Just swapped my rear tire after watching your video and using your torque specs. Thanks for the upload!! Didn't run into any issues following your steps! Good job brother.
Hey Keith, thanks for this video. I just also removed the rear wheel to change tire.. I miss a bit the right order to mount back the rear wheel and the order to tighten things back.. so this is how I did it. 1. Put the rear wheel back into place and line up the gears in the shaft. 2. Put back the axle from right to left of course. Ensure to insert the washer in the right place on the right side between the caliper and the swing arm. Align the abs cover correctly with the brake caliper. 3.First tighten the axle nut (27mm) so that the wheel gets pulled into the shaft completely.. tighten the axle nut at the left side while holding the axle with a 19mm hex tool in the axle on the right. Tighten using the wrench by hand. 4. Then fasten the pinch bolt on the right to secure the axle. 5. Then tighten the axle nut left to the specified torque settings. 6.finally tighten the bolts for the caliper rod + place back the abs sensor. I hope this is the right sequence to ensure the rear wheel gear is fully inserted into the shaft by tightening the axle nut before tightening the pinch bolt on the right. Greets from belgium and sorry if I misspelled some terms..
That looks about right. When I first put the rear tire back on I had a real hard time with the axle as I was putting it on backwards! My lesson: if it doesn't go on easily, recheck it, something is probably wrong. Thanks for putting the sequence down.
That's too bad that the links don't work. I'm glad the video helped! I'm going to be switching out these tires soon and I think I'll have to refer to the video to remember how to do it. lol
Great video! Thank you for taking the time to put this together. It will no doubt prove useful in the future. Your other videos helped me make my decision to pick up a S10 earlier this year!
Great, thank you Phil! That's the highest praise I can get. I'm glad the videos helped. I've been very happy with my S10 after over a year of ownership. When I was looking to change my tires I didn't see a good, detailed description on what the process was like so I thought this video could help people in the future. Everyone needs to change tires and it's not that difficult.
Hi Keith. I just wanted to say that this video gave me the confidence to tackle this project on my Super Tenere. Your videos are very much appreciated. Be safe.
Thank you Nelly! I really appreciate that! That's why I do these...giving back for all the help I've received from others in the online community over the years. I'm sure it saved you some money vs. having the dealership do it, but the satisfaction is more powerful. Thanks!
Thanks Todd! I'm glad the video was helpful. I haven't been making videos on the Tenere lately (not sure what else to say about it). It still runs great, no issues whatsoever.
@@AdventuresWithMe00 I really appreciate the videos you've got on here, they'll be a reference for future tasks. You were also influential in my purchase decision. Thank you!
You can use two nuts doubled up in place of a hex/Allen key. If they don’t like up well, experiment with small diameter washers or a metal sleeve between them. Need a long bolt or better some threaded rod. Of course best would be the proper tool. Nice tutorial thank you!
Great series of maintenance videos. I currently ride a 2010 Stratoliner Dlx that is a major pain to work on, even a simple oil change is ridiculously difficult. Between your videos & Craig Ripley's videos I have decided my next bike will be the Super T. People bag on the Tenere for being too heavy, but my bike weighs 900 lbs. so a 580 lb. Tenere feels like a light weight. Thanks again for the great videos. Say hi to Craig!
thank you Kelly! I have met Craig and he is a great guy, just like in his videos. I appreciate those words, they truly mean a lot. The Super T IS a big heavy bike, that's true. But I find it pretty manageable and I'm a smaller guy. I don't take it in serious off-road anyway. The maintenance seems limited to oil changes and yes, they are ridiculously easy. Enjoy your Super T!
A few tips: use a broad flat screwdriver to ease the hub out with the dampers in place as you slide the rear off the gear. This will save the headache of them coming part way out. On the rear brake, no need to loosen it, just knock it up out of the way, it will stay put and save you the hassle of it dropping and wrench work. A torque wrench is nice to use, it’s alllll aluminum! Double check those front pinch bolts, they like to escape the bike (as do the brake and clutch lever pivot bolts) Lastly, great time to play the spokes to check for tightness.
