I just want to say "thank you" because of "you" I have changed my own oil, transmission fluid, transfer case fluid, and differential fluid! You have saved me a lot of money! Your videos are always so nice & easy to follow! "Thank you" again! God Bless :)
This video was a great help. The rear three are not as easy as the front but it's very doable as long as you have the proper tools. I did my 2010 MDX in a little more than an hour with success and saved the $400 the dealership was trying to charge me
Great video, thanks for making this as easy as possible for those of us who view your work on line. Actually the rear spark plugs facing the engine fire wall were much easier to replace than those facing the radiator, as there was more clearance for the spark plug wrenches, etc. Made this a comfortable and straight forward repair, took about two hours in total. Thanks again.
Thanks again for this video. Just as helpful in 2018, as it is in 2020. Today I just replaced the spark plugs in our 2012 MDX. The front 3 were as easy as in this video, but the rear (1) far left and the far right (3) were very tough to get. The left has the A/C lines going into the firewall, making it hard to reach the spark plug, but after using some shorter extension I was able to get in there. The hardest was that far-right rear where the coolant line goes into the firewall. I removed the hose first, cleaned everything and then was able to remove everything. I have no idea how in the world you got in there without removing that hose? I just wish I watched this video first before ordering plugs. I have always done my own spark plug changes for my Accords and Civics, and those are so extremely easy, but the MDX is much more time-consuming but definitely worth doing it oneself. I just wish I looked at the parts number first. After viewing the NGK website I choose the LKR7DIX-11S Iridium IX Plugs. They have the same shell and specifications almost, except the LKR7DIX-11S only have longevity of 50K and have Nickel ground electrodes whereas the ILZKR7B-11S are 100K and are Platinum ground electrodes. I wish I would have purchased the LKR7DIX-11S for sure. The cost difference between Nickel and Platinum is $5.19 USD (31 USD more for 6), but darn well worth the extra money so one does not have to do this twice, haha... Always look at part numbers folks. ;)
Thanks! Recently changed the plugs again (and shot another video with detailed rear bank of plugs). While it is more challenging, I did not have to remove anything, it’s just a matter of wiggling around and having the right set of extensions.
@@AcuraAddicted Thanks for these awesome videos. Those spark plugs I replaced now are covered with some oil, it appears that the plug hole seals are leaking oil into the spark plug hole and now when I try and start the MDX it hesitates to start, after about 8 seconds it will start if the engine has been sitting for a few hours, but if warm it will start up. I noticed some burn-up oil on the rear pipes, where usually it was immaculate. Yesterday the check engine turned on staying low on oil, so some how it's burning oil. DO you have a video for replacing the Plug Hole Seals on these MDX's?
Thanks for your feedback! Will definitely cover the timing belt / water pump when time comes (the first one was already done at 100K miles / 160K kms, I will probably be doing another one around 175K miles / 280K kms, so some time next year, because it's been four years since the last change).
Grew a pair after watching your vid and just changed the plugs. The rear bank was a bit of a bitch. Taking it to the dealer today to find out whats clunking in the front end. Sposibo comrade Bogdan. Two solid shots of Vodka to you!!
Hey, glad my content inspired you! Yes, the back ones are a bit tough since you are basically working blind there. Good luck to you on resolving the clunk! I hope it’s nothing major. Na zdorovje!
You probably got low quality or counterfeit plugs then. For iridium quality plugs when you check the gap, you actually damage the very thin iridium covered tips.
YES !! Today's spark plugs CAN last 100,000 miles -- IF they have been PROPERLY gapped before installation. Those so-called "Pre-Gapped" plugs are rarely at the proper gap for the vehicle.
@@AcuraAddicted NAH. Those Iridium deposits on the electrodes are not that fragile. Spark Plugs gaps should be checked with a WIRE gauge, so as not to damage the tips.
Hi Bogdan, First, thank you for inspiring and detail videos! Second, could you correct the link to torque wrench for US amazon? It points to 30 to 150-foot pound torque wrench, which is outside of the required 13 ft/lb for this job. I ordered one without checking (this shows the level of my trust in you :)), and had to return it later. I just did an extra 1/3-1/2 a turn after tightening spark plugs manually (as probably most people do). Keep up the great job!
Thank you for your feedback! Yes, 1/3 to half a turn is fine for spark plugs. I'm sorry the link was incorrect, unfortunately, the products can be updated without notification. I fixed the link now.
