Having recently survived -10° F camping in northern Colorado in a 3 season trailer at 9000' elevation, I think I'm experienced at keeping things from freezing (too much). I was boondocking so staying connected to a pedestal wasn't an issue. If I was at a campground (ick!) I would be sourcing water from the fresh water tank, which is insulated (by me) to about R-15. The things I did that kept the lines from freezing: 1. Keep it warm inside. We went through about 75 lbs of propane over 10 days. 2. Trailer skirt. This kept the wind from pushing cold air under the trailer. The effectiveness of this cannot be understated. 3. Generator. I ran the generator more than I normally would. Not for charging the batteries, which the solar did a fine job of. The tank heaters simply pull too many watts to run them from the batteries alone for very long. The generator also produced enough heat that it seemed to warm the underside of the trailer. The exhaust pipe was routed outside the trailer skirt, so there were no worries about fumes. Whenever the generator was on, I ran a 1500 watt space heater to supplement the propane furnace. 4. Insulated Fresh Water Tank. As mentioned earlier, I insulated it myself with a double layer of rigid foam insulation to about R-15 and then covered that with form fitting Coroplast. The water in this 120 gallon tank never froze. The black and gray tanks are not insulated, but do have pad heaters, which were on whenever the generator was on. The black and gray tanks likely froze but never backed up, maybe due to the use of the tank heaters. 5. Sealed Vents. All vents got sealed. Ceiling vents, side vents and the stove hood vent. There were too many drafts if I didn't. The trailer has plenty of other drafts - it's a toy hauler - that aren't vents, so there was still air exchange going on. 6. Open the cabinets. Without some airflow behind the cabinets I had a short section freeze. Once I opened it up, none of the PEX froze. 7. Insulate the Cargo Door. I sealed the edges of the door to prevent drafts. That was good but a sleeping bag draped over the door made a surprising difference. Next time I'll probably bring a couple sheets of 1.5" rigid foam insulation to place on the inside of the door instead of the sleeping bag. 8. Insulate the windows. Jared recommends the Reflectix. I use that for the small windows. For the big windows I now use the 3/4" or 1" rigid foam panels. The rigid foam is far more effective. Without the rigid foam, the windows let in more cold than did the the cargo door. 9. Solar. I had enough excess solar power being generated that I was able to run a 500 watt space heater off of solar alone. It was enough to keep the bathroom - where most of my critical pipes are located - from getting too cold. 10. Rugs. I put down rugs over as much of the floor as I could. At the very least, my feet weren't as cold.
Thank you for this comment. I originally was gonna go with a let's see what's it called. Some bubble foam type stuff on the windows but now I thk I'll go with the r tech you were talking about. More expensive but btr insulation. Thanks!
I live full-time in the rv and running water will not freeze so if you let your faucet drip water it will not freeze not really a permanent solution but it works. Also turning off the water faucet at night and allowing the water to drain out of the pipes an leaving your fresh water valve open so no water is ever in the tank works where I like however it only snows here every couple of years just gets really cold and stuff does tend to freeze when you dont expect it because the weather is so unpredictable. Im also going to put reflective insulation with flash tape to insulate the bottom of the motorhome to help keep it warm as well. Thought those might be helpful.
Something I wanted to point out I noticed a lot of bad reviews on these heated garden hoses. people saying they stopped working against the reviews I ended up purchasing one. anyways shortly after the hose froze up and did not heat up it did not make sense to me because it is a simple design it is essentially a heating element down the hose .so I grew suspicious that the orange thermostat was faulty correct I was the thermostat was bad I simply cut off the thermostat and hardwired it obviously it will not be temperature regulated now but it guarantees to work
I use a little different method, but it saves me $$$ & space of a 2nd hose to carry. At night I drain the hose & disconnect. I disconnect the filter & regulator and place them in my heated water station. First thing in the morning I take a tea kettle with hot water and pour it over the hose bib. Re-connect all back up & good to go until late at night again.Just part of my 5 minute walk around I do every night before we turn out the lights and hit the sack. Last Winter at a State CG I was one of the very few who still had running water after a couple of days.