Hi, I did a drive shaft service and I put the washer between the wheel and caliper, not in that way like you show (min 3:23) , so I have that doubt, what is the correct washer position? No wrong function was felt, so I´m very confused 🤷♂️
I've always put the washer between the wheel and the shaft, like in the video. I believe that's the original way it's supposed to go. Maybe I should check a service manual?? No one has ever questioned it before so I would assume that is correct.
thanks for your detailed description, I did it just in that order, but I had a problem with the unified brake system; I don´t know what happened, because the ignition check doesn´t indicate any fault, just the unified brake system doesn´t work any more....!
that's very strange. I've never had an issue with the brake system after I put the wheels back on. I've changed them several times since I filmed this video. Did you get the problem fixed?
There's a set of short 3/8" drive allen sockets at autozone that has a 19mm in it. It's a lot easier than trying to use that piece out of your WR kit.I'm gonna run the E-07s next on my Tenere, too.
Thanks David, that's a good tip. I did get just the 19mm hex socket there too. The E-07's seem like the real deal. I've since put a couple hundred miles on mine and they have lived up to the initial expectations.
You can also use a short piece of 3/4" hex bar stock (which is 19.05mm), and a 19mm or 3/4" socket on the end of that. My Vstrom front axle used the same size, and a local machine shop let me paw through their scrap bin.
Thanks again for this video - I had a rear flat / couldn't remember where that washer on the brake side went. I put it on the inside next to the abs sensor plate.....lots of rubbing noise. As soon as my back recovers, I'm going out to re locate it to the correct position. LOL
In the 80s we were grateful to have air tools, today people are grateful to have power tools, this channel "I still have a 1980 craftsam ratchet! As do I :P For the front axle nut I always just weld a nut onto a bolt as each bike seems to be a bit different, then use a wrench or socket to remove :) I also found that just taking the rear torque rod loose from the caliper made life wayyy easier. I also just removed the front caliper, why does youtube insist on fighting instead of simple removals? Otherwise Nice vid, I lost my manual, thank you.
Tip: Do NOT trust hydraulic jacks. Put something solid under the bike. Don't ask me how I learned this valuable lesson with my Super T. And no its not much lighter with the wheels off :-). I now use a wooden stand I built the fits under the skid plate and holds the front wheel about an inch off the ground, rock solid.
Should always use some sort of safety mechanism although I use a cherry picker and admittedly do not. I never have forgotten a call my father got when his friend, A mechanic had a car fall on him, he did not makei t.
When I take brake calipers off I put a bit of flat wood , about 3” x 2” x 1/4”, like a dummy brake disc between the pads then press the brake to hold it in place so you can’t accidentally push the brake pistons out
Keith, even though it's been some time since you produced the S10 videos, they are still very much appreciated. I'm sort of in your neck of the woods (Southern ME), so your VT rides are plausible to me. What do you do in the winter while you wait for spring?
Thanks for watching the videos still! I'm glad they are useful for other riders. I actually go back to this video anytime I need to change the tires. lol I have been working on a vintage baseball card channel and building that up. I also work on selling stuff on eBay to keep busy during the cold months. Thanks for the comment. I still love my S10, it's just that I don't think I have a lot to say on it anymore. It's been a very reliable and somewhat boring bike!
Helpful video. I got my Super Ten last week and am thinking of swapping the stock tires for the Mitas ones like you got, heard good things about them. What kind of mileage have you gotten out of them?
I got 12,700 miles out of the front and that was only replaced because I got a screw in it. The last Mitas rear tire I changed lasted 9,500 miles. The current rear has been on 3,500 on it...I"m not sure if it will make it to 9,000.
@@AdventuresWithMe00 OK great, thanks! Might have to pull the trigger and get a pair then. Keep the videos coming, they've made living with my bike a lot more convenient.
A couple of things... 1, you need to make sure that the little notch thing on the ABS "plate", both front and rear, get hooked by the tab or they will spin. (poor explaination, but you will know what I mean when you look for it). 2, the rear axle didn't want to come out so I used a 3/4" dowel as a drift pin to hammer it out. Then for re-assembly, I coated the axle lightly with anti-seize compound so it will never happen again.
