Dude I wish everyone had the same brisk, get-to-the-point pace. No tedious intro with music, no rambling. Just instructions. Good ones, and thorough. Thank you.
I watched this video a few times, went to the store, came home, followed the steps as you laid them out and Im happy to report I just soldered 5 joints for the first time in my life... I had my wife turn on the water and I watched in absolute amazement as there wasn’t so much as a drip much less multiple high pressure geysers! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge on this topic!! Such amazing content you’re providing! Keep it up!!!
@@Got2Learn I'm now looking for reasons to solder things lol :) Thanks again for making this topic so approachable for people who have zero experience!
Holy actual fuck, this is probably the epitome of a perfect tutorial video. Straight forward, no dead air, no explaining things that aren't related to the topic, and no advertising. It's just blunt explanation. Thank you for this.
Straight to the point...I have a house that that just turned 113 years old...All the water lines are copper....You saved me a ton of $$ appreciate very much, thank you....
Because Got2Learn hasnt done all of them. I'm a professional hvacr technician and even we need refreshing every now and then. I only trust a few sources on youtube for my quality of tradesmanship and Got2Learn is one of them. Thank you.
Some of these guys love to hear themselves talk. My daughter, learning all aspects of ranching skills from me really hates when I over-explain things. I think about what she needs to know, say it, show it and shut the hell up. She never fails with that technique. Just saying.
37 year old mom here. Removing and installing a water heater for the first time tomorrow. This video is right to the point clear and concise. Can’t thank you enough for making this!!!!!
Update: the water heater installation was successful all across the board, not one leak. Proud of myself. Couldn’t have done it without this video! Hope some other moms out there realize they can do this too, and it’s not impossible. I certainly couldn’t afford to pay someone to install it for me, so I figured I may as well learn how to do it.
I just wanted to say thanks! We hired a so called plumber to come repair a leak in our wall. I told him I wanted to go back with copper pipe. He went and purchased $200 in shark bite fittings and the leak was even worse. Today I took all of that out and used your videos to repair the way I wanted it. The soldered joints don’t look that good but are holding strong. Again, thank you for the videos.
Great video ! With exactly zero soldering experience, and watching this video twice, I made a plumbing repair at my new house on the first try. Thanks for the great explanations on how and why to do it right.
I literally just watched this and successfully soldered copper pipe into a steel housing fora coolant line that goes on an industrial blade grinder for our CNC machines!! THANK YOU!!
Every time I solder copper pipes I refer back to your videos. I can’t thank you enough for these. One of your tips almost brought a tear (of joy) to my eye this morning. Was exactly what I was looking for and saved me hours of frustration. Thank you thank you thank you!
Great video for DIY guy like me who has never soldered copper pipes before. Straight to the point: correct supplies and instructions needed to do the job correctly the first time!
Incredible video, I know it’s five years later but I haven’t done any soldering since my HVAC days and just wanted to check to make sure nothing has changed. I clicked on your video and incredible instructional. Soldering is not hard because it’s one of the few things that if you don’t do it right, you can come back and touch it up during the inspection phase. And the only thing that I would add, it’s not a critique, either, by yourself a heat resistant cloth that they sell in 9 x 12 sections at your local big box store so you’re less afraid of catching something on fire. The problem I see most with improper or not to standard solder joints as that people are hesitant to put the heat on it or put too much heat on it, but that’s another topic. the heat resistant matting really gives your subconscious a break from thinking everything is gonna catch on fire
HUGE help! I've been a DIY home owner for a couple decades now. I've done a fair amount of plumbing jobs but it was always a dread! Since I've watched your stuff for my latest bath remodel, my sweating skills have improved 10 fold! I wish youtube and you were around 20 years ago the first time I did this bath!
Best tutorial for a DIY I think I've ever come across. First time, 3 successful joints, no leaks. Thanks so much, saved me a lot of trouble and a friend of mine a lot of gas not having to come help me =P
You forgot to ream or deburr or bevel the end of the pipe that’s going into the fitting, from the inside. You also flux that lip after reaming/deburring/beveling. The reaming helps prevent turbulance inside the pipe which helps the water flow and corrosion. The flux on the tip helps for better penetration and seal. Everything else is spot on. Nice video.
As a plumber I say you did a great job explaining this! A bit overheated, but I've seen worse. This is similar to the method described in the UPC training manual and for basic homeowner repair will suffice. Cool trick with the fitting brush! 2 imperative things weren't mentioned 1- Reaming the pipe, unreamed pipe will cause excess turbulence resulting in premature wear which over time will show itself in the form of a leak. 2 - I cannot emphasize this enough! Make sure there is no water remaining in the line!!! I don't care how well you prep the pipe, it will seem like you're soldering without flux and the quality of the joint will reflect that ( you'll be lucky if you do make a joint and even luckier if it stands even the shortest test of time.) Shut off the supply to the house and open both the lowest and highest fixtures to drain the system. Sometimes house shut offs don't hold and you have to turn the meter off. In my experience the meter doesn't entirely shut off and you have to disconnect it (worst case). If you're soldering a vertical section with trapped water, use a straw or piece of pipe smaller in diameter with your thumb over the top to extract the water.
Kyle you are a gentleman and a true craftsman by your response. The only thing I saw slightly off was the reaming not done and a little over heated but a solid video for those who are trying to fix it themselves for the first time.i use a piece of plastic tubing to suck out water if there is a leak . I agree that shutting the ball valve on the meter is good info and I've had to remove one or two in my thirty years in the trade.oh yeah I always use Oatey number 5 flux, the other crap (the water soluble stuff) sucks everything but solder. Lol.
I work commercial plumbing in Houston, TX. I have never once heard of any plumber call copper pipe "tubing." I'm sure it is tubing, but if you say copper tubing around us, we'll just look at you with a crazy expression on our faces. same for pipe dope, which is really thread sealant, but if you say anything other than pipe dope, well just look at you crazy again lol. Same for channel locks which is an actual brand of pliers. You could have Douglas Pliers, Irwin Vise Grip Pliers, etc., but if you call them anything else other than channel locks we'll just look at you crazy again. and the list goes on and on. So please excuse our plumber's terminology.
Around 10PM here in Louisanna and I have water to my house now after having my water heater pipe burst due to the recent cold snap down here. I couldn't have done it without your excellent tutorial. Thank you so much.
I know that my project was pretty simple because everything was new, but after watching this, I sweated 32 connections in 3/4” copper with no leaks! I only had two that I had to re-flux and re-heat, and I only got one blister from touching a hot pipe. Thanks for a killer tutorial!!!!!
I watched this video a few times, went to the store, came home, followed the steps as you laid them out and Im happy to report I just soldered 5 joints for the first time in my life... I had my wife turn on the water and I watched in absolute amazement as there wasn’t so much as a drip much less multiple high pressure geysers!
