Tool maker for 47 years, I'm old... very very old. Enjoy your videos a lot. My hands were constantly grinding, filling and polishing for all those years. I have great admiration for everyone who makes their own tools. Very relaxing for me to watch you work. Think you! Sincerely Walt. 🕊👍
@@andrewamann8855 Hmm, you may be right. They'd have to be very thin, or perhaps, just cover the entire bottom in a thin piece of rubber. That would probably work.
“...that I totally didn’t cut off something else”. Loads of laughs. I remember Yellow Submarine. It was a cartoon movie and the Artist was Linda McCartney. Good show.
Regarding the angle you ground on the point: In my experience, those are _usually_ ground to be the same angle as the tip of the drill bits you're using. This is so the bit gets as much cutting surface area as possible - it also helps keep the bit steady. Excellent build!
As someone who lacks creative flair and ability I really enjoy your videos as you have tremendous skill and your commentary is very entertaining! Kudos my friend
@@dafoex I always wondered why they changed the name the sport that uses feet while stealing that name to use for a sport that uses mostly hands. My country is weird.
You have a very special talent and good sense of humor. I do leather work so if I make a mistake I can usually fix you on the other hand have it a little harder. It must be a very expensive hobby. Keep up the good work and the jokes.
That's great. I have the same problem w/ center punches. I saw someone just use the punch very lightly and if it was off, he could move it a bit with the same punch by angling it a bit. Then when he was happy, BAM. Not a bad way to go if you don't have an optical punch, which I don't have. Thanks for the video.
One thing to help on the trust side: It has a slick bottom, so it moves easily. So, put a non skid surface on the bottom. Even SHOE GOO will work, if put on evenly and not too thin or thick. It is tenacious stuff and very thick so it will be a minor challenge to get it on evenly. Put some on a piece of wood/metal. spread it thin then check for yourself. You could put on an O-Ring in a channel and leave about 1/4 of it sticking out. The "stickier" the better on material.
That has to be the nicesse center punch I have ever seen.but I don't know how how long it would last in my blacksmith shop. You do beautiful work Uri it is a pleasure to to watch you .
Proper use in this application would be start with a sharp scribe that leaves a proper (tiny) groove. Then your punch must have a good sharp tip, then you will feel it drop into the intersection of the scribed lines. Also you can start with a lite tap, inspect for centerness, and correct if necessary by leaning punch a bit on second hit, you can move the center slightly as you punch deeper. That being said, cool and beautiful and useful tool!
Uri, your vids are amazing. Kind of like watching Clickspring, This Old Tony and Mustie 1. It's a joy to see somebody create something with their hands and thinking outside of the box. You are a true craftsman. Thanks for the post.
Thanks for another great video. Your creativity and ability to make tools that stand head and shoulders above others (pun intended) is what makes your videos so intriguing. Always looking forward to the next one!
Your work is amazing. Thank you for the inspiration, and humor, especially during society’s downtime. Time to take inventory, and, nice to have something to do. Looking forward to more of your videos.
I literally feel excited when I see you drop a new video. My favorite maker channel. And brilliant editing the Sgt. Pepper in there. I almost broke out into a laugh. Very good very good.
To anyone who believes the stereotype that a French accent sounds arrogant, how do explain this? Here we have an immensely talented man, with a French accent, who comes across as more humble than a man of his skills has any right to be!!!
I haven't tried this myself, but I'd think you'd need some light at the bottom of the punch -- maybe a notch or hole in the vicinity of the bottom. However, all this can be skipped if you simply learn to "walk" your centerpunch. Offhand, I don't know a text that describes this, so I'll try: Scribe your cross-lines. Using a sharp centerpunch, lightly centerpunch the workpiece. Observe whether the centerpunch mark is at the cross-lines. If not, then replace the centerpunch in the mark, but angle it, possibly as much as 30 degrees from the vertical, such that it points to the cross-lines. Strike just a bit harder this time, and the mark will "move" toward the cross-lines. Repeat as necessary, each time striking slightly harder than the previous time. When the mark is at the cross-lines, place the punch vertical and strike it firmly to make the final mark.
