Super cool stuff man! I've been in that boat before. Not that I'm looking forward to HAVING to do it, but thanks to YOU for sharing this so I know what to do when it does happen. 😉
That's a great idea. I had a screw stuck in the wall at home, so I got 2 dump trucks of alum, and stacked it around the house, waited for it to rain heavily, and then set a fire in the basement, keeping it going with a truckload of coal. After 3 days, I found all the walls had come off the screws.
@@JustPlaneCrazy Thanks for the answer. I wanted to give you a thumbs up, but it seems wrong. Unfortunately it is a fairly expensive custom machine part that our apprentice tried to handle on his own, while forgetting the chip breaking
Great tip! I just broke a 1mm carbide drill bit off in brass. Will the alum work on carbide? No. It's non-ferrous. Then I broke an HSS drill bit off in brass again. Alum should work on HSS. I wonder how well the alum corrosion will work down in a small 1mm hole? Anyway, great tip ... especially for removing broken taps. BTW, I always tap using my DeWalt cordless drill. I very rarely break a tap ... being very attentive to how much torque feedback I feel while tapping.
Aluminum Sulfate (Alum) dissolved in tap water, 4 oz/qt, works well in removing carbon steel taps when submerged in a boiling solution. It is also effective in removing such taps from ferrous stainless steels 303, 304, 347 and 316, but not the 400 series of stainless, which is attacked.
Lol. I have been learning all my life. I am a good study. I have been doing RC for almost 30 years. I have built many things many ways. I just share what worked what didn’t and what I have discovered along the way. Feel free to share the channel it’s always appreciated and check out the official Just Plane Crazy Facebook page and the Instagram
Had a similar issue with a 2.5mm tap in a bronze casting, but I just used some ordinary decalcification tablets. A quick rub with scotch bright and it was good as new.
Maybe that works, but it's a little too crazy. If the tap, nail or drill bit is close to the surface what you need to do is remove material around it. You do this with file, carbide burr, angle grinder...you need a minimum of 3mm sticking out, maybe 4mm. Then you take out your trustworthy vice grips and pull it out. Normally if you brake off a drill bit about 1mm is sticking out. This is the best and sannest way.
@@JustPlaneCrazy I used 8oz of Alum, it’s still boiling as we speak. If it doesn’t work I have to start machining another block of Aluminum. I hope your right. Going on 3 hours now.
@@JustPlaneCrazy well, I decided to go a different route. Being that it was a pilot hole and needed to go bigger I took a end mill and machined around the drill bit. And then I could finish off with the size hole needed. Thanks for the idea but I am on a tight schedule as it is. May try it again at a later date.
@@dubehigh I used 3.50z Alum & it has 50% partially worked. My aluminum pan is 4 x 8 x 3.5, so I'm headed to get more Alum. It is a #12-24 threaded hole & it was smoking. But my part turned HAZY....
I had a tap broken in a block of aluminum & had it in boiling water saturated with with alum, for 2 six hour periods & the tap is still in it! This "method " doesn't work!
Super cool stuff man! I've been in that boat before. Not that I'm looking forward to HAVING to do it, but thanks to YOU for sharing this so I know what to do when it does happen. 😉
That's a great idea. I had a screw stuck in the wall at home, so I got 2 dump trucks of alum, and stacked it around the house, waited for it to rain heavily, and then set a fire in the basement, keeping it going with a truckload of coal. After 3 days, I found all the walls had come off the screws.
Guess you have never had a drill bit or tap broken off in something important. You would be willing to try anything.
Bit of a douche aren't you david.. 😬😅
I broke a carbide drill trying to vent a brass flintlock barrel. I’ll give this a try
Any idea for a 3mm hardened steel tap in 316 Stainless Steel?
Hole is open and about 6mm deep
Unfortunately no. That sounds like a terrible situation
@@JustPlaneCrazy Thanks for the answer. I wanted to give you a thumbs up, but it seems wrong. Unfortunately it is a fairly expensive custom machine part that our apprentice tried to handle on his own, while forgetting the chip breaking
What's alum? Is it the same like aluin? The stuff they use for shaving? Can it be used on black painted aluminium without the color come off?
Great tip! I just broke a 1mm carbide drill bit off in brass. Will the alum work on carbide? No. It's non-ferrous. Then I broke an HSS drill bit off in brass again. Alum should work on HSS. I wonder how well the alum corrosion will work down in a small 1mm hole? Anyway, great tip ... especially for removing broken taps. BTW, I always tap using my DeWalt cordless drill. I very rarely break a tap ... being very attentive to how much torque feedback I feel while tapping.
wonder if this would work for a steel drill bit in a brass figurine leg.