Here I am August 2023 and wanted to share & say Thank You. Your video for copper pipe soldering is fantastic;; clear, concise, great sequence and to the point for anyone who wants to learn and become well versed working with copper for plumbing! I also love it for my copper sculpture projects to turn out nice clean, professional (beginner projects). Thank You. JJ
I’ve been plumbing for over 20 years and I have to say, I am glad you didn’t go over the whole “solder Quantity to size ratio” BS! That rule has gotten quite a few people out the door at my company For way too many leaks.
I've been practicing soldering just to expand my skillsets around the house, I followed this video and everything is going great. Thanks for the video!
Watched this video along with your other ones about two years ago just because. I rewatched a couple of weeks ago again to refresh my memory and just finished repiping my house with copper. No leaks at all. Cheers
I love how you explain the process so clearly and use great graphics to help see the real effects of properly soldered and not-well-done joints! I feel confident that I can do it myself!
I was taught by a “handyman” how to sweat pipe. The other day, I attempted my first copper pipe sweat for a shower and it turned out so ugly and burnt, I did not feel good about it, even though it didn’t leak. I turned to UA-cam that night and found this video. The next day, I re-sweat the pipe and another one for a second shower and I was completely confident and comfortable. It was night and day difference. No joke, my copper sweating looks dang near professional. Thank you thank you thank you for this tutorial! Absolutely perfect!
I've always had a bit of a mental block with soldering both pipes and wires, and my goal this year is to learn how to do it. In the past month I've learned a lot about soldering wires, and now with your video I can start working on soldering pipe.
I have soldered before but now I am trying to fix a pipe in my house and you are soo helpful. I had no clue about starting at the bottom and your tutorial was just so straight to the point it was probably the best tutorial I have ever seen. Thankyou.
I watched a couple of your videos and have just finished 60 solder joints with no leaks. Thanks so much. Great quality content and I like your straight to the point style.
Nice video. I really appreciate you getting right to the point and not forcing viewers to watch opening packages and talk about how many bristles are on your flux brush etc...lol Great job.
Great informative video. Explanation was clear and thankfully very brief. Allot of people seem to enjoy hearing themselves explain things over and over again. Before you know it there’s a twenty minute video explaining how to do a five minute job. You covered the “does and don’ts” effectively and directly. Thanks and keep up the good work.
Outstanding video! This is how instructional videos should be made. Quick. To the point. Covered the information in adequate detail. And did all of this without any lengthy bullshit introduction or rambling.
Thanks so much @a s, I really appreciate your comment buddy. If you wanna see 2 other good videos on soldering, here they are: #1 ua-cam.com/video/V13EEkeeYfM/v-deo.html #2 ua-cam.com/video/xJodDBC5AwY/v-deo.html
I have soldered joints for years as an amateur DIYer but just heated the pipes any how until I saw how you said to heat the piece that the pipe is going into and the part about heating from the bottom. Greatest advice.
Well Done! Exceptionally well produced video covering the subject thoroughly and professionally without wasting any time. I liked the cutaways and x-ray illustrations to show what goes on inside the joints.
Thanks, got2learn! I just did my very first ever copper pipe project with one Sharkbite fixture and 14 soldered connections. I just pressure tested and no leaks! Couldn’t have done it without you! Thank you!
Thanks! I was having trouble making a repair on my lawn sprinkler system until I watched this video. May you keep teaching the world...all the best to you and your family.
I guess, even with the propane you are on the low side of heat compared to MAP-gas or even to AC/Oxygen as we normally use here in Sweden (thus we don¨t have much solder to choose from - unless we would start to use the BLUE Welller solder one). All depends on the tinning-led you are using (hopefully lead free). I now see that I and most of us here are really bad on using flux, Hope sone one else would give you a more adequate answer on this, than I can (different regions, different techniques) - but capillary forces are globaly - even in AUS, down there :-)
Great video. I've been working with copper for years. It usually goes well. Yesterday I had one 3/4" 90 that would not flow on one end. It was crazy. I pulled and recleaned it many times. It was in a wall open on oneside, but an inch away from the stud. I finally cut the 90 and about 6" of pipe out on each side and soldered it on the bench. The other 20+ joints went well.
Wanted to say thank you. I’ve always shied away from plumbing because I can’t solder. After watching his video I was able to run a new soft water loop halfway around my house and install a water softener. No leaks. Could see the solder went all the way through the joint (capillary action), on the two occasions I had to redo a joint. You’re pretty awesome. Thanks again.
My first soldering project was a 3in reduced to 2in steam return copper exhaust system I designed for a boat I had when I rebuilt a small block. Small block boat engines sound ferocious through copper exhausts! You can get away with soldering up to 3/4in with a propane torch. You really need a MAP torch for any joint that is an inch or larger. Or you are going to spend allot more time trying to achieve an even heat on a larger joint area. The risk of a cold solder spot increases with the larger the joint you are trying to heat.
Thank you for posting this, it helped me a lot! I used to get really frustrated with soldering. After watching your video I went out in the backyard and spent 30 minutes practising on some pipes I just removed. Then went back and successfully finished my bathroom hookup in the crawl space within an hour. Knowledge + Practice = Good Results ~thanks~
Im a certified instructor. ASTM-B828 standard for soldering copper is to heat the pipe first, then the fitting. Other than heating the fitting first, and not mentioning de burring, the video is generally good advice. Always heat the pipe first, then as soon as solder will melt on contact, move heat to the fitting. This ensures the pipe itself will be hot enough to pull the solder in completely. We test joints done in both ways by cutting the fitting down the middle with a band saw then hitting it with a hammer. Majority of all cold spots are from heating fitting first. Read part 2.3.8 www.iapmo.org/2013%20California%20Plumbing%20Code/Appendices/Appendix%20I/IS%203.pdf "Begin heating with the flame perpendicular to the tube on the bottom. The copper tube con- ducts the initial heat into the fitting socket for even distribution of heat in the joint area....... Next, move the flame onto the fitting socket. "
Extremely thorough. Love the accent! Could have added reaming. Still! Giving away the answer so that others can succeed! Very skilled professional. Thank you.
This was so spot on, direct and to the point! I had an outside spigot burst because of the cold weather. Not long after I reconnected the garden hose and turned it on and water was pouring out my garage floor more than the hose. I shut it off, searched for videos on how to solder coper pipe as I have never done this type of repair. Of course several videos showed up and I chose this one because it was only 5 minutes long and not 15-20 minutes or more like many of the others. I followed this video step-by-step, and it worked perfectly. Thank you!!!
Just finished up with “doing it myself” and decided I’d see how it’s actually done Lololol. Surprisingly I’m not having any leaks let but I failed to apply flux on the end of the tubing. I applied the flux after I put the pieces together. Although it’s not leaking now I’m worried that it will in the future. This video gave me some mental notes for the next time I do this. Thank you
Yeah if you only applied flux after you combined your pipes, there's no way you should trust that joint not to leak. You should redo that pipe. Especially if it's inside a wall.
