HOW TO Bring a Lawnmower Back From the DEAD.. Been sitting, How To Diagnose, Broken parts Fixed!
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- Jeff's Little Engine Service gives an in depth look at HOW TO Bring a Lawnmower Back From The Dead. The Lawn mower has been sitting and will not run and won't start. Starter pull rope mechanism was broken and I replaced, carburetor cleaned and all problems fixed. Remove engine cover, dipstick, spark plug, air filter. WATCH ALL PROBLEMS GET FIXED.
PLEASE KEEP IN MIND when you are watching my videos: I am showing you the least expensive, quickest "backyard" methods for repairing or servicing your lawnmower. Replacing all components such as gaskets and fuel lines is always recommended when rebuilding or repairing equipment. With these videos I hope you are able to fix and repair your lawnmower yourself with minimal parts, knowledge and tools. Always work safe. Thank you for watching!
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Great video with simple steps. I fixed my 190cc B $ S by following your directions. Thanks.
Thanks for posting this video. It gives a lot of good clear pointers as to maintaining a small engine. They will last a long time. I still use my Lowe's-purchased Bolens with B&S 15 years later and it still starts on the first pull. Other than oil, air filter, spark plug, pull start, fuel line, and blades being replaced, it has served it's purpose.
Just bought 33 old Mowers today, gonna put on my Jeff's Small Engine Repair t shirt and get to work.
Jeff, you're the best and I wanna thank you for the knowledge you have shared with us...
I personally have gained so much from watching your videos that have started servicing my own equipments.....
thanks again bro....
Thanks Ike! You're welcome, I am glad you have been watching.
Very nice video Jeff. You really know your stuff on these mowers. Thanks for sharing .
When you have it apart, why don't you clean the covers, etc., so if you are going to sell it, it's clean when you get it running? It's harder to clean after putting it all back together. If it's super clean, you can get top dollar for it.
A very well thought out video. Good demonstration. Thanks.
I spewed my water when you said 12. Lol
I cried I laughed so hard
I bought this same mower at an auction. The blade was so out of balance that it tore the deck mounts out of the deck. lol. I got it running nice though and did some welding to fix the deck.
Comfortable audio level and good close-ups, when you provided them-- especially, the final close shot of the carburetor float. (1) With mowers whose fuel tanks are dirty, what is your best method for cleaning thoroughly, to avoid problems much later? (2) How to remove dirt in the deeper recesses of the typical gas tank? (3) What cleaning solution to use? (4) For end-of-season storage, do you recommend draining both fuel and oil from the engine, or leaving both in the engine for periodic starts during the idle months? (5) On securing the carburetor bowl, "finger tight" on fastening the bowl nut is usually not enough, since gas will leak without using a wrench. So, how to gauge torque without having to use the "gas drip test"? As you point out, stripping the brass-composition nut is too easy. Although this is not a Ferrari engine, a little care goes a long way.
Thanks for the comment. I usually just empty the tank and let the remaining gas evaporate out while sitting in the sun. Then I blow compressed air into the tank and all the dried up sediment blows out. No additional cleaning product is usually necessary. Finger tight is definitely not enough. Tighten it well until snug(enough to squish the float bowl gaskt to seal). I recommend using a fuel stabilizer over the winter and keep the mower protected from rain and snow (inside storage is best). I do not empty fluids during storage of 6-8 months. It's a good idea to start up the mower every 1-2 months during storage, if possible.
Thanks for that-- I had read the same, elsewhere, on the general idea nothing is better for an engine than to be run regularly. With high-ethanol gas, a fuel stabilizer is even more important.
*** Readers-- write your congressperson to repeal the ethanol bill which created the ethanol gasoline industry. Green voters already know the ethanol bill was a payoff to midWestern grain conglomerates, not a boon to the environment, and fouls the ecology of rivers and the Gulf of Mexico.
A battery impact drill saves alot of time
Good luck 👍
Thanks 👍
Quality Control Dog there at the end.
Lab results came back positive.
There Is Also A Minute Hole At The Top Of The Threads. You Should NOT Blow Through The Fuel Line Unless It Is Un-Attached. The Way He Done It You Can Dislodge The SEAT In The Carburetor Where The Needle Fits Into And That Can Affect The Float Level. A Good Tip For Anybody To Know Is: To Install A In-line FILTER On to The Fuel Line, It Keeps A Lot Of Fine Dirt Out Of The Carburetor.
Great video, I love this stuff but make sure to disconnect the wire from the spark plug before working on the engine, happy engining?
good safety tip
For the first half of any project problems come faster that they get solved, and you arrive at the point of lowest morale. The second half of the project problems are solved faster than finding them and at last.. it's all fixed!
Jeff can you do a tour of your mower junk yard?
Thanks great info.
Projects take twice as much as when my dog's around but they're worth it!
What's your opinion on Briggs vs. Tecumseh (even though not made anymore).
Thanks
Briggs is best by far!
the proper way to check an engine is to check air, fuel, and spark. check compression using a leakdown tester, check spark using a spark tester, and check fuel by force feeding it
BTW, I like to see a video on leaking crankshaft....
