Mark, love your podcasts! I am learning a ton! They are becoming my favorite addictions when I have free15-20 minutes away from changing diapers and feedings! Keep up the great work!
@32bala Vibration is a hard thing to quantify. The less vibration the cleaner the cut (usually). So the question then becomes how clean of a cut do you need. And that's a question you can answer. Heavy vibration usually indicates that something is out of alignment or possibly bent. But a small amount of vibration is normal.
Have you set the fence for the drift. Bandsaw blades rarely cut perfectly straight, but they do cut at a consistent angle. You need to set your fence to that exact angle in order to make cuts using the fence.
@missionron I didn't go as far as sanding the tires, but that's not a bad idea if you want to achieve the absolute BEST setup possible. The saw is indeed on the concrete. And the drift adjustment was necessary. Any time I switch out a blade, I adjust for the drift.
Thanks Marc,I moved the blade to a more central position,and sprayed some belt dressing under the tyre on the bandwheel this is used on alternator belts on cars to stop them slipping,so far so good,fingers crossed and thank you for your advice.
@andersonec1 It depends on how you use your saw. I can count on one hand the number of times i have used the miter slot on my bandsaw. So if you expect to use it a lot, you will definitely want to take that into consideration.
Interesting video The Wood Whisperer.I am busy building a 16 inch steel framed bandsaw with 30 mm wide MDF wheels.I have gained a lot from your Bandsaw videos thank you.
Just got my Jet Deluxe Pro Bandsaw.... watched your video to feel comfortable before I turned it on. Great Video and Thanks..... Now I will go try out my new toy:) Looking forward to watching more videos! Thanks again, Dawn :)
Setting up the miter gauge is pretty easy. Just use a square and make sure the miter gauge is 90 degrees to the fence. Should give you pretty solid results.
I just bought my first ever bandsaw (Makita LB1200F) for fine domestic work. Out of the box I noticed the table seems to vibrate to a noticeable/visual level. I am going to be following your instructions and hopefully I can get rid of it. Excellent video by the way.
Thanks so much. I been doing this for a long time. Guess we never stop learning. I was always trying to figure out how to compensate for the blade drifting, you made it look easy.
Very helpful Mark, thank you. I know your very busy. You have everybodys dream shop,im surprised to can peel yourself away from from it. Even with the wife! cheers!
I could have explained that better. I didn't mean to take the crown out of the tire, but to make sure the wheel is concentric to the shaft. And FYI, poking any unsuspecting female in the arm will work for reference purposes.
You can. But keep in mind some automotive waxes will cause downstream finishing issues. But most times, I find that the wood gets processed so much after that point that it doesn't seem to make a difference. But if you ever see fisheyes or some other impurity-related issues with your finish, you might want to switch wax without silicone.
@wilson2262 You might have misunderstood Wilson. The fence never really needs to be set to the table. It only needs to be set to the angle of the blade.
@desb63 Well I would definitely try the blade in the center. The other thing you may want to try is putting some sort of adhesive between the wheel and the tire. Just enough to stop it from slipping.
One thing i didn't see discussed here was alignment of the guide height adjuster. I have a tannewitz 20" that doesn't seem to raise and lower properly with the blade. I notice that the guide bearings will be adjusted well at one height, and then after adjusting the guide height one or the other bearings will rub the blade. This is also true with the thrust bearing. At one height there will be clearance and then after adjusting the height it will rub the blade.
@NancyToday I think you might just hav a very dull blade. If the wood were wet, it might actually cut faster. So I would try installing a new after-market blade.
@missionron Thanks man. I have been pretty lucky with my bandsaw tires and I never really had to attach new ones. I don't envy the project. Perhaps it might slide on easier with a little soapy water? As for truing the tire, the best method I saw for this was using a little adjustable jig on the inside of the case under the wheel. Sandpaper on an adjustable piece of wood.
Well the thing is, 4 thousandths is a very small amount. It doesn't take much for the blade to start making contact. So if after setting the blade at .004" you still see the bearing moving, I wouldn't worry about it too much.
I upgraded to the carters when I installed the height extension block on my 14 inch delta. the quality could be better for the price but with the proper setup I can get some pretty thin veneer out of the mesquite I have been collecting
I always look forward to your videos and think I have seen most of them that are on here. I really really needed this one!!! Thanks for all of the ideas and help you have given me with these.
