I know this is an older video but I have to say, I really appreciate someone that knows how to make a video without all of the stupid rambling and unorganized crap. This is a really informative and professionally done video that gets to the point and delivers information without boring you to tears. Thanks!
Thank GOD, someone who’s an organized thinker! We don’t have an RV but are researching Solar energy in general & your start was PERFECT! I just wasted an hour trying to find SOLAR 101 Basics, & got aggravated with videos that said NOTHING but a bunch of acronyms & personal experiences. THANKS AGAIN!
I don't get it... just about every solar DIY'er on youtube is mounting 100 watt panels on their RV roofs. And the cost for these range from $1.00 - 1.90 per watt generated! Why would you not use something like the Mission Solar 315 watt panels? They would take much less mounting area, and cost about $0.70 per watt ?
Glenn Beattie that’s incorrect with the appropriate charge controller you can have much higher voltage going in and the controller will charge the batteries appropriately.
I put one 400 watt panel on my van conversion roof and hooked it into my 2200 watt power station. I bought a like new used panel for $200. Beats 4 100 watt panels on my opinion
This is a GREAT Video... You know what you're talking about... I just wished I knew what you were talking about... LOL. This is total Greek to me... and I am a chemical engineer. I wished I was an electrical engineer right now... LOL Please NOTE for people like me. You KNOW what you're talking about... We don't (at least some of us). If you would SHOW us at the SAME time you're talking... We can SEE and Hear you at the same time... and that teaches us better. Thank you for sharing this video... I really need to learn this, because I am needing to do this on my Travel Trailer.
It amazes me that so many caravans in England and other European countries have lithium as the standard battery pack and solar three panel systems standard. I can't understand American manufacturers who continue to build junk. Except for a few such as Northwood all I see are ill constructed lite units that are rushed through build and are delivered to the customer broken. You are fortunate to understand the inner workings and can repair most problems and add to the electronics. I would love to buy a trailer to pull but I'm waiting until I can afford something like a North wood product.
Matthew B it’s a difference of approach. We can get lithium batteries in the US, but a 170 ah battery is currently about $1500 compared to a 200 ah AGM battery for $400. Yeah, the AGM weighs 130 lbs vs a 45 lb lithium but the trailers used in North America have a different weight distribution than is used in European caravans. We distribute weight between the tow vehicle and trailer, whereas the weight is over the a caravan’s axle and the tow vehicle is simply a tractor. The Europeans can tow with a lighter weight tow vehicle, but need to tow at a slower speed. When I was in Europe, I was surprised to see such small cars towing relatively large caravans. In North America, we distribute weight differently on our trailers and can tow faster, but we have a higher tongue weight on the tow vehicle so the rig is more stable at highway speeds than the European configuration. That requires a vehicle with the ability to hold a heavy tongue weight. See oppositelock.kinja.com/tow-me-down-1609112611 The point is, we can load the heavy batteries into our trailers. When we “boondock” in public lands (setup your camper for up to 14 days, but you have to bring your own power source, water, etc.) we need to maximize that battery bank capacity. Having a couple of decent AH rated 6V AGM batteries in series is pretty common in the US west.
Randallkoller - I really dislike the “greed and profits” argument. Its lazy, It’s like if I chip my tooth then it’s because of “greed and profits”. My coffee is too strong... “greed and profits”. My milk curdled in my Wheaties... “greed and profits”. Lead acid battery plates get recycled in the US and we actually have factories that manufacture them either here or in Mexico with lower cost land transportation for distribution. Lead plates recycle pretty easily... just melt them, skim off the crud from the top and cast new cells. That easy, available recycling holds down costs as does the lower cost of transport. I’m not aware of much recycling of lithium cells in the US, even so, we’d probably have to ship back to make new cells. Lead acid batteries have a century of developed infrastructure and distribution systems. Lithium is nearly new infrastructure and distribution systems that’s still being developed. I recently bought 4 LiFePo4 cells, BMS and new solar controller from China through eBay for about 3 times the cost of just buying a 90 lb golf cart battery from a local retailer. Another option was to use a BattleBorn battery which is assembled in the US, probably using newly manufactured foreign cells from new, not recycled materials. The BattleBorn is about 4-5 times the cost of the lead acid battery. Still, I wanted to reduce weight and hope to get a 5x life out of the LiFePo4 and so long as I get a longer life then the LiFePo4 might be somewhat less over the long haul. Still, a LiFePo4 is about 20-25% of the weight of lead acid. If I had a big honking motor home that didn’t mind the weight then I would have just loaded up with golf cart batteries, saved money and hassle. The stupid thing is, my lefty, environmentalist brother in law objects to my LiFePo4 setup, telling me to just buy cheap, heavy lead acid batteries at SamsClub instead. It’s like “save the planet” until it’s his responsibility to save the planet. The only greedy ones that I see in that cycle are consumers who only look at the purchase cost of the batteries. I’m still not convinced that I’ll get the life out of the LiFePo4 setup to have made it worthwhile. That’s a 10 year long experiment. Here’s to hoping.
North Americans want things cheap and cheap usually means cheap. Of you want a better built RV, Northwood like you said or Lance. The majority of us won't or can't afford to spend double or more for a better built rv especially if its something you use a few weekends in a year.
Well done ! .... I spent about a year studying up on solar. After a lot of overthinking, calculations & trying to decide how big to go; I jumped in with just a simple 100W glass panel & PWM. The goal was to charge two 6v golf cart batteries at this point. I'm really glad I did as I found unless you are in direct sun you get very little amps. We camp predominately in shade or treed areas, I was doing a lot of chasing the sun with the panel. Against my original objectives I did buy a small inverter generator for the days that solar isn't going to work or I'm not "chasing". Surprisingly in the last 6 months I've only used ~3 gal of gas. I'm about $750 total all in. It's all working great for our needs. You hit the nail on the head; start small with the basics to add on later, you don't need to start out with a $5k-$12k system. I am not a full timer so my needs are simple.
@@carriesings4life No, we are not full timers. We go out about 1x a month for 4-5 days, a couple of 10-15 day trips in the Summer. The past couple of years we've taken a 6-8 week trip to the S.W. during the Winter. We prefer to boondock but when it's snowing or really cold we will get hookups. I have aded a 2nd 100 watt panel (still not attached)and a small 600 watt converter to charge laptops and ipads. In the Winter down in AZ desert the two 100watt panels are perfect for us. place them in the sun early morning and by 12 or 2:00 we're all charged up 100%. We don't use a lot of power but we don't watch it closely with our lights at night I don't like sitting in the dark. For us its crazy to spend $10 - $15k for a full system like some of our friends have done. But we do not work from the road either or watch any TV. Once in a while we fire up our small Generator for the microwave or hairdryer or watch a movie. On a rare occasion charge the batteries. hope that helps
That was the most helpful solar on your rv video I have ever seen and I've seen a few. It's for people like me who are just starting out. I appreciate your service to the RV community. Safe travels.
