Yes, that was my mistake. That t27 screw is just supposed to adjust the RESIDUAL pressure(the pressure when the engine is OFF). It is pointless to readjust that screw. I'm sorry, that was my bad. Just don't readjust that screw.
Cuáles son las presiones de trabajo del regulador de presión de combustible para un motor M110 de un 280 slc? Cuál sería el número de la pieza en caso se necesite reemplazar? Y si se puede utilizar un regulador alternativo?
Eso es algo que tendrás que ver en la tabla. Tengo esa tabla en un video sobre la WUR. No debe exceder los 5,6 bar de presión del sistema y los 3,8 bar de presión de control. ¡Algo como eso!
it is a great video , I bot new regulator and could not adjust to 5.4 bar it is always stays on 5.0 bar I did like you explained in video . Can you give me any idea way it is not adjusting. Thanks
what a great video man! My 260E has a really high fuel consumption (my car has 300 000 km)! No fuel leaks and I disconnected the cold start valve but the problem is still there. Do you think the fuel pressure regulator is the culprit? thank you!
Hi, thanks. Don't disconnect the cold start valve you will need it to start your car cold easier. As for the consumption - check the pumps, the fuel pressure regulator(find a pressure gauge and hook it up on the fuel distributor), check the injectors afterwards. If everything is fine, replace your lambda probe if you have never done it before, check the potentiometer also. So, let's begin 😁 the pumps must deliver you 6.1-6.3bar pressure(measured on the cold start valve), the working pressure 5.7-5.9bar(measured on the lower chamber). You must be allways in the range of 0.4bar difference. While the pressure gauge is on the lower chamber start the car and press the accelerator lever and press it up to half a way, if the pressure falls for more then 0.1bar, the fuel pressure regulator is bad. If the car doesn't "fire" and if your spark plugs don't get black and sooty, the injectors are fine. Then check the electronics-the lambda, the potentiometer(they increase the consumption). That would be it for now. Further watch my videos and if you have any additional questions just comment. Thanks for watching and "happy Mercedesing"😃😉
@@mercedeske hi, im having the same problem and actually the spark plugs a soo sooty and even letting the car run for a while stains the cabro pavers sooty black, what do i do? regards
It is a great video. I was suffering from a problem of delayed start-up, and I turned the allen screw twice clockwise using a 4.5 mm allen key ..and the results changed for the better. Is rotating twice clockwise correct and reassuring? Thanks.
Hi and thanks. As for that screw, what I didn't know then is that the screw just modifies the residual pressure. Maybe it was 2.7 and you increased it to approximately 3bar. Good thing I know that it helped you. Greetings
Great video. I've gor a 190e with m103 at the garage now. Veey hard to start most times a no start. Fuel is in my engine oil. Plugs are wet. So all this needs to be changed. Fuel tank cleaned out as well. I am wondering if this Fuel regulator could be my issue ? Mechanic thinks it could be this or perhaps a bad or faulty crank sensor making it go off timing as well. Cheers
Thanks. If you have a bad cold start then at first check the cold start valve and the coolant temperature sensor. If the plugs are wet, check the injectors. Happy Mercedesing 😃 🍀🤞🏻
I’ve got a pretty bad misfire in my 1995 SL500, and I was wondering if it’s a fuel pressure regulator issue or a distributor cap/rotor issue? I changed the spark plugs, and the caps and rotors look worn, but not extremely worn to the point where it’s obvious they’re the issue. Any help is greatly appreciated, thank you!
Odlican video.Meni je na regulatoru puklo gumeno crevo,pa me zanima da li moze da se popravi? Ako ne moze koja je cena novog regulatora,i gde moze da se kupi? pozdrav Aleksandar
Hvala ti, druže. Ne, kada crevo pukne samo zamena dolazi u obzir, jer tu onda dolazi do pada sistemskog pritiska, a kada pritisak na Ka Glavi padne, dolazi do gubitka snage. Sto se tice cene novog, meni su ovde u Srbiji trazili za Bošov 500evra😕😕😕. Ja sam ga platio podosta, oko 268$(30000din.). Uostalom, evo ti link sa ibeja(ebay), pa procesljaj, mislim da ces nesto naci povoljno i gledaj da deo bude kompatibilan sa tvojim kolima. Pozdrav, Ivica www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=0438161001&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&selvel=Year%3A1989%2CMake%3AMercedes-Benz%2CModel%3A190E%2CTrim%3A2.6%2BSedan%2B4-Door%2CEngine%3A2.6L%2B2599CC%2Bl6%2BGAS%2BSOHC%2BNaturally%2BAspirated%2CSubmodel%3A2.6%2CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.6L&_odkw=0438161001+1989+Mercedes-Benz+190E+2.6+2.6L&_osacat=0&selcontext=productType%3ACAR_AND_TRUCK
Aleksandre, od ovih sam ja kupio regulator. Video sam da je poskupeo. Samo sto ovde stoji da mozda ne salju u Srbiju. I kod njih je sada skuplje nego kada sam ja narucivao. Pozdrav www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-Mercedes-190E-300E-300SE-300SEL-300TE-Fuel-Regulator-BOSCH-0-438-161-001/190821234317?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Buenas noches, tengo una consulta..parece que mi regulador está tapado y/o no regresa al tanque o muy poco el combustible no utilizado, entonces eso hace que la bomba se caliente y funcione mal..que debo hacer? Hacia donde debo girar el tornillo con la llave torx para que fluya el combustible de regreso al tanque.
