I’ve seen so many of these with cutting, carving etc etc. My hands couldn’t handle all of that! And I have tons of spray foam from home improvement. I am so excited! Thank you for this simple gorgeous background!
My buddys step grandfather invented that Great Stuff spray foam and sold it to DuPont. Needless to say he retired after the sale in Farmington Hills Mi, in a 14 million dollar mansion with an indoor cliff and waterfall .
Having never done a homemade background before, you've really made a video that shows how easy it "CAN" be done. Thanks mate for taking the time to record this and sharing.
Love this, and , as usual, you explained it very well. In process now... Started my first one and tried only using black aquarium gravel. Ugh. Even with a couple inches, it was not enough weight to set all the gravel in the surface of the foam securely. Next try with play sand... I found out the hard way that, like the can says, the foam won't work in hot temps. About 90 out today so the foam wouldn't even expand. It only hardened into squiggles that made my project look like a big litter box. Trying again. Wish me luck!
in process of setting up a new 100 gallon tank and really want a diy 3d background but was sooo not looking forward to doing one out of concrete and foam. so glad to find an alternative that is tons lighter and less likely to shatter my tank because it weighs 80lbs
Finding this video and breathing a sigh of relief. Thank you for sharing a totally do-able background process. Thank you for making a video that is both informative and entertaining! Off to grab my supplies and play:)
thanks for the video. I am working on mine now for my 130gal. i used two cans of great stuff, but ran out quick. used fence post foam and it expands quicker for larger aquariums.
You're fricken funny man. The part where you mentioned you "can't use books" and then continues to use a Library card. 😂 Rich. Also the hating sand clip from Star wars was well played 👍
I tried a cement background first. It actually came out looking good, but then I chickened out over the potential water parameter shifting effects, coated it in flex seal, and it ruined the look. It's currently the background for the mosh pit, though.
Something I'm gonna do in the future! Never tried putting sand on expanding foam, always scraped away at the foam with various tools. Boy the librarians sure must hate you! LOL Loved the editing, and the Star Wars reference 🤣🤣
You are so DIY clever! I am terrible at making things. Those Kerri blue tetras are fantastic! I thought about buying some for my new 10 gallon, but I think they might get a little big and fat.
Maybe a bit big for the 10, especially because you'd want to get at least 20 for maximum awesomeness. And did you see the Kali Tawa in the shot, too? They are tiny, no color whatsoever yet lol.
@@StephenP2003 you gotta give these guys a looong time. I got mine back in April and they are still getting there. I don’t think they grow as fast in my setup as they do for Ryan. I don’t know if it’s because my water is harder than his, or that I use CO2 or maybe that I don’t feed baby brine like he does. They are very pretty, though! Sadly, the females are super blah. Let’s hope you got a couple males!
Great tutorial! Very, very interested in doing this for a 75 Gallon Mbuna Cichlid Tank! Question, what would you recommend if I wantedto make the background removable?
I haven't tried to make a removeable one yet, but I think if I were going to attempt it, I would make it oversized (slightly too wide, but only by a centimeter or two), so that it fits in the tank snug and is held there by friction. Alternatively, I'd consider attaching the bottom of the background to some pieces of slate to weigh it down. The background is extremely buoyant, so that's where your challenge would be in whatever method you chose. I'll also say that siliconing it to the glass doesn't make it permanent, per se; you'll just hate life if you ever do decide to take it out.
The challenge is adhering it to the glass, because the background is going to float otherwise. If you made it exactly wide enough to wedge between the sides, you might be able to hold it in place with friction, but I don't know if anyone has tried that.
I have a new 125 gal, and I wasn't sure what I was going to do and now I know! They are going to be so happy since they are rock dwelling cichlids. Do you have any DIY lighting ideas?
Thanks for the vid! I’ll try this method out in a couple of days. One question since I’m a beginner, do you have to seal the edges of the background with silicone or not? Incas thinking that maybe the contact from water with the foam will have an negative impact? Thanks and all the best from Germany.
@@kocam030 there's no major issue with the foam contacting the water, but one reason you may want to seal close to the edges is to prevent waste, debris, and stagnant water from accumulating behind the background in large amounts.
asome. ...a doubt: would this work with coco fiber? . Or just with sand and gravel. i mean, i wonder if coco fiber cand stand long term acuarium conditions.