Hello. Physics student here. What you're trying to make is plano convex lens When you look from the convex end the image is distorted for a couple of reasons. First - I'm not sure how well you made the curve. It should be a perfect circular curve. Any deviation leads to distortion in the image. Second - I'm not sure how you determined the length of the rod. Your lens has its focal point. If your length is shorter than focal point you get a more magnification the closer you are to the focal length (also, you'll see more imperfections in the convex part of the lens. If your rod is a bit longer than the focal length your image will be magnified but inverted. If it's way longer than the focal length, your image will bounce off the sides of the material, and your image will be distorted. I did a bit of math, using a few approximations and if I was making it I'd find the largest perfect semicircle that I could and use it to make the convex end. I'd make the length of the rod 1.5 times the radius of the semicircle used for the convex end of the rod because using a few approximations of Snell's law I calculated that the focal length is about 1.5 times the radius of curvature of convex end. Hope it helps if you aim to improve it Good luck with any of your future works
You can have a flat bottom with crosshairs, but the problem here is focal length. The shape of the lens dictates a specific length of the whole piece to be able to focus correctly. Either way, love it.
Rediscovered your channel today and so glad I did, love the work you do and I get on so well with your humour! Making this dissertation go that bit easier 😁
I suggest putting some good non-skid on bottom. It will prevent any movement off center when you change out optical for punch. Without it, it will be easy to move away from center
I have a concept that could work out better. Rather than having the optic guide be in place of the punch, make the optic guide the base. If most of your scribe marks are perpendicular, you could easily create a base that acts as cross hairs that align with the scribe lines rather than the intersection. The problem I have with these optical center punches is that you need to remove the optic and place the punch, which adds additional processes that could potentially snowball into accuracy errors, one little twitch of the hand can ruin your accuracy. My concept doesn't fully fix this, as clamping the guide is the best solution, but it does remove the large amount of processes between set and hit. The standard optical guides require you to set the guide, remove the optic, set the optic down, pick up the center punch, place the center punch, pick up your hammer, then hit the punch; whereas my concept only requires you to set the guide, pick up your hammer, and hit the punch, not to mention you can nix the middle step if you can do this one handed, something of which that is not possible with the standard optical center punch.2/3 processes compared to 7 processes, not only is it more efficient, but you're saving yourself from potential accumulative errors. Though this does only work if your scribe lines match the guide. But that doesn't mean you can't manufacture a base to fit what your project requires; for example, if you're dealing with a project with mostly triangular/hexagonal placement, you can manufacture a base that will fit the three scribe lines with 120° of separation. Maybe even expand on this idea with a singular base that acts as a protractor: Print on some laminating film, the thinness is key for reducing parallax error, you can make a protractor with a static base layer and a rotating layer for a rotating marker; all you would have to do is match the protractor angles to the scribe lines, find the center, then punch, less efficient than just the typical base, but more accurate for non-square scribes, while potentially still being operable with one hand depending on how it's actually manufactured.
Has anyone ever told you that you are NUTS? Well I won't because I get it, you have so much fun making things and twisting the design into something fun and yet very skillful. I have never seen an optical center punch but now I must have one. Sadly mine won't a bust of Sgt. Pepper, but I need one non the less.
"I really hope this figure doesn't get confused with Stalin"
*first punch lands left of center*
Zing !
Oh snap!
Thanks dude.
I was eating my breakfast when I read your comment.
I laughed so hard I spit Coco pops all over the cat.
The cat now f*cking hates me.
Who is that a figure of?
@@MaheerKibria Stalin, pay attention.
Amazing! You deserve way more subscribers!
Didn't expect to see you here! How's your cat problem doing mate?
Do a collab with him
Bro is this finally the start of the Urixthing ship
Tool maker for 47 years, I'm old... very very old. Enjoy your videos a lot. My hands were constantly grinding, filling and polishing for all those years. I have great admiration for everyone who makes their own tools. Very relaxing for me to watch you work. Think you! Sincerely Walt. 🕊👍
"Before you leave, if you haven’t already"
"move aside, peasant, while I make your eyes redundant" is an amazing sentence
Maybe adding some thin rubber feet to Sgt Stalin would make him more stable while you switch from the lens to the steel punch?
I agree!
That seems like a really easy way to introduce some sizable error to the tool, if you're not careful...
@@andrewamann8855 Hmm, you may be right. They'd have to be very thin, or perhaps, just cover the entire bottom in a thin piece of rubber. That would probably work.
Silicone
Sgt? That would be Generalissimo Stalin, off to the gulag with you comrade.
“...that I totally didn’t cut off something else”. Loads of laughs. I remember Yellow Submarine. It was a cartoon movie and the Artist was Linda McCartney. Good show.