Buenas. No hay manera de hacer eso, solo reemplazar el regulador de presión. En cuanto al tornillo torx, solo determina la presión residual (motor apagado), nada más. El regulador de presión es malo si no puede mantener la presión del sistema constante, 6,5 bar en tu caso. También revise la válvula de retención de su bomba. Si se calienta, verifique el suministro de combustible (menos de 1 litro en 45 segundos: bomba de combustible defectuosa). "Bona fortuna"
Buenas noches, tengo un 300e (m103) lo que pasa es que cuando estoy en un semaforo detenido y tengo que avanzar rapido mi auto empieza a salir muy lento como si se estuviera ahogando y despues agarra su fuerza normal, que puede ser? Le regule la EHA VALVE le di un cuarto del giro y se arreglo un poco pero aun tiene ese pequeño problema, el auto se maneja bien en altas es solo cuando estoy detenido por un rato. saludos!
Amigo tengo un problema con un mercedes 124 desmontaron la silla del conductor y se desarmo el conector del modulo de memorias de la silla y no se como van los pines el orden es el conector de 16 pines por favor alguien q me ayude con un diagrama para poder poner en orden de nuevo los pines les agradezco
Gremlins in engine? Hi. On my MB 190E 1.8 1990mod km225 000 its not possible to ajust the fuel pressures in any direction. The system pressure (lower chamber) is 5,0 bar. The pressure on cold start valve is 5.4 bar always. Both at any rpm. The fuel pump, filter, accumulator and fuel pressure regulator are new (bought in MB store). Adusting the fuel pressure regulator clockwise or counter clockwise (even alle the way in or out) does not make any changes at any of the measured pressures at all. Wich I find very strange.(?) EHA is not connected during measuring . Ajusting the EHA valve makes the the differential pressure increase from 0.4 to 0.5 or 0.6, but the cold valve pressure is always 5,4 bar, so the EHA adjustment only decrease the system pressure to 4,9 or 4,8 bar. The car is difficult to start when cold, but runs "ok" and is easy to start when engine is warm. Is it possible that fuel leaks inside the fuel distributor is making it unable to ajust the systempressure to 5,3 bar? There are no visible gas leaks (not even inside the rubbercase under the fueldistributor). Bjørn Anton Lybeck, Norway.
Hi, Bjørn. As for the fuel pressure regulator, I'm very sorry to add that I forgot to mention that the 4.5mm screw adjusts the pressure of a non-working engine(constant 3bar pressure). If you have the cold start difficulties check the coolant temperature sensor(you have my video on how to do that) and the cold start valve - take it out, watch on its gasket, reconnect it and put a jar underneath, crank the engine few times and watch for one minute if it drips or not. Did you replace the injectors? Test them as well. That's what I can say for now! Happy Mercedesing
@@mercedeske Hello and thanks for answer and for very interesting and teaching videos. The coolant temperatur sensor and all the injectors are new. The cold start injector is also tested and works perfect. I have watched most of all your videos, and have tested and adjusted everything according to your instructions. I did not quite understand what you mean about - "4.5mm screw adjusts the pressure of a non-working engine(constant 3bar pressure). " What is non working enigne? Bjørn Anton
Hi and at first thanks for the donation. As for the 4.5mm screw - that's the screw you adjust the pressure on the fuel pressure regulator - that one fits torx T27. While your engine is ON, the pressure has to be up to 5.4bar. The moment you stall the engine, that pressure falls to 3bar and has to be constant(because once the engine reaches operating temperature the fuel accumulator has the task to hold the pressure steady in the system so that you can start your warm engine more easily). That screw has to hold the pressure not to drop under 3bar. You can do this with the pressure gauge on the fuel distributor(if you want). If the car is difficult to start and you completed steps 3&4(mechanics and electronics) then go back to step 1 - the ignition - check everything, because in this circle of 4 steps lies your issue. Btw. have you tested the EHA? When the engine is on idle at 80 you will have to get the fluctuation between -3 and 0 mAmps(the adjustment is done on the CO screw). This is for the lambda version, for those without lambda they have to get a steady reading of 0mAmps. If you don't test the duty cycle on X11 you can do it here on the EHA directly. Thanks for following my videos. Happy Mercedesing
@@mercedeske My plessure:-) Here is exactly the problem. When the engine is running I never reach the 5.4 bar pressure in lower chamber (system pressure), even though I adjust the 4.5 mm screw. My system pressure is always 5.0 bar and I suspect this low pressure might cause a lean mixture to the engine, make it hard to start when cold, and also make it run a bit weak (low power) when hot. About adjusting the 4.5 mm screw: My system pressure always stays at 5.0 bar, no matter if I turn the 4,5 mm screw clockwise or counter clockwise. The raw pressure (cold start valve) is always 5.4 bar. Never higher og lower. So it must be something I am missing. when I stall the engine the pressure drops to 3.0 bar and stays at 3.0 bar for at least 30 min. So my question is: Is it possible that a gas-leak inside the fuel distributor causes my system pressure to never go higher than 5.0 bar? I have testet the EHA and all the other components and measured them according to your videos and they all seem to work as they are supposed to, but I will measure them again. I will also go trough step 1-4 again tomorrow and check if I have missed something. Thanks again for great help :-) Bjørn Anton
No, if you had gas leak, it would be leaking out of the distributor so don't worry about that. I have a friend that told me also that he never got the pressure above 5bar(he is driving the same model as you). Maybe the distributor is set that way. I wouldn't advise you to readjust the screws since you have a good differential pressure. If something can leak, that's the EHA. If you have no leaks where the EHA is held(green o-rings) or out of its holes, then everything is fine. If the adjustment screw 2mm on the EHA is 6.8mm from above as you unscrew the protecting screw, then everything is set as it should be.