Just use Map gas every time, it's a must for anything thicker than the basic copper pipe. You can heat the pipe from any direction heat does not go up faster than down when you are heating an object, it's not hot air rising (convection) it's heat traveling through an object (conduction in any direction). How can you tell when the pipe is ready for solder? I wait until you see green tinted flames at the tips of the blue flame than try the solder on the opposite side that I am heating this way I know heat traveled all the way through. Also the reason you heat the outside fitting first is because metal expands when heated, so if you heat the outside you create more space for solder to get in, if you heated the inside pipe you would close the gap tight and solder would not flow in as well. All that said if you have a choice go compression fittings or shark bite OR if you can go PEX and you will never look back at copper.
Glad I checked the comments first. I was going to say the same thing about conduction. I hadn’t considered the expansion issue. Learning so much from everyone here. I’m going over my plumbing again before closing up my kitchen reno. Hopefully I will prevent any future problem thanks to all of you.
You would still need some soldering of copper even if using PEX for whatever is existing IF that's the job you are doing. Cut the copper, solder the pex copper adapter
You don't want to see the green tinted flame. When you get to that point you are burning the flux off and starting to burn the copper. The solder is liquid and enters the cavity through capillary action, having more space between the fitting and the pipe isn't really an issue.
Thanks for explaining the actual process of soldering, and how the solder is drawn into the valve. I now feel more comfortable knowing what the goal is, rather than just following instructions.
Never done it, seen it done on jobs dozens of times by many different plumbers, it's been awhile since then, I wanted to be refreshed on the the steps to solder, and Wow, this video is Awesome. This video was very descriptive, with no nonsense, and covered every step.
Proper cleaning and preparation is the key. No dirt, grease, wax, petina etc on the copper. Reaming is also important. Small burrs can cause premature failure in a closed system. Good flux with a clean brush is also very important - ive seen welds fail due to a fallen off brush bristle. If doing a repair on a wet line remember, water is your enemy. Water will prevent a proper weld. Always remove any water from the lines and dry them thoroughly. When heating a joint always begin to solder at the opposite side of the heat, but also do not overheat the joint. When the joint is hot enough you'll be able to touch the solder to the joint and capillary action will pull it into the entire joint as the flux is flashed off and creates a vacuum draw. Never try to prematurely cool your welded joint unless you know what you're doing (IE: a professional) rapid cooling at the wrong moment will ruin your work. Always dry fit and inspect your connections before you solder them! A piece of warped copper can cause even the most experienced plumber to have a bad day. Most importantly, dont rush your work. Proper cleaning and preparation is the absolute key. It only takes a few seconds to sweat a 1/2" joint, even the sloppiest DIYer will succeed at this if they dedicate to prep prep prep! Old plumbers are old plumbers for a reason, so pay attention to their wisdom! But remember, old trademen have an almost religious approach to their work 😀
Solder is important especially on big piping. Silverbrite is expensive but I'll solder over 100 joints no leaks. That cheap solder 50/50 antimony is junk.
I've watched several times over the years how to solder a pipe joint, but as the 'what' and 'whys' were never really explained I would not have been confident to know I had achieved a good join. You video seems excellent and I am likely going to have a DIY go next time. Thank you.
One point you didn’t mention, heat up one side while touching unrolled solder from opposite side. This way you know the entire circumference reached melting temperature when furthest end melts the solder. It will rapidly suck up all of the melting metal. For copper it is not that critical but for larger brass valves and fittings it is important because takes longer and heat distribution is not that even.
@Got2Learn Thank You for this wonderful video! I had two outdoor faucets that were 24 years old and worn out. One had a broken handle and the other one started leaking… bad!!! I followed Your instructions and after a trip to my local hardware store, I got to work, and bc of Your Pro tips… I was finished in 15 mins. Moment of truth… turned supply on & 😲🙌 Score!!!!! No leaks anywhere and now my wife is convinced I can fix anything!!! 😂 Thanks Again!
I just learned it’s best to first heat the pipe (it will expand a little) and than the ‘joint’ together with ‘the pipe’. The expansion will reduce the air gab (insulator) This way both parts will heat evenly allowing the solder to flow better. Trying to heat the whole joint, both parts ‘at once’ by heating the widest part will not work. The air (insulator) makes the pipe heath not as quick and not at the right temperature. One part to hot (and the other not hot enough) will overheat (burn) the solder.
Absolutely brilliant video, the reason I say it is because I attended a one week intensive plumbing course, i considered it very good but you have packed in even more tips like heating from below and internal brush cleaner in just a 5 minute video, superb and thanks very much.
Good video. Just one thing: the heat will not rise from the bottom up. Warm gas or liquid is lighter and thus rises. Inside a solid conductor heat will spread equally in all directions from the heat source. Still: bottom first is correct.
With Lead Solder is for something that doesn't come in contact with food or water Drain. Without Lead-Free Solder is for something that DOES come in contact with food or water. I got it in that 1/100 Second. LOL
Sometimes it’s nice to see how solder flows What would I know, I’m only an electrician who uses flux core solder, who recently tried to join two pipes with plumbing/lead&flux free solder
As a beginner in soldering, keep making these videos, excellent job, only question is: could you explain how pin whole are created and if there is any tips to check yourself that you soldered the copper pipe correctly just for practice. Connecting is somehow to a hose. Thanks
3:46 When convection is the main carrier of heat, as in a gas or liquid, then the heated fluid rises (because it is less dense). In a solid, conduction carries the heat. It moves in all directions; there is no preference for up.
I had a really hard time today getting my solder to melt. Please make sure there is no water in your pipes when you try to do this soldering! :-) It should only take between 30 seconds and one minute to get the copper to the right temperature before the solder melts. I sat there for 10 minutes heating up the pipe and it never melted because I had some water in the pipe.
Same problem here, turned on the water and the entire fitting just popped off, made sure to get rid of the water the 2nd time around and was so much easier and faster lol
I would say the GOT2LEARN videos are perhaps the best I have ever seen on the internet. Factual, Accurate, Extremely Useful. These videos explain the why, and the real world "how to" in a simple but complete format. If I want to know how to do something, this is my first stop. Salut Pete
Great quick simple with enough details and no fluff. I have done this many times but infrequently so I always like a quick refresher to make sure I am on point. Thanks again
Awesome, here are some other videos that might help you out even more: #1- ua-cam.com/video/xJodDBC5AwY/v-deo.html #2- ua-cam.com/video/lNUAX6mJTlA/v-deo.html #3- ua-cam.com/channels/txLpSnpxNiHAchvCX-4Dsg.htmlvideos?disable_polymer=1
Nice video. Thanks. I read that flux (a form of acid) eats away a very small amount of copper surface to further clean the pieces to be soldered. I too agree with reaming. Copper pipe is solid and cannot be bent. Copper tube can be bent to different form, is the difference. since it was asked by a viewer.
