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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- So - I decided to buy a little Rotary Table!
In this video I use it for the very first time, and I give a flywheel some character.
I used the rotary table on my Sieg SX2P mini mill, and I learnt how to centralise it and make my first cuts.
If you can offer me any help or advice, please leave a comment.
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If you have any private questions/advice you can contact me via email at learningturningmetal@gmail.com
Cheers!
Backing track credits......
Music: (intro) Water Lily by the 126ers - UA-cam Audio Library
WARNING: Metal turning can be dangerous! I am not sure whether the methods I use are established ones, and I do not recommend them.
Please do not copy me without doing your own risk assessments!
You are responsible for your safety - not me!
A few years ago, I was entering the same kind of "modeling job", and realized, putting the indicator parallel to the ground, allows one to observe the needle moving all around the centering. Most indicators have a dovetail on the top of the body, as well as on the end. Thanks for sharing, this engine is taking nice shape!
Hi John I have since found a great method to centre the rotary table. I purchased a 2MT mandrel and turned the opposite end down to 12mm. Put it in a collet chuck, move the spindle down for the taper to engage inside the table, then tighten the table.
Making this little wobbler was a major mistake cos I got hooked!
Cheers
Andrew
Dear Andrew, I watch Ade and a few other machinists and very much enjoy your channel too. Great work and thank you for keeping me entertained. Good luck
and I look forward to more of your work.
Hi Andrew - thanks for the feedback.
Cheers!
Andrew
Very nice job and thanks for sharing!
Looking forward to your next build.
Fill your boots 😉
So inspirational. I now want to add a mini mill to my mini lathe. Brilliant work as always. Thank you Andrew. 👍
Your excitement is infectious ! Thanks for sharing your journey with us.
Ha ha - thanks Chris.
All the best.
Andrew
Tool making, a career for perfectionists!
I know your from Yorkshire but a bit of cutting oil wouldn't go a miss, only pulling you leg, I'm a novice and I've just got a rotory table and am doing my homework before I ruined it. Great watch, thanks
🤣🤣have fun!
Nice job Andrew. Just a tip when using a dial indicator on a true diameter is you first centre the dial into zero on the diameter on the “x” axis then all you have to do is dial in “y” axis at a spot where you can see the dial indicator face and it will be perfect. With practise you see this is so easy to do. Firstly try by eye to get the diameter rotating centrally to the indicator first. Then you won’t need mirrors at all.
Hope you understand what I mean.
Hi Gary - many thanks for the tip - I understand it....
I've since purchased a blank R8 shank and turned the end to fit the taper in the rotary table. Now I just place it in the mill, drop it down into the rotary table taper and then clamp the table.
It works a treat for me and I've not come across any inaccuracies.
Cheers
Andrew
Great video, Looks like, it's a brave new world, and FUN...WOW.......There is no stopping
you now my friend !! Cheers.
Cheers Greg - I think I might have set my sights too high with the Stuart engine - but this hobby has got really interesting!
All the best.
Andrew
You did a great job on the flywheel and the clamp method was also great!
Thanks Johnny!
Good first attempt .
Beware when indexing the rotary table, keep moving in the same direction, to avoid backlash errors.
I don't tend to plunge cut with a four flute end mill as it doesn't have good centre cutting capabilities.
Use a two flute end mill (slot drill )they can plunge cut.
The Recess could have been done on the lathe, just as easily.
ATB Adam
Thanks for the advice Adam. I do have a two flute end mill - Now I know what to use it for!
Cheers
Andrew
I just found your channel recently. I subbed and will catch up. You do a good job and I enjoy learning along with you. Thanks for taking the time to make these.
Thanks mate. I hope you find some of the content useful.
Cheers
Andrew
hello Andrew,
sweet video,keep them coming.i have an idea that i would like to pass on to you.if you placed a .750 '' collet in your milling machine and then inserted into the collet a piece of ground stock, that fits the hole in the rotary table you could align your rotary table that quick,you may have to turn a piece of stock to fit the rotary table center.,but at least you get the picture,just my 2 cents take care and thanks for sharing.
Hi Ray, that is a brilliant suggestion. I don't have a 3/4" collet, but I do have 1/2" and 16mm. I will have a go turning both ends of some bar and check for accuracy. It will save me lots of time if it works. Thanks again for the suggestion, very much appreciated.
Cheers
Andrew
Hey, great addition the new rotary table, enjoy! If I could make a suggestion, make sure the clamps are always pointing a bit downwards on their way to whatever it is they clamp, thus ensuring it will remain clamped. I am saying this because it seems the ones clamping the rotary table on the machine's table are pointing a bit up. But it might be the camera...