the engine runs perfect in the morning. adjusts idle perfectly. But when the engine stops after 30 minutes of driving. After 4-5 hours, the vehicle restarts after 6-10 seconds. Is this the valid reason for me to replace the regulator?
Try checking the fuel accumulator(the UFO 🤣 where the fuel pump is) It has to hold steady pressure while the car is off in order to help you start easier the warm engine. Do you know how to test it?
@@mercedeske yes, now i'm trying to repair my vehicle myself. There are butcher masters around. but knowledgeable people like you make me love my vehicle. I put the video link. The pressure he feels is very light and rare. ua-cam.com/video/3TkhiPGxsgM/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/iC-qDffxTOY/v-deo.html
Now what you are gonna do is to attach the pressure gauge on the fuel distributor. Start the car, let it run for a bit and then stall it. Observe the pessure gauge. The pressure MUST NOT FALL under 3bar IN 30MINUTES!!! Try it that way! If not that, then it's the fuel pressure regualtor.
Hi ivica im from the Philippines and i have w124,230e with faulty fuel pressure regulator, which is very costly here in my country, my question is, can i put a universal fuel pressure regulator on my 230e provided with pressure adjuster
will this be the same part for 260se m103 w126? can fuel system pressure drop from an fpr (no leak showing on the tail going to the manifold) ? new filter new pump good check valve, new injectors, where else can fuel leak? pressure drops immediately after pump is off
Did you see that on the pressure gauge? If you did and if the pressure doesn't hold 3bar for 30minutes after the engine is off you have a bad FUEL ACCUMULATOR! Concerning the first question. Just type the reference number of the fpr on ebay and you will get the list of car models that are compatible with the part.
ivica ive finally got the 260e running.but i got the 0.4 bar differential pressure but i cannot get to 6.5 bar system pressure and 6.1bar regulated..i notice you suggested to increase pressure turn fpr clockwise..i tried but pressure go down.i tried ccw and pressure increase!
@@mercedeske my fuel accumulator is brand new.i do retain 4 bars even 12 hours.i think my last issue can be a bad diaphragm..today i had one click start till this evening back to just fire a bit but wont continue..press the aire flow vane its all resistance but no hissing on the injectors..i think i need to change the fd diaphragm
@@micmac9853 As for the diaphragm, the only issue with it can be if it is ruptured. The fuel will flow out of the fd. You can check that if you bridge the contacts 7&8 and take out the injector lines from the distributor. As you turn the ignition on the pump will start operating but there must be no fuel out until you press the sensor plate.
Hello, hope well, on m102.982 had gradual then sudden total no start , but was riding fine before, changed battery, plugs (to non resistor, debate as had resistor in before whether or not to use either type....) changed to after market leads, afterm dry coil, afterm icm... still no start... go a afterm ovp to try, but 30 cranks and no run and idle still... so recharge battery to simulate alternator for new batt health.... alt regulator brushes half worn still seem fine... heater bypassed cause of leak , duo valve power disconnected assuming no water passing through... Only time and has immobilizer that got to fire, was if hold accel while starting, but then dies... fuel pump does prime sound key on... bypass fp relay also same symptoms... My fpr, had vaccum pipe torn at intake, replaced and no luck. Tried starting blocking intake with pulled off, same thing, tried pulling nipple hard thinking connected on metal pipe... was wrong... still in but... not sure if was like vacuum mod... put a mityvav hand pump on nipple end of fpr, and pumped, instant loss of pressure on mity vac... and hear as if arrounf the edges where nipple goes in as if hisssss sound or like sucking straw with bit of fluid left in glass, unsure if meant to hold more vacuum, and leaking only arround that edge, and causing no start.... unless the diaphram in which case expensive... no parts where i am but used ones either... am i testing this right, or could it be error codes? And what diag tests are possible for this engine in your experience, as non USA type and very little info... merc workshop refuse to look at as because of heater bypass (too tough got stuck to get full dash cover off to inspect whay leaking, core or pipe etc tp repair myself yet).... also I have spare nipple for fpr, but never seen anyone replace one... to see if simple fix... Just can be frustrating as stopped outdoor after one night outside... then sat long mechanics delaying to help, had to push uphill after weeks to atleast get out of major sun and rain for body work.... Wondering what opinion you may have.