Nope, I don't rinse it at any point, other than when I first fill the tank, I might do a couple of water changes if the water is cloudy from the substrate.
@@isbiome yeah, pretty much, not that I really put a lot of effort into making sure there was a perfect seal against any potential toxins. But the background is still holding up in a plant grow out tank with fish actively breeding for the past 2 and a half years. I suppose the extra poly layer also serves as a bit of extra adhesive for the grains of sand that may be barely hanging on to the foam.
You can make it as one solid cohesive piece and then cut it into sections if you need to do so to fit it in the tank (center braces being in the way and all). That's how I did the background shown at the very beginning of this video on a 55inch tank. Then I used a bit more spray foam to hide the seam.
You could, but just make sure the heater was never on while the water is draining or it would for sure melt the foam if it's touching it or very close it... but my main concern would be lack of flow if it's tucked behind the background, it wouldn't be very effective at distributing heat in the whole aquarium.
The challenge is adhering it to the glass, because the background is going to float otherwise. If you made it exactly wide enough to wedge between the sides, you might be able to hold it in place with friction, but I don't know if anyone has tried that.
If I have, for exemple, a plastic airplane model, can I use the Polyurethane Clear Coat to make it cold freshwater aquarium safe? Awesome easy follow tutorial!
@@StephenP2003 oh cool I will try to found the same spray can you showed and follow it's instructions, I wanted to do a Tie Fighter wreckage aquascape for some time now, but the information online is really misleading I almost gave up searching for an awnser... I've read about Plastidip, Krylon, Silicone, UV resist Acrylic, FlexSeal, but no one can give a straight awnser, all say epoxy but thats not easy nor affordable.
Excellent tutorial, man, love the results and the way you explain it. Is this some specific kind of paint? I cannot find this brand in my country, but probably I can find an alternative if I know the type of paint that won't be harmful for the beasties. Keep the great work!
I don't think the foam would actually stick to the glass itself, but if you spray it end to end, it would definitely expand enough to wedge itself in... much easier to remove if you ever get tired of it, too. Not a bad way to do it, especially if you don't intend to paint it.
You wouldn't be able to use silicone, but if you made the background wide enough that you could wedge it between the side walls and against the back glass, you might could make it work. I've never tried it.
I would probably encase that equipment in something like rigid styrofoam to make a 3D template, and put spray foam on the template. That would be if you want to hide the equipment, as of course the simplest solution is cutting around it.
Ive been having a hard time keeping a styrofoam decoration glued down to the glass. I used a DAP Alex Flex. Its been able to keep the smaller decorations held down, but I have 2 taller ones that keep coming detached when i get the water almost full. Is the GE All Purpose stronger you think? Thanks!
I just looked up DAP Alex Flex. That's a siliconized latex-based caulk. It's mostly made of latex, and water soluble. It won't hold well, and you don't want that broken down latex adhesive in your tank. Whatever you use, make sure it says 100% silicone, and you must let it fully cure before a drop of water touches it.
@StephenP2003 thank you so much! I had looked it up too but I'm still trying to learn as much as I can. I will break down my other decorations and reseal them with the GE All Purpose. Thanks again!
What were the wait times/ cure times in between products. How long did you wait before you put the paint on top of the spray foam? And how long should I wait to apply the Plasti dip after the colored spray paint? I know you had mentioned that we should let it cure for a week before actually putting it in the tank? Is that correct? Assuming that's after I apply the plasti dip. Great video! Thank you so much for the informative ideas! Definitely got my creative side aroused.
I waited about 15 minutes between coats, 24 hours before top coat with poly urethane. I waited about 12 hours after the spray foam to start painting it. Are you going to use plasti-dip on it? That's a specific type of coating that i have not tried in a submersed environment.
Honestly, the foam background is so flexible that I think the same method would work for a hex tank. Some people apply the foam directly to the glass with success, but I have also heard of people breaking the glass from applying too much foam and the pressure from expansion being too much for the seams/silicone.
@@StephenP2003 thank you. I’m going to do your method. I definitely want to hide all cords pumps etc. Any suggestions for. As pump and filter system for a 85 gallon hexagon tank?
I've definitely seen that done before! But I don't know for sure what adhesive was used. The adhesive backing on those stick-on tiles may not hold up, but I imagine putting some silicone on it would work.
