Thanks for making this video. I’ve been collecting agates and rocks for a while now my collection is getting quite large so it’s time to start cutting. Wasn’t really sure what kind of saw to get this video gave me some good ideas.
What is the table top saw you use called, I can't find one like yours. I also wanted to know if the diamond bit blade can cut Chrysoberyl without difficulty?
Jason, thanks so much, this was awesome! After your video last week I was planning to check saw prices/availability locally... now I can actually do that better informed. Sorry to hear winter finally hit (we're in the middle of a nasty-cold streak... -30&wind)!
@@RockhoundingLife Hey, I wanted to confirm, did you say this saw would accept a larger/10" blade? I've checked the pricing and the 10" saw from Ridgid is more than double the price of the 7" saw. That's a steep difference. Thanks again!
@@grantfahlman1815 It will NOT except a 10" blade. They are separate saws and the blade size is not interchangeable. Yeah the 10" saw is much more expensive, which is why i bought the 7" instead.
I just found this video, i liked what i saw so i subscribed, i have a kobalt 10 inch tile saw very similar to yours, i bought my saw used with parts missing, mainly the slide table and water pump, one of the first rocks i cut was Quartzite and had sparks and glowing when it was being cut, so i was`nt totally sure why, i suspected my water pump was`nt big enough, but thanks to you now i know thanks.
Thanks for the sub! We upgraded since to a Hi-Tech diamond 10" slab saw. Great little saw for cutting small to medium size rocks. But the conventional tile saw did a great job for us as well. I still have it as a back up.
Any ideas on how to get a guide tray for this saw or make one I'm going to use it to cut rock's like your doing got the saw at a pawn shop for 50 dollar's like new but no guide tray
Oh you’re near bass river too?! Nice; Truro area here! Just started rock carving myself. Any suggestions on where to find good stuff?! Was thinking of visiting the maitland caves and seeing if I can get a big chunk of stalactite or stalagmite!
Yeah I needed to buy a tile saw to cut some tile during my basement reno so I went a bit up in price because I new I could use it to cut rocks when I was done. I wanted to get the 10" but couldn't justify the price at the time.
Nice video, thank you. Couple questions for you, if you dont mind. If you had that same saw at a model w/ 10" blade, can it cut larger rocks then the 3 in height of the 7" saw you have here? I see channels that have those table saws you showed below your big guy and for larger rocks they spin the rock or flip over for the finishing cut. Is that ok to do and is it easy to do? I mostly want to cut my finds of jasper, pet wood, chalcedony, serpentine and obsidian; most of them are small to medium, but do have some larger ones to cut. I saw the one you use in this video, not sure if it was the same model, but was a 7" for about $320 new on home depot. Is that a decent price? This is all new for me and not sure about a smaller guy like yours underneath for the 80-100 range or just to get the big boy be able to do more with it. I also noticed amps, horsepower and rpms too. The lower guys are like 4 amps, just under 1 horse and 3600 rpms, while the others go up to 6/9 amps, 1-2 horse and almost 9000 rpms. Can those smaller ranges cut rocks easy or will they struggle? Thanks for any info before I buy soon, Chris
@@nanasloves Hello. I bought the (Harbor Freight) Diamondback 10 inch Bridge Saw with a 2 yr extended warranty for $585 and thats with tax included. I wanted to be able to cut material at least 3 inch thick or tall and still cut small things as well. Overall I like it, but it has some drawbacks to it. It came with a blade for cutting up to about 5-6 on the hardness scale and struggles to get through anything beyond that. I did by a "agate kutter" blade ($135) online but, that didnt turn out any better then the $40 blade that came with my saw. The main issue with the type of saw I have, is since the blade comes down from the top, like in this guys video above; the blade tends to "pull" down hard at times. This can cause your piece to "slant" or "warp" if you loose grip or a piece chips or crumbles; this is because it has a groove in it for the saw blade to pass through. I also have a Hi-Tech flat lap/polisher and so trying to get a warp or slant out is near impossible on ones that are affected a bit more. You would need a machine that spins round like a cabbing machine and good skills to remove those warps and slants. On softer pieces I can get them out if they are at the edge of the piece, by running them along the edge of the saw or flat lap. I had both the saw and lap for a year now this November and I like them both overall and for reasons I will list below. I actually just cuts some pieces a few days ago and most were soft, but I got frustrated cutting some chalcedony about 1/2 thick due to the time it takes to cut. The cut came out nice on the one side and polished nice, but the