@@mercedeske after having her up on Jack stands for a while, must get airbox off and take a look thanks. Hope something simple to get back and running smoothly soon... not sure what to look for unless obvious, did infact buy some liquid moly ke injection cleaning just if couldnt get started, pointless to put in on only half tank maybe.... needs full tank to ratio of can... but pulled fprelay out, and tried starting to depressure... and it fired instant but for a second, on jack stands infront so at a angle... if anything in injector maybe cleared... will only know if either look direct or try if lucky and get anothet start with fprelay back in... then could take a chance and get to fuel station to fill up and ad in liquid moly.... then could guess that injectors maybe dirty.... otherwise carefully try remove match and replace correctly. Thanks for reply, ecspecially if resolves will let know! Have a great week
Ok….that is what I have read also. Unfortunately….My fuel pressure gauge/valve for checking system pressure is leaking bad….Ill have to buy or build one
Understand. Im not going to mess with it till I can test max system pressure / Differential pressure….my concern is the diaphram regulator may not be holding enough back pressure….thereby making my differential pressure way to much. The car runs better when cold and progressively get worse as it warms up. Its really rich
Hello. There is no way you can adjust the system pressure on KE-JETRONIC, on K-Jetronic yes. On the fuel pressure regulator you can just adjust the residual pressure and that's not so important. If you have been turning the screw you should have remembered for how much. If you haven't then I can't help you.
Prvo kada je hladan jako tesko upali,a onda ima viši ler gas nego ranije i što je interesantno posle desetak kilometara voznje sam se ugasi i neće da upali. A sve se to desava zadnjih mesec dana Pa sam bio kod nekih majstora ovde kod nas u Šapcu i svašta su mi rekli da treba da se menja,cifra za delove je neverovatna
Pre svega ne bi bilo lose da zamenis potenciometar ako nikada nisi. Verovatno se ugasi kada mu oduzmes gas? Proveri i akumulator goriva(nalazi se pored filtera za gorivo).
@@mercedeske sve ću to izmenjati,čak sam mislio da promenim i pumpe(ima dve pumpe za gorivo) Imaš li preporuku gde da nabavim delove za njega,posto ovi nasi trgovci samo za akumulator pritiska goriva mi traze 75000
Excellent! Much needed info cause this maybe the issue with my 1.8 4 cyl. Vw
Thanks. Best wishes 👍🏻😊🍀
Im wondering how close to same system pressures are for Mercedes and vw 4 cyl. Mine is a 1.8 displacement…..what size are the Mercedes 4 cyl.?
It would be helpful if you could make a video of changing the vacuum hose .
Thank for a innovate post on a 124 regulator
Mak
Pakistan
💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻🍀🍀🍀
Q lastima q no es en español y q todos esos hermosos repuestos acá en Venezuela eso vale oro .gracias
Me voy hacer el video en espanol. Saludos!
3:40
Hello, you said that you can adjust the fuel pressure, but i watched some video, where you said that its not right. What is supposed to do then?
Yes, that was my mistake. That t27 screw is just supposed to adjust the RESIDUAL pressure(the pressure when the engine is OFF). It is pointless to readjust that screw. I'm sorry, that was my bad. Just don't readjust that screw.
Cuáles son las presiones de trabajo del regulador de presión de combustible para un motor M110 de un 280 slc? Cuál sería el número de la pieza en caso se necesite reemplazar? Y si se puede utilizar un regulador alternativo?
Eso es algo que tendrás que ver en la tabla. Tengo esa tabla en un video sobre la WUR. No debe exceder los 5,6 bar de presión del sistema y los 3,8 bar de presión de control. ¡Algo como eso!
it is a great video , I bot new regulator and could not adjust to 5.4 bar it is always stays on 5.0 bar I did like you explained in video . Can you give me any idea way it is not adjusting. Thanks
The system pressure is not being adjusted. The control pressure can be. If you have 5bar pressure on the lower chamber then it's good.
@@mercedeske OK thanks ,but what pressure is adjusting that screw you showing in the video
The residual pressure(the pressure when the engine is off). The best way is not to readjust.
@@mercedeske ok Thanks
Hi. I forgot to ask how many bar should be residual pressure . Thanks.
what a great video man! My 260E has a really high fuel consumption (my car has 300 000 km)! No fuel leaks and I disconnected the cold start valve but the problem is still there. Do you think the fuel pressure regulator is the culprit? thank you!
Hi, thanks. Don't disconnect the cold start valve you will need it to start your car cold easier. As for the consumption - check the pumps, the fuel pressure regulator(find a pressure gauge and hook it up on the fuel distributor), check the injectors afterwards. If everything is fine, replace your lambda probe if you have never done it before, check the potentiometer also.
So, let's begin 😁 the pumps must deliver you 6.1-6.3bar pressure(measured on the cold start valve), the working pressure 5.7-5.9bar(measured on the lower chamber). You must be allways in the range of 0.4bar difference. While the pressure gauge is on the lower chamber start the car and press the accelerator lever and press it up to half a way, if the pressure falls for more then 0.1bar, the fuel pressure regulator is bad. If the car doesn't "fire" and if your spark plugs don't get black and sooty, the injectors are fine.
