I will hopefully I’ll get some motors w the season coming to an end. I’m also going to be posting the proper ways to winterize inboard motors. So stay tuned for that. I’ll have a vid for every version as I do about 200 winterizations and shrink wrapping at the marina I work at once the winter rolls around
got my hands on a 25 e 1999 for free, looks like the same engine more or less. going to have to watch this vid while i work on it. thank you for posting this!
Hahah I’ve done a lot of these carbs and really if you just understand the basics of carbs you can pretty much take apart any of them. Also low key think I have photographic memory when it comes to mechanics which I feel a lot of mechanics have when your working on them everyday as I do work at a marina
just bought my 1st Merc..hence my comment on your excellent utube channel, 25 hp short shaft 2T vintage 1988 runs awesome and was well taken care of, pees quite well...Looking forward to 1st voyage with my AVON Rib rated for 25 hp...I suspect my little boat will Fly on the colorado river.
That’s awesome thank you so much for commenting and absolutely you should move quite well with that setup. May just have to adjust pitch size on your prop for whatever works best for your boat but time will tell lol
Have the same motor , rebuilt my carb thanks to your video appreciate it man , still having the same issue as I had previous , when I pump the bulb lots of gas shoots out the butterfly flap, scratching my head could use some help.
I’m assuming you did everything correctly rebuilding it with a fresh kit and made sure everything was clean before reinstalling. With these motors I’ve noticed you can’t overprime them like some other outboards. Once you see that fuel filter housing filled all the way up you just wanna squeeze the primer ball till it just feels like it’s getting hard. I’ve noticed with everyone I’ve ever done that if you overprime it it will one hundred percent push by the needle and have that issue your taking about. What we don’t want happening is for it to be overflowing when the engine is actually running or possibly the fact that either the needle or seat is bad. So try this for me prime it up till the fuel filter housing is filled and just till you start feeling the ball get hard. Fire up the engine and see if it starts over flooding dramatically. They are old 2 strokes so very possibly you may see a tiny bit of gas chillen in the carb after running. We just don’t want it to be dumping and pouring out
@@outboardfinatic hey man! Thank you for replying I appreciate it! Tried what you asked to no avail , and it still had me pulling my hair out with fuel dumping out of carb , sold the whole boat with motor to my buddy for 500 bucks , he’s got more patience than me. Using the money to work on my other boat Johnson 35 it has milky oil near the propeller, thinking it needs lower unit seal done?
Hey sorry to hear that. They can be funny sometimes. But kinda hard for me to point you in the right direction without seeing it etc. but yea if you got lily gear lube one it could be the washers gaskets for the drains if ones ruptured. If it wasn’t that then yes. Could either be drive shaft seal, prop shaft seals and or shift shaft seal. Best way to tell is by doing a pressure test to the lower unit to about 8-10 lbs of pressure and use soapy water and see where the air bubbles are coming from and that’ll tell you which seal is bad. If it’s me I’m just changing out all of the seals while your already at it
I just acquired the same without e start. it has crazy spark from lower cylinder but top is dead ! Had a spare coil so swapped it out but will need to dig further didn't solve issue.
well I tested to see if it was trigger or cdi I switched wires to coil & confirmed, I'm waiting for a new cdi ! taking a chance with amazon supplier will see how reliable?!
Awesome video, and thanks for posting it (found myself vibing and noddin to the beat as well while I attentively learned and watched you doing the repair/rebuild)!😁 Question, where or what is the carburetor's Fast Idle Wire that goes under that flywheel cover attached to??
Located under the flywheel on the trigger. There’s like a square slot if you look at the motor as if you’re looking straight at the carb. The idle wire will have a 90 degree on one end. You want that facing up once you slide it through. Hope this helps
Absolutely! Thanks so much for your speedy response/feedback! One mystery down, 4 or 5 more puzzling confusions to go!😂 🤦🏾♂️ lol!! (I’m making a video to send to you to hopefully explain my dilemma).
