Cyber Profiler, thank you! I'm trying to share my experience, hoping that it helps some people, plus they also share their experience, so we can learn from each other! People in sound quality have always been a bit secretive, i don't see a reason to do so!
I like your videos, because I just recently (few years) got into sound quality car audio and have a lot to learn. I like the information you provide, it makes it easy for me to understand. Please keep doing what you are doing with the video and the information/commentary you provide.
That's great! I always worry about whether people understand what i say or not, but then it looks like it's fine! I'll try to make a video weekly, next is gonna be a bit more detailed about this IB test!😉
Which sub will be louder, a pair of these 2x 15" AE IB15AU or 2x 15" ID IDMAX? IDMAX 15 Dual 4 Ohm: Re 3.10 Ohms .75 DC Resistance Fs 29.61 Hz I Resonant Frequency Qes Electrical "Q" Qms 1.47 Mechanical "Q" Qts .50 Total "Q" Vas 3.85 cuft (109.03 liters) Equivalent Volume Xmax 44 mm Peak Excursion Sd 934.79 cm2 Piston Area SPL 87.60 dB Sensitivity w/m BL 11.40 Tm Force Factor Pwr 1200 RMS Power
Hey peter, thanks for your informative and scientific video. I'm interested in doing 'infinite' baffle in my car, using the trunk space separated from the cabin. It's a 2012 Impala. I happen to have an 18" Dayton Pro Subwoofer (www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-pa465s-8-18-pro-subwoofer-4-vc-8-ohm--295-042) and was hoping to put it in the rear deck between the rear speakers if it will fit (Impala has a large trunk and large rear deck - it would still be a tight fit). My other option is to fold down rear seats and build a baffle between the trunk and cabin, but of course I would lose the pass through storage for transporting large items. I was aware of AE IB-HT subs for home theater, and just went to their website and saw their IB-AU series. I'm just thinking an IB10-AU would be so much easier to just fit into the rear deck and call it a day. But I'm afraid I might be lacking a whole lot of midbass tacticle impact vs the 18" Dayton Pro Sub. Wouldn't tactile impact be more important than low end extension? I'm not a 'bass head' type of listener. I'd appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.
Hi Austin, There is no reason why a 10” wouldn’t play the upperbass that well as an 18” to blend in nicely to the front-end. Most of the times larger drivers struggle to play the higher notes accurately, but i think there’s no point to worry about anything like that in this case, unless you want to mate the sub to 3” midrange, like in a home hifi setup. I would worry more about what the cabin gain is in your car and what the car does to the response, just like what i showed in this video. If you have the space to fit the 18” driver what you have, then go for it, i wouldn’t hesitate! Cone area is fundamental in IB, having much of it doesn’t mean you have to play it loud. Make sure, that the shelf is deadened as concrete, then use a min double 3/4” plywood baffle with CCF on it sandwiched against the shelf from underneath. You can also have a baffle on the top of the shelf and pull it together with the bottom one with many bolts. The more solid, the better! The cut out for the speaker doesn’t necessarily have to be as big as the cone, min 50%, 75% better. 100% is best of course. Make sure, that the surround of the speaker doesn’t hit the baffle and you should be fine. I hope it all makes sense and is helpful. Peter
This was done recently by a friend of mine with one of the AE IB15AUs in a similar shaped car like yours, quite big shelf. Please find the pics under the link: facebook.com/autohifisopron/posts/419292335154212
I just noticed your response here. For some reason it's not sending notifications. Thanks for your input. I was thinking of building a baffle similar to yours, into the trunk floor right behind the rear folding seat, only one transducer facing front. Instead of cutting the entire floor area inside the baffle, do you think I could just drill a hole pattern? How would i attach the plywood baffle and seal it? How do I weatherproof the bottom where the holes will be? Thanks again. (Can we chat on Facebook about my build?)
This is interesting Pit. I’m going to try it on my civic if you don’t mine. 😂 I have same RTA level 4 program as you. Problem is I don’t know how to use it. 😂
Thanks for all your videos. I started watching them a long time ago and the knowledge and information you provides are greatly appreciated.
Cyber Profiler, thank you! I'm trying to share my experience, hoping that it helps some people, plus they also share their experience, so we can learn from each other!
People in sound quality have always been a bit secretive, i don't see a reason to do so!
I like your videos, because I just recently (few years) got into sound quality car audio and have a lot to learn. I like the information you provide, it makes it easy for me to understand. Please keep doing what you are doing with the video and the information/commentary you provide.
That's great! I always worry about whether people understand what i say or not, but then it looks like it's fine!