Thanks for the good information. Could you please talk about charging your batteries from your tow vehicle while traveling. Any mods need to be done to the factory set-up for charging Lithium batteries?
Here's a few things to help others, new dual function type solar panels, heat water at same time, keeps panels cooler, last longer, hot water can be used for domestic to either pre-heat or keep water hot in tank if not using a tankless system, in some cases it could be used for interior heating as well. A guy in NJ has them on his house, get over 100 fahr. in winter. Small quick attach, pole mounted sail boat wind generators for the days with no sun, night etc.. Use all 3 type of passive energy. Yinlang lto lithium cells.... new tech, last you a life time, light weight, huge temperature operating range -40c to 65-c and if not clearly stated before, HUGE cycle rate, over 50,000 if I remember correctly, easily bolt together, no special tools, no special training, no topping up water... build any voltage pack you want, any capacity, any SHAPE to fit your needs rather than a square factory built unit... I think the 40 amp hour cell can do 400 amps discharge.... dont quote me but I know it's higher than most, way higher. Using a charge controller for each panel rather than one large one, makes the system more efficient as it allows for the differences between panels and can make the most of the panel. Luna cycles has some really nice heavy gauge wire, good flexibility, 8g,6g, nice 200 amp bullet connectors too, although personally I use the ones from castle, 6.5mm bullet connector with 200 amp limit, polarized plugs, cannot be plugged in the wrong way. Silicone wire, has much better flex, current rate, lower resistance and higher temp resistance than most common wire, Deans wire but they dont do heavy gauge, Amazon, Ali Express, easy enough to order silicone wire. Ripping 50 to 100 amps dc for RC motors is very common, so they have some very nice DC wire and connectors. I build ebikes, off road, 2 wheel drive, trailer with motors, batteries in trailers and solar panels to recharge them, so I have a bit of an idea... every stove and dryer I see, I rip the power cords off for the 8g wire in them :) Hopes this helps some people. Oh between the bike and the trailer, I have 7 battery pack, 100 amp hours @ 36 volt with over 140 amps discharge constant, 200 amp burst, I can run the 2 motors on my bike as high as 5,000 watts each, trailer motors for about 3,000 each if needed, 4 motors, 4 controllers, brake lights, turn signals, alarms, yes plural alarms, bike and trailer + each controller, LED motorcycle head lights, all custom wired. Just so you understand, I actually work with this stuff too. And please dont forget, dielectric grease for plug connections exposed to the elements.
WAY too much you and not enough demonstration. You had three introductions, then we had to look at you again until a quick graphic comes up. Then... back to you.. I wanted to see more detail in the installation and not so much you on camera. You also ramble too much.. this video could have been perhaps 5 minutes instead of more than nine. The info (when you got to it) was good, but I had to continue skipping your head shots to get to the actual install.
SOOOOO.....our house just went on the market, so we will hopefully be in the RV full-time soon! I have no idea how to do the solar and cannot seem to find a video for what we have. If anyone can help explain or have resources for what we have would be great. So we bought a used, 2008, class C coachmen. We wanted to do portable solar so we could move it around. We bought a 200 watt renogy portable kit, a 2200watt pure sine inverter, and will be getting 2 deep cycle 6 volt batteries. Now what the hell do I do with this stuff haha?? Neither me nor my husband are mechanically inclined. I would like to hook it up so that all the plugs are "hot", but am not sure we can do that correctly and just do not have the money to pay someone. If we cannot hook it up to the "whole" RV, I would like to put the inverter somewhere permanent with an outlet strip plugged into as a second best option. Does anyone have any advise or good step by step resources that we could use to do something ourselves?? Thanks for any help!
With a limited budget I guess you will have to read, research and do the old trial and error method. And watch MULTIPLE UA-cam vids, so all the terms are second hand to you both! And your wiring setup is a glory to behold--- NOT a total mess of wires, of unlabeled, mixed colors and of questionable gauge! And once you are done pay to have it THOROUGHLY checked by a LICENSED technician! Think of that cost as insurance! So you don't loose EVERYTHING!!!!!
Thanks for the video. There are a lot of videos on this topic but many of the presenters are too hard to watch. This is a nice straight-forward walk through. Thanks.
That help a bit more from your last hooking up solar. How do I figure how and where to run the wires? How does the solar panels hook to the batteries if there aren't mounted?
Great video! I also chose Renogy after much research. My system is super small, but love it. I did decide on the MPPT charge controller. Great tip about the inline breaker. Wish I had known and had them install that! Thanks for the awesome informational videos!!!
Super content and advice. Maybe a topic for a future video would be for those of us with the famous "Solar Ready Z-AMP" connectors and how they might integrate into a growing solar system. Thanks!
Jared, great video as always! I'm in the process of installing solar on our RV roof and also have a 100W portable suite case. Did you wire the portable panels into your MPPT charge controller or do you hook them up to the batteries with a separate MPPT charge controller?
@@AllAboutRVs Thanks for getting back to me on this. Thats good to know. I also heared you could also operate with teo charge controllers. But would much rather do it with just the one as your doing. Thanks again.
@@AllAboutRVs Thank you for responding to Jim B. Now that I looked more carefully, I can see the wiring going into your compartment. Looking forward to watching your upcoming videos. I've gotten a lot out of the solar videos you have done in the past. Thank you!
i’m thinking while my RV which is park next to my house that I might want to cover the solar panels from time to time. Does anyone ever cover their solar panels and if so what are good reasons to cover them? What are you using to cover them obviously it Hass to be somewhat waterproof.
How’s those screws to the roof holding up? They look more like a sheet metal screw. My uninstalled kit has them as well and was wondering if I should use something else. Roof is 7/16” OSB.
Just over a year in and they have been very solid. Just inspected the he roof not long ago and no problems. These are similar to the screws we used on the last RV for years with no problems
thank you for this video. this was my first video as my husband just passed the other day and I'm trying to pick up where he left off. He tried to finish the rv before he passed so I would always be able to have a place to live off-grid.
Thank you. Some great and simplistic information ......truly appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Like James a couple comments earlier I would like to have more information on charging your batteries from your tow vehicle especially if you have lithium. Keep up the good work and thanks again.
I’m considering putting a fan on the roof of my work truck to see how much power I can generate as I drive it’s the same concept that is used for passenger airplanes and some cargo planes to
I bought a used RV with just one house battery…a Winnie Drop 170s. Part of the used deal came with a 100 watt panel, charge controller and a bunch of wires in a bag. How/where do I connect this panel to the house battery? I do understand the basic setup of a charger controller. But what is the load? Or do I just need to charge the battery and nothing goes on the load? I can’t really tell where the previous owner connected to the battery. There is an after market terminal block in the bathroom area that goes out to a storage compartment. But I a am not sure where the other end of the terminal block goes. Any ideas? Thanks!
My biggest question is how do I determine exactly where I can mount the panels on the roof? I have a 2019 Keystone Hideout 177LHS, plenty of room for 4 panels but I only have 1 on hand right now. Any ideas or resources would be appreciated. Great video, thanks!