Hi Kostas. Thank you so much for the advice. I think the clamps were pointing slightly upwards, so I really appreciate your tip. I will try to remember in future.
Cheers
Andrew
Great job Andrew, you forgot about the clamps I see but there’s already a comment about them. Ten out of Ten by the way for “pillar drill”, the term “drill press” makes me want to scream, when I was in the trade if I wanted to press something I’d use a press, that type of machine is totally unsuitable for pressing purposes so why describe it as a f***ing drill press..... Rant over, keep up the good work mate...👍👍👍👍👍🇬🇧
Thanks Allen - I really appreciate the support, though my terminolgy can be somewhat dire at times.
Cheers
Andrew
For a quick method of centralising your rotary table to the mill spindle I got a no.2 morse taper 'blank' from Arc Euro Trade (# MT2 Blank End Arbor 1"x1") and then reduced the blank/soft end diameter to fit in a collet. You could turn it from scratch but at less than a fiver it isn't worth it. Place the rotary table on mill table and roughly align it but leave the table clamps loose. Then install the alignment tool in the collet and then lower the quill/morse taper in to the morse taper hole in the centre of the rotary table - the rotary table will then slide/self-align itself to the mill. Leave the quill locked down/lowered while you tighten the table clamps etc. Simple!
Many thanks for the tip. I've added the mt2 blank to my ever growing arc wish list! I'm sure it will save me loads of time.
Cheers
Andrew
Update!!! I purchased the mt2 blank as you advised. Turned the other end down to 14mm to fit my collet, and it works an absolute treat. Thanks for great tip 👍
Cheers
Andrew
Cool
Nice work and inspiring video. Looking at the time 12:40 I would like to make a suggestion. The bolt clamping the object should be closer to the object giving a better arm of torque. The pressure from the bolt/nut should hit the object a lot more than the block balancing the downpulling force to the favour of the object.
Thanks Stefan and a good point. In hindsight I maybe could have moved the clamp holes slightly closer to the centre.
Cheers
Andrew
That's exactly what I had in mind.
Nice work although those types of cuts are probably more easily done with a boring bar (which should be your next purchase LOL). On my mill I've mounted my vice off-centre (to the side) on the table which means there's room to mount my rotary table alongside the vice when needed, thus saving having to remove the vice and then re-mount it etc. I've got an SX2.7 mill which has a wider table than yours but my vice is wider than yours and I've got the wider 150mm version Soba rotary table (which are excellent quality/value as you say) so I reckon you'd have enough room on your table to mount both, at least for the majority of part sizes. And yes, DRO's on the X and Y axis are a real help. Jon
Hi Jon - many thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it. I did wonder whether I could accommodate both on the table, but wasn't sure if being off-centre might introduce more play via the gibs. I'll definately check it out though. And, yes, a boring bar would be great. Having taken in the Stuart S50 engine project, I'm having to purchase other items - like BA taps and dies, and an angle plate. No doubt I will have to get other items too - like a 4 jaw chuck? So, the boring bar will have to wait a while I thing.
Thanks again.
PS - I really fancied the SX2.7 mill, but I couldn't find the space. Lovely machine!
Andrew
Hello Andrew,another visit to this video, and I would think that the speeds that were used, may have been a little too fast,,,,the easy way to remember is, hard stock......ie stainless and other hard material is slow somewhere around 200rpm's to around 285 you will actually feel the difference in the cutters, and for soft material, its usually around 1200 to 1500 rpm's again you will get use to the sound and feel of the cutter...this is only a suggestion, cheers my fried till next time.......
Thanks for the advice Ray. Much appreciated.
Andrew
just great!
Thanks Guy!
I have a SIEG X2 mini mill, but your table, Is It original? It seems very big compare to the SIEG table!! Thank you, i like this rotary table, But i think it Is a Little high for my mini mill, i mean the thickness of the rotary table! Thank you for your answer in Advance!!! Alberto
Hi Albero. My table is original - 400mm x 140mm excluding handwheel. The rotary table is about 85mm high. The distance between the table and the spindle (without tools in) is 285mm.
I hope that helps.
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal Thank you so much for Your informations!!! :D
Hi Andrew, the remodelled flywheel looks great, but has the reduced weight affected it's function?
Hi Steve, I can't say I did notice any difference.
Cheers
Andrew
That turned out well, i'm looking forward to working my way through your videos now, that's a decent camera your using what is it? .... Andy
Hi Andy, it's a Sony a6000. Not a bad little camera.
Where did you get the Fask mask from and what brand is it?
Hi Andy. It's a Honeywell product. I can't remember where I purchased it from but if you search for 'honeywell face shield' you should come across some suppliers. It's basic and has a tendency to steam up, but it's effective.
Cheers
Andrew
10 tho at a time, who would have guessed it?