How to calibrate any Apple Displays, iMac, Macbook (laptop) using X-Rite i1Profiler - ccProfiler
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- Опубліковано 21 чер 2020
- How to calibrate any Apple Displays, iMac, Macbook (laptop) using X-Rite i1Profiler!
How to calibrate any Apple Displays, iMac, Macbook using X-Rite i1Profiler!
In this video Art will show you how to calibrate any Apple Laptop, all iMac, any Apple Displays Hooked up to Mac with a Mac keyboard using X-Rite i1Profiler with X-Rite i1Display Pro Plus. Because many of these devices are portable in nature they get used in in multiple lighting situations and being able to set to the correct luminance level every time you want to do any serious image or video editing is crucial. This video will show you how to precisely set the brightness value (the number for your computer) to the correct candela every time on both laptop with Touch Bar and laptop with standard function keys, which would work with any iMac or Apple Display too.
UPDATE: the guide shown in this video will work for Calibrite Devices and ColorChecker Profiler (ccProfile) as well. There may be some GUI and branding changes, however, the software fundamental is still the same.
If you are unfamiliar X-Rite Transitioned this consumer product portfolio to a newly formed company called Calibrite, which is short for Calibration Done Right, on July 1st, 2021.
Find out more about this announcement in this video • Introducing Calibrite ...
**If you have Apple latest 14" & 16" MacBook Pro, regardless of Chip or Apple Pro Display XDR watch this video • How to create custom p...
If you have Apple Studio Display 5K watch this guide • Apple Studio Display C...
HOW TO: macOS Display Settings to turn off before Color Calibration 2020 Update (before macOS Monterey)
• HOW TO: macOS Display ...
macOS Monterey | Display Preferences to our off before Calibration!
• macOS Monterey | Displ...
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ColorChecker Studio amzn.to/3S4dWYZ
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UPDATE: the guide shown in this video will work for Calibrite Devices and ColorChecker Profiler (ccProfile) as well. There may be some GUI and branding changes, however, the software fundamental is still the same.
If you are unfamiliar X-Rite Transitioned this consumer product portfolio to a newly formed company called Calibrite, which is short for Calibration Done Right, on July 1st, 2021.
Find out more about this announcement in this video ua-cam.com/video/w_uRI5qkBlA/v-deo.html
**If you have Apple latest 14" & 16" MacBook Pro, regardless of Chip or Apple Pro Display XDR watch this video ua-cam.com/video/bqF_SQWv8x0/v-deo.html
**If you have Apple Studio Display 5K watch this guide ua-cam.com/video/7_EIy60UBTU/v-deo.html
HOW TO: macOS Display Settings to turn off before Color Calibration 2020 Update (before macOS Monterey)
ua-cam.com/video/hDHBodulVbw/v-deo.html
macOS Monterey | Display Preferences to our off before Calibration!
ua-cam.com/video/U6NOaDi2DQ0/v-deo.html
Well done. Thanks for doing this. Answered all my questions at just the right pace. Subscribed.
Thanks for the sub!
EXCELLENT video. Clear and informative. Thank you!
You are welcome!
This was incredibly helpful and very clear. Thanks very much.
You're very welcome!
Art! You RRRRRRR right!!! Yours was a very thoughtful presentation, well paced and spot on with content. Of course I subscribed!
Welcome aboard!
Great, great information, Art. Very glad to have it. Thank you,
You’re welcome
You're the man Art, thanks for your help!
Happy to help!
Thank you for this awesome video. Learned so much. Especially about using the Q/A section. I had never used this before. It was great to find out how accurate the profile was.
You are so welcome!
Thank you Art for sharing this valuable information... so helpful, wel presented and just incredible information.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video! thanks a lot Art.
Thank you! Cheers!
Love the new intro, thanks for the tutorial!
Thank you! I'm really proud of it too!
excellent explations and informations, thank you very much
You are welcome!
Awesome, helped me a lot!
Glad it helped!
Super helpful... thank you!
You're welcome!
Thank you!
You're welcome!
I finally got my display calibrated, after messing with colors for 2 years, because nobody nowhere told me what you explained in this video.
From now on, no more oversaturated colors, thanks God!
I think you should have about 70 k subscribers, not 7 k... but maybe, you should test more consumer-like products, to become more popular (I use both keywords Everywhere to get a search volume estimate and TubeBuddy, to optimize my videos SEO)
I subscribed!! :-)
Thank You! I appreciate the feed back, I have been using Tubebuddy but have not tried Keywords Everywhere yet. Thanks for the pointers!
ur the best
Thank you!
Hey Art, THANK YOU for this video. I was finally able to calibrate my LG Ultrawide monitors (Mac Color Grading system). QUESTION - do you have a video for calibrating an LG OLED 48C1AUB (48")? I am using this monitor as a REC709 reference monitor. Please let me know - thanks!
I would check out this ua-cam.com/video/C0mti4BguiY/v-deo.html
Thanks!
No problem!
LOVE this information, thank you!! Once I've properly calibrated, then when I'm editing in PS23 which color profile should I be working in? If yes, please describe where I would make this change (in "Color Settings", "Assign Profile", "Convert to Profile" or "Mode"?). Many thanks!
I should make a video on this, you can use reference profile such as sRGB or Adobe RGB or you can use the display icc as well, if you want to do this, I would recommend choosing the display icc at the bottom of the list instead of the option "monitor - profile name" at the top because there are some hardline ICC policies that PS enforce when choosing that option.
@@ArtIsRight Thank you & I'm sure a video on this would serve us well! :D
:)
Hi Art, great videos, thank you for going in depth. I have a question about swapping between 2 profiles with i1 Profiler. For context, I used to use the software a lot about 10 years ago, but since then I switched to Eizo CG monitors and have been using ColorNavigator with an i1 Display Pro. I am thinking about buying a Macbook Pro when the new 14" model is released later this year. I understand the process to create a photo editing profile at ~100cd/m. I recall that i1 Profiler then automatically loads the chosen profile at startup. However, I plan to use the laptop equally for content consumption. Would it make sense to create a second profile based on native/maximum luminance (might end up being 600-800 nits) or would the 100cd/m profile probably be fine once I increase the brightness all the way? If I did create two profiles, is it easy to swap in between them without having to restart the computer? I find with ColorNavigator and my Eizo that when I switch profiles and switch back things don't look right until I restart. Thanks if you have any advice!
Ketan, I would just use the 100 nits for photo for everything else that you do. Other brightness range are not for color critical work and the variations are really minor and almost visually un-noticeable. However, if you choose to use 2 profile that is fine too. Just go into display preferences, color tab and choose the other profile and you are done.
Ben, have you created a tutorial for the new Calibrite software by chance? I'm going through a calibration now (but using my existing Xrite i1 Display Pro. The Calibrite steps are slightly different and there are less steps than in the Xrite process. Want to be sure I'm using it correctly! Thanks!