We have a 30 amp breaker between the charge controller and battery and the shunt we use is for the whole system which is a 500 amp shunt that came with our BMV-712 Victron monitor. Most the components we’ve used should be in the solar tab in our Amazon links. www.amazon.com/shop/jaredgillis
This is a great video, but can you please stop endorsing Renogy. I bought these on your recommendation and they are the absolute worst company I have ever dealt with. I’m not the only one, their customer service is horrid, good luck to all your viewers if anything goes wrong or breaks.
I hope that you had better luck with that Renogy charge controller then I did I had A Renogy Rover 40 amp charge controller but that silly thing only lasted a little bit over a year and quit working so I changed over to BougeRV
I see all you guys give the proper way to organize the battery bank but the truth is you guys need to put solar panel diodes or battery isolators between each battery because even 1 weak cell and the balance of the system gets thrown off,,,Its expensive but the only way to properly recharge and not overcook r/v batteries or inverters as when you turn an inverter off its supposed to stop reverse voltage flow but after the vehicle is jumpstarted wrong the diode fails and should be used as a redundancy not a defense......... You must totally protect the whole RV from Flyback...Look it up.. You heard it first from The Godfather to Understanding Flyback & The Way It Afflicts Vehicles..Take care
Did you connect to your existing RV batteries? If so, and I want to upgrade to lithium, will the original charger on the RV still work with the new lithium batteries? Will anything conflict with my RV charger? I'm confused about this.
Why do all these RV How tos have so much time on the narrator? Tired of just looking at them and not the subject. Dude, I don't care what you look like. Don't think Hollywood is scanning youtube for future stars. If you are truly trying to help others then show the topic materials. I don't even watch these anymore. As soon as I see it's going to be another Vogue session I go on to another video.
I've been trying to find a video with an RV that is already 'Solar Prep' like mine..In one of the storage bins there is a Box marked 'Solar Ready' ( i Haven't checked what's inside of that box yet) and on top i have the already wired with a coupler on the roof to connect the solar panels...so basically once I know I want to connect the panels in parallel then to the coupler on top of the roof , then what would be next ? I know you need a controller, then wire (what size ?) to connect to the battery....This is where I'm stuck at..any suggestions ??
What I have found useless about all rv solar installs videos (not this one so much) is when you go much higher in wattage, like long runs for 12v 600watts plus. When you need 4 or 6 gauge wire but you can't find MC4 connectors that you can put on a 6AWG wire to plug into your panels. You almost have to go to a 48v panel because the current gets so high in a parallel setup.
So Jared, I get all that and thanks for the simple yet candid explanation .... The part that i don't get is how and where the solr system / controller plug into my"existing" power system? Can you let me know if you have a video explaining that part? Thank you, Geo
What length of screw is strong enough to hold heavy panels a typical Class C roof (e.g. from Thor) without punching through to the interior side of the ceiling? I thought most roofs are a TPO thin membrane over 1" plywood sheet?
You talk fast enough to be a used car salesman. If I were serious about setting up a system, I'd have to watch this several times just to make sure I heard what you said. BTW, were you/are you a used car salesman? Just kidding...
Which Dicor product did you use? Can you send a link? Also with the Rover charge controller. Is that located in a cabinet in your RV? Do you have enough ventilation?
Hi all about RVs I’m installing a system this year are you satisfied to have you with your system solar energy. Would you recommend that company? thank you
Hello great video.. I am Installing a new roof on my 5th wheel. Thought I’d pre-wire for solar while I have it tore apart. Went searching UA-cam. Behold I found your video right away. 1st time watching, it went way over my head. I’m back for a second viewing and making a lot more sense after educating myself a little about solar and terms. The problem is I am now more confused than before
Second part of my post. I’m looking to install the same system you have. 4 panels , 30 amps. What size wire do you run from the panels to the Rover? What design lay out did you decide? 2p2s or something different? Greatly appreciate your input into my install?
Does anyone know if this is enough power to run the RVs ac unit? We’re thinking about putting our 37 ft camper somewhere without power and it’s important that we’re able to run the air conditioner and lights. TVs are not priority.
Thanks. Is it possible to make a smaller solar set up to cover most of the needs, but still use grid power if the solar battery is low? Or is that not possible? (I know very little about solar).
How many solar panels will need to run a refrigerator , TV , 3 cameras, AC, and alot of lights and I have a mobile barber in a 26ft trailer and all my clippers rechargeable
I have a Winnebago Micro Minnie and want to change over to lithium batteries. The easiest place for me to put the batteries is the storage under my queen bed. Should I be concerned about sleeping above the lithium batteries safety wise? Thanks in advance!
Question; I have a camper with shore power or power via my truck alternator, charging the batteries now, Therefore do I have to shut off the solar power when connected to shore power as there would be 2 different power sources charging the batteries at the same time?
I've watched a lot of these videos... Where do I plug in my shore power converter charger for when solar isn't enough, or do I just need a transfer switch?
We are in the middle of a van conversion and are concerned about our auto insurance. I am pretty sure our insurance company won'tb accept the modifications we have made. We have done nothing out of the ordinary. The most ambitious things are a new seat in back of van and solar on the roof. What auto insurance so you use for your converted van?
Jared, as usual another great video! But I have to ask, was your rig brand new or did you just redo your roof? That is the cleanest, whitest roof I have ever seen! Lol
I am planning on a solar system but do not need AC so not going to use an inverter. Solar will go to controller, controller to batteries but how do I connect the DC system from my camper into the batteries. Right now it ties in with two wires at the tongue of the trailer and those two wires can also charge the batteries from the truck vis the 7 pin connector. My new batteries will be inside and next to the charge controller and then I need to connect it to the camper DC. Please let me know ideas on the best way to do this.
That's good to know all I have on my 85 fifth wheel is a 50 watt solorpanel and a lead acid battery and a small inverter to get me by for now any tip would help thabks
Ok, how about integrating a inverter with your converter that comes with your trailer, which in turn drives everything, or do you have a answer for that.😊
It shows you enjoy doing this kind of stuff. I hope that some of the suppliers see your video and send you stuff. Personally, I would like to see a demonstration done with Volta systems. I hear these are on the high end but compared to what? Thanks for what you do Jared
Wonder if anyone can advise me, I am putting flexible panels on my rv, because I’m having them posted to where I am in Ukraine, the regular ones would be too heavy.. can anybody suggest a way to fix flex panels to the roof without putting holes in the roof? some sort of Velcro , or double sided tape? Thanks in advance
What can be powered by the solar setup you described? What type of solar system would be needed to power your camper as if it was plugged in at a full hookup rv camp site?