I ran into cold weather camping in Utah recently. I filled the fresh water tank and put the hose away. I have a belly panel so my tanks are somewhat protected. I turned on the incandescent lights in the storage area and opened a panel to where the water pump sits. I had no problems. Getting the ice and snow removed from my slide was another story!
Jared, thank you for the info. With winter approaching and temps dropping, we've been trying to weigh or options for fresh water. Your video was fantastic and extremely informative as your videos usually are. Thanks man!
My wife and I were just talking about heated hoses this year - we didn't have one last year - and then your video popped up! Thanks for the tips! From a full-time RVer.
Very thoroughly covered ! I have one thing to add; For DIY, there is only one RV hose I know of that is actually rated by the mfr for use with heat tape, and that is _Ebonyline_ , which is now marketed by _Valterra_ . Most other reinforced RV hoses have specific warnings on the instructions specifying unsafe for use with heat tape.
Thank you so much. I haven't bought hoses or heat tape yet. It's.summer here. But I'm budgeting for winter and I'm like all of these say not to use with heat tape. Which I'm sure is for safety but I'd rather not melt my first hose lol so I found ebony line and that will work for me. Thank you for this comment it was super helpful.
Just want to thank you for hours of information that you have provided. We are new to this experience and had our first on the road excursion. Flawless due to your suggestions. Thank you so much.
I couldn't imagine why a heated cable would fail if you weren't rough with it and set it up correctly. But great video! Always appreciate your videos and the time you spend really researching and giving your honest opinion.
Picked up a couple hoses before my winter trip. But Looking at my fellow RV'rs I think i could have got by without the purchase. But I have them now, and they worked just fine.
Jfi, I have the valterra heated hoses (25 & 50ft), they specifically say you cannot connect the hoses together to extend the length. Such that you cannot buy two 25ft hoses and expect them to create a 50ft hose, or take a 25ft and connect it to the 50ft and create a 75ft hose. Cheers 🍻
Just saw the video today. So sad, I needed this two weeks ago when I purchased a heated hose prior to our trip from S CA to the Nashville TN area. We encountered snow and temps in the low 20s. I didn’t test or connect the heated hose in advance. Shame on me. My RV doesn’t have a 120v outlet near the water bay. I had an extension cord but it didn’t have a three prong adapter. So I couldn’t use the heated hose. I also didn’t think about putting the water pressure regulator in the water bay. Thanks for that tip. I will be adding a 120v outlet in the future!
Thank you SO much for this video! We bought a heated waterhose in Dec. 2020, which just sprang 2 leaks. We 'repaired' those with butyl tape and All weather Gorilla tape today. Only to cause a new fairly gushing leak in another spot. Sooo, we've been going back and forth about which way to go on a new hose all day. Temps freezing soon. This was very helpful in our decision making.
We love our bought heated hose. I also keep heated tape just in case I need it. We had to heat the spigot at a campground once because they did not have one. Funny thing, we were the only camper that had running water...
Hi Jared! Great videos! I need to know how to insulate the water hydrant pipe in my RV park. Nobody is making videos on this. It doesn't seem to matter what I wrap it with, I can't get anything but frozen water out of it. My expensive RV spot is worthless right now and I'm having to stay in a hotel. The temps are from 10F to 20F at night and 50F in the daytime. I can't go to a warmer climate because I'm here visiting a sick elderly relative. I'm here for the duration of her illness. My heated water hose did great at the other noisy park, but I relocated to this one which is much quieter. This place doesn't provide water hydrant socks or any sort of insulation. That's what I'd like to see a video on. The only thing I can find are water faucet videos. @all about RV's.
oh how i needed to watch and hear this, big horn fifth wheel temporary residence after house fire, south east Ontario (possible -30C), the idea of eves trough cable hit me. I am a carpenter/ roofer.. I've seen them work real time as I work beside them. Thinking I could also do my tanks and entire floor maybe. I run off of 12000 watt gene, gas/propane, 3000 watt inverter and two 280 amp/hr lithium batteries, 3000 watt pure sine wave inverter. Two 420lbs propane tanks. Solar panels soon. Should I look for 12volts heat cable, besides the heat cable I will vertically skirt the RV with stick frame structure that uses 1 1/2" (R9) double foilback ridged insulation. I would love your advice, in any form or fashion. (Edit) Made this comment before watching hole video.Thankyou for what you do. Still appreciate your advice or links to your advice. Again, thankyou!