Same software just different branding, steps are the same not less, they just took out the printing portions.
Hi Art, thank you for making these videos. What phosphor should I be using for the M1 iMac, PFS phosphor or GB-LED?
GB-LED based on X-Rite recommendation.
@@ArtIsRight Thank you Art!
Thanks for the video. And if the resulting brightness of the screen seems too low for me , but I have passed the calibration checker test, may I raise it? or it will make some incorrect tone appearence?
For general use you can change the brightness but for color critical work you should just bring it down to that level.
I wish X-Rite would just have links to your videos on their support page. Watching 18:00 of your video will save an hour at least trying to find the answers from them.
They do link some of contents and they do post some of my video on their channel. But I'm glad you for this resource, thank you.
Thank you for the great video. I do not recall you touching on the "Automatic Graphics Switching" option in the Energy Saver panel of System Preferences in this video or your other video you mention at the beginning of this video. Is this something we should leave checked or unchecked before calibrating our MacBook display? Because if graphics are switching, would that negatively affect anything before or after calibration? What are your thoughts on what I should do? Thank you for your time and help! :)
For some info, I am a photographer, print on a canon IPF 1000, and use a 2018 15" MacBook pro. The reason I want to calibrate my MacBook pro display is that I currently do not have access to my BenQ SW271 display. However, I do have my SpyderX Elite with me so I can calibrate my MacBook's display with that.
Great point, I have tested the graphic switching on the MBP and there are a few things that happens on the Mac. 1st Apple does a really great job normalizing the result between the two GPU in the system. 2rd when you start the calibration program on the Mac it is set so that the GPU would automatically switch to discrete, so anytime you are running the calibration you are using the more powerful GPU. And yes the icc from the more powerful GPU will work with the integrated GPU just fine, no visual difference.
If you hold Option+Shift+Brightness Key, you can adjust the backlight in quarters of a notch. Hope that helps!
made a video on that a long time ago already
Very helpful thanks but my screen changed to a terrible colour and no comment about re running the software - I assume it's just worth trying again!
Thank you
Yes try again. which computer do you have? And described "terrible color" please
how would you calibrate a printer? thanks so much for sharing.
This ua-cam.com/video/-yreR-Lc1-M/v-deo.html or this ua-cam.com/video/72t7EuLvDaQ/v-deo.html there are other ways to approach this as well. Downloading icc profile from paper manufacture is not a bad idea either.
Thank you Art. I am new to monitor calibration and will be using the i1display pro on my apple laptop soon.
Can you please speak to the 'ambient light smart control' setting and the impact of ambient light in general?
Once i calibrate the screen is that calibration only valid for when using the laptop in the same ambient light as it was when it was calibrated? What is the impact of variable ambient light on screen calibration and colour accuracy? etc. Thank you so much for your videos!
You're welcome. Recommendation for ambient light smart control is to turn it off and leave it off. It is a common misconception and a feature that is drummed up by engineer who does not color edit in the real world. Your screen brightness should always remain the same when you are doing color critical work, regardless of the environment that you are in. This is the reason why I showed the brightness changing method by counting the notches. If your environment is too bright and the screen looks dark, then you have to find a new environment to do color critical edit in or control the lighting in that environment and not the other way around where the screen get adjusted. Don't get me wrong for casual work, UA-cam, web browsing, etc, you can change the screen brightness but for color critical work it should be brought down to match the value that you have set during calibration.
@@ArtIsRight Thank you
👍🏼
Hi Art, just wondering what Calibrite should I buy for my MacBook Air 2020? Pro or Plus? Going to use it for editing photos on Lightroom. The MacBook Air is just to take around whenever I travel. Thank you in advance.
ColorChecker Display Pro
What? 5 bars down from the max? I've always edited at like 4 bars (from min) and that was on my iMac 2011 which for sure has less nits because it's old. Now on my M1 Air I also like to use at it around 4-5 bars. I also use my TV and phone on very low brightness settings. I never understood how people were able to edit at full brightness, that feels like a supernova to me.
Do you happen to have an estimate at how many bars to use the M1 Air?
Btw a very good channel, thanks for the effort you put in 🙂 I'm gonna watch some of your other videos on calibration.
I don't have a number for the air but I would guess 6 down from max will get you around 80-100 nits.
I have an iMac and was going to purchase a X-Rite Display Pro Plus to calibrate the iMac’s screen (while also dimming/blacking out my room.)
Once that’s calibrated and the color profile is loaded onto my computer via system preferences…Would I then open up Lightroom and under soft proofing/print open up the FujiFilm Deep Matte profile (thats what I’d like to print with).
I guess what Im asking is, would I be using two profiles? One to get a baseline correct color system wide. And then the printing profile to dial it in specifically for this printer service?
You have the correct idea. What is going to happen is that LR will be using the display profile to render the photos and the colors for you. When you apply soft proofing in LR it is going to load and simulate what that picture would look like with the Fuji deep Matts profile. This is done by color conversion via your display profile to the Fuji did my profile. If you have any follow up please let me know :)
Hi Art, I’m using the new ccdisplay pro and ccprofiler software ver 1.1xx The mac is a mbp with M1 chip. Ive been using this setup for months now. But one question, is the software running natively or with Rosetta?
Got cha, so yes the software is the same, all of the options that I showed in this video is still valid for ccProfilier. i1Profilier has printing features so there may be some additional elements but otherwise, they are identical. As far as Mac goes, if you have the plain M1 in the 13" chassis then yes the calibration works just fine. If you have the 14 & 16" MBP then you need to use the videos in this playlist ua-cam.com/play/PLjlr8rlxl_q5jBT6sp5aUrTfctBJ4U43J.html
As far as Native or Rosetta, the answer does not change the function of the program, since these are lighter program anyway. However, as of this answer, it is still Rosetta.
Nice video Arti:) i was always wondering what gamma does the new imac 5k use?
Gamma is 2.2
@@ArtIsRight so they are using p3 with 2.2 gamma?
DCI P3 and Gamma 2.2 that is correct.
@@ArtIsRight Hi:)asking for a friend who is using an imac 5k.. He said he thinks his imac is calibrated at 2.6 gamma because he is editing a lot of video and he did the calibration that way (DCI P3 but 2.6 gamma).So the question is ..if he edit a photo in photoshop for the web ,without changing the display settings..do you think in camera raw he should choose srbg or adobe rgb? and for mac users do you think they can still get good results in photoshop for web photos?:)
I would have him test out the result from PS and LR in this situation. I don't think that going from 2.2 to 2.6 is too big of deal, the screen will look a bit more contrasty with blacks being darker but for web and internet use it should be less of an issue. For print, this may not be the case. The gamma can be changed via profile with software calibration. As far as I know Mac uses 2.2 gamma which is the industry standard but I have heard video editors using gamma other 2.2 for video work. For me I edit all my work at the default gamma of 2.2 :)
Could you make tutorial how to calibrate Macbook Pro using Spyder X ?