time it takes (10-20 minutes) to do each side is not worth it right now. I ruined a few pieces that were larger and longer cuts when I first bought the saw and couldnt get the warps out, so I have them aside until I can figure something out or find a pro who can fix them and cut the rest. I have cut some "messed up" ones down smaller and ones that didnt polish that great; and threw them in my tumblers. They came out great, not polished mirrored like on the lap; but really nice still and held the "flatness" too. I couldnt afford the Hi-tech 10 in, which is about $800 plus tx and extend warranty would make it over $1,000. It would not leave slants or warps due to the fact it doesnt have the blade mounted up top and no open groove either; and only would do that if you had to "roll" the piece around to get through it. That would be on how good or not you are at cutting and if their blade is really good quality. I think their lap is good for the $500, but its mostly hard resin-plastic and not metal like the more expensive ones (Covington, etc $800-1,000 and more). So their saws are also plastic bases and turned me off as did their price, but they may be really good. So here is my reasons overall I bought my saw. 1. Price and good reviews and 2 yr warranty. Came in at least $200-300 then top brands like "Rigid, Dewalt, etc". 2. Bought it in store in my town and so if any issues I could just return it for a new one. 3. Its a wet tile saw, saw I could use it for cutting tiles and paver bricks if I need to do so. 4. Since its a wet tile saw, it has a easy resale value for commercial business and homeowners if I was to sell it. 5. It has wheels on the motor side and handle on the front to easily life and wheel around. I did not buy the stand for it, another $55 and so far no issue without it. I live in a second floor apt and use it in my bathroom on the 20 amp outlet, the saw is 15 amps and 4000 rpm. I bought an extra small fountain pump to put into the saws tub, to drain the dirty water; and I use the pump it came with to run clean water from a 5 gallon bucket to the saw blade. This is the best way to go. So you know, the Hi-Tech and other true "rock cutting" saws are slower rpm's, usually around 1700-2400 rpm; rotations per minute. Not sure about their blades and what type of diamond coating they have, but it seems very slow rpms to cut hard rocks and crystals. So mostly I love the saw and can do the large rocks and even very small pieces. I even cut triangles, pillars and other shapes with ease on softer pieces, both large and very small. Most people use a trim saw-table top to cut such small intricate shapes; I was able to do it on my saw. If I could find a great blade, then it would be super awesome saw, because most of the warps or slants are from me needing to "roll" the piece to get through easier and faster; only to ruin them for now. You will still get a few that will have that due to the power of the saw blade coming downwards onto your piece and that open groove. I looked and talked to blade sellers and they all said "get the agate kutter blade." Didnt work for me and barely saw a difference from the blade it came with. I shuffle back and forth with them as I need them. I will still look for a better blade in continuous rim form soon. Still, very happy with the saw, very powerful indeed and I could see it lasting very long, even though its made for easy cutting pavers and tile. One last thing, my blades are thin, .05 and .06 I think and so they have a slight "flex" when spinning and cutting, which most likely also gives a warp to the equation. Like everyone, if I/we had the money and space, I would go commercial grade large cutting ($1500-3000) and then a cheaper 7 inch table top saw with blade from the bottom ($150-300) for doing the small intricate cuts and shapes. So I gave as much details and help I could think of from my year with it and hope it helps you decide. Oh, I cut a ton of things too, I used it at least 4-5 times in a year and cut at least 10-20 pieces each time; and those pieces got cut down as many times as well. So maybe about 200 cuts or more so far and some heavy duty. I will leave a video below to show you some good pieces to help you decide. ~Chris My camera doesnt focus that well, but it will give you an idea. ua-cam.com/video/9bgtnVXtW1o/v-deo.html
@@nanasloves I made a video to help others and to send to Hi Tech company to show the girl there, my issues when cutting harder rocks. She is going to call me tomorrow to let me know some things that may help. The video is below so you can see some of my very first cut rocks that have the warps and slants, as well as some that do not. Hope it helps you help. ua-cam.com/video/-6oiKBq6mvA/v-deo.html
Great video, I've been looking for a tile saw just not sure how big to go, so this answered some of my questions. You said something about a ten inch blade will that saw take a ten inch blade? Also what about adding a second pump to get more water to the blade or a bigger pump. Keep up the great videos and God bless you and your family.
