Writeup and details at: lowpowerlab.com... This is a walk-through for making cheap high quality SMD metal stencils at home, using commonly available materials.
*Watched this again today after talking to chatgpt about photo emulsion solder stencil making. This video is great. Among the best electronics tutorials on this platform. Thanks again!*
Thanks for this. It took me two attempts, but the second attempt came out perfect. However I used laminated dry resist film, not vinyl. Lessons learned: use 0000 wire wool to sand off the resin from the coke can, acetone didn't work well for me. Be careful when sanding, as kinking the metal creates a crease that you can never get out and makes the stencil useless. Make sure metal is complely dry before laminating on the photoresist film (one website recommends having it wet, but the water turns to steam in the laminator and makes bubbles). Pause at regular intervals during etching to check under magnification, you don't want to over-etch.
Amazing. The acid part was the most amazing part. I never thought that it would eat through the metal like that, and do it so perfectly. I am blown away by that. First thing I am going to do is go back and watch this video a few more times. Subscribed.
After unsuccessfully looking for a can with easily removable paint I found one in Asian food store. Thailand-made fruit juice comes in a bare can covered in plastic film like heatshrink. No chemicals necessary, just peel off the label :-). The inside is still in place but this is going to be a "back side" anyway. Juice is pretty good, too, and price is like US$1 per 500 ml can. Highly recommended.
Jake Heuft you don't order/build a stencil to solder a single prototype. But I just produced a small batch of my current project and it was really helpful! Everything else is pretty time consuming.
Michael Fitzmayer That's what job shops are for. Entrepreneurs or inventors can not utilize this. If you start to hit the boundary where this is useful to you, you need to abstract the business and find specialization. Either someone that has these skills or a third party.
Really a very nice technique ! I just made my first stencil and the quality is really on top ! For information, having no vinyl, I did with a standard sheet of paper, the result is really good too. Thanks again !
THANK YOU for posting this FANTASTIC video! I have been searching for an inexpensive way to make SMT stencils, and this is by far the best method i found yet. Thank you! :)
Most often than not I now shrink by 8.5mil on all sides, even on some of the smallest pads (0.5mm pitch). This gives the best results when applying the paste and also best looking SMT stencil.
Dayumn Son!!!!!!! Samy Kamkar commented on this video!!! It means this method surely works. Going to try it right away without giving a second thought!! Cool video! and you are the coolest person Samy Kamkar!!!
Thank you Felix. Worked perfectly. I just bought a Cameo 3 Silhouette. I'm quite sure it will cut out the freaking stencil. This UA-cam is 2013... we are in 2017. any tough? please? with cherry on top.
To give you enough buffer when you etch. Also you want the etched holes smaller than the actual pads to avoid too much solder reflow and excess flux residue.
@@brad8122 I am guessing you could but you have to make a very good transfer, and then be very careful with the etching. However at how cheap stencils are these days I would not try that, at this point in time it's not worth the hassle and mess. Unless you want to experiment. Still back then in 2013 it was an attractive option for cheap (and quick!) stencils at home with very usable fine pitch.
Success finally! Your mixture ratio of 1 part acid, 3 parts peroxide is right, the problem was I had 10% muriatic acid (cheap cleaning brand and I noticed all other brands where around 25%). So I guess my mixture was about 1 part acid 6 parts peroxide before. I would have thought that with more acid the reaction would be greater but it's not so, this time with a 1:3 ratio it was much slower but it etched really evenly, the stencil looks great. Now to try with solder paste. Thanks for the info!
This limits the amount of solder paste that will be applied to the pad, and gives tolerance in board/stencil offset. It will also account for undercutting of the toner mask when etching. Using 7.5mil probably came from experience.
Also, the iron is set to the hottest position (I wait till its heated up and then place it on top of the sticky note stack for ~30secs, then apply pressure and movement gently not to jerk the vinyl underneath ... then rapidly put the stencil in cold water. Then the paper/vinyl should come off easily revealing a perfect transfer.
Neat idea. Ive been collecting information to try smd. Ill give this a try when I'm ready. Still trying to decide on how to convert a toaster oven. Seems to be so many ways.
I would try a slower reaction, mine takes about 10-12min, feels just right, not to slow, not too violently fast. The solution is 1 part acid, 3 parts peroxide, but still using the same ORIGINAL mix since January this year. I kept adding a little copper wire when it got dull and that rejuvenated it right up.
By the way, the smallest parts where MSOP-10's and there are a couple of 20 pin and 24 pin QFN's, really small footprints that came out looking really good.