Very helpful. One of the back is give trouble. Counterclockwise. It gets tighter clockwise it gets tight. I think I'm going to leave it in. I don't want to risk. What do you think?. I'll have to retread the whole head.
I ran out of juice for my camera with that one. But you pretty much do it blindfolded, because there is no physical way for you to see, there is only enough space for your hand. I’ll be making another video with higher quality, stab and more viewing angles later when I change my spark plugs again.
probably got to it already, but rears are as said just blindfolded and done by feeling. You remove the same little nut that holds the coil pack in place. Feel for it and you'll feel it. The only connector that needs removing from the coil pack is #3 (back cylinder, driver's side) because a metal tube is in the way to prevent the coil pack from simply being pulled out. All the others, they can be pulled with connector on.
Hey buddy! I subscribed to your channel! Nice video man! I’ll be making one soon! On my MDX.. what I was hoping to see was how difficult it was for you to reach the back ones? I’ll try to film the process as well!
Thanks! It is fairly straightforward, although you are basically doing this blind, because you won't be able to see unless you stick some sort of remote controlled small camera and transmit the video to a screen or something.
Thanks for the spark plug video, can't wait to give it a try. Any reason why you cant use the plastic, magnetic spark plug tool to unscrew/rescrew the spark plug in? if only 13lbs/ft torque, would assume you should work, shouldn't it?
Thanks! I don't know if I would use plastic tool, the plugs can be there pretty tight. If you shatter the plastic tool, you're going to have a really hard time to get the pieces out as they are not magnetic.
Okay, third question, why replace the engine cover and the radiator cover, I think you called it? Purely aesthetic, or are there any functional reasons for these components?
How do you count the ignition coil on 2011 Acura MDX I have number 4 is bad it causes the 4th cylinder misfire. I try to change it myself but I don’t know which one them is number 4 coil. Please help Thank you
Yo Bagdan, why does one of your front ignition coils look brand new, and the other two look like they've been left in coffee for a week? I pulled my front 3 (trying to get a broken PCV valve out of the valve cover, an expensive nightmare...) and two looked brand new, the third to the right, facing towards the front of the engine, looked like Keith Richards was soaked in coffee for a week... why the difference?
I wouldn’t say it’s easy, but it’s definitely doable. What is shown in the video was my first time doing it, first time spark plug change in my life. You are basically working blind there, but it’s fine.
Thank you for your videos. They are really helpful. I have a question, my Acura MDX 08 was having transmission problem, I got that fixed. I haven't been driving it for a year now...I just got it back on the road again, but I noticed that when driving it, it is acting like as if someone is pressing on the break every 10 seconds. Can you please tell me what's probably wrong with it? Thank you!
Thanks for your feedback! If your car has been sitting for a year, your brakes might act up. Calipers can be seized, for example. You should have your brakes looked at first. Also, if you haven’t been driving your car for a year, I highly recommend oil, atf, transfer case and rear diff fluids change. Oil needs to be changed 100%. Does the car sound right? Any errors?
@@AcuraAddicted Oh okay, I understand and I will have them looked at today. He sounds fine but there's a message on the dashboard saying that check TPMS. But I know that my tires need to be replaced since before it had the transmission problem. What would you suggest I do please?
@@junie-fedmichel3091 If you see Check TPMS and when you check in on your dashboard and only see dashes instead of the actual pressure in the tires (assuming you have the sensors installed), this means batteries in one or more sensors have run out. In this case you'll need to replace the sensors, if you want to get rid of the message. The best time to replace sensors is when changing your tires.
No. Even at 175K miles it looks clean and doesn’t need cleaning. Also, do not clean it if you do not have a Honda scanner that has TB position relearning capability.
Bogdan, did you notice that spark plug in 2nd cylinder had much wider brown stripe on it's isolation? AFAIK, that might be caused by loose contact with ignition coil. It eventually may cause degraded performance or even outage of plug
Good catch! I haven't had any related issues since 2014 when I filmed this, though, so I think I dodged the bullet. I will be changing the spark plugs again some time later this year with a better quality footage and more close-up inspection. I will also be replacing the coils.