I'll see what I can do.
Thanks a lot for the video. Since the iMac 2020 supports HDR up to 500+ nits values, it would be helpful to see a video on calibration for HDR content, where the color gamut, color temperature and bit depth are different than Rec.709/sRGB.
Already did that video, watch here ua-cam.com/video/gGJeRJVlRkI/v-deo.html :)
@@ArtIsRight Thanks a lot for your prompt response.
The video on the link above in your reply is in reference to calibrating an external display for HDR. My suggestion is based in calibrating the actual iMac 2020 screen for HDR content, no SDR/Rec.709/2.4/sRGB.2.2
And yes the principal and settings are exactly the same. Calibrate and set the luminance to native with HDR mode on. It does not matter what the HDR screen is the methodology is the same.
@@ArtIsRight Thank you!
:)
I watched another one of your tutorials about macbook pro calibration. Before you ran the software, your turned up the the screen brightness to full. then you ran the software. On this vid I didn't see you brighten the screen to full prior to running the software. I don't want to lose any sleep over this "conflict". Which method should I choose? I will calibrate my iMac 27 inch 5K desktop. Thank you for your informative vids.
Method is the same and yes turn it up all the way. at 7:00 mark when I show the adjustment I already had it turned up all the way, which is why it probably was not mention. And then just bring it down from full brightness to get the correct, repeatable calibration.
hello sir ,what screen technology should I use for MacBook Air m1 13inch?
pfs phosphor
HI Are you using the X-rite studio or PRO version. thanks
This video is i1Profiler, which is the pro version, if you like to see the studio version go here ua-cam.com/video/Qjmjw7wvtc4/v-deo.html
There is a way to achieve finer brightness increments (and volume) in quarters by pressing Shift + Option followed by the brightness keys
Yes there is, I made another video about it already
But that kind of granularity is not necessary repeatable and if you can do it, it can be annoying quick, so I would forego it on laptops.
Will this work for an older Apple Thunderbolt Display running on a Macbook Pro M1 Max?
Yes I would use this method with previous generation Thunderbolt Displays.
Do you have tutorials with the SpyderX??
There's no confirm planned at the moment. This may change in the future.
Hey thanks for the video. So I notice the trend is actually going up. You mentioned you would recalibrate if this were to happen. What settings would be different to get the trend to go down.
Same setting to see if the uptrend is an error. Also if the up trend is still under 2 you are fine. If it starts to trend upwards over time then you probably want to have a closer look at your display.
@@ArtIsRight okay thank you for responding so quickly. You are amazing at what you do.
Thanks!
halo AtrIsRight, my display pro can't measure to the right d65, when I try to adjust Kelvin 6500 it's not correct I get, the monitor too magenta, and I was trying to different monitor and still the same, what I must do?
What display do you have, some display in the low end to mid tier cannot do this well. Start by resetting your display to factory and try again. If that does not work it might be the display capability itself.
art, i calibrated my M1 macbook pro earlier using your guide...now the process leads to a black screen...is it that Ventura 13.5 is having compatibility issues...am using iProfiler 3.7.0.17443...am unsure of previous version of profiling software from x-rite
Not sure what happened there, I don't think there are any compatibility issues. Without seeing the settings and specs it is difficult for me to access what may be causing this.
Hi Art, I'm curious what you recommend for the lighting environment one would be editing in using their calibrated display? For reference, I am using the 2015 iMac 27" 5k display in an office with 2 windows, which obviously are changing with the day's current lighting situation or weather condition. The windows have blinds on them that are shut at all times, but by no means are they room darkening, as there is still an adequate amount of ambient lighting coming through them. Only one of them faces the screen side of my computer, and it reflects off the left corner while I edit. Should I put blankets/room darkening curtains over them to maintain a controlled lighting situation? I would love to know your advice on this subject.
Also, I have followed your calibration advice with the i1Display Profiler and I do not allow the computer or software to do any automatic lighting adjustments according to room environment.
It is good that you don't have your display change with the ambient. This said you don't need to be in a total dark room or even dim lit room. Your setup seems fine. What I would do is choose a curtain color that is neutral this way the light coming in won't bias or change the ambient too much. Also if you want to darken out one of the windows you can especially if it bother or interrupt your work but it is not necessary.
@@ArtIsRight Thank you so much for your insight on this! I appreciate it!
:)
Will calibration make my images look more accurate when I send them to my phone for Instagram upload?
That is an incorrect premise and should not be the reason why you want to calibrate. Here's why ua-cam.com/video/QmyDEHNB1pQ/v-deo.html
Thank you for your wonderful and informative video. I just received my first calibration device the Xrite i1Pro. I print and sell almost everything I shoot. I also use an 2019 iMac 27 ret. The room I edit in is near a very large picture window. The window is behind my screen but the light is always changing in the room, clouds, night, etc... In your video you make the choices to manually change the brightness. The specific reason I bought the i1 was for the automatic ambient light adjustment feature. I have a mental disability that prevents me from reading and comprehending new information. Is there a video I can watch several times to set up my new i1to take advantage of this feature. Again, thank you very much for your time in making such wonderful video's.
Hi Lori, thank you for the message. So there's a very specific reason why I don't use the ambient light feature in X-Rite or any product and that is because your display brightness should also be a set - fixed value relative to print, it should never change regardless of the environment. What I recommend doing instead is to control the lighting in the environment so that it does not get to bright when you are doing color critical work. Ambient light features can have adverse effect on the print out where the display looks normal to your visual perception relative the environmental brightness but when compared to print it is much brighter than a printed image. You can certainly give that feature a try but I highly advise against it. Every now and then there are features and use cases that engineers come up with, but it does not necessary make sense for practical use, this is one of them.
@@ArtIsRight Thank you so very much for spending the time to write such a detailed reply to me. I will follow your advice and find a set brightness level. I am the local public school photographer. I give our students 13x19 prints of themselves reaching their goals and scoring touchdowns. With your sound advice I hope to continue bringing smiles to their faces... especially now their faces wont be gray.lol. Thanks again and I'll look for your next one. Very easy to understand and a great pace for rewinding. Special!
You're welcome, if you have any questions in the future please reach out.
Hopefully last question. I use all Canon equipment. 3, 1D Mk4's and only L lenses, 200mm 2.0, 300mm2.8 and 400mm2.8 for my sports photography. I get wonderful lifelike colors from these and I print on 2 printers. Pro100 for sports and pro10 (pigment)for landscapes. Question is during profile set up the defaults are D65 / 120cd / 2.20 gama. Would you recommend me changing these to D50 / 80cd / 2.20 gama. im more concerned with getting accurate monitor to print. I understand the paper has to have the correct profiles and am familiar with those attributes. Thank you again for helping me.
