@ryurc3033 we don't like electronic cutouts due to the high failure rate. Living in the Midwest doesn't help that either I'm sure. We prefer making them and either using a vacuum source or using the old school manual ones where you unbolt the plate. You can get pretty creative with throttle body's as well.
Love these videos. You and mike from moto iq only tell the facts 👍 also just need my fuel system ran and 525c walbro pump installed than ill be askin for the etune again. Id like you to make a vid on my car when i get it to your dyno its got the kt1000 k247z 4piston racing engine, and the newer stage 3 4p cams that supposedly doubles the hp from stock, rbc intake, 5858 turbo, 12 lbs, and a boost controller, with the full race 3" exhaust, 1650cc injectors, will have 8an feed 6an return, with a fpr. Fully built trans by you guys gears 1-5 new fdrive new lsd. Cars fully built but id like people to get to see what the engine will do with the cams specifically because theres no videos of the cams in a full built turbo car yet we gotta make it happen first 😂. Thanks for reading
Keep up the great content Bob, your Always handing out those gems annd Also shot out to Angel who stays behind the scenes keeping our orders in line and us customers up to date. Super stoked to have made the haltech switch with you guys 👍😁🎉
Only reason for injectors for the sake of injectors is blueprinting to achieve a flow tested matched set. Skip the messy catch Can and opt for an Oil/Air separator that is plumbed to return the slightly cooled back to the sump.
There's a huge difference in an oil catch can and oil separator though. If the catch can is setup correctly it won't be messy at all. One of the bigger issues is people run to small of a can and it will overflow ( puke ) or its not hooked up correctly. Both serve there purposes though.
Hey man I appreciate the wisdom you shared. I would love to reach out to you with hope to learn a little more if you guys are able to spare the time. Great stuff here!
Good explanation of the subjects. I have been considering some sort of oil separator or catch can for my cat. The car is currently stock but is direct injected, so my goal is to keep the intake valves as clean as possible between services. My main concerns are probably because I don't fully understand whether or not these systems will hold a vacuum and how they might affect MAP sensor reading on WOT or directly after WOT.
As long as they are hooked up correctly, they'll be no issues with map sensor readings. Shoot us an email, we sell a bunch of different brands and if purchased from us we can also help you over the internet with install. And of course thank you for watching and thanks for the feedback.
Agreed. Been saying for years. The argument of needing/wanting back pressure with an explosion powered air pump, is absolutely stupid. And it all stems from one guy talking about factory exhaust systems on YT years ago, it seems.
Don't get me wrong, people shouldn't remove their header / headers and run it like that but the main thing is people shouldn't run a certain limiting header to increase back pressure to shift the power band. It's like training for a marathon but then smoking right after you're done for the day l....
No back pressure is fine for a racecar. But like you said An n/a Honda can't move enough air to fill a 3 inch pipe. It doesn't matter most of the time. Driveability exists in the real world, and 90% of people with a straight piped honda aren't making anything but noise. So unless the Goal is just to be as annoying as possible, dont be that guy.
My thing is, you gotta find the best of both worlds. Also, never purposely restricted power to change the power band up. We see a lot of Honds guys picking the wrong headers cause they want torque down low....Hondas don't make great torque period, so people should be utlizing the proper parts to make the most amount of power ( to s point )
In the past, I was curious about back pressure. I asked a mechanic, "What happens if you don't have back pressure?". He paused for a second, and then told me that it's hard on the valves - that you can burn out your valves if you run it too hard without back pressure.
I've always wondered, do people just not care about driveability? Throttle response? Maybe not going deaf while driving? Racecar is different scenario, because it only sees full throttle. Driveability concerns become less of an issue (harsh clutch engagement, smooth part throttle response)
@ryurc3033 honestly I think age is a big factor. Younger guys will sacrifice and not fully think about the long term. We have seen guys pull heater cores out to save weight, and regret it 4 months later in the winter. This is nothing new though, it may be a little worse now a days though.