Thanks! This saw is sold as either a 7" saw or a 10" saw. You can't put a 10" blade on this saw. Adding a second pump would be totally doable. You wouldn't be able to pipe it directly to the blade but as long as the water stream is dousing the blade then it should be ok.
Excellent Video.. I have the exact same tile saw and was wondering what blades (make / Type?) you have found that seem to work the best with this saw for cutting different types of rocks? Also, I notice some tile saw cutters say something about dressing the blade.. Do you dress the blades at all? Thanks, from Alberta.
I buy two types of blades. Both are made by RIGID as well, and both are rated for granite and porcelain. I use a notched blade for bigger/harder rocks (big seam agates) and i uses a smooth blade for softer rocks. The notched blade is very aggressive and can cause unwanted saw marks when polishing. As far as "dressing" the blade I assume that means sharpening before every use. I've also heard the term of "activating the diamonds" on the blade. I do this by cutting into a grinding stone a couple of times before every use. I've also seen people use red brick to do this. I've noticed that when I do this consistently I get much longer life out of the blade. Hope that helps!
@@RockhoundingLife Hey that helps a TON! Thanks for that... I'll be heading out tomorrow and will be picking up at least one of each AND a red brick and a sharpening stone to dress those blades. There aren't a lot of really cool rocks out here like there are out on the East Coast where you are, but I definitely run into some that I would like to cut and my blade (the one that came with the saw) dulled VERY quickly. Having said that and not to state the obvious, there are Fossils EVERYWHERE out West but not too many people are cutting 'through them' (maybe trimming) with saws that I can think of... :) Thanks again, much appreciated..
If you are cutting agates that big I would go with a minimum 18" saw. Would recomemd Highland Park. Great quality, stock in the USA and plenty of parts availibility.
You can buy diamond blades for it so you can cut just about any stone as long as it is no bigger than 3" round. Anything bigger than that and it gets tricky to cut.
I’m curious... I understand this saw is quite loud, but I wonder if you have any thoughts on whether it could be operated in the basement of an apartment building? I’m happy to use hearing protection, but would the sound carry badly enough that it would super disturb my neighbor on the first floor? Or by that distance away would it feel more like normal city noise? (Obviously, I wouldn’t use it for hours at a time). I’ve got a wonderful 6” trim saw that I feel totally comfortable using in my apartment, but it’s not the most powerful, and I feel like a tile saw could easily cut through some of the material that tends to bog down my little trim saw. But I definitely don’t want to be a terrible neighbor!
This saw is super loud. But if the basement in your apartment building is a parking garage style then you could probably get away with using it there and not have your neighbors hear it.
@@RockhoundingLife sadly, my building’s basement is NYC apartment building style, just the below ground version of the same footprint. So probably I should avoid super noisy tile saws, no matter how sexy they are 😕... but I’ve got so many rocks waiting! It’s a conundrum I’m sure every rock lover knows only too well!
You can also put up soundproofing\absorption to help with sound. I do traveling stone working and have learned many ways to keep my tools and such as quiet as possible.
I dream of getting tools like this one day. In the meantime I'm taking notes. Great tutorial!
Thanks! Make your dreams a reality!
Wow! Exact same saw I got for Christmas, super informative I love your videos, I’m slabbing rocks like a pro now, thanks for all your help!
My pleasure anytime!!
No rocks were harmed in the making of this video..😊
Very informative video for us new comers.
Glad it was helpful!