2:33 Man.. if only you had some sort of optical center-punch to help you with that. Maybe you could make one?
How have I missed this channel before? This stuff is awesome! See you at Makers Central next year for sure!
Thanks! Yeah, see you there.
i love how you make tools that are not just klonks of metal but have character and beauty. thanks Uri. :D
Me skips forward in the video a little bit...
Me: why is he making a small bust of Stalin? I should probably go back and watch the whole thing.
I thought the same exact thing lol
I think he actualy look like an oldtime sawmill worker.
I thought that right before he said "Hope this doesn't get mistaken for Stalin"
And here was me thinking it was Nigel Mansell
The small bust of Stalin is why I clicked. I thought, “I have to see what this is all about.”
I save your videos to watch on days I'm feeling down, because your creations and attitude always make me smile
"Stalin" classic. I love your videos. I really needed a smile today and as usual you're the one that always delivers. Thanks.
Love this guy. Just the right amount of humor, modesty, and information. Keep it up!
"Going to make this in the shape of Sgt. Pepper .... don't really know why". Actually laughed out loud dude! Great tool make!
Could watch you work all day Uri, Brilliant work.
Regarding the angle you ground on the point: In my experience, those are _usually_ ground to be the same angle as the tip of the drill bits you're using. This is so the bit gets as much cutting surface area as possible - it also helps keep the bit steady. Excellent build!
I love the sound when you quench it around 5:30 . it's like some sci-fi weapon!
You always put a smile on my face, Uri. Thank you so much!
I love Yellow Submarine. I’ve seen it a dozen times. Nice work
Uri, you are the most real and genuine guy on UA-cam. I think you are funny when you are trying to be and I regard you as VERY artistic!
As someone who lacks creative flair and ability I really enjoy your videos as you have tremendous skill and your commentary is very entertaining!
Kudos my friend
Your LITTLE BIT OF BRASS is the machinist equivalent of Gordon Ramsays A TOUCH OF OLIVE OIL.....
Next up: Most expensive table football table with intricate brass players
@Charlie Vetsworth us/uk thing right? I'm no native.
@Charlie Vetsworth No, he's talking about foosball: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Table_football
Anson Mansfield
I don't know why, but I kind of just expected Americans to call it "table soccer" because that would be sensible.
@@dafoex I always wondered why they changed the name the sport that uses feet while stealing that name to use for a sport that uses mostly hands. My country is weird.
@Charlie Vetsworth You mean "prolate spheroid carried under arm?"
you are an inspiration! not only a hand crafted artisan but a hand crafted tool maker! WoW
I die of happiness every time Uri puts out a new vid.
You have a very special talent and good sense of humor. I do leather work so if I make a mistake I can usually fix you on the other hand have it a little harder. It must be a very expensive hobby. Keep up the good work and the jokes.
5:48 "I wonder why they call it High Speed Steel.... Oh"
Because it runs away from his hands too fast 😂
That's great. I have the same problem w/ center punches. I saw someone just use the punch very lightly and if it was off, he could move it a bit with the same punch by angling it a bit. Then when he was happy, BAM. Not a bad way to go if you don't have an optical punch, which I don't have. Thanks for the video.
God darnit!Does every tool you make needs to look like a museum piece Uri? How are we supposed to carry on with our lives after seeing this?!!=)
far from a museum piece, there's plenty of flaws. the more shit you make the better you get
@@schlomoshekelstein908 and why would you expect museum pieces to lack flaws? Lmfao
One thing to help on the trust side: It has a slick bottom, so it moves easily. So, put a non skid surface on the bottom. Even SHOE GOO will work, if put on evenly and not too thin or thick. It is tenacious stuff and very thick so it will be a minor challenge to get it on evenly.
Put some on a piece of wood/metal. spread it thin then check for yourself.
You could put on an O-Ring in a channel and leave about 1/4 of it sticking out. The "stickier" the better on material.
You're editing is getting better and better every video and you never cease to make me laugh and smile. Thank you for your wonderful creations!
That has to be the nicesse center punch I have ever seen.but I don't know how how long it would last in my blacksmith shop. You do beautiful work Uri it is a pleasure to to watch you .
Proper use in this application would be start with a sharp scribe that leaves a proper (tiny) groove. Then your punch must have a good sharp tip, then you will feel it drop into the intersection of the scribed lines. Also you can start with a lite tap, inspect for centerness, and correct if necessary by leaning punch a bit on second hit, you can move the center slightly as you punch deeper.
