Outstanding. The explanations (nail vs. screw, fastener length) are perfect. 💯 I also love how you leave in the mistakes. Makes us mortals feel better. Kudos.
Thanks so much! I'm just trying to help people and answer the questions I think people will ask. And nobody is perfect, so why hide it! Mistakes happen, and if it's a big one, showing how to fix it can go a long way for others. Take care
I watched the entire original shed video series before moving on to this one, and I'm glad you're still firing shots at the OSB floor nay sayers. My father built a MASSIVE shed by hand at our family home in the very early 1990s. and it's construction is nearly identical to yours - including the 3/4" OSB floors. Nearly 35 years ago. And it's STILL standing. Keep on keepin' on...
Thank you! Haha yeah, they need to hear it. That's awesome, its amazing when proper construction techniques are used how long materials actually last. Thanks for sharing and take care!
Yeah lol I'm trying to have more fun with it. I enjoy his stuff and normally I am a fun guy but I was too tight to do it on camera. After everything that's happened lately I figured I'd just let it go and be me. Thanks for keeping tabs, take care!
I always learn a lot from you. But, I was so distracted by those blinding white legs! 😂 Don't feel bad, I live in the deep south and haven't gotten a tan in 3 years. Right there with ya! Can't wait to see the next video.
Haha thanks! Those are my winter chicken legs, first time they've been out all year after the cold let up. Don't worry, after building the shed I have a good tan now, hope you can get one too!
This was a great video! Good Job! I just have a couple questions about my shed. Can I use screws that is rated as the same sheer strength as nails such as the Simpson SDWS Framing Screws for all of the framing? What factors should decide whether I should include a beam on my shed? Can I use deck screws to connect my plywood sheets onto my floor?
Perfect! Thank you for your tutelage. I never knew the reason people used nails over screws. Since my aim isnt very good, I always use screws. Having so much space under your shed, are you worried about giving rodents a home? I live in a area where ground hogs, wood chucks, gophers, voles and moles. They all tend to build homes under my deck.
Thanks! I'm glad you learned something. The space is needed to keep the frame dry. Before you close it in with the sheets you could add some chicken wire to the bottom around the edge to keep them out. I also have plenty of little creatures that like to be under it but it isn't too hard to deal with...although that doesn't make them less annoying
I was about to write what a rookie until you pulled the tags off the boards...a little late in the video but the boards might still hold up. Great tutorial
Am I? lol Why do you say that? I'm just always curious because people say so many things I find it interesting to see what they see...because I just see me lol
Do you think if I was to just spread out the gravel or rocks that you used on the surface and build the other wood foundation you built on the last video right on top of it. Do you think this would last just as long or should I did a couple inches deep maybe 3 and fill it all in with the rocks. The spot I want to put the 8x10 at is pretty flat but grass gets pretty tall sometimes so I’m going to be excavating the 8x10 just like how you did in this video. (Just so your not confused I will be using your last vids foundation not this other floating one.) your doing a great job man really helping me with important info I was going to just dive in and try to do what I can but I want my shed and foundation to last !
No problem. The shed foundation from the last series will totally work and in that video, yes, I mentioned a couple inches of rock base. The same rock I used in this video would be perfect and help keep the grass down once you've excavated it out. It's all good. Good luck on your build and have fun!
I explained in the video as I went when I switched from nails to screws and back again. I even explained why. They both have their purposes. Maybe watch it a few more times to become acquainted with the process. I'm also working on plans that should hopefully be up next week that will make it super easy to follow along and will explain it all in great detail.
@@JessedoesDIY Screws are fine. In fact, neither were necessary since you also used joist hangers. I did the math on my build. A typical building screw can handle pressure treated wood and has a shear value of about 350 pounds. If you use 3 or 4 for the end of each joist, you have over 1,000 pounds of shear strength each. And, that does not even count the joist hangers.
If you lay them out as I showed, 16 3/4" and then back, then when you measure from the middle of one joist to the middle of the next joist that should be 16". The only one that won't be will be the first on the end and the second one. But the 2nd and 3rd will and so on.