What a great help you have been. Lots better than my instruction manual! When I am cutting a block of wood, it cuts incredibly slowly, like a mm per five seconds. As soon as I put any pressure on it, the blade touches the little brake behind it. is my wood too wet?
@oisincasey I don't have a list unfortunately. I like to keep my options open so I only know the next project in line, which is an adirondack chair done up in the Greene & Greene style. Should be pretty sweet! If you ever have the urge to joint, we'd be happy to have you!
well any blade is going to be an upgrade. But whether you get the 4 or 6 tpi really depends on the quality of cut you are after. In softwoods, I would think 4 tpi would be just fine. Generally I like to have my blades multi-task as much as possible, making some compromises here and there. I really don't like changing blades any more than is absolutely necessary.
Bandsaw sizes are not referring to any particular diameter. Instead, they are referring to the throat depth. Essentially, the distance between the back arm of the saw and the blade. It essentially says you won't be able to cut a piece greater than X inches wide without hitting the back support. Make sense?
Good Info, thanks for sharing, BTW, the Wife push is great ! got to remeber to use that one "well I have to test it, so I know how much pressure to use to set my bandsaw up", LOL !
Great vid, Marc. I think the REAL trick to folding the blade is the "Wa-na-na-na-na-na" sound effect !! (:^D) I especially liked the cast iron table top prep info...good stuff.
Hey torgy! Unfortunately man, I don't think they come in round. But, you could always use a wooden dowel if you want to switch to something non-metal. Hard maple might work. Not sure how well it will perform though compared to the metal that's there now. Sure would be quieter though.
Thanks Marc. I almost thought you said 'These aren't the droids your looking for'. You always amaze me how quickly you reply even in you tube comments, I don't know how you keep up with it all. Hope your move into the new workshop is going well, bet you can't wait to start working in your new area. Exciting stuff! I would have come to help if I wasn't on the other side of the world. I better watch the full video before commenting in future, sorry to have bothered you.
@missionron haha thanks. That is the old shop though. I am currently in a 3-car garage, which is still nothing to laugh at. But definitely much smaller than the old space.
@oisincasey Sorry to hear about that. And you use the T9 Boeshield stuff?? That's suppose to be bullet proof against rust. Well, to clean off the new rust, I would lubricate with some WD-400 and scrub it down with an abrasive pad. YOu can get them at the home center. It won't be as aggressive as sandpaper and you can scrub all the rust out.
I use industrial grade saw blades and their recommendation is anthing above and including 3/8 should be real tight, no matter what the saw manufacturer suggests. if you use bearing guides those should touch the blade right behind the kerf. no paper shims or anything, just set the bearings so they are touching the blade and tighten them. with this setup I started getting some pretty nice results resawing. thin blades for curves should be tight too, but not much cause they can put a groove in the tire. I only use this blades when I really need them. these blades are not at all expensive, 6 feet cost around 10-15 EUR. for a saw like yours you would probably get a single decent blade for about 50 USD
@OLDMANSBALLBAG hey john. have you gone through the full setup and calibration procedure recommended in this video? Also, make sure you have a nice sharp blade installed. Hopefully its just a dull blade and not something wrong with the saw.
exactly...yet he says he doesnt check it. If he he did he may find they are not coplanar anyway... there is so much mis-information on the you-tube you really have to sift through it. i am glad i heard about snodgrass's video before beating my brains out trying to get it to be co-planar and cut nice. now it will cut a 6 inch block off in 6x6 slivers 1/16 of an inch thick.. and that fence drift compensations is not necessary using snod grass's technique. I wonder if these guys ever study their competitions techniques to see if there is a better way?
Mr.Weezbad Of course we do. But I can't exactly go back in time and change the words I said two years before the Snodgrass video showed up on UA-cam. ;)
A crown really isn't necessary. Lots of bandsaws have perfectly flat wheels so if you are truing it up, I'd just make it easy on yourself and create a flat. But if you are just cleaning the tires up, you might simply try spinning the wheel manually while applying sancpaper to the tire with hand pressure. That way you'll just keep the original shape and clean any crud off the surface. Re-shaping the rubber tire is really a last resort.
I enjoy a lot of the Wood Wisperer but I have to disagree with him on this video. I set up my band saw the way Alex Snodgrass instructs us to and what a difference. follow his instruction and be impressed with the results. I have no drift in my cuts either which was my major issue along with coplane and the reason why its a no no. check out Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass. Its 35:13 long and worth it.