If I were to use the concrete method to make a 3d aquarium could I still use the polyurethane to coat it? I want to be able to but the background in fairly soon rather than waiting several months for the concrete to no longer change the ph of the water.
The polyurethane isn't going to be lasting solution. Polyurethane coats are not totally water impermeable over time so it will only slow the reaction. You would be need to coat it in epoxy, which I feel gives too much of an artifical look, or coat it in drylock paint, which is a solid color and defeats the purpose of using concrete in the first place. I spent several months working on cement background solutions, and ultimately I decided that using this spray foam method is the easiest and safest method, even if doesn't essily lend itself to the most advanced background designs.
It's more of a cover-your-ass situation. For one thing, most people don't consider the significantly longer cure time that silicone 2 demands because of the solvent it uses, so there is an inherent risk in using it in aquariums if you don't know what you're doing. There is no reason to CHOOSE silicone 2 over some other product, but rather it will work for this purpose if it's all you have and you're willing to wait a week or more before adding water and livestock. Secondly, while fully cured GE Silicone 2 is fine for adhering decor/backgrounds, it's not ideal for sealing aquariums, as there are other silicones out there (like RTV silicones that will use a different curing method to form a stronger bond on glass), so it's safer for the manufacturer to say it's not recommended for underwater or aquarium use than to specify which use cases are "fine" and which use cases are less than ideal.
Yes, everything is fully inert when it dries if you use the exact paints and other materials I used. I verified the safety of these materials by confirming they were reef safe, since that is basically the pinaccle of sensitive systems.
The pond foam is closed cell foam the regular spray foam isn't. I've made many duck decoys out of foam and I'll tell you do not use anything other than closed cell if it's going in or near water!!! Open cell WILL absorb water if any tiny part is exposed.
Silicone would be the only adhesive that I'd consider using for this for longevity. This is a super light background and needs to be held down somehow. I know some have achieved this by applying the foam directly into the tank, using the expanding properties of the foam to secure the background in place. I have not tried this, and I've also heard of someone cracking their tank because of the force of the expanding foam.
@@sagarmalthankar4066 if you can reach far back enough to install a background, you can use sticks that are just long enough to wedge between the front glass the background. It does not take a lot of pressure, just enough for the silicone on the background to make continuous contact with the back glass.
So, is there a way to install this if the tanks already full with fish, I really don’t wanna drain the entire tank and move fish just to install, is there underwater adhesive that’s safe with fish or anyone have any ideas?
You wouldn't be able to use silicone, unless you can drain the tank halfway and keep it that way for a few days until the silicone cures. You'll need to keep it clamped in place really well because the background floats. If you made the background wide enough that you could wedge it between the side walls and against the back glass, you might could make it work. I've never tried it.
You'll definitely need to relocate the fish and drain the tank for a few days while the silicone cures. I suppose you could try to make the background just wide enough that you can wedge it in there using the side glass to hold it in place, but I don't know how well that will work.
This is all true: ALL Polyurethane and Epoxy based compounds WHEN CURED PROPERLY will become non-toxic to any life form. Almost ALL TYPES OF PAINT these days are lead free, especially the water-based elastomeric paints.
Definitely! As would be any surface in an aquarium that is exposed to light and has no plants covering it. Regular maintenance is important in those situations for sure. That is, assuming the person doesn't like the algae. It can often look really cool and add more to the natural aesthetic!
I’ve seen so many of these with cutting, carving etc etc. My hands couldn’t handle all of that! And I have tons of spray foam from home improvement. I am so excited! Thank you for this simple gorgeous background!
Books that take up aquarium space ❤
Was going to copy this this arvo Stephen but went with a pre fabric background I already had it ready other then cutting it 😆
My buddys step grandfather invented that Great Stuff spray foam and sold it to DuPont. Needless to say he retired after the sale in Farmington Hills Mi, in a 14 million dollar mansion with an indoor cliff and waterfall .
This was the best tutorial and I am 99.9% sure I can create something as cool as yours. Thanks so much!
Having never done a homemade background before, you've really made a video that shows how easy it "CAN" be done. Thanks mate for taking the time to record this and sharing.
Love this, and , as usual, you explained it very well.
