I would question the benifit of heatshrink on a well spaced soldered joint, over waving 480C air round the tweeter / woofer cone for 10s. These guns melt solder, so plastics in the assembly / cone won't fair well. Just saying, probably best left out.
Danny, Hi. I had hoped that you would include instruction on how to add the fiberglass insulation in the finishing segment but looks like that was left out. If no video is forthcoming, I'm wondering if you can share the following (a) What is your preferred type of insulation (b) how much should we place in there (c) exactly where should it be placed and how "loose/compact" .. is it placed on top of the crossover, etc. (d)Does it need to be secured in any way.. ie. how does it stay in place as example when you were flipping the box to solder? Any detailed insight on this portion is much appreciated..
What bypass capacitor percentage to main capacitor percentage do you hotrod with? Or is it one value for all occasions? Have you sampled the resulting signal waveform of the combination vs the original waveform? Just curious.
Nice video thanks Danny. 2 questions - would building the box with a different material change it's performance, like a hardwood or HDF instead of MDF. Also will you be doing a video on setup, room placement? If not could you explain here ideal distance away from a way and minimum distance
Hardwoods are typically much more resonant than MDF so not an ideal material. It tends to move around, shrink or expand and is likely to crack or split sometimes. And the distance from the speakers will vary from room to room. They can be used close up in a desktop configuration.
I'd wager all beginners would be far better off going with just standard spade crimp plugs, provided they have a decent quality crimper...I mean you still have screw terminals on the back of the speakers and the amp...even if you solder directly to the drivers...
Tin-silver is used as a ROHS compliant alternative for tin-lead. Tin-lead is only allowed (for the industry at least) in special applications where the properties of the tin-lead soldering cannot be worked arround.
The conductivity due to the 3% silver plays no significant role, certainly not on a system level. What really matters is a stable and reliable connection. So you just want to make sure you make a good quality solder joint.
Thanks, Danny. My son and I are looking forward to getting our kit. We loved this video.
It's very pleasant and reassuring to watch you assemble these products. Really appreciate these videos.
I dripped solder on my tip once.
Next time I wore pants to keep my wedding tackle safe.👍
Great demo , i will buy this kit , its invented with such love and care and attention that it must sound superb
I use a small usb powered fan to blow the smoke away when I am soldering - works pretty good👍👍
Great job and well explained.
I would question the benifit of heatshrink on a well spaced soldered joint, over waving 480C air round the tweeter / woofer cone for 10s. These guns melt solder, so plastics in the assembly / cone won't fair well. Just saying, probably best left out.
Danny, Hi. I had hoped that you would include instruction on how to add the fiberglass insulation in the finishing segment but looks like that was left out. If no video is forthcoming, I'm wondering if you can share the following (a) What is your preferred type of insulation (b) how much should we place in there (c) exactly where should it be placed and how "loose/compact" .. is it placed on top of the crossover, etc. (d)Does it need to be secured in any way.. ie. how does it stay in place as example when you were flipping the box to solder? Any detailed insight on this portion is much appreciated..
Actually I think I did. Let me see where that one went.
What bypass capacitor percentage to main capacitor percentage do you hotrod with? Or is it one value for all occasions? Have you sampled the resulting signal waveform of the combination vs the original waveform? Just curious.
goes thru the effort of twisting all the crossover connections, then does a simple lap join at the speaker?
Nice video thanks Danny. 2 questions - would building the box with a different material change it's performance, like a hardwood or HDF instead of MDF. Also will you be doing a video on setup, room placement? If not could you explain here ideal distance away from a way and minimum distance
Hardwoods are typically much more resonant than MDF so not an ideal material. It tends to move around, shrink or expand and is likely to crack or split sometimes.
And the distance from the speakers will vary from room to room. They can be used close up in a desktop configuration.
Birch ply is reckoned to be very good for speaker cabinets
Why solder? Why not clips like evey other speaker out there?
that solder gun must be cumbersome to work with..
Indeed. Recent hakko or something would be great upgrade.
Sorry. For Europa almost RED is positive! White or nothing is negative.😁😁
No joke!
I'd wager all beginners would be far better off going with just standard spade crimp plugs, provided they have a decent quality crimper...I mean you still have screw terminals on the back of the speakers and the amp...even if you solder directly to the drivers...
how many dB is encore?
I seen some use wet rag on solder?
Some do and you can.
@@dannyrichie9743 thank you also heard about melted solder in bowel and dipping the wires in the solder?
Is silver solder better for electric conductivity than lead-tin?
Tin-silver is used as a ROHS compliant alternative for tin-lead. Tin-lead is only allowed (for the industry at least) in special applications where the properties of the tin-lead soldering cannot be worked arround.
The conductivity due to the 3% silver plays no significant role, certainly not on a system level. What really matters is a stable and reliable connection. So you just want to make sure you make a good quality solder joint.
@Jingle Nuts Fat Rat has disappeared from the YT comments, all his old comments seem deleted on PS audio, Guttenberg and here
It's not Flux it's rosin a completely different type of makeup and is non-toxic