What amazing timing. I’m getting a tile saw today. I love your channel thank you so much.
Thanks!! Congrats on getting a tile saw. You'll have lots of fun!
Thanks for making this video. I’ve been collecting agates and rocks for a while now my collection is getting quite large so it’s time to start cutting. Wasn’t really sure what kind of saw to get this video gave me some good ideas.
That is awesome!
Very informative and helpful!! Much appreciated! Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Solid tutorial man, can't wait to see it in action once again!
Thanks! It's going to get heavy use in the next couple of weeks. We just got dumped on with snow so no rockhounding for awhile i'm afraid.😢
Good info. Can you talk
About top saw vs table saw for cutting rocks?
I was like what's a "sea maggot?" Lmao.
Like misheard lyrics lol
That's what I kept hearing also
I read this comment, then heard him say sea maggots over and over. I'm not sure even what he is saying there... Seam agate?
What is the table top saw you use called, I can't find one like yours. I also wanted to know if the diamond bit blade can cut Chrysoberyl without difficulty?
It's a Rigid top cut 7" wet tile saw. I purchased mine at home depot
I have this saw and its freaking amazing! Thanks for the video
It's a great saw! Perfect for someone starting out cutting rocks.
Good information to know!
Do you have a link showing you cutting rocks on this 7 inch wet saw.
Thanks for sharing!
Just a like back from you? No answer?
Jason, thanks so much, this was awesome! After your video last week I was planning to check saw prices/availability locally... now I can actually do that better informed. Sorry to hear winter finally hit (we're in the middle of a nasty-cold streak... -30&wind)!
Glad it was of help! -30!! Geez, stay warm!!
@@RockhoundingLife Hey, I wanted to confirm, did you say this saw would accept a larger/10" blade? I've checked the pricing and the 10" saw from Ridgid is more than double the price of the 7" saw. That's a steep difference. Thanks again!
@@grantfahlman1815 It will NOT except a 10" blade. They are separate saws and the blade size is not interchangeable. Yeah the 10" saw is much more expensive, which is why i bought the 7" instead.
I just found this video, i liked what i saw so i subscribed, i have a kobalt 10 inch tile saw very similar to yours, i bought my saw used with parts missing, mainly the slide table and water pump, one of the first rocks i cut was Quartzite and had sparks and glowing when it was being cut, so i was`nt totally sure why, i suspected my water pump was`nt big enough, but thanks to you now i know thanks.
Thanks for the sub! We upgraded since to a Hi-Tech diamond 10" slab saw. Great little saw for cutting small to medium size rocks. But the conventional tile saw did a great job for us as well. I still have it as a back up.
Great tutorial!
Thank you! Cheers!
Excellent video.
Thank you very much!
Cool video, good information. Helpful tips.
Glad you found it helpful!
Any ideas on how to get a guide tray for this saw or make one I'm going to use it to cut rock's like your doing got the saw at a pawn shop for 50 dollar's like new but no guide tray
I think your best bet would be online. Maybe ebay. You could try to gear something up homemade?
Oh you’re near bass river too?! Nice; Truro area here! Just started rock carving myself. Any suggestions on where to find good stuff?! Was thinking of visiting the maitland caves and seeing if I can get a big chunk of stalactite or stalagmite!
I'm terrible at rock carving. Not sure what material in NS would be best for it.
Great video man, this was the saw I was wanting to get but it was out of my price range at the time. I still plan on getting one later this year.
Yeah I needed to buy a tile saw to cut some tile during my basement reno so I went a bit up in price because I new I could use it to cut rocks when I was done. I wanted to get the 10" but couldn't justify the price at the time.