If you want simple stick with D65 setting, if your print is too dark then calibrate the screen for a dimmer brightness, range of 80-120 will work well. D50 is more for press and pro printing house, for what you do D65 is easier to match. What you want to do as well is get a lamp with LED light bulb that is calibrated to D65 or a LED light bank that can be adjusted to D65 for viewing the prints. Otherwise you are set, again feel free to follow up anytime.
I've been using my i1DisplayStudio for years and for some reason the program (i1Studio) can't recognize my device. Is there something new with ventura that the program doesn't like? My program is up to date as well
Try the updated ColorChecker Studio software from Calibrite. i1Studio has not been maintained from sometime now. www.calibrite.com
Is this still valid if you are calibrating your external BenQ SW320 with Palette Master. In Other words, is there an issue with using Palette Master for the BenQ and X-Rite for the Laptop Display?
Not at all, in fact that is the best way to calibrate these 2 displays. Don't expect them to match though ;) Different displays tech and all.
Excellent video Art. Super helpful. I have a macbook pro 2017, followed your steps to the latter. However, mine didn't pass the delta test of minimum 2 and maximum 5 delta. It did pass for minimum 2 and maximum 6. Does this matter a lot? Also observed that i had a high patch of 5.1 unlike yours that most of your patches were below 0. Please advice on what steps to take to correct it. I earlier tried leaving my luminance at 100 instead of 80 but experienced same issue.
Did you do this yet? ua-cam.com/video/hDHBodulVbw/v-deo.html turn off True Tone and auto brightness?
@@ArtIsRight Yes I did. My MacBook doesn't have the true tone feature displayed on it, so couldn't turn that off or on. However, every other direction was followed
@@ArtIsRight Would love to reach out to you with screenshots please if you don't mind. Is it fine to chat you up on Instagram maybe? Calibrated my monitor and experienced the same issue.
Yes please insta me or Facebook page or email, either one works.
@@ArtIsRight Thank you Art. Did just that. Sent you a message on Instagram. Fingers crossed. Anticipating your reply and directions.
Hi Art, I would like to streamline the accuracy of my color printing. Am I correct in understanding that the only real method to do this (with X-Rite) is to use the X-Rite i1Studio Spectrophotometer? Thank you.
There are other devices, but the best starting out device is i1Studio, and if you want more advanced control outline here ua-cam.com/video/-yreR-Lc1-M/v-deo.html then you might consider more advanced device such as the i1Photo Pro 3
@@ArtIsRight Thanks Art, the i1 Studio is pricey enough for the moment, lol. So thank you, that's probably where I will begin. I watched one of your print/paper profiling videos last night. Excellent information. I'll be watching it again when I'm ready to pull the trigger on the unit. Thanks again. d
You're welcome
Hello! My MacBook pro got so dark in luminance with 100 cd/m2(( it required 5 steps downward to lower initial luminance and i can barely see anything on the screen
if you are going to print you should use this setting, if you are casually using it then just change the brightness to suite your needs. If you are using the laptop in a bright environment, then you need to adjust the display brightness.
I have a BenQ SW271 next to my 2015 iMac. Would you recommend to calibrate both monitors with Palette Master Element? Or only calibrate the SW271 with PME and the iMac with i1Profiler? Thanks in advance.
The latter, SW271 with PME and iMac with i1Profiler. PME won't calibrate the iMac. ua-cam.com/video/REGRfFdLYFM/v-deo.html
@@ArtIsRight thx a lot!
:)
i have some question for you about True Tone in the Display in my case i don't have it, i am using IMAC macOS Big Sur 2014.
also i fase problem while calbration late time that my seceen look dim, i try different luminance options but there is no difference so i pic 250cd/m and leve my brightness sit in teh maximum, Iam not sure in than right or not!
If you don't have it, don't worry about it. Luminance wise you have to change it manually, I would follow this guide. max brightness is not advise for pro workflow
what your suggestion?
80-120nit
Learned a lot from your videos. Wonder why you use 80 for luminance. A couple of other videos mention that X-rite recommends using 100 for laptops and 120 for desktops. When I had my old Color Munki Display, I set luminance at 120 for calibrating both my MacBook Pro and Dell monitor because the lab which prints my images calibrated their equipment at 120 and recommended that I do the same-is that necessary? Also, the lab prints are always darker than what I see on my monitor, is that expected? Can changing the luminance setting correct that problem? Thanks in advance.
Wonder why you use 80 for luminance. A couple of other videos mention that X-rite recommends using 100 for laptops and 120 for desktops
The key phase here is "Recommend," my range is broader 80-120 nits. I use 80 because it works for my editing and printing workflow. And I do work closely with X-Rite / Calibrate so what I am recommending is in line with their message.
When I had my old Color Munki Display, I set luminance at 120 for calibrating both my MacBook Pro and Dell monitor because the lab which prints my images calibrated their equipment at 120 and recommended that I do the same-is that necessary?
You can but it is not necessary.
Also, the lab prints are always darker than what I see on my monitor, is that expected?
And this is why I use 80 nits, so that is where you issue lies. 120 nits is too bright for you and is generally to bright overall as well for print.
Can changing the luminance setting correct that problem?
Yes
@@ArtIsRight Thanks again. I am brand new to the i1Display Pro. Watched an old Laura Shoe video and saw that you can measure the ambient light to find out what luminance setting is recommended. It turned out to be exactly 80! Cool! Saw this video "Imac & Macbook Pro Color Calibration MADE EASY" on UA-cam. It shows that you can go to Displays and choose Color, then hold down the option key and click Calibrate to calibrate my MacBook Pro. I did that. It'd be interesting to compare this profile with the one I am to make with the i1.
"...saw that you can measure the ambient light to find out what luminance setting is recommended."
If you print at all, don't do that. Your print does not change luminance, nor should your display with editing.
It turned out to be exactly 80!
Cool! Saw this video "Imac & Macbook Pro Color Calibration MADE EASY" on UA-cam. It shows that you can go to Displays and choose Color, then hold down the option key and click Calibrate to calibrate my MacBook Pro. I did that. It'd be interesting to compare this profile with the one I am to make with the i1.
Yeah that is not really calibration really, You can't really do this with out a proper instrument.
@@ArtIsRight "If you print at all, don't do that. Your print does not change luminance, nor should your display with editing." I am trying to understand what that means, I do edit my images in LR, but order prints from ProDPI. Earlier we had this exchange: Also, the lab prints are always darker than what I see on my monitor, is that expected? And this is why I use 80 nits, so that is where you issue lies. 120 nits is too bright for you and is generally to bright overall as well for print. Can changing the luminance setting correct that problem? Yes.