No, I already know that Jedi mind tricks don't work on other Jedi. :) Glad to help my friend. Day 2 in the new shop. Still lots of setup and cleanup to do but it's pretty exciting.
You can do that, but keep in mind you're going to want to replace them someday. Honestly, if they are that loose I think you're best and safest bet is a replacement.
Where's the video where you fold the blade. I always forget, was just watching other methods but still can't do it, your method was the best I think. my blade is smaller so I can't do it like the other videos I see with people folding longer blades.
hi there, please could any1 help me ! i have just purchased a 350w bandsaw, i am using it to cut 20mm hardwood, it seems to work fine in a straight line but when i try and cut a curve the blade stops moving, my blade is 1425mm x 6.35mm x 0.3mm, any advice would be much appreciated, john
thanks for the answer this is my band saw(JWBS-14CS ) i can not pass the nickel test. but this might be silly but it will hold aPocket Hole Screws standing thanks again marc
Ok I'll just keep them flat. The tires stay on the wheel but I can easily push the off with gentle pressure. Do you think it might be a good idea to run a bead of glue in them?
How would i true the bandsaw tires? (i have the same saw as yours here) 24" its the only thing i havent tried, i want to get a grip on the vibration...i know there was tension on the tires for a long time. (i did buy new tires but cant get the darn things on! So ill try whatever you can spare the time to tell me Mark. Your podcasts are unmatched in detail and cherished by many woodworkers i suspect . Thank you!
Hi, Is it enough to just have the fence at right angles to the cut/drift? surely the whole table must also be set otherwise the miter track will be out, any cuts using the Miter gauge would take the timber off the line of the drift.
i have a skill band saw an OK starter saw. It has metal rods to keep the blade from any right or left play and a bearing behind the blade. They all have round stock. So do either of the 2 types of non metal come in round stock thank you Chevy Chase LOL
did you sand down the tires on this bandsaw? and is your saw sitting directly on concrete? also, was it necessasary to adjust for drift,or was that just a demo to show your viewers? Thanks Mark,
What blade would you consider a "multi-task blade"? I do lot of ripping on the BS but I would love to be able to resaw with the same blade. I have found a hardwood supplier near so that's all I'm going to use from here...
No offense intended but may I suggest you watch Alex Snodgrass' 35 minute video on tuning up a band saw, it's on UA-cam. And yes there really is an Alex Snodgrass.
Bandsaw wheels must Not be co planer otherwise the blade can run off of the bottom wheel when adjusting the blade position correctly on the top wheel, the wheels are deliberately set "out" of co planer by the makers,,, DO NOT interfere with this!!
chris bond OK, makes sense. So what's "spec" and how do you check / adjust? I recently inherited a saw (probably 40-50s vintage),, no manual and the original owner... well, you know 😧)
@@WillBravoNotEvil Put the blade on the wheels, snug it up and turn the wheel by hand, watching how the blade tracks. Forget about the wheels being co-planar. The upper wheel is the only one that tilts. Turn the adjusting knob so that the blade tracks with the bottom of the gullet in the center of the tire.
I am also a drummer, can a drum dial be repurposed as a calibration tool for like setting the blade on a jointer? Or measuring the wobble on a rotor in a band saw?
Love your vids...very informative and helpful. I need to adjust the blade tension on my Rikon 14" 10-325. Can I borrow your wife to help me get the blade tension set properly?
Hi Marc,I am having problems with my new startrite 502e bandsaw,the tyre on the upper bandwheel keeps slipping and jamming the machine,I think it may be my blade position as I set the teeth just forward of the bandwheel,this is what I was told to do,but I am thinking now it may be best to take the blade into the centre of the tyre. tension is set with the pointer inside the machine to match blade size,Any help would be appreciated thank you.
I think it may be time to change my blade. I am getting a lot of drift no matter what I do. It seems when I push material through, the blade hits the bearing behind it and it causes it to twist and drift. Any thoughts?
Hey Mark, so I just got my first Bandsaw, I'm adjusting the blade guides now (bearing type)... the manual says the lateral bearings have to be adjusted 0.004" away from the blade or the thickness of a dollar bill. So my question is, are the bearing supposed to move when I turn the band saw ON? like all the time? Funny how i said 3 months ago in a comment that i burn manuals and here I am a bit confused FAIL haha Thanks!
great video!!!! just curious im trying to set up my bandsaw and when i try to cut a piece of wood the blade starts to turn to one side and ends up cutting off the wood at an angle please can some one tell me how to remdy this
Mark, I enjoy your podcasts and have learned a ton from watching them. I was wondering if you had seen Alex Snodgrass video regarding bandsaw setup. He challenges some of the conventional thinking on centering the blade. Since this was one of your earlier videos, I wondered if you had changed you approach any.