No other video explains how many fasteners per inch we would need or things like that, it was much apretiated But can you explain how to choose the size of the wood itself?
Thanks, glad I could help! That's a bit tougher. You generally just want to go heavier than you think you'll need. This floor is heavy enough for anything that can be stored in the shed, including a small riding mower or snowblower.
In simple terms, the size of the wood is calculated based on the span (distance). There is a span guide/list that you can search for. You measure the length of the wood you need and based on that it tells you what size you need (2x4, 2x6, 2x8, etc.) Other variables it tells you is based on spacing (16" on center, 24", etc) and on wood type (fir, spruce, etc.) but you get the general idea. Search "Wood Beam Span Calculator".
Possibly. But my last shed 4 years ago never did because of the lack of sun I'm guessing. I've never had an issue anyways, but depending on where you live, you might.
12:18 If the structural screws have the same sheer rating as the regular screws, but they cost more...what is the purpose of using structural screws? or do u mean the structural screws have the same sheer strength as nails?
Pine is not rot resistant, that's why it is pressure treated. It would rot in no time otherwise. Oak would cost a fortune to build this out of, at least where I live. Cedar is a rot resistant option, but still costs twice as much as PT, again at least for me. Treated wood will almost always last longer than anything, depends on your local costs I guess
In addition to it not being anchored (freeze/thaw cycles), then you have that gap where all kinds of critters can go to make a nest - rabbits, groundhogs, moles, squirrels, chipmunks, feral cats, etc.
So put some lattice or chicken wire below the shed man. I can't recreate every single scenario because I don't have them. But if you know you do, then solve it. But the air gap needs to stay so it doesn't rot
What made you choose 2 x 8 instead of 2 x 4? Also why not use the cheaper brown stained pressure treated wood from home depot/lowes? Is it mainly for looks? Or is it more weather resistant?
The last floor I made was with 2x4 and I could use that because of the 4x4 underneath picking up the load. For this floor I wanted to show another option, but also something that is better for uneven ground. Because it's supporting the whole shed above I didn't want to go less than 2x8 to hold the load over time. And this is all brown pressure treated wood, but it isn't that cheap here. Pressure treated is very durable however
In a wind storm, what keeps these buildings from flying through the neighborhood? I live in the South where high winds happen often. I never see anything about how to secure these buildings in videos only how to build them.
The weight mostly. It's crazy heavy once built and even more so once filled with stuff. I have seen 150 km/h winds with no issues. But tornado and hurricane prone areas may need to set the floor in place, mark for posts, remove the floor frame and drill holes to drop posts into the ground with concrete. set the floor back into place and cut the tops of the posts off and then fasten the floor frame to the posts sticking up with brackets and fasteners. I can't show that here myself because I have a deep frost line to deal with.
The framing can take the weight, I just might use larger diameter blocks if you can find them to spread the load more and maybe add an extra in the center of the long sides
Exactly! I don't care HOW MUCH 'ventilation' is going through there. Wet ground from regular rains will retain moisture and vapor-release it right up against the OSB. Unless you are using treated boards and treated OSB (or polyethylene/plastic barrier on the ground), the lumber will eventually get mushy and spongy in 10-20 years and start to fail.
Nope. That dark underside is weather resistant from all the glue in OSB, and because it never gets wet because of the air gap, this is fine and will last decades.
For this it is, but I have decently hard ground. If you're unsure I'd always add another in between, overbuilt is better than underbuilt. I'm also only using this as a storage shed for things, nothing crazy heavy like a riding mower is going in here
I just bought a new metal shed and I have zero experience with laying down cement (cost, tools, experience) so I plan on building a floating foundation like this. Now on to my question for anyone... Q: I like that it allows airflow, but how do people handle animals making homes underneath? Currently I have a front deck and it is occupied by the UN of Animals (rabbits, skunk, sometimes snakes). I don't want that for the shed. I thought I could build an underground chicken wire wall around the inside of the frame before putting on the plywood, is that viable or any other suggestions?