Did you notice any vibration in the handle bars and foot pegs? Also, did you find any issues with the tires slipping in the wet weather? I have had 3 sets of K60’s and they last very long time and the back is fine...the front fades in gravel...not a fan of the front tire. Planning to try the Mitas this time. Thanks
that's a great question. I haven't ridden the bike in three months, but I remember that the tires did not excessively vibrate on the street. The Mitas tires really felt like street tires. On another bike I'd used the TKC80, which admittedly are more aggressive, and you could feel it. Not the Mitas. I haven't had any issues in rain with the Mitas, nor any fading or slipping issues. The only thing I haven't tried it in is mud and I don't suspect it would do very well. But I don't think any 50/50 tire is going to do well in mud.
Thanks for this video, I am trying to change the wheels for the first tmee. I am a bit concerned about the cushion plate, Will it all fall apart when you remove the wheel? Any tips om that,and how to reassemble everything. I have seen other comments that you could use ducktape to keep it in place while re-assembling it. What do you think? I have a Super Tenere -14. Greetings from Sweden.
Sorry I didn't see this sooner. I hope you got it figured out. By the cushion plate do you mean the rubber pieces inside the hubs? I went through the video and wasn't sure what you were referring to. Those rubber pieces will stay in place though. You shouldn't need to use duct tape.
@@AdventuresWithMe00 thx, I managed to put the rear wheel back in place today, it was tricky to get the splines correctly. When I was ready I Saw that the ABS plate was not in the same position as before, not possible now to fasten the screw on this plate now. I will take bike for a drive tomorrow to test it. There is always something! If it works , I will put the screw back the next time I change tire.
@@AdventuresWithMe00 yes you are right! But I will test it today to see if it works.I now have Metzler karoo street tyres, I will try them on some gravel roads and tarmac of course to see how they perform.
Hi Keith. I know it’s been a while since you did this video but as I am at the same place, with the same bike, as you were then, I am keenly interested in one particular issue with the EO7 tire. I have been led to understand that the Dakar version is supremely difficult to almost impossible to mount ..... especially if there was some reason to have to do so trail side. I would be grateful for your impressions in this regard. Thank you.
Hi Rob, sorry for the delay in responding. I have mounted all my tires with a No-Mar system a friend has. All of these tires can be a bear to get onto a rim and seat the bead properly. I don't recall the Dakar being any more difficult than the others we have done. Lately, when we have been installing the tires, we have abandoned the No-Mar tools and gone back to plain old tire irons for the final bead. They work much better. So that reinforces to me that you could take this tire off and on while on the side of the trail. I would recommend having someone with you for assistance.
I fitted an E-07 to my front wheel this morning but the rear wheel wasn't co-operating. Hopefully after watching more YT vids I'll manage tomorrow. Just the standard E-07, thankfully not the Dakar. They are tough, heavy tyres. Wish me luck!
Are you trying to get the tire mounted with hand tools? My buddy and I use a tire machine but actually find it easier to mount them with tire irons at the end.
@@AdventuresWithMe00 Yes, hand tools, I gave up on Sunday afternoon before I started swearing, returned in Monday morning after watching as many YT vids as possible, and lube lube lube and a pair of clamps to pull the sidewalls into the well and it went ok. Thanks for your video!
I think the 07 is a great tire on road. I had been using the TKC80 before that. But those tires only last 3,000 miles and have more vibration. In the dirt, they are awesome, but the 07's are not much worse and you gain the mileage and smoothness.
My friends and I don't balance these tires. The riding is primarily on dirt roads and lower speed street riding. We don't feel any difference. On a dedicated street bike I would be more dedicated to getting them balanced.
AdventureswithMe Thanks for the video. I removed my tires yesterday in the hopes of dismounting and mounting my own tires. I was successful to the point of breaking the bead but found it impossible to get the tire off the rim. Ended up at the bike shop. Sigh
Hey Keith Thx for taking the time to put this together. Did ya have fun getting the rear wheel back on? You can buy a handy tool for the front axle here www.ebay.com.au/itm/Motion-Pro-Hex-Axle-Tool-/361972738405?hash=item544741a965:g:Y4UAAOSw-3FZDerx This tool will allow you to torque the axle to spec (72Nm 52ft-lb). You don’t need to remove a front caliper if you remove the fender and rotate the stanchions just as the tyre hits the calipers. Cheers from another S10/WRR owner. Take care.