I make stencils from clear plastic overhead-projector film, then cnc machine the holes with a 0.5mm or 0.7mm endmill. They are quicker to make and no issues of scaling like with a laser printer. And the clear stencil is great because you can see through it for pcb alignment. 🤓
Sometimes I just shrink in one dimension only (solder paste will reflow but what you really want is LESS solder paste). Sometimes after shrinking everything by a fixed amount I produce the PNG and then use the eraser to make the pads shorter on very small packages or on uUSB connectors. That's because too much solder paste will cause bridges. It's a lot of trial and error but after a while you start to get the feel of how much and which way to shrink pads.
A possible optimisation: If you leave the paint/epoxy on the reverse, you might not need to tape the reverse side, which may mean that you do not damage the stencil removing the tape. Test to see by taking one of the offcuts and putting it in the etchant. If it only reacts on the edges, the epoxy makes a good resist. Maybe there is a way to do a quick-and-dirty stencil by just scratching off parts of the epoxy!
Acetone will dissolve epoxy, get some from HomeDepot. Rubbing with a paper towel you should start seeing the metail within 1 minute or less. Some cans are harder, so try a different type of can. I found the heating does work in some cases and makes the epoxy easier to remove. I wouldn't worry about the paint so much. Just get the epoxy off without scratching the metal so you can transfer the toner. Keep trying, it will work, I've made many many stencils with this method.
Oh right, one last tip: check the developed film under magnification just before etching. Defects (pinholes) in the film seem to be common, but can be filled in using a CD marker pen.
Depends what thickness and if it creases easy. The can aluminum is perfect due to its properties. I laser etch stencils today, much easier and less effort, see my video on that.
@@Shanoo5142 Muriatic Acid is just a common name for Hydrochloric Acid. HCl is usually sold for adjusting the PH balance of swimming pools, or for cleaning concrete. It is also the first ingredient used in many many chemicals made in a chemistry lab. It's probably the most common acid available commercially around the world. One other enchant combo I've seen someone mention, and saved, but haven't tried myself is as follows: 150ml hydrogen peroxide 20g "lemon acid" (available in supermarket) 5g salt That's exactly what was described in a comment on another channel that I came across and took a screenshot of, but again, I haven't actually tried it. That receipe was intended for etching circuit boards but so is the Hydrocloric Acid and Hydrogen Peroxide shown here, (which is what I currently use to etch my boards too). -Jake
Toaster ovens are cheap, but you can try the skillet method from Sparkfun, I haven't but lots of people say that works well. With the toaster I can bake more boards at 1 time.
Great video, the one thing no-one ever seems to mention, I take it you cover the back of the metal, so the acid does not eat that. What do you use, the same as the front?
Hmm...the heat is important, but more important is to get the surface prepped correctly. The interior expoxy coat must be removed with acetone without getting the metal scratched *at all*. Then I use thin vinyl for the transfer and I get a 99.99% transfer...keep trying, I messed up many times before I got the hang of it and the desired results.
I was wondering initially whether this method is suitable for spray lettering/labeling stencils but I don't think so. All the rectangles of your project turned rounded.
Oh, sorry, what a mistake, 0.5mm it was - molex 52991-0508. The printer gave out choppy output - odd pixels were offset a bit. Looks like I'll have to try again with a different printer?
I have tried a half dozen times using ferric chloride on copper, aluminum and brass... and have not made a single stencil yet. it starts to work but I have not had it go all the way though, I have even left it in the solution for hours in direct sunlight for heat and all it did was bubble off the mask leaving a mess.
hi, for pcb boards many people use the less dangerous Na2S2O8 method instead of muriatic acid & hydrogen peroxide solution... dou you think that would work with a coke can too?
I tried leaving the outside paint on. That will obstruct the pads when they etch through risking to overetch if you cannot estimate how much they etched. So I prefer to give the outside a good wipe to at least have a clear idea how well the pads are etched. I also tried removing the epoxy layer with a pin, its way too time consuming and way too inaccurate. A laser cutter may be used to etch the epoxy but I haven't tried that - but the metal sheet has to be very flat, a bit hard with can metal
I can not catch this moment - clear tape is covered on the whole space excluding black zone? But what about back side of pads - it must be covered also?
Thanks for that fine tutorial, Felix. But you don't need to go through all of those gymnastics to get an appropriate aluminum sheet for this task. What I did, was buy a roll of 36 gauge aluminum foil at amazon that's normally used for arts and crafts. It's thickness is 0.005", whilst the thickness of a can's aluminum is normally 0.004". I know, because I measured it myself. Thanks again, and good luck.
