Great tool, I bought the same one only 100 euro, and I used it to take out a 13pin deflection ic from a monitor chassis and this tool made it really easy! Thanks for the great tutorial!
I have the same one bought a few months ago. Never tried it because i am like if i start things i want to get further with it. Have to learn the basics of electronics and now is the right time. I am up to recap my good old Sansui amplifier. Bought much more tools like a scope, tone generator and a 35kg variac/isolation transformer. As i am on budget it took me some time to collect all the stuff i think i need for doing work on electronics.
I might be wrong, but if there is something stuck inside preventing you from cleaning the channel good idea would be to increase temperature to the max
@@mothunderz Thanks, and learnt also something new (that up, down, left, right technique). Without notice, I may say you also have fine English language skills.
@@mothunderz As like, is very important to know the tool, throughole desoldering station are not magical, sometimes you need apply some help, like low melting solder, more solder, flux and more. I have many desoldering stations, I have 2 Hakko inclusive. What I can tell you, all clogged sometimes. Finally is very important heat the solder and press the botton went the solder is melting. Best Regards.
Dear Ricardo, thanks for your comments. Flux and low melting solder can indeed help out and also agreed that one should take care the solder is melted before activating the pump.
What I have found, is that setting the temperature too high ie, at 400 degrees, and ..leaving it there, tends to, ..cause, more frequent clogging, of the inlet tube. I prefer instead, to set the temperature down at 300 degrees which seems to work OK for Desoldering most small components and also seems to result in less, clogging, and then, only setting the temperature higher, ..if, and when, actually needed, ie, when trying to desolder a LARGE thermal-mass-component, or, components mounted upon a large thermal-mass-area, of the PCB’s copper lands, and then ..only leaving it at that higher temperature, for as long, as actually needed to do that particular task. I also regularly add a small ‘ball’ of ‘loose’, steel wool, into the solder collecting Tube, which also improves the life-span, of the filter, at the rear of the collection Tube, by stopping the majority, of the molten solder, ..at the steel wool, as it transits through the Tube. Also, adding a small dab, of liquid resin flux, with a small paint brush, onto a ‘dry’ looking solder joint, before trying to desolder it, helps the solder to then liquify and mobilise better, when the hot, gun tip is applied to it. Basically does the same thing, as Re-Soldering the joint, with a soldering iron, first, before trying to desolder it with the gun. 😉👍
Thank you very much for these constructive comments! Yes, agreed that high temps are only really needed for objects with large mass. I have not tried applying resin flux yet, will give that a go with my next desoldering session 👍
Yes, the desoldering gun has a hole on its tip. However, when you buy the gun, typically the hole will be filled with solder. By heating it to its operating temp the solder melts and thereby the hole opens up. The operating temp I use is around 380 to 420C. For cleaning it helps to heat it up to the max temperature. Happy desoldering :-)
@@mothunderz Thankyou for your reply.When did desoldering gun existed,am only aware of it currently.Back then in 80",90' and year 2000 never heard of it.I was studying electrical and electronics,then working in factory only got air heater to removed ic chips,whereas the operators use soldering iron to remove other components on cct board.
@@mothunderz Yes I already first time using desoldering gun and noticed too the solder melts left a hole in the nozzle.However cant removed the leftover solder on the rectifier leg on the body component side.Able to desolder the below leg part with ease.
@@mothunderz thank you..i was going to mail them saying the tip was all sealed and do i have to drill it to get the hole?😁 In fact i came here to look at that tip
You got me there, I totally messed up that one 😂. I am Dutch and a spring in Dutch is "Veer", so some way or the other my brain translated this into feather. Well, at least you understood what I was trying to say...
Great tool, I bought the same one only 100 euro, and I used it to take out a 13pin deflection ic from a monitor chassis and this tool made it really easy! Thanks for the great tutorial!
Thank you very much for your feedback! Glad it worked out for your project.
Simple, straightforward, useful video. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you. I bought a similar unit in Australia, and its instructions were terrible. Your instructions are great!
Glad it helped and thank you for your feedback!
