i thought that this was some european channel until i spotted the ph12 engine code, well made video and very helpful as i need to replace my clutch cylinder soon
you didn't need to shave a 9mm wrench to fit, simply buy a 3/8" wrench, its sits in between a 10 and 9mm. Japanese use Imperial sizes, with the larger nuts you can get away with using Metric wrenches aka in mm, but with the smaller sizes, you should use imperial or you risk rounding off the nut
Nice video! My client's own had a similar issue so I bleed the clutch and still to no avail. I've even replaced only the kit inside the upper clutch but the problem of a sponge clutch and no gear still persist. I've checked scrutingly for signs of leakage carefully while someone press the clutch pedal and found out that the down clutch nipple doesn't hold clutch hydraulic fluid! It goes out gently, and also the clutch fluid was replaced with a new one. Nevertheless, it's still very darkened in color. Please, how do I fix the issues? Darkened fluid, soft clutch pedal, and a most especially the leak at the down clutch bleeder or nipple.
It's always better to have it right away so that your clutch fork and slave cylinder push rod will be protected from dirt and debris. The grease in between the fork and push rod will get contaminated without it. If you don't have access to get a dust boot, you can still drive without any problem at all. Once you get a dust boot, just install it right away. Make sure everything is clean, grease is free from dirt before installing the dust boot.
The main problem that arises from this is usually a "squeak" when you press the clutch pedal, as that ball on the end rubs inside its joint on the clutch fork, if the grease is dirty or if there isn't enough.
Since I opened the system and I would just eventually dismantle it, it's not a bad idea to let it drain some old fluid. Also, I don't want the old fluid with particles to get into the new system.
I decided to replace it as a preventive maintenance. It has a very little leak which indicates a failing clutch slave cylinder. There are not that much of a noticeable symptom when driving. Just check it visually for leaks, broken rubber boot and gradual decrease of clutch fluid.
No…..don’t drain all the fluid. Just do a quick swap. Then flush so you don’t have to try and get all the air out. Also getting dirty degreaser in to your clutch plate is a bad idea.
This could be a trapped air in between the lines. Try bleeding on the clutch line instead of the bleeder valve. If nothing happens, try checking the other cylinder, could be the master or slave cylinder perhaps one is not working properly.
This is how clear of instruction videos must be . Good job . I can go change my clutch line and cylinder.
Thank you very much! Appreciate it! Good luck and take care.
Awesome instructions, with tips, sources of parts, even wrench sizes and how to modify a tool to avoid buying a specialized tool.
Thank you so much. Made my day!
So far the best professional video i have gotten by now on that part! Thanks man god bless you and your Family 🙏
i thought that this was some european channel until i spotted the ph12 engine code, well made video and very helpful as i need to replace my clutch cylinder soon
you didn't need to shave a 9mm wrench to fit, simply buy a 3/8" wrench, its sits in between a 10 and 9mm. Japanese use Imperial sizes, with the larger nuts you can get away with using Metric wrenches aka in mm, but with the smaller sizes, you should use imperial or you risk rounding off the nut
I see. That's really useful. I really appreciate your comment. Thanks a lot!
Solid insight
I can do now by myself..thank you for sharing us..i will watch later how can i bleed it..thank you
Excellent video. 1998 honda prelude. Slave cylinder replacement soon
Great video man! Very clear and informative. Time to go replace mine!
Good video. The cylinder is similar to Honda Fit GD's part.
I see! Thank you!
Nice video! My client's own had a similar issue so I bleed the clutch and still to no avail. I've even replaced only the kit inside the upper clutch but the problem of a sponge clutch and no gear still persist.
I've checked scrutingly for signs of leakage carefully while someone press the clutch pedal and found out that the down clutch nipple doesn't hold clutch hydraulic fluid! It goes out gently, and also the clutch fluid was replaced with a new one. Nevertheless, it's still very darkened in color. Please, how do I fix the issues?
Darkened fluid, soft clutch pedal, and a most especially the leak at the down clutch bleeder or nipple.
I have a 95 D15b7 engine.
Is this the same? He did say D series.
My 07 civic clutch pedal is so hard. Will changing this soften it?
Buen vídeo y gráficamente bien explicado con detalle 👍🏻
Muchas gracias!!
Ang Galing! 🙏 Salamat Po.
What if it doesn’t have a flare nut and has a pin instead? I got the old one out but I can’t get the new pin back in, any tips?
Thank you so much for sharing bro!
Where do you buy your parts, which store to buy genuine part?
Great video! question did you have to push the push rod in when installing it? I notice if i dont push it the wholes on the bottom do not line up?
Nope. I just simply insert it and the holes matched. If that's the case then you can just simply push it a little bit until the bottom matches.
yo bro did everything work fine with you having to push the rod in some when bolting cylinder on?
I was wondering if I needed the dust boot right away or can I go a little bit without it?
It's always better to have it right away so that your clutch fork and slave cylinder push rod will be protected from dirt and debris. The grease in between the fork and push rod will get contaminated without it. If you don't have access to get a dust boot, you can still drive without any problem at all. Once you get a dust boot, just install it right away. Make sure everything is clean, grease is free from dirt before installing the dust boot.
The main problem that arises from this is usually a "squeak" when you press the clutch pedal, as that ball on the end rubs inside its joint on the clutch fork, if the grease is dirty or if there isn't enough.
Dinos tu procedimiento de purgar brooo plis
What is the thing floating in the reservoir? I don’t have one.
That is a floater. As far as I know, it is there to prevent the master cylinder from sucking air when the fluid goes extremely low.
Nice job
Thank you very much!
Thank you👍🏽
Thank you too!
Why do you drain the oil when trying to do is bleed the clutch
Since I opened the system and I would just eventually dismantle it, it's not a bad idea to let it drain some old fluid. Also, I don't want the old fluid with particles to get into the new system.
Hello! How did you know that you have to replace that part? What was the symptom when you were driving?
I decided to replace it as a preventive maintenance. It has a very little leak which indicates a failing clutch slave cylinder. There are not that much of a noticeable symptom when driving. Just check it visually for leaks, broken rubber boot and gradual decrease of clutch fluid.
Mainly soft pedal and hard to engage gears
@@White-lz2joI have that exact problem, turns out it was leaking.
@@White-lz2joShouldn’t soft pedals be good?
No…..don’t drain all the fluid. Just do a quick swap. Then flush so you don’t have to try and get all the air out. Also getting dirty degreaser in to your clutch plate is a bad idea.
My bad. Never thought of it. Thanks!
Make a video then 🤣
my cylinder isn’t moving at all ? I replaced that and it wont bleed now
This could be a trapped air in between the lines. Try bleeding on the clutch line instead of the bleeder valve. If nothing happens, try checking the other cylinder, could be the master or slave cylinder perhaps one is not working properly.
Absolutely get a slave cylinder with a double ring double seal piston with two O rings You need to be double it possible
If something like that existed, I guess it would take even more years to break.
That brake fluid tho lol
Yeah, not good haha
I am a clutch hydraulic expert.....