That's awesome. I do have plans available for just the floor if you want. I'm not sure about the animals personally, but I have had many people comment on this and the last shed that chicken wire to just below ground is the most common option. I'm sure some lattice would also work. Good luck!
Common Jesse, don't do it !!! Just kidding :) I just all material to build shed based on your previous project :) Thanks a lot for inspiration. Cheers from Poland :)
Oh really!? lol sorry. Both sheds are great though so you'll be fine. To tell you a secret, I prefer the other shed anyways. The lean to design is just easier. Shhhh
Great if you live in the south...but if you live in a Freeze/Thaw (rainy in the spring and fall) zone, not so good. Over the years, without a proper cement footer, in the ground, on each corner, floating anchor systems can rise or sink, then you have a shed that is tilted, warped or sinking after 5, 10, 15+ years.
I live in a climate like that and my shead/ foundation is in great condition and it has been 15 years. Has not sinked, warped, or tilted yet. Everyone in the comments section thinks they are an expert.
@ adam - I'm not a "building" expert, never said I was, but what I *AM* an expert at is observation. Sister did a shed EXACTLY like this, no footer, no cement pylons as anchors, just placed it on the ground and in ten years there were gaps between the Camo/Tough bases and the lumber foundation structure and on another end it was pushed up from all the below freezing/freeze/thaw cycles. It was out of level. She had to shim it up the best she could to fill the gaps on the sunken parts. Showed this video to a contractor buddy and he was LHAO.
Man, I'm in central Canada, not the south. You want to talk weather extremes, I have them, -40 to +40°C and everything in between. But I haven't had an issue with other sheds I've built like this. However, no shed foundation is ever perfect, some are just more resilient than others. If I wanted to go down into the ground here I'd have to go 8-10' down because my frost line is 6' deep in the winter, that's just not possible here without big machines and a significant cost increase. This is a foundation that can be easily installed by most homeowners in most locations. I can't speak to what went wrong on your sisters
Our city building code states that you must pour a concrete slab with a 24' rat wall. Talk about having no wind circulating. Makes no sense. Why did you double up on the rim joist.....strenght?
That's an interesting one....Yes double rim joists to prevent sag. The weight of every rafter hangs off it, but each rafter only has to support itself so you double the rim.
Would have to be a really strong wind because it's heavier than you thing once built, and full of stuff. It's seen 150 km/h winds and nothing happened. At that point I'm sure that more things will be damaged than just the shed
@ CE - the problem with that is aesthetics - if that's important to you. It looks unsightly to have chicken wire or some wire mesh tacked onto the outside of the framework hanging down to the ground. Then, you have to use lawn pins to attach the chicken wire/mesh to the ground. If not, wild animals quickly learn they can push on the bottom of it and still get in there (I know from experience...uuugghhh)
A quick shot inserted after talking about the OSB is the reason why I’m not going to subscribe. That is Grindr activity. It isn’t good good for construction videos.
Now THIS is a shed building masterclass. I enjoy the TRUE cost breakdown and not some lie people tell because they are sponsored by big box.
Outstanding. The explanations (nail vs. screw, fastener length) are perfect. 💯
I also love how you leave in the mistakes. Makes us mortals feel better. Kudos.
Thanks so much! I'm just trying to help people and answer the questions I think people will ask.
And nobody is perfect, so why hide it! Mistakes happen, and if it's a big one, showing how to fix it can go a long way for others. Take care
I watched the entire original shed video series before moving on to this one, and I'm glad you're still firing shots at the OSB floor nay sayers. My father built a MASSIVE shed by hand at our family home in the very early 1990s. and it's construction is nearly identical to yours - including the 3/4" OSB floors.
Nearly 35 years ago. And it's STILL standing.
Keep on keepin' on...
Thank you! Haha yeah, they need to hear it. That's awesome, its amazing when proper construction techniques are used how long materials actually last.
Thanks for sharing and take care!
Thank You! Thank You! Thank You! Fantastic demo and explanation. Been looking for an instruction like this. Simply perfect!