Ha, ha, the rear wheel was a real pain to get back on, but that was my own foolishness. For some reason I thought the axle went in reversed and I couldn't understand why it wouldn't go fit going through that way (with the axle nut on the right side). Otherwise it was pretty straightforward to line up the shaft drive and the caliper. That's a great tool to use for the front axle. I didn't think it was too hard to just remove one of the front calipers vs removing the fender. Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for breaking down the tools during the video. Saved me walking to the toolbox 5 times! Also great how to video!
Thank you Kyle, appreciate that!
It was great to have all my tools laid out before I dug into the bike. Efficient and less trips on and off the floor!
Just swapped my rear tire after watching your video and using your torque specs. Thanks for the upload!! Didn't run into any issues following your steps! Good job brother.
Thanks...I'm really glad it helped a fellow Tenere owner.
Hey Keith, thanks for this video. I just also removed the rear wheel to change tire.. I miss a bit the right order to mount back the rear wheel and the order to tighten things back.. so this is how I did it.
1. Put the rear wheel back into place and line up the gears in the shaft.
2. Put back the axle from right to left of course. Ensure to insert the washer in the right place on the right side between the caliper and the swing arm. Align the abs cover correctly with the brake caliper.
3.First tighten the axle nut (27mm) so that the wheel gets pulled into the shaft completely.. tighten the axle nut at the left side while holding the axle with a 19mm hex tool in the axle on the right. Tighten using the wrench by hand.
4. Then fasten the pinch bolt on the right to secure the axle.
5. Then tighten the axle nut left to the specified torque settings.
6.finally tighten the bolts for the caliper rod + place back the abs sensor.
I hope this is the right sequence to ensure the rear wheel gear is fully inserted into the shaft by tightening the axle nut before tightening the pinch bolt on the right.
Greets from belgium and sorry if I misspelled some terms..
That looks about right. When I first put the rear tire back on I had a real hard time with the axle as I was putting it on backwards! My lesson: if it doesn't go on easily, recheck it, something is probably wrong. Thanks for putting the sequence down.
Thanks for this! Just got done swapping tires (Road 5 Trail). The links don’t work anymore so the torque values in the description are really helpful!
That's too bad that the links don't work. I'm glad the video helped! I'm going to be switching out these tires soon and I think I'll have to refer to the video to remember how to do it. lol
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Very well done! Adding the tool description made the job so much easier and faster.
Good, glad it helped. I still use the video as a reference when I change my tires. Too many steps to keep straight!
Great video! Thank you for taking the time to put this together. It will no doubt prove useful in the future. Your other videos helped me make my decision to pick up a S10 earlier this year!
Great, thank you Phil! That's the highest praise I can get. I'm glad the videos helped. I've been very happy with my S10 after over a year of ownership.
When I was looking to change my tires I didn't see a good, detailed description on what the process was like so I thought this video could help people in the future. Everyone needs to change tires and it's not that difficult.
Hi Keith. I just wanted to say that this video gave me the confidence to tackle this project on my Super Tenere. Your videos are very much appreciated. Be safe.
Thank you Nelly! I really appreciate that! That's why I do these...giving back for all the help I've received from others in the online community over the years. I'm sure it saved you some money vs. having the dealership do it, but the satisfaction is more powerful. Thanks!
Thank you for providing valuable tips and information. I bought my 2015 Super Tenere ES last week and you have a new subscriber!
Thanks Todd! I'm glad the video was helpful. I haven't been making videos on the Tenere lately (not sure what else to say about it). It still runs great, no issues whatsoever.
@@AdventuresWithMe00 I really appreciate the videos you've got on here, they'll be a reference for future tasks. You were also influential in my purchase decision. Thank you!
Big thanks for adding the torque specs... It helped me a bunch. Good Walk thru too.
You can use two nuts doubled up in place of a hex/Allen key. If they don’t like up well, experiment with small diameter washers or a metal sleeve between them.