Hashem N actually both can be bent (with a tubing bender). Copper pipe is designated as copper water tube. You may be thinking of soft copper which is copper that is not annealed yet, usually used for refrigeration lines. This can be bent by hand easily.
I'm no professional plumber, but have done some pipe sweating. I found out later after installing copper pipes for my basement bathroom to use the MAPP propane and a triggered igniter as both are worth it's weight in gold. They get the job done faster and more conveniently.
I only need to solder copper once in awhile. Continue to watch your videos just because I enjoy your approach and explanation. Plus it drills it into my head so I don't have to keep going back later to watch videos. Thank you so much for your content and time involved
I noticed you didn't use a Deburring tool me being an amateur is that really necessary? . Also a Hands-Free Solder Heat Shield for $15 would help to protect from torch flames if close to walls or wood studs. Thanks for the video you have a new subscriber and I like the part where you explained we can reheat and add more flux to cover the missed areas. Thanks.
Careful!: At 3:12, it looks like he is heating the ell part RED HOT! He's not; it's just some video editing trick to indicate which part is being heated.
These videos are the reason why I just installed a water heater in a condo and IT DID NOT LEAK. Mind the details and it will work. I had soldered before but not always successful, so I was apprehensive. The mistakes I have made were obvious after watching. Thank you! I had SS flex hoses on hand in case things went south but I didn't need!
Thanks for a clear and thorough overview! What would you recommend doing if I need to extend my tub copper spout to fit a new accessory that is longer than the original? Also, I had the tile replaced so even a standard accessory would not fit. I never tried plumbing before but I like to figure thinks out... thanks!
You might need to unsolder this one and exchange it with a longer one, as if you solder a coupling to extend it for example, it won't fit in the spout, good luck!! 😉
What a great video! You saved me a bundle. So clear and concise with no esoteric plumbing vocabulary. I did some of this years ago but forgot what the difference between flux and solder was. Thank you from California!
One thing you forgot is reaming the inside of the pipe to prevent friction after charging the line. Other then that you’re good it’s also good to use a damp rag or soapy water in a spray bottle then wipe it off with a rag to make sure all the flux is off the solder joint.
Thank for the awesome tutorial, it was my first time soldering copper pipe, I installed a full bathroom at my factory and did all the plumbing myself, soldered about 25 joints, 4 months later and still no leaks! Thank you
Join my plumbing forum for free: got2learn.freeforums.net/
Dude I wish everyone had the same brisk, get-to-the-point pace. No tedious intro with music, no rambling. Just instructions. Good ones, and thorough. Thank you.
😇😇😇👌
🤩
Video helped me and my pipe is down inside a hell hole where only one arm can fit and i still got it done by " a thorough preparation" THANKS!!!
Amen, brother. A LOT of channels with people that LOVE to hear themselves talk…
Amen to that. I have a life to live!
I watched this video a few times, went to the store, came home, followed the steps as you laid them out and Im happy to report I just soldered 5 joints for the first time in my life... I had my wife turn on the water and I watched in absolute amazement as there wasn’t so much as a drip much less multiple high pressure geysers!
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge on this topic!! Such amazing content you’re providing! Keep it up!!!
Awesome work Chris, good job!!
@@Got2Learn I'm now looking for reasons to solder things lol :) Thanks again for making this topic so approachable for people who have zero experience!
Pleasure is all mine ;)
I hope your wife thinks you're the most capable man in the world.
I'm excited to buy copper pipe and practice in my garage
Holy actual fuck, this is probably the epitome of a perfect tutorial video. Straight forward, no dead air, no explaining things that aren't related to the topic, and no advertising. It's just blunt explanation. Thank you for this.
Thank you so much!
AGREED! This was AWESOME!
🙏🙏🙏😉
I wish I could give this video more than one thumb up. Excellent job, thank you very much!
@@NachosElectric 👌👌👌
Straight to the point...I have a house that that just turned 113 years old...All the water lines are copper....You saved me a ton of $$ appreciate very much, thank you....
Why oh why can't every instructional video be this perfect? 10/10!
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Because Got2Learn hasnt done all of them. I'm a professional hvacr technician and even we need refreshing every now and then. I only trust a few sources on youtube for my quality of tradesmanship and Got2Learn is one of them. Thank you.
Some of these guys love to hear themselves talk. My daughter, learning all aspects of ranching skills from me really hates when I over-explain things. I think about what she needs to know, say it, show it and shut the hell up. She never fails with that technique. Just saying.
100%
Literally
37 year old mom here. Removing and installing a water heater for the first time tomorrow. This video is right to the point clear and concise. Can’t thank you enough for making this!!!!!
@@ItsjustmeNBD 🤩🤩🤩
Right!? He's very informative. Great tutorial.
Update: the water heater installation was successful all across the board, not one leak. Proud of myself. Couldn’t have done it without this video! Hope some other moms out there realize they can do this too, and it’s not impossible. I certainly couldn’t afford to pay someone to install it for me, so I figured I may as well learn how to do it.
@@ItsjustmeNBD Good job!!!!
This is literally by far the best video for know how I have ever seen. No horseshit, just straight down to facts. Thumbs up all the way!!
Thanks for the great comment buddy, really appreciate it, i'd love if you can share it that would be awesome :)
I just wanted to say thanks! We hired a so called plumber to come repair a leak in our wall. I told him I wanted to go back with copper pipe. He went and purchased $200 in shark bite fittings and the leak was even worse. Today I took all of that out and used your videos to repair the way I wanted it. The soldered joints don’t look that good but are holding strong. Again, thank you for the videos.
Awesome blackbird, so glad I could help :-)
Great video ! With exactly zero soldering experience, and watching this video twice, I made a plumbing repair at my new house on the first try. Thanks for the great explanations on how and why to do it right.
Your comment made my day :)
I literally just watched this and successfully soldered copper pipe into a steel housing fora coolant line that goes on an industrial blade grinder for our CNC machines!! THANK YOU!!
AWESOMENESS!!!!!
Wow I been working for 3 year in the industry and no one ever explained it as good as you thank you
Glad I was able to help you ;)
You need to work for a real plumber then.....
They never explained it this good bc they don't want you passing them up sorry bastards
@@spikesharp5575 some can do and not know how to teach. Too bad for the guys working for him though.
Every time I solder copper pipes I refer back to your videos. I can’t thank you enough for these. One of your tips almost brought a tear (of joy) to my eye this morning. Was exactly what I was looking for and saved me hours of frustration. Thank you thank you thank you!