So, should I now just calibrate with luminance at 80, 90, 100..., edit the images, & print them to see which one gives me the best match? I am just confused about how I should proceed.
"If you print at all, don't do that. Your print does not change luminance, nor should your display with editing." I am trying to understand what that means, I do edit my images in LR, but order prints from ProDPI.
-This means that your print once it comes out from the printer has a fix, finite brightness. It does not change. The only variable that change is the lighting on the print, but with that the print brightness does not change just only how much light and what color of light is reflected on it. So with this in mind, if you print, you should never have your display adjust to ambient, it is like shooting to a moving target, this makes it difficult to color correct, because what you see is constantly changing based on ambient.
Earlier we had this exchange: Also, the lab prints are always darker than what I see on my monitor, is that expected? And this is why I use 80 nits, so that is where you issue lies. 120 nits is too bright for you and is generally to bright overall as well for print. Can changing the luminance setting correct that problem? Yes.
So, should I now just calibrate with luminance at 80, 90, 100..., edit the images, & print them to see which one gives me the best match? I am just confused about how I should proceed.
- You can do this but I would just start at 80, and see how that compares to the print that you have, you don't even need to order new prints. If the display is too dark then I would try 90, and 100, etc. But this would be your good starting point.
By the way I am getting so many comments that this thread is getting buried. So if you follow up please post a new comment or dm me on fb page or insta, this way I see it.
I have a brand new iMac that I've calibrated with this method and every single time it results in a green cast that's not consistent with my older more reliable iMac. Any suggestions?
So there are a few things to consider and one important thing is your perspectives, what you are used to may not necessary be correct. The green cast that you are seeing could be the accurate correction. This is hard to assess without seeing it in person. But I would highly encourage you to take what I just mention here into account. These program will calibrate your display to DCI-P3 but Apple tweeted their DCI-P3 calibration from reference default so that might be what you are seeing here.
Found this quite helpful yet I'm still having some trouble understanding some fundamentals.
On a MacBook Pro internal display, when working with rec.709 video, does your display have to be limited to rec.709? or are you only able to match the standard brightness and white point between your display and the rec.709 standard, and therefore the colours will be greater than rec.709? or is it actually possible to make the MacBook display only the colours specified by rec.709, dci-p3 etc standards?
Short answer is no and it is because of Color Management Module CMM watch this to find out more ua-cam.com/video/Yvu-sgddna0/v-deo.html
Furthermore you are heavily relying on CMM in software calibrated display such as the one build into to any laptops and all in one PC. These displays similar to most displays that are out there, once they have been calibrated from the factory at DCI-P3 or Display P3 they are stuck there you can't change the RGB primary on the display output. You may have notice that non of the software calibration program offer a selection of RGB primary before calibration. This is the reason why. Most computer programs are color aware which means that if your project is tagged with Rec 709 then it would show it to you in Rec 709 rather than the display color space.
@@ArtIsRight Thanks for the reply.
So if I understand that right, a properly calibrated display (for instance calibrated to display p3) will show the same image as a calibrated srgb display, if the image is srgb? if the image was then adobergb would you see more on the display p3 display as it's capable of more color?
Also in regards to programs like Davinci, surely the windows/Mac CMM is overridden by software such as that? or is that where decklinks for example come into play, as the only way to force an output in a specific color space is to use an external output not controlled by the OS?
First question, yes you have the correct premise. Second Question, most creative programs respect color profile, but Davinci does not really uses color profile at all, it is using the display output only so yes that is where the deck would come in. If you are using Adobe products then yes but for Davinci no the software color management would not override the OS.
@@ArtIsRight Thanks for your help! I'm slowly getting my head around this I think.
Does this mean an external monitor capable of rec 709 calibration, with an appropriate gpu or output device is really the only way to go if I want to be 100% sure? or is it fine to grade rec 709 on a d65 p3 display?
The former is the correct answer if you are using Davinci, for any other programs the latter is the correct answer.
Thx for the video but unfortunately it doesn't work in any way with i1Studio 'cause the settings like 'measuring' the whitepoint is not available in the used version 1.60, XRD 3.0.31
If you have the i1Studio or now ColorChecker Display Studio, ColorChecker Studio Color spectrophotometer, then you should be using ColorChecker Studio software and not i1Profilier or ccProfilier. Different device group and software set.
@@ArtIsRight Thank you but as far as I see there is no other software for the i1studio (discontinued!) available but the i1profiler. Sorry, doesn't work for me that way, but I found another option/solution. Thank you.
Not quite, Calibrite has take over i1Studio software and it is now ColorChecker Studio Software, you can get the software at this link calibrite.com/us/software-downloads/ And if you found another options or solution already then great! But the software is still current and exist!
@@ArtIsRight As mentioned it's (why ever) impossible. I downloaded the software from Calibrite (ccStudio) and installed it (after uninstalling the former version) but the device (as the software stated) is not supported. I run a system M1 Ultra with Monterey... device connected direct and it works fine with all my other systems... *shrug* I will return to my former softwareversion 'cause I use the i1Studio for printer profiling too and don't want to miss it. Thx for support and for the great videos/tutorials....
Thanks Art! I am using a 13-inch 2019 MacBook Air with Retina display, OS Big Sur 11.2.3. I have the i1DISPLAY PLUS. Why does my workflow have fewer steps than your demonstration?
Did you choose advanced mode in the very first screen?
@@ArtIsRight Aha, I missed that. Thank you. Your presentation is most helpful and informative.
:)
@@ArtIsRight A final 2-part question: Am I correct to assume 1) a calibrated monitor can be switched between casual and colour critical use without losing the X-Rite i1DISPLAY PLUS settings? 2) the X-Rite does not need to be connected when using the calibrated settings?
To keep life simple, there's nothing wrong with using color critical profile all the time. No need to switch, that just adds complications and more opportunity to forget to change the profile. When you change the profile you do that from the OS and the devices does not need to be plugged in and the program does not need to be running.
I just bought the new 2020 iMac 27". What i1 profiler should I purchase? I'm a photographer and I send my prints out to several different labs.
i1Display Pro or the Pro Plus. You can get the device from this link x-rite-photo.2rcf97.net/nYoe6 also if you are in the US, you can add me Facebook page or instagram and send me a message, I have a 10% off code that I can share when you purchase the device directly from xritephoto.com To be honest, the i1Display pro will serve you fine, you don't need the plus. :)
@@ArtIsRight Thank you!
@@ArtIsRight Would you give me the code? I'll get the Pro.
Just share the code on the chat thread!
Option-Shift-Keyboard Brightness Up/Down gives you small steps.