Then check the electronics-the lambda, the potentiometer(they increase the consumption).
That would be it for now. Further watch my videos and if you have any additional questions just comment. Thanks for watching and "happy Mercedesing"😃😉
@@mercedeske hi, im having the same problem and actually the spark plugs a soo sooty and even letting the car run for a while stains the cabro pavers sooty black, what do i do? regards
@@Numero_moja Hi. Check the injectors. I would say they are bad. If you have never replaced them, do it.
It is a great video. I was suffering from a problem of delayed start-up, and I turned the allen screw twice clockwise using a 4.5 mm allen key ..and the results changed for the better.
Is rotating twice clockwise correct and reassuring?
Thanks.
Hi and thanks. As for that screw, what I didn't know then is that the screw just modifies the residual pressure. Maybe it was 2.7 and you increased it to approximately 3bar. Good thing I know that it helped you. Greetings
I wonder where I can get the new regulator from, because where I am, it's not available anywhere
Hi nice job, by the way on a Turbo application is the fuel pressure regulator the same non turbo, can't find any information on turbo one
Great video. I've gor a 190e with m103 at the garage now. Veey hard to start most times a no start. Fuel is in my engine oil. Plugs are wet. So all this needs to be changed. Fuel tank cleaned out as well. I am wondering if this Fuel regulator could be my issue ? Mechanic thinks it could be this or perhaps a bad or faulty crank sensor making it go off timing as well. Cheers
Thanks. If you have a bad cold start then at first check the cold start valve and the coolant temperature sensor. If the plugs are wet, check the injectors. Happy Mercedesing 😃 🍀🤞🏻
@@mercedeske thanks so much. You're great
I’ve got a pretty bad misfire in my 1995 SL500, and I was wondering if it’s a fuel pressure regulator issue or a distributor cap/rotor issue? I changed the spark plugs, and the caps and rotors look worn, but not extremely worn to the point where it’s obvious they’re the issue. Any help is greatly appreciated, thank you!
Odlican video.Meni je na regulatoru puklo gumeno crevo,pa me zanima da li moze da se popravi? Ako ne moze koja je cena novog regulatora,i gde moze da se kupi?
pozdrav Aleksandar
Hvala ti, druže.
Ne, kada crevo pukne samo zamena dolazi u obzir, jer tu onda dolazi do pada sistemskog pritiska, a kada pritisak na Ka Glavi padne, dolazi do gubitka snage. Sto se tice cene novog, meni su ovde u Srbiji trazili za Bošov 500evra😕😕😕. Ja sam ga platio podosta, oko 268$(30000din.). Uostalom, evo ti link sa ibeja(ebay), pa procesljaj, mislim da ces nesto naci povoljno i gledaj da deo bude kompatibilan sa tvojim kolima.
Pozdrav, Ivica
www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=0438161001&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&selvel=Year%3A1989%2CMake%3AMercedes-Benz%2CModel%3A190E%2CTrim%3A2.6%2BSedan%2B4-Door%2CEngine%3A2.6L%2B2599CC%2Bl6%2BGAS%2BSOHC%2BNaturally%2BAspirated%2CSubmodel%3A2.6%2CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.6L&_odkw=0438161001+1989+Mercedes-Benz+190E+2.6+2.6L&_osacat=0&selcontext=productType%3ACAR_AND_TRUCK
@@mercedeske Hvala puno na odgovoru
Nema na cemu. Ja uvek odgovaram. Veliki pozdrav
@@mercedeske
Ivice da li mozes da mi kazes gde si kupio taj regulator pritiska?
Pozdrav
Aleksandar
Aleksandre, od ovih sam ja kupio regulator. Video sam da je poskupeo. Samo sto ovde stoji da mozda ne salju u Srbiju. I kod njih je sada skuplje nego kada sam ja narucivao. Pozdrav
www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-Mercedes-190E-300E-300SE-300SEL-300TE-Fuel-Regulator-BOSCH-0-438-161-001/190821234317?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Thanks.
You're welcome, glad to be of help, anytime!
Buenas noches, tengo una consulta..parece que mi regulador está tapado y/o no regresa al tanque o muy poco el combustible no utilizado, entonces eso hace que la bomba se caliente y funcione mal..que debo hacer? Hacia donde debo girar el tornillo con la llave torx para que fluya el combustible de regreso al tanque.
Buenas. No hay manera de hacer eso, solo reemplazar el regulador de presión. En cuanto al tornillo torx, solo determina la presión residual (motor apagado), nada más. El regulador de presión es malo si no puede mantener la presión del sistema constante, 6,5 bar en tu caso. También revise la válvula de retención de su bomba. Si se calienta, verifique el suministro de combustible (menos de 1 litro en 45 segundos: bomba de combustible defectuosa). "Bona fortuna"
@@mercedeske gracias..perdón no especifique que modelo es mi auto, es un w124 del 87, un 230e a gasolina.