Nice video, thank you. Couple questions for you, if you dont mind. If you had that same saw at a model w/ 10" blade, can it cut larger rocks then the 3 in height of the 7" saw you have here? I see channels that have those table saws you showed below your big guy and for larger rocks they spin the rock or flip over for the finishing cut. Is that ok to do and is it easy to do? I mostly want to cut my finds of jasper, pet wood, chalcedony, serpentine and obsidian; most of them are small to medium, but do have some larger ones to cut. I saw the one you use in this video, not sure if it was the same model, but was a 7" for about $320 new on home depot. Is that a decent price? This is all new for me and not sure about a smaller guy like yours underneath for the 80-100 range or just to get the big boy be able to do more with it. I also noticed amps, horsepower and rpms too. The lower guys are like 4 amps, just under 1 horse and 3600 rpms, while the others go up to 6/9 amps, 1-2 horse and almost 9000 rpms. Can those smaller ranges cut rocks easy or will they struggle? Thanks for any info before I buy soon, Chris
What did you end up buying and do you like it?
@@nanasloves Hello. I bought the (Harbor Freight) Diamondback 10 inch Bridge Saw with a 2 yr extended warranty for $585 and thats with tax included. I wanted to be able to cut material at least 3 inch thick or tall and still cut small things as well. Overall I like it, but it has some drawbacks to it. It came with a blade for cutting up to about 5-6 on the hardness scale and struggles to get through anything beyond that. I did by a "agate kutter" blade ($135) online but, that didnt turn out any better then the $40 blade that came with my saw. The main issue with the type of saw I have, is since the blade comes down from the top, like in this guys video above; the blade tends to "pull" down hard at times. This can cause your piece to "slant" or "warp" if you loose grip or a piece chips or crumbles; this is because it has a groove in it for the saw blade to pass through. I also have a Hi-Tech flat lap/polisher and so trying to get a warp or slant out is near impossible on ones that are affected a bit more. You would need a machine that spins round like a cabbing machine and good skills to remove those warps and slants. On softer pieces I can get them out if they are at the edge of the piece, by running them along the edge of the saw or flat lap.
I had both the saw and lap for a year now this November and I like them both overall and for reasons I will list below. I actually just cuts some pieces a few days ago and most were soft, but I got frustrated cutting some chalcedony about 1/2 thick due to the time it takes to cut. The cut came out nice on the one side and polished nice, but the time it takes (10-20 minutes) to do each side is not worth it right now. I ruined a few pieces that were larger and longer cuts when I first bought the saw and couldnt get the warps out, so I have them aside until I can figure something out or find a pro who can fix them and cut the rest. I have cut some "messed up" ones down smaller and ones that didnt polish that great; and threw them in my tumblers. They came out great, not polished mirrored like on the lap; but really nice still and held the "flatness" too. I couldnt afford the Hi-tech 10 in, which is about $800 plus tx and extend warranty would make it over $1,000. It would not leave slants or warps due to the fact it doesnt have the blade mounted up top and no open groove either; and only would do that if you had to "roll" the piece around to get through it. That would be on how good or not you are at cutting and if their blade is really good quality. I think their lap is good for the $500, but its mostly hard resin-plastic and not metal like the more expensive ones (Covington, etc $800-1,000 and more). So their saws are also plastic bases and turned me off as did their price, but they may be really good.
So here is my reasons overall I bought my saw.