Hi, your instructional videos are wonderful. I do want to share that the NGK link for the US 6 pack of IZFR5K11 are not the same size as the original Denso that I just removed and compared. The threaded base on the new NGK is about 7-8mm shorter than the original factory Denso SXU22HCR11S that I just extracted. I didn’t look in my manual until now (my error) and the NGK part number is ILZKR7B11S for my 2011 MDX. Would this difference in number and size apply to 2010-2013?
Hi Eric. Thank you for your feedback! And thanks for pointing this out. I think there’s something wrong with the part numbers. I’m going to have to check on it when I have access to my computer.
Just looked further into it, and it seems that Acura has updated their P/N charts and compatibility. There are now three types of different plugs quoted for different 2-nd gen years: 2007-2009 (Denso), 2010-2011 (NGK) and 2012-2013 (other DENSO). I was not able to find a reliable source for the 2010+ cars, but I updated the description to reflect the proper P/Ns (both Acura official ones and DENSO/NGK P/Ns.
Most experienced mechanics and racers DO NOT use Anti-Seize when installing spark plugs. Modern, high-quality spark plugs are PLATED, and no Anti-Seize is required or recommended.
@@AcuraAddicted Bosch Double Iridium plugs are plated -- and are installed DRY. The Anti-Seize is NOT the problem -- the problem is that a lot of people have poor work habits, and they get the stuff in places that CAN do harm. You can't fix stupid, but you CAN prevent it by NOT using Anti-Seize.
It is more convenient. But it is possible with a straight extension, just for some plugs you’ll have to remove the wrench first before you take out the plug.
Yes, you don’t need to disconnect any hoses to get all of the plugs out. In the back you are doing it blindly as you can’t see. But I haven’t had any problems getting them out.
@@AcuraAddicted One thing I noticed. Your links provided have the NGK IZFR5K11. However, everything I can read suggest the NGK IZFR6K11. I'm sure one is just slightly hotter than the other. After ordering from your link I also noticed ~20% of reviews claim the plugs received are fake. That worried me, so I just went to the local store and bought (6) genuine plugs of the 6K11 variety.
@@scottphillips88 There might be counterfeits, of course. Best is always to get authentic product directly from the manufacturer. Especially when it comes to important parts that affect your engine performance. I got mine off eBay five years ago when I did this replacement. They are still good up to now, 50K miles later. Will probably switch them again this year with a more detailed video (people have complained I haven't covered the back bank well enough).
It's not easy, you'd have to remove some bolts. I haven't done it fully even for removing the head covers, so I cannot show you, you're going to have to figure it out on your own.
Which way did you loosen the back ignition coil bolts? Do you turn the tool to the left or right.... I know the front ones we turn to the left but since they’re in the back is it the same process to loosen?
I have 2008 Acura MDX US technology package and I need to replace the shocks. I believe that the car have active damper system. I do I change it without paying too much money for it. I saw your video on how to change. Any suggestions for me?
Yes, you can swap it for regular suspension using the dampers I used (I have separate videos on front and back). You’re going to have to use some resistors to fool the system that proper dampers are installed, if you don’t want the ADS light showing on your dashboard. Otherwise it’s bolt on.
Hi , I have a question if you could help me please and thank you. I recently cleaned my throttle body on 2009 mdx , thats how I did it , turned egnition on and some one pressed the gaspedal all the way then I sprayed throttle body cleaner on fiber cloth and cleaned it after cleaning the check engine light comes on and the rpm was jumping up and down while releasing the gaspedal so some one cleared the code and reset the tps by scanner but still the rpm are jumping up and down when I push the brake and also the rpm doesn't come down normally when I release the gaspedal. Also another problem, my car doesnt pick up speed fast from stop sign. Any advice please
You never touch the throttle body in this car unless you have a scanner capable of TB position learning. Without this procedure you’ll have what you’re having now. You need a proper scanner for the position learning procedure.
@@AcuraAddicted Thank you for responding!! I hope I can do it on my own because dealership is charging almost $500 and I can buy the original ones for around $75!!. Will be my first time doing it and I hope will be worth it.
Thanks for your feedback! I have no idea what makes you mention Hyundai, though. There was no Hyundai mentioned in this video. Acura is Honda's luxury brand, this has nothing to do with Hyundai.
No problem man. Quick question how tight do they need to be because I just hand tightened them then used the ratchet to give about close to about half a turn. I do not own a torque wrench and never used one before to changed spark plugs
@@rbkbthekrew What you did was correct. The proper torque for the MDX plugs is 13 lbf*ft, but doing what you did is the universal way of tightening them.
