@@BlackBearForge I have been a Manual Machinist starting in 1987. And am still in the trade. am trying to figure something out to make a few dollars extra in my retirement. You have been my best instructor in Someting that I think i Might enjoy doing. Just giving credit where credit is due.
Thanks for sharing this hook John. That was some awesome forging on this hook, really looks good. Stay safe around there and keep up the great projects and sharing with all of us. Fred.
My night job i am a machinist, tool maker in the shop i work. Bottoming taps can be easily made by grinding the point off of a standard tap. Just keep a cup of water handy and quench it often so as to not overheat.
Love your works and creativity.i do basically the same with carving . I don’t advertise and are constantly asked to make whatever they want and leave it up to my creativity ( no questions asked) this past year I started back entering NY STATE FAIR AND WON IN MOST ENTREES. BEST OF SHOW ETC. this isn’t an ego trip like your works👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks, that looks great and it is interesting to see how typical shop procedures can be introduced into blacksmithing for better workflow/quality. I just noticed you have a propane heater in the background - I cannot imagine how cold a Colorado winter must be to need a heater in the forge.
I don't need much extra heat when doing larger work in the gas forge, but using the induction forge doesn't do much to heat the shop. Especially since the back door fell off the hinges a few months ago. Hopefully I can get a new door built before too long.
Thanks John!!! Gonna make another hook later today myself, just snowed here in Kentucky so I gotta get the shop stove going first Lol just intime to watch this! 😂👍
Diagonal hammer I love saving stepping further around, save time getting around the anvil so win win don't understand why we don't see them most often Thanks John
Thanks for sharing your expertise on the video.👍 Nice job on the hook and especially the gumdrop accoutrement. 😎💯 Perhaps using an impact socket to forge some flats (heavy-task hook/gumdrop bolt) or a chisel to make a slot(s) would not take away from the gumdrop's overall aesthetic. It may also provide a tool tightening ability on a larger heavy-task hook with a heavier gumdrop bolt vs requiring the use of a padded material between the gumdrop and pliers/v-grips.🤔
an alternative but same look would be to use or make a bathroom mirror type screw that has an internal thread within the head and shank that can then accept the 'gumdrop' with threaded stud
For the “gumdrop” knob as you called it, I have always just drilled a hole in the knob piece. Then taken my mounting bolt and cut a plus sign or 3 lines or whatever into the head. then into the knob hole pack some of that metal putty stuff you can get at any auto parts store; the stuff that comes in a tube and you kneed it like dough to activate it, then push the bolt head up into it. Note you wanna drill bigger than whatever you’re shoving in there so air has somewhere two go, also it helps to cut the actual head off of the lag bolt or whatever you are using to mount with if it’s too big. But you’ll want to first run a lag bolt into whatever you are mounting to, otherwise on the knob piece you’ll want to drill a hole through one side and put a roll pin loosely in that hole so you can get a boxed end wrench to catch there and allow you to turn the knob bolt through the stud or post you are mounting to, just leave it hole facing down and remove roll pin when you’ve got it tight up to the wall or post. And then you can plug that hole with some beeswax mixed with stain if you’re that picky about the aesthetics or if the hook or shelf bracket or whatever it mounted high enough that you’ll see there is a void in your knob. I definitely would avoid having to run that thing in using pliers because it ruins the blackened finish as you’ll mar up the metal with the teeth from a pair of vice grips. Alternatively, at the base of the knob where it flushes up to the piece being mounted, you can file in two discrete flats parallel on opposing sides til a wrench can fit on it to run the bolt in. Cheers!
I've never bought a bought a small diameter (#10 and down) bottoming tap. Just break a normal taper (or plug) tap off short and grind the end flat, with a slight taper on the first thread.
I wonder...small knife with that dimple in handle...bushcrafters could possibly use the dimple to hold the upper end of the dowel in a bow drill fire starter system when making an ember...
For what you're doing there, it looks like you have plenty of thread engagement into your head. Basic rule for thread depth in steel is, at minimum, depth of thread must be at least equal to overall diameter of thread. i.e. An M10 thread needs to have at least 10mm of thread depth in the fitting. Yes, in a perfect world, having a bottom tap be great but if you have enough depth, even a starting tap is fine. In some cases, it can actually help if the application is like this, where you don't want the thread to come back out if you need to remove the screw from the wall.
On the subject of screws, have you ever gone to the trouble of making your own wood screws? I have looked at the "W.D" "Useful Attachment to Screw Stock Dies (fig 145, page 327 Practical Blacksmithing (four volulmes in one ed) M.T. Richardson) and can't quite get my head around it. It'd be interesting to see your take on such a tool.