The DIY aspect and the discovery aspect of using the soda can aluminum made it more interesting for the tutorial but you're right you don't even need to specifically use AL, could be something else. But its so cheap to make stencils these days this is totally not worth spending the time, other than for the fun and learning.
Your city/county should have a hazardous materials center or day when they collect stuff like that. FWIW ... I'm still on the first batch of acid solution for etching stencils, I never had to throw it away, still works just as fast, just added a bit of acid and peroxide on two occasions.
Mine is 1200 I think and I see no real difference between printing at 600 or 1200dpi. Make sure it's a laser printer and it's got plenty of toner. Also use the darkest toner setting available in windows.
Sorry I am no english and I can't understand the name of the chemical product you use to dissolve the aluminum: " peroxide ...." I just understand you said it possible to have it in a local pharmacy...
I tried this out today and it worked quite well. I think I over immersed at the first attempt and the solution ate most of the board. The second attempt was quite a success.The only difference is I did not have access to the vinyl paper and I used photopaper instead. Yes it took sometime to scrub it off after applying it to the metal. Also the coating inside the can did not come off with Acetone. Hence I had to scrub it with a kitchen scrubber. Thankfully the toner did stick to the metal though. Any ideas on how I can safely dispose the etching solution?
Not sure how you can go cheaper than toner and almost-free vinyl. I can have a stencil done in 20-30minutes from Eagle to finished product. I print the outline of the gerber on the paper, then cover that area with vinyl, re-print with the actual gerber, minimal toner and vinyl amount used.
I love this video! brilliant idea and very well executed. I plan on using a laser cutter to just make the stencil without the toner. Do you know if this type of aluminum is safe for laser cutters?
wait I still dnt get how this works.. the toner, you mean the printer ink? The printers ink will be enough to act as a barrier for the etching? I dont get how this is possible without cutting out the small holes..
Thanks for your reply. I tried using 600dpi for 0.1mm pitch and it was not clean enough and real 1200dpi printers are hard to find, that's why I asked.
Yeah ... give it a try and hopefully you have better luck than me. I had much better results with presensitized copper plates than with dry film - I have an early post on my blog about that. I'll be sure to visit your space next time I'm in Paris :)
Excellent idea, everything needed is explained in short. Quality video and narration. Not even a second wasted. Thanks for sharing!!.
*Watched this again today after talking to chatgpt about photo emulsion solder stencil making. This video is great. Among the best electronics tutorials on this platform. Thanks again!*
Thanks for this. It took me two attempts, but the second attempt came out perfect. However I used laminated dry resist film, not vinyl. Lessons learned: use 0000 wire wool to sand off the resin from the coke can, acetone didn't work well for me. Be careful when sanding, as kinking the metal creates a crease that you can never get out and makes the stencil useless. Make sure metal is complely dry before laminating on the photoresist film (one website recommends having it wet, but the water turns to steam in the laminator and makes bubbles). Pause at regular intervals during etching to check under magnification, you don't want to over-etch.
Excellent job Felix, in so many levels, very entrepreneurial and ingenious. Wish you continued success.
Very cool - this is the other half of my puzzle for homebrew PCBs. Thank you Felix.
Very VERY cool technique! I never would have thought it would be this easy to make DIY stencils!
Amazing. The acid part was the most amazing part. I never thought that it would eat through the metal like that, and do it so perfectly. I am blown away by that. First thing I am going to do is go back and watch this video a few more times. Subscribed.
Great, glad it worked out!
It take patience and perseverence, but when it works it feels so cool to make your own HI-Q stencils
You are a complete pro. Thanks for showing us noobs how it's done.
After unsuccessfully looking for a can with easily removable paint I found one in Asian food store. Thailand-made fruit juice comes in a bare can covered in plastic film like heatshrink. No chemicals necessary, just peel off the label :-). The inside is still in place but this is going to be a "back side" anyway.
Juice is pretty good, too, and price is like US$1 per 500 ml can. Highly recommended.
That's ingenious.
With a fine tipped applicator and good solder paste stencils aren't needed really.
Jake Heuft you don't order/build a stencil to solder a single prototype. But I just produced a small batch of my current project and it was really helpful! Everything else is pretty time consuming.
I used it, good effect and useful
Michael Fitzmayer That's what job shops are for. Entrepreneurs or inventors can not utilize this. If you start to hit the boundary where this is useful to you, you need to abstract the business and find specialization.
