A lot of creators have gotten dependent on UA-cam's "stable volume" option that does dynamic compression after the fact. This video just didn't get it.
@@AndyM...Yes, at 100% and it's still not comfortable. I need to mute everything else, don't open a bag or so, as I would not hear her talking any more or stop the video for opening a bag and resume the video afterwards. That's too low.
As others have said, you will have taken a big hit on range from being in iPedal mode. I'm going to try to give a full and clear explanation of why. To start, regenerative braking is more efficient than using friction brakes, because most of the kinetic energy is converted to stored electrical energy, rather than wasted as heat. But it is not perfect - there are losses in the motor and in the charging/discharging of the battery, so altogether perhaps about 70% of the kinetic energy removed will be returned to the wheels for future propulsion. On modern EVs, when you press the brake pedal this will trigger regenerative braking too, with the friction brakes only being used if the regen can't slow the car fast enough (i.e. when you're braking hard). So if you can learn the point where the friction brakes come in, and generally try to avoid passing it, slowing with the brake pedal is just as efficient as using iPedal. The benefit of iPedal is purely one of convenience (not having to move your right foot). Outside of cities, the most efficient option is Level 0 regen. Then you can hold your speed (or even accelerate) downhill without using any juice at all. In iPedal, you'd be using power to maintain that speed, or switching straight to regen and losing some energy. If you need to slow gradually for a corner or a reduced speed limit, lifting off earlier and coasting down to the new speed will save more energy than using regen. Every F1 driver knows that lift and coast is the most energy-efficient way to lose speed. On Hyundai/Kia cars, if Auto regen is turned on, you can have Level 0 regen set, and it will still bring in regen automatically to prevent gaining speed downhill, or if you are closing on a vehicle in front. On 4WD Ioniq 5s, driving in iPedal mode has an even bigger effect on range because 4WD is kept permanently engaged to maximise regen potential, so you have 2 electric motors wasting a little energy all the time, instead of one. In any lower level of regen will only bring the front motor in when needed, so is much more efficient. I drive my Ioniq on Level 0 as the default on the open road. When I need to slow more, sometimes I use the paddles, sometimes I use the brake pedal, which is slightly more effort but more precise. I do put the regen to max on single track roads, though, so the car will start to slow even while I'm moving my foot if I encounter a car coming the other way. Of course, for journalists, who may only have a car for a short time, and are constantly hopping between vehicles, it's harder to learn the most efficient use of the brake pedal on any given car, compared to an owner who mostly only drives the same one or two cars for years, and that makes iPedal even more attractive for you.
The "getting more range using I-Pedal" is false. The most efficient way to travel is by coasting when possible, especially on higher speed roads. Also, when you brake, it uses regen anyway unless you absolutely stomp on the pedal.
I’ve been driving my RWD Long range 84kwh for several weeks now and around town I easily get 3.5-5.5kwh by leaving the car drive mode in normal and regen set to level 3. On motorway driving I have still been getting 3.2-3.5 by setting the cruise control to 67 and the regen set to automatic. One other thing is that if you have a home wall box charger and are using the cheap rate off peak charging tariff 7 pence per kilowatt hour, then from zero to one hundred percent will only cost £5.88 and that will give you around 300 miles of range.
I bought an almost identical car. I seems that I-pedal invokes permanent 4-wheel drive. Both motors in constant use. My range dropped to just over 200 miles. I now use level 3 regen and make use of the paddles. On my regular driving the range increased to approx 250. In this mode, 4-wheel drive is invoked only when needed. Also I-pedal mode is basically level 3 with complete stop. You can adjust the level of braking in setting. I use the medium setting which feels more like a "normal" car. Great video and congratulations.
Use of “Auto” Regen on the motorway has allowed my EGMP Rear wheel drive GV60 to attain 3.5 mi/kWh lifetime over 23,000 miles. That’s 3 winters and 1000’s of miles of motorway driving. Auto Regen on motorway, Adaptive cruise control when on the motorway set at 74mph (70 mph GPS), ipedal in town and extensive use of heated steering wheel and heated seats in or instead of heated cabin ( and if using heated cabin using Auto low and recycle air) has given great efficiency over the lifetime of the car. I don’t even use ECO - the use of your left foot probably has more impact than ECO without hamstringing the car’s performance when needed. I must admit that’s mostly an unloaded car with only driver. Would be interested to hear of other people’s lifetime mi/kWh in a EGMP vehicle.