The two approaches are not all that different. His greatly simplifies things though, which is awesome. The primary difference is adjusting the blade for drift. Much easier to get the blade where it should be to avoid having to deal with drift at all.
Mark, love your podcasts! I am learning a ton! They are becoming my favorite addictions when I have free15-20 minutes away from changing diapers and feedings! Keep up the great work!
@32bala Vibration is a hard thing to quantify. The less vibration the cleaner the cut (usually). So the question then becomes how clean of a cut do you need. And that's a question you can answer. Heavy vibration usually indicates that something is out of alignment or possibly bent. But a small amount of vibration is normal.
Have you set the fence for the drift. Bandsaw blades rarely cut perfectly straight, but they do cut at a consistent angle. You need to set your fence to that exact angle in order to make cuts using the fence.
@missionron I didn't go as far as sanding the tires, but that's not a bad idea if you want to achieve the absolute BEST setup possible. The saw is indeed on the concrete. And the drift adjustment was necessary. Any time I switch out a blade, I adjust for the drift.
kudos on your blade folding sound effects!
Thanks Marc,I moved the blade to a more central position,and sprayed some belt dressing under the tyre on the bandwheel this is used on alternator belts on cars to stop them slipping,so far so good,fingers crossed and thank you for your advice.
@andersonec1 It depends on how you use your saw. I can count on one hand the number of times i have used the miter slot on my bandsaw. So if you expect to use it a lot, you will definitely want to take that into consideration.
Interesting video The Wood Whisperer.I am busy building a 16 inch steel framed bandsaw with 30 mm wide MDF wheels.I have gained a lot from your Bandsaw videos thank you.
Just got my Jet Deluxe Pro Bandsaw.... watched your video to feel comfortable before I turned it on. Great Video and Thanks..... Now I will go try out my new toy:) Looking forward to watching more videos! Thanks again, Dawn :)
Setting up the miter gauge is pretty easy. Just use a square and make sure the miter gauge is 90 degrees to the fence. Should give you pretty solid results.
I just bought my first ever bandsaw (Makita LB1200F) for fine domestic work. Out of the box I noticed the table seems to vibrate to a noticeable/visual level. I am going to be following your instructions and hopefully I can get rid of it. Excellent video by the way.
Thanks so much. I been doing this for a long time. Guess we never stop learning. I was always trying to figure out how to compensate for the blade drifting, you made it look easy.
Very helpful Mark, thank you. I know your very busy. You have everybodys dream shop,im surprised to can peel yourself away from from it. Even with the wife!
cheers!
I could have explained that better. I didn't mean to take the crown out of the tire, but to make sure the wheel is concentric to the shaft. And FYI, poking any unsuspecting female in the arm will work for reference purposes.
Great video mark,purchasing my first bandsaw in the spring and didn't realise the amount of setting up,thanks again......
Just bought my first bandsaw. This was really informative. Thanks a lot.
You can. But keep in mind some automotive waxes will cause downstream finishing issues. But most times, I find that the wood gets processed so much after that point that it doesn't seem to make a difference. But if you ever see fisheyes or some other impurity-related issues with your finish, you might want to switch wax without silicone.
@wilson2262 You might have misunderstood Wilson. The fence never really needs to be set to the table. It only needs to be set to the angle of the blade.
Incredible well performed and explained.
@desb63 Well I would definitely try the blade in the center. The other thing you may want to try is putting some sort of adhesive between the wheel and the tire. Just enough to stop it from slipping.
I see what you're saying. I honestly rarely use my miter gauge on the bandsaw anyway so it never really affects my work.
One thing i didn't see discussed here was alignment of the guide height adjuster. I have a tannewitz 20" that doesn't seem to raise and lower properly with the blade. I notice that the guide bearings will be adjusted well at one height, and then after adjusting the guide height one or the other bearings will rub the blade. This is also true with the thrust bearing. At one height there will be clearance and then after adjusting the height it will rub the blade.
@NancyToday I think you might just hav a very dull blade. If the wood were wet, it might actually cut faster. So I would try installing a new after-market blade.