I have the same one bought a few months ago. Never tried it because i am like if i start things i want to get further with it. Have to learn the basics of electronics and now is the right time. I am up to recap my good old Sansui amplifier. Bought much more tools like a scope, tone generator and a 35kg variac/isolation transformer. As i am on budget it took me some time to collect all the stuff i think i need for doing work on electronics.
Sounds like a fun project, thanks for sharing!
to unclog the barrel , set the temp to maximum using the pin.It's easy.
Thank you for your comment, yes, max temp helps!
I might be wrong, but if there is something stuck inside preventing you from cleaning the channel good idea would be to increase temperature to the max
Yes, good point. It definitely helps to increase the temperature if something is really stuck. Thanks for your comment :-)
Why is it that the most interesting flicks have the less higher likes?
your like is well appreciated :-)
Nice video, thanks for posting it.
Glad you enjoyed it
@@mothunderz Thanks, and learnt also something new (that up, down, left, right technique). Without notice, I may say you also have fine English language skills.
Thank you :-)
@@mothunderz As like, is very important to know the tool, throughole desoldering station are not magical, sometimes you need apply some help, like low melting solder, more solder, flux and more.
I have many desoldering stations, I have 2 Hakko inclusive.
What I can tell you, all clogged sometimes.
Finally is very important heat the solder and press the botton went the solder is melting.
Best Regards.
Dear Ricardo, thanks for your comments. Flux and low melting solder can indeed help out and also agreed that one should take care the solder is melted before activating the pump.
What I have found, is that setting the temperature too high ie, at 400 degrees, and ..leaving it there, tends to, ..cause, more frequent clogging, of the inlet tube. I prefer instead, to set the temperature down at 300 degrees which seems to work OK for Desoldering most small components and also seems to result in less, clogging, and then, only setting the temperature higher, ..if, and when, actually needed, ie, when trying to desolder a LARGE thermal-mass-component, or, components mounted upon a large thermal-mass-area, of the PCB’s copper lands, and then ..only leaving it at that higher temperature, for as long, as actually needed to do that particular task. I also regularly add a small ‘ball’ of ‘loose’, steel wool, into the solder collecting Tube, which also improves the life-span, of the filter, at the rear of the collection Tube, by stopping the majority, of the molten solder, ..at the steel wool, as it transits through the Tube. Also, adding a small dab, of liquid resin flux, with a small paint brush, onto a ‘dry’ looking solder joint, before trying to desolder it, helps the solder to then liquify and mobilise better, when the hot, gun tip is applied to it. Basically does the same thing, as Re-Soldering the joint, with a soldering iron, first, before trying to desolder it with the gun. 😉👍
Thank you very much for these constructive comments! Yes, agreed that high temps are only really needed for objects with large mass. I have not tried applying resin flux yet, will give that a go with my next desoldering session 👍
Is the desoldering gun got hole on its tip?What temp. use?
Yes, the desoldering gun has a hole on its tip. However, when you buy the gun, typically the hole will be filled with solder. By heating it to its operating temp the solder melts and thereby the hole opens up. The operating temp I use is around 380 to 420C. For cleaning it helps to heat it up to the max temperature. Happy desoldering :-)
@@mothunderz Thankyou for your reply.When did desoldering gun existed,am only aware of it currently.Back then in 80",90' and year 2000
never heard of it.I was studying electrical and electronics,then working in factory only got air heater to removed ic chips,whereas the operators use soldering iron to remove other components on cct board.
@@mothunderz Yes I already first time using desoldering gun and noticed too the solder melts left a hole in the nozzle.However cant removed the leftover solder on the rectifier leg on the body component side.Able to desolder the below leg part with ease.
@@mothunderz thank you..i was going to mail them saying the tip was all sealed and do i have to drill it to get the hole?😁 In fact i came here to look at that tip
Did you call the spring a feather ?
You got me there, I totally messed up that one 😂. I am Dutch and a spring in Dutch is "Veer", so some way or the other my brain translated this into feather. Well, at least you understood what I was trying to say...
@@mothunderz I knew exactly what was happening there :D we use the word "feder" here in Croatia, borrowed and skewed from German language
Same in Swedish. Easy to mix :)
strange birds in Holland.....
Yes indeed, with feather I meant a "spring" 🙂
These are completely useless for small components. Only large ones.
very hard to use on big relay and igbt on a double sided board