In process now... Started my first one and tried only using black aquarium gravel. Ugh. Even with a couple inches, it was not enough weight to set all the gravel in the surface of the foam securely. Next try with play sand... I found out the hard way that, like the can says, the foam won't work in hot temps. About 90 out today so the foam wouldn't even expand. It only hardened into squiggles that made my project look like a big litter box. Trying again. Wish me luck!
Thanks! Hope the second attempt goes well!
By far the most affordable and achievable diy background. Thanks for sharing!
This looks great!
I’m looking for a non toxic way to diy a water dish for my tropical frog, your information was SUPER helpful thank you.
in process of setting up a new 100 gallon tank and really want a diy 3d background but was sooo not looking forward to doing one out of concrete and foam. so glad to find an alternative that is tons lighter and less likely to shatter my tank because it weighs 80lbs
I've just used this method to make a background for my daughters tank - so far it looks awesome! Thankyou so much for the inspiration!!
Yay! glad it worked out!
Great video!! Thank you
Finding this video and breathing a sigh of relief. Thank you for sharing a totally do-able background process. Thank you for making a video that is both informative and entertaining! Off to grab my supplies and play:)
Awesome! Good luck!
Omg lol 😂 im totally dojng this, books part was great.
thanks for the video. I am working on mine now for my 130gal. i used two cans of great stuff, but ran out quick. used fence post foam and it expands quicker for larger aquariums.
You're fricken funny man. The part where you mentioned you "can't use books" and then continues to use a Library card. 😂 Rich. Also the hating sand clip from Star wars was well played 👍
@@youngmango4508 thanks! 😊
Thanks Stephen!! I'm going to try this once the weather is better. Idea also for my reptile enclosure that I will have to check into.
I dig it! i'll have to try that sand method. even tho it's coarse and irritating
And it gets everywhere!
Thanks this is great!! You have a very fun channel
Thank you! That's what the hobby and youtube should be about.... fun!
I’m going to do a background now! Thanks❤️
I like this! I've been looking into 3d backgrounds and they're expensive! Great DIY project Stephen
Good job Stephen !
Very different from what you usually see out there , I like it.
Thank you. I tried your method. My background came very beautiful.
Awesome! I'm so glad it worked well for you!
Great tutorial and fantastic idea. I may have to try this if I can ever sneak the 40 or 60 in that I need for my L236
You are the best, I went through 100 of videos and thanks god I didn’t give up. You made us so simple
Great! Glad I could help!!
very cool and looks simple enough will be trying soon!
This is the simplest DIY background I have seen, and definitely the most lightweight! Thank you!!!
I like this method. I might actually try this! The other methods I've seen involved mixing cement.
I tried a cement background first. It actually came out looking good, but then I chickened out over the potential water parameter shifting effects, coated it in flex seal, and it ruined the look. It's currently the background for the mosh pit, though.
Now this is a project i could get into!
Thanks Stephen 👍👍 I learned something 😊
Great video, thanks.
Very nice! I will be making one for my 55 gal
I love it I'm going out tomorrow and picking up some supplies and doing this. thanks for sharing 💯✌️👍
Awesome! Good luck!
Awesome video Stephen, i’m thinking of trying this myself. God bless you and your family:)
- Fish central
You are excellent! Glad I stumbled across your content. Keep it up!
Thank you!
AWESOME!!!! I WILL TRY IT
Thanks for sharing ✌️
Great video. Thanks for the ideas. Had me lmao a few times.
Cool diy Stephen…thumbs up here👍
Nice video P, I like the silicon explanation you gave should help someone out
Cool project, great video. To the moon!
Something I'm gonna do in the future! Never tried putting sand on expanding foam, always scraped away at the foam with various tools. Boy the librarians sure must hate you! LOL
Loved the editing, and the Star Wars reference 🤣🤣
I wanted to put the whole awkward scene in there, but was afraid of the full force of Disney!
🤣
You are so DIY clever! I am terrible at making things. Those Kerri blue tetras are fantastic! I thought about buying some for my new 10 gallon, but I think they might get a little big and fat.
Maybe a bit big for the 10, especially because you'd want to get at least 20 for maximum awesomeness. And did you see the Kali Tawa in the shot, too? They are tiny, no color whatsoever yet lol.