@missionron Thanks man. I have been pretty lucky with my bandsaw tires and I never really had to attach new ones. I don't envy the project. Perhaps it might slide on easier with a little soapy water?
As for truing the tire, the best method I saw for this was using a little adjustable jig on the inside of the case under the wheel. Sandpaper on an adjustable piece of wood.
Well the thing is, 4 thousandths is a very small amount. It doesn't take much for the blade to start making contact. So if after setting the blade at .004" you still see the bearing moving, I wouldn't worry about it too much.
I upgraded to the carters when I installed the height extension block on my 14 inch delta. the quality could be better for the price but with the proper setup I can get some pretty thin veneer out of the mesquite I have been collecting
I always look forward to your videos and think I have seen most of them that are on here. I really really needed this one!!! Thanks for all of the ideas and help you have given me with these.
Good info, you are a good sport with great humor.
Ignore the tension gauge on the saw. And the amount of deflection depends on the size of the saw.
Excellent explanation of the process,well done.
What a great help you have been. Lots better than my instruction manual! When I am cutting a block of wood, it cuts incredibly slowly, like a mm per five seconds. As soon as I put any pressure on it, the blade touches the little brake behind it. is my wood too wet?
You do a fantastic job explaining the work. Thanks!
LOL "not that finger you silly guys" Good show due to that fact that I forgot how to fold a band saw blade.
That was a super-quick reply, thanks!!! I'm going to look for these products tomorrow!
I never liked woodworking at school :E But I enjoy these videos, it's nice to see what other people can do hmm..
@oisincasey I don't have a list unfortunately. I like to keep my options open so I only know the next project in line, which is an adirondack chair done up in the Greene & Greene style. Should be pretty sweet! If you ever have the urge to joint, we'd be happy to have you!
well any blade is going to be an upgrade. But whether you get the 4 or 6 tpi really depends on the quality of cut you are after. In softwoods, I would think 4 tpi would be just fine. Generally I like to have my blades multi-task as much as possible, making some compromises here and there. I really don't like changing blades any more than is absolutely necessary.
Bandsaw sizes are not referring to any particular diameter. Instead, they are referring to the throat depth. Essentially, the distance between the back arm of the saw and the blade. It essentially says you won't be able to cut a piece greater than X inches wide without hitting the back support. Make sense?
Thank you for the info I have been having problems with my bandsaw I am sure this will help me
Good Info, thanks for sharing, BTW, the Wife push is great ! got to remeber to use that one "well I have to test it, so I know how much pressure to use to set my bandsaw up", LOL !
Great vid, Marc. I think the REAL trick to folding the blade is the "Wa-na-na-na-na-na" sound effect !! (:^D) I especially liked the cast iron table top prep info...good stuff.
Hey torgy! Unfortunately man, I don't think they come in round. But, you could always use a wooden dowel if you want to switch to something non-metal. Hard maple might work. Not sure how well it will perform though compared to the metal that's there now. Sure would be quieter though.
Thanks Marc. I almost thought you said 'These aren't the droids your looking for'.
You always amaze me how quickly you reply even in you tube comments, I don't know how you keep up with it all. Hope your move into the new workshop is going well, bet you can't wait to start working in your new area. Exciting stuff! I would have come to help if I wasn't on the other side of the world.
I better watch the full video before commenting in future, sorry to have bothered you.
@missionron haha thanks. That is the old shop though. I am currently in a 3-car garage, which is still nothing to laugh at. But definitely much smaller than the old space.
this is the video you're looking for.
@oisincasey Sorry to hear about that. And you use the T9 Boeshield stuff?? That's suppose to be bullet proof against rust. Well, to clean off the new rust, I would lubricate with some WD-400 and scrub it down with an abrasive pad. YOu can get them at the home center. It won't be as aggressive as sandpaper and you can scrub all the rust out.
I have never used them myself but I don't see anyone having issues with them. Seems like a solid investment to me.
Thank you once again for a video than answers more than everything!
I use industrial grade saw blades and their recommendation is anthing above and including 3/8 should be real tight, no matter what the saw manufacturer suggests. if you use bearing guides those should touch the blade right behind the kerf. no paper shims or anything, just set the bearings so they are touching the blade and tighten them. with this setup I started getting some pretty nice results resawing. thin blades for curves should be tight too, but not much cause they can put a groove in the tire. I only use this blades when I really need them. these blades are not at all expensive, 6 feet cost around 10-15 EUR. for a saw like yours you would probably get a single decent blade for about 50 USD
@OLDMANSBALLBAG hey john. have you gone through the full setup and calibration procedure recommended in this video? Also, make sure you have a nice sharp blade installed. Hopefully its just a dull blade and not something wrong with the saw.