@@RCautoworks 100% facts, one thing I've learned through many, many, modified cars, many car meets, many shows, everyone has their own idea of what's cool. I installed plenty of exhaust I thought sounded like crap, but the customer loved it(G35/Honda/V6 mustang). Many of those same kids(usually) ask why I ran 2.5 inch pipe on my mild built 454, and put 18 inch long magnaflows on it..... The answer? It fits better on a slammed truck, and I can drive 400 miles without getting a headache. It's only maybe 400 hp, but that means is still reliable. It doesn't have .650 lift solid lifter cam because I don't want to constantly be breaking valve springs, it doesn't have 14/1 Compression because I want to get by on 91. It still sounds crispy, clean and aggressive, and being a big block, it gets plenty of attention in a 76 shortbed, stepside Silverado. Them kids will learn someday, but for now, I will do what they want.
@ryurc3033 vary true, and that's what separates us all from one another and makes us great. Unfortunately some people don't see it like that and they just wanna bash people for not fully knowing why someone did something or went a certain direction.
On exhaust, I have a dB limit I have to meet because we set up courses in empty parking lots and we have to be good neighbors or we lose access to the site, so I have to find the best balance between quiet and flow, or basically the most flow that still meets the dB limit for my class. My class has a 95 dB limit measured at a point on the course that is max power and from a distance of 100 feet, generally right before the braking point on the longest straightaway. I have been using the Holley Laminar flow exhaust muffler that is the same inlet size as the collector on my header. Any advice, or am I about as quiet and free-flowing as I can get for my 6.3 liter LS engine?
Yes, I ran a dw 400c pump with dw 1000cc injectors and no return system on 12psi with my 9th gen si for a while but sadly I had a oil ring issue. So I had to park it lol
psi is irrelevant with out knowing the turbo size. 10 psi on a 62 trim turbo is completely different then 10 psi on a 72mm. With that being said, it depends on how much power you're making or trying to make and also what gas you're on.
@k24z7_ you're fine, once you get over 400hp stock sleeves are always a concern. That 5psi boost creep though....Cold temps shouldn't cause that much creep. Sounds like you have other issues.
Hello I have a d16z6 fully built it has 12.1 high compression piston eagle h being rods and ACL high pressure oil pump The block been notch. D16Z6 selling a head that been ported intake and exhaust I have BC springs and retainers I think I have a stock camshaft with a AEM true cam gear I have skunk 2 pro series intake 70 mm throttle body in a VMS fuel rail with 410 e85 compatible rdx injectors I have a aem. 320 e85 compatible fuel pump I have a full two and a half exhaust all the way back with a four to one headers. I am running a flex fuel sensor Honda s300 V3. My cylinder head do have ARP head studs with a climatic three-layer head gasket. I was wondering if you could estimate the power output to the wheels with this setup that I will be making. I so call had a dinotune and the guy gave me the dino sheet and it made 124 18 to the wheels with 107 foot pound of torque please tell me what you think my power should be at
This dude is the definition of "to hell with gatekeeping"!
Thanks for being a teacher!
Thank you and thank for not only watching but for the reply as well
I Love QUIET exhaust.
I hate LOUD exhaust.
It reminds me of this phrase...
"The louder the Mouth, the Dumber the brain."
get an electric exhaust cut out. open pipe for power when you need it. closed pipe for when you sneak past a cop. best of both worlds.
💯 , you got the right idea. 👍 thanks for watching and commenting.
One thing I've found about most brands of electric cutouts, they always leak. Always.
@ryurc3033 we don't like electronic cutouts due to the high failure rate. Living in the Midwest doesn't help that either I'm sure. We prefer making them and either using a vacuum source or using the old school manual ones where you unbolt the plate. You can get pretty creative with throttle body's as well.
@@RCautoworks great information to know before i cut my exhaust pipe. thanks.
Love these videos. You and mike from moto iq only tell the facts 👍 also just need my fuel system ran and 525c walbro pump installed than ill be askin for the etune again. Id like you to make a vid on my car when i get it to your dyno its got the kt1000 k247z 4piston racing engine, and the newer stage 3 4p cams that supposedly doubles the hp from stock, rbc intake, 5858 turbo, 12 lbs, and a boost controller, with the full race 3" exhaust, 1650cc injectors, will have 8an feed 6an return, with a fpr. Fully built trans by you guys gears 1-5 new fdrive new lsd. Cars fully built but id like people to get to see what the engine will do with the cams specifically because theres no videos of the cams in a full built turbo car yet we gotta make it happen first 😂. Thanks for reading
I'm ready when you are 😀, shoot me an email RCautoworks@gmail.com
Im still waiting for Mythbusters Ep 2!
Monday nights 😉, thanks for watching.