@ one way the job is done with full thread and you buy a tap next time you are in town. The other way, the job is done without full thread and you buy a bottoming tap next time you are in town…. 🤷
Anytime you forge a piece of steel you are removing any hardness. If it is a tools steel it needs to be properly hardened and tempered based on the requirements of that particular steel and what the final use it. Most smiths don't buy pre hardened steel in any case.
Sitting in the woods hunting when this video popped up. Now I'm sitting here watching it instead of hunting lolb
That is s brilliant idea for a vise, on its side attached to the Hardy!!!
Sent to me by one of your fellow viewers
This is literally my happy place.
I really like the gumdrop addition, it definitely gives the hook alot more character
Thank you John. Was waiting patiently for your next video. Always great to watch your demonstrations.
Glad you enjoyed it
It's the nice little things like the ball-end screw that add to the beauty of hand made items. Very nice.
Another great hook. I like the gum ball screw.
What an inspiration.. well done!
Amazing job as usual. Thanks for taking us along 👍.
Such a lovely hook, with the added mystery of how it defies gravity. Thank you for sharing!
You are so welcome!
Thank you for another great instructional video. You are still my best teacher. Keep up the great work.
Thanks, will do!
@@BlackBearForge I have been a Manual Machinist starting in 1987. And am still in the trade. am trying to figure something out to make a few dollars extra in my retirement. You have been my best instructor in Someting that I think i Might enjoy doing. Just giving credit where credit is due.
Thanks for sharing this hook John. That was some awesome forging on this hook, really looks good. Stay safe around there and keep up the great projects and sharing with all of us. Fred.
Thanks John!
Happy Holidays to you
Happy holidays!
If you have another tap the same size it's easy to make the bottoming tap all you do is grind the taper off of the end
And...another great video...as usual! Thanks John!
My pleasure!
Very cool build.
Thanks, John. Loved the hook. I had to go back several times to see that the stud had machine threads on one end and screw threads on the other.
Another excellent video sir. The gumdrop gives the hook that much more character.
Thanks for another great video.
thanks..
..Black Art Forge..
Thanks John. I missed the “Hook of the Week.” I will be giving this one a shot tomorrow. This one looks like a winner.
My night job i am a machinist, tool maker in the shop i work. Bottoming taps can be easily made by grinding the point off of a standard tap. Just keep a cup of water handy and quench it often so as to not overheat.
Great video John, thanks for sharing 🙏
Thanks for sharing!!!
Love your works and creativity.i do basically the same with carving . I don’t advertise and are constantly asked to make whatever they want and leave it up to my creativity ( no questions asked) this past year I started back entering NY STATE FAIR AND WON IN MOST ENTREES. BEST OF SHOW ETC. this isn’t an ego trip like your works👍👍👍👍👍👍
Beautiful piece of work as ever John. Best wishes from Ulster.
Thanks, that looks great and it is interesting to see how typical shop procedures can be introduced into blacksmithing for better workflow/quality. I just noticed you have a propane heater in the background - I cannot imagine how cold a Colorado winter must be to need a heater in the forge.
I don't need much extra heat when doing larger work in the gas forge, but using the induction forge doesn't do much to heat the shop. Especially since the back door fell off the hinges a few months ago. Hopefully I can get a new door built before too long.
Thanks John!!! Gonna make another hook later today myself, just snowed here in Kentucky so I gotta get the shop stove going first Lol just intime to watch this! 😂👍
Diagonal hammer I love saving stepping further around, save time getting around the anvil so win win don't understand why we don't see them most often
Thanks John
Interesting design, certainly different than what I thought it was going to be, I like the finished piece.
Thank you very much!
Another wonderful video 👏👏
What a great hook. Need more videos just hammer and anvil
Nice hook and great ideas.
Thanks big John
Great job. Thank you 😊
Thank You John
Thanks for sharing your expertise on the video.👍
Nice job on the hook and especially the gumdrop accoutrement. 😎💯
Perhaps using an impact socket to forge some flats (heavy-task hook/gumdrop bolt) or a chisel to make a slot(s) would not take away from the gumdrop's overall aesthetic. It may also provide a tool tightening ability on a larger heavy-task hook with a heavier gumdrop bolt vs requiring the use of a padded material between the gumdrop and pliers/v-grips.🤔
an alternative but same look would be to use or make a bathroom mirror type screw that has an internal thread within the head and shank that can then accept the 'gumdrop' with threaded stud
Very nice!
Nice hook.🙂🙂
Happy Thanksgiving! As always, terrific skills make the task appear easy. It is not. All the best from southern Az. Thank you!