I've found 0.10 to provide a seemingly slightly better result on a magneto gap, that's what I gap mine to and always have a first pull start
Take me on work man!
Good Video
Thanks KB!
The 40 thumbs down were from old lawnmower engine's that couldn't be replaced
Hey I have a husqavarna leaf blower, it will idle fine as soon as increase the throttle it will not down and stall, unless I close the choke about 3/4 then it runs fine,
johnny Vee clean your carb. Main jet is probably clogged
Grenaded? That's what you call "Rapid unplanned disassembly"
Use a business card to set gape on coil
The dog 😂
nice video i have that same mower and engine setup where is the fuel filter location i could not locate it. thanks
it is a screen inside the tank. part of the tank.
less complicated is to remove all carburetor and never in that way. I don't know why this guy did that in that way but for me makes people think that process is more complicated and is not.
Esas son chambonadas, lo mejor es desarmar el carburador y darle una buena limpieza a todo el motor
Low oil, filthy air filter, not a sign of good maintenance. The oily air filter might be a sign of a dirty breather valve. Hope you didn't pay too much for this mower. What else is wrong?
When I rebuilt my Briggs and Stratton carb a bright silver u shape piece of metal dropped to the floor. Where did it come from and would it be the cause of excess gas leak?
I know the part you are talking about. Usually it is fixed inside the carburetor. If it came loose it may have been preventing the float from closing. Reassemble without the piece and try it out. The carb should run ok without it.
i try everything you did and my didn't come back to life. BTW how do u know if the coil working or not?
The Brigs book calls for 0.10 ,,not 0.12
May be it must be 0.012...
looks like the same shroud you took off
Did you take it apart again and clean all the dirt of
no
Trying to see why mine stopped running a damaged the plastic part connected to the auto choke...can I just purchase that part? Or new carburetor?
I am not sure, here is the website I use to lookup parts diagrams
shop.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/repair-parts
found it! thanks $14 bucks prime shipping, ill take it
I like to add a fuel filter to all my engines
me too! good tip
@@JeffsLittleEngineService Hey Jeff can you really helped me out with my Toro lawnmower I completely rebuilt the whole thing and adjusted it correctly it runs like a top now man ✌🏽
Why don't you clean everything as you go?
because I work on 25 lawnmowers a day!
Not the best instructor, Even if you are working on your own mower you should remove the layer of dirt first. Even if equipment is dirty when it is handed to you it should be clean when you hand it back. Air cooled equipment requires it fans and cooling fins to be clean not coated with a layer of dry insulation. all moving parts require to be clean and lubricated including springs and cables. There is no excuse in any workshop for putting dirty gritty dry threads into the holes they came out of without first cleaning them. Ethanol is the enemy of the carburettor that is why modern cars all have enclosed computer controlled injection systems, its not rocket science that ethanol will attract water from the air around it.
Oil is the most important part because small engines tend not to have oil filters or oil pumps
they are splash systems, low oil means that there is a shortage of oil for the paddle to splash around. and any dust grit or other muck that falls in because the dip stick cap was not cleaned around before removal to check the level will not be filtered out and will turn the engine into a smoker well before its due time. Have fun with your equipment have pride in servicing it and repairing any faults. try to keep it in as good or better condition than it was when you got it.
good tips
I don't get it. I have a lawnmower with a 5hp B&S motor on it that isn't running. I have done all of this and it still won't start. New plug, checked for spark, carb cleaned, pull cord good. Am I missing something?
maybe it ran low on oil at some point and compression is low
It's got oil in it. it's not full but not low either. I was told by a friend tonight that it could be bad valves, bad head gasket, or both because he pulled the cord and said there is no compression at all.
Oh I got it running. I pulled the head off to see what else could be going wrong with it. I found a valve seat popped out. I tapped it back in and the mower started right up. It's holding for now but the engine is beginning to vibrate more so I think the valve seat is slipping out again. I know I have to change it out for a new one, I just wanted to test it to see if and how long it would hold.
"Today I'm going to show you al- *MAX*, today I'm going to sow you all..."
Chickens tried to warn you! But, did you listen? No...
Riveting it back together would be easier
do you have a variable asemley used for yard man m0wer for sale
sorry, I do not
MAN, I WOULDN'T LET YOU WORK ON MY MAILBOX. #1, GET A SMALL UPHOLSTERY STEAM CLEANER AND GET THE ENGINE S-P-O-T-L-E-S-S, BEFORE YOU TURN A SINGLE WRENCH. CONTINUE TO CLEAN AS YOU WORK YOUR WAY UNDER THE SHROUDS. #2NEVER START AN ENGINE WITH LOW/DIRTY OIL-EVER. ALL "AIR-COOLED" ENGINES ARE IN REALITY "OIL COOLED" ENGINES.#3 YOU MUST CLEAN ALL AIR WAYS THROUGH THE COOLING FINS, OR THE ENGINE WILL "HOT-SPOT". #4 ANTI-SEIZE EVERY STEEL SCREW AND BOLT GOING INTO ALUMINUM-ALWAYS.
lol! good tips
ALL GOOG MATE ............... but ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, the ...................WD-40 . THAT SHIT IS JUST LIKE WATER