1. Price and good reviews and 2 yr warranty. Came in at least $200-300 then top brands like "Rigid, Dewalt, etc".
2. Bought it in store in my town and so if any issues I could just return it for a new one.
3. Its a wet tile saw, saw I could use it for cutting tiles and paver bricks if I need to do so.
4. Since its a wet tile saw, it has a easy resale value for commercial business and homeowners if I was to sell it.
5. It has wheels on the motor side and handle on the front to easily life and wheel around.
I did not buy the stand for it, another $55 and so far no issue without it. I live in a second floor apt and use it in my bathroom on the 20 amp outlet, the saw is 15 amps and 4000 rpm. I bought an extra small fountain pump to put into the saws tub, to drain the dirty water; and I use the pump it came with to run clean water from a 5 gallon bucket to the saw blade. This is the best way to go. So you know, the Hi-Tech and other true "rock cutting" saws are slower rpm's, usually around 1700-2400 rpm; rotations per minute. Not sure about their blades and what type of diamond coating they have, but it seems very slow rpms to cut hard rocks and crystals. So mostly I love the saw and can do the large rocks and even very small pieces. I even cut triangles, pillars and other shapes with ease on softer pieces, both large and very small. Most people use a trim saw-table top to cut such small intricate shapes; I was able to do it on my saw. If I could find a great blade, then it would be super awesome saw, because most of the warps or slants are from me needing to "roll" the piece to get through easier and faster; only to ruin them for now. You will still get a few that will have that due to the power of the saw blade coming downwards onto your piece and that open groove. I looked and talked to blade sellers and they all said "get the agate kutter blade." Didnt work for me and barely saw a difference from the blade it came with. I shuffle back and forth with them as I need them. I will still look for a better blade in continuous rim form soon. Still, very happy with the saw, very powerful indeed and I could see it lasting very long, even though its made for easy cutting pavers and tile. One last thing, my blades are thin, .05 and .06 I think and so they have a slight "flex" when spinning and cutting, which most likely also gives a warp to the equation. Like everyone, if I/we had the money and space, I would go commercial grade large cutting ($1500-3000) and then a cheaper 7 inch table top saw with blade from the bottom ($150-300) for doing the small intricate cuts and shapes. So I gave as much details and help I could think of from my year with it and hope it helps you decide. Oh, I cut a ton of things too, I used it at least 4-5 times in a year and cut at least 10-20 pieces each time; and those pieces got cut down as many times as well. So maybe about 200 cuts or more so far and some heavy duty. I will leave a video below to show you some good pieces to help you decide. ~Chris
My camera doesnt focus that well, but it will give you an idea.
ua-cam.com/video/9bgtnVXtW1o/v-deo.html
@@ChristopherSchiffermiller great information I would not have thought of! Thank you!
@@nanasloves You are welcome and I am glad it helps you make a choice and gives you some ideas.
@@nanasloves I made a video to help others and to send to Hi Tech company to show the girl there, my issues when cutting harder rocks. She is going to call me tomorrow to let me know some things that may help. The video is below so you can see some of my very first cut rocks that have the warps and slants, as well as some that do not. Hope it helps you help.
ua-cam.com/video/-6oiKBq6mvA/v-deo.html
can you use those cutting rocks as jewelry? and what is a good rocks?
Yes we have used these rocks to make jewelry
@@RockhoundingLife do you have some rocks for sale?
Great video, I've been looking for a tile saw just not sure how big to go, so this answered some of my questions. You said something about a ten inch blade will that saw take a ten inch blade? Also what about adding a second pump to get more water to the blade or a bigger pump. Keep up the great videos and God bless you and your family.
Thanks! This saw is sold as either a 7" saw or a 10" saw. You can't put a 10" blade on this saw. Adding a second pump would be totally doable. You wouldn't be able to pipe it directly to the blade but as long as the water stream is dousing the blade then it should be ok.
Great video! Thanks.
Glad you liked it!
Excellent Video.. I have the exact same tile saw and was wondering what blades (make / Type?) you have found that seem to work the best with this saw for cutting different types of rocks? Also, I notice some tile saw cutters say something about dressing the blade.. Do you dress the blades at all? Thanks, from Alberta.
I buy two types of blades. Both are made by RIGID as well, and both are rated for granite and porcelain. I use a notched blade for bigger/harder rocks (big seam agates) and i uses a smooth blade for softer rocks. The notched blade is very aggressive and can cause unwanted saw marks when polishing. As far as "dressing" the blade I assume that means sharpening before every use. I've also heard the term of "activating the diamonds" on the blade. I do this by cutting into a grinding stone a couple of times before every use. I've also seen people use red brick to do this. I've noticed that when I do this consistently I get much longer life out of the blade.
Hope that helps!
@@RockhoundingLife
Hey that helps a TON! Thanks for that... I'll be heading out tomorrow and will be picking up at least one of each AND a red brick and a sharpening stone to dress those blades.
There aren't a lot of really cool rocks out here like there are out on the East Coast where you are, but I definitely run into some that I would like to cut and my blade (the one that came with the saw) dulled VERY quickly. Having said that and not to state the obvious, there are Fossils EVERYWHERE out West but not too many people are cutting 'through them' (maybe trimming) with saws that I can think of... :)
Thanks again, much appreciated..