Да, многое там очень доступно, правда с пересылкой это немного портит картину, особенно на крупных узлах, таких как генераторы и прочее. Но всё же очень часто можно купить сторонние аналоги недорого. Однако из моего опыта для MDX аналоги по цене, сходной с оригиналом или дешевле, не настолько качественные, как оригинал. Это относится к MDX, конечно. На других моделях может быть по-другому.
What if I change the Spark plugs and I still have a few issues. (1) Having a horrible misfire still. (2). The idle drops all the way down and the vehicle shakes and dies.{3} The Damn check engine light comes on and off and starts blinking at times..😮😢 Please Lmk ASAP What I should/could do? What do you think it is? Or anyone else with the same situation and issues?? Same 2006 Acura MDX Touring Edition. Thanks and please let me know ASAP... Thanks 🙏👍👌🤞❤️
Hello. A misfire can be caused by many things. First thing you need to do when you see a check engine light is basic diagnostics: pulling out error codes. Electrically, if you ruled out spark plugs, it can be coils (really easy to confirm by swapping nearby coils and seeing if the misfire is still there). It could be a particular cylinder compression issue as well. In any case, proper diagnostics should show. Good luck!
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
First! 😉
You got it, buddy!
I just want to say "thank you" because of "you" I have changed my own oil, transmission fluid, transfer case fluid, and differential fluid! You have saved me a lot of money! Your videos are always so nice & easy to follow! "Thank you" again! God Bless :)
Thank you very much for such a sweet feedback, Sherri! Music to my ears!
@@AcuraAddicted Your welcome, "Thank you"! :)
I had the same experience. You gave me the confidence to work on my own car and save money.
This video was a great help. The rear three are not as easy as the front but it's very doable as long as you have the proper tools. I did my 2010 MDX in a little more than an hour with success and saved the $400 the dealership was trying to charge me
Great video, thanks for making this as easy as possible for those of us who view your work on line. Actually the rear spark plugs facing the engine fire wall were much easier to replace than those facing the radiator, as there was more clearance for the spark plug wrenches, etc.
Made this a comfortable and straight forward repair, took about two hours in total. Thanks again.
Acura Addicted always has the best videos!! Thanks
Hi Eric, thanks a lot for this, it means a lot when people appreciate what I do! All the best, man!
Bogdan, your videos are amazingly simple and well structured, hence very valuable!
Keep up the great job!
Thank you for your feedback!
My comments relate to my 2001 Acura MDX, I realized I did not specify the year of my Acura in my original comments. Thanks again
Another great video, AA!! Your channel is the first place I head if I need to do something new to my X. Thank you!!
Thanks, and I’m glad this helps!
Thanks again for this video. Just as helpful in 2018, as it is in 2020. Today I just replaced the spark plugs in our 2012 MDX. The front 3 were as easy as in this video, but the rear (1) far left and the far right (3) were very tough to get. The left has the A/C lines going into the firewall, making it hard to reach the spark plug, but after using some shorter extension I was able to get in there. The hardest was that far-right rear where the coolant line goes into the firewall. I removed the hose first, cleaned everything and then was able to remove everything. I have no idea how in the world you got in there without removing that hose?
I just wish I watched this video first before ordering plugs. I have always done my own spark plug changes for my Accords and Civics, and those are so extremely easy, but the MDX is much more time-consuming but definitely worth doing it oneself. I just wish I looked at the parts number first.
After viewing the NGK website I choose the LKR7DIX-11S Iridium IX Plugs. They have the same shell and specifications almost, except the LKR7DIX-11S only have longevity of 50K and have Nickel ground electrodes whereas the ILZKR7B-11S are 100K and are Platinum ground electrodes. I wish I would have purchased the LKR7DIX-11S for sure. The cost difference between Nickel and Platinum is $5.19 USD (31 USD more for 6), but darn well worth the extra money so one does not have to do this twice, haha... Always look at part numbers folks. ;)
Thanks! Recently changed the plugs again (and shot another video with detailed rear bank of plugs). While it is more challenging, I did not have to remove anything, it’s just a matter of wiggling around and having the right set of extensions.