Buenas noches, tengo un 300e (m103) lo que pasa es que cuando estoy en un semaforo detenido y tengo que avanzar rapido mi auto empieza a salir muy lento como si se estuviera ahogando y despues agarra su fuerza normal, que puede ser? Le regule la EHA VALVE le di un cuarto del giro y se arreglo un poco pero aun tiene ese pequeño problema, el auto se maneja bien en altas es solo cuando estoy detenido por un rato. saludos!
Buenas. Hola, ¿cambiaste el potenciómetro?
Amigo tengo un problema con un mercedes 124 desmontaron la silla del conductor y se desarmo el conector del modulo de memorias de la silla y no se como van los pines el orden es el conector de 16 pines por favor alguien q me ayude con un diagrama para poder poner en orden de nuevo los pines les agradezco
Meni je pukla ona gumica i tu curi gorivo da li moze da se stavi druga gumica? Hvala unapred
Probaj, ali ne verujem da ćeš uspeti. Tu treba da bude konstantan pritisak do 5.5 bara.
@@mercedeske a da li moze da se stavi cep umesto gumice?
Gde moze da se nauci, kupi novi regulator? Hvala unapred
Ja sam narucio iz SAD-a preko ibeja, po broju regulatora. Savetovao bih ti da narucujes originalne delove, Bosove, i bices miran.
@@mercedeske hvala puno
Gremlins in engine?
Hi. On my MB 190E 1.8 1990mod km225 000 its not possible to ajust the fuel pressures in any direction. The system pressure (lower chamber) is 5,0 bar. The pressure on cold start valve is 5.4 bar always. Both at any rpm. The fuel pump, filter, accumulator and fuel pressure regulator are new (bought in MB store). Adusting the fuel pressure regulator clockwise or counter clockwise (even alle the way in or out) does not make any changes at any of the measured pressures at all. Wich I find very strange.(?)
EHA is not connected during measuring . Ajusting the EHA valve makes the the differential pressure increase from 0.4 to 0.5 or 0.6, but the cold valve pressure is always 5,4 bar, so the EHA adjustment only decrease the system pressure to 4,9 or 4,8 bar.
The car is difficult to start when cold, but runs "ok" and is easy to start when engine is warm. Is it possible that fuel leaks inside the fuel distributor is making it unable to ajust the systempressure to 5,3 bar? There are no visible gas leaks (not even inside the rubbercase under the fueldistributor).
Bjørn Anton Lybeck, Norway.
Hi, Bjørn. As for the fuel pressure regulator, I'm very sorry to add that I forgot to mention that the 4.5mm screw adjusts the pressure of a non-working engine(constant 3bar pressure). If you have the cold start difficulties check the coolant temperature sensor(you have my video on how to do that) and the cold start valve - take it out, watch on its gasket, reconnect it and put a jar underneath, crank the engine few times and watch for one minute if it drips or not. Did you replace the injectors? Test them as well. That's what I can say for now!
Happy Mercedesing
@@mercedeske Hello and thanks for answer and for very interesting and teaching videos. The coolant temperatur sensor and all the injectors are new. The cold start injector is also tested and works perfect. I have watched most of all your videos, and have tested and adjusted everything according to your instructions. I did not quite understand what you mean about - "4.5mm screw adjusts the pressure of a non-working engine(constant 3bar pressure). " What is non working enigne?
Bjørn Anton
Hi and at first thanks for the donation. As for the 4.5mm screw - that's the screw you adjust the pressure on the fuel pressure regulator - that one fits torx T27. While your engine is ON, the pressure has to be up to 5.4bar. The moment you stall the engine, that pressure falls to 3bar and has to be constant(because once the engine reaches operating temperature the fuel accumulator has the task to hold the pressure steady in the system so that you can start your warm engine more easily). That screw has to hold the pressure not to drop under 3bar. You can do this with the pressure gauge on the fuel distributor(if you want).
If the car is difficult to start and you completed steps 3&4(mechanics and electronics) then go back to step 1 - the ignition - check everything, because in this circle of 4 steps lies your issue. Btw. have you tested the EHA? When the engine is on idle at 80 you will have to get the fluctuation between -3 and 0 mAmps(the adjustment is done on the CO screw). This is for the lambda version, for those without lambda they have to get a steady reading of 0mAmps. If you don't test the duty cycle on X11 you can do it here on the EHA directly.
Thanks for following my videos. Happy Mercedesing
@@mercedeske My plessure:-)
Here is exactly the problem. When the engine is running I never reach the 5.4 bar pressure in lower chamber (system pressure), even though I adjust the 4.5 mm screw. My system pressure is always 5.0 bar and I suspect this low pressure might cause a lean mixture to the engine, make it hard to start when cold, and also make it run a bit weak (low power) when hot.
About adjusting the 4.5 mm screw:
My system pressure always stays at 5.0 bar, no matter if I turn the 4,5 mm screw clockwise or counter clockwise. The raw pressure (cold start valve) is always 5.4 bar. Never higher og lower. So it must be something I am missing. when I stall the engine the pressure drops to 3.0 bar and stays at 3.0 bar for at least 30 min.