@Bruce Heckler - The other question you should also be asking is for how long do you want to power your rig as if it were plugged into shore power. Before you can even attempt to answer this you need to know how much power you are using during the day. A shunt based battery monitor like the Victron BMV-712 is a great way to find this out and that is why most people (including Jared) recommend that you install one of those first. Having said that here is where I would start as a sizing guide: I would suggest a 2000-3000 watt inverter to be able to run loads as if you were plugged into shore power. The recommendation is to have at least one 100 amp hour (1200ish watt hour) Lithium battery for every 1000 wats of inverter. I would suggest no fewer than three batteries (in a 12v system) As far as panels go, you should plan on having around 5 hours of “Solar generating time” per day (depending on latitude and time of year). If you are mounting your panels to the roof they probably won’t be generating at their maximum unless the sun is directory overhead so I would plan on them generating somewhere between 50-70% of their rating. That means that a panel rated at 100 watts will generate somewhere between 250-350 watt hours per day (50-70 watts X 5 hours) You also need to make sure the solar charge controller you buy can handle the number of watts you want to add in panels. For example the 40 watt Renogy controller Jared has can handle a little over 500 watts for a 12v system and the 50 watt Victron (which was also shown in this video) can handle 700 watts. (These number double of you have a 24v setup, but I won’t go into that here). So to do the math: 3 batteries (1200 watt hour X 3) = 3600 watt hours 3600 watt hours / 350 watt hours (best case solar generation) = ~10.3 panels required to charge empty batteries from full to empty during solar generating hours For my personal setup I have 8x100 watt panels and 3x100 amp hour lithium batteries (in a 12v setup). I can run the all of the regular DC loads in addition to the dual fuel fridge on AC power and an AC powered mini drink fridge during “solar generating hours” and still have power for occasional use of other AC powered devices without having to touch the batteries (and actually charge them a bit). However as soon as the solar power generation drops off the batteries have to carry the loads. With just the base DC loads and the dual fuel fridge on AC and the AC mini fridge (no other AC or DC loads) my batteries are down to 50% by midnight. I hope this (long) comment helped answer your question.
As always awesome information my wife and I are picking up our newest 5th wheel toy hauler in a couple weeks and Solar is one of the first upgrades we want to do. I have watched several of your videos regarding solar and I appreciate your information.
Love the videos. Thanks for info. I have 200w portable suitcase mppt20a 700w inverter 12v 100ah lithium battery, but unsure best way to connect to travel trailer fuse box, converter Any help /recommended reading would be appreciated. Thanks
Hey...thanks for your videos. So...I am planning an install of two 200W panels on the roof of my new 6x10 trailer conversion. I also have a portable set of panels I normally have used to charge my portable Jackery. I will be joining the two sets of wires from the panels into one set using a y-connector. I would like to install another Y-connector later in that short cable run to my Renogy controller. That would allow me to, on occasion, plug-in my portable panels if I wanted to gain a little more input. Sound like a workable plan? Thanks.
It seems always when I am searching youtube for my RV renovation questions, I always come back to YOUR channel, Thanks for your GHrrrteat explanations!. Question, I am in the process of replacing the entire roof on my 5th wheel. I intend to install solar next year (when I can afford it, lol!) but while I am ripping off and replacing the roof, is there anything you suggest I do in THIS project to install brackets or whatever to allow me to more easily install a solar system next year when I can get to that project? Thanks!!!
Nice informative vidéo. I'm starting in solar and have a 50 amp FW. I want to start with 400w. Now is it better 4x100w or 2x200w ? My understanding is to Install at least 2 in series so the voltage will be around 40v. I see a lot of 4x100w so is there a particular raison ? Tks
Great video I’m pretty handy on everything I do but when it comes to Solar, I don’t know nothing. Your video clarified that it’s not as hard as it looks. So I subscribe to your channel to walk me through the whole procedure I purchased a 2020 holiday rambler vacationer 35p it already has one solar panel on the roof. My question is if I buy the kit you have listed 400 W can I connect those panels to the existing panel that’s already on the roof Would love to hear your input and two cents on this installation that I will be starting in the next month. Thank you once again.
Solar power is great when there is a need. Charging batteries, off the grid in the RV, and saving on residential power Bill's. We dont need it but if we did I would recommend this channel for how to advise
You mentioned that you don't tilt your panels. Is that due to the mounting hardware? It's limited in that way? Are there hardware kits that give you that ability, but also can be mounted to the roof? Are those panels safe to drive down the road with simply screwing them into the roof? Do you have to look for supports in the roof to drill into or can you simply pick any spot? What's your current setup look like now compared to when this was posted?
Question from someone who knows nothing. We have a 50 amp fifth wheel. Wouldn’t we need a 50 amp or greater system? Your setup was 40 amp, is your trailer 30 amp hookup then?
I’d really like to see you draw a diagram of a basic solar system using lithium batteries. You say it’s simple, but I don’t think it is. Show all pats, controllers, switches, all in diagram. That would help me. Thanks!
Is lithium battery storage the only limiting factor for boondocking? When we get there in about 4-6 years, we would like to boondock about a week at a time. Going to a park once a week to take care of tanks etc. After retirement hopefully being out for 4-5 weeks at a time
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I know this is an older video but I have to say, I really appreciate someone that knows how to make a video without all of the stupid rambling and unorganized crap. This is a really informative and professionally done video that gets to the point and delivers information without boring you to tears. Thanks!
AMEN TO THAT! All that rambling on is unprofessional and makes one want to click delete...
Thank GOD, someone who’s an organized thinker! We don’t have an RV but are researching Solar energy in general & your start was PERFECT! I just wasted an hour trying to find SOLAR 101 Basics, & got aggravated with videos that said NOTHING but a bunch of acronyms & personal experiences. THANKS AGAIN!
I don't get it... just about every solar DIY'er on youtube is mounting 100 watt panels on their RV roofs. And the cost for these range from $1.00 - 1.90 per watt generated! Why would you not use something like the Mission Solar 315 watt panels? They would take much less mounting area, and cost about $0.70 per watt ?
I have been wondering this myself
Those panels are not 12 volt. Most people believe (incorrectly) you can only use 12 volt panels on a 12 volt system.
Glenn Beattie that’s incorrect with the appropriate charge controller you can have much higher voltage going in and the controller will charge the batteries appropriately.
I put one 400 watt panel on my van conversion roof and hooked it into my 2200 watt power station. I bought a like new used panel for $200. Beats 4 100 watt panels on my opinion
You can't get that panel any more. I checked with the manufacturer.
This is a GREAT Video... You know what you're talking about...
I just wished I knew what you were talking about... LOL.
This is total Greek to me... and I am a chemical engineer. I wished
I was an electrical engineer right now... LOL
Please NOTE for people like me.
You KNOW what you're talking about... We don't (at least some of us).
If you would SHOW us at the SAME time you're talking... We can SEE and Hear you
at the same time... and that teaches us better.
Thank you for sharing this video...
I really need to learn this, because I am needing to do this on my Travel Trailer.
It amazes me that so many caravans in England and other European countries have lithium as the standard battery pack and solar three panel systems standard. I can't understand American manufacturers who continue to build junk. Except for a few such as Northwood all I see are ill constructed lite units that are rushed through build and are delivered to the customer broken. You are fortunate to understand the inner workings and can repair most problems and add to the electronics. I would love to buy a trailer to pull but I'm waiting until I can afford something like a North wood product.