I enjoy watching your rv videos. I am installing self regulating heat tape to my outdoor water source, then on the hose. My question is do you cover the thermostat on the heat cable with insulation or leave the thermostat exposed? I have watch several videos. Some say don't cover the thermostat other say it is ok the wrap the thermostat with insulation. What is your thoughts. Thanks
I called and asked Frost King technical support and they say that you are not SUPPOSED to use those FK heating cables in exterior applications. I understand that there is theory and "real world" as it relates to some products though. Are you saying that you (or people you know) routinely use these outside successfully?
...living in the N.Sac.Valley, CA, we Do have Some overnight "Hard freezes" during winter ( God only knows what This Winter will be like!) The 5th Wheel I live in has aprx. 40 ft of hose from outlet to inlet, 1/2 on dirt, 1/2 on concrete (Hard on hoses with temps from 100's to freezing!) Do you think the black foam pipe insulation will protect hoses ( hopefully with another outdoor faucet left dripping)? Thanks again!
Diy is not bad if you stay put for a time but if you move every week to a month factory headed hose is better, Diy heated hose does not role up easy at all, factory doesn't role easy but can be done with 3 hands, I recommend factory even if it takes all summer to save up for it will pay for itself over 2 or 3 winters. 7 yrs full timer.
Hey Jared, can you recommend something to insulate my 4in PVC plumbing septic hose? We are stationary. I didn't think I could use regular insulation as it can't get wet.
We are doing any winter camping. It would get rather cold for now, we have a hybrid. 😀 Good video though. Just wondering, are you not using the Jared Gillis channel anymore?
A simple tip if you don't want to have to worry about heating anything just leave the faucet running a little bit inside the RV but obviously make sure it will not fill up the gray tank moving water cannot freeze
If there are drain valves above floor level, no insulation. If they are plugged at ends, use 3/4" or 1" ID 1/2 wall thickness foam pipe insulation attached with 12" nylon wire ties.
@@skiphudson8321 If you're concerned about them, maybe two layers of insulation would be good, however in 24 years doing RV repairs I've never had a case of damaged seasonal drains except on rigs left vacant for the winter with water in the pipes. Our lows never get below about 17° here. If you're somewhere colder you may need a different strategy.
Yes I have seen that but after months of using it with heat cable and the white hose I saw no negative effects after full time use. The hose actually gets hotter in the summer from sitting in the sun.
@@TheTruthPlease100 the reason I say that is because the plastic could Leach from the hose if it is not meant to be heated up if you are drinking from it I would almost recommend purchasing a heated garden hose
@1:44: "But we haven't had any of that [failure] in any of these systems...." Should really read: "But we haven't had any of that [failure] in any of these systems, YET!" Almost guarantee that the PIRIT hose won't last more than two, three winters! AMAZON consistently has 30% 1-Star ratings for premature failure of the PIRIT hoses.
I had a failure with the pirate heated hose but a lot of people don't understand it's not the hose it is the thermostat at the end it just does not make contact completing the current if you bypass that thermostat it works perfect
@@iair-conditiontheoutsideai3076 Aye, that's definitely a good place to start looking/troubleshooting, as it would be a relatively easy fix. I just pulled apart one of our failed PIRIT hoses, and I was hopeful that it would only be the thermostat, but alas, the thermostat was working perfectly; it was the heating wire itself that was embedded in the hose.
@@iair-conditiontheoutsideai3076 Yes, that's exactly what I did first. I was pretty confident that it was just a faulty thermostat, so i first cut it off, and connected the two wires together.....NOTHING. I even went as far as test the cut-off thermostat, by alternating putting it in snow and heating it up afterward and testing continuity: it worked flawlessly. Thanks for the follow-up message (I appreciate it), and I am pleased that you got it working again. I have a second (longer) PIRIT hose that's also not working anymore, and will do the same (cutting the thermostat off): maybe I will get lucky and on that one it IS the thermostat that's broken, as I still have the other, working one. Cheers.