@ it’s the bespoke 800 v architecture EV platform used by Kia, Hyundai and Genesis for a number of their contemporary EVs - the Kia EV6, EV9, Hyundai Ioniq 5,6 and Genesis GV60 plus some new EVs coming out notably not the Kia EV3. It’s super fast charging, efficient - typically 3.5mi/kWh or better, supports Vehicle to Load and has their excellent regen system offering full 1 pedal driving and reg controls via paddle shifts behind the steering wheel.
I had the same issue in an Audi Q7 this week. Had a puncture and the car had a spare wheel. Turns out the spare was 22” when the existing one was 21”. Got to 30mph and traction light came on. Soon cleared as the car learnt that it was ok. Now had the punctured tyre replaced and all is well again.
Congrats Eilis! Xx Our N-Line had a different wee issue - sometimes the collision detection would hallucinate and go off in a car park when reversing. Not even a vicious home bargains shopping trolley in sight to worry the sensors! When it stops it stops HARD even at low speed it makes a bit of noise and chucks out a wee bit of brake dust (not ideal) and I startled one trolley handler when it happened. Must have been a OTA update as it's behaved in the last few months. Otherwise, superb car.
Oh gosh yeah that is not ideal 😅 glad to hear it’s been resolved, though. There’s always a risk of teething problems but Hyundai are a great brand and make great cars
I have a similar issue on my Lexus and before that on my RAV4 -- there is a particular turn in the road in Shrewsbury where the detector sees parked cars as oncoming traffic and throws a wobbler ... we remain in charge ...
I charge my 2024, 77.4 KWhr Ultimate for less than £6 on an EV tariff. In summer this is enough for over 300 miles round town, but motorway does drop the range to about 270 miles.
i-pedal is best for heavy town traffic. Then Auto-regen level 3 is a great all round setting for normal and rural twisties driving. Then zero regen for motorway and high speed road use. Many people find that using i-pedal is not the best for economy. Mostly because it also uses all wheel drive so that both motors are always in use.
For motorway driving... well really all driving... Eco mode and auto regen gives far more range than "i-pedal". It is largely when and how it engages single or both motors.
Elevation is high at least between Reading and Bath. My miles per kwh improves by 20% and above on the return journey because of many downhill sections.
I wonder if the tyre issue was affecting the range. I had an older Ioniq 5 (base model I think) as a rental in Germany in November and early December. Range said 447km when I started driving it from the underground carpark in Munich. Spending 4 weeks in the Bavarian Alps, Black Forest and around Lake Constance, I was getting real world 350km usually. Sometimes 300 if I was doing 150+ kmh on the autobahn (no surprise - high speed kills fuel economy irrespective of the fuel source!) and just over 400km on flattish 60-80kph roads. Spent most of the trip on regen 3, and using the cruise control features which smoothed out the driving too. That time of year was pretty cold - low single digits with a few snowy days and minus temps.
Kudos to the traction control detecting an issue so seemingly small. Would it do the same if tyre pressures were different between wheels? Or if tyres had different grip profiles from each other on the same vehicle?
100miles took 62%? yeah it sounds like the awd was engaged all the time. Bjørn Nyland got 196 miles on a 100% charge in a 75mph range test. also at around 4C deg!
I recognise that street! If I'd known you were around the corner from my house in Bath filming, I would have popped over on my ebike and said hello! :)
After you arrive home: does the traction control sign (off) disappear from the dashboard once you drove the car the next day? or you have to turn off the TC again?
I have the 2024 Sel. It’s better to change your regen based on the situation. Or use adaptive cruise control more often to increase range. I-pedal 100% of the time is less efficient.
The spec levels on the UK versions compared to the Australian versions are so different that I thought I was watching a video for a different model car! We get 3 levels: one base level, a medium AWD level and the top level one. The Dynamiq (medium) is the one I've put some money down to be the in the queue for: we've always got the bigger battery and a heat pump as standard from Hyundai in their EV models in Australia.