@@AcuraAddicted Thanks for these awesome videos. Those spark plugs I replaced now are covered with some oil, it appears that the plug hole seals are leaking oil into the spark plug hole and now when I try and start the MDX it hesitates to start, after about 8 seconds it will start if the engine has been sitting for a few hours, but if warm it will start up. I noticed some burn-up oil on the rear pipes, where usually it was immaculate. Yesterday the check engine turned on staying low on oil, so some how it's burning oil. DO you have a video for replacing the Plug Hole Seals on these MDX's?
Great help. Used this video to change my plugs last month! Now if I can just diagnose the clunking in my front when I hit small bumps!
Struts??
thanks for the video I'm a new subscriber and have a 2016 Acura MDX thanks again!
Love all the Mdx videos you have out. Would like to see timing belt/water pump video
Thanks for your feedback! Will definitely cover the timing belt / water pump when time comes (the first one was already done at 100K miles / 160K kms, I will probably be doing another one around 175K miles / 280K kms, so some time next year, because it's been four years since the last change).
Do you by any chance, know how to adjust the headlight bulb from left to right.
Grew a pair after watching your vid and just changed the plugs. The rear bank was a bit of a bitch. Taking it to the dealer today to find out whats clunking in the front end. Sposibo comrade Bogdan. Two solid shots of Vodka to you!!
Hey, glad my content inspired you! Yes, the back ones are a bit tough since you are basically working blind there. Good luck to you on resolving the clunk! I hope it’s nothing major. Na zdorovje!
Great video! I will tackle this task soon on my mdx.
Thanks! Should be pretty straightforward. Good luck!
Still check the GAP, even though they say pre-gapped make sure you check the gap I've had gaps that were way off on "Gap less" plugs.
You probably got low quality or counterfeit plugs then. For iridium quality plugs when you check the gap, you actually damage the very thin iridium covered tips.
YES !! Today's spark plugs CAN last 100,000 miles -- IF they have been PROPERLY gapped before installation. Those so-called "Pre-Gapped" plugs are rarely at the proper gap for the vehicle.
@@AcuraAddicted NAH. Those Iridium deposits on the electrodes are not that fragile.
Spark Plugs gaps should be checked with a WIRE gauge, so as not to damage the tips.
Good job, bro!
Been very helpful.
Have 2010 rl , 2015 rdx and 2015 mdx.
Thank you
Thanks for your feedback! Wow, quite a collection you have!
Love videos, brother.
So helpful and inspiring.
I adore mdxs
And do much DIYs too.
Thanks a lot! Glad it helps!
Hi Bogdan,
First, thank you for inspiring and detail videos!
Second, could you correct the link to torque wrench for US amazon? It points to 30 to 150-foot pound torque wrench, which is outside of the required 13 ft/lb for this job.
I ordered one without checking (this shows the level of my trust in you :)), and had to return it later.
I just did an extra 1/3-1/2 a turn after tightening spark plugs manually (as probably most people do).
Keep up the great job!
Thank you for your feedback! Yes, 1/3 to half a turn is fine for spark plugs. I'm sorry the link was incorrect, unfortunately, the products can be updated without notification. I fixed the link now.
You’re vids are awesome- America says so.
Why, thank you very much!
Very helpful. One of the back is give trouble. Counterclockwise. It gets tighter clockwise it gets tight. I think I'm going to leave it in. I don't want to risk. What do you think?. I'll have to retread the whole head.
First of all THANK YOU! Second can I use a different size ratchet? Ie. 1/2 rachet??
You’re welcome! I used a smaller one just to fit it. I don’t know if you can fit a 1/2” ratchet there.
Which one is number 4? Is it the one in the front on the left? Do you have to disconnect the negative cable to the battery?
ua-cam.com/video/sj8DB-KynsQ/v-deo.html
Do you have any idea if the process would be the same on a 2016 MDX. Great video, by the way.
Pretty much.
Is there a director's cut version of the video that shows you do the rear bank ?
I ran out of juice for my camera with that one. But you pretty much do it blindfolded, because there is no physical way for you to see, there is only enough space for your hand. I’ll be making another video with higher quality, stab and more viewing angles later when I change my spark plugs again.
@@AcuraAddicted where is the visual for the rear ones between the firewall?
probably got to it already, but rears are as said just blindfolded and done by feeling. You remove the same little nut that holds the coil pack in place. Feel for it and you'll feel it. The only connector that needs removing from the coil pack is #3 (back cylinder, driver's side) because a metal tube is in the way to prevent the coil pack from simply being pulled out. All the others, they can be pulled with connector on.