Matthew B it’s a difference of approach. We can get lithium batteries in the US, but a 170 ah battery is currently about $1500 compared to a 200 ah AGM battery for $400.
Yeah, the AGM weighs 130 lbs vs a 45 lb lithium but the trailers used in North America have a different weight distribution than is used in European caravans. We distribute weight between the tow vehicle and trailer, whereas the weight is over the a caravan’s axle and the tow vehicle is simply a tractor. The Europeans can tow with a lighter weight tow vehicle, but need to tow at a slower speed. When I was in Europe, I was surprised to see such small cars towing relatively large caravans. In North America, we distribute weight differently on our trailers and can tow faster, but we have a higher tongue weight on the tow vehicle so the rig is more stable at highway speeds than the European configuration. That requires a vehicle with the ability to hold a heavy tongue weight. See oppositelock.kinja.com/tow-me-down-1609112611
The point is, we can load the heavy batteries into our trailers. When we “boondock” in public lands (setup your camper for up to 14 days, but you have to bring your own power source, water, etc.) we need to maximize that battery bank capacity. Having a couple of decent AH rated 6V AGM batteries in series is pretty common in the US west.
@@ppainterco bottom line is greed and profits
Randallkoller - I really dislike the “greed and profits” argument. Its lazy, It’s like if I chip my tooth then it’s because of “greed and profits”. My coffee is too strong... “greed and profits”. My milk curdled in my Wheaties... “greed and profits”.
Lead acid battery plates get recycled in the US and we actually have factories that manufacture them either here or in Mexico with lower cost land transportation for distribution. Lead plates recycle pretty easily... just melt them, skim off the crud from the top and cast new cells. That easy, available recycling holds down costs as does the lower cost of transport. I’m not aware of much recycling of lithium cells in the US, even so, we’d probably have to ship back to make new cells. Lead acid batteries have a century of developed infrastructure and distribution systems. Lithium is nearly new infrastructure and distribution systems that’s still being developed.
I recently bought 4 LiFePo4 cells, BMS and new solar controller from China through eBay for about 3 times the cost of just buying a 90 lb golf cart battery from a local retailer. Another option was to use a BattleBorn battery which is assembled in the US, probably using newly manufactured foreign cells from new, not recycled materials. The BattleBorn is about 4-5 times the cost of the lead acid battery. Still, I wanted to reduce weight and hope to get a 5x life out of the LiFePo4 and so long as I get a longer life then the LiFePo4 might be somewhat less over the long haul. Still, a LiFePo4 is about 20-25% of the weight of lead acid. If I had a big honking motor home that didn’t mind the weight then I would have just loaded up with golf cart batteries, saved money and hassle.
The stupid thing is, my lefty, environmentalist brother in law objects to my LiFePo4 setup, telling me to just buy cheap, heavy lead acid batteries at SamsClub instead. It’s like “save the planet” until it’s his responsibility to save the planet. The only greedy ones that I see in that cycle are consumers who only look at the purchase cost of the batteries. I’m still not convinced that I’ll get the life out of the LiFePo4 setup to have made it worthwhile. That’s a 10 year long experiment. Here’s to hoping.
Lithium mines are killing alot of land and human health. Im happy to use lead acid or carbon batteries fr this reason.
North Americans want things cheap and cheap usually means cheap. Of you want a better built RV, Northwood like you said or Lance. The majority of us won't or can't afford to spend double or more for a better built rv especially if its something you use a few weekends in a year.
Well done ! .... I spent about a year studying up on solar. After a lot of overthinking, calculations & trying to decide how big to go; I jumped in with just a simple 100W glass panel & PWM. The goal was to charge two 6v golf cart batteries at this point. I'm really glad I did as I found unless you are in direct sun you get very little amps. We camp predominately in shade or treed areas, I was doing a lot of chasing the sun with the panel. Against my original objectives I did buy a small inverter generator for the days that solar isn't going to work or I'm not "chasing". Surprisingly in the last 6 months I've only used ~3 gal of gas. I'm about $750 total all in. It's all working great for our needs. You hit the nail on the head; start small with the basics to add on later, you don't need to start out with a $5k-$12k system. I am not a full timer so my needs are simple.
Do you live in an RV? my bf and I are looking to live full time in an RV and travel the U.S. but don't want the solar panel system to break the bank!
@@carriesings4life No, we are not full timers. We go out about 1x a month for 4-5 days, a couple of 10-15 day trips in the Summer. The past couple of years we've taken a 6-8 week trip to the S.W. during the Winter. We prefer to boondock but when it's snowing or really cold we will get hookups. I have aded a 2nd 100 watt panel (still not attached)and a small 600 watt converter to charge laptops and ipads. In the Winter down in AZ desert the two 100watt panels are perfect for us. place them in the sun early morning and by 12 or 2:00 we're all charged up 100%. We don't use a lot of power but we don't watch it closely with our lights at night I don't like sitting in the dark. For us its crazy to spend $10 - $15k for a full system like some of our friends have done. But we do not work from the road either or watch any TV. Once in a while we fire up our small Generator for the microwave or hairdryer or watch a movie. On a rare occasion charge the batteries. hope that helps
Hi, Jared, this is incredibly helpful! Thank you! One question: what size fuse do you use between the batteries and the charge controller?
That was the most helpful solar on your rv video I have ever seen and I've seen a few. It's for people like me who are just starting out. I appreciate your service to the RV community. Safe travels.
Thanks for the good information. Could you please talk about charging your batteries from your tow vehicle while traveling. Any mods need to be done to the factory set-up for charging Lithium batteries?
Hello where can I purchase your solar kit
None...they charge thru the 7pin
I purchased this kit. How does the system work with the converter/charger in my rig? I can’t find any information on this
Here's a few things to help others, new dual function type solar panels, heat water at same time, keeps panels cooler, last longer, hot water can be used for domestic to either pre-heat or keep water hot in tank if not using a tankless system, in some cases it could be used for interior heating as well. A guy in NJ has them on his house, get over 100 fahr. in winter.
Small quick attach, pole mounted sail boat wind generators for the days with no sun, night etc..
Use all 3 type of passive energy.
Yinlang lto lithium cells.... new tech, last you a life time, light weight, huge temperature operating range -40c to 65-c and if not clearly stated before, HUGE cycle rate, over 50,000 if I remember correctly, easily bolt together, no special tools, no special training, no topping up water... build any voltage pack you want, any capacity, any SHAPE to fit your needs rather than a square factory built unit... I think the 40 amp hour cell can do 400 amps discharge.... dont quote me but I know it's higher than most, way higher.
Using a charge controller for each panel rather than one large one, makes the system more efficient as it allows for the differences between panels and can make the most of the panel.