@@yesterdayfarm5273 I would contact the person you got it from and tell them that I actually ended up getting mine for free because I complained about it freezing up when it should have turned on
Having recently survived -10° F camping in northern Colorado in a 3 season trailer at 9000' elevation, I think I'm experienced at keeping things from freezing (too much). I was boondocking so staying connected to a pedestal wasn't an issue. If I was at a campground (ick!) I would be sourcing water from the fresh water tank, which is insulated (by me) to about R-15. The things I did that kept the lines from freezing:
1. Keep it warm inside. We went through about 75 lbs of propane over 10 days.
2. Trailer skirt. This kept the wind from pushing cold air under the trailer. The effectiveness of this cannot be understated.
3. Generator. I ran the generator more than I normally would. Not for charging the batteries, which the solar did a fine job of. The tank heaters simply pull too many watts to run them from the batteries alone for very long. The generator also produced enough heat that it seemed to warm the underside of the trailer. The exhaust pipe was routed outside the trailer skirt, so there were no worries about fumes. Whenever the generator was on, I ran a 1500 watt space heater to supplement the propane furnace.
4. Insulated Fresh Water Tank. As mentioned earlier, I insulated it myself with a double layer of rigid foam insulation to about R-15 and then covered that with form fitting Coroplast. The water in this 120 gallon tank never froze. The black and gray tanks are not insulated, but do have pad heaters, which were on whenever the generator was on. The black and gray tanks likely froze but never backed up, maybe due to the use of the tank heaters.
5. Sealed Vents. All vents got sealed. Ceiling vents, side vents and the stove hood vent. There were too many drafts if I didn't. The trailer has plenty of other drafts - it's a toy hauler - that aren't vents, so there was still air exchange going on.
6. Open the cabinets. Without some airflow behind the cabinets I had a short section freeze. Once I opened it up, none of the PEX froze.
7. Insulate the Cargo Door. I sealed the edges of the door to prevent drafts. That was good but a sleeping bag draped over the door made a surprising difference. Next time I'll probably bring a couple sheets of 1.5" rigid foam insulation to place on the inside of the door instead of the sleeping bag.
8. Insulate the windows. Jared recommends the Reflectix. I use that for the small windows. For the big windows I now use the 3/4" or 1" rigid foam panels. The rigid foam is far more effective. Without the rigid foam, the windows let in more cold than did the the cargo door.
9. Solar. I had enough excess solar power being generated that I was able to run a 500 watt space heater off of solar alone. It was enough to keep the bathroom - where most of my critical pipes are located - from getting too cold.
10. Rugs. I put down rugs over as much of the floor as I could. At the very least, my feet weren't as cold.
Thank you for this comment. I originally was gonna go with a let's see what's it called. Some bubble foam type stuff on the windows but now I thk I'll go with the r tech you were talking about. More expensive but btr insulation. Thanks!
All great ideas! Yeah, Reflectix has it's uses but insulating is not the best one.
I live full-time in the rv and running water will not freeze so if you let your faucet drip water it will not freeze not really a permanent solution but it works. Also turning off the water faucet at night and allowing the water to drain out of the pipes an leaving your fresh water valve open so no water is ever in the tank works where I like however it only snows here every couple of years just gets really cold and stuff does tend to freeze when you dont expect it because the weather is so unpredictable. Im also going to put reflective insulation with flash tape to insulate the bottom of the motorhome to help keep it warm as well. Thought those might be helpful.
Something I wanted to point out I noticed a lot of bad reviews on these heated garden hoses. people saying they stopped working against the reviews I ended up purchasing one. anyways shortly after the hose froze up and did not heat up it did not make sense to me because it is a simple design it is essentially a heating element down the hose .so I grew suspicious that the orange thermostat was faulty correct I was the thermostat was bad I simply cut off the thermostat and hardwired it obviously it will not be temperature regulated now but it guarantees to work
I use a little different method, but it saves me $$$ & space of a 2nd hose to carry. At night I drain the hose & disconnect. I disconnect the filter & regulator and place them in my heated water station. First thing in the morning I take a tea kettle with hot water and pour it over the hose bib. Re-connect all back up & good to go until late at night again.Just part of my 5 minute walk around I do every night before we turn out the lights and hit the sack. Last Winter at a State CG I was one of the very few who still had running water after a couple of days.