Need a long bolt or better some threaded rod. Of course best would be the proper tool.
Nice tutorial thank you!
Great series of maintenance videos. I currently ride a 2010 Stratoliner Dlx that is a major pain to work on, even a simple oil change is ridiculously difficult. Between your videos & Craig Ripley's videos I have decided my next bike will be the Super T. People bag on the Tenere for being too heavy, but my bike weighs 900 lbs. so a 580 lb. Tenere feels like a light weight. Thanks again for the great videos. Say hi to Craig!
thank you Kelly! I have met Craig and he is a great guy, just like in his videos.
I appreciate those words, they truly mean a lot. The Super T IS a big heavy bike, that's true. But I find it pretty manageable and I'm a smaller guy. I don't take it in serious off-road anyway.
The maintenance seems limited to oil changes and yes, they are ridiculously easy. Enjoy your Super T!
A few tips: use a broad flat screwdriver to ease the hub out with the dampers in place as you slide the rear off the gear. This will save the headache of them coming part way out.
On the rear brake, no need to loosen it, just knock it up out of the way, it will stay put and save you the hassle of it dropping and wrench work.
A torque wrench is nice to use, it’s alllll aluminum! Double check those front pinch bolts, they like to escape the bike (as do the brake and clutch lever pivot bolts)
Lastly, great time to play the spokes to check for tightness.
Great tips, thank you!
I just got my Tenere a few weeks ago. Thank you Thank you!!!
You're welcome! Glad to have helped! Enjoy the Tenere this season!
Old video and a good one. Thanks.
I got the full impact allen head socket set at Harbor Freight 6mm-19mm for $29...Just mounted a set of Dunop Trailmax Mission tires on my S10...
Hi, I did a drive shaft service and I put the washer between the wheel and caliper, not in that way like you show (min 3:23) , so I have that doubt, what is the correct washer position? No wrong function was felt, so I´m very confused 🤷♂️
I've always put the washer between the wheel and the shaft, like in the video. I believe that's the original way it's supposed to go. Maybe I should check a service manual?? No one has ever questioned it before so I would assume that is correct.
thanks for your detailed description, I did it just in that order, but I had a problem with the unified brake system; I don´t know what happened, because the ignition check doesn´t indicate any fault, just the unified brake system doesn´t work any more....!
that's very strange. I've never had an issue with the brake system after I put the wheels back on. I've changed them several times since I filmed this video.
Did you get the problem fixed?
There's a set of short 3/8" drive allen sockets at autozone that has a 19mm in it. It's a lot easier than trying to use that piece out of your WR kit.I'm gonna run the E-07s next on my Tenere, too.
Thanks David, that's a good tip. I did get just the 19mm hex socket there too.
The E-07's seem like the real deal. I've since put a couple hundred miles on mine and they have lived up to the initial expectations.
You can also use a short piece of 3/4" hex bar stock (which is 19.05mm), and a 19mm or 3/4" socket on the end of that. My Vstrom front axle used the same size, and a local machine shop let me paw through their scrap bin.
great idea, thanks!
There is a similar tool (to the one from the WR250R used in the video) in the S10 tool kit.
Thanks again for this video - I had a rear flat / couldn't remember where that washer on the brake side went. I put it on the inside next to the abs sensor plate.....lots of rubbing noise. As soon as my back recovers, I'm going out to re locate it to the correct position. LOL
In the 80s we were grateful to have air tools, today people are grateful to have power tools, this channel "I still have a 1980 craftsam ratchet!
As do I :P
For the front axle nut I always just weld a nut onto a bolt as each bike seems to be a bit different, then use a wrench or socket to remove :)
I also found that just taking the rear torque rod loose from the caliper made life wayyy easier. I also just removed the front caliper, why does youtube insist on fighting instead of simple removals?
Otherwise Nice vid, I lost my manual, thank you.
Tip: Do NOT trust hydraulic jacks. Put something solid under the bike. Don't ask me how I learned this valuable lesson with my Super T. And no its not much lighter with the wheels off :-). I now use a wooden stand I built the fits under the skid plate and holds the front wheel about an inch off the ground, rock solid.