Yes I made a supplemental video about that. On MacBook Pro with Touch Bar you have to pull up the standard function keys first. Just tapping on the brightness key on the Touch Bar where the slider show up will not work. ua-cam.com/video/zjxvybCJHJo/v-deo.html
I keep having problems that say the software cannot install the profile to the library/ColorSync/profile. I have given permission to the software in "get info" and privacy settings, but still nothing. This is ridiculous... I just did a calibration same time around last year and it worked. Mac OS update must have changed a few things...or the software is just very buggy. Any advice on what I should do?
That sounds like a macOS change. What macOS version are you running and what is your i1Profiler version? System preferences - privacy and security - full disk access, I'm sure that you grant the permission already. Restart and try again. If the problem still persist contact your local x-rite support.
Hi. Can I do this with a Macbook Air?
Any apple laptop, so yes!
HI, it's me again. I don't have the BT1886 option for me to choose but only Standard, Custom and SRGB. I'm using V3.3.0 XRD version 3.0.128 MacBook Pro 2014 Mid 13" Retina. Waiting for your feedback, thanks and Appreciate.
Yes it would appeared that they removed that option in the latest version. From what I gathered BT1886 uses Gamma 2.4 so you can just set it at that or if you have another gamma level you that prefer you can set that manually as well.
ArtIsRight thank you very much, you’re the best
Any time
I have an update on this. So the if you have a i1Display Pro, it can't do BT1886 you need a i1Display Pro Plus for you to be able to use that setting.
@@ArtIsRight ahh I see and that make sense... and it is the same thing if I adjusted it to gamma 2.4? Thanks in advance
Thanks very much for your explanations. I notice after calibrating my new iMac with a new Xrite Pro that the photos are quite a lot darker in Lightroom. Presumably I am not allowed to turn the monitor brightness up without affecting the calibration? I set the calibration to 100 candela. What should I do exactly? Calibrate at 120 candela? The room is not very bright but certainly not very dark. I am wondering how prints would turn out, if sent to an external developer.
It is supposed to be darker if you have not calibrated before. In this situation you should not change the display but rather the image that you are editing. You can bring up the brightness by 20 nits but if you have an iMac 1 notch up does not necessary correspond to 20 nits in fact it might not even be linear, brightness is usually on a curve. So if you like calibrate it to 120 nits and if your images looks dark then you should increase the exposure in LR. If you are going to print I would not exceed 120 nits. Regarding external lab if you have them adjust the prints then it does not matter, if you don't, then you should have you display brightness precise. ua-cam.com/video/UmFxZKqtHts/v-deo.html
@@ArtIsRight Thanks very much. It is sometimes hard to understand calibration as an amateur. I will try calibrating to 120 nits.
I have been reading through your threads, which are very helpful and very interesting. Is it correct that before calibration the screen should be set to maximum brightness or should it be set to a comfortable level to view at that moment? If it has to be set to full brightness, how can one judge at which brightness level calibration should take place? By guessing?
Max brightness. If you click on this link it will take you to the correct time in the video ua-cam.com/video/JrPdvs2by04/v-deo.html You want to check on adjust brightness, contrast and RGB gain manually, and when you start the calibration process, it will do a measurement to which you will adjust the brightness and count how many notches from full bright you need to bring your display down so that it is showing the correct brightness.
@@ArtIsRight Hi Art, thanks again for your advice. How do I check on contrast and RGB gain manually before calibration?
I do follow your setting calibrate but I don't know why I get the magenta screen. I use MacBook Pro (15-inch, 2016)
Have you done these ua-cam.com/video/hDHBodulVbw/v-deo.html
@@ArtIsRight Yes, I do it still magenta same T T (I use i1Display Pro Plus)
Are you talking slight magenta or bad magenta?
@@ArtIsRight slight magenta
If it is light it may just be based on what you are used to seeing which is not necessary correct. It is not uncommon for display to be warmer once calibrated to specification. Apple DCI-P3 calibration always tend toward the blue side of things. Many times I notice my screen going slightly warmer, and this is normal. If your entire screen has a magenta hue then that is a big issue.
Is there a way to check the Adobe RGB % of a profile? I can see it visually in ColorSync Utility as you've shown at the end of the video, but I'm not seeing where or if it can show the percentage i.e 89% of Adobe 1998. If this is not possible with ColorSync Utility, do you know of another app that gives this info? Thank you!
You can't, there may be some website that you can load a profile and it will give you a percentage. But I would not worry about that matrix so much other than to be aware of what that value is.
@@ArtIsRight Thanks for the quick reply!
:)
Beautiful .. does this apply to iPhone or iPad ? i need to match the color between my MacBook and iPhone .. I still don’t know how to do it I’ve been searching for a year :(
Thank you and for iPhone or iPad, this won't help in that regards. It can't really be done.
@@ArtIsRight what i can do about this to at leaser get close colors.. as you know most people will see images through mobile or tablets and and as a photographer processing images from MacBook is essential .. I don’t know how all the photographers out there did that process image from the computer and share to social media without noticing different .. even my friend who has old MacBook didn’t have issue seeing the same colors in his iPhone .. but me with my MacBook Pro 2021 model is a different story
"as you know most people will see images through mobile or tablets and and as a photographer processing images from MacBook is essential"
Yes and no and not quite as essential as you might think. If the believe is that most of your target audience will have iPhone / iPad only then sure, but the reality is not this clear cut. So this is done to accommodate one brand, what about others. Also Apple does a great job calibrating their displays, but from iPhone to iPhone from even the same gen there are variations, not to mention when you cross gen you are looking at OLED vs LCD with traditional backlight. iPad wise is traditional LCD vs miniLED. I see where your thoughts are on this, however, I want to share the broader stroke with you.
".. I don’t know how all the photographers out there did that process image from the computer and share to social media without noticing different .. even my friend who has old MacBook didn’t have issue seeing the same colors in his iPhone .. but me with my MacBook Pro 2021 model is a different story"
Keyword here is social media, which uses their own rendering engine, compression, color space, etc. It will never look close or exact. This is a can of worm that you should not open. My advice is to get the image looking their best on the computer and once you upload it, let it be what it will be. Can't change that.
ua-cam.com/video/QmyDEHNB1pQ/v-deo.html
Also for your friends, it is just that they have not run into issues yet.
@@ArtIsRight Thank you for you kind and precious answers, and most importantly, bearing with me .. I hope you excuse my ignorance, but What I meant by essential is the need as a Photographer to use MacBook or PCs applications to process my images as the alternative mobile versions is not enough .. they lack many features especially Lightroom and Photoshop, i totally agree with you on how the image will look different in different devices and phones, but it will be in sort of acceptable range.. but my problem is that the The difference in colors, brightness etc is huge that it make it unusable.. and if upload it from my computer to instagram for example people will see image in a very different way than what I was planning in my mind when I processed it .. and yes most of my audience in social media in general will use their smart phones to view images .. and I don’t mean by that just Apple phones every other brands using android etc ..