Thanks, Happy Thanksgiving
For the “gumdrop” knob as you called it, I have always just drilled a hole in the knob piece. Then taken my mounting bolt and cut a plus sign or 3 lines or whatever into the head. then into the knob hole pack some of that metal putty stuff you can get at any auto parts store; the stuff that comes in a tube and you kneed it like dough to activate it, then push the bolt head up into it. Note you wanna drill bigger than whatever you’re shoving in there so air has somewhere two go, also it helps to cut the actual head off of the lag bolt or whatever you are using to mount with if it’s too big. But you’ll want to first run a lag bolt into whatever you are mounting to, otherwise on the knob piece you’ll want to drill a hole through one side and put a roll pin loosely in that hole so you can get a boxed end wrench to catch there and allow you to turn the knob bolt through the stud or post you are mounting to, just leave it hole facing down and remove roll pin when you’ve got it tight up to the wall or post. And then you can plug that hole with some beeswax mixed with stain if you’re that picky about the aesthetics or if the hook or shelf bracket or whatever it mounted high enough that you’ll see there is a void in your knob. I definitely would avoid having to run that thing in using pliers because it ruins the blackened finish as you’ll mar up the metal with the teeth from a pair of vice grips. Alternatively, at the base of the knob where it flushes up to the piece being mounted, you can file in two discrete flats parallel on opposing sides til a wrench can fit on it to run the bolt in. Cheers!
Some interesting ideas
I like it John! Hope you had a wonderful Thanksgiving!
Thanks, you too!
Happy Thanksgiving John!
Thanks, Happy Thanksgiving
I've never bought a bought a small diameter (#10 and down) bottoming tap. Just break a normal taper (or plug) tap off short and grind the end flat, with a slight taper on the first thread.
Nice
Very nice. Now it makes me think how could that dimple be used in a small knife handle.
I wonder...small knife with that dimple in handle...bushcrafters could possibly use the dimple to hold the upper end of the dowel in a bow drill fire starter system when making an ember...
Great idea! 💡 My question is: how would you go about screwing this in without marring up the head of the gumdrop screw? 🔥
Place a leather pad around the gum drop and use vise grips.
@ Thank you much! 👍🏻
Another informative and great video, thank you! How did you make that dimpling tool, is it a ball bearing welded to bar stock?
Yes, it is
Woooo!!!
I imagine you could leave a tail on the gumdrop and run it through a die.
For what you're doing there, it looks like you have plenty of thread engagement into your head. Basic rule for thread depth in steel is, at minimum, depth of thread must be at least equal to overall diameter of thread. i.e. An M10 thread needs to have at least 10mm of thread depth in the fitting. Yes, in a perfect world, having a bottom tap be great but if you have enough depth, even a starting tap is fine. In some cases, it can actually help if the application is like this, where you don't want the thread to come back out if you need to remove the screw from the wall.
Hi John. Great work as always.
You have a Hardi Vice. I love the idea, have you made a video about it??
Sent to me by one of your fellow viewers. There is a video on work holding that discuses the idea.
@BlackBearForge thank you
Did you make or purchase the small anvil hardy hole vise, used in the video
Sent to me by one of your fellow viewers
On the subject of screws, have you ever gone to the trouble of making your own wood screws? I have looked at the "W.D" "Useful Attachment to Screw Stock Dies (fig 145, page 327 Practical Blacksmithing (four volulmes in one ed) M.T. Richardson) and can't quite get my head around it. It'd be interesting to see your take on such a tool.
That isn't something I have done
Just grind the end of the tap you have flat- boom- you have a bottoming tap!
Then I would want the taper tap and have to go buy one of those.
@ one way the job is done with full thread and you buy a tap next time you are in town. The other way, the job is done without full thread and you buy a bottoming tap next time you are in town…. 🤷
Love the design! What size ball barring are you using to get the correct round in the hook?
3/4"
Nice, but next time just drill through and weld to the head.
File it off and done!!
Well done 😉
Probably the way to go. The tough part is holding the thing while drilling
I have a question(a new blacksmith) Why do people quench the steel after heating it up to orange when that steel was factroy hardened?
Anytime you forge a piece of steel you are removing any hardness. If it is a tools steel it needs to be properly hardened and tempered based on the requirements of that particular steel and what the final use it. Most smiths don't buy pre hardened steel in any case.
@BlackBearForge Thanks John!
👋🏼
👍✌️⚒️
Very nice original hook but I think you need to make another video to show how to fix it on the wall: the head on the screw is round... No seriously.
Why don't you forge on the horn would save you so much effort and time
Sometimes i do. For this I didn't see enough benefit and the larger diagonal peen hammer draws out quite well.