Did you make that stand yourself? That sounds like a good setup.
In the past I would put straps from the roof to the handlebars as a safety measure.
Should always use some sort of safety mechanism although I use a cherry picker and admittedly do not.
I never have forgotten a call my father got when his friend, A mechanic had a car fall on him, he did not makei t.
The weight on the jack is only a few pounds in this operation. It’s no big deal.
Greetings form Costa Rica, by the way...!
When I take brake calipers off I put a bit of flat wood , about 3” x 2” x 1/4”, like a dummy brake disc between the pads then press the brake to hold it in place so you can’t accidentally push the brake pistons out
That's a great tip Jabba. I never thought to do that. Good idea!
Great job Keith!
thanks Patrick! Glad to be a help!
Keith, even though it's been some time since you produced the S10 videos, they are still very much appreciated. I'm sort of in your neck of the woods (Southern ME), so your VT rides are plausible to me. What do you do in the winter while you wait for spring?
Thanks for watching the videos still! I'm glad they are useful for other riders. I actually go back to this video anytime I need to change the tires. lol
I have been working on a vintage baseball card channel and building that up. I also work on selling stuff on eBay to keep busy during the cold months.
Thanks for the comment. I still love my S10, it's just that I don't think I have a lot to say on it anymore. It's been a very reliable and somewhat boring bike!
Going to take my front wheel off tomorrow. First thing I'll have buy a 19mm hex head!
Helpful video. I got my Super Ten last week and am thinking of swapping the stock tires for the Mitas ones like you got, heard good things about them. What kind of mileage have you gotten out of them?
I got 12,700 miles out of the front and that was only replaced because I got a screw in it. The last Mitas rear tire I changed lasted 9,500 miles. The current rear has been on 3,500 on it...I"m not sure if it will make it to 9,000.
@@AdventuresWithMe00 OK great, thanks! Might have to pull the trigger and get a pair then.
Keep the videos coming, they've made living with my bike a lot more convenient.
A couple of things... 1, you need to make sure that the little notch thing on the ABS "plate", both front and rear, get hooked by the tab or they will spin. (poor explaination, but you will know what I mean when you look for it). 2, the rear axle didn't want to come out so I used a 3/4" dowel as a drift pin to hammer it out. Then for re-assembly, I coated the axle lightly with anti-seize compound so it will never happen again.
yes, those are very important steps. If I didn't explain the notch of the ABS plate, I should have. Thanks for commenting!
when i put the rear wheel back on should i put some grease on axel and on the inside of the rear hub? Thank you.
I would just slide some grease on the outside of the axle bolt/shaft. That should be fine.
Did you notice any vibration in the handle bars and foot pegs? Also, did you find any issues with the tires slipping in the wet weather? I have had 3 sets of K60’s and they last very long time and the back is fine...the front fades in gravel...not a fan of the front tire. Planning to try the Mitas this time. Thanks
that's a great question. I haven't ridden the bike in three months, but I remember that the tires did not excessively vibrate on the street. The Mitas tires really felt like street tires. On another bike I'd used the TKC80, which admittedly are more aggressive, and you could feel it. Not the Mitas.
I haven't had any issues in rain with the Mitas, nor any fading or slipping issues. The only thing I haven't tried it in is mud and I don't suspect it would do very well. But I don't think any 50/50 tire is going to do well in mud.
Thanks for this video, I am trying to change the wheels for the first tmee. I am a bit concerned about the cushion plate, Will it all fall apart when you remove the wheel? Any tips om that,and how to reassemble everything. I have seen other comments that you could use ducktape to keep it in place while re-assembling it. What do you think? I have a Super Tenere -14.
Greetings from Sweden.
Sorry I didn't see this sooner. I hope you got it figured out. By the cushion plate do you mean the rubber pieces inside the hubs? I went through the video and wasn't sure what you were referring to.
Those rubber pieces will stay in place though. You shouldn't need to use duct tape.
@@AdventuresWithMe00 thx, I managed to put the rear wheel back in place today, it was tricky to get the splines correctly. When I was ready I Saw that the ABS plate was not in the same position as before, not possible now to fasten the screw on this plate now. I will take bike for a drive tomorrow to test it. There is always something! If it works , I will put the screw back the next time I change tire.