How do you synchronize in time an engine like this? Have a 1986 mercury 20 horse outboard grill similar to this one I haven’t found much on timing and synchronization of these engines.
the second gasket you put on at 16:12, is this required? most diagrams im seeing for a 1994 do not use this but everything else about this carb is the same
Yes it is necessary for it to run correctly. Depending on vintage of the motor they’ll have different setups for the fuel pump. One like this and others use a plastic piece in between the 2 pieces and has a spring on it
Question, I have the same motor but I can not get it to shift into forward I got into the lower unit everything seems to be in good shape....when I shift into forward it wants to go but I just hear a gear trying to get into the forward gear.. I have read that a new prop and bushing will solve any ideas thank you
I have a 1985 two-stroke 18 hp outboard that looks very very similar to that one. I’m having problems with the car flooding. It’s getting way too much gas and I can only get the engine to start. If I have it at full throttle I cannot get it to start in neutral do you have any suggestions of what I should do I have tried messing with the air fuel mixture screw, and it doesn’t really do anything because it’s really hard to do because I can’t get the motor to title at all
Or it could be the enricher on the side of the carb. If that ball isn’t seating or your gaskets split or what not then excess gas will leak by and flood you
Hey boss man, great video! My carburetor leaks out of the choke plunger weep hole. (If thats what its called) The motor runs good, but just makes a mess every time I open and close the choke. Any helpful hints or do you have a carburetor video I can watch. Thanks
That’s the built on fuel pump. Your talking about the little hole located on the left side of the carb correct? My thoughts were to be take the carb apart replace the gaskets w a fresh kit. My only other thought would be the enrichener. When you take it apart check and see if there is a check ball in there. It’s a really tiny metal sphere. Hope this helps
But yes I do have carb rebuilds of the same carbs from different motors. It is the exact same tho they all use the same carbs so just go check out any of my vids. Most of them have me rebuilding them
Opened the carb up. The diaphragm for the fuel pump was junk. I could see light through it. Fresh kit it is! Thanks for the help and listing the kit number also.
Hi, I have this engine on my sailboat since yesterday. I need the engine to be fixed straight in the middle. I have no steering cable. Is there a way to lock it in the middle? My old outboard had a hole at the backside where I could screw in a nut to lock it in the middle.
I can’t remember exactly on this model if they have one honestly. Cus I no longer have this motor in my possession so I can’t go look for ya. I know for sure it dosent have the levers in the front like the newer ones. If there is one. Then only thing i can think of that they would do is put a screw right in the pivoting point and screw it in till it’s tight but I’m really not sure if there is one or not
@@LanceEnglot it should have one. Usually they are right on the top of the water jacket. Should be just 2 bolts and then it’s really easy to replace. Just pull the thermostat out and it’ll more than likely have like a rubber grommet on it. Should be able to reuse it unless it torn. And believe they also just get a mounting gasket. Probs the easiest thermostats to do
Great video dude! I got one of these free from a family friend, hadn't run in decades. I rebuilt carb, pump, impeller and new plugs, filter, fuel lines. It runs great but man is it hard to start, will take 6-8 pulls most times to start especially when cold or if it sat for more than 10 minutes. Can be a bit of a safety issue when I'm trying to get back under power after a drift or when launching from the bank. Compression is roughly 110 both cylinders. Any tips for where to start? Cheers man!
And you’re doing the proper starting technique for these motors. Twist the knob and pump it 2 or 3 times when it’s cold the try starting it. I also tend to take the cowling off and manual open the carb butterfly and that tends to help a decent some when trying to start on cold days
@@outboardfinatic After a lot of tinkering and swapping the gas line and tank, I ended up getting it running a lot better...but I did have to back out my main jet much more than the starting setting -- it's out about 3.5 turns now from fully threaded. I don't know if that suggests something wrong with my carb or motor.
Hello, how are you, your videos are very good, now you have a new subscriber, I ask you, can you make a video about this engine but changing the propeller gear seals? because I have the same engine and I don't know how to do it, greetings from Argentina
I sure can I just only do that kind of stuff if the motor actually needs it. But for future vids I’ll keep it in mind and do it. I have a certain format of vids im doing but im be posting other boat and motor related things in the futue
Miniature labradoodle. He was shaven for this photo tho due to really bad knots. But his hair is all grown back now. The mom was a miniature labradoodle and the dad was a poodle. His names mowgli
Having a problem with my tiller shifting linkage. It seems to have slipped on the controller and I cant get it into neutral to start this 88 merc 25hp. The shifter controller is out of adjustment and I cant get it back it needs to be.