So my question is:
Is it possible that a gas-leak inside the fuel distributor causes my system pressure to never go higher than 5.0 bar?
I have testet the EHA and all the other components and measured them according to your videos and they all seem to work as they are supposed to, but I will measure them again.
I will also go trough step 1-4 again tomorrow and check if I have missed something. Thanks again for great help :-)
Bjørn Anton
No, if you had gas leak, it would be leaking out of the distributor so don't worry about that. I have a friend that told me also that he never got the pressure above 5bar(he is driving the same model as you). Maybe the distributor is set that way. I wouldn't advise you to readjust the screws since you have a good differential pressure. If something can leak, that's the EHA. If you have no leaks where the EHA is held(green o-rings) or out of its holes, then everything is fine. If the adjustment screw 2mm on the EHA is 6.8mm from above as you unscrew the protecting screw, then everything is set as it should be.
the engine runs perfect in the morning. adjusts idle perfectly. But when the engine stops after 30 minutes of driving. After 4-5 hours, the vehicle restarts after 6-10 seconds. Is this the valid reason for me to replace the regulator?
i vehicle original. 310,000 Kilometers.
Try checking the fuel accumulator(the UFO 🤣 where the fuel pump is) It has to hold steady pressure while the car is off in order to help you start easier the warm engine. Do you know how to test it?
@@mercedeske yes, now i'm trying to repair my vehicle myself. There are butcher masters around. but knowledgeable people like you make me love my vehicle. I put the video link. The pressure he feels is very light and rare.
ua-cam.com/video/3TkhiPGxsgM/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/iC-qDffxTOY/v-deo.html
Now what you are gonna do is to attach the pressure gauge on the fuel distributor. Start the car, let it run for a bit and then stall it. Observe the pessure gauge. The pressure MUST NOT FALL under 3bar IN 30MINUTES!!! Try it that way! If not that, then it's the fuel pressure regualtor.
@@mercedeske Thanks... i will try.
Hi ivica im from the Philippines and i have w124,230e with faulty fuel pressure regulator, which is very costly here in my country, my question is, can i put a universal fuel pressure regulator on my 230e provided with pressure adjuster
Maybe, but bear in mind that you must have three lines - two for the fuel distributor and one for the return line.
will this be the same part for 260se m103 w126? can fuel system pressure drop from an fpr (no leak showing on the tail going to the manifold) ?
new filter new pump good check valve, new injectors, where else can fuel leak? pressure drops immediately after pump is off
Did you see that on the pressure gauge? If you did and if the pressure doesn't hold 3bar for 30minutes after the engine is off you have a bad FUEL ACCUMULATOR! Concerning the first question. Just type the reference number of the fpr on ebay and you will get the list of car models that are compatible with the part.
ivica ive finally got the 260e running.but i got the 0.4 bar differential pressure but i cannot get to 6.5 bar system pressure and 6.1bar regulated..i notice you suggested to increase pressure turn fpr clockwise..i tried but pressure go down.i tried ccw and pressure increase!
I'm glad you made it. If you got 0.4bar difference it's okay plus if the pressure is more than 5 bar.
@@mercedeske my fuel accumulator is brand new.i do retain 4 bars even 12 hours.i think my last issue can be a bad diaphragm..today i had one click start till this evening back to just fire a bit but wont continue..press the aire flow vane its all resistance but no hissing on the injectors..i think i need to change the fd diaphragm
@@micmac9853 As for the diaphragm, the only issue with it can be if it is ruptured. The fuel will flow out of the fd. You can check that if you bridge the contacts 7&8 and take out the injector lines from the distributor. As you turn the ignition on the pump will start operating but there must be no fuel out until you press the sensor plate.
Please where can I buy it? Good and cheap
www.ebay.com/itm/133173658800?hash=item1f01c4c4b0:g:gHEAAOSwzrxUwOBh&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4ClhldjLnTgTfNC8jFtEPZdmqnY8X1ABFCl2TPlPZBn6Qh9unoSfUUz0Km%2BlVW8FVnaRh2ouUfuHw1%2FYKo9%2F8PxdNjZsP9WhTfIZWbT1yV7x0i5UOVHD2U0%2Fy0GyZrFxdt9AOP3O3lh5QcIS47O5xv2iZksNCTeRZ1TnFWm%2Fp7kzwyzYFIPVq0Ur16l9PJkYvtX%2B5l%2FfTvhNOn0PUyXfZCi89EY4rw6qTyPJwx%2Bpa6dyqkNd4ZKzo84fNZDSRaEv%2BHGm94FX7o2Lk9gxeiW5L50SyTKruIxSd607w5HYEupD%7Ctkp%3ABFBM4L_6nNdi
Hello, hope well, on m102.982 had gradual then sudden total no start , but was riding fine before, changed battery, plugs (to non resistor, debate as had resistor in before whether or not to use either type....) changed to after market leads, afterm dry coil, afterm icm... still no start... go a afterm ovp to try, but 30 cranks and no run and idle still... so recharge battery to simulate alternator for new batt health.... alt regulator brushes half worn still seem fine... heater bypassed cause of leak , duo valve power disconnected assuming no water passing through...