Either someone that has these skills or a third party.
Really a very nice technique !
I just made my first stencil and the quality is really on top !
For information, having no vinyl, I did with a standard sheet of paper, the result is really good too.
Thanks again !
From a laser printer? Did you have to stop the print before the laser printer does the heat roller to solidify the toner?
YES! Etching is the way to go for stencils, even for very fine pitches - it will do the job. Nice video, Thanks!
I have watched two videos from you and I loved them. They are very clever and helpful.
THANK YOU FOR SHARING!!!
THANK YOU for posting this FANTASTIC video! I have been searching for an inexpensive way to make SMT stencils, and this is by far the best method i found yet. Thank you! :)
Awesome idea! I frequently thought about doing something similar, but never thought about using an aluminum can!
Most often than not I now shrink by 8.5mil on all sides, even on some of the smallest pads (0.5mm pitch). This gives the best results when applying the paste and also best looking SMT stencil.
Very well filmed narrated and interesting video keep up the good work
Great vid, thanks!
Dayumn Son!!!!!!! Samy Kamkar commented on this video!!! It means this method surely works. Going to try it right away without giving a second thought!! Cool video! and you are the coolest person Samy Kamkar!!!
Thank you Felix. Worked perfectly. I just bought a Cameo 3 Silhouette. I'm quite sure it will cut out the freaking stencil. This UA-cam is 2013... we are in 2017. any tough? please? with cherry on top.
Very impressive. Thanks for sharing your technique.
so simple why am I not already using this method. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent! I will be trying this next week, thank you very much.
Great idea, hope to test it soon.
To give you enough buffer when you etch. Also you want the etched holes smaller than the actual pads to avoid too much solder reflow and excess flux residue.
Can I make .4mm diameter stencil with 0.8mm spacing between the disk centres with this method? For ddr3-2 sodimm type
@@brad8122 I am guessing you could but you have to make a very good transfer, and then be very careful with the etching.
However at how cheap stencils are these days I would not try that, at this point in time it's not worth the hassle and mess. Unless you want to experiment. Still back then in 2013 it was an attractive option for cheap (and quick!) stencils at home with very usable fine pitch.
Success finally! Your mixture ratio of 1 part acid, 3 parts peroxide is right, the problem was I had 10% muriatic acid (cheap cleaning brand and I noticed all other brands where around 25%). So I guess my mixture was about 1 part acid 6 parts peroxide before. I would have thought that with more acid the reaction would be greater but it's not so, this time with a 1:3 ratio it was much slower but it etched really evenly, the stencil looks great. Now to try with solder paste.
Thanks for the info!
This limits the amount of solder paste that will be applied to the pad, and gives tolerance in board/stencil offset. It will also account for undercutting of the toner mask when etching.
Using 7.5mil probably came from experience.
OMG impressive job!! That looks amazing, will try it at home for sure
Nice video. Can't wait to try this as stencil's are generally expensive.
Outstanding! I'm going to have to give this a shot.
Saw now. Nicely done. Thanks!
love your toner transfer method
Also, the iron is set to the hottest position (I wait till its heated up and then place it on top of the sticky note stack for ~30secs, then apply pressure and movement gently not to jerk the vinyl underneath ... then rapidly put the stencil in cold water. Then the paper/vinyl should come off easily revealing a perfect transfer.
Neat idea. Ive been collecting information to try smd. Ill give this a try when I'm ready. Still trying to decide on how to convert a toaster oven. Seems to be so many ways.
very well explained and nicely executed thanks for sharing, subscribed.
This is such a good idea. Thank you for this.
I would try a slower reaction, mine takes about 10-12min, feels just right, not to slow, not too violently fast. The solution is 1 part acid, 3 parts peroxide, but still using the same ORIGINAL mix since January this year. I kept adding a little copper wire when it got dull and that rejuvenated it right up.
thank you very much .. perfect description and small useful video
By the way, the smallest parts where MSOP-10's and there are a couple of 20 pin and 24 pin QFN's, really small footprints that came out looking really good.
Hi. Thi is very useful video indeed. The idea itself is brilliant. Thanks for sharing.
very good and simple tutorial.
I make stencils from clear plastic overhead-projector film, then cnc machine the holes with a 0.5mm or 0.7mm endmill.
They are quicker to make and no issues of scaling like with a laser printer.
And the clear stencil is great because you can see through it for pcb alignment. 🤓
Awesome, thank you very much. I will give it a try.