Glad to see you channeled your inner Bourbon Moth Woodworking into your intro! Love you stuff brother. Cheers from NS :)
That's exactely what I was thinking, lol.
Yeah lol I'm trying to have more fun with it. I enjoy his stuff and normally I am a fun guy but I was too tight to do it on camera. After everything that's happened lately I figured I'd just let it go and be me. Thanks for keeping tabs, take care!
Haha thanks! It's more fun that way
III Uu
good job. I learned a lot. thanks
Great video, very well explained!
Thanks, glad you liked it!
You explain everything so good I understand the 16 on center now :) thank you
That's awesome! I'm glad I could help
I always learn a lot from you. But, I was so distracted by those blinding white legs! 😂 Don't feel bad, I live in the deep south and haven't gotten a tan in 3 years. Right there with ya! Can't wait to see the next video.
Haha thanks! Those are my winter chicken legs, first time they've been out all year after the cold let up. Don't worry, after building the shed I have a good tan now, hope you can get one too!
@@JessedoesDIY I live close to Pensacola Beach. Gonna try to go this weekend. Might scare some little children
This was a great video! Good Job! I just have a couple questions about my shed. Can I use screws that is rated as the same sheer strength as nails such as the Simpson SDWS Framing Screws for all of the framing? What factors should decide whether I should include a beam on my shed? Can I use deck screws to connect my plywood sheets onto my floor?
What about wind? It will survive?
Perfect! Thank you for your tutelage. I never knew the reason people used nails over screws. Since my aim isnt very good, I always use screws.
Having so much space under your shed, are you worried about giving rodents a home? I live in a area where ground hogs, wood chucks, gophers, voles and moles. They all tend to build homes under my deck.
Thanks! I'm glad you learned something. The space is needed to keep the frame dry. Before you close it in with the sheets you could add some chicken wire to the bottom around the edge to keep them out. I also have plenty of little creatures that like to be under it but it isn't too hard to deal with...although that doesn't make them less annoying
I was about to write what a rookie until you pulled the tags off the boards...a little late in the video but the boards might still hold up. Great tutorial
Haha oh I've heard it. Thanks
Looking like a rock band base guitarist!
Am I? lol Why do you say that? I'm just always curious because people say so many things I find it interesting to see what they see...because I just see me lol
lol
Lol thats so random but i can totally see it 😂
Very nice but isnt an adjustable decking pedestal on a cheap concrete slab cheaper, easier and faster?
Thanks. You can, but I didn't want it to be any higher in the air than it already is
Do you think if I was to just spread out the gravel or rocks that you used on the surface and build the other wood foundation you built on the last video right on top of it. Do you think this would last just as long or should I did a couple inches deep maybe 3 and fill it all in with the rocks. The spot I want to put the 8x10 at is pretty flat but grass gets pretty tall sometimes so I’m going to be excavating the 8x10 just like how you did in this video. (Just so your not confused I will be using your last vids foundation not this other floating one.) your doing a great job man really helping me with important info I was going to just dive in and try to do what I can but I want my shed and foundation to last !
Think of your digging the trench as forms for your gravel
No problem. The shed foundation from the last series will totally work and in that video, yes, I mentioned a couple inches of rock base. The same rock I used in this video would be perfect and help keep the grass down once you've excavated it out. It's all good. Good luck on your build and have fun!
Can i ask where u found those blocks? All i can find is the smaller ones
Lowes and Home Depot have them, but they may be separate from the normal landscape ones. Some landscape supply places carry them too.
Lowes and HD have those over where they keep the concrete.
The dogs comment. “Oh my gosh, it’s nice out” 😂😂😂
haha
Is that ok to use screws instead of nails for framing? We want to build one and not sure … thanks
I explained in the video as I went when I switched from nails to screws and back again. I even explained why. They both have their purposes. Maybe watch it a few more times to become acquainted with the process. I'm also working on plans that should hopefully be up next week that will make it super easy to follow along and will explain it all in great detail.