Luna cycles has some really nice heavy gauge wire, good flexibility, 8g,6g, nice 200 amp bullet connectors too, although personally I use the ones from castle, 6.5mm bullet connector with 200 amp limit, polarized plugs, cannot be plugged in the wrong way.
Silicone wire, has much better flex, current rate, lower resistance and higher temp resistance than most common wire, Deans wire but they dont do heavy gauge, Amazon, Ali Express, easy enough to order silicone wire. Ripping 50 to 100 amps dc for RC motors is very common, so they have some very nice DC wire and connectors.
I build ebikes, off road, 2 wheel drive, trailer with motors, batteries in trailers and solar panels to recharge them, so I have a bit of an idea... every stove and dryer I see, I rip the power cords off for the 8g wire in them :) Hopes this helps some people. Oh between the bike and the trailer, I have 7 battery pack, 100 amp hours @ 36 volt with over 140 amps discharge constant, 200 amp burst, I can run the 2 motors on my bike as high as 5,000 watts each, trailer motors for about 3,000 each if needed, 4 motors, 4 controllers, brake lights, turn signals, alarms, yes plural alarms, bike and trailer + each controller, LED motorcycle head lights, all custom wired. Just so you understand, I actually work with this stuff too. And please dont forget, dielectric grease for plug connections exposed to the elements.
Pretty good. But you could have flashed how you had the 2 100 panels fed in.
WAY too much you and not enough demonstration. You had three introductions, then we had to look at you again until a quick graphic comes up. Then... back to you.. I wanted to see more detail in the installation and not so much you on camera. You also ramble too much.. this video could have been perhaps 5 minutes instead of more than nine. The info (when you got to it) was good, but I had to continue skipping your head shots to get to the actual install.
Less "face time." More showing equipment, wires, batteries etc.
Be careful with those Chinese brakers i had one on my system and it burnt out i dont think they are the amps that are stated on the braker
SOOOOO.....our house just went on the market, so we will hopefully be in the RV full-time soon! I have no idea how to do the solar and cannot seem to find a video for what we have. If anyone can help explain or have resources for what we have would be great.
So we bought a used, 2008, class C coachmen. We wanted to do portable solar so we could move it around. We bought a 200 watt renogy portable kit, a 2200watt pure sine inverter, and will be getting 2 deep cycle 6 volt batteries. Now what the hell do I do with this stuff haha??
Neither me nor my husband are mechanically inclined. I would like to hook it up so that all the plugs are "hot", but am not sure we can do that correctly and just do not have the money to pay someone. If we cannot hook it up to the "whole" RV, I would like to put the inverter somewhere permanent with an outlet strip plugged into as a second best option. Does anyone have any advise or good step by step resources that we could use to do something ourselves?? Thanks for any help!
With a limited budget I guess you will have to read, research and do the old trial and error method. And watch MULTIPLE UA-cam vids, so all the terms are second hand to you both! And your wiring setup is a glory to behold--- NOT a total mess of wires, of unlabeled, mixed colors and of questionable gauge!
And once you are done pay to have it THOROUGHLY checked by a LICENSED technician! Think of that cost as insurance!
So you don't loose
EVERYTHING!!!!!
Thanks for the video. There are a lot of videos on this topic but many of the presenters are too hard to watch. This is a nice straight-forward walk through. Thanks.
That help a bit more from your last hooking up solar. How do I figure how and where to run the wires? How does the solar panels hook to the batteries if there aren't mounted?
After reading these comments and questions on this video. You might want to encourage these people to seek help from a professional!
Great video! I also chose Renogy after much research. My system is super small, but love it. I did decide on the MPPT charge controller. Great tip about the inline breaker. Wish I had known and had them install that!
Thanks for the awesome informational videos!!!
Did I miss something? What about the inverter?
Super content and advice.
Maybe a topic for a future video would be for those of us with the famous "Solar Ready Z-AMP" connectors and how they might integrate into a growing solar system.
Thanks!
Yes this.
Jared, great video as always! I'm in the process of installing solar on our RV roof and also have a 100W portable suite case. Did you wire the portable panels into your MPPT charge controller or do you hook them up to the batteries with a separate MPPT charge controller?
I connect it to the same charge controller, that’s why I have the whole system in parallel so it easy to add it in.
@@AllAboutRVs Thanks for getting back to me on this. Thats good to know. I also heared you could also operate with teo charge controllers. But would much rather do it with just the one as your doing. Thanks again.
@@AllAboutRVs Thank you for responding to Jim B. Now that I looked more carefully, I can see the wiring going into your compartment. Looking forward to watching your upcoming videos. I've gotten a lot out of the solar videos you have done in the past. Thank you!
i’m thinking while my RV which is park next to my house that I might want to cover the solar panels from time to time. Does anyone ever cover their solar panels and if so what are good reasons to cover them? What are you using to cover them obviously it Hass to be somewhat waterproof.
Video om how you hook up the portable system too would be nice. do you also charge via the vehicle charging system? Thx
How’s those screws to the roof holding up? They look more like a sheet metal screw. My uninstalled kit has them as well and was wondering if I should use something else. Roof is 7/16” OSB.
Just over a year in and they have been very solid. Just inspected the he roof not long ago and no problems. These are similar to the screws we used on the last RV for years with no problems
What is best way to take wires from panels into the RV?
thank you for this video. this was my first video as my husband just passed the other day and I'm trying to pick up where he left off. He tried to finish the rv before he passed so I would always be able to have a place to live off-grid.
Pm me If you still haven’t got it figured out
One day I understand solar energy. Next day I don't . Good information..
Good video, simplified. It would be nice ot have a simple wiring diagram as well. Thanks.
Thank you. Some great and simplistic information ......truly appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Like James a couple comments earlier I would like to have more information on charging your batteries from your tow vehicle especially if you have lithium. Keep up the good work and thanks again.
I’m considering putting a fan on the roof of my work truck to see how much power I can generate as I drive it’s the same concept that is used for passenger airplanes and some cargo planes to
I bought a used RV with just one house battery…a Winnie Drop 170s. Part of the used deal came with a 100 watt panel, charge controller and a bunch of wires in a bag. How/where do I connect this panel to the house battery? I do understand the basic setup of a charger controller. But what is the load? Or do I just need to charge the battery and nothing goes on the load? I can’t really tell where the previous owner connected to the battery. There is an after market terminal block in the bathroom area that goes out to a storage compartment. But I a am not sure where the other end of the terminal block goes. Any ideas? Thanks!
My biggest question is how do I determine exactly where I can mount the panels on the roof? I have a 2019 Keystone Hideout 177LHS, plenty of room for 4 panels but I only have 1 on hand right now. Any ideas or resources would be appreciated. Great video, thanks!
Thomas half of them doesn't pay for the equipments. they provide videos of the gear provide by differences companies.
how is it wired to the outlets tho
????? I did not understand anything after he took the panels to the roof !!!
what size fuse and shunt do you have from charge controller to battery?