Hey buddy! I subscribed to your channel! Nice video man! I’ll be making one soon! On my MDX.. what I was hoping to see was how difficult it was for you to reach the back ones? I’ll try to film the process as well!
Thanks! It is fairly straightforward, although you are basically doing this blind, because you won't be able to see unless you stick some sort of remote controlled small camera and transmit the video to a screen or something.
Ahh! I see... well! Wish me luck! Lol
Good luck :)
Thanks for the spark plug video, can't wait to give it a try. Any reason why you cant use the plastic, magnetic spark plug tool to unscrew/rescrew the spark plug in? if only 13lbs/ft torque, would assume you should work, shouldn't it?
Thanks! I don't know if I would use plastic tool, the plugs can be there pretty tight. If you shatter the plastic tool, you're going to have a really hard time to get the pieces out as they are not magnetic.
Okay, third question, why replace the engine cover and the radiator cover, I think you called it? Purely aesthetic, or are there any functional reasons for these components?
Not replace. Reinstall, so put them back, since I removed them for this process.
Nice
How do you count the ignition coil on 2011 Acura MDX I have number 4 is bad it causes the 4th cylinder misfire. I try to change it myself but I don’t know which one them is number 4 coil. Please help
Thank you
I got you. Here's the numbering of all of the cylinders (pause there and use as a reference): ua-cam.com/video/sj8DB-KynsQ/v-deo.html
Yo Bagdan, why does one of your front ignition coils look brand new, and the other two look like they've been left in coffee for a week?
I pulled my front 3 (trying to get a broken PCV valve out of the valve cover, an expensive nightmare...) and two looked brand new, the third to the right, facing towards the front of the engine, looked like Keith Richards was soaked in coffee for a week... why the difference?
Bad spark plug tube seals = oil seeping through the valve heads onto the coils.
Great! Do you have any fuel injector replacement video? And gasket replacement?
No fuel injector replacement video. As for the gasket - which gasket?
So are the 3 in the back easy to get to? Cuz it don’t look like it to me!
I wouldn’t say it’s easy, but it’s definitely doable. What is shown in the video was my first time doing it, first time spark plug change in my life. You are basically working blind there, but it’s fine.
Thank you for your videos. They are really helpful. I have a question, my Acura MDX 08 was having transmission problem, I got that fixed. I haven't been driving it for a year now...I just got it back on the road again, but I noticed that when driving it, it is acting like as if someone is pressing on the break every 10 seconds. Can you please tell me what's probably wrong with it? Thank you!
Thanks for your feedback! If your car has been sitting for a year, your brakes might act up. Calipers can be seized, for example. You should have your brakes looked at first. Also, if you haven’t been driving your car for a year, I highly recommend oil, atf, transfer case and rear diff fluids change. Oil needs to be changed 100%. Does the car sound right? Any errors?
@@AcuraAddicted Oh okay, I understand and I will have them looked at today. He sounds fine but there's a message on the dashboard saying that check TPMS. But I know that my tires need to be replaced since before it had the transmission problem. What would you suggest I do please?
@@junie-fedmichel3091 If you see Check TPMS and when you check in on your dashboard and only see dashes instead of the actual pressure in the tires (assuming you have the sensors installed), this means batteries in one or more sensors have run out. In this case you'll need to replace the sensors, if you want to get rid of the message. The best time to replace sensors is when changing your tires.
@@AcuraAddicted Thank you very much. You're the best...Happy Holidays!
@@junie-fedmichel3091 You are welcome! Thanks!
Thanks!
You’re welcome!
So NGK or Denso? They seem the same.
I used NGK in this video, but recently changed spark plugs again and used Denso this time. Both NGK and Denso worked.
Did you ever cleaning throttle bodies of MDX?
No. Even at 175K miles it looks clean and doesn’t need cleaning. Also, do not clean it if you do not have a Honda scanner that has TB position relearning capability.
@@AcuraAddicted Thanks for letting me know..
Bogdan, did you notice that spark plug in 2nd cylinder had much wider brown stripe on it's isolation? AFAIK, that might be caused by loose contact with ignition coil. It eventually may cause degraded performance or even outage of plug
Good catch! I haven't had any related issues since 2014 when I filmed this, though, so I think I dodged the bullet. I will be changing the spark plugs again some time later this year with a better quality footage and more close-up inspection. I will also be replacing the coils.
