4:52 The automatic center punch you have there is for hinges, it's to help you locate the center of a hinge hole. You put the punch on the hole so it fits on the countersinking and then press, you have now the exact center where the screw has to be located.
I forgot to mention I use mine for broken screw extraction. I make an indention to the side of the broken screw/bolt and then use the punch at an angle to turn the screw out.
Thank you for this video. I've used the Blue Point YA-900 for 23 years and it finally quit working. I watched your disassembly/reassembly video because my center punch became a one hit wonder after I had taken it apart to clean it. The concave barrel still isn't resetting like it should, but at least I know I have everything in the proper order and facing the correct direction.
i have one from the harbor freight, it works really good. i feel the tip is a little soft. this is the best center punch video i have watched. it is quick, precise, and straight to the point.
The "red one" is the American made Lisle 30280. Lisle is closely related with automotive tools. Look up this brand and model number on Amazon. A reviewer posted a very good breakdown photo on how the parts should be assembled.
Thanks for this video!! I found it to be a great explanation of the inner workings of the spring-loaded center punches, as well as the difference between the different types of styles. I myself purchased a Husky spring-loaded center punch (it was the only brand/one I could find at Home Depot (tho to be honest I didn't look very long/hard)), which also has the "Light/Heavy" arrows/indicators on the end screw cap, and I think I'm going to be quite happy with my purchase. Although, I'm HOPING that I don't run into the issue you mentioned: that I'll probably use it just this one time, and then will forget about it. I purchased my specifically for marking some drill holes I need to put into a plastic casing for an electronics project I'm working on, do we'll see if it ever gets another use. Anyways, thanks again for your/this video - quite informative! GREAT JOB!!!
I have a couple of these myself. Not sure of the brand but it looks like the Starrett and is adjustable as well. I use them quite a bit in (80% 30ga. to 16ga.) metal fabrication. I usually continue to hold pressure (on heavier material) after the first punch, don't move it and give it a few more clicks. You are correct, tips are hard to find and I just sharpen them up on the grinder. I pull the tip out and chuck it up in the cordless and spin it while sharpening on the grinder, Easier to control for me, and a smooth point that almost looks factory when I use a fine grinding wheel. Enjoy the reviews, (probably about out of tools to show us lol) keep 'em coming.
That's an excellent idea and that's what I do as well putting round objects in a drill to grind give you excellent results. I have a few more tools to review and then I'm going to put up other reviews to I started a second channel that decided that this channel is where I wanted to do reviews just got caught in a rut doing a bunch of tools. Remember there is tons of accessories to use with tools and I have to get through those too... :)
Another great video keep up the good work you always have good content well spoken easy to understand and I'm just amazed at somebody that has is many different types of the same tools like I do can have them so organized I can't seem to ever have my tools organized they're always scattered everywhere
My tools are in in various places but I try to keep related tools together that way I'm not trying to find a pair of pliers in three places all I have to do is look in one place for all the pliers
@@CatusMaximus yeah I heard in your cotter pin tool and scratch off video that you couldn't find your cotter pins for demonstration purposes the video that made me feel a little bit better. LOL
Thanks for doing the internal breakdown. NOW I get it. I was always curious about how you seem to get something for nothing. ie. how does it automatically reset when it just expended that energy to strike the point. I'm not in dire need of one but sometimes I'm trying to punch an awkward object that wants to get away from me if I am trying to hold it and the punch steady at the same time in my left hand, leaving my right hand free to wield the hammer and right at the last instant something slips.
Who makes the red punch? I like the thinness of it. Also, i don't expect accurate positioning of the manual punches anyway, regardless of sprung or knot (not). It's really best for the accurate machining to use a DRO equipped milling machine to get to where u want to drill (x, y) and make a tiny crater using a center drill 1st. Then, bring the drill bit at the same (x, y) coordinate. The accuracy is within .0005" in both x, y coordinates. Mit the milling machine head adjusted in a perfect perpendicularity w the table, the drill will nut (not) wander. So, dat (that) said, everyone must go buy this 2 ton, 3HP milling machine + DRO accessory installed in ur garage. Or if u don't wannnnna change tool bits constantly, or crank the X, Y, Z axis wheels, get a CNC Milling machine! Keep the garage doors shut so ur Wifee won't c it coming home from WallMate instead of BloomingTale's. Don't forget datto she needs to keep up w Jane-Sees as u trying to keep up w Joe-Sees. Back to the manual punch. Yes, i have datto General H/W brand adjustable punch. And yes, it bends brass sheet strips and the hole is too tiny and nut deep enough to keep even my drill press bit to wander off the dimple. Thinking about the comment on why the Star-it has the sleeve, perhaps, make the hinge hole press down onto the thin brass sheet as a guide so the sheet won't bend. Or drill a bunch of diff. hole sizes onto a 1/4"T plate and use datto as a guideOoo for no wander, no bending work! I won't try to grind the tip of the sprung one in-situ or out of the body. It's too tiny and brittle. Yah, the tip won't last long. if ur un-4-2-8, ur drop it w tip pointing down on concrete as i have. Trying to buy a replacement is mo expensive than the entire tool (how do the seller figure dat?). Yes, i agree, the solid punches r better and if u have a 3 Ton Lathe, no problem to dress up the point symmetrically w perhaps using a good n sharp carbide tool. i bet ur starret's entire punch is of tool steel, nut carbide. Thx 4 the video!