Great video for DIY guy like me who has never soldered copper pipes before. Straight to the point: correct supplies and instructions needed to do the job correctly the first time!
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Incredible video, I know it’s five years later but I haven’t done any soldering since my HVAC days and just wanted to check to make sure nothing has changed. I clicked on your video and incredible instructional. Soldering is not hard because it’s one of the few things that if you don’t do it right, you can come back and touch it up during the inspection phase. And the only thing that I would add, it’s not a critique, either, by yourself a heat resistant cloth that they sell in 9 x 12 sections at your local big box store so you’re less afraid of catching something on fire. The problem I see most with improper or not to standard solder joints as that people are hesitant to put the heat on it or put too much heat on it, but that’s another topic. the heat resistant matting really gives your subconscious a break from thinking everything is gonna catch on fire
HUGE help! I've been a DIY home owner for a couple decades now. I've done a fair amount of plumbing jobs but it was always a dread! Since I've watched your stuff for my latest bath remodel, my sweating skills have improved 10 fold! I wish youtube and you were around 20 years ago the first time I did this bath!
Wowwwww awesome man, so happy for you Kenny 🤘🤘🤘
Best tutorial for a DIY I think I've ever come across. First time, 3 successful joints, no leaks. Thanks so much, saved me a lot of trouble and a friend of mine a lot of gas not having to come help me =P
Finally a " How To " video where the guy actually knows what he is talking about.
Great video. excellent camera work, text and delivery. 👍👍👍
Thx a lot buddy, great comment! Please share if you can ;)
You forgot to ream or deburr or bevel the end of the pipe that’s going into the fitting, from the inside. You also flux that lip after reaming/deburring/beveling. The reaming helps prevent turbulance inside the pipe which helps the water flow and corrosion. The flux on the tip helps for better penetration and seal. Everything else is spot on. Nice video.
As a plumber I say you did a great job explaining this! A bit overheated, but I've seen worse. This is similar to the method described in the UPC training manual and for basic homeowner repair will suffice. Cool trick with the fitting brush! 2 imperative things weren't mentioned 1- Reaming the pipe, unreamed pipe will cause excess turbulence resulting in premature wear which over time will show itself in the form of a leak. 2 - I cannot emphasize this enough! Make sure there is no water remaining in the line!!! I don't care how well you prep the pipe, it will seem like you're soldering without flux and the quality of the joint will reflect that ( you'll be lucky if you do make a joint and even luckier if it stands even the shortest test of time.) Shut off the supply to the house and open both the lowest and highest fixtures to drain the system. Sometimes house shut offs don't hold and you have to turn the meter off. In my experience the meter doesn't entirely shut off and you have to disconnect it (worst case). If you're soldering a vertical section with trapped water, use a straw or piece of pipe smaller in diameter with your thumb over the top to extract the water.
+Kyle Fogle Very nice information from an experienced plumber right here, open your ears guys, this guy knows what he's saying :)
Kyle you are a gentleman and a true craftsman by your response. The only thing I saw slightly off was the reaming not done and a little over heated but a solid video for those who are trying to fix it themselves for the first time.i use a piece of plastic tubing to suck out water if there is a leak . I agree that shutting the ball valve on the meter is good info and I've had to remove one or two in my thirty years in the trade.oh yeah I always use Oatey number 5 flux, the other crap (the water soluble stuff) sucks everything but solder. Lol.
Jon Hare Absolutely! We are used to "not" reaming here where I work, it seems to be a lost step, but for everybody else, please ream your pipes ;)
whats the difference bra?>
I work commercial plumbing in Houston, TX. I have never once heard of any plumber call copper pipe "tubing." I'm sure it is tubing, but if you say copper tubing around us, we'll just look at you with a crazy expression on our faces. same for pipe dope, which is really thread sealant, but if you say anything other than pipe dope, well just look at you crazy again lol. Same for channel locks which is an actual brand of pliers. You could have Douglas Pliers, Irwin Vise Grip Pliers, etc., but if you call them anything else other than channel locks we'll just look at you crazy again. and the list goes on and on. So please excuse our plumber's terminology.
finally!!! a video from someone who knows how to solder properly!! most videos never mention heating up the copper, they just melt solder everywhere!!
Around 10PM here in Louisanna and I have water to my house now after having my water heater pipe burst due to the recent cold snap down here. I couldn't have done it without your excellent tutorial. Thank you so much.
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Loved it, thank you! No filler, straight to the point, comprehensive yet concise
I know that my project was pretty simple because everything was new, but after watching this, I sweated 32 connections in 3/4” copper with no leaks!
I only had two that I had to re-flux and re-heat, and I only got one blister from touching a hot pipe.
Thanks for a killer tutorial!!!!!
I watched this video a few times, went to the store, came home, followed the steps as you laid them out and Im happy to report I just soldered 5 joints for the first time in my life... I had my wife turn on the water and I watched in absolute amazement as there wasn’t so much as a drip much less multiple high pressure geysers!
I've been doing this for forty years and This is so well done and to the point it makes me jealous. I don't think I could explain it better.
Very nice comment, thank you P Adler!!
Here I am August 2023 and wanted to share & say Thank You. Your video for copper pipe soldering is fantastic;; clear, concise, great sequence and to the point for anyone who wants to learn and become well versed working with copper for plumbing! I also love it for my copper sculpture projects to turn out nice clean, professional (beginner projects). Thank You. JJ
You are most welcome 🙏 ☺
Thank you! 60+ grandma here wanting to learn to do this. This is the best tutorial I've seen!
🤘🤘🤘
I’ve been plumbing for over 20 years and I have to say, I am glad you didn’t go over the whole “solder Quantity to size ratio” BS! That rule has gotten quite a few people out the door at my company For way too many leaks.
I've been practicing soldering just to expand my skillsets around the house, I followed this video and everything is going great. Thanks for the video!
Great to hear!!!
Watched this video along with your other ones about two years ago just because. I rewatched a couple of weeks ago again to refresh my memory and just finished repiping my house with copper. No leaks at all. Cheers
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I love how you explain the process so clearly and use great graphics to help see the real effects of properly soldered and not-well-done joints! I feel confident that I can do it myself!
You will be able, trust me :)
I was taught by a “handyman” how to sweat pipe. The other day, I attempted my first copper pipe sweat for a shower and it turned out so ugly and burnt, I did not feel good about it, even though it didn’t leak. I turned to UA-cam that night and found this video. The next day, I re-sweat the pipe and another one for a second shower and I was completely confident and comfortable. It was night and day difference. No joke, my copper sweating looks dang near professional. Thank you thank you thank you for this tutorial! Absolutely perfect!
I've always had a bit of a mental block with soldering both pipes and wires, and my goal this year is to learn how to do it. In the past month I've learned a lot about soldering wires, and now with your video I can start working on soldering pipe.
By now you probably have it down to a science!