@@AcuraAddicted looking forward for new DIY episodes :)
Hi, your instructional videos are wonderful. I do want to share that the NGK link for the US 6 pack of IZFR5K11 are not the same size as the original Denso that I just removed and compared. The threaded base on the new NGK is about 7-8mm shorter than the original factory Denso SXU22HCR11S that I just extracted. I didn’t look in my manual until now (my error) and the NGK part number is ILZKR7B11S for my 2011 MDX. Would this difference in number and size apply to 2010-2013?
Hi Eric. Thank you for your feedback! And thanks for pointing this out. I think there’s something wrong with the part numbers. I’m going to have to check on it when I have access to my computer.
Just looked further into it, and it seems that Acura has updated their P/N charts and compatibility. There are now three types of different plugs quoted for different 2-nd gen years: 2007-2009 (Denso), 2010-2011 (NGK) and 2012-2013 (other DENSO). I was not able to find a reliable source for the 2010+ cars, but I updated the description to reflect the proper P/Ns (both Acura official ones and DENSO/NGK P/Ns.
Love your videos!!!
Thanks a lot for your feedback!
Righty tighty lefty loosey. I like I'm in the twilight zone. Counterclockwise in the back as well. It's used no telling.
Just out of curiosity, I noticed that no anti-sieze was applied to the spark plug threads. Is that normal?
Good question. All of these Iridium OEM plugs come with anti-seize preapplied.
all ngk plugs go into factory assemblies dry... I've done both on my cars without incident
Most experienced mechanics and racers DO NOT use Anti-Seize when installing spark plugs.
Modern, high-quality spark plugs are PLATED, and no Anti-Seize is required or recommended.
@@AcuraAddicted Bosch Double Iridium plugs are plated -- and are installed DRY.
The Anti-Seize is NOT the problem -- the problem is that a lot of people have poor work habits, and they get the stuff in places that CAN do harm.
You can't fix stupid, but you CAN prevent it by NOT using Anti-Seize.
I take it you don’t have enough room to remove the spark plug with the first extension ? Is this why you use a flex type extension instead?
It is more convenient. But it is possible with a straight extension, just for some plugs you’ll have to remove the wrench first before you take out the plug.
any advice on the plug beneath the heater hose (near firewall on driver's side)? apparently you did it without disconnecting the hose?
Yes, you don’t need to disconnect any hoses to get all of the plugs out. In the back you are doing it blindly as you can’t see. But I haven’t had any problems getting them out.
Well done video. Subscribed and thanks!
Thank you for your feedback!
@@AcuraAddicted One thing I noticed. Your links provided have the NGK IZFR5K11. However, everything I can read suggest the NGK IZFR6K11. I'm sure one is just slightly hotter than the other. After ordering from your link I also noticed ~20% of reviews claim the plugs received are fake. That worried me, so I just went to the local store and bought (6) genuine plugs of the 6K11 variety.
@@scottphillips88 There might be counterfeits, of course. Best is always to get authentic product directly from the manufacturer. Especially when it comes to important parts that affect your engine performance. I got mine off eBay five years ago when I did this replacement. They are still good up to now, 50K miles later. Will probably switch them again this year with a more detailed video (people have complained I haven't covered the back bank well enough).
hey bogdan how do you remove the wiring harness on top of the valve covers its so difficult to work with that on
It's not easy, you'd have to remove some bolts. I haven't done it fully even for removing the head covers, so I cannot show you, you're going to have to figure it out on your own.
Which way did you loosen the back ignition coil bolts? Do you turn the tool to the left or right.... I know the front ones we turn to the left but since they’re in the back is it the same process to loosen?
It's the same process to loosen the rear ignition coil nuts: counter clockwise.
When the head of the bolt is AWAY from you, you turn the wrench in the opposite direction of when the head of the bolt is TOWARD you.
I have 2008 Acura MDX US technology package and I need to replace the shocks. I believe that the car have active damper system. I do I change it without paying too much money for it. I saw your video on how to change. Any suggestions for me?
Yes, you can swap it for regular suspension using the dampers I used (I have separate videos on front and back). You’re going to have to use some resistors to fool the system that proper dampers are installed, if you don’t want the ADS light showing on your dashboard. Otherwise it’s bolt on.