On these motors there’s many issues with the tiller handles internally. Right at the base id the tiller handle where it mounts to the outboard there’s 3 screws. Remove the cap and you’ll see your cables wrapped around this plastic spindle. Well those plastic spindles have slots in them and over time they tend to wear through it and the cables are just free hanging in there. You’ll have to look at this to see if this is your issue. Otherwise you’ll just have to remove the shifter pin at the powerhead and manual shift it back down to neutral in order to even try and start it
I’ve got a Mariner with the same style tiller. I’ve looked all over google and different websites and still can’t find the year of my motor. The SN is 0C257940. I was wondering after I take all three screws out from the bracket that mounts the handle to the motor, how do I take the handle apart from there?
@@Gator291it can get pretty in-depth. I’ve done a decent amount but never recorded me doing it. If you wanna remove the whole tiller. You have to remover those three screws and get them off the drum in the handle. Or you can take the cables off the drum on the pwerhead then you can slide the cables out as well you’ll have to disconnect the kill switch in the handle as well as a starting switch if you got one. Give me a sec I’m sure I can figure out the year for ya. But otherwise on the tiller handle stuff that’s the best I can do explaining it over text. When you go to reassemble it gets pretty tricky so I’ll try and make a vid soon so it’s easier for ya
@@outboardfinatic I appreciate it. Taking it apart from the power head, removing all the wires trying to further disassemble it, and putting it back on after I couldn’t figure it out was pretty easy. I feel like I’m supposed to remove the bigger piece of rubber to access a screw, but there’s just absolutely no way I could feel like I could do it without breaking something. I’ve looked into converting the power head shifter to the tiller handle style shifter and seen that it could be pretty costly. I’ve yet to find the exact year still because I last seen it was a 90’s model then further looking at pictures it also said an 80’s model. It’s confusing
That’s kinda up to you. I personally would say no just because they are so expensive. Now they do have their perks as the sparks concentrated significantly in the center electrode so they say starting is easier and fouling dosent happen as much. But personally I’m not spending 20 bucks a piece for spark plugs. I’d run the normal spark plugs but again it’s just a personal choice. And tbh I’ll have to look but I don’t know if this motor has an option for iridium plugs but I could certainly be wrong I’ll look into it and see which part number they run
@outboardfinatic Thanks a lot for taking the time for such a detailed answer! Well, this motor is kind of a robust yet old "lady", so i'd rather offer it the best possible care...
Hi there I get most of my parts from the boat dealer that I work for. A really good website that has parts and shows diagrams and what not is boats.net. When you look at your parts that you need as long as it has a green check mark next to it it means they have it in stock. No check mark means they don’t have it and if you order it it’ll take forever to get it. So just make sure there’s a green check mark next to it
When you spin the knob it advances the timing on the engine. So where it’s zip tied that’s connected to tht idle wire. When you spin it it pulls out and underneath the flywheel it pulls the trigger so spark happens sooner. Just helps the engine fire up cus there’s no choke. Just a fuel enrichener
Not gonna lie to you I’ve never heard of a 32 hp outboard before. I’m assuming mercury 30 hp but what do you have a 2 stroke or 4 stroke? Cus I’m editing a video rn on a Mercury 30 efi 4 stroke
@@outboardfinatic in my engine the rattling noise problem was found from piston ring it make skirt piston shake impact cylinder liner and i change piston ring rattling noise disappear
I don’t but you can use boats.net Use your serial numbers and you’ll be able to find every part you need with part numbers and a lot of the stuff you can order straight from them. I get most of my parts from the dealership I work at so it’s a bit different for the everyday customer But if it were me I’d be using boats.net
I wear em at work so I always have a gator around my neck but for the vids I put it on just to cover my identity till I feel comfortable showing myself
I did I just didn’t show me doing it in the video. In the beginning I didn’t because didn’t know if this motor was gonna be junk or not so wanted to just do compression and spark before I even think about cleaning a motor
@@sammyrothrock6981I know for sure it’s a bigger idle speed jet. Says on them the size of them. Believe 25 run a .076 and I know 15hps run a .066 jet but honestly not 100 percent sure if there was really anything else significantly different between the 2 motors
@@outboardfinatic I have a 9.9 mercury and had a 15 same vintage they used the same base block only carb is different same bore and stroke. I believe the 20hp and 25hp are the same block also not sure about 30hp?