I'll try to make a video weekly, next is gonna be a bit more detailed about this IB test!😉
I Love Infinite Baffle 😄 great Quality Low Frequency Bass.
Did the low frequency's come in stronger on your Fi after the break in period?
I understand infinite baffle but is that woofer exposed to the outside of the car?
Which sub will be louder, a pair of these 2x 15" AE IB15AU or 2x 15" ID IDMAX?
IDMAX 15 Dual 4 Ohm:
Re 3.10 Ohms .75 DC Resistance
Fs 29.61 Hz I Resonant Frequency
Qes Electrical "Q"
Qms 1.47 Mechanical "Q"
Qts .50 Total "Q"
Vas 3.85 cuft (109.03 liters) Equivalent Volume
Xmax 44 mm Peak Excursion
Sd 934.79 cm2 Piston Area
SPL 87.60 dB Sensitivity w/m
BL 11.40 Tm Force Factor
Pwr 1200 RMS Power
Did you make a video explaining why these subs in this configuration can't play high bass very well? I'm having trouble understanding why.
Check this video out, it may explain it better:
ua-cam.com/video/K_i9Qncqmcs/v-deo.html
Let me know after if it's any clearer. ;)
Ah someone also asked my question! Thanks!
Could you tell me what kind of foam you used for the weather filter?
Basically it’s the same type of foam, that you see on outdoor PA speakers. Transparent, yet doesn’t let the moisture go through.
Oh, ok. Thanks!
@@pssound9749 Could you show us the underside of the car and the bottom of the enclosure?
Axis you can see it at the end if this video:
ua-cam.com/video/lZGZWiYLVu0/v-deo.html
Hey peter, thanks for your informative and scientific video. I'm interested in doing 'infinite' baffle in my car, using the trunk space separated from the cabin. It's a 2012 Impala. I happen to have an 18" Dayton Pro Subwoofer (www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-pa465s-8-18-pro-subwoofer-4-vc-8-ohm--295-042) and was hoping to put it in the rear deck between the rear speakers if it will fit (Impala has a large trunk and large rear deck - it would still be a tight fit). My other option is to fold down rear seats and build a baffle between the trunk and cabin, but of course I would lose the pass through storage for transporting large items.
I was aware of AE IB-HT subs for home theater, and just went to their website and saw their IB-AU series. I'm just thinking an IB10-AU would be so much easier to just fit into the rear deck and call it a day. But I'm afraid I might be lacking a whole lot of midbass tacticle impact vs the 18" Dayton Pro Sub. Wouldn't tactile impact be more important than low end extension? I'm not a 'bass head' type of listener.
I'd appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.
Hi Austin,
There is no reason why a 10” wouldn’t play the upperbass that well as an 18” to blend in nicely to the front-end. Most of the times larger drivers struggle to play the higher notes accurately, but i think there’s no point to worry about anything like that in this case, unless you want to mate the sub to 3” midrange, like in a home hifi setup.
I would worry more about what the cabin gain is in your car and what the car does to the response, just like what i showed in this video.
If you have the space to fit the 18” driver what you have, then go for it, i wouldn’t hesitate! Cone area is fundamental in IB, having much of it doesn’t mean you have to play it loud.
Make sure, that the shelf is deadened as concrete, then use a min double 3/4” plywood baffle with CCF on it sandwiched against the shelf from underneath. You can also have a baffle on the top of the shelf and pull it together with the bottom one with many bolts. The more solid, the better!
The cut out for the speaker doesn’t necessarily have to be as big as the cone, min 50%, 75% better. 100% is best of course. Make sure, that the surround of the speaker doesn’t hit the baffle and you should be fine.
I hope it all makes sense and is helpful.
Peter
This was done recently by a friend of mine with one of the AE IB15AUs in a similar shaped car like yours, quite big shelf. Please find the pics under the link:
facebook.com/autohifisopron/posts/419292335154212
I just noticed your response here. For some reason it's not sending notifications. Thanks for your input. I was thinking of building a baffle similar to yours, into the trunk floor right behind the rear folding seat, only one transducer facing front. Instead of cutting the entire floor area inside the baffle, do you think I could just drill a hole pattern? How would i attach the plywood baffle and seal it? How do I weatherproof the bottom where the holes will be? Thanks again. (Can we chat on Facebook about my build?)
This is interesting Pit.
I’m going to try it on my civic if you don’t mine. 😂
I have same RTA level 4 program as you. Problem is I don’t know how to use it. 😂
RAM-NVX15 Larry F
I really don’t mind, just chop it up! 🤘💪😃
Jammer!