I love these types of videos
Thank you for the feedback, I have some more in store. Any ideas or topics you want covered let me know.
This is the kind of stuff us car junkies love and live for. Thank you!
❤️ that means a lot, thank you.
Thank you very much more please
Thanks for watching and commenting ❤️
Backpressure is beneficial for low end torque power.
Sure if you are looking for top end only and max power less backpressure is key.
Low end torque on a Honda doesn't happen....
How does backpressure help low end torque?
Thanks!
Thanks for watching
Hell yeah!
Thanks Bob 💯
Keep up the great content Bob, your Always handing out those gems annd Also shot out to Angel who stays behind the scenes keeping our orders in line and us customers up to date. Super stoked to have made the haltech switch with you guys 👍😁🎉
I appreciate that a lot ❤️ and I will definetly let him know.
great video, wish you guys were close to Az! Id love to work with you guys.
Don't forget we ship, if you're looking for any parts.
Keep up the great content!
Thanks GE
Keep em coming Bob! Great stuff
Thank you
This was a great video. Love learning more and more, thank you Bob
Thanks Michael for watching and supporting us over the years.
Bob is so dreamy when he talks about cars 😂
How you been Jose?
Only reason for injectors for the sake of injectors is blueprinting to achieve a flow tested matched set. Skip the messy catch Can and opt for an Oil/Air separator that is plumbed to return the slightly cooled back to the sump.
There's a huge difference in an oil catch can and oil separator though. If the catch can is setup correctly it won't be messy at all. One of the bigger issues is people run to small of a can and it will overflow ( puke ) or its not hooked up correctly. Both serve there purposes though.
Hey Bob.
Any meets planned for the shop?
Yep, we kept saying it last year but this year we will defiantly have one come spring time
Hey man I appreciate the wisdom you shared. I would love to reach out to you with hope to learn a little more if you guys are able to spare the time. Great stuff here!
I offer private tuning classes
Good explanation of the subjects. I have been considering some sort of oil separator or catch can for my cat. The car is currently stock but is direct injected, so my goal is to keep the intake valves as clean as possible between services. My main concerns are probably because I don't fully understand whether or not these systems will hold a vacuum and how they might affect MAP sensor reading on WOT or directly after WOT.
As long as they are hooked up correctly, they'll be no issues with map sensor readings. Shoot us an email, we sell a bunch of different brands and if purchased from us we can also help you over the internet with install. And of course thank you for watching and thanks for the feedback.
Same here. 2006 Subaru sti with spt add ons. 70 retired lineman diyer
Do you have a video on what a "full bolt on engine built" is?😂 that would be a good one.
Great info
Thank you
And thanks for watching
Agreed. Been saying for years. The argument of needing/wanting back pressure with an explosion powered air pump, is absolutely stupid. And it all stems from one guy talking about factory exhaust systems on YT years ago, it seems.
Don't get me wrong, people shouldn't remove their header / headers and run it like that but the main thing is people shouldn't run a certain limiting header to increase back pressure to shift the power band. It's like training for a marathon but then smoking right after you're done for the day l....
Thanks for watching and commenting
Before ID150 474 whp after ID1050 550 whp. Baseline run without tuning it for bigger injectors
No back pressure is fine for a racecar. But like you said
An n/a Honda can't move enough air to fill a 3 inch pipe. It doesn't matter most of the time. Driveability exists in the real world, and 90% of people with a straight piped honda aren't making anything but noise. So unless the Goal is just to be as annoying as possible, dont be that guy.
My thing is, you gotta find the best of both worlds. Also, never purposely restricted power to change the power band up. We see a lot of Honds guys picking the wrong headers cause they want torque down low....Hondas don't make great torque period, so people should be utlizing the proper parts to make the most amount of power ( to s point )
In the past, I was curious about back pressure. I asked a mechanic, "What happens if you don't have back pressure?". He paused for a second, and then told me that it's hard on the valves - that you can burn out your valves if you run it too hard without back pressure.
Running an engine with no header / headers could damage valves ( not recommended ) but it's not from lack of back pressure.
I've always wondered, do people just not care about driveability? Throttle response? Maybe not going deaf while driving?
Racecar is different scenario, because it only sees full throttle. Driveability concerns become less of an issue (harsh clutch engagement, smooth part throttle response)
@ryurc3033 honestly I think age is a big factor. Younger guys will sacrifice and not fully think about the long term. We have seen guys pull heater cores out to save weight, and regret it 4 months later in the winter. This is nothing new though, it may be a little worse now a days though.