I rebuilt the exact same outboard motor.. Very reliable engine 👍🏻👍🏻
Dude, i really enjoy your vids. Keep them coming.. 👍
I will hopefully I’ll get some motors w the season coming to an end. I’m also going to be posting the proper ways to winterize inboard motors. So stay tuned for that. I’ll have a vid for every version as I do about 200 winterizations and shrink wrapping at the marina I work at once the winter rolls around
Look forward to the content Sir..👍
got my hands on a 25 e 1999 for free, looks like the same engine more or less. going to have to watch this vid while i work on it.
thank you for posting this!
@@foxmulder3748 absolutely that’s awesome and sounds exciting. If you have any qs lmk i can hook uou up
Men, you are Genius how you do to remember where each little part goes!!
Hahah I’ve done a lot of these carbs and really if you just understand the basics of carbs you can pretty much take apart any of them. Also low key think I have photographic memory when it comes to mechanics which I feel a lot of mechanics have when your working on them everyday as I do work at a marina
just bought my 1st Merc..hence my comment on your excellent utube channel, 25 hp short shaft 2T vintage 1988 runs awesome and was well taken care of, pees quite well...Looking forward to 1st voyage with my AVON Rib rated for 25 hp...I suspect my little boat will Fly on the colorado river.
That’s awesome thank you so much for commenting and absolutely you should move quite well with that setup. May just have to adjust pitch size on your prop for whatever works best for your boat but time will tell lol
Great video. You're going to laugh at me but I don't care. LOL. I used to use KY jelly on the water pump fins and all the o-rings. It works great.
Hahahah great advice never thought of that. I just always use a very small amount of the mercury 2-4-c grease
Have the same motor , rebuilt my carb thanks to your video appreciate it man , still having the same issue as I had previous , when I pump the bulb lots of gas shoots out the butterfly flap, scratching my head could use some help.
I’m assuming you did everything correctly rebuilding it with a fresh kit and made sure everything was clean before reinstalling. With these motors I’ve noticed you can’t overprime them like some other outboards. Once you see that fuel filter housing filled all the way up you just wanna squeeze the primer ball till it just feels like it’s getting hard. I’ve noticed with everyone I’ve ever done that if you overprime it it will one hundred percent push by the needle and have that issue your taking about. What we don’t want happening is for it to be overflowing when the engine is actually running or possibly the fact that either the needle or seat is bad. So try this for me prime it up till the fuel filter housing is filled and just till you start feeling the ball get hard. Fire up the engine and see if it starts over flooding dramatically. They are old 2 strokes so very possibly you may see a tiny bit of gas chillen in the carb after running. We just don’t want it to be dumping and pouring out
@@outboardfinatic hey man! Thank you for replying I appreciate it! Tried what you asked to no avail , and it still had me pulling my hair out with fuel dumping out of carb , sold the whole boat with motor to my buddy for 500 bucks , he’s got more patience than me. Using the money to work on my other boat Johnson 35 it has milky oil near the propeller, thinking it needs lower unit seal done?
Hey sorry to hear that. They can be funny sometimes. But kinda hard for me to point you in the right direction without seeing it etc. but yea if you got lily gear lube one it could be the washers gaskets for the drains if ones ruptured. If it wasn’t that then yes. Could either be drive shaft seal, prop shaft seals and or shift shaft seal. Best way to tell is by doing a pressure test to the lower unit to about 8-10 lbs of pressure and use soapy water and see where the air bubbles are coming from and that’ll tell you which seal is bad. If it’s me I’m just changing out all of the seals while your already at it
great video I learned everything I need to maintain my 25 hp, thank you
That’s awesome to hear glad the video helped and appreciate the follow up comment! Have a great boating season
I just acquired the same without e start. it has crazy spark from lower cylinder but top is dead ! Had a spare coil so swapped it out but will need to dig further didn't solve issue.
well I tested to see if it was trigger or cdi I switched wires to coil & confirmed, I'm waiting for a new cdi ! taking a chance with amazon supplier will see how reliable?!
new cdi installed motor running !