Actually, if u have that 1/4T drilling template, u don't need a punch. For bigger diam drill bit, all u need is just one hole in the thick template. The diam. of the template hole s/b same as ur General H/W's sleeve at the tip! After punching w the template, remove the template and drill the big hole. i suggest use step drilling for accuracy. Get a drill press regardless instd of trying to drill w a hand held one. Mit Regards
Great video I have some automatic center punch I think one of mine might be a kind of a Rosy pink color made by Blue Point found at an estate sale and I think it may have a pocket clip and I really like those automatic Center punches you are right they don't leave a big enough dent because they tend not to hit very hard and so in that case they don't get used very much but I still think you're cool if you are working with aluminum copper or brass which are very soft thin metals that would probably leave a much deeper or or bigger dent in the material your tool friend Brian Williams take care see you later
Yes indeed although I did forget to mention that you can use them repeatedly in the same spot to get a bigger Dent but if you're trying to use them on harder steals you have to use a manual Center Punch & Hammer
Fire departments use them for shattering side car Windows at accident scenes. Auto center punches will turn side Windows into a pile of glass in a second!!!!
Starrett has always been the best of the best in the machine shop. I'm shocked at the lack of quality and forethought in that center punch. An aluminum body? A retractable sleeve makes precise positioning impossible! What were they thinking?? Good grief
4:52 The automatic center punch you have there is for hinges, it's to help you locate the center of a hinge hole. You put the punch on the hole so it fits on the countersinking and then press, you have now the exact center where the screw has to be located.
I forgot to mention I use mine for broken screw extraction. I make an indention to the side of the broken screw/bolt and then use the punch at an angle to turn the screw out.
That sleeve is for centering your punch in countersunk holes, like what you find in door hinges. Good video.
Thank you for this video. I've used the Blue Point YA-900 for 23 years and it finally quit working. I watched your disassembly/reassembly video because my center punch became a one hit wonder after I had taken it apart to clean it. The concave barrel still isn't resetting like it should, but at least I know I have everything in the proper order and facing the correct direction.
i have one from the harbor freight, it works really good. i feel the tip is a little soft. this is the best center punch video i have watched. it is quick, precise, and straight to the point.
Thank you so much for the comment
Absolutely perfect! I have the Lisle and needed assembly instructions.
Dude, thank you for making this video!!! I have the red one and took it apart and couldn't get it back together!
The "red one" is the American made Lisle 30280. Lisle is closely related with automotive tools. Look up this brand and model number on Amazon. A reviewer posted a very good breakdown photo on how the parts should be assembled.
Thanks for this video!! I found it to be a great explanation of the inner workings of the spring-loaded center punches, as well as the difference between the different types of styles.
I myself purchased a Husky spring-loaded center punch (it was the only brand/one I could find at Home Depot (tho to be honest I didn't look very long/hard)), which also has the "Light/Heavy" arrows/indicators on the end screw cap, and I think I'm going to be quite happy with my purchase. Although, I'm HOPING that I don't run into the issue you mentioned: that I'll probably use it just this one time, and then will forget about it. I purchased my specifically for marking some drill holes I need to put into a plastic casing for an electronics project I'm working on, do we'll see if it ever gets another use.
Anyways, thanks again for your/this video - quite informative! GREAT JOB!!!
I have a couple of these myself. Not sure of the brand but it looks like the Starrett and is adjustable as well. I use them quite a bit in (80% 30ga. to 16ga.) metal fabrication. I usually continue to hold pressure (on heavier material) after the first punch, don't move it and give it a few more clicks.
You are correct, tips are hard to find and I just sharpen them up on the grinder. I pull the tip out and chuck it up in the cordless and spin it while sharpening on the grinder, Easier to control for me, and a smooth point that almost looks factory when I use a fine grinding wheel.
Enjoy the reviews, (probably about out of tools to show us lol) keep 'em coming.
That's an excellent idea and that's what I do as well putting round objects in a drill to grind give you excellent results. I have a few more tools to review and then I'm going to put up other reviews to I started a second channel that decided that this channel is where I wanted to do reviews just got caught in a rut doing a bunch of tools.
Remember there is tons of accessories to use with tools and I have to get through those too... :)
link to the other channel?
The larger one is for marking centre of counter sunk hinge holes...
I just got my first one today. I have had bits wander when I am drilling in wood, if I am at a slight angle, so I am going to give it a shot.