We have a 30 amp breaker between the charge controller and battery and the shunt we use is for the whole system which is a 500 amp shunt that came with our BMV-712 Victron monitor. Most the components we’ve used should be in the solar tab in our Amazon links. www.amazon.com/shop/jaredgillis
This is a great video, but can you please stop endorsing Renogy. I bought these on your recommendation and they are the absolute worst company I have ever dealt with. I’m not the only one, their customer service is horrid, good luck to all your viewers if anything goes wrong or breaks.
I hope that you had better luck with that Renogy charge controller then I did I had A Renogy Rover 40 amp charge controller but that silly thing only lasted a little bit over a year and quit working so I changed over to BougeRV
I see all you guys give the proper way to organize the battery bank but the truth is you guys need to put solar panel diodes or battery isolators between each battery because even 1 weak cell and the balance of the system gets thrown off,,,Its expensive but the only way to properly recharge and not overcook r/v batteries or inverters as when you turn an inverter off its supposed to stop reverse voltage flow but after the vehicle is jumpstarted wrong the diode fails and should be used as a redundancy not a defense.........
You must totally protect the whole RV from Flyback...Look it up..
You heard it first from The Godfather to Understanding Flyback & The Way It Afflicts Vehicles..Take care
Did you also connect the factory supplied 10A In-Line FUSE between the panels and the controller along with the the circuit breaker that you bought?
I have thought alot about putting solar panels on the roof but i just cant bring myself to put more holes in it
Did you connect to your existing RV batteries? If so, and I want to upgrade to lithium, will the original charger on the RV still work with the new lithium batteries? Will anything conflict with my RV charger? I'm confused about this.
Why do all these RV How tos have so much time on the narrator? Tired of just looking at them and not the subject. Dude, I don't care what you look like. Don't think Hollywood is scanning youtube for future stars. If you are truly trying to help others then show the topic materials. I don't even watch these anymore. As soon as I see it's going to be another Vogue session I go on to another video.
I've been trying to find a video with an RV that is already 'Solar Prep' like mine..In one of the storage bins there is a Box marked 'Solar Ready' ( i Haven't checked what's inside of that box yet) and on top i have the already wired with a coupler on the roof to connect the solar panels...so basically once I know I want to connect the panels in parallel then to the coupler on top of the roof , then what would be next ? I know you need a controller, then wire (what size ?) to connect to the battery....This is where I'm stuck at..any suggestions ??
What I have found useless about all rv solar installs videos (not this one so much) is when you go much higher in wattage, like long runs for 12v 600watts plus. When you need 4 or 6 gauge wire but you can't find MC4 connectors that you can put on a 6AWG wire to plug into your panels. You almost have to go to a 48v panel because the current gets so high in a parallel setup.
So Jared, I get all that and thanks for the simple yet candid explanation .... The part that i don't get is how and where the solr system / controller plug into my"existing" power system? Can you let me know if you have a video explaining that part? Thank you, Geo
Good segment but still extremely confusing. Not visually showing enough, more talking.
What length of screw is strong enough to hold heavy panels a typical Class C roof (e.g. from Thor) without punching through to the interior side of the ceiling? I thought most roofs are a TPO thin membrane over 1" plywood sheet?
You talk fast enough to be a used car salesman. If I were serious about setting up a system, I'd have to watch this several times just to make sure I heard what you said. BTW, were you/are you a used car salesman? Just kidding...
Which Dicor product did you use? Can you send a link?
Also with the Rover charge controller. Is that located in a cabinet in your RV? Do you have enough ventilation?
Hi all about RVs I’m installing a system this year are you satisfied to have you with your system solar energy. Would you recommend that company? thank you
Hello great video..
I am Installing a new roof on my 5th wheel. Thought I’d pre-wire for solar while I have it tore apart. Went searching UA-cam. Behold I found your video right away. 1st time watching, it went way over my head. I’m back for a second viewing and making a lot more sense after educating myself a little about solar and terms. The problem is I am now more confused than before
Second part of my post.
I’m looking to install the same system you have. 4 panels , 30 amps.
What size wire do you run from the panels to the Rover? What design lay out did you decide? 2p2s or something different?
Greatly appreciate your input into my install?
Does anyone know if this is enough power to run the RVs ac unit? We’re thinking about putting our 37 ft camper somewhere without power and it’s important that we’re able to run the air conditioner and lights. TVs are not priority.
Thanks. Is it possible to make a smaller solar set up to cover most of the needs, but still use grid power if the solar battery is low? Or is that not possible? (I know very little about solar).
How many solar panels will need to run a refrigerator , TV , 3 cameras, AC, and alot of lights and I have a mobile barber in a 26ft trailer and all my clippers rechargeable
I have a Winnebago Micro Minnie and want to change over to lithium batteries. The easiest place for me to put the batteries is the storage under my queen bed. Should I be concerned about sleeping above the lithium batteries safety wise? Thanks in advance!
I live in my 32 foot rv. I need 5000w. I'm just starting this please give advice? Please 🙏
Great info Jared. Sub'd.
Anybody know how to find the MC4 ends? The link no longer works and it's the last piece to my puzzle.
Question; I have a camper with shore power or power via my truck alternator, charging the batteries now, Therefore do I have to shut off the solar power when connected to shore power as there would be 2 different power sources charging the batteries at the same time?
I've watched a lot of these videos... Where do I plug in my shore power converter charger for when solar isn't enough, or do I just need a transfer switch?
We are in the middle of a van conversion and are concerned about our auto insurance. I am pretty sure our insurance company won'tb accept the modifications we have made. We have done nothing out of the ordinary. The most ambitious things are a new seat in back of van and solar on the roof. What auto insurance so you use for your converted van?
Jared, as usual another great video! But I have to ask, was your rig brand new or did you just redo your roof? That is the cleanest, whitest roof I have ever seen! Lol
I am planning on a solar system but do not need AC so not going to use an inverter. Solar will go to controller, controller to batteries but how do I connect the DC system from my camper into the batteries. Right now it ties in with two wires at the tongue of the trailer and those two wires can also charge the batteries from the truck vis the 7 pin connector. My new batteries will be inside and next to the charge controller and then I need to connect it to the camper DC. Please let me know ideas on the best way to do this.
That's good to know all I have on my 85 fifth wheel is a 50 watt solorpanel and a lead acid battery and a small inverter to get me by for now any tip would help thabks
I have a 3000 watt pure sine inverter with a 24 volt system and 30 100w batterys why will it not charge my 2021 chevy bolt ev
I did not learn anything.
.
Your video is very general and nothing specific wors 10 min waist of my life
What does "replace cover" setting mean???? I can't find it anywhere.
What size is the fuse between the battery and charge controller ?
Ok, how about integrating a inverter with your converter that comes with your trailer, which in turn drives everything, or do you have a answer for that.😊
lets say i wanted to charge my fridge, two phones and two tablets, could a 400 watt system last me 2-3 days?
Can you run your ac unit off of that system?? Also do all your 120v outlets do they work with hat set up?
It shows you enjoy doing this kind of stuff. I hope that some of the suppliers see your video and send you stuff.