Re the model variants. What is amazing here in Australia with my '23 Ioniq 6; I got the base-model RWD Dynamiq variant. But it came with the same full leather seats, V2L, head-up display, surround view monitoring, smart-park assist, intelligent headlight system, BOSE stereo sound system and blind-spot view monitoring as the top-variants have. 🤗🤔
I wish i know what Hyundai were thinking when they built the Ioniq 5. Ive got a 2020 Classic Ioniq 38kWh and in those conditions we still wouldnt get less than 4m/kWh. We average about 4.6 in winter and 6.7 in summer and fet very upset if we go under 4 in winter. Trouble is were spoiled for any other car now, cant face having to be pleased with 4m/kWh max! Nice to see you again, sorry not been commenting much...life...👍 Glad you got to the bottom of the traction control problem, interesting info to file away. I never understood why traction control operating actually feels like you have less control than just dealing with the slippery road yourself! Felt that way about ABS when it first came in until i got used to it...yet more proof of what an old fogey i am lol!😅 Oh my goodness, i nearly forgot to say Congratulations to you both!🤗🥰
Daily reminder, high levels of regen DOES NOT increase efficiency, especially not on motorways and even more so with ipedal which uses friction brakes front and rear in addition to regeneration even though you are not touching the brake pedal!
You want level 1 regeneration breaking on I have one and if you take your foot off the accelerator, you’ll just start slowing down which is very inefficient
I have a 3 year old 73 kwh rwd. In the winter I average about 240 miles on a charge. In the summer I can get just over 300. More likely 285. I frequently manage 3.8 milds per kWh. Occasionally 4.
I have recently developed a rattle in the boot of my Ioniq 5. Very annoying and I'm going to bring it back to the dealer as soon as I het a chance. I wonder is this a common issue. Love the car other than that and its been very easy to live with.
@@Forhesa you can go as low as you dare, I've been home many times below 10%. The thing is not to leave it below 20% for a long period. It's fine if you are going to charge that night.
Worrying story on quite a few levels. Not sure how a manufacturer releases a car to media with the wrong diameter tyre on it. That’s a lawsuit waiting to happen. 😬 Really glad you were okay and no-one got hurt. Would highly recommend advance driver training as you’ll definitely find it helps boost your confidence as well as skill/knowledge level. (And cheaper insurance! 😆)
In a few years the prices for these legacy EV's will adjust to true market value, currently they are priced on hope and greed. I'll wait until then I think. There needs to be more pressure put on manufacturers to stop these electrical/safety systems glitching like they do.
i pedal is the worst for economy - maybe that's the issue. For a start, it engages AWD in that mode, which kills economy also. It can work great in town, but I find that auto regen level 3 is a good compromise. 3.2 - 3.5 m/kwh is easily doable without too much effort if you stick to eco mode, with the odd normal or sport for the short sliproads/overtakes!
We've had ours now for 2 weeks but not been on the motorway yet, so will be checking on the traction issue you had. Ours is RWD so might not be affected? Our range has been spot on so far but only used for town driving. Wife constantly sets heated climate/seats/steering wheel from her phone before every journey though so good job for the cheap night time leccy 🙄😃😃🔋⚡️
We rented an Ioniq 5 while on a trip and had a different issue which turned out to be a common bug. The issue was that the car refused to shift into drive. The first time it happened to my wife while at a charger at 5am. She ended the charge session and attempted to drive back to the hotel so we could go to the airport. It took approximately 10 minutes and multiple tries of turning the car on and off before it finally shifted into drive and she was able to depart. When she got back to the hotel she told me of the incident and how stressful it was seeing as we were one a tight schedule. After our luggage was loaded we attempted to depart for the airport when it happened again! This time it resolved in about 5 minutes but WTF!? It turns out it has to do with the timing of stepping on the brake and putting the car into drive. The supposed fix is to turn the car off, exit the car, lock the door, give it 30 seconds to 1 minute, and try again. This is unacceptable and needs to be fixed immediately by Hyundai. I currently own a Tesla and will not consider buying another brand until they can match the quality and charging experience of Tesla. This experience, along with the non Tesla charging network, makes me understand why EV adoption is way slower than it should be.