@@StephenP2003 you gotta give these guys a looong time. I got mine back in April and they are still getting there. I don’t think they grow as fast in my setup as they do for Ryan. I don’t know if it’s because my water is harder than his, or that I use CO2 or maybe that I don’t feed baby brine like he does. They are very pretty, though! Sadly, the females are super blah. Let’s hope you got a couple males!
Looks awesome great idea and info 👍 thanks for sharing
amazing your tutorial is very good, the result is cool
Another awesome video man
great video...i learned a lot
Great tutorial! Very, very interested in doing this for a 75 Gallon Mbuna Cichlid Tank! Question, what would you recommend if I wantedto make the background removable?
I haven't tried to make a removeable one yet, but I think if I were going to attempt it, I would make it oversized (slightly too wide, but only by a centimeter or two), so that it fits in the tank snug and is held there by friction. Alternatively, I'd consider attaching the bottom of the background to some pieces of slate to weigh it down. The background is extremely buoyant, so that's where your challenge would be in whatever method you chose. I'll also say that siliconing it to the glass doesn't make it permanent, per se; you'll just hate life if you ever do decide to take it out.
@@StephenP2003 Thank you! And again great stuff!
Great job this is awesome
Great job dude..
Thanks!
This is awesome
Great video 👍👍👍
I love this idea! However, there’s already water in my tank. Can I still do this and then place in my tank? Or does it have to be empty?
The challenge is adhering it to the glass, because the background is going to float otherwise. If you made it exactly wide enough to wedge between the sides, you might be able to hold it in place with friction, but I don't know if anyone has tried that.
Amazingly cool love it great job 👏 💖
I have a new 125 gal, and I wasn't sure what I was going to do and now I know! They are going to be so happy since they are rock dwelling cichlids. Do you have any DIY lighting ideas?
Awesome! So, the only DIY lighting I've done was also for a background, normally I just stick with the usual planted tank lighting.
Thanks for the vid! I’ll try this method out in a couple of days. One question since I’m a beginner, do you have to seal the edges of the background with silicone or not? Incas thinking that maybe the contact from water with the foam will have an negative impact? Thanks and all the best from Germany.
@@kocam030 there's no major issue with the foam contacting the water, but one reason you may want to seal close to the edges is to prevent waste, debris, and stagnant water from accumulating behind the background in large amounts.
asome. ...a doubt: would this work with coco fiber? . Or just with sand and gravel. i mean, i wonder if coco fiber cand stand long term acuarium conditions.
It would definitely break down over time, but spray foam.and coco fiber and pest and spagnum are a great terrarium wall combo.
Hey, loved part one....wheres part 2?!
Here ya go! ua-cam.com/video/-9R6PQxqqXA/v-deo.html
Good video!
Two thumbs up!
Question, after peeling off the back and before painting do you rinse off?
Nope, I don't rinse it at any point, other than when I first fill the tank, I might do a couple of water changes if the water is cloudy from the substrate.
is the polyurethane coat just a precaution? just wondering
@@isbiome yeah, pretty much, not that I really put a lot of effort into making sure there was a perfect seal against any potential toxins. But the background is still holding up in a plant grow out tank with fish actively breeding for the past 2 and a half years. I suppose the extra poly layer also serves as a bit of extra adhesive for the grains of sand that may be barely hanging on to the foam.
Not bad at all
I'm looking to do a background on a 72" aquarium, would you build a background in 3 sections?
You can make it as one solid cohesive piece and then cut it into sections if you need to do so to fit it in the tank (center braces being in the way and all). That's how I did the background shown at the very beginning of this video on a 55inch tank. Then I used a bit more spray foam to hide the seam.
Can you put a heater behind this? Is it safe as far as the foam goes?
You could, but just make sure the heater was never on while the water is draining or it would for sure melt the foam if it's touching it or very close it... but my main concern would be lack of flow if it's tucked behind the background, it wouldn't be very effective at distributing heat in the whole aquarium.
I wonder why you wont find it in anyone elses 👀👍🏽✌🏽
Can I make this and add it to an already established tank?
The challenge is adhering it to the glass, because the background is going to float otherwise. If you made it exactly wide enough to wedge between the sides, you might be able to hold it in place with friction, but I don't know if anyone has tried that.