I have soldered before but now I am trying to fix a pipe in my house and you are soo helpful. I had no clue about starting at the bottom and your tutorial was just so straight to the point it was probably the best tutorial I have ever seen. Thankyou.
I watched a couple of your videos and have just finished 60 solder joints with no leaks. Thanks so much. Great quality content and I like your straight to the point style.
Great to hear that 👌👌👌😇
Nice video. I really appreciate you getting right to the point and not forcing viewers to watch opening packages and talk about how many bristles are on your flux brush etc...lol Great job.
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Great informative video. Explanation was clear and thankfully very brief. Allot of people seem to enjoy hearing themselves explain things over and over again. Before you know it there’s a twenty minute video explaining how to do a five minute job. You covered the “does and don’ts” effectively and directly.
Thanks and keep up the good work.
Great comment, love it!!
Outstanding video! This is how instructional videos should be made.
Quick. To the point. Covered the information in adequate detail. And did all of this without any lengthy bullshit introduction or rambling.
Thanks so much @a s, I really appreciate your comment buddy. If you wanna see 2 other good videos on soldering, here they are:
#1 ua-cam.com/video/V13EEkeeYfM/v-deo.html
#2 ua-cam.com/video/xJodDBC5AwY/v-deo.html
I have soldered joints for years as an amateur DIYer but just heated the pipes any how until I saw how you said to heat the piece that the pipe is going into and the part about heating from the bottom. Greatest advice.
You always prep new fittings because they are shipped with a coating to stop any oxidation before being purchased. So they must be cleaned and sanded.
One key tip is to have no water in the pipes! If there is water there your going to fight getting a join
Here's a video that shows what to do when there is water in the pipes: ua-cam.com/video/lNUAX6mJTlA/v-deo.html&ab_channel=Got2Learn
My god yes. I had to use my shop vac to suck out the water from the lines because it kept coming out when I was about to do it. Worked like a charm. 😎
i always see you commenting at rock music and here too . i always see you XD. Are there many photo alike you?
Bread is helpful
Very important no water in your pipes 👍
Well Done! Exceptionally well produced video covering the subject thoroughly and professionally without wasting any time. I liked the cutaways and x-ray illustrations to show what goes on inside the joints.
Thank you so much for the great comment, a lot of work went into this video, I am glad you enjoyed it ;)
Thanks, got2learn! I just did my very first ever copper pipe project with one Sharkbite fixture and 14 soldered connections. I just pressure tested and no leaks! Couldn’t have done it without you! Thank you!
Awesomeeeeeee!!!!! 🤘🤘🤘🤘
Thanks!
I was having trouble making a repair on my lawn sprinkler system until I watched this video.
May you keep teaching the world...all the best to you and your family.
Such a wonderful comment, these are what keep me going believe it or not ;)
Excellent. I love how concise and well thought out this video is. So tired of long-winded videos which meander towards some unseen destination!
Thanks man, really appreciate it, if you could share it that would make me really happy, thanks David :)))
I guess, even with the propane you are on the low side of heat compared to MAP-gas or even to AC/Oxygen as we normally use here in Sweden (thus we don¨t have much solder to choose from - unless we would start to use the BLUE Welller solder one).
All depends on the tinning-led you are using (hopefully lead free).
I now see that I and most of us here are really bad on using flux,
Hope sone one else would give you a more adequate answer on this, than I can (different regions, different techniques) - but capillary forces are globaly - even in AUS, down there :-)
Great video. I've been working with copper for years. It usually goes well. Yesterday I had one 3/4" 90 that would not flow on one end. It was crazy. I pulled and recleaned it many times. It was in a wall open on oneside, but an inch away from the stud. I finally cut the 90 and about 6" of pipe out on each side and soldered it on the bench. The other 20+ joints went well.
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Wanted to say thank you. I’ve always shied away from plumbing because I can’t solder. After watching his video I was able to run a new soft water loop halfway around my house and install a water softener. No leaks. Could see the solder went all the way through the joint (capillary action), on the two occasions I had to redo a joint. You’re pretty awesome. Thanks again.
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This video legit helped me bullshit my way into convincing everyone at work I have soldered copper pipe before.
Thanks
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😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣
I’m a plumber, I like this video. You explained everything perfectly. It’s the same way I was taught. It’s excellent. Thanks man!
anth0r Thanks for the nice comment anth0r, really appreciate it, have a good one ;)
My first soldering project was a 3in reduced to 2in steam return copper exhaust system I designed for a boat I had when I rebuilt a small block. Small block boat engines sound ferocious through copper exhausts! You can get away with soldering up to 3/4in with a propane torch. You really need a MAP torch for any joint that is an inch or larger. Or you are going to spend allot more time trying to achieve an even heat on a larger joint area. The risk of a cold solder spot increases with the larger the joint you are trying to heat.
Thank you for posting this, it helped me a lot! I used to get really frustrated with soldering. After watching your video I went out in the backyard and spent 30 minutes practising on some pipes I just removed. Then went back and successfully finished my bathroom hookup in the crawl space within an hour. Knowledge + Practice = Good Results ~thanks~
you are welcome :)
I like how you don't pause for people to read text explanations. If they need to, let THEM pause... and the rest of us can continue on fast-paced.👍
Understood!!
Just for this comment we will have to block you .. unacceptable
THANK YOU! You know how to make an instructional video. Efficient and sufficient at the same time. Subscribed. THANK YOU!
I am glad I was able to help you out, thanks for the kind comment my friend, please share around ;)
Kyle I
Im a certified instructor. ASTM-B828 standard for soldering copper is to heat the pipe first, then the fitting. Other than heating the fitting first, and not mentioning de burring, the video is generally good advice. Always heat the pipe first, then as soon as solder will melt on contact, move heat to the fitting. This ensures the pipe itself will be hot enough to pull the solder in completely. We test joints done in both ways by cutting the fitting down the middle with a band saw then hitting it with a hammer. Majority of all cold spots are from heating fitting first.
Read part 2.3.8
www.iapmo.org/2013%20California%20Plumbing%20Code/Appendices/Appendix%20I/IS%203.pdf
"Begin heating with the flame perpendicular to the tube
on the bottom. The copper tube con- ducts the initial
heat into the fitting socket for even distribution of heat
in the joint area.......
Next, move the flame onto the fitting socket. "
Extremely thorough. Love the accent! Could have added reaming. Still! Giving away the answer so that others can succeed! Very skilled professional. Thank you.
My pleasure man, glad you liked it, don't forget to subscribe and share, it helps a lot :)
This was so spot on, direct and to the point! I had an outside spigot burst because of the cold weather. Not long after I reconnected the garden hose and turned it on and water was pouring out my garage floor more than the hose. I shut it off, searched for videos on how to solder coper pipe as I have never done this type of repair. Of course several videos showed up and I chose this one because it was only 5 minutes long and not 15-20 minutes or more like many of the others. I followed this video step-by-step, and it worked perfectly. Thank you!!!