Good idea. Thanks
I ran into cold weather camping in Utah recently. I filled the fresh water tank and put the hose away. I have a belly panel so my tanks are somewhat protected. I turned on the incandescent lights in the storage area and opened a panel to where the water pump sits. I had no problems. Getting the ice and snow removed from my slide was another story!
Jared, thank you for the info. With winter approaching and temps dropping, we've been trying to weigh or options for fresh water. Your video was fantastic and extremely informative as your videos usually are. Thanks man!
My wife and I were just talking about heated hoses this year - we didn't have one last year - and then your video popped up!
Thanks for the tips!
From a full-time RVer.
Very thoroughly covered ! I have one thing to add; For DIY, there is only one RV hose I know of that is actually rated by the mfr for use with heat tape, and that is _Ebonyline_ , which is now marketed by _Valterra_ . Most other reinforced RV hoses have specific warnings on the instructions specifying unsafe for use with heat tape.
Thanks, good to know!
Thank you so much. I haven't bought hoses or heat tape yet. It's.summer here. But I'm budgeting for winter and I'm like all of these say not to use with heat tape. Which I'm sure is for safety but I'd rather not melt my first hose lol so I found ebony line and that will work for me. Thank you for this comment it was super helpful.
Just want to thank you for hours of information that you have provided. We are new to this experience and had our first on the road excursion. Flawless due to your suggestions. Thank you so much.
I couldn't imagine why a heated cable would fail if you weren't rough with it and set it up correctly. But great video! Always appreciate your videos and the time you spend really researching and giving your honest opinion.
Picked up a couple hoses before my winter trip. But Looking at my fellow RV'rs I think i could have got by without the purchase. But I have them now, and they worked just fine.
Jfi, I have the valterra heated hoses (25 & 50ft), they specifically say you cannot connect the hoses together to extend the length. Such that you cannot buy two 25ft hoses and expect them to create a 50ft hose, or take a 25ft and connect it to the 50ft and create a 75ft hose. Cheers 🍻
Just saw the video today. So sad, I needed this two weeks ago when I purchased a heated hose prior to our trip from S CA to the Nashville TN area. We encountered snow and temps in the low 20s. I didn’t test or connect the heated hose in advance. Shame on me. My RV doesn’t have a 120v outlet near the water bay. I had an extension cord but it didn’t have a three prong adapter. So I couldn’t use the heated hose. I also didn’t think about putting the water pressure regulator in the water bay. Thanks for that tip. I will be adding a 120v outlet in the future!
We were just thinking about this. Perfect timing . Awesome video.
I could have stopped the video when you mentioned "head to a warmer climate". But I like to see you do all the work. Thanks!
Permanent go with DYI and go the extra mile insulating it.. If your moving around then just buy a pre made. That's my 2 cents,
Thank you SO much for this video! We bought a heated waterhose in Dec. 2020, which just sprang 2 leaks. We 'repaired' those with butyl tape and All weather Gorilla tape today. Only to cause a new fairly gushing leak in another spot. Sooo, we've been going back and forth about which way to go on a new hose all day. Temps freezing soon. This was very helpful in our decision making.
What brand did you have?
I was just looking into this right before I saw your video. Thank you for the great advice and suggestions!
I just used both a heat cable and heater hose. But the cable one the regulator and filter.
Great info - thanks!! In the middle of getting my Airstream set up for wintering in high desert New Mexico
We love our bought heated hose. I also keep heated tape just in case I need it. We had to heat the spigot at a campground once because they did not have one. Funny thing, we were the only camper that had running water...
Thanks for the videos... I pick up useful information with each episode. I plan to use your first suggested option, my wheels!
Great video, very helpful for Ice road camping... go south follow the ducks and geese 😂👍🇺🇸
If your in a four season camper, could you just fill the tank and disconnect the hose and drain?
Makes my mind freeze watching this fix. I’m not a mechanical person.