Outstanding video. Thanks for putting it together!
Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass says DON'T coplanar look it up he makes sense.
exactly...yet he says he doesnt check it. If he he did he may find they are not coplanar anyway... there is so much mis-information on the you-tube you really have to sift through it. i am glad i heard about snodgrass's video before beating my brains out trying to get it to be co-planar and cut nice. now it will cut a 6 inch block off in 6x6 slivers 1/16 of an inch thick.. and that fence drift compensations is not necessary using snod grass's technique. I wonder if these guys ever study their competitions techniques to see if there is a better way?
Mr.Weezbad Of course we do. But I can't exactly go back in time and change the words I said two years before the Snodgrass video showed up on UA-cam. ;)
@@woodwhisperer There is editing…
A crown really isn't necessary. Lots of bandsaws have perfectly flat wheels so if you are truing it up, I'd just make it easy on yourself and create a flat. But if you are just cleaning the tires up, you might simply try spinning the wheel manually while applying sancpaper to the tire with hand pressure. That way you'll just keep the original shape and clean any crud off the surface. Re-shaping the rubber tire is really a last resort.
Thanks. I might do just that, try to find a blade that I could use for different tasks instead of having to change blades often. Thanks!
@MrDanthefisherman1 Without knowing more about each saw, I would probably go with the Delta.
They make great kindling. :)
I enjoy a lot of the Wood Wisperer but I have to disagree with him on this video. I set up my band saw the way Alex Snodgrass instructs us to and what a difference. follow his instruction and be impressed with the results. I have no drift in my cuts either which was my major issue along with coplane and the reason why its a no no. check out Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass. Its 35:13 long and worth it.
Totally agree with you. He is the got to teacher in bandsaw practice!
Very nice love your style
@chaddythewoodpecker You can actually buy "cool blocks" from a woodworking supply. Should do the trick nicely.
No, I already know that Jedi mind tricks don't work on other Jedi. :) Glad to help my friend. Day 2 in the new shop. Still lots of setup and cleanup to do but it's pretty exciting.
I'd say anything that's about 3 TPI with big gullets. Probably 1/2" or 3/8" wide.
You can do that, but keep in mind you're going to want to replace them someday. Honestly, if they are that loose I think you're best and safest bet is a replacement.
Whatever is on the shelf at Lowes or HD. I honestly never paid much attention to the brand. :)
You should update this and have Alex Snodgrass on. He’s the bandsaw pro and also a Powermatic rep.
We did. You should look at our more recent videos
@HarderThanCalculus lol sure. but she is quite expensive. Services like that are hard to find. :)
Where's the video where you fold the blade. I always forget, was just watching other methods but still can't do it, your method was the best I think. my blade is smaller so I can't do it like the other videos I see with people folding longer blades.
Great job! Keep the videos coming!
That was very informative
hi there, please could any1 help me ! i have just purchased a 350w bandsaw, i am using it to cut 20mm hardwood, it seems to work fine in a straight line but when i try and cut a curve the blade stops moving, my blade is 1425mm x 6.35mm x 0.3mm, any advice would be much appreciated, john
Yup, same stuff.
Very helpful! thanks! I wish I could get you over for coffee to help me sopr thru some problems!
thanks for the answer this is my band saw(JWBS-14CS ) i can not pass the nickel test. but this might be silly but it will hold aPocket Hole Screws standing
thanks again marc
Dude!! You rock dude!!
Ok I'll just keep them flat. The tires stay on the wheel but I can easily push the off with gentle pressure. Do you think it might be a good idea to run a bead of glue in them?
How would i true the bandsaw tires? (i have the same saw as yours here) 24"
its the only thing i havent tried, i want to get a grip on the vibration...i know there was tension on the tires for a long time. (i did buy new tires but cant get the darn things on! So ill try whatever you can spare the time to tell me Mark.
Your podcasts are unmatched in detail and cherished by many woodworkers i suspect . Thank you!
@jaramima Thanks very much!
Hi, Is it enough to just have the fence at right angles to the cut/drift? surely the whole table must also be set otherwise the miter track will be out, any cuts using the Miter gauge would take the timber off the line of the drift.