Sometimes I just shrink in one dimension only (solder paste will reflow but what you really want is LESS solder paste). Sometimes after shrinking everything by a fixed amount I produce the PNG and then use the eraser to make the pads shorter on very small packages or on uUSB connectors. That's because too much solder paste will cause bridges. It's a lot of trial and error but after a while you start to get the feel of how much and which way to shrink pads.
very nice procedure!
It was like +20steps to print the top paste layer.
Recommend to go with DipTrace,
only 3steps: select export, set any shrink, preview and then print.
On a serious note, what's the best way to safely dispose of the aluminum acetate type stuff left over?
Alright. I'll try it this weekend. Thank you for the quick help!
Did your stencil work?
A possible optimisation: If you leave the paint/epoxy on the reverse, you might not need to tape the reverse side, which may mean that you do not damage the stencil removing the tape. Test to see by taking one of the offcuts and putting it in the etchant. If it only reacts on the edges, the epoxy makes a good resist.
Maybe there is a way to do a quick-and-dirty stencil by just scratching off parts of the epoxy!
Really? Can I make .4mm stencil with 0.8mm spacing between the disk centres with this method? For ddr3-2 sodimm type
Awesome video. Great idea! I can't wait to try this.
you're a genius!! INGREDIBLE!! incredible, I have to do it myself!
Acetone will dissolve epoxy, get some from HomeDepot. Rubbing with a paper towel you should start seeing the metail within 1 minute or less. Some cans are harder, so try a different type of can. I found the heating does work in some cases and makes the epoxy easier to remove. I wouldn't worry about the paint so much. Just get the epoxy off without scratching the metal so you can transfer the toner. Keep trying, it will work, I've made many many stencils with this method.
Oh right, one last tip: check the developed film under magnification just before etching. Defects (pinholes) in the film seem to be common, but can be filled in using a CD marker pen.
VERY well done. Great ideas, well presented - Thanks!
Nice trick, I appreciate your work.
Thank you for the great video, Felix.
Happy New Year 2016.
Depends what thickness and if it creases easy. The can aluminum is perfect due to its properties.
I laser etch stencils today, much easier and less effort, see my video on that.
What other etching solution can we use.
@@Shanoo5142
Muriatic Acid is just a common name for Hydrochloric Acid. HCl is usually sold for adjusting the PH balance of swimming pools, or for cleaning concrete. It is also the first ingredient used in many many chemicals made in a chemistry lab. It's probably the most common acid available commercially around the world.
One other enchant combo I've seen someone mention, and saved, but haven't tried myself is as follows:
150ml hydrogen peroxide
20g "lemon acid" (available in supermarket)
5g salt
That's exactly what was described in a comment on another channel that I came across and took a screenshot of, but again, I haven't actually tried it. That receipe was intended for etching circuit boards but so is the Hydrocloric Acid and Hydrogen Peroxide shown here, (which is what I currently use to etch my boards too).
-Jake
i repeat this video a couple of times every year , i wish that someone share iphone IC stencil as PDF or PICTURE
thank you
Amazing! You have inspired me...
Great info. Thank you VERY much for such a great presentation.
Great, I will try this soon.
Toaster ovens are cheap, but you can try the skillet method from Sparkfun, I haven't but lots of people say that works well. With the toaster I can bake more boards at 1 time.
Great video, the one thing no-one ever seems to mention, I take it you cover the back of the metal, so the acid does not eat that. What do you use, the same as the front?
Yes, just clear tape
Yes, awesome! Thanks for this tutorial!!!
You do not have to use peroxide cos aluminium is quite reactive and alcl3 is pretty soluble. Also you can use naoh instead of acid.
pure awesome, gonna try this out!
Thank you very much. I really loved this tutorial
Great method! Thanks!
Very nice ! I need to try this out. Thank you :-)
Hmm...the heat is important, but more important is to get the surface prepped correctly. The interior expoxy coat must be removed with acetone without getting the metal scratched *at all*. Then I use thin vinyl for the transfer and I get a 99.99% transfer...keep trying, I messed up many times before I got the hang of it and the desired results.
I was wondering initially whether this method is suitable for spray lettering/labeling stencils but I don't think so. All the rectangles of your project turned rounded.
Oh, sorry, what a mistake, 0.5mm it was - molex 52991-0508. The printer gave out choppy output - odd pixels were offset a bit. Looks like I'll have to try again with a different printer?