@@erikferm5421 can’t you just pull the tire back off and get it all lined up?
@@AdventuresWithMe00 yes you are right! But I will test it today to see if it works.I now have Metzler karoo street tyres, I will try them on some gravel roads and tarmac of course to see how they perform.
Hi Keith.
I know it’s been a while since you did this video but as I am at the same place, with the same bike, as you were then, I am keenly interested in one particular issue with the EO7 tire. I have been led to understand that the Dakar version is supremely difficult to almost impossible to mount ..... especially if there was some reason to have to do so trail side.
I would be grateful for your impressions in this regard.
Thank you.
There are better tires than the E07 now...check out the Dunlop Mission and the Bridgestone Battleax
Hi Rob, sorry for the delay in responding.
I have mounted all my tires with a No-Mar system a friend has. All of these tires can be a bear to get onto a rim and seat the bead properly. I don't recall the Dakar being any more difficult than the others we have done.
Lately, when we have been installing the tires, we have abandoned the No-Mar tools and gone back to plain old tire irons for the final bead. They work much better. So that reinforces to me that you could take this tire off and on while on the side of the trail. I would recommend having someone with you for assistance.
AdventureswithMe thanks Keith!!
I fitted an E-07 to my front wheel this morning but the rear wheel wasn't co-operating. Hopefully after watching more YT vids I'll manage tomorrow. Just the standard E-07, thankfully not the Dakar. They are tough, heavy tyres. Wish me luck!
Are you trying to get the tire mounted with hand tools? My buddy and I use a tire machine but actually find it easier to mount them with tire irons at the end.
@@AdventuresWithMe00 Yes, hand tools, I gave up on Sunday afternoon before I started swearing, returned in Monday morning after watching as many YT vids as possible, and lube lube lube and a pair of clamps to pull the sidewalls into the well and it went ok. Thanks for your video!
thanks for video,how is the e 07 on the road asphalt ?
I think the 07 is a great tire on road. I had been using the TKC80 before that. But those tires only last 3,000 miles and have more vibration. In the dirt, they are awesome, but the 07's are not much worse and you gain the mileage and smoothness.
I'm about to fit the Mitas Eo7 PLus rear
It's a great tire. I think you'll really like it.
Man, that was quite complicated, especially the rear wheel. It's much, much simpler in my mighty old BMW K75 and K100. 4 bolts and that's it...
Yes, it's more than some other bikes. A standard swingarm with shaft drive will be more complicated than some others.
I miss my old K100
Yeah, it's a great bike. Mine is from the first production month in Sept. 1983...
what year is your Super Tenere'?
The Tenere is a 2014, the first year of the update.
Is there a need for balancing?
My friends and I don't balance these tires. The riding is primarily on dirt roads and lower speed street riding. We don't feel any difference. On a dedicated street bike I would be more dedicated to getting them balanced.
AdventureswithMe Thanks for the video. I removed my tires yesterday in the hopes of dismounting and mounting my own tires. I was successful to the point of breaking the bead but found it impossible to get the tire off the rim. Ended up at the bike shop. Sigh
Hey Keith
Thx for taking the time to put this together. Did ya have fun getting the rear wheel back on? You can buy a handy tool for the front axle here
www.ebay.com.au/itm/Motion-Pro-Hex-Axle-Tool-/361972738405?hash=item544741a965:g:Y4UAAOSw-3FZDerx
This tool will allow you to torque the axle to spec (72Nm 52ft-lb).
You don’t need to remove a front caliper if you remove the fender and rotate the stanchions just as the tyre hits the calipers.
Cheers from another S10/WRR owner. Take care.
Ha, ha, the rear wheel was a real pain to get back on, but that was my own foolishness. For some reason I thought the axle went in reversed and I couldn't understand why it wouldn't go fit going through that way (with the axle nut on the right side). Otherwise it was pretty straightforward to line up the shaft drive and the caliper.
That's a great tool to use for the front axle. I didn't think it was too hard to just remove one of the front calipers vs removing the fender.
Thanks for the comment!