That being said, cool and beautiful and useful tool!
Definitely one of the most slept on creators. This is genuinely great stuff.
Uri, your vids are amazing. Kind of like watching Clickspring, This Old Tony and Mustie 1. It's a joy to see somebody create something with their hands and thinking outside of the box. You are a true craftsman. Thanks for the post.
Thanks for another great video. Your creativity and ability to make tools that stand head and shoulders above others (pun intended) is what makes your videos so intriguing. Always looking forward to the next one!
You deserve ten times the subscribers that you have Uri, you are an amazing artist. Love the build and the comedy as always. Looks amazing!!
By far the funniest video yet... And the bar was already very high.
This is one of my favorites so far! Thanks for all the great videos.
Your work is incredible man be proud of yourself
one of the few channels i have notifications on for. love your work Uri!!!
I truly admire your creativity and craftsmanship. You are an amazing artist. God bless
Well you are more of an artist than a machinist. Great work. Very beautifully carved
What a beautiful piece of work…I love the surprise…’It actually kind of works!’ 😎👍
Your work is amazing. Thank you for the inspiration, and humor, especially during society’s downtime. Time to take inventory, and, nice to have something to do. Looking forward to more of your videos.
I only just discovered your videos. I thoroughly enjoy them. You are so talented.
I literally feel excited when I see you drop a new video. My favorite maker channel. And brilliant editing the Sgt. Pepper in there. I almost broke out into a laugh. Very good very good.
To anyone who believes the stereotype that a French accent sounds arrogant, how do explain this?
Here we have an immensely talented man, with a French accent, who comes across as more humble than a man of his skills has any right to be!!!
You sir are amazingly talented
I love your wacky sense of humor. Great vids! And I learn so much. Very clever.
Beautiful work. You carved that brass like a pro. Thank you for sharing this.
I am super impressed with your figure carving skills, if I tried that it would not even look human.
First of all thank you for introduce to me that such a tool exist. In Iran I have never seen such a tool.
Man you have gold in your hands... Very nice job. Hope to see more of your videos :)
0:54 and that's why I love this channel
it is always a happy day when you upload, even if only one hour is left in it.
3:26 i'm a dentist and i can say, you really have good skill with the handpiece(that part of the video make me laugh😀). Great video hi from Argentina
Thanks!
Always great work Uri!
I haven't tried this myself, but I'd think you'd need some light at the bottom of the punch -- maybe a notch or hole in the vicinity of the bottom.
However, all this can be skipped if you simply learn to "walk" your centerpunch. Offhand, I don't know a text that describes this, so I'll try:
Scribe your cross-lines. Using a sharp centerpunch, lightly centerpunch the workpiece. Observe whether the centerpunch mark is at the cross-lines. If not, then replace the centerpunch in the mark, but angle it, possibly as much as 30 degrees from the vertical, such that it points to the cross-lines. Strike just a bit harder this time, and the mark will "move" toward the cross-lines. Repeat as necessary, each time striking slightly harder than the previous time. When the mark is at the cross-lines, place the punch vertical and strike it firmly to make the final mark.
Aces man! Absolutely Love your videos! What a great sense of humor and video style. Good to see you wearing your safety glasses. 😉 👍👍💞
Another quality video, Uri. That punch looks really nice. Great job!
The first VHS tape my parents had was Yellow Submarine. When I was little I watched it over and over again, and I would sing the songs in daycare.
Awesome I’ll see you at Maker Central!
It's..... Uri Tuchmans flying circus! :D (wonderful work you do)
What a beautiful device, thank you for sharing your work.
Another great video! I always get excited when you upload something.
Hello.
Physics student here.
What you're trying to make is plano convex lens
When you look from the convex end the image is distorted for a couple of reasons.
First - I'm not sure how well you made the curve. It should be a perfect circular curve. Any deviation leads to distortion in the image.
Second - I'm not sure how you determined the length of the rod. Your lens has its focal point. If your length is shorter than focal point you get a more magnification the closer you are to the focal length (also, you'll see more imperfections in the convex part of the lens. If your rod is a bit longer than the focal length your image will be magnified but inverted. If it's way longer than the focal length, your image will bounce off the sides of the material, and your image will be distorted.
