How to plug large holes in Weatherboard Siding/Cladding
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- Опубліковано 3 лис 2024
- Welcome back to Ambrant DIY :-)
In this video we'll run you through the basic steps of plugging, filling and preparing larger holes for paint in your weatherboard system.
An important part of the weathertight envelope, repairing large holes in your weather board cladding will help protect your biggest investment, and keep your home warm and dry.
This method will allow you to easily plug, fill and prime your weatherboards, and help prevent any deterioration to your siding/cladding.
If you have any questions please ask or comment below.
Thanks for watching! - Please like and share! :)
Thanks for the video. Very informative without all the hyper! Love to see Kiwi videos ❤️ please make more!
Great video! Thanks and hello from the U.S.!!
Exactly what I needed to fix! Thanks!
Good to see and hear logical steps, I prefer to use the Ados or Turbo fill, the old fashioned bog, as after many attempts at using it, I'm now just getting the hang of it.
Nice vid. I have to do a service change at my house and have to move the main power wire hole up about 6 inches to fit the new panel. I was going to do the same thing you did, but didn't think of using the automotive filler over the plug. Good idea.
Cheers!
Good to see kiwi doing a diy vid on youtube, too many Americans lol
Oh I thought you meant a LARGE hole lol but I did enjoy the finishing, that will be useful to me.
Much larger than this and you’d be replacing with full weather boards.. glad you found the video interesting otherwise 👍🏼😊
Great series of vids mate. Thanks! Feeling confident about attempting some repairs now :)
Thank you! :) glad they've helped in some way..
Does that filler have some flexibility to be able to handle to shrinkage and expansion of the timber? That's where a lot of fillers fail in my experience
Hello, yes you're right, a lot of fillers can have this issue. It is best to look for one that has a little flexibility to move with the timber, and of course make sure you have a good primer and get that 3rd Coat on ;), it'll all help! - thanks for the comment.
Really good thanks!
Thank you!
I just have smaller holes to fill. Great video. Don’t I just need the mixture you made after you plugged the hole. Ie is there something similar to spackle that I use for drywall holes? Thanks
Yes - if the holes are a lot smaller you could get away with using the final 2 pot epoxy filler to fill just the wholes.. just make sure they are completed dry and free from dirt/dust etc, so it sticks well :) - thanks!
I've got to repair an old window sill, which is broken, rather than replace the window sill, is there anything I can do to shape or form the shape the window sill and not have the bog sag. Good to see a Kiwi on line.
Thanks!, If you're able to cut out/chisel out as much of the rot as possible, back to good timber. Then shape a new piece similar to what was taken out and Glue/pin it in place, and finish with the filler to smooth it out and sand back from there. Otherwise alternatively you could create a box mould around the piece you need to fill with scrap timber (screw or pin to existing good timber), and line with baking paper then fill it up from there to prevent sagging. I hope that makes sense! Cheers!
Great Vid mate very helpful. Hopefully you think about making more content to upload to UA-cam. Keep up the great work.
Was the timber you used for the plug treated?
Hello, yes most definitely, you'd be wanting to use treated timber - cheers!
Nice work
Excellent job
Thanks!
I guess you could also set the plug proud and sand it back to the weatherboard
You definitely could if you chose to... you'd still likely need to fill around where the glue gap is as this can sometime be quite porous etc. Cheers! :)
I wish you had shown the next step - you ended at priming the filled-hole area. After you prime the hole area that you plugged, do you spot-paint with the top coat paint first, and then when that's dry, paint the whole weatherboard? And, do you do ONE top coat of paint or TWO top coats? Haha, I'm serious. Wish I could have seen you do the complete job... especially as one could see some peeling paint on some of the weatherboards. If you DID re-paint just that one weatherboard, would you have sanded the whole weatherboard first? Really, that's all part of the jobisn't it, it doesn't just end when primer goes on does it? Cheers
Hello! Thanks for your comment, fair enough too.. I guess I could've completed it with the final painting steps. Yes I would usually wait till the primer dried and then spot touch up the area with 1 top coat, then probably coat the entire board with another full coat also (often even include a 3rd coat myself). What I did actually end up doing in this instance, was stripped the whole wall back to primer/timber, re primed and changed our top coat colour to white, as we were changing the paint scheme for the whole house. I hope that answers your questions! :) thanks again!
@@ambrantdiyseries2832 THANKS FOR THE REPLY! I'm doing my weatherboards right now (prepping and painting), it's winter where I am.
You said that in this instance you "stripped the whole wall back to primer/timber". Did you mean that you scraped it back, or sanded it back (electric sander), or did you use paint stripper?
If you used paint stripper, what kind of paint stripper works? There are weatherboards of different ages on my house ( 90+ years old), so some of the boards MAY have originally been painted with oil paint. And there is lead paint in at least 1/2 of the boards [and all the exterior window frames, and doors and door frames :-( ] I've got a 'painter' helping me, and he just goes gung-ho with the electric sander (with no mask), and now there's lead paint chips & dust all over my driveway and garden. Cheers :
Ah excellent - always difficult this time of year being windy/wet prepping your house for paint.. we often try wait till September ourselves when it starts to warm up before we start prepping for paint.. but thats just personal preference. We also have a 90+ year old house - and as we've done each wall, we typically strip it right back using a combination of sander and scrapers (if the paint underneath seems gummy, and clogs the sand paper, we will scrape it back, sand to timber, then prime with oil based primer). Haven't used paint stripper in a long time myself, as I'm not a fan of such harsh chemicals/burns etc. With the lead paint, you'll definitely be wanting to use a mask/gloves, and sweep up as much from the ground if possible also.. Good luck with the painting! always nice seeing the end result :)
@@ambrantdiyseries2832 - Thanks and cheers!!
Good Video. Kinda funny because you refer to three types of glue. Verbally, you say 15 minute drying, then your first tube says 1hour, then your large tube is 10 minutes.