@@JessedoesDIY Screws are fine. In fact, neither were necessary since you also used joist hangers. I did the math on my build. A typical building screw can handle pressure treated wood and has a shear value of about 350 pounds. If you use 3 or 4 for the end of each joist, you have over 1,000 pounds of shear strength each. And, that does not even count the joist hangers.
I see your Bourbon Moth inspired entry
I learned soooo much just from this one video ❤. Thank youuuu
Awesome! I'm glad I could help
Why did you flip the cinder block over ? Thought the groves was for the board to sit in?
He doubled the rim joists on both ends, so they would not fit on the grooves anymore.
Yup!
Great video. Thanks. Wouldn’t you be able to also put the floor from the other series onto blocks if you have an uneven ground?
Thanks! This is basically that floor, just omitted the 4x4's is all. But yes you could do the other floor if you wanted it
What climate are you in? Will this work in colder climate like Canada?
I'm in central Saskatchewan lol so yes
Good job! What kind of blocks are those and what are they called?
Thanks! Depends on the store, just deck blocks or foundation blocks
Hi, can you explain the 16 inches apart, so the next joist should be measure from the 16 center or from the 16 a quarter?
If you lay them out as I showed, 16 3/4" and then back, then when you measure from the middle of one joist to the middle of the next joist that should be 16". The only one that won't be will be the first on the end and the second one. But the 2nd and 3rd will and so on.
What difference is there for the tie being used here in this video from the other tie built on the other shed?
What do you mean tie?
No other video explains how many fasteners per inch we would need or things like that, it was much apretiated
But can you explain how to choose the size of the wood itself?
Thanks, glad I could help! That's a bit tougher. You generally just want to go heavier than you think you'll need. This floor is heavy enough for anything that can be stored in the shed, including a small riding mower or snowblower.
In simple terms, the size of the wood is calculated based on the span (distance). There is a span guide/list that you can search for. You measure the length of the wood you need and based on that it tells you what size you need (2x4, 2x6, 2x8, etc.) Other variables it tells you is based on spacing (16" on center, 24", etc) and on wood type (fir, spruce, etc.) but you get the general idea. Search "Wood Beam Span Calculator".
Wouldn’t you get weeds growing from under the foundation?
Possibly. But my last shed 4 years ago never did because of the lack of sun I'm guessing. I've never had an issue anyways, but depending on where you live, you might.
Gracias por compartir con nosotros sus videos me gustaría que fueran traducidos a español es lo mejor que e visto está Muy bien explicado ❤
Veré qué puedo hacer al respecto con los subtítulos. Soy una operación de un solo hombre. Pero muchas gracias, ¡me alegro mucho que te gusten!
The concrete blocks were turned around to flat surface. Is that better
It doesn't matter, I just couldn't fit the second front and rear rim joist in the grooves is all.
12:18 If the structural screws have the same sheer rating as the regular screws, but they cost more...what is the purpose of using structural screws? or do u mean the structural screws have the same sheer strength as nails?
Same shear strength as nails.
What he said, nails
Would naturally rot resistant wood like pine or oak work instead of pressure treated to save money?
Pine is not rot resistant, that's why it is pressure treated. It would rot in no time otherwise. Oak would cost a fortune to build this out of, at least where I live. Cedar is a rot resistant option, but still costs twice as much as PT, again at least for me. Treated wood will almost always last longer than anything, depends on your local costs I guess
Great video, Jesse. Where did you buy all your fasteners? It looks like you bought in bulk, versus the overpriced boxes at big box stores.
Thanks! I have a local store, Home Hardware, that sells in bulk. But I did have a couple boxes I had to buy that they didn't sell.
Any concerns about not having this anchored?
In addition to it not being anchored (freeze/thaw cycles), then you have that gap where all kinds of critters can go to make a nest - rabbits, groundhogs, moles, squirrels, chipmunks, feral cats, etc.
Not for me, but if you live in a hurricane or tornado sone, your laws may require it.
So put some lattice or chicken wire below the shed man. I can't recreate every single scenario because I don't have them. But if you know you do, then solve it. But the air gap needs to stay so it doesn't rot
Do you not have twist nails for the joist hangers?