Nice video bro thank you I celan my carbs and getting worse 🥴🥴
Awesome video, and thanks for posting it (found myself vibing and noddin to the beat as well while I attentively learned and watched you doing the repair/rebuild)!😁 Question, where or what is the carburetor's Fast Idle Wire that goes under that flywheel cover attached to??
Located under the flywheel on the trigger. There’s like a square slot if you look at the motor as if you’re looking straight at the carb. The idle wire will have a 90 degree on one end. You want that facing up once you slide it through. Hope this helps
Absolutely! Thanks so much for your speedy response/feedback!
One mystery down, 4 or 5 more puzzling confusions to go!😂 🤦🏾♂️ lol!!
(I’m making a video to send to you to hopefully explain my dilemma).
How do you synchronize in time an engine like this? Have a 1986 mercury 20 horse outboard grill similar to this one I haven’t found much on timing and synchronization of these engines.
the second gasket you put on at 16:12, is this required? most diagrams im seeing for a 1994 do not use this but everything else about this carb is the same
Yes it is necessary for it to run correctly. Depending on vintage of the motor they’ll have different setups for the fuel pump. One like this and others use a plastic piece in between the 2 pieces and has a spring on it
Question, I have the same motor but I can not get it to shift into forward I got into the lower unit everything seems to be in good shape....when I shift into forward it wants to go but I just hear a gear trying to get into the forward gear.. I have read that a new prop and bushing will solve any ideas thank you
Merci de me dire la référence et les mesures du Turbine pompe a eau que vous avez changé.
Merci pour votre vidéo
Thank you!!
Dies this thing have a shift? I believe i have the same motor i got with an old boat and there is no writing on the throttle handle.
Shifting is done in the handle. Unless for some reason you have a side shifter. But most if not all shift in the handle
I have a 1985 two-stroke 18 hp outboard that looks very very similar to that one. I’m having problems with the car flooding. It’s getting way too much gas and I can only get the engine to start. If I have it at full throttle I cannot get it to start in neutral do you have any suggestions of what I should do I have tried messing with the air fuel mixture screw, and it doesn’t really do anything because it’s really hard to do because I can’t get the motor to title at all
Your needle isn’t seating or maybe a cracked float in the carb and is full of gas and not floating correctly would be my first 2 guesses
Or it could be the enricher on the side of the carb. If that ball isn’t seating or your gaskets split or what not then excess gas will leak by and flood you
Good work!
Hey boss man, great video! My carburetor leaks out of the choke plunger weep hole. (If thats what its called) The motor runs good, but just makes a mess every time I open and close the choke. Any helpful hints or do you have a carburetor video I can watch. Thanks
That’s the built on fuel pump. Your talking about the little hole located on the left side of the carb correct? My thoughts were to be take the carb apart replace the gaskets w a fresh kit. My only other thought would be the enrichener. When you take it apart check and see if there is a check ball in there. It’s a really tiny metal sphere. Hope this helps
But yes I do have carb rebuilds of the same carbs from different motors. It is the exact same tho they all use the same carbs so just go check out any of my vids. Most of them have me rebuilding them
Opened the carb up. The diaphragm for the fuel pump was junk. I could see light through it. Fresh kit it is! Thanks for the help and listing the kit number also.
Hi, I have this engine on my sailboat since yesterday. I need the engine to be fixed straight in the middle. I have no steering cable.
Is there a way to lock it in the middle? My old outboard had a hole at the backside where I could screw in a nut to lock it in the middle.
I can’t remember exactly on this model if they have one honestly. Cus I no longer have this motor in my possession so I can’t go look for ya. I know for sure it dosent have the levers in the front like the newer ones. If there is one. Then only thing i can think of that they would do is put a screw right in the pivoting point and screw it in till it’s tight but I’m really not sure if there is one or not
I’m looking to see if the 25xd 2 stroke has a thermostat and how to replace , having a heating problem at high speed
@@LanceEnglot it should have one. Usually they are right on the top of the water jacket. Should be just 2 bolts and then it’s really easy to replace. Just pull the thermostat out and it’ll more than likely have like a rubber grommet on it. Should be able to reuse it unless it torn. And believe they also just get a mounting gasket. Probs the easiest thermostats to do
@@outboardfinatic thank you , as far as I can tell mine is a late 80’s motor , I’ll take a look thank you for your reply !!
