I remember I bought an unofficial hard drive upgrade for my 1200 back in the day and it came with the 3.5” hard drive because the 2.5” where more expensive. In the instructions it said about using cardboard on the bottom to stop it shorting out on the motherboard and that there would be a slight bulge in the top of the case. That hard drive lead was probably supplied like that rather then someone hacking it at home… totally worth it so you didn’t have to swap disks playing games like wing commander. Good luck with it, there’s a lot of work there if you want to make it original again but a motherboard that works with no battery corrosion is most of the battle
Thank you for sharing That info about your experience with this type of mod. Makes a lot of sense and functional if the drive wasn't failing I might be tempted to keep it. It's going to be a lot of work but it's been a lot of fun so far. And as you say the motherboards 1/2 the battle I could but a new case of I had too but I'm holding out hope for this one.
Thats how we did it back in the day in the UK with the A1200. It was much cheaper to fit a 3.5" hard drive instead of a 2.5" one which also gave more storage. Although unlike the one in the video we would remove the RF shield which reduced the height making it a little easier to screw the case back together. I think it was fitted because of US regulations but my A1200 had it removed withing 2 months of buying it.
Thanks for the info @TechNretro :) I knew that the RF shield was for US regulations same as in a lot of commodore machines but was unaware of how common it was to use 3.5 inch drives in the 1200 it totally makes sense given the cost difference specially back then. I was thinking I might put back it in but it's on it's way out so it will be replaced. I am going to try and image it before it dies and see whats on it. I suppose taking the shield off would give more room for larger drive. Also as I don't "need" it if its shot I'll just pitch it but I would like to save it if i can. Cheers!
Those pins in the I/O ports need a good scrub with a fibre glass pencil or scourer. This might help the mouse work. Have a think about what you want in the trapdoor. Accelerators are expensive but a mem expansion is a must with a hard drive, especially if you want WHD load. GOTEKS are popular - but are fiddly if you need floppy drive. There are some good micro SD adapters that plug straight into that IDE port to replace the mechanical hard drive too. And workbench 3.2.1 has just been released.
I owned a new 1200 back in the day after replacing a 500. Such amazing memories. This machine must have been stored in a leaky basement or outdoor shed to be that dirty and rusty.
Thank for the comment. I sold my 500 to help pay for a 3000 back in the day I then bought my CD32 but have wanted a 1200 for a long time now. I'm thinking you're right about this one having been stored in a shed etc. 🤢 But I'm going to do my best to get it sorted .
My 1200 keyboard went bad --- had to change over to an PC-Key 1200 adapter. My 600 keyboard also went bad --- had the piggy back on chip USB adapter for a while, now have the 'Hard' membrane with replaceable ribbon.
I'm hearing more and more about how the 1200's membrane suffers from this kind of damage. If I can't fix it I'm thinking I'll replace it with the PCB "hard" type too.
So just a thought. I'm almost positive the keyboard has to be plugged in for the mouse to work. Fixing the cut cord on your keyboard might do the trick.
Thanks for the feedback. looking at the schematics I don't see any reason that the keyboard would need to be plugged in for the mouse to work. 🧐 I do plan on fixing the keyboard first so it will be interesting to see if that sorts the mouse out but I have my doubts though I'll be happy if I'm wrong 🤓
Lol it weighs a ton with that drive that's getting swapped out. Good thinking on the 5volts I was hoping that was the issue too but checked it and that's ok. Doing the recap then onto more diagnosis.
you know you could have instead got the opposite connection to the round one and put a length of wire on it and then connected that wire to the square connector. that way you could retain the original power supply plug and also you have an adaptor as well. but each to their own i guess good work on the soldering
Thanks for the comment. I had put that one on the shelf as I had all the CD32 PSU's I needed. but your suggestion is not a bad one. Maybe I'll make an adapter with a female square din on one end and a round din on the other.
Hiya if you soak the case in concentrated Degreaser diluted with boiling water it may just lift that paint straight off (depending on what type of paint it is) be sure to wear gloves with the degreaser. It can irritate the skin.
Thanks for the comment @Donnald Hoot. I have heat shrink tubing, I used it on the PSU cord. For that I stripped the individual wires short to keep the cord length. So on those connections it would have been problematic while soldering to keep the heat away from the heat shrink tubing. To deal with that I used electrical tape on the individual wires then used Heat shrink tubing over the top.
Hello Philip. Thanks for the comment. I know its technically not needed but I'm going to try and keep the shield if I can. If is too far gone, I'll scrap it or replace it but its good to have the option of not using it at all 👍. same with the floppy if I can get it working great if not I'll try and source an Amiga drive or as you say replace it with a modded PC drive.