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Just finished up with “doing it myself” and decided I’d see how it’s actually done Lololol. Surprisingly I’m not having any leaks let but I failed to apply flux on the end of the tubing. I applied the flux after I put the pieces together. Although it’s not leaking now I’m worried that it will in the future. This video gave me some mental notes for the next time I do this. Thank you
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Yeah if you only applied flux after you combined your pipes, there's no way you should trust that joint not to leak. You should redo that pipe. Especially if it's inside a wall.
@@hothmobile100 yeah
Just use Map gas every time, it's a must for anything thicker than the basic copper pipe. You can heat the pipe from any direction heat does not go up faster than down when you are heating an object, it's not hot air rising (convection) it's heat traveling through an object (conduction in any direction). How can you tell when the pipe is ready for solder? I wait until you see green tinted flames at the tips of the blue flame than try the solder on the opposite side that I am heating this way I know heat traveled all the way through. Also the reason you heat the outside fitting first is because metal expands when heated, so if you heat the outside you create more space for solder to get in, if you heated the inside pipe you would close the gap tight and solder would not flow in as well.
All that said if you have a choice go compression fittings or shark bite OR if you can go PEX and you will never look back at copper.
this is super useful. especially when to stop heating and apply solder.
not clear about PEX but I am sure youtube has a video on it
Glad I checked the comments first. I was going to say the same thing about conduction. I hadn’t considered the expansion issue. Learning so much from everyone here. I’m going over my plumbing again before closing up my kitchen reno. Hopefully I will prevent any future problem thanks to all of you.
You would still need some soldering of copper even if using PEX for whatever is existing IF that's the job you are doing. Cut the copper, solder the pex copper adapter
Yup
You don't want to see the green tinted flame. When you get to that point you are burning the flux off and starting to burn the copper. The solder is liquid and enters the cavity through capillary action, having more space between the fitting and the pipe isn't really an issue.
Thanks for explaining the actual process of soldering, and how the solder is drawn into the valve. I now feel more comfortable knowing what the goal is, rather than just following instructions.
Glad it helped Matt, that you very much!
Never done it, seen it done on jobs dozens of times by many different plumbers, it's been awhile since then, I wanted to be refreshed on the the steps to solder, and Wow, this video is Awesome. This video was very descriptive, with no nonsense, and covered every step.
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Thanks, Got2Learn!! This was a great refresher on soldering. I'll be doing a few joints tonight!
:)
DO the joints after the soldering!
Proper cleaning and preparation is the key. No dirt, grease, wax, petina etc on the copper.
Reaming is also important. Small burrs can cause premature failure in a closed system.
Good flux with a clean brush is also very important - ive seen welds fail due to a fallen off brush bristle.
If doing a repair on a wet line remember, water is your enemy. Water will prevent a proper weld. Always remove any water from the lines and dry them thoroughly.
When heating a joint always begin to solder at the opposite side of the heat, but also do not overheat the joint. When the joint is hot enough you'll be able to touch the solder to the joint and capillary action will pull it into the entire joint as the flux is flashed off and creates a vacuum draw.
Never try to prematurely cool your welded joint unless you know what you're doing (IE: a professional) rapid cooling at the wrong moment will ruin your work.
Always dry fit and inspect your connections before you solder them! A piece of warped copper can cause even the most experienced plumber to have a bad day.
Most importantly, dont rush your work. Proper cleaning and preparation is the absolute key. It only takes a few seconds to sweat a 1/2" joint, even the sloppiest DIYer will succeed at this if they dedicate to prep prep prep!
Old plumbers are old plumbers for a reason, so pay attention to their wisdom! But remember, old trademen have an almost religious approach to their work 😀
Wow, great comment...so great it's going on top of the list, thank you for your positive input sir, very much appreciated!
@@Got2Learn Thanks mate! Just discovered your channel today and my hats off for the great content you produce. Cheers.
Very heart-warming, thank you so much Leiron, more vids to come!
i liked your explanations,thanks for sharing.
Solder is important especially on big piping. Silverbrite is expensive but I'll solder over 100 joints no leaks. That cheap solder 50/50 antimony is junk.
A big thumbs up. All info clear and complete.
Thanks a bunch ;)
I've watched several times over the years how to solder a pipe joint, but as the 'what' and 'whys' were never really explained I would not have been confident to know I had achieved a good join. You video seems excellent and I am likely going to have a DIY go next time. Thank you.
very nice. well done. simple and to the point. not all videos are are straight to the point. thx
Thanks a lot, yeah I tend to cut out the bs ;)
Brilliant - clear, simple and to the point. Just what I needed to know! Thanks for making it.
One point you didn’t mention, heat up one side while touching unrolled solder from opposite side. This way you know the entire circumference reached melting temperature when furthest end melts the solder. It will rapidly suck up all of the melting metal. For copper it is not that critical but for larger brass valves and fittings it is important because takes longer and heat distribution is not that even.
Good point, thanks!
@Got2Learn Thank You for this wonderful video! I had two outdoor faucets that were 24 years old and worn out. One had a broken handle and the other one started leaking… bad!!! I followed Your instructions and after a trip to my local hardware store, I got to work, and bc of Your Pro tips… I was finished in 15 mins. Moment of truth… turned supply on & 😲🙌 Score!!!!!
No leaks anywhere and now my wife is convinced I can fix anything!!! 😂
Thanks Again!
Love hearing this!!! Good job 👌👌👌
Good stuff.. 💯 didn’t even have to look at other videos. All questions answered. 👍
Glad to hear it! Thanks @Robot Robot
Right? Thank god this was the first video to pop up in my search. It's perfection!
This is a good help. I’m glad I looked it up instead of just trying to figure it out myself
;)
I felt the same way glad I looked it up,it looks easier than I expected.
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I just learned it’s best to first heat the pipe (it will expand a little) and than the ‘joint’ together with ‘the pipe’. The expansion will reduce the air gab (insulator) This way both parts will heat evenly allowing the solder to flow better.
Trying to heat the whole joint, both parts ‘at once’ by heating the widest part will not work. The air (insulator) makes the pipe heath not as quick and not at the right temperature. One part to hot (and the other not hot enough) will overheat (burn) the solder.
I explain this in this video right here, check it out: ua-cam.com/video/xJodDBC5AwY/v-deo.html
Absolutely brilliant video, the reason I say it is because I attended a one week intensive plumbing course, i considered it very good but you have packed in even more tips like heating from below and internal brush cleaner in just a 5 minute video, superb and thanks very much.
That's so cool, thanks for your comment!!!
Apply the solder opposite of the heat source for the most effective way for the solder to wick into the joint.
True, solder will instantly get attracted to the hottest point, which is where the torch is aimed at.