I did a bit of math, using a few approximations and if I was making it I'd find the largest perfect semicircle that I could and use it to make the convex end. I'd make the length of the rod 1.5 times the radius of the semicircle used for the convex end of the rod because using a few approximations of Snell's law I calculated that the focal length is about 1.5 times the radius of curvature of convex end. Hope it helps if you aim to improve it
Good luck with any of your future works
I'm very impressed with your creativity👏
Your file movements are very smooth. I appreciate this.
A Shnip of Brass
-Uri Tuchmann, 2019
Snipper in dutch means flake, i know Uri isnt dutch but in his native language its probably something similar
You can have a flat bottom with crosshairs, but the problem here is focal length.
The shape of the lens dictates a specific length of the whole piece to be able to focus correctly.
Either way, love it.
That bust is amazing, awesome video
Look forward to meeting you at makers central, Love your work it would be nice to shake your hand and thank you in person for your great videos.
The Beatles movie is such a gem.
kinda psychedelic too...
I love your videos and how inventive you are! Your skills are amazing! You should write a book on “how to do”!
absolutely love that optical punch awsome brass work
This is awesome! Love the stop motion frames!
Im really happy that you like the beatles too, they are my favourite band
That's awesome! In the thumbnail looked like one of those fancy liquor bottle toppers. You're amazing.
The little stop motion was fantastic... Very yellow submarine. 🤣🤣🤣
I wish I could drink from whatever fountain it is that gives you your inspirations. Truly unusual, in all the best ways!
Loved this! Thanks for the Magical Mystery Tour!🤗😊😚
Brilliant theme! Never thought this video would take this turn....
Rediscovered your channel today and so glad I did, love the work you do and I get on so well with your humour! Making this dissertation go that bit easier 😁
I would definitly add some flush magnets to the bottom , obviously wont work with all metals but would be nice for punching steel
Now that's the kind of art/tools Iv'e come to expect from you. Great job. Even if it didn't work, it would sill be cool
OK. I've just discovered your channel.
I'm hooked.
Subscribed 20 secs into the 1st Lathe video.
greetings and best wishes from Ukraine! we love you Uri!
I suggest putting some good non-skid on bottom. It will prevent any movement off center when you change out optical for punch. Without it, it will be easy to move away from center
I have a concept that could work out better. Rather than having the optic guide be in place of the punch, make the optic guide the base. If most of your scribe marks are perpendicular, you could easily create a base that acts as cross hairs that align with the scribe lines rather than the intersection.
The problem I have with these optical center punches is that you need to remove the optic and place the punch, which adds additional processes that could potentially snowball into accuracy errors, one little twitch of the hand can ruin your accuracy. My concept doesn't fully fix this, as clamping the guide is the best solution, but it does remove the large amount of processes between set and hit. The standard optical guides require you to set the guide, remove the optic, set the optic down, pick up the center punch, place the center punch, pick up your hammer, then hit the punch; whereas my concept only requires you to set the guide, pick up your hammer, and hit the punch, not to mention you can nix the middle step if you can do this one handed, something of which that is not possible with the standard optical center punch.2/3 processes compared to 7 processes, not only is it more efficient, but you're saving yourself from potential accumulative errors.
Though this does only work if your scribe lines match the guide. But that doesn't mean you can't manufacture a base to fit what your project requires; for example, if you're dealing with a project with mostly triangular/hexagonal placement, you can manufacture a base that will fit the three scribe lines with 120° of separation. Maybe even expand on this idea with a singular base that acts as a protractor: Print on some laminating film, the thinness is key for reducing parallax error, you can make a protractor with a static base layer and a rotating layer for a rotating marker; all you would have to do is match the protractor angles to the scribe lines, find the center, then punch, less efficient than just the typical base, but more accurate for non-square scribes, while potentially still being operable with one hand depending on how it's actually manufactured.
From the thumbnail, I thought the Sgt Pepper figure was cut from a casting. You sculpted it. I am very impressed.
You hit the mark with this one man. Looking forward to meet you again in Birmingham.
Love your channel Uri, so glad i stumbled across it! Keep up the great work!
We really have enjoyed the show.
You make some amazing functional artwork !
Has anyone ever told you that you are NUTS? Well I won't because I get it, you have so much fun making things and twisting the design into something fun and yet very skillful. I have never seen an optical center punch but now I must have one. Sadly mine won't a bust of Sgt. Pepper, but I need one non the less.
I just bought tickets to Makers Central 2020 because of you!
Add a piece of thin non-skid to the bottom - it will remain where you put it and not easily slide if you don't hold it absolutely steady.