Not sure
Do you have any tricks for titanium coated drill bits broke off into steel
Unfortunately not. Sounds like a sucky situation
@@JustPlaneCrazy it first happened with a center punch and I tried to drill it out and that’s how the bit broke off 😅
@Nihilus0017 yeah. Sounds crappy
New trick I learned today. Thanks Plane Crazy 👍🏻🖖🏻✌🏻
U have any idea to remove broken thread gauge from steel part
Heat and tap with a chisel
Would this work with a a tap stuck in titanium?
I wouldn’t see why not
Make sure to use a class or non ferrous container. Water and Lye (drain-o) will remove alum but do it outside, off gas is bad for you
Super work again, know how is the best way Thanks.
Aluminum Sulfate (Alum) dissolved in tap water, 4 oz/qt, works well in removing carbon steel taps when submerged in a boiling solution. It is also effective in removing such taps from ferrous stainless steels 303, 304, 347 and 316, but not the 400 series of stainless, which is attacked.
I remember we had aluminium seat post stucked in metal frame bicycle. We cooked it out, with different, aluminium eating chemical.
Another fantastic tip! How long have you been doing this, all your life?
Lol. I have been learning all my life. I am a good study. I have been doing RC for almost 30 years. I have built many things many ways. I just share what worked what didn’t and what I have discovered along the way. Feel free to share the channel it’s always appreciated and check out the official Just Plane Crazy Facebook page and the Instagram
@@JustPlaneCrazy When I removed the rest of the tap from my anodized part, the surface as hazy.... What did I do wrong?
Polish it up. Sometimes anodizing may come off in the process. Not sure
Had a similar issue with a 2.5mm tap in a bronze casting, but I just used some ordinary decalcification tablets. A quick rub with scotch bright and it was good as new.
Nice. Cool tip thanks
Thanks for sharing!
Might get to try this trick out now
Well Slick, nice trick. How about broken tap in STEEL?????
Torch
Maybe that works, but it's a little too crazy.
If the tap, nail or drill bit is close to the surface what you need to do is remove material around it.
You do this with file, carbide burr, angle grinder...you need a minimum of 3mm sticking out, maybe 4mm.
Then you take out your trustworthy vice grips and pull it out. Normally if you brake off a drill bit about 1mm is sticking out.
This is the best and sannest way.
Lol. Trusty vise grips. Ok.
Doesn’t sound like you’ve broken many taps lol
I can’t very well place my outboard in a bucket for this process
You can. You just need a big bucket
Flawless? Wow Mr Perfect is in the house ?
This probably wouldn't work with non-magnetic 300 series stainless steel huh 🤔 😢
I would probably say it wouldn’t.
Just tried this with a broken drill bit in a block Aluminum.
It didn’t work.
$10 of Alum and two hours wasted.
Not sure why but it will. Has to boil and boil with a saturated amount of alum. For as long as needed. It’s tried and true.
@@JustPlaneCrazy I used 8oz of Alum, it’s still boiling as we speak.
If it doesn’t work I have to start machining another block of Aluminum. I hope your right. Going on 3 hours now.
I added enough alum that the water was saturated like it no longer would absorb it
@@JustPlaneCrazy well, I decided to go a different route. Being that it was a pilot hole and needed to go bigger I took a end mill and machined around the drill bit.
And then I could finish off with the size hole needed. Thanks for the idea but I am on a tight schedule as it is. May try it again at a later date.
@@dubehigh I used 3.50z Alum & it has 50% partially worked. My aluminum pan is 4 x 8 x 3.5, so I'm headed to get more Alum. It is a #12-24 threaded hole & it was smoking. But my part turned HAZY....
We share the same philosophy!
Cool. Btw I subbed
I had a tap broken in a block of aluminum & had it in boiling water saturated with with alum, for 2 six hour periods & the tap is still in it! This "method " doesn't work!
It does. Vid isn’t fake
So basically you heated up the aluminum until it swelled up and make hole bigger
No. The chemical reaction of the alum fully dissolved the tap. There was nothing left of it in the pot
1:37- 1 /1/2 hours baking in Alum?!?!?!? DUDE, that is CLEARLY boiling!!! OH grwta , non ferrous like aluminum? I want my 4 minutes back!!!