Hello everyone and thank you for viewing my video. As you will observe in this video, I set my rear Koni shock absorbers to the hardest setting as this was for purely for experimental purposes on my car. For those who own a GTV V6, please be aware that the best setting the use is actually the softest setting for compliance and better road holding. The GTV is a very stiff car by nature, therefore, the best setting on the Koni Sport shock absorbers is actually the softest. A softer setting allows movement in your rear suspension for more compliance which translates to a better handling GTV. Setting your Koni’s to the hardest setting will severely restrict the movement of your rear suspension. I hope this helps. Rick
Hi Rick, thanks very much for the very clear detailed videos. They are helping a lot. The adjustment itself looks very simple so I wondered if you could actually do it in situ by removing the top bolt and slackening off the bottom bolt and swinging the shock outboard to make the adjustment? Might not be room to do that but just thought I would ask? Cheers. Gordon
Update to my question… I tried adjusting the shock by removing the top bolt and I had lots of room to swing the shock out and do the adjustment without doing anything to the bottom bolt so it saved a bit of time rather than taking them off each time I tried different settings.
My GTV V6 was the same set up as yours with yellow Konis. My car was undriveable on the hardest setting for normal road use for the rears. It would be ok for a smooth race track though. I think I had mine on the mid setting or 1 down from hard. For the fronts I had mine on half turn from hardest or so.
I have my rear shocks on full hard and the fronts 1 and 1/4 turn from the softest. The ride is noticeably firmer but the handling is so much better. I’m happy with it. Not ideal for a daily driver though I have to admit
@@_RicksGarage BTW my rear yellow konis started to develop a squeaking and rattling sound outside of the 1 year warranty. As they were outside warranty they were not replaceable. I confirmed they were rattling as my mechanic troubleshot it by replacing them with older shocks and the they were quiet. I was quiet disappointed as I did very low mileage on the car like less than 5,000 km a year and they started squeaking. Also the fronts started weeping oil at the top where the adjustment wheel goes. Overall I wasn’t really impressed with the konis. Constant fiddling around with adjustments and poor build quality shocks. I would not buy this product ever again. Compared to bilsteins I had on a 116 GTV which were just outstanding in comparison.
Hi Rick, first of all, thanks for sharing your videos and tutorials. I'm a proudly owner of a GTV V6, so I learn a lot from you! I'm going to exchange the old stock shocks for Koni sport and also the springs for Suplex one's. I would your advice in which parts to change besides the shocks, meaning drop links, bumper stop, etc. and where can I get them. I'm based in Lisbon, so have to order from abroad. Thanks in advance. Best, Nuno
Can ask where you managed to find the bolts for your suspension? In particular the rear dogleg. In the process of restoring my spider and struggling to find them. The rear suspension on yours is a thing of dreams
Hi Rick nice vid as usual got some kyb shocks on mine I find they give a good compliant ride but more to point I’m just whitewashing my garage and wondered what flooring you’ve got down ?! Got to keep our gtvs snug !
Hi Dean. I’ve had various flooring down over the years. I used to have black & white chequered vinyl/lino which looked great however quickly discovered that moisture sat on top of it during the winter so that came straight back up. Since then I’ve had carpet which works very well but obviously you’ve got to be careful welding on it etc haha. Right now I’m using industrial carpet tiles which are ok but ultimately im hoping to fit the heavy duty rubber or PVC garage floor tiles. They’re just a tad expensive
Rick you still haven't changed those Pirelli P6000 tyres for something better. They must be over 10 years old anyway. Get a good tyre goodyear asymmetric 5 so much better!
I hear you gents. Yes, I do fully intend to change the tyres but I am waiting until I have my wheels refurbed at the same time. More importantly I need to correct the rear camber first. For now the tyres currently fitted (although not the best compound) are perfectly fine and completely legal. Thanks for the tyre recommendations gents 👍🏼
@@_RicksGarage Rick on the rear camber make sure you go for the recommended rear toe which is between 2 and 2.5 negative in total (I've mentioned this before). These 916 models were designed for negative toe on the rear. Since you have lowered with Eibach's you already know about slotting the two holes which hold the ball joint on the upper wishbone. Go gently with the slotting as you don't need a great deal to get things back ok with even tyre wear on the rear. On the tyres when you do upgrade you will notice a BIG difference handling/noise/everything!
Hello everyone and thank you for viewing my video. As you will observe in this video, I set my rear Koni shock absorbers to the hardest setting as this was for purely for experimental purposes on my car. For those who own a GTV V6, please be aware that the best setting the use is actually the softest setting for compliance and better road holding. The GTV is a very stiff car by nature, therefore, the best setting on the Koni Sport shock absorbers is actually the softest. A softer setting allows movement in your rear suspension for more compliance which translates to a better handling GTV. Setting your Koni’s to the hardest setting will severely restrict the movement of your rear suspension.