Not for this I didn't. Been oddly hard to find here
? With the brick on the rock, why did you turn it over from the groove.?
Because my double front and rear rim joist wouldn't fit inside them. Not a big deal.
@@JessedoesDIYthanks. I'm planning on doing what you did but as a floating deck floor and using composite
@@JessedoesDIYit'll be an 16x12
@@JessedoesDIYthanks I plan on building one just as a deck.
Is a weed membrane not really required? I’m building a shed like this now wondering. Thank you
It's up to you. I don't need one but there is no reason you can't add one
What made you choose 2 x 8 instead of 2 x 4? Also why not use the cheaper brown stained pressure treated wood from home depot/lowes? Is it mainly for looks? Or is it more weather resistant?
The last floor I made was with 2x4 and I could use that because of the 4x4 underneath picking up the load. For this floor I wanted to show another option, but also something that is better for uneven ground. Because it's supporting the whole shed above I didn't want to go less than 2x8 to hold the load over time. And this is all brown pressure treated wood, but it isn't that cheap here. Pressure treated is very durable however
In a wind storm, what keeps these buildings from flying through the neighborhood? I live in the South where high winds happen often. I never see anything about how to secure these buildings in videos only how to build them.
The weight mostly. It's crazy heavy once built and even more so once filled with stuff. I have seen 150 km/h winds with no issues. But tornado and hurricane prone areas may need to set the floor in place, mark for posts, remove the floor frame and drill holes to drop posts into the ground with concrete. set the floor back into place and cut the tops of the posts off and then fasten the floor frame to the posts sticking up with brackets and fasteners. I can't show that here myself because I have a deep frost line to deal with.
Im planning a 12' x 16' shed in Michigan, how many block supports should I use?
Load span?
The framing can take the weight, I just might use larger diameter blocks if you can find them to spread the load more and maybe add an extra in the center of the long sides
Why did you turn the concert blocks over after building the floor ,I'm confused
My front and rear second rim joists didn't fit in the grooves, that's all
damn thats some good looking soil
In this city, it really depends on where you are lol. My last house wasn't as nice
NOthing under the OSB? If anything, what would u use? Is it waterproof?
Exactly! I don't care HOW MUCH 'ventilation' is going through there. Wet ground from regular rains will retain moisture and vapor-release it right up against the OSB. Unless you are using treated boards and treated OSB (or polyethylene/plastic barrier on the ground), the lumber will eventually get mushy and spongy in 10-20 years and start to fail.
Nope. That dark underside is weather resistant from all the glue in OSB, and because it never gets wet because of the air gap, this is fine and will last decades.
4 blocks is enough? How much longer before youd add another block in the middle?
For this it is, but I have decently hard ground. If you're unsure I'd always add another in between, overbuilt is better than underbuilt. I'm also only using this as a storage shed for things, nothing crazy heavy like a riding mower is going in here
Palm nailer is a great affordable option
That's a good idea
cant find this type of deck blocks
There are many different kinds. You just want to shoot for a 3 or 4" thick block if you can that has a good wide footprint
@@JessedoesDIY ty
I just bought a new metal shed and I have zero experience with laying down cement (cost, tools, experience) so I plan on building a floating foundation like this.
Now on to my question for anyone...
Q: I like that it allows airflow, but how do people handle animals making homes underneath?
Currently I have a front deck and it is occupied by the UN of Animals (rabbits, skunk, sometimes snakes). I don't want that for the shed. I thought I could build an underground chicken wire wall around the inside of the frame before putting on the plywood, is that viable or any other suggestions?
That's awesome. I do have plans available for just the floor if you want. I'm not sure about the animals personally, but I have had many people comment on this and the last shed that chicken wire to just below ground is the most common option. I'm sure some lattice would also work. Good luck!
