A kit is available on parts geek that comes with timing belt, water pump, tensioner pre-pinned, tension pulley and idle pulley, which is what was installed in this video.
2007 Highlander we just did all of that work when I open the hood it looked like a black turd it was so leaking everywhere after changing valve cover gaskets all the sand seals pump etc etcetera belt spark plugs that were never changed at 3 1 8 thousand Miles and spark plugs burn down into the ceramic they were so old and that darn car runs and drives like brand new again thumbs up the Toyota
Timing belt should be changed at 90,000 miles and timing chains outside 140 they say 160 but I say 140 and don't forget this is an opportunity to pull that intake manifold off change those back three spark plugs that probably never got changed and replaced all the valve cover gaskets while you're in that deep it's really quite simple you want to change your thermostat which is up underneath all that and it's easy to get out when you have the intake manifold off
And for God's sake the injectors are right there easy to get at 4 bolts that's pop those out run some brake clean through them with a 12-volt battery or a little 9 volt battery to open the valve and clean them out and the car will run like brand new again
On the rear bank of cylinders for piston 1,3, and 5, while the cam pulley is aligned with the mark on the rear timing belt cover, on one of the three cylinders the cam lobe is pressing on ether the intake or exhaust valve. But because the cam lobe is pressing on a valve it also means the piston is not close to the valve. I first freaked out because no one had mentioned that on the rear bank of cylinders one of the cam lobes was pressing on a valve. However, there was no risk of damage to the valves because some tolerance exists in case of such slipping of the cam off the valve. Does that make any sense? It’s ok if the cam slips off the lobe, just make sure the cam did not rotate much and re-align the marks of the cam pulley with mark on the back cover. You should be able to rotate the cam pulley by hand to re-align the marks. Hope this helps. Thank you for watching and please consider subscribing. Have a good day
@@aptechknowledge sorry for being a newbie but you initially got worried that there would be a piston to valve contact if it slips? Was that it or were you afraid that the you might drop a valve if it move? One of the videos I saw adviced that when you remove the cams that you go 60 degree back from TDC I guess to avoid that P2V risk which I think you mentioned in your video. Thanks for taking the time responding to my comment. Much appreciated
Think about it though; if the cam comes off the load on the valves that means the valves are closing right? That would actually reduce the possibility of a P2V issue because the valves are closed. Just be careful when you do the job that when you're done and ready to put the new belt back on, that all the marks align. You got this!
It’s quite alright my friend. It wasn’t too bad; just had to take my time and pay attention to detail. Turned out really good though; super happy with it. You have a fantastic 4th of July and a great weekend.
@@aptechknowledge thank you for showing us the work you do! I will definitely subscribe and watch for other projects you have! Happy 4th of July to you as well my friend, enjoy!
A kit is available on parts geek that comes with timing belt, water pump, tensioner pre-pinned, tension pulley and idle pulley, which is what was installed in this video.
The amazing thing about Toyota is 1MZ or 3MZ they are pretty much the same process. Love Toyota.
2007 Highlander we just did all of that work when I open the hood it looked like a black turd it was so leaking everywhere after changing valve cover gaskets all the sand seals pump etc etcetera belt spark plugs that were never changed at 3 1 8 thousand Miles and spark plugs burn down into the ceramic they were so old and that darn car runs and drives like brand new again thumbs up the Toyota
I love it. Good info
The studs going through the water pump that hold the engine mount are also size 8x1.25 and are also torqued to 168in/lb
Timing belt should be changed at 90,000 miles and timing chains outside 140 they say 160 but I say 140 and don't forget this is an opportunity to pull that intake manifold off change those back three spark plugs that probably never got changed and replaced all the valve cover gaskets while you're in that deep it's really quite simple you want to change your thermostat which is up underneath all that and it's easy to get out when you have the intake manifold off
And for God's sake the injectors are right there easy to get at 4 bolts that's pop those out run some brake clean through them with a 12-volt battery or a little 9 volt battery to open the valve and clean them out and the car will run like brand new again
Thank you. Was planning on doing a valve adjustment job shortly and make a video about it. Just as well take care of what you mentioned
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Can you explain further why you get scared if the cam gear 1 is “loaded” what are the risks did not quite catch it.
I think I know what you are talking about and where on the video. Allow some time please and I’ll get back to you this evening. I’m currently at work.
On the rear bank of cylinders for piston 1,3, and 5, while the cam pulley is aligned with the mark on the rear timing belt cover, on one of the three cylinders the cam lobe is pressing on ether the intake or exhaust valve. But because the cam lobe is pressing on a valve it also means the piston is not close to the valve. I first freaked out because no one had mentioned that on the rear bank of cylinders one of the cam lobes was pressing on a valve. However, there was no risk of damage to the valves because some tolerance exists in case of such slipping of the cam off the valve. Does that make any sense? It’s ok if the cam slips off the lobe, just make sure the cam did not rotate much and re-align the marks of the cam pulley with mark on the back cover. You should be able to rotate the cam pulley by hand to re-align the marks. Hope this helps. Thank you for watching and please consider subscribing. Have a good day
@@aptechknowledge sorry for being a newbie but you initially got worried that there would be a piston to valve contact if it slips? Was that it or were you afraid that the you might drop a valve if it move? One of the videos I saw adviced that when you remove the cams that you go 60 degree back from TDC I guess to avoid that P2V risk which I think you mentioned in your video. Thanks for taking the time responding to my comment. Much appreciated
My initial worry was the piston to valve contact when the cam rotated
Think about it though; if the cam comes off the load on the valves that means the valves are closing right? That would actually reduce the possibility of a P2V issue because the valves are closed. Just be careful when you do the job that when you're done and ready to put the new belt back on, that all the marks align. You got this!
😊👍🏿
Thank you. I do it with pleasure.
Please, if you haven’t already, consider subscribing. It will help in creating more videos to help my fellow men and women
I was about to do this job but forget it it’s way too much and too complicated for me, a simple UA-cam certified mechanic 😢
It’s quite alright my friend. It wasn’t too bad; just had to take my time and pay attention to detail. Turned out really good though; super happy with it. You have a fantastic 4th of July and a great weekend.
@@aptechknowledge thank you for showing us the work you do! I will definitely subscribe and watch for other projects you have! Happy 4th of July to you as well my friend, enjoy!