Hi Jared! Great videos! I need to know how to insulate the water hydrant pipe in my RV park. Nobody is making videos on this. It doesn't seem to matter what I wrap it with, I can't get anything but frozen water out of it. My expensive RV spot is worthless right now and I'm having to stay in a hotel. The temps are from 10F to 20F at night and 50F in the daytime.
I can't go to a warmer climate because I'm here visiting a sick elderly relative. I'm here for the duration of her illness.
My heated water hose did great at the other noisy park, but I relocated to this one which is much quieter. This place doesn't provide water hydrant socks or any sort of insulation. That's what I'd like to see a video on. The only thing I can find are water faucet videos.
@all about RV's.
I used flexible foam insulation on my DIY. I should have purchased a better hose as it eventually ballooned and failed after 8 years of light use.
I just fill my fresh water tank every couple days..spent time at a RV park that didn't allow water hook ups in freezing weather..
What I was confused about was the heat tape (DIY) labels all say "for us on plastic & metal pipes" .. but my guess is it's fine on a good garden hose.
Great infi as always Jared
Your videos are always helpful!
oh how i needed to watch and hear this, big horn fifth wheel temporary residence after house fire, south east Ontario (possible -30C), the idea of eves trough cable hit me. I am a carpenter/ roofer.. I've seen them work real time as I work beside them. Thinking I could also do my tanks and entire floor maybe. I run off of 12000 watt gene, gas/propane, 3000 watt inverter and two 280 amp/hr lithium batteries, 3000 watt pure sine wave inverter. Two 420lbs propane tanks. Solar panels soon. Should I look for 12volts heat cable, besides the heat cable I will vertically skirt the RV with stick frame structure that uses 1 1/2" (R9) double foilback ridged insulation. I would love your advice, in any form or fashion. (Edit) Made this comment before watching hole video.Thankyou for what you do. Still appreciate your advice or links to your advice. Again, thankyou!
I enjoy watching your rv videos. I am installing self regulating heat tape to my outdoor water source, then on the hose.
My question is do you cover the thermostat on the heat cable with insulation or leave the thermostat exposed?
I have watch several videos. Some say don't cover the thermostat other say it is ok the wrap the thermostat with insulation. What is your thoughts. Thanks
When you insulated the drain lines do you leave them that way year around?
Great information! Thank you for sharing!
Our underbelly is enclosed. Any ideas
@all about RV's How did you waterproof insulation on pipes underneath your rig from road sludge and moisture?
Great information as usual! Thanks so much!
Thanks for video. Can you join 2 heated hoses?
I called and asked Frost King technical support and they say that you are not SUPPOSED to use those FK heating cables in exterior applications. I understand that there is theory and "real world" as it relates to some products though. Are you saying that you (or people you know) routinely use these outside successfully?
Great video 👏🏼
...living in the N.Sac.Valley, CA, we Do have Some overnight "Hard freezes" during winter ( God only knows what This Winter will be like!) The 5th Wheel I live in has aprx. 40 ft of hose from outlet to inlet, 1/2 on dirt, 1/2 on concrete (Hard on hoses with temps from 100's to freezing!) Do you think the black foam pipe insulation will protect hoses ( hopefully with another outdoor faucet left dripping)? Thanks again!
What if the only plug is on the camper and the plug from the heated hose or the homemade heated hose doesn't reach?
Given the option of outfitting for cold or going where it is warm, well, what can I say.
Diy is not bad if you stay put for a time but if you move every week to a month factory headed hose is better, Diy heated hose does not role up easy at all, factory doesn't role easy but can be done with 3 hands, I recommend factory even if it takes all summer to save up for it will pay for itself over 2 or 3 winters. 7 yrs full timer.
What about filing your fresh water tank and disconnect the hose, when tank is empty fill again. What do you think? Good of bad idea?
Neither good or bad. It’s just another option
If you're in an area with power failures, having some in the tank is a good thing, ( if the tank is adequately protected from freezing).
Great stuff!
Question, why did you guys switch from the camco heated hose to the pirit?
Can the heat tape be used safely on vinyl hose with metal tape as extra wrap under it?