Not sure, I haven't actually sand blasted anything before but I think it might be too destructive a process. I'm open trying if nothing else works we will see.
@@32Bits I'm no experts for this, too. But I think the secret lies in the hardness of the particles used for blasting.Using something weaker than the plastic should in theory leave it unharmed, unless applied with too much pressure for too long of course, as we all know that even dripping water can hollow stone. Maybe sugar for example.
I just found your channel and I like your content. Subscribed. Please, increase voice volume, many times the noises (unwrapping, etc) are louder than your voice. It is difficult to follow you, had to activate subtitles. Thanks.
@@elmariachi5133 Agree that would be awesome! what would the specs of an A12000 be? Tower case? 060 for sure. CD drive? Maybe an a1200 with the hombre chipset?
@@32Bits Good... Nice to hear. If you can restore it to working condition, then it is the best. If you can not save the case, then there is these newly produced ones.
@@brostenen You never know, the purple paint ghastly as that is to me, might have done you a solid and protected it from UV so you might not need to retro bright it. On the other hand, that might be why they painted it in the first place.
Looking forward to see how this one turns out!
Thank you, me too 😄
Good fun restoring it
Thanks @Not a cop I really like this type of work. I find the process of restoring something is very satisfying and kinda therapeutic.
I remember I bought an unofficial hard drive upgrade for my 1200 back in the day and it came with the 3.5” hard drive because the 2.5” where more expensive. In the instructions it said about using cardboard on the bottom to stop it shorting out on the motherboard and that there would be a slight bulge in the top of the case. That hard drive lead was probably supplied like that rather then someone hacking it at home… totally worth it so you didn’t have to swap disks playing games like wing commander. Good luck with it, there’s a lot of work there if you want to make it original again but a motherboard that works with no battery corrosion is most of the battle
Thank you for sharing That info about your experience with this type of mod. Makes a lot of sense and functional if the drive wasn't failing I might be tempted to keep it. It's going to be a lot of work but it's been a lot of fun so far. And as you say the motherboards 1/2 the battle I could but a new case of I had too but I'm holding out hope for this one.
Well least you had another idea 😉
Thats how we did it back in the day in the UK with the A1200.
It was much cheaper to fit a 3.5" hard drive instead of a 2.5" one which also gave more storage.
Although unlike the one in the video we would remove the RF shield which reduced the height making it a little easier to screw the case back together.
I think it was fitted because of US regulations but my A1200 had it removed withing 2 months of buying it.
Thanks for the info @TechNretro :) I knew that the RF shield was for US regulations same as in a lot of commodore machines but was unaware of how common it was to use 3.5 inch drives in the 1200 it totally makes sense given the cost difference specially back then. I was thinking I might put back it in but it's on it's way out so it will be replaced. I am going to try and image it before it dies and see whats on it. I suppose taking the shield off would give more room for larger drive. Also as I don't "need" it if its shot I'll just pitch it but I would like to save it if i can. Cheers!
Interested in seeing a follow up !
That’s impressive! A full size HDD in there! Wow. Haha.
Had one in mine also a massive 420mb haha. Mine fitted a lot better. It was a kit I bought, so had a correct short ide cable.
Those pins in the I/O ports need a good scrub with a fibre glass pencil or scourer. This might help the mouse work. Have a think about what you want in the trapdoor. Accelerators are expensive but a mem expansion is a must with a hard drive, especially if you want WHD load. GOTEKS are popular - but are fiddly if you need floppy drive. There are some good micro SD adapters that plug straight into that IDE port to replace the mechanical hard drive too. And workbench 3.2.1 has just been released.
Thanks for the feedback. Working through the issues now. Going to do upgrades after the fixes.
Wow endless rust on that thing, great video can't wait to see the rest, that paint needs to go lol
So much rust lol. Been working on that and the paint stay tuned for part2.
I find such color's insulting. I'm more of a classic retro fan.
I owned a new 1200 back in the day after replacing a 500. Such amazing memories. This machine must have been stored in a leaky basement or outdoor shed to be that dirty and rusty.
Thank for the comment. I sold my 500 to help pay for a 3000 back in the day I then bought my CD32 but have wanted a 1200 for a long time now. I'm thinking you're right about this one having been stored in a shed etc. 🤢 But I'm going to do my best to get it sorted .
My 1200 keyboard went bad --- had to change over to an PC-Key 1200 adapter.
My 600 keyboard also went bad --- had the piggy back on chip USB adapter for a while,
now have the 'Hard' membrane with replaceable ribbon.