Probably something like 80 grit.
hi narc
great video , i got my first band saw ,and i have some vibration,how much vibration is acceptable in band saw.
big fan man thanks
Ok, Would you sand them flat? I was thinking to used a curved block for the sand paper to get the crown.
Can I use a Auto wax on the cast iron? I have some Collinite on hand... great car wax!
i have a skill band saw an OK starter saw. It has metal rods to keep the blade from any right or left play and a bearing behind the blade. They all have round stock. So do either of the 2 types of non metal come in round stock
thank you Chevy Chase
LOL
Do you suggest putting on this rust preventative on the surface of a scroll saw too?
did you sand down the tires on this bandsaw? and is your saw sitting directly on concrete? also, was it necessasary to adjust for drift,or was that just a demo to show your viewers? Thanks Mark,
What blade would you consider a "multi-task blade"? I do lot of ripping on the BS but I would love to be able to resaw with the same blade. I have found a hardwood supplier near so that's all I'm going to use from here...
No offense intended but may I suggest you watch Alex Snodgrass' 35 minute video on tuning up a band saw, it's on UA-cam. And yes there really is an Alex Snodgrass.
Never heard of the guy. ua-cam.com/video/bxVyKsbuwZQ/v-deo.html
Great great video! Thank you!
Bandsaw wheels must Not be co planer otherwise the blade can run off of the bottom wheel when adjusting the blade position correctly on the top wheel, the wheels are deliberately set "out" of co planer by the makers,,, DO NOT interfere with this!!
You are absolutely correct!! The top wheel is adjusted by tilting it out or in. There is no way they can be co-planar.
chris bond OK, makes sense. So what's "spec" and how do you check / adjust? I recently inherited a saw (probably 40-50s vintage),, no manual and the original owner... well, you know 😧)
@@WillBravoNotEvil Put the blade on the wheels, snug it up and turn the wheel by hand, watching how the blade tracks. Forget about the wheels being co-planar. The upper wheel is the only one that tilts. Turn the adjusting knob so that the blade tracks with the bottom of the gullet in the center of the tire.
I am also a drummer, can a drum dial be repurposed as a calibration tool for like setting the blade on a jointer? Or measuring the wobble on a rotor in a band saw?
Love your vids...very informative and helpful. I need to adjust the blade tension on my Rikon 14" 10-325. Can I borrow your wife to help me get the blade tension set properly?
Hi Marc,I am having problems with my new startrite 502e bandsaw,the tyre on the upper bandwheel keeps slipping and jamming the machine,I think it may be my blade position as I set the teeth just forward of the bandwheel,this is what I was told to do,but I am thinking now it may be best to take the blade into the centre of the tyre. tension is set with the pointer inside the machine to match blade size,Any help would be appreciated thank you.
I think it may be time to change my blade. I am getting a lot of drift no matter what I do. It seems when I push material through, the blade hits the bearing behind it and it causes it to twist and drift. Any thoughts?
Ok, I'll consider getting some new ones. Whats your opinion on Urethane tires?
Hey Mark, so I just got my first Bandsaw, I'm adjusting the blade guides now (bearing type)... the manual says the lateral bearings have to be adjusted 0.004" away from the blade or the thickness of a dollar bill. So my question is, are the bearing supposed to move when I turn the band saw ON? like all the time? Funny how i said 3 months ago in a comment that i burn manuals and here I am a bit confused FAIL haha Thanks!
Hmm....I wonder if the blade is slipping. Perhaps it isn't tight enough.
great video!!!!
just curious im trying to set up my bandsaw and when i try to cut a piece of wood the blade starts to turn to one side and ends up cutting off the wood at an angle please can some one tell me how to remdy this
How often do you have to reajust the blade drift? thank you Bob !
Just keep the gullet in the centre of the wheel; your blade will not drift.
You might want to mention vacuuming the saw before rounding over the back of the blade. Sparks and sawdust aren't a good combination.
Thank you
Mark, I enjoy your podcasts and have learned a ton from watching them. I was wondering if you had seen Alex Snodgrass video regarding bandsaw setup. He challenges some of the conventional thinking on centering the blade. Since this was one of your earlier videos, I wondered if you had changed you approach any.
The two approaches are not all that different. His greatly simplifies things though, which is awesome. The primary difference is adjusting the blade for drift. Much easier to get the blade where it should be to avoid having to deal with drift at all.