Using a heated hose (regardless of DIY or purchased) should you still leave your faucet on a drip to keep water moving? Thanks
We do when we drop into single digits
@@AllAboutRVs thank you
Hey Jared, can you recommend something to insulate my 4in PVC plumbing septic hose? We are stationary. I didn't think I could use regular insulation as it can't get wet.
What temperature can the diy hose go down to before freezing?
my hose goes to -27 c when winter temps reached -30 i had to insolate it
Thank you
How far is the thermostat from the end of the heat cable?
We are doing any winter camping. It would get rather cold for now, we have a hybrid. 😀 Good video though. Just wondering, are you not using the Jared Gillis channel anymore?
At what temperature should you start worrying about heating your hoses and all this, thank you.
Around 32 degrees and lower
A simple tip if you don't want to have to worry about heating anything just leave the faucet running a little bit inside the RV but obviously make sure it will not fill up the gray tank moving water cannot freeze
Good information
On the DYI hose heater is there a thermostat on there or you just plug and unplug as needed?
It has a thermostat and turns on as needed
What do you do to those short stubs of exposed waterlines for the low point drain? With them pointing straight down how would you attach insulation?
If there are drain valves above floor level, no insulation. If they are plugged at ends, use 3/4" or 1" ID 1/2 wall thickness foam pipe insulation attached with 12" nylon wire ties.
@@Robnord1 no heat tape needed for those? Won't they freeze without heat tape like water hose?
@@skiphudson8321 If you're concerned about them, maybe two layers of insulation would be good, however in 24 years doing RV repairs I've never had a case of damaged seasonal drains except on rigs left vacant for the winter with water in the pipes. Our lows never get below about 17° here. If you're somewhere colder you may need a different strategy.
@@Robnord1 we usually get some subzeros here in Indiana. Thanks for your time. :)
Ok, on the DIY option, in the instructions it says it is "NOT" for use on a "hose" it is for PVC or metal pipes only!
Yes I have seen that but after months of using it with heat cable and the white hose I saw no negative effects after full time use. The hose actually gets hotter in the summer from sitting in the sun.
I wouldn't worry about it unless you are using it as a drinking hose
Well I am using it on my drinking hose.
@@TheTruthPlease100 the reason I say that is because the plastic could Leach from the hose if it is not meant to be heated up if you are drinking from it I would almost recommend purchasing a heated garden hose
One that is drink safe
@1:44: "But we haven't had any of that [failure] in any of these systems...." Should really read: "But we haven't had any of that [failure] in any of these systems, YET!" Almost guarantee that the PIRIT hose won't last more than two, three winters! AMAZON consistently has 30% 1-Star ratings for premature failure of the PIRIT hoses.
I had a failure with the pirate heated hose but a lot of people don't understand it's not the hose it is the thermostat at the end it just does not make contact completing the current if you bypass that thermostat it works perfect
@@iair-conditiontheoutsideai3076 Aye, that's definitely a good place to start looking/troubleshooting, as it would be a relatively easy fix. I just pulled apart one of our failed PIRIT hoses, and I was hopeful that it would only be the thermostat, but alas, the thermostat was working perfectly; it was the heating wire itself that was embedded in the hose.
@@yesterdayfarm5273 just wanted to clarify you cut off that orange thermostat and put the two wires together and put a wire nut over it
@@iair-conditiontheoutsideai3076 Yes, that's exactly what I did first. I was pretty confident that it was just a faulty thermostat, so i first cut it off, and connected the two wires together.....NOTHING. I even went as far as test the cut-off thermostat, by alternating putting it in snow and heating it up afterward and testing continuity: it worked flawlessly.
Thanks for the follow-up message (I appreciate it), and I am pleased that you got it working again. I have a second (longer) PIRIT hose that's also not working anymore, and will do the same (cutting the thermostat off): maybe I will get lucky and on that one it IS the thermostat that's broken, as I still have the other, working one. Cheers.
@@yesterdayfarm5273 I would contact the person you got it from and tell them that I actually ended up getting mine for free because I complained about it freezing up when it should have turned on
how come you don’t say where you are?
...I use a solar-heated hose myself.
How you made that work?
There is no such thing