Only time and has immobilizer that got to fire, was if hold accel while starting, but then dies... fuel pump does prime sound key on... bypass fp relay also same symptoms...
My fpr, had vaccum pipe torn at intake, replaced and no luck. Tried starting blocking intake with pulled off, same thing, tried pulling nipple hard thinking connected on metal pipe... was wrong... still in but... not sure if was like vacuum mod... put a mityvav hand pump on nipple end of fpr, and pumped, instant loss of pressure on mity vac... and hear as if arrounf the edges where nipple goes in as if hisssss sound or like sucking straw with bit of fluid left in glass, unsure if meant to hold more vacuum, and leaking only arround that edge, and causing no start.... unless the diaphram in which case expensive... no parts where i am but used ones either... am i testing this right, or could it be error codes? And what diag tests are possible for this engine in your experience, as non USA type and very little info... merc workshop refuse to look at as because of heater bypass (too tough got stuck to get full dash cover off to inspect whay leaking, core or pipe etc tp repair myself yet).... also I have spare nipple for fpr, but never seen anyone replace one... to see if simple fix...
Just can be frustrating as stopped outdoor after one night outside... then sat long mechanics delaying to help, had to push uphill after weeks to atleast get out of major sun and rain for body work....
Wondering what opinion you may have.
Also, if open fuel cap, no pressure release in tank....
Old plugs were black and moist a bit on threads.
Also , some dirt on sensor plate, bit of light oil on top of air box
Check the injectors
@@mercedeske after having her up on Jack stands for a while, must get airbox off and take a look thanks. Hope something simple to get back and running smoothly soon... not sure what to look for unless obvious, did infact buy some liquid moly ke injection cleaning just if couldnt get started, pointless to put in on only half tank maybe.... needs full tank to ratio of can... but pulled fprelay out, and tried starting to depressure... and it fired instant but for a second, on jack stands infront so at a angle... if anything in injector maybe cleared... will only know if either look direct or try if lucky and get anothet start with fprelay back in... then could take a chance and get to fuel station to fill up and ad in liquid moly.... then could guess that injectors maybe dirty.... otherwise carefully try remove match and replace correctly. Thanks for reply, ecspecially if resolves will let know! Have a great week
I wish if can be replaced by an universal adjustable fuel pressure regulator and put a check valve in the return line can do the same job??
I think it's possible, but bear in mind that Mercedes is very picky and doesn't like other parts except Bosch.
How does the vacuum line on diaphram fuel pressure regulator effect differential pressure?
There is no vacuum line there. That black little hose is just a vent line.
Ok….that is what I have read also. Unfortunately….My fuel pressure gauge/valve for checking system pressure is leaking bad….Ill have to buy or build one
I need to look your video up again about diaphram regulator adjusting….if mine ends up being off….cant remember which way was lean / rich
@@royhudson8416 That determines just the residual pressure, you don't have to be readjusting that screw. Let's say it is for nothing.
Understand. Im not going to mess with it till I can test max system pressure / Differential pressure….my concern is the diaphram regulator may not be holding enough back pressure….thereby making my differential pressure way to much. The car runs better when cold and progressively get worse as it warms up. Its really rich
Hello Lvica, how to adjust the fuel pressure regulator to return factory setting?
Hello. There is no way you can adjust the system pressure on KE-JETRONIC, on K-Jetronic yes. On the fuel pressure regulator you can just adjust the residual pressure and that's not so important. If you have been turning the screw you should have remembered for how much. If you haven't then I can't help you.
ok thank you @@mercedeske
Hello, can you tell us the fuel pressure for 4 cylinders, 200E/230E?. Thank you.
5.2-5.5bar working pressure(lower chamber of the fuel distributor).
@@mercedeske Thank you.
@@zeusbill3459 My pleasure 😃👍🏻
So , 6 bar fuel pump will be ok?
@@zeusbill3459 Yes. The one that suits the car.
These fuel pressure regulators are a real problem…..guess they quit building them. I havent found but 1, at rockauto…..827.00 US
They don't/didn't fail often, that's why. Try searching on ebay. I found mine there.
Ivice kako možemo da stupimo u kontak imam 300E 1991godina,imam problema sa radom motora
Imam 300E benzin KE JETRONIC
@@mrverkoknezevic Kakvih problema?
Prvo kada je hladan jako tesko upali,a onda ima viši ler gas nego ranije i što je interesantno posle desetak kilometara voznje sam se ugasi i neće da upali.
A sve se to desava zadnjih mesec dana
Pa sam bio kod nekih majstora ovde kod nas u Šapcu i svašta su mi rekli da treba da se menja,cifra za delove je neverovatna
Pre svega ne bi bilo lose da zamenis potenciometar ako nikada nisi. Verovatno se ugasi kada mu oduzmes gas? Proveri i akumulator goriva(nalazi se pored filtera za gorivo).
@@mercedeske sve ću to izmenjati,čak sam mislio da promenim i pumpe(ima dve pumpe za gorivo)
Imaš li preporuku gde da nabavim delove za njega,posto ovi nasi trgovci samo za akumulator pritiska goriva mi traze 75000