@@floppychicken68 No problem. Glad to be of help! It really pays to run your blade through the grinding stone or brick before every use.
What blade are you using? I'm not happy with the DeWalt tile blade in using. I have a 10 in tile saw.
Its just a rigid 7" blade rated for Granite and Porcelain
I have a 7" round Kentucky agate I want to cut, how to? What do I buy? Money no problem, want to cut many geodes for my crush,as well
If you are cutting agates that big I would go with a minimum 18" saw. Would recomemd Highland Park. Great quality, stock in the USA and plenty of parts availibility.
Can you put a flat lap blade on that and use the sige in a pinch??😊
I'm not sure but interesting idea.
Cut the Rock!
Can you cut obsidian with this?, if not what saw would you recomend? Im a new member Thank you!!!
Yes for sure!!! There is a different blade they sell for that type of material.
Can you cut jasper with it what stones can it cut safely
You can buy diamond blades for it so you can cut just about any stone as long as it is no bigger than 3" round. Anything bigger than that and it gets tricky to cut.
I'm assuming if the table saw has the capacity to use a 10" blade, it could also be fitted with a lesser sized blade as well?
It's not recommended to change saw blade sizes. You should use 10" blades on 10" saws.
@@RockhoundingLife Thanks.
Nice video, but I want that seam agate 🤣
I’m curious... I understand this saw is quite loud, but I wonder if you have any thoughts on whether it could be operated in the basement of an apartment building? I’m happy to use hearing protection, but would the sound carry badly enough that it would super disturb my neighbor on the first floor? Or by that distance away would it feel more like normal city noise? (Obviously, I wouldn’t use it for hours at a time). I’ve got a wonderful 6” trim saw that I feel totally comfortable using in my apartment, but it’s not the most powerful, and I feel like a tile saw could easily cut through some of the material that tends to bog down my little trim saw. But I definitely don’t want to be a terrible neighbor!
This saw is super loud. But if the basement in your apartment building is a parking garage style then you could probably get away with using it there and not have your neighbors hear it.
@@RockhoundingLife sadly, my building’s basement is NYC apartment building style, just the below ground version of the same footprint. So probably I should avoid super noisy tile saws, no matter how sexy they are 😕... but I’ve got so many rocks waiting! It’s a conundrum I’m sure every rock lover knows only too well!
@@stellabelikiewicz1523 you could use it on a Saturday and everyone would think its normal construction?
@@RockhoundingLife in NYC that’s very possible! Or I could cultivate a friend with an actual house!
You can also put up soundproofing\absorption to help with sound. I do traveling stone working and have learned many ways to keep my tools and such as quiet as possible.
Could you cut Quartz with this saw
yes 100%
Can you cut quartze with this saw?
Yes
I've been collecting rocks for years searching how to cut them
my daughter bought me a wet saw for Christmas, though it might not be the right one to cut my rocks
There are many types and sizes out there. You can probably make it work. What did she get you?
ill be getting a saw later in year when gardens all planted and show is done... I have a tile saw also but smaller than yours so it sucks.. ya
If you can swing it you should get a 10" top cut tile saw. Mine's a 7". Wish it was a 10"
What HP is this?
Can you tell me what kind of blade you would use to cut rocks with a tile saw.
The blade on this tiles saw is a 7" segmented blade rated for granite and porcelain.
What are sea maggots?
Ses maggots are probably some sort of larvi that live in the ocean....if i had to guess
Email sent with info about my saw
Got it!! Sent a reply.
Why "sea MAGGOTS"? That's sick.
What did Sea Maggots ever do to anyone?
Seam AGATE LOL!
Sea-maggots, seam agates
Tomato, toe-motto🤣😂
can i get an OWA OWA
😆👍
How many times you gonna say "Sea Maggot"
They're not rocks, they are sea maggots.
Cut rock not talk about it!
Sorry but that's not what the channel is about. It's visual and informative so talking is going to happen. You can always mute it!