So the bottom line is now after knowing all the information you provided is how can I know it’s not a problem of my Mac screen than needs to be calibrated ? Can I test it somehow or I should buy xrite and follow your calibrating video ? Because I genenuly believe there’s something I should do to fix this as possible as it can get
Thank you so much
@@Hsukhaybir "What I meant by essential is the need as a Photographer to use MacBook or PCs applications to process my images as the alternative mobile versions is not enough .. they lack many features especially Lightroom and Photoshop,"
Got cha and yes.
"i totally agree with you on how the image will look different in different devices and phones, but it will be in sort of acceptable range.. but my problem is that the The difference in colors, brightness etc is huge that it make it unusable.. and if upload it from my computer to instagram for example people will see image in a very different way than what I was planning in my mind when I processed it .. and yes most of my audience in social media in general will use their smart phones to view images .. and I don’t mean by that just Apple phones every other brands using android etc .."
I think we need to go back from the begging and look at your color workflow. What computer are you using, brand, laptop, desktop, display models, programs that you edit with, are you calibrating your displays? These would be a good place to start. On your phone do you have True Tone turned on if you have an apple phone our if you have Samsung is vivid mode on, there are just 2 samples of variables that can change the way how an image look and every one, will have these toggled on or off along with other settings that you can't control and more so, have no control over who views your images and how they set their phone screen. Then we have the conversation of Apple vs Android, Apple calibrate their screen fairly well, Android, it is just all over the map. This is the can of worm that I am talking about, there's no containing it. Sure you may say, I would take my edit on a computer and do final tweaks on the phone, yes you can do that but it would really only look good on your phone, and mostly likely not others.
"So the bottom line is now after knowing all the information you provided is how can I know it’s not a problem of my Mac screen than needs to be calibrated ? Can I test it somehow or I should buy xrite and follow your calibrating video ?"
You can buy a calibrator and I encourage you to do that but the reality is that if you have an Apple display, will the color change, yes, but not much, just slightly. Is there a test, yes and no, but it would depends on what you want to test. If you can calibrate your display and validate it so that the ∆e is under 2 then you know what you are looking at is good and then, this is the hard part, being able to let go of the fact that it still won't help much with a match to mobile devices.
Because I genenuly believe there’s something I should do to fix this as possible as it can get
Thank you so much
After I had calibrate MacBook Pro 2017 using Spyder X Pro it looks warmer or yellowish. Does it also looks warmer or yellowish after calibrate using X-Rite i1 Profiler ?
Yes Apple Calibration are on the blue side. What you are seeing seems normal
@@ArtIsRight If I have calibrate MacBook Pro using i1Display Pro Plus does it also got warmer or yellowish too ?
You will
@@ArtIsRight Yesterday when I asked about it in a forum someone replied but I don't known does it correct or not. Here are his replied.
My MacBook Pro 2016 ( Retina, P3 display ), uncalibrated, has a color temperature of 7023K ( how do I know this ? I just switched it to an uncalibrated state and measured it ), which is 523K above the calibration target. It certainly is far from calibrated to a 6500K whitepoint out of the box.
Calibrating this display, by scientific definition, changes the color. That change is, by scientific definition, warmer and yellower, relative to the uncalibrated display.
These changes are what they are; and they are relative to one another.
If you were starting off with a display whose native color temperature was 6000K, and that's what you were used to seeing as the "normal" color of display, and they you calibrated it to 6500K, then you would say the calibrated display was becoming colder / bluer.
If you calibrate a 6500K. native display to 6500K, there will be a barely imperceptible, if any, shift in the calibrated whitepoint. ( That would be true of certain desktop displays that are factory calibrated close to 6500K, but not to a MacBook Pro 2016 or 2017, for instance ). Depending on how well calibrated the starting point of that type of display is, you might see "no" change in the look of the display, before and after calibration.
As you calibrate displays to lower color temperatures ( Kelvin is "color temperature" ), by definition, the look of the display becomes progressively warmer. If you were to calibrate to higher color temperatures, the look would become progressively colder. A display calibrated to 5500K looks even warmer than 6500K. Calibrate to K in the 3000's and it's strongly yellow.
Because : science.
If a display doesn't become warmer after calibration, and there's no change in the color temperature of the calibrated whitepoint, then it was already at or very near 6500K, if that was the calibration target used.
A 7000K+ display calibrated down to 6500K is by definition going to be warmer relative to where it started.
That answer is correct. And it is inline with what I told you about most, if not all apple computer displays and it is that the ship from the factory with much more blue. So when you calibrate it would be warmer. Color temperature aside, another thing that also effect this blue as well is gamut, DCI-P3 is bias toward compared to Display P3. So what you are seeing is normal but more precise and correct compared to uncalibrated. And like he said everything is relative, this is something that I tell newly calibrated folk all the time, what you are used to is not necessary a good reference nor is it the correct color.
So i got a macbook air m1 with deltaE below 1! All patches avg 0.4, all patches max 0.8. But its all Dcip3 not adobe rgb, i want to edit photos for print. Would i benefit buying a benq sw321c or is my macbooks deltaE results already insanely good? I feel like these results dont mean anything if i am in the wrong color gamut
Yes and no. So what you are getting is an accurate P3 gamut, which is good. If you want to work in Adobe RGB gamut then SW displays are an excellent choice. This said, I would try out the laptop display first and see how that looks vs print before you go you and buy a SW. Don't get me wrong, I love for every pro to have one but it is better to expand into tool out of a known and tested need, rather than jumping into things first without giving it a test. :) hope this helps.
@@ArtIsRight it does, thanks. I also have an lg c2 oled, perhaps i can calibrate this to srgb.
If that is a TV then you are limited to mostly just P3 or whatever the factory color calibration was.
@@ArtIsRight yes 42"TV but it has 3d lut hardware calibration, doesnt that help? You said the software calibration is the limit, i thought with hardware calibration i could resolve this? Also got a service remote to turn off all kinds of auto brightness bs. Thanks for responding!!
For that it depends, I would check to see what software is compatible to write that LUT. In general, they might require the use of CalMan or some other software, I'm not certain.
hi ART, I'm a web designer. I can't work with brightness below 70%. I see everything too dark. This also applies to the external monitor. When caliber if I put the luminosity between 80 and 120 nit I see everything not very bright. I am used to working in low ambient light and if I decrease the brightness of the display too much, I see little. am I wrong something? thank you very much for your videos. greeting from Rome
That percentage number is relative to each display, meaning that it is different for every display. Do you design for web only or for print as well. If you do print you don't want to exceed 160 nits max. If you design for web only they you have more latitude for brightness. But either way I would go with the colorimeter read out rather than the percentage on the display.