Great video dude! I got one of these free from a family friend, hadn't run in decades. I rebuilt carb, pump, impeller and new plugs, filter, fuel lines. It runs great but man is it hard to start, will take 6-8 pulls most times to start especially when cold or if it sat for more than 10 minutes. Can be a bit of a safety issue when I'm trying to get back under power after a drift or when launching from the bank. Compression is roughly 110 both cylinders. Any tips for where to start? Cheers man!
And you’re doing the proper starting technique for these motors. Twist the knob and pump it 2 or 3 times when it’s cold the try starting it. I also tend to take the cowling off and manual open the carb butterfly and that tends to help a decent some when trying to start on cold days
@@outboardfinatic After a lot of tinkering and swapping the gas line and tank, I ended up getting it running a lot better...but I did have to back out my main jet much more than the starting setting -- it's out about 3.5 turns now from fully threaded. I don't know if that suggests something wrong with my carb or motor.
Cool dog
Hello, how are you, your videos are very good, now you have a new subscriber, I ask you, can you make a video about this engine but changing the propeller gear seals? because I have the same engine and I don't know how to do it, greetings from Argentina
I sure can I just only do that kind of stuff if the motor actually needs it. But for future vids I’ll keep it in mind and do it. I have a certain format of vids im doing but im be posting other boat and motor related things in the futue
What does the metal rod on the zip tied piece of the choke assembly go to?
To the trigger. I answered the qs for the other person who commented that. Check that comment out
I had one of those for along time was an excellent outboard..... Is that a Phantom Poodle ya have there ??
Miniature labradoodle. He was shaven for this photo tho due to really bad knots. But his hair is all grown back now. The mom was a miniature labradoodle and the dad was a poodle. His names mowgli
@@outboardfinatic , 👍👍............
I need help know what to get for my shallow water tilt
Like the tilt pin? Or what do you mean
Where did you get your spark tester?
From my vendor from work. I’m not sure how you get one maybe Amazon?
Having a problem with my tiller shifting linkage. It seems to have slipped on the controller and I cant get it into neutral to start this 88 merc 25hp. The shifter controller is out of adjustment and I cant get it back it needs to be.
On these motors there’s many issues with the tiller handles internally. Right at the base id the tiller handle where it mounts to the outboard there’s 3 screws. Remove the cap and you’ll see your cables wrapped around this plastic spindle. Well those plastic spindles have slots in them and over time they tend to wear through it and the cables are just free hanging in there. You’ll have to look at this to see if this is your issue. Otherwise you’ll just have to remove the shifter pin at the powerhead and manual shift it back down to neutral in order to even try and start it
Thank you man youre the best
I’ve got a Mariner with the same style tiller. I’ve looked all over google and different websites and still can’t find the year of my motor. The SN is 0C257940. I was wondering after I take all three screws out from the bracket that mounts the handle to the motor, how do I take the handle apart from there?
@@Gator291it can get pretty in-depth. I’ve done a decent amount but never recorded me doing it. If you wanna remove the whole tiller. You have to remover those three screws and get them off the drum in the handle. Or you can take the cables off the drum on the pwerhead then you can slide the cables out as well you’ll have to disconnect the kill switch in the handle as well as a starting switch if you got one. Give me a sec I’m sure I can figure out the year for ya. But otherwise on the tiller handle stuff that’s the best I can do explaining it over text. When you go to reassemble it gets pretty tricky so I’ll try and make a vid soon so it’s easier for ya
@@outboardfinatic I appreciate it. Taking it apart from the power head, removing all the wires trying to further disassemble it, and putting it back on after I couldn’t figure it out was pretty easy. I feel like I’m supposed to remove the bigger piece of rubber to access a screw, but there’s just absolutely no way I could feel like I could do it without breaking something. I’ve looked into converting the power head shifter to the tiller handle style shifter and seen that it could be pretty costly. I’ve yet to find the exact year still because I last seen it was a 90’s model then further looking at pictures it also said an 80’s model. It’s confusing
Does it make sense to use iridium spark plugs on this engine?