These do work much better and would because they provide much deeper holes
Another great video keep up the good work you always have good content well spoken easy to understand and I'm just amazed at somebody that has is many different types of the same tools like I do can have them so organized I can't seem to ever have my tools organized they're always scattered everywhere
My tools are in in various places but I try to keep related tools together that way I'm not trying to find a pair of pliers in three places all I have to do is look in one place for all the pliers
@@CatusMaximus yeah I heard in your cotter pin tool and scratch off video that you couldn't find your cotter pins for demonstration purposes the video that made me feel a little bit better. LOL
Thanks for doing the internal breakdown. NOW I get it. I was always curious about how you seem to get something for nothing. ie. how does it automatically reset when it just expended that energy to strike the point.
I'm not in dire need of one but sometimes I'm trying to punch an awkward object that wants to get away from me if I am trying to hold it and the punch steady at the same time in my left hand, leaving my right hand free to wield the hammer and right at the last instant something slips.
You kept one out of the scrap bin. Thanks brother!
Good video. Useful and I didn't realise they weren't that good on bard metals
Who makes the red punch? I like the thinness of it. Also, i don't expect accurate positioning
of the manual punches anyway, regardless of sprung or knot (not). It's really best for the
accurate machining to use a DRO equipped milling machine to get to where u want to
drill (x, y) and make a tiny crater using a center drill 1st. Then, bring the drill bit at the same
(x, y) coordinate. The accuracy is within .0005" in both x, y coordinates. Mit the milling machine head adjusted in a perfect perpendicularity w the table, the drill will nut (not)
wander. So, dat (that) said, everyone must go buy this 2 ton, 3HP milling machine + DRO
accessory installed in ur garage. Or if u don't wannnnna change tool bits constantly, or
crank the X, Y, Z axis wheels, get a CNC Milling machine! Keep the garage doors shut
so ur Wifee won't c it coming home from WallMate instead of BloomingTale's. Don't
forget datto she needs to keep up w Jane-Sees as u trying to keep up w Joe-Sees.
Back to the manual punch. Yes, i have datto General H/W brand adjustable punch. And yes,
it bends brass sheet strips and the hole is too tiny and nut deep enough to keep even my
drill press bit to wander off the dimple. Thinking about the comment on why the Star-it has
the sleeve, perhaps, make the hinge hole press down onto the thin brass sheet as a guide
so the sheet won't bend. Or drill a bunch of diff. hole sizes onto a 1/4"T plate and use datto
as a guideOoo for no wander, no bending work! I won't try to grind the tip of the sprung one
in-situ or out of the body. It's too tiny and brittle. Yah, the tip won't last long. if ur un-4-2-8,
ur drop it w tip pointing down on concrete as i have. Trying to buy a replacement is mo
expensive than the entire tool (how do the seller figure dat?). Yes, i agree, the solid
punches r better and if u have a 3 Ton Lathe, no problem to dress up the point symmetrically w perhaps using a good n sharp carbide tool. i bet ur starret's entire punch is of tool steel,
nut carbide.
Thx 4 the video!
Actually, if u have that 1/4T drilling template, u don't need a punch.
For bigger diam drill bit, all u need is just one hole in the thick template.
The diam. of the template hole s/b same as ur General H/W's sleeve
at the tip! After punching w the template, remove the template and
drill the big hole. i suggest use step drilling for accuracy. Get a drill
press regardless instd of trying to drill w a hand held one.
Mit Regards
More useful in the field when we don't always have a hand free for a hammer.
Great video I have some automatic center punch I think one of mine might be a kind of a Rosy pink color made by Blue Point found at an estate sale and I think it may have a pocket clip and I really like those automatic Center punches you are right they don't leave a big enough dent because they tend not to hit very hard and so in that case they don't get used very much but I still think you're cool if you are working with aluminum copper or brass which are very soft thin metals that would probably leave a much deeper or or bigger dent in the material your tool friend Brian Williams take care see you later
Yes indeed although I did forget to mention that you can use them repeatedly in the same spot to get a bigger Dent but if you're trying to use them on harder steals you have to use a manual Center Punch & Hammer
lol, catus, did you say "wala" instead of "voila"?
Great video, Thanks
Thanks great video and I like mine
Thank you for the comment
I could use one of them. Good post sir.
Get extra tips when you buy it because they're hard to find later on
Fire departments use them for shattering side car Windows at accident scenes. Auto center punches will turn side Windows into a pile of glass in a second!!!!
I seen those videos
I’m a paramedic and we carry them in our vehicles for exactly that. One POP and window-be-gone
Starrett has always been the best of the best in the machine shop. I'm shocked at the lack of quality and forethought in that center punch. An aluminum body? A retractable sleeve makes precise positioning impossible! What were they thinking?? Good grief
Yes indeed the Starrett unit is a little cheaply made but does work well and does strike hard
That starrett 819 is for punching a starter for screws when installing hinges hence the sleeve
I have a starrett 18c auto centre punch and it is a is built like a tank and hits like one too
That specific Starrett is made for wood, plastics and soft metals. Used as intended, it works perfectly.
still have a Brown & Sharpe that my father passed on to me. Works great!
Vitamin B12
Send me that US GENERAL if you not use him...
👍
Automatics are best used in wood.
Thank you they are really convenient that's why I use them on Metals but I reserve them for non-ferrous materials