Personally, I would like to see a demonstration done with Volta systems. I hear these are on the high end but compared to what?
Thanks for what you do Jared
You make a awesome video for 2019 keep up the good work super hard work
Wonder if anyone can advise me, I am putting flexible panels on my rv, because I’m having them posted to where I am in Ukraine, the regular ones would be too heavy.. can anybody suggest a way to fix flex panels to the roof without putting holes in the roof? some sort of Velcro , or double sided tape? Thanks in advance
When you screw the panels to the roof. Is there a way to find the best place to drive the screw? Or ?
is a charge controller a inverter? do you not use an inverter? don't you need an inverter when is come to rv?
What can be powered by the solar setup you described? What type of solar system would be needed to power your camper as if it was plugged in at a full hookup rv camp site?
@Bruce Heckler - The other question you should also be asking is for how long do you want to power your rig as if it were plugged into shore power. Before you can even attempt to answer this you need to know how much power you are using during the day. A shunt based battery monitor like the Victron BMV-712 is a great way to find this out and that is why most people (including Jared) recommend that you install one of those first.
Having said that here is where I would start as a sizing guide:
I would suggest a 2000-3000 watt inverter to be able to run loads as if you were plugged into shore power.
The recommendation is to have at least one 100 amp hour (1200ish watt hour) Lithium battery for every 1000 wats of inverter. I would suggest no fewer than three batteries (in a 12v system)
As far as panels go, you should plan on having around 5 hours of “Solar generating time” per day (depending on latitude and time of year). If you are mounting your panels to the roof they probably won’t be generating at their maximum unless the sun is directory overhead so I would plan on them generating somewhere between 50-70% of their rating. That means that a panel rated at 100 watts will generate somewhere between 250-350 watt hours per day (50-70 watts X 5 hours)
You also need to make sure the solar charge controller you buy can handle the number of watts you want to add in panels. For example the 40 watt Renogy controller Jared has can handle a little over 500 watts for a 12v system and the 50 watt Victron (which was also shown in this video) can handle 700 watts. (These number double of you have a 24v setup, but I won’t go into that here).
So to do the math:
3 batteries (1200 watt hour X 3) = 3600 watt hours
3600 watt hours / 350 watt hours (best case solar generation) = ~10.3 panels required to charge empty batteries from full to empty during solar generating hours
For my personal setup I have 8x100 watt panels and 3x100 amp hour lithium batteries (in a 12v setup). I can run the all of the regular DC loads in addition to the dual fuel fridge on AC power and an AC powered mini drink fridge during “solar generating hours” and still have power for occasional use of other AC powered devices without having to touch the batteries (and actually charge them a bit). However as soon as the solar power generation drops off the batteries have to carry the loads. With just the base DC loads and the dual fuel fridge on AC and the AC mini fridge (no other AC or DC loads) my batteries are down to 50% by midnight.
I hope this (long) comment helped answer your question.
Simple?
2003 25' Airstream Classic.
Simpler...we charge two Zamp 180w portable panels thru the 7pin umbilical, into a Boondocker BD 1260L Lithium converter, 2 100ah Battleborn Lithium batteries, Victron 712 WIFI Monitor.
Done, no roof climbing, no hole drilling, no wiring. 👍
Thank you for simplifying this subject for me!
Does anyone have a way of protecting their solar panels in the winter when living in a place where it snows a lot?
Can you wire a 270w solar panel with a 400w panel together
As always awesome information my wife and I are picking up our newest 5th wheel toy hauler in a couple weeks and Solar is one of the first upgrades we want to do. I have watched several of your videos regarding solar and I appreciate your information.
Thanks! Have fun out there!
@@AllAboutRVshow do I know what breaker and fuse to get? I have a 5th wheel Coleman Dutchman
Can a solar MPPT controller replace the rvs controller charger or is this in addition to it?
What a beautiful explanation of simple solar, thank you
Hi Jared What state are you in I would love to hire you to help me set up my Montana.
Love the videos. Thanks for info. I have 200w portable suitcase mppt20a 700w inverter 12v 100ah lithium battery, but unsure best way to connect to travel trailer fuse box, converter
Any help /recommended reading would be appreciated. Thanks
Hey...thanks for your videos. So...I am planning an install of two 200W panels on the roof of my new 6x10 trailer conversion. I also have a portable set of panels I normally have used to charge my portable Jackery. I will be joining the two sets of wires from the panels into one set using a y-connector. I would like to install another Y-connector later in that short cable run to my Renogy controller. That would allow me to, on occasion, plug-in my portable panels if I wanted to gain a little more input. Sound like a workable plan? Thanks.
It seems always when I am searching youtube for my RV renovation questions, I always come back to YOUR channel, Thanks for your GHrrrteat explanations!. Question, I am in the process of replacing the entire roof on my 5th wheel. I intend to install solar next year (when I can afford it, lol!) but while I am ripping off and replacing the roof, is there anything you suggest I do in THIS project to install brackets or whatever to allow me to more easily install a solar system next year when I can get to that project? Thanks!!!
Would I have to gut my pop up completely to do this or is it a bit simpler than that?
Nice informative vidéo. I'm starting in solar and have a 50 amp FW. I want to start with 400w. Now is it better 4x100w or 2x200w ? My understanding is to Install at least 2 in series so the voltage will be around 40v. I see a lot of 4x100w so is there a particular raison ? Tks
Great video I’m pretty handy on everything I do but when it comes to Solar, I don’t know nothing. Your video clarified that it’s not as hard as it looks.
So I subscribe to your channel to walk me through the whole procedure I purchased a 2020 holiday rambler vacationer 35p it already has one solar panel on the roof. My question is if I buy the kit you have listed 400 W can I connect those panels to the existing panel that’s already on the roof Would love to hear your input and two cents on this installation that I will be starting in the next month. Thank you once again.
Solar power is great when there is a need. Charging batteries, off the grid in the RV, and saving on residential power Bill's. We dont need it but if we did I would recommend this channel for how to advise
Thank you!
You mentioned that you don't tilt your panels. Is that due to the mounting hardware? It's limited in that way? Are there hardware kits that give you that ability, but also can be mounted to the roof? Are those panels safe to drive down the road with simply screwing them into the roof? Do you have to look for supports in the roof to drill into or can you simply pick any spot? What's your current setup look like now compared to when this was posted?
Question from someone who knows nothing. We have a 50 amp fifth wheel. Wouldn’t we need a 50 amp or greater system? Your setup was 40 amp, is your trailer 30 amp hookup then?
I’d really like to see you draw a diagram of a basic solar system using lithium batteries. You say it’s simple, but I don’t think it is. Show all pats, controllers, switches, all in diagram. That would help me. Thanks!
Is lithium battery storage the only limiting factor for boondocking? When we get there in about 4-6 years, we would like to boondock about a week at a time. Going to a park once a week to take care of tanks etc. After retirement hopefully being out for 4-5 weeks at a time
Very useful information thank you bro.