If I have, for exemple, a plastic airplane model, can I use the Polyurethane Clear Coat to make it cold freshwater aquarium safe?
Awesome easy follow tutorial!
Yes, just let it cure completely before exposing to water, and use the oil based kind.
@@StephenP2003 oh cool I will try to found the same spray can you showed and follow it's instructions, I wanted to do a Tie Fighter wreckage aquascape for some time now, but the information online is really misleading I almost gave up searching for an awnser...
I've read about Plastidip, Krylon, Silicone, UV resist Acrylic, FlexSeal, but no one can give a straight awnser, all say epoxy but thats not easy nor affordable.
Excellent tutorial, man, love the results and the way you explain it. Is this some specific kind of paint? I cannot find this brand in my country, but probably I can find an alternative if I know the type of paint that won't be harmful for the beasties.
Keep the great work!
You want to look for something meant for painting plastics. Is rustoleum available?
@@StephenP2003 Yes, There's Rust-oleum here :)
I am the least artistic person to have ever lived and I think I could do this!!
Absolutely! I half-assed it and it still came out pretty good.
Nice I have been thinking about trying it myself. Do you think it would work just by putting the spray foam right on the glass.
I don't think the foam would actually stick to the glass itself, but if you spray it end to end, it would definitely expand enough to wedge itself in... much easier to remove if you ever get tired of it, too. Not a bad way to do it, especially if you don't intend to paint it.
I wonder how to install this to an existing tank that has fish and plants?
You wouldn't be able to use silicone, but if you made the background wide enough that you could wedge it between the side walls and against the back glass, you might could make it work. I've never tried it.
@@StephenP2003 i will give it a try.
I made the mistake - not installing it right away
And it curled :(
Just made it more difficult to install is all 👍
How would you put in a bump out for the intake,heater, and clean water return?
I would probably encase that equipment in something like rigid styrofoam to make a 3D template, and put spray foam on the template. That would be if you want to hide the equipment, as of course the simplest solution is cutting around it.
Ive been having a hard time keeping a styrofoam decoration glued down to the glass. I used a DAP Alex Flex. Its been able to keep the smaller decorations held down, but I have 2 taller ones that keep coming detached when i get the water almost full. Is the GE All Purpose stronger you think? Thanks!
I just looked up DAP Alex Flex. That's a siliconized latex-based caulk. It's mostly made of latex, and water soluble. It won't hold well, and you don't want that broken down latex adhesive in your tank. Whatever you use, make sure it says 100% silicone, and you must let it fully cure before a drop of water touches it.
@StephenP2003 thank you so much! I had looked it up too but I'm still trying to learn as much as I can. I will break down my other decorations and reseal them with the GE All Purpose. Thanks again!
What were the wait times/ cure times in between products. How long did you wait before you put the paint on top of the spray foam? And how long should I wait to apply the Plasti dip after the colored spray paint? I know you had mentioned that we should let it cure for a week before actually putting it in the tank? Is that correct? Assuming that's after I apply the plasti dip.
Great video! Thank you so much for the informative ideas! Definitely got my creative side aroused.
I waited about 15 minutes between coats, 24 hours before top coat with poly urethane. I waited about 12 hours after the spray foam to start painting it. Are you going to use plasti-dip on it? That's a specific type of coating that i have not tried in a submersed environment.
I have a hexagon tank. What can I use for the circular background
Honestly, the foam background is so flexible that I think the same method would work for a hex tank. Some people apply the foam directly to the glass with success, but I have also heard of people breaking the glass from applying too much foam and the pressure from expansion being too much for the seams/silicone.
@@StephenP2003 thank you. I’m going to do your method. I definitely want to hide all cords pumps etc. Any suggestions for. As pump and filter system for a 85 gallon hexagon tank?
@@tanyawilson5928 you might find it easier to hide the intake and output of a canister filter, but hang on backs are definitely more convenient.
@@StephenP2003 thank you
Will moss grow on the background
Definitely, as will epiphytes, and even other types of plants will attach their roots to the background.
😎😎😎😎
after watching this, i just had a though, has anyone tried that stick on tile? I saw some that had pebbles, thoughts?
I've definitely seen that done before! But I don't know for sure what adhesive was used. The adhesive backing on those stick-on tiles may not hold up, but I imagine putting some silicone on it would work.