Thanks a lot this video. This is very helpful for me.But hard work for me.
this is incredibly usefull and time and money saving (waiting for electroncis to ship is horrid.)
Great video
I have tried a half dozen times using ferric chloride on copper, aluminum and brass... and have not made a single stencil yet. it starts to work but I have not had it go all the way though, I have even left it in the solution for hours in direct sunlight for heat and all it did was bubble off the mask leaving a mess.
hi,
for pcb boards many people use the less dangerous Na2S2O8 method instead of muriatic acid & hydrogen peroxide solution... dou you think that would work with a coke can too?
Try it!
I tried leaving the outside paint on. That will obstruct the pads when they etch through risking to overetch if you cannot estimate how much they etched. So I prefer to give the outside a good wipe to at least have a clear idea how well the pads are etched.
I also tried removing the epoxy layer with a pin, its way too time consuming and way too inaccurate. A laser cutter may be used to etch the epoxy but I haven't tried that - but the metal sheet has to be very flat, a bit hard with can metal
I can not catch this moment - clear tape is covered on the whole space excluding black zone? But what about back side of pads - it must be covered also?
Thanks for that fine tutorial, Felix. But you don't need to go through all of those gymnastics to get an appropriate aluminum sheet for this task. What I did, was buy a roll of 36 gauge aluminum foil at amazon that's normally used for arts and crafts. It's thickness is 0.005", whilst the thickness of a can's aluminum is normally 0.004". I know, because I measured it myself. Thanks again, and good luck.
The DIY aspect and the discovery aspect of using the soda can aluminum made it more interesting for the tutorial but you're right you don't even need to specifically use AL, could be something else. But its so cheap to make stencils these days this is totally not worth spending the time, other than for the fun and learning.
Absolutely brilliant.
Your city/county should have a hazardous materials center or day when they collect stuff like that. FWIW ... I'm still on the first batch of acid solution for etching stencils, I never had to throw it away, still works just as fast, just added a bit of acid and peroxide on two occasions.
Mine is 1200 I think and I see no real difference between printing at 600 or 1200dpi. Make sure it's a laser printer and it's got plenty of toner. Also use the darkest toner setting available in windows.
Useful video!
Sorry I am no english and I can't understand the name of the chemical product you use to dissolve the aluminum: " peroxide ...." I just understand you said it possible to have it in a local pharmacy...
Hydrogen Peroxide and hydrocloric acid : H2O2 + HCL (3:1)
Felix Rusu thank you very much, you're video is fantastic.
Felix Rusu terima kasih ...
@@FelixRusu i do not think you can get 100% H2O2 in your local store
@@wormball Yes I can, where I live.
I tried this out today and it worked quite well. I think I over immersed at the first attempt and the solution ate most of the board. The second attempt was quite a success.The only difference is I did not have access to the vinyl paper and I used photopaper instead. Yes it took sometime to scrub it off after applying it to the metal. Also the coating inside the can did not come off with Acetone. Hence I had to scrub it with a kitchen scrubber. Thankfully the toner did stick to the metal though. Any ideas on how I can safely dispose the etching solution?
I like the aluminium can idea.
Not sure how you can go cheaper than toner and almost-free vinyl. I can have a stencil done in 20-30minutes from Eagle to finished product. I print the outline of the gerber on the paper, then cover that area with vinyl, re-print with the actual gerber, minimal toner and vinyl amount used.
genio...!.. muy bueno..! gracias por compartirlo..
this is really cool man!
I love this video! brilliant idea and very well executed. I plan on using a laser cutter to just make the stencil without the toner. Do you know if this type of aluminum is safe for laser cutters?
Great video. Subscribed.
MIND = BLOWN
OSH Stencils is a cheap alternative if you can't get access to these chemicals or if you just want a professional low cost stencil solution.
wait I still dnt get how this works.. the toner, you mean the printer ink? The printers ink will be enough to act as a barrier for the etching? I dont get how this is possible without cutting out the small holes..
Thanks for your reply. I tried using 600dpi for 0.1mm pitch and it was not clean enough and real 1200dpi printers are hard to find, that's why I asked.
Great video!
Thanks, and yes your guess was pretty much very close
Thanks Felix!
So I have no luck getting the print off of a köstrisser 0.5L can. Heated it to 300°C with a reflow station even, still no dice. Using pure acetone
Yeah ... give it a try and hopefully you have better luck than me. I had much better results with presensitized copper plates than with dry film - I have an early post on my blog about that. I'll be sure to visit your space next time I'm in Paris :)