanks
lol I reply to anyone that's not being a clown basically. Check on the forum if you're considering making this. A much more experienced machinist modified the idea so it is dual purpose and cuts the cases for both the crank and the cylinder.
49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/10392/cutting-cases-accept-cranks-matching?page=1
Very clever !
I try to make an engine with bidalot 50wr derbi euro 3 and minarelli case
Could always touch it up with a rotary tool and a flap disk after machining it
y not make s slotted guide for the milling bit on a die grinder so the grinder moved an a fixed area
A forum member has done something similar to that idea, using a router and a guide plate.
Pretty damned ingenious! Square hole and a right hand lathe cutter and you can use the drill press
With the Support bearing and Set up in a drill press that Tool would work almost perfect!
In Germany we do this often, my son can even do this, couse i teached him
Good afternoon great invention I would like to know if you will make it to sell it and if you do how much you will sell it I would like to purchase one very interested in one of those thank you very much I hope I hear from you thank you I appreciate it.
It takes me so long to make that I couldn't be profitable without a really high price.
How do u make the carbite cutter drop automaticly downward?
Gravity. lol You get a feel for controlling it and again gravity will naturally make it want to fall downward.
90GTVert i thought that u lock the carbite cutter tightly so that mean needs to lock the cutter not too loosen so it dont fall so fast and not too tight or it wont fall
There is resistance, so the cutter doesn't slide really easily through both bearings, but it's largely controlled by the user.
Ow...i get it now i think i want to make special tool.like yours hehehe...thanks for the idea...keep making such informative video yeah...love all the vdeo u posted
Don't forget to look in the video description if you haven't already. I laid out a full plan with measurements and part numbers for the whole thing to help anyone interesting in making their own.
You made it good tools Bro wow
What would you charge to do this ? Dont need it just wondering
Build a tool or cut cases? Not really sure either way TBH. Shipping would suck for sending cases 2 ways.
90GTVert i was thinking case cuts.
Is this tool available for sale
No. Sorry.
That’s what I should have made to enlarge my CVT case instead of a few hours of using a rotary burr.
Maybe next time I’ll try and do something like this for the inside of the CVT using the existing clutch shaft hole/bearing.
great work!
Thanks!
Its great tool
try on getting your bench press drill fixed so it go in reverse which is going to give you a better grip on lowering your bit
finishing it off is just with some sand paper round the 500 just to give it that polish finish
but yeah great tool
takes away the time you would spend on doing it manually with a dremel
Thanks. I doubt that I'm gonna worry about it too much. It's so much nicer after being used to a rotary tool. I don't have any big complaints with it; I just wanted to point out what I experienced so no one would try to build one expecting anything it doesn't deliver.
How much to make 1. For aale
Prob too expensive to be worth it. It takes me a long time, plus materials. That's why I released full plans for what I did so others could make them or have parts made.
You should import yourself an Aerox. That way you already have all the good stuff like front & rear disc brakes and liquid cooling and also a nice body style like lots of fairings and aftermarket suspension and engine kits available for it and 13" wheels STANDARD. so you aren;t chasing your tail upgrading parts that it already has. I could help finding one locally if you wanted to import one
That's for rich people. I am not one of those. Multiple people on the forum have looked into it and it's expensive to do in the US. I've had T2, the 2T that I ride the most, for more than 10 years and it's not really lacking much that I want in a frame at this point. I don't think there is another small scoot that I'd like better than it right now because I've made it my own. Besides, if it were just right standard... I'd still change it around.
Amazing tools
Wow, you're s genious
You could of used the cover with spacers as the tool support.
nie ma żadnego wału do kupienia z tej listy quadów :(
Parts are getting less common for the older 2Ts.
Can I buy this tool. I really dont want to take my cases to a machine shop lol
@Kevin Stearns is what worth it.
@Kevin Stearns if you're looking for more torque in general. Yes a stroker is a great addition. Finding a cylinder that's also suitable for the stroker is a great way to get good torque and power.