@@RCautoworks 100% facts, one thing I've learned through many, many, modified cars, many car meets, many shows, everyone has their own idea of what's cool.
I installed plenty of exhaust I thought sounded like crap, but the customer loved it(G35/Honda/V6 mustang). Many of those same kids(usually) ask why I ran 2.5 inch pipe on my mild built 454, and put 18 inch long magnaflows on it.....
The answer?
It fits better on a slammed truck, and I can drive 400 miles without getting a headache. It's only maybe 400 hp, but that means is still reliable. It doesn't have .650 lift solid lifter cam because I don't want to constantly be breaking valve springs, it doesn't have 14/1 Compression because I want to get by on 91. It still sounds crispy, clean and aggressive, and being a big block, it gets plenty of attention in a 76 shortbed, stepside Silverado.
Them kids will learn someday, but for now, I will do what they want.
@ryurc3033 vary true, and that's what separates us all from one another and makes us great. Unfortunately some people don't see it like that and they just wanna bash people for not fully knowing why someone did something or went a certain direction.
Thanks it was about time the truth to be revealed
Thanks for watching
On exhaust, I have a dB limit I have to meet because we set up courses in empty parking lots and we have to be good neighbors or we lose access to the site, so I have to find the best balance between quiet and flow, or basically the most flow that still meets the dB limit for my class. My class has a 95 dB limit measured at a point on the course that is max power and from a distance of 100 feet, generally right before the braking point on the longest straightaway. I have been using the Holley Laminar flow exhaust muffler that is the same inlet size as the collector on my header. Any advice, or am I about as quiet and free-flowing as I can get for my 6.3 liter LS engine?
You have a solid reason to restrict flow a little bit, nothing wrong with that. Do you currently have a resonator?
@@RCautoworks no room under the car or beside it. The turnouts just clear the rear tire and the headers touch the back of the front tire at full lock.
You guys work on j series?
We sure do
Hey is it safe to run 12 psi on a 9th gen Si without a fuel return system? DW300c with ID1050x injectors
Yes, I ran a dw 400c pump with dw 1000cc injectors and no return system on 12psi with my 9th gen si for a while but sadly I had a oil ring issue. So I had to park it lol
psi is irrelevant with out knowing the turbo size. 10 psi on a 62 trim turbo is completely different then 10 psi on a 72mm.
With that being said, it depends on how much power you're making or trying to make and also what gas you're on.
@@RCautoworks I’m using a pulsar gtx3582 with a 7 psi spring but it was creeping to 12 psi on the dyno due to cold temps and made 373 WHP on pump 94
@k24z7_ you're fine, once you get over 400hp stock sleeves are always a concern. That 5psi boost creep though....Cold temps shouldn't cause that much creep. Sounds like you have other issues.
@@RCautoworks thanks for the reply do you know what will usually cause this issue? I’ve double checked everything
Hello I have a d16z6 fully built it has 12.1 high compression piston eagle h being rods and ACL high pressure oil pump The block been notch. D16Z6 selling a head that been ported intake and exhaust I have BC springs and retainers I think I have a stock camshaft with a AEM true cam gear I have skunk 2 pro series intake 70 mm throttle body in a VMS fuel rail with 410 e85 compatible rdx injectors I have a aem. 320 e85 compatible fuel pump I have a full two and a half exhaust all the way back with a four to one headers. I am running a flex fuel sensor Honda s300 V3. My cylinder head do have ARP head studs with a climatic three-layer head gasket. I was wondering if you could estimate the power output to the wheels with this setup that I will be making. I so call had a dinotune and the guy gave me the dino sheet and it made 124 18 to the wheels with 107 foot pound of torque please tell me what you think my power should be at
It in a 1995 Honda Civic DX four door sedan
Thanks for watching, as for power, depending in how that dyno reads ( high or low ) I'd expect around that on the single cam. What was the redline?
@@RCautoworks 7500
@@gerandoeley5429 shoot me a picture of the dyno sheet and tune and I'll check it out. Email is rcautoworks@gmail.com
It read low 14 low
That byou hve myfriend is A breather can A catch can is A o/s same thing.
Sorry Ricko but I'm not fully understanding that comment