That’s kinda up to you. I personally would say no just because they are so expensive. Now they do have their perks as the sparks concentrated significantly in the center electrode so they say starting is easier and fouling dosent happen as much. But personally I’m not spending 20 bucks a piece for spark plugs. I’d run the normal spark plugs but again it’s just a personal choice. And tbh I’ll have to look but I don’t know if this motor has an option for iridium plugs but I could certainly be wrong I’ll look into it and see which part number they run
@outboardfinatic Thanks a lot for taking the time for such a detailed answer! Well, this motor is kind of a robust yet old "lady", so i'd rather offer it the best possible care...
Where do you recommend getting all your parts? I have a 1980 mercury 25hp.
Hi there I get most of my parts from the boat dealer that I work for. A really good website that has parts and shows diagrams and what not is boats.net. When you look at your parts that you need as long as it has a green check mark next to it it means they have it in stock. No check mark means they don’t have it and if you order it it’ll take forever to get it. So just make sure there’s a green check mark next to it
what is the brand and model of your spark plug tester the one where you can actually see the spark?
I’d have to get back to ya. I got it through a vendor through the shop I work at
will do much appreciated
@@outboardfinatic
Steven’s instrument company S-48 Spark checker
Wondering if a 40 hp starter will fit a 20 hp motor
Mercury? Or are you trying to put it on a mariner
Give me the serial for your 40 I’ll checj
The carb part that was zip tied, What does it do?
When you spin the knob it advances the timing on the engine. So where it’s zip tied that’s connected to tht idle wire. When you spin it it pulls out and underneath the flywheel it pulls the trigger so spark happens sooner. Just helps the engine fire up cus there’s no choke. Just a fuel enrichener
@@outboardfinatic Thanks a lot for your reply!!
Good video what’s the original cdi code please
Like you mean what’s the CDI part number?
Yes
I'm from Argentina i have Mercury 32 hp don't find ony thing for it
Not gonna lie to you I’ve never heard of a 32 hp outboard before. I’m assuming mercury 30 hp but what do you have a 2 stroke or 4 stroke? Cus I’m editing a video rn on a Mercury 30 efi 4 stroke
what did rattling noise?
Lower cowling was busted and so was the top half of the cowling so it was rattling pretty good with nothing securing it down
@@outboardfinatic in my engine the rattling noise problem was found from piston ring
it make skirt piston shake impact cylinder liner
and i change piston ring rattling noise disappear
You have a website for parts i can find for this motor?
I have a linkage pice that broke off and I'm trying to find a new one
Go to Mercury Parts catalog and put your serial number in
I don’t but you can use boats.net Use your serial numbers and you’ll be able to find every part you need with part numbers and a lot of the stuff you can order straight from them. I get most of my parts from the dealership I work at so it’s a bit different for the everyday customer
But if it were me I’d be using boats.net
whats the idea of the mask
I wear em at work so I always have a gator around my neck but for the vids I put it on just to cover my identity till I feel comfortable showing myself
Do you happen to knownthe weight of this motor?
I don’t recall but I would guess like 125-130 lbs
shop vac ? suck up mouse crap and old gaskets
I did I just didn’t show me doing it in the video. In the beginning I didn’t because didn’t know if this motor was gonna be junk or not so wanted to just do compression and spark before I even think about cleaning a motor
get rid of the annoying music
get rid of the stupid dramatic music so annoying
I have a 20hp 1988 I wonder if I had a 25 hp carb if it put out 25?
Will probs work don’t know if they really change anything internally most likely just carb for something like that
@@outboardfinatic I was thinking maybe it's just a bigger jet? Will have to analyze the 25 carb and do some measurements
@@outboardfinatic I bought a 20 1988 for only 300.00 and it's a low hours creampuff and cosmetically perfect
@@sammyrothrock6981I know for sure it’s a bigger idle speed jet. Says on them the size of them. Believe 25 run a .076 and I know 15hps run a .066 jet but honestly not 100 percent sure if there was really anything else significantly different between the 2 motors
@@outboardfinatic I have a 9.9 mercury and had a 15 same vintage they used the same base block only carb is different same bore and stroke. I believe the 20hp and 25hp are the same block also not sure about 30hp?
Hey how can I message you
Through here
How do you remove the drive shaft to replace the seals on this motor?