Even if you stick to the more tame 90cc cylinders and such.
Not saying there's anything wrong with a 70cc either as they can still hit speeds above 70.mph.without giving much of a fuss. But if you're more in the "reliable daily torque monster" then a stroker and even a 47mm piston will make a nice difference.
so cool.!
You have contact info had a couple questions
Yup. It's on my site.
Can you make me a case cutter more than happy to purchase I own a Vento Triton r4 mint condition 78 miles on the dash going big cc max possible
i already see a aerox bb kit diy in the near future
I don't think there would be much point if you mean the Aerox 100. It would need a lot of work to adapt to the stud spacing. Then the cylinders available for the Aerox 100 are all mild AFAIK. It would make more sense to adapt an MX cylinder with some serious transfer area. Again, lots of work though. Easy solution is to go with one of the kits that comes with an adapter and has a cylinder modeled after an MX jug. I believe Stage6 R/T is one example. I don't follow high end stuff too much though. It's costly.
Friend, I would like you to manufacture that tool for me. I would pay whatever I am interested in making my engine bigger with a Carrera 44 Crankshaft.
Friend, I would like you to create this tool for me so that I can raise the crankshaft stroke of my motorcycle. I will pay what you ask
i live in south america
and dude
there are crankshaft just wastinh here
there like stones lol
1pe40qmb...... That's what I got. I'm looking to build it to the best it can be
So may setups out there. If you want the best then you'll prob be after something like the Malossi RC-One or some of the more rare stuff like Cristofolini. The Malossi engine is about $4,000. Lots of stuff that's not the best that's still a whole lot of fun for a whole lot less.
@@49ccscoot thanks for the reply. Maybe I should rephrase that, I want to build it to the best that I can do, which is no where near 4k lol. Thanks for so the work you have put into your channel I found a handful of videos that will help me climb the learning curve.
@@frankh.3849 I hear ya. I wish I could afford that stuff to play with, but it ain't happening. If you actually want to ride much, I don't think those are the best anyway. Too much compromise for speed.
Will I'm new on this and on learning SSI disability
So you're a SPED?
Would you consider maken me a tool
I put up plans so anyone could have them made because it would never really pay to make these for me. With the mini-lathe and not being a pro, it takes me a long time to get one made. Someone with a big lathe and more experience could probably knock the shaft and bearing seats out quickly.
@thisoldtony can help you with this project
I watch him and I'm sure he could, but I've used this cutter quite a few times now and it's working well for me.
fucking good idée man respetc nice
holy shit youre cutting huge chunks/strips off,better off a diamond grounding tool?
This has worked well for me as shown so far.
You should spinn fast when cutting aluminium. And you should Never touch the cutting tip against metal if your not spinning the drill. Because you Will ruin the tip and it Will get doul. Its pretty much in destructable when your spinning
I was new to it and that sucker will grab hard so I was trying not to go hard. Since then, I spin fast but I do still go slow to start because the drill pushes back so hard if it grabs.
90GTVert it Will grab easier if you go slow, the reason why it would be grabbig might be that you move it down to fast. At machining school we turned and Milled aluminium at 2200 rpm because thats the highest setting. 3000-3400 i think was the optimal rpm.
@@vhjvbhjb5280 It does grab easier going slow, but when getting started it can be tough to not have it grab. When it grabs with the larger drill wound up, it's a pretty hard hit. At least it doesn't try to break my wrist if it happens with less vigor.
90GTVert are you using a Cordeless drill That stops directly when you let of the trigger you Will most Likely be fine. And on most drills you can change the setting so That it stops rotating at a certain Nm. And to prevent it from grabing even more. You can take smaller steps so 0,5mm per cut. Thats of course +1mm of the diameter.
@@vhjvbhjb5280 I've only got corded stuff. Last experiences with cordless was long ago when batteries were pretty awful. I need to move into the modern era.
Please
that's using your noggin
Get clear eyes
first