I hope this helps.
Rick
That underbody is looking mint. Thanks for the video!
Thank you Rick, very simple and well explained.
Super simple. Thanks for the clear explanation.
Hi Rick, thanks very much for the very clear detailed videos. They are helping a lot.
The adjustment itself looks very simple so I wondered if you could actually do it in situ by removing the top bolt and slackening off the bottom bolt and swinging the shock outboard to make the adjustment? Might not be room to do that but just thought I would ask? Cheers. Gordon
Update to my question… I tried adjusting the shock by removing the top bolt and I had lots of room to swing the shock out and do the adjustment without doing anything to the bottom bolt so it saved a bit of time rather than taking them off each time I tried different settings.
My GTV V6 was the same set up as yours with yellow Konis. My car was undriveable on the hardest setting for normal road use for the rears. It would be ok for a smooth race track though. I think I had mine on the mid setting or 1 down from hard. For the fronts I had mine on half turn from hardest or so.
I have my rear shocks on full hard and the fronts 1 and 1/4 turn from the softest. The ride is noticeably firmer but the handling is so much better. I’m happy with it. Not ideal for a daily driver though I have to admit
@@_RicksGarage well I had mine in opposite to yours from front to rear hardness lol
Did you try the fronts on the harder settings? That helps to reduce under steer / torque steer considerably
@@_RicksGarage BTW my rear yellow konis started to develop a squeaking and rattling sound outside of the 1 year warranty. As they were outside warranty they were not replaceable. I confirmed they were rattling as my mechanic troubleshot it by replacing them with older shocks and the they were quiet. I was quiet disappointed as I did very low mileage on the car like less than 5,000 km a year and they started squeaking. Also the fronts started weeping oil at the top where the adjustment wheel goes. Overall I wasn’t really impressed with the konis. Constant fiddling around with adjustments and poor build quality shocks. I would not buy this product ever again. Compared to bilsteins I had on a 116 GTV which were just outstanding in comparison.
Id be setting to softest haha.
Im getting old lol.
Nice clear calm viewing.
Bellissima
Hi Rick, first of all, thanks for sharing your videos and tutorials. I'm a proudly owner of a GTV V6, so I learn a lot from you! I'm going to exchange the old stock shocks for Koni sport and also the springs for Suplex one's. I would your advice in which parts to change besides the shocks, meaning drop links, bumper stop, etc. and where can I get them. I'm based in Lisbon, so have to order from abroad. Thanks in advance. Best, Nuno
Can ask where you managed to find the bolts for your suspension? In particular the rear dogleg. In the process of restoring my spider and struggling to find them. The rear suspension on yours is a thing of dreams
Hi Rick nice vid as usual got some kyb shocks on mine I find they give a good compliant ride but more to point I’m just whitewashing my garage and wondered what flooring you’ve got down ?! Got to keep our gtvs snug !
Hi Dean. I’ve had various flooring down over the years. I used to have black & white chequered vinyl/lino which looked great however quickly discovered that moisture sat on top of it during the winter so that came straight back up. Since then I’ve had carpet which works very well but obviously you’ve got to be careful welding on it etc haha. Right now I’m using industrial carpet tiles which are ok but ultimately im hoping to fit the heavy duty rubber or PVC garage floor tiles. They’re just a tad expensive
Rick you still haven't changed those Pirelli P6000 tyres for something better. They must be over 10 years old anyway. Get a good tyre goodyear asymmetric 5 so much better!
Yeah pilot sport 4 or Eagle f1
Admiro tu trabajo
I hear you gents. Yes, I do fully intend to change the tyres but I am waiting until I have my wheels refurbed at the same time. More importantly I need to correct the rear camber first. For now the tyres currently fitted (although not the best compound) are perfectly fine and completely legal. Thanks for the tyre recommendations gents 👍🏼
@@_RicksGarage I am taking Potenza S001 - Bridgestone, and I am very happy, although in the front wje I do not do more than 10,000 kms
@@_RicksGarage Rick on the rear camber make sure you go for the recommended rear toe which is between 2 and 2.5 negative in total (I've mentioned this before). These 916 models were designed for negative toe on the rear. Since you have lowered with Eibach's you already know about slotting the two holes which hold the ball joint on the upper wishbone. Go gently with the slotting as you don't need a great deal to get things back ok with even tyre wear on the rear. On the tyres when you do upgrade you will notice a BIG difference handling/noise/everything!
Great job but you need more room brother you need a way bigger shop I’m too fat to fit in there lol