If I were to use the concrete method to make a 3d aquarium could I still use the polyurethane to coat it? I want to be able to but the background in fairly soon rather than waiting several months for the concrete to no longer change the ph of the water.
The polyurethane isn't going to be lasting solution. Polyurethane coats are not totally water impermeable over time so it will only slow the reaction. You would be need to coat it in epoxy, which I feel gives too much of an artifical look, or coat it in drylock paint, which is a solid color and defeats the purpose of using concrete in the first place. I spent several months working on cement background solutions, and ultimately I decided that using this spray foam method is the easiest and safest method, even if doesn't essily lend itself to the most advanced background designs.
I have that GE 2 silicone and on the back it specifically states "not recommended for underwater or aquarium use " what's up with that ?
It's more of a cover-your-ass situation. For one thing, most people don't consider the significantly longer cure time that silicone 2 demands because of the solvent it uses, so there is an inherent risk in using it in aquariums if you don't know what you're doing. There is no reason to CHOOSE silicone 2 over some other product, but rather it will work for this purpose if it's all you have and you're willing to wait a week or more before adding water and livestock. Secondly, while fully cured GE Silicone 2 is fine for adhering decor/backgrounds, it's not ideal for sealing aquariums, as there are other silicones out there (like RTV silicones that will use a different curing method to form a stronger bond on glass), so it's safer for the manufacturer to say it's not recommended for underwater or aquarium use than to specify which use cases are "fine" and which use cases are less than ideal.
Is this also safe in Saltwater/Reef tanks?
Yes, everything is fully inert when it dries if you use the exact paints and other materials I used. I verified the safety of these materials by confirming they were reef safe, since that is basically the pinaccle of sensitive systems.
The pond foam is closed cell foam the regular spray foam isn't. I've made many duck decoys out of foam and I'll tell you do not use anything other than closed cell if it's going in or near water!!! Open cell WILL absorb water if any tiny part is exposed.
The great stuff foam I used is closed cell, not just the pond foam. I'd agree that you wouldn't want to use open-cell for anything you want to float.
I just need to find the U.K. equivalent of the paints and foam used and at a reasonable price
Can we put this without silicon
Silicone would be the only adhesive that I'd consider using for this for longevity. This is a super light background and needs to be held down somehow. I know some have achieved this by applying the foam directly into the tank, using the expanding properties of the foam to secure the background in place. I have not tried this, and I've also heard of someone cracking their tank because of the force of the expanding foam.
My problem is that my whole tank is in the wall so how can do
@@sagarmalthankar4066 if you can reach far back enough to install a background, you can use sticks that are just long enough to wedge between the front glass the background. It does not take a lot of pressure, just enough for the silicone on the background to make continuous contact with the back glass.
So, is there a way to install this if the tanks already full with fish, I really don’t wanna drain the entire tank and move fish just to install, is there underwater adhesive that’s safe with fish or anyone have any ideas?
You wouldn't be able to use silicone, unless you can drain the tank halfway and keep it that way for a few days until the silicone cures. You'll need to keep it clamped in place really well because the background floats. If you made the background wide enough that you could wedge it between the side walls and against the back glass, you might could make it work. I've never tried it.
whats the name of foam you use in the video?
It's called Great Stuff Insulating Foam
Sound like the guy from goodfellas was doing this tutorial
Ray Liotta?
@@StephenP2003 yes lmak
What if your tank already has fish
You'll definitely need to relocate the fish and drain the tank for a few days while the silicone cures. I suppose you could try to make the background just wide enough that you can wedge it in there using the side glass to hold it in place, but I don't know how well that will work.
This is all true: ALL Polyurethane and Epoxy based compounds WHEN CURED PROPERLY will become non-toxic to any life form. Almost ALL TYPES OF PAINT these days are lead free, especially the water-based elastomeric paints.
3D Aquarium Background is an algae magnet.
Definitely! As would be any surface in an aquarium that is exposed to light and has no plants covering it. Regular maintenance is important in those situations for sure. That is, assuming the person doesn't like the algae. It can often look really cool and add more to the natural aesthetic!
Lol books taking up space for aquariums huh try being married to a master’s degreed librarian lol 😂
And yea I know I’m little late watching
But I did watch it twice 😂
Better late than never! Just watch it maybe one more time to make up for it.