@@ArtIsRight ok .. so are you telling me to have my x-rite colorimeter evaluate the ambient light? after calibration is there a way to know via the i1 profile how much sRGB or DCIP3 color space my monitor covers?
Nope, ambient light is one of the most counter productive color management tool in the program. Don't use it. You don't want your colors and brightness all over the place. Pick a candela cd/m^2 or nit value and stick with it. About coverage percent. Just go by display spec. ICC can only approximate.
Does this work on Zpple XDR Pro Display?
It will work but XDR does have its own calibration methodology as well support.apple.com/en-us/HT210804 I have not test this our so ymmv.
On my Mac version 10.15 I cannot get the I profiler to get the settings as displayed in you’re video. Every time I open This developer app it says I need a update I have updated the app to the version of my Mac app still won’t load up do you have any suggestions on how to get this working on my Mac my Mac is 64 bit but the x rite only supports 32 bit , how can I rectify this issue. thank you in advanced. Tony
Are you downloading it from this link / site www.xrite.com/service-support/downloads/i/i1profiler-i1publish_v3_3_0 this has been working on my Catalina OS just fine. Let me know.
Thanks I will
:)
Hi @artisright ! I just did this test and for black luminance I received 0.00 and for contrast ratio it shows n/a! I am on a 2019 MacBook Pro with touchbar and used the iprofiler 3.2.1 and idisplay Pro plus. Any idea why this is?
Not sure why but if you can get black luminance to 0 that is is great. Contrast Ratio, I have been getting n/a as well. As long as the calibration is good you are ok.
ArtIsRight Also, is the expectation to leave the brightness of the screen the same when you edit and color grade? (Example: You go down 6 notches of brightness during calibration, do you then maintain that brightness level always while editing or do you just go down 6 notches just for the calibration and then you can have your brightness set to wherever you’d like during editing?
When doing color critical work do the 6 notches down, when doing other non color critical things set the brightness at any level that you like.
ArtIsRight thanks Art, you’re the best!!! Love your videos! This information is so invaluable! Thank you for giving back!
You're welcome and anytime.
I really want to calibrate my IMac 27" 5k screen so that my photo's on my screen match the printed output/prints but having watched may videos of yours and others I am not sure how I should go about this. I was going to buy the i1 Display Pro but at the end of this video it seems to suggest that won't do the job. Really what I am asking is, with the IMac i have and for accurate prints of my photo's will the x-rite i1 Display Pro achieve good results. Certainly my prints without any sort of calibration to date don't match what i see on screen.
Your iMac display will do just fine. I would calibrate it. It won't be as good as a hardware calibrate display, but it will do the job just fine. To find out about the differences, check this video out ua-cam.com/video/9hVfwW9LK8E/v-deo.html This said i1Display Pro is a fantastic device. Once you calibrate the display it will show closer to the print but it won't match 100%, it never will. Another thing too that I would suggest is to view your print under a lightbulb with matching white point of the display which is D65. i.e. these videos will go over the light and provide links to buy in the description, if you use LR ua-cam.com/video/MpB75oJzcNM/v-deo.html, if you use PS ua-cam.com/video/4fEzUMCwZyo/v-deo.html
@@ArtIsRight that's really helpful and just what I needed. I will calibrate out using the i1 display Pro. I will also look at the other recommended videos you mention. Thank you so much for getting back to me, very much appreciated.
Anytime!
@@ArtIsRight Hello again. I took your advice and bought the X-Rite i1 Display Pro and calibrated my screen. Quite a simple process thanks to your videos and what I believe to be the important results were an Average Delta E for all patches of 0.4 and a max for all patches of 1.1. The white point came out at 6446 and i am wondering if that is too far off 6500 and i should re-calibbrrate or whether that is fine. I haven't obtained a print yet but I am fairly confident it will be a lot better than what i have been getting without calibration but we shall see. From the darkest using my screen brightness controls it has taken it up 6 increases, if that makes sense and I wonder if that is a little dark and corresponds with the fairly low white point of 6446 or whether it will be ok. Perhaps it's because its new to me that it looks dark but will work better for processing and i can simply increase the brightness when using for other things like UA-cam etc. Anywa, if you have time let me know what you think. Sorry to have troubles you again. Best Wishes, Chris.
Hi Chris no worries. For a faster response in the future please start a new comment :) When you comment on these old thread, there's not really an easy way for me to see it especially on older comments. Either way, with what you told me you should be good! I wound not worry too much about a few double digits difference in the white point.
for non-professionals, is it necessary to recalibrate 5K iMac every few years?
It depends on how much you care about color, panel do drift over time. Driver changes with OS update also can change the color output on the display as well.
@@ArtIsRight thank you for your insight on the question. I wonder how much degradation after 2-3 years on 5K iMac. Perhaps you can make a video on the topic. :)
Little
I can't calibrate my MacBook air the studio software is not detecting my lcd screen. what should I do?
Are you running on the new M1 Mac, the only thing that you can do is wait until an update come along.
@@ArtIsRight Yes I'm running the new m1 Macbook air.
This video will go over everything that you need to know ua-cam.com/video/KXIKRLLVCw4/v-deo.html
I will never work with crApple hardware or software personally but any which way this tutorial is exelent and goes beyond calibrating a crApple device. In that regard it's worth paying attention wether you have or have not hardware from the infamous dollar pusher.
Thanks!
Does the device work with Windows 11?
yes
Wow
:)
do you have solution why am i getting magentaish color cast? using macbook pro
How old is your MBP? What year, model?
@@ArtIsRight 2011 sir thanks
How strong is the magenta cast, it could be a compensation from the measuring device paired with the backlight technology. You may want to try changing the back light technology and see if calibrates better.
ArtIsRight ok sir, try what you said in video, default screen type. ill let the prog choose. i think its cfl or white led.
ok
Why not calibrate pro xdr display
You can calibrate the Pro XDR that way too. I can't demo that because I am too poor to buy one ;)
@@ArtIsRight I'm talking about calibrate xdr with the device in the list from apple. You can buy one and return it.I'm sure you can easily find one from someone around you
:)
Thank you!
You're welcome
What brightness level would you recommend for a 5k 27" iMac?
if you print 80 cd/m^2 if not then 100 will work too.
ArtIsRight Thanks for the reply. I’m currently using 7 tick marks of brightness, and it seems to be okay. Wouldn’t 100% be too bright? Just looking for your advice on the perfect screen brightness. I send my photos off to a professional printer.
What I meant was 100 cd/m^2 not 100% so the range of 80 - 100 will work just fine :)
ArtIsRight I appreciate the reply back. So, how many tick marks is that? I don’t have the screen calibration tool, I’m setting it manually from the screen brightness buttons.
That would depend on your laptop, it is hard to say each are slight different. For most apple laptop it is about 5-7.