Good video. Just one thing: the heat will not rise from the bottom up. Warm gas or liquid is lighter and thus rises. Inside a solid conductor heat will spread equally in all directions from the heat source. Still: bottom first is correct.
@Paul Goodier explain, please.
Nice video. One comment. When you are explaining something like "with or without," film it for longer than 1/100 of a second please.
With Lead Solder is for something that doesn't come in contact with food or water Drain.
Without Lead-Free Solder is for something that DOES come in contact with food or water.
I got it in that 1/100 Second. LOL
stop nit picking ass-hole
How about pausing the video genius
Sometimes it’s nice to see how solder flows
What would I know, I’m only an electrician who uses flux core solder, who recently tried to join two pipes with plumbing/lead&flux free solder
Right. I saw that.(or almost saw that)
This weekend was my first time soldering. Thanks to this video I soldered 5 joints good joints - no failures, no redo's. Thanks
Excellent!
Thank you, don't forget to share, it really helps the channel!
As a beginner in soldering, keep making these videos, excellent job, only question is: could you explain how pin whole are created and if there is any tips to check yourself that you soldered the copper pipe correctly just for practice. Connecting is somehow to a hose. Thanks
Most likely from too much heat. You’re boiling the solder.
Mark Bronson use an air compressor to test it prior to turning the water back on.
@@ace7438 how do you do this?
3:46 When convection is the main carrier of heat, as in a gas or liquid, then the heated fluid rises (because it is less dense). In a solid, conduction carries the heat. It moves in all directions; there is no preference for up.
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I had a really hard time today getting my solder to melt. Please make sure there is no water in your pipes when you try to do this soldering! :-)
It should only take between 30 seconds and one minute to get the copper to the right temperature before the solder melts. I sat there for 10 minutes heating up the pipe and it never melted because I had some water in the pipe.
Same problem here, turned on the water and the entire fitting just popped off, made sure to get rid of the water the 2nd time around and was so much easier and faster lol
I would say the GOT2LEARN videos are perhaps the best I have ever seen on the internet. Factual, Accurate, Extremely Useful. These videos explain the why, and the real world "how to" in a simple but complete format. If I want to know how to do something, this is my first stop. Salut Pete
@@StudentLogon very nice comment thank you so much!!
Learned this in the 10th grade. Man I loved building trades in high school!
Wish my high school had those types of classes
I'm literally in 10th grade rn. In class😂 and ge gave us this video to watch and summarize. So same😂
An idea for a video if you don’t have one already: How to create or move a exterior tap for a garden hose.
Done: ua-cam.com/video/Qhw5_t3DIoA/v-deo.html
And then clean the joints with WD40 to keep the flux from corroding or turning all green
Great quick simple with enough details and no fluff. I have done this many times but infrequently so I always like a quick refresher to make sure I am on point. Thanks again
Glad it helped!
You are the man! I was having some trouble with this task before I watched this. Thank you!
Awesome, here are some other videos that might help you out even more:
#1- ua-cam.com/video/xJodDBC5AwY/v-deo.html
#2- ua-cam.com/video/lNUAX6mJTlA/v-deo.html
#3- ua-cam.com/channels/txLpSnpxNiHAchvCX-4Dsg.htmlvideos?disable_polymer=1
Nice video. Thanks.
I read that flux (a form of acid) eats away a very small amount of copper surface to further clean the pieces to be soldered. I too agree with reaming. Copper pipe is solid and cannot be bent. Copper tube can be bent to different form, is the difference. since it was asked by a viewer.
Hashem N actually both can be bent (with a tubing bender). Copper pipe is designated as copper water tube. You may be thinking of soft copper which is copper that is not annealed yet, usually used for refrigeration lines. This can be bent by hand easily.
I'm no professional plumber, but have done some pipe sweating. I found out later after installing copper pipes for my basement bathroom to use the MAPP propane and a triggered igniter as both are worth it's weight in gold. They get the job done faster and more conveniently.
I only need to solder copper once in awhile. Continue to watch your videos just because I enjoy your approach and explanation. Plus it drills it into my head so I don't have to keep going back later to watch videos. Thank you so much for your content and time involved
I noticed you didn't use a Deburring tool me being an amateur is that really necessary? . Also a Hands-Free Solder Heat Shield for $15 would help to protect from torch flames if close to walls or wood studs. Thanks for the video you have a new subscriber and I like the part where you explained we can reheat and add more flux to cover the missed areas. Thanks.
Careful!: At 3:12, it looks like he is heating the ell part RED HOT! He's not; it's just some video editing trick to indicate which part is being heated.
Thanks ;)
Very complete and informative.....Thanks.
Thanks a lot Tom, please like and share the video if you can it helps keep the channel healthy ;)
Ccc
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These videos are the reason why I just installed a water heater in a condo and IT DID NOT LEAK. Mind the details and it will work. I had soldered before but not always successful, so I was apprehensive. The mistakes I have made were obvious after watching. Thank you! I had SS flex hoses on hand in case things went south but I didn't need!
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Thank you, don't forget to share, it really helps the channel!
Good job. I am from Brazil, in your country you have good tools, in Brazil we do not have It. We are on Stone Age.😟
Ohhh that sucks, get them online ;)
Thanks for a clear and thorough overview! What would you recommend doing if I need to extend my tub copper spout to fit a new accessory that is longer than the original? Also, I had the tile replaced so even a standard accessory would not fit. I never tried plumbing before but I like to figure thinks out... thanks!
You might need to unsolder this one and exchange it with a longer one, as if you solder a coupling to extend it for example, it won't fit in the spout, good luck!! 😉
Great Video very Educational Ithink you should do some more back to basics videos
Will do! I want the best for my viewers so I will take your comment into consideration. Do you have any suggestions?
What a great video! You saved me a bundle.
So clear and concise with no esoteric plumbing vocabulary.
I did some of this years ago but forgot what the difference between flux and solder was.
Thank you from California!
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Very well done. Incredible instructional value. Excellent presentation. Thank you!
+Daniel Balfour thanks for the great comnent Daniel ;)
Missing ... Make sure to de-bur the cut pipe! Turbulence will slowly eat away at the pipe (YOU skipped this yourself).
Not to mention a *noisy* flow in the meantime.
I see both you miserable fucks are into trolling make us a video genius or go troll an idiot that shouldn't be giving advice
One thing you forgot is reaming the inside of the pipe to prevent friction after charging the line. Other then that you’re good it’s also good to use a damp rag or soapy water in a spray bottle then wipe it off with a rag to make sure all the flux is off the solder joint.
Lol it's called a rag bro
Thank for the awesome tutorial, it was my first time soldering copper pipe, I installed a full bathroom at my factory and did all the plumbing myself, soldered about 25 joints, 4 months later and still no leaks! Thank you
😉😉😉