I'm hearing more and more about how the 1200's membrane suffers from this kind of damage. If I can't fix it I'm thinking I'll replace it with the PCB "hard" type too.
So just a thought. I'm almost positive the keyboard has to be plugged in for the mouse to work. Fixing the cut cord on your keyboard might do the trick.
Thanks for the feedback. looking at the schematics I don't see any reason that the keyboard would need to be plugged in for the mouse to work. 🧐 I do plan on fixing the keyboard first so it will be interesting to see if that sorts the mouse out but I have my doubts though I'll be happy if I'm wrong 🤓
@@32Bits That might have been an old Atari pc I had that was that way. Please let me know if it does turn out to be that.
@@malican1978 will do 👍
"It's heavier than it should be",
Maybe no 5Volt going to the mouse. Easier to fix than replacing the MUX for the quadrature pulses.
Lol it weighs a ton with that drive that's getting swapped out. Good thinking on the 5volts I was hoping that was the issue too but checked it and that's ok. Doing the recap then onto more diagnosis.
you know you could have instead got the opposite connection to the round one and put a length of wire on it and then connected that wire to the square connector. that way you could retain the original power supply plug and also you have an adaptor as well.
but each to their own i guess good work on the soldering
Thanks for the comment. I had put that one on the shelf as I had all the CD32 PSU's I needed. but your suggestion is not a bad one. Maybe I'll make an adapter with a female square din on one end and a round din on the other.
Hiya if you soak the case in concentrated Degreaser diluted with boiling water it may just lift that paint straight off (depending on what type of paint it is) be sure to wear gloves with the degreaser. It can irritate the skin.
Nice project, enjoyed the video thanks :)
Thanks for the feedback 🙂
Get some heat shrink tubing, cheap and neat!
Thanks for the comment @Donnald Hoot. I have heat shrink tubing, I used it on the PSU cord. For that I stripped the individual wires short to keep the cord length. So on those connections it would have been problematic while soldering to keep the heat away from the heat shrink tubing. To deal with that I used electrical tape on the individual wires then used Heat shrink tubing over the top.
Don't need the rf shield, throw it away. Easy to convert pc floppy to amiga
Hello Philip. Thanks for the comment. I know its technically not needed but I'm going to try and keep the shield if I can. If is too far gone, I'll scrap it or replace it but its good to have the option of not using it at all 👍. same with the floppy if I can get it working great if not I'll try and source an Amiga drive or as you say replace it with a modded PC drive.
I wonder if such an enclosure could be saved by sandblasting.. without dissolving the enclosure of course xD
Not sure, I haven't actually sand blasted anything before but I think it might be too destructive a process. I'm open trying if nothing else works we will see.
@@32Bits I'm no experts for this, too. But I think the secret lies in the hardness of the particles used for blasting.Using something weaker than the plastic should in theory leave it unharmed, unless applied with too much pressure for too long of course, as we all know that even dripping water can hollow stone. Maybe sugar for example.
I just found your channel and I like your content. Subscribed.
Please, increase voice volume, many times the noises (unwrapping, etc) are louder than your voice. It is difficult to follow you, had to activate subtitles. Thanks.
Thanks for the feedback and the sub. I'm working the dialing in the audio should be better on part 3.
Nice video. Just bought one to renovate myself. How much did you payt if you don’t mind my asking?
Thank you martin glad you liked it. How's your 1200 restoration going?
Your thumbnail says "12000". We've all done typos! 🤣
Well maybe when its done I'll put a 12000 badge on it lol. Thanks for the heads up. fixed it :)
@@32Bits These things happens. 😀 I'm looking forward to seeing your series on it. I've enjoyed pimping mine out.
Man, the A12000 would have been great for sure :)
@@elmariachi5133 Agree that would be awesome! what would the specs of an A12000 be? Tower case? 060 for sure. CD drive? Maybe an a1200 with the hombre chipset?
bare minimum the person that painted that machine purple should be sued for cruelty.
Agreed
Sorry to say this. But everything except the motherboard is basically trash. I hope you got 66 percent off in that state.
Percentages are arbitrary these days but yes I did get it for what I thought was a fair price for the condition it was in. I'm hoping to save it.
@@32Bits Good... Nice to hear. If you can restore it to working condition, then it is the best. If you can not save the case, then there is these newly produced ones.
Na, I've seen UA-camr do restorations on worse cases it's salvageable just depends on his skill set.
@@timjroughton9931 It is just a last resort that I am talking about. 😉
@@brostenen You never know, the purple paint ghastly as that is to me, might have done you a solid and protected it from UV so you might not need to retro bright it. On the other hand, that might be why they painted it in the first place.
poor unit!
Doing my best to save it 🙂