@@AcuraAddicted thanks for you reply. Do you have a video for how to change for register
No, because I didn’t have ADS, mine is the tech model. But you can look it up on UA-cam, there are a couple.
Hi , I have a question if you could help me please and thank you. I recently cleaned my throttle body on 2009 mdx , thats how I did it , turned egnition on and some one pressed the gaspedal all the way then I sprayed throttle body cleaner on fiber cloth and cleaned it after cleaning the check engine light comes on and the rpm was jumping up and down while releasing the gaspedal so some one cleared the code and reset the tps by scanner but still the rpm are jumping up and down when I push the brake and also the rpm doesn't come down normally when I release the gaspedal. Also another problem, my car doesnt pick up speed fast from stop sign. Any advice please
You never touch the throttle body in this car unless you have a scanner capable of TB position learning. Without this procedure you’ll have what you’re having now. You need a proper scanner for the position learning procedure.
You will need to go to a mechanic that has a scan tool & do the idle re learn procedure
FROM ALL THE VIDEOS I CHECKED, NONE OF THEM SHOWS YOU HOW TO REPLACE THE REAR ONES. I guess front are the easy ones.
There’s simply no space for the camera in the back. They are not difficult. You just do it blind.
Acura Addicted thank you for you fast reply Sir
Do you have to replace the coils at 100k miles when replacing the spark plugs the first time?
No, you don't. You only replace coils if they either start malfunctioning or deteriorate.
@@AcuraAddicted Thank you for responding!! I hope I can do it on my own because dealership is charging almost $500 and I can buy the original ones for around $75!!. Will be my first time doing it and I hope will be worth it.
Здравствуй, Богдан! ЛАЙК без вопросов, как и всегда 👌 👍 А на нашем языке будет 😀?!
Привет, Олег! А как же! Не далее как завтра!
Спасибо! Всегда жду, очень всё интересно!
did you replace the 3 rear plugs?
Yes.
Very good work but Hyundai doesn’t make Acura’s is Honda. Hyundai makes Kia
Thanks for your feedback! I have no idea what makes you mention Hyundai, though. There was no Hyundai mentioned in this video. Acura is Honda's luxury brand, this has nothing to do with Hyundai.
What do you mean by precoded spark plugs ?
Pre-coated. They come pre-coated. Meaning they already have a coat of anti-seize on them, so you don't need to apply more.
Ohhh okay haha I thought i heard you say pre coded my bad. Good vid btw !
@@rbkbthekrew Haha. Probably my accent! Thanks!
No problem man. Quick question how tight do they need to be because I just hand tightened them then used the ratchet to give about close to about half a turn. I do not own a torque wrench and never used one before to changed spark plugs
@@rbkbthekrew What you did was correct. The proper torque for the MDX plugs is 13 lbf*ft, but doing what you did is the universal way of tightening them.
Just buy a snap-on spark plug socket
It is on the list of recommended tools for this video as well as used in the video itself at 4:57.
Code Radio Acura MDX2006
You can always get a code from an Acura dealer.
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/acura,2008,mdx,3.7l+v6,1441741,ignition,spark+plug,7212
цены на вечи
Спасибо за информацию! Да, там можно купить иридиевые NGK и DENSO, которые использует производитель.
Да, многое там очень доступно, правда с пересылкой это немного портит картину, особенно на крупных узлах, таких как генераторы и прочее. Но всё же очень часто можно купить сторонние аналоги недорого. Однако из моего опыта для MDX аналоги по цене, сходной с оригиналом или дешевле, не настолько качественные, как оригинал. Это относится к MDX, конечно. На других моделях может быть по-другому.
What if I change the Spark plugs and I still have a few issues. (1) Having a horrible misfire still.
(2). The idle drops all the way down and the vehicle shakes and dies.{3} The Damn check engine light comes on and off and starts blinking at times..😮😢 Please Lmk ASAP What I should/could do? What do you think it is? Or anyone else with the same situation and issues?? Same 2006 Acura MDX Touring Edition. Thanks and please let me know ASAP... Thanks
🙏👍👌🤞❤️
Hello. A misfire can be caused by many things. First thing you need to do when you see a check engine light is basic diagnostics: pulling out error codes.
Electrically, if you ruled out spark plugs, it can be coils (really easy to confirm by swapping nearby coils and seeing if the misfire is still there).
It could be a particular cylinder compression issue as well. In any case, proper diagnostics should show. Good luck!