Common Jesse, don't do it !!! Just kidding :) I just all material to build shed based on your previous project :) Thanks a lot for inspiration. Cheers from Poland :)
Oh really!? lol sorry. Both sheds are great though so you'll be fine. To tell you a secret, I prefer the other shed anyways. The lean to design is just easier. Shhhh
why use joist hangers when you already have your joist nailed?
Joist hangers are the ones really providing sag and slide support. The fasteners are too, but can loosen over time a little bit. Belts and suspenders
Nails aren't load bearing. The joist hangers have more fasteners and these are structural fasteners made by Simpson Strong Tie.
Great if you live in the south...but if you live in a Freeze/Thaw (rainy in the spring and fall) zone, not so good. Over the years, without a proper cement footer, in the ground, on each corner, floating anchor systems can rise or sink, then you have a shed that is tilted, warped or sinking after 5, 10, 15+ years.
I live in a climate like that and my shead/ foundation is in great condition and it has been 15 years. Has not sinked, warped, or tilted yet. Everyone in the comments section thinks they are an expert.
@ adam - I'm not a "building" expert, never said I was, but what I *AM* an expert at is observation. Sister did a shed EXACTLY like this, no footer, no cement pylons as anchors, just placed it on the ground and in ten years there were gaps between the Camo/Tough bases and the lumber foundation structure and on another end it was pushed up from all the below freezing/freeze/thaw cycles. It was out of level. She had to shim it up the best she could to fill the gaps on the sunken parts. Showed this video to a contractor buddy and he was LHAO.
@@adam7349 The land of stupid always disappoints.
....maybe his clay wasn't that deep
Man, I'm in central Canada, not the south. You want to talk weather extremes, I have them, -40 to +40°C and everything in between. But I haven't had an issue with other sheds I've built like this. However, no shed foundation is ever perfect, some are just more resilient than others. If I wanted to go down into the ground here I'd have to go 8-10' down because my frost line is 6' deep in the winter, that's just not possible here without big machines and a significant cost increase. This is a foundation that can be easily installed by most homeowners in most locations. I can't speak to what went wrong on your sisters
How much would this project cost you?
Dude...literally have a price breakdown at the end of the video pop up on screen. Tell me you didn't watch the video
😂😂😂
😂😂😂😂
Love your video and break down. Just subscribed. Thank you! Think I'm going to give this style shot next spring
And this won't sink with such little gravel?
It'll settle a bit, but shouldn't sink, no. Done others similar to this and they've been fine. I guess unless you have very soft ground
Reassuring to hear enough air circulation didn't require a multitude of DPM, vapour barriers and the rest.
Nope. A gap is all that's needed
Can’t believe you didn’t glue the joints of the tongue and grooved sheets🤔
They would swell up and be hard to lock. It's not required
Wood expands and contracts. you have to allow for that to prevent buckling
Our city building code states that you must pour a concrete slab with a 24' rat wall. Talk about having no wind circulating. Makes no sense. Why did you double up on the rim joist.....strenght?
That's an interesting one....Yes double rim joists to prevent sag. The weight of every rafter hangs off it, but each rafter only has to support itself so you double the rim.
A strong wind could move this.
Would have to be a really strong wind because it's heavier than you thing once built, and full of stuff. It's seen 150 km/h winds and nothing happened. At that point I'm sure that more things will be damaged than just the shed
@ ok, good then.
The ripped off Bourbon Mouth opening was not as good as Bourbon Moth. Maybe work up an original idea?
Don't overthink it. Wasn't really copying, just having fun
You will have rodents living under there
What's a solution for this? I was thinking wire mesh around the base.
@ CE - the problem with that is aesthetics - if that's important to you. It looks unsightly to have chicken wire or some wire mesh tacked onto the outside of the framework hanging down to the ground. Then, you have to use lawn pins to attach the chicken wire/mesh to the ground. If not, wild animals quickly learn they can push on the bottom of it and still get in there (I know from experience...uuugghhh)
I won't, but you may. There are ways around it
isn't that the issue for all decks?
A quick shot inserted after talking about the OSB is the reason why I’m not going to subscribe. That is Grindr activity. It isn’t good good for construction videos.