Hyundai Electric car is correct. Hyundai's starting method is most similar to that of internal combustion engine vehicles, making it safer. Tesla's method of starting the engine by simply stepping on the pedal is a common mistake for people driving electric vehicles for the first time.
I had one off these for 3 years and overall it is a good car if you can put up with the multiple bings an bongs. The charging is super fast if you are prepared to pay for it. However, it is a big car which is often missed when looking at in pictures. Not the greatest car to drive though due to the size.,
Congrats, Eilis! That issue with the car sounds scary and potentially dangerous. Glad you had your partner in the car with you. I think if it were me I'd be a bit more critical of something so scary.
I would literally cry if I ever got a 2.8 from my EV!! My average is 4.9 at the moment in the cold weather, it started off at 5.5 but started putting the heating on
Good girl showing the range truth, you did almost 100 miles on 60% of the battery which I calc to be about 140-170 per 100% charge, the dash even backs you up with the 2.8kwh rating, just like the old gasoline days there will be those that have the unicorn that gets 5.0kwh, then we have the overnight charge tariff at home which gets amp'd up 10-12x if you have to use a public charger, currently an EV owner relying on public charging is paying £9 a gallon in real terms, congrats on the engagement and don't go off course in the future, if the car isn't doing what it's claimed to be able to do say so like you have here.
The jumping thing at 50 ish mph is a common fault on the new Ioniq 5. 3/3 of the new cars we have had at work have had it. I think their answer is rubbish, I’ve just checked my tyres and they are all the same.
They changed one tire or all of the tires? It sounds like she said they changed one tire (not plural). If they changed one tire, ok that's a tire defect. If they changed all of the tires, they delivered a car out of spec to review.
Still wouldn't buy any Korean car, the incessant bonging for everything is like a kid on a game console, no thanks despite how good they make the car. Just stop the u necessary noise.
Digital mirrors though suck as humans have to change their optical distance and doesn't really show you what it may be in reality and wonder whether it will get blocked by dirt/snow/rain/etc. But as other reviewers have said the route planning still sucks even with the CNCC system which my Kona also has, so the hardware is great but the software team still needs to learn which in 2025 really shouldn't be the case not when others can do it really well. You'll have to now do a Ioniq 6 review which has far better efficiency and isn't an SUV.
ALL cars whether ICE or EV can have weird issues that can often be solved by letting the computers sleep. Turn the car off, get out, lock the doors and most minor issues will solve themselves. Always carry an 8mm and a 10mm spanner and know where your 12v battery is in case you need to go next level and disconnect the negative lead for a few minutes.
Drivers who are not disabled have 2 hands which are there for driving not for waving at UA-cam viewers. Ellis needs to use the car correctly otherwise the motorway problem will be an accident next time.
I was looking into getting a electric car and Facebook type sites are full of “I’m richer then you” types, like “oh we are looking at getting a Cupra Born, it be a nice spare runaround next to our Porsche " 🥱
I have a 2022 model. Called a crossover (correct) NOT an SUV back then. My DVLA registration document says "estate", which is perfectly ok - I find it very similar to the Audi A6 Allroad l had previously. A true SUV needs 4wd, big ground clearance and underbody protection to enable safe use in the wild, not just rough tracks. Less than 10% of what nitwits call SUVs nowadays are worthy of the name. Mostly are "MPVs" or "PCs", which are very practical for families and the aged, and (especially if electric) supply a lot of internal space for a relatively small footprint.
Right, so in the end, the traction control safety system that is suppose to help you in the event of emergency braking/accelerating situation caused ill effect whilst driving on the motorway in a non-eventful situation, therefore you need to turn it off in order to not experience this but then risk not having traction control safety system help protect you in what appears to be winter for you which is wet roads and even snow. And to remedy this is a simple case of buying a new set of 4 wheels and tyres. WOW. Never have I seen such a stupid cause and effect and remedy. But then again I never thought much of Hyundai EV's, they are more bells and whistles than solid product.
My rear wheel drive gets 2.7m/kwh, which seems a bit sub par. The 800V number pertains to the battery voltage. The charging speed limit is 350KW, idk where the 280 number comes from. I've not had any traction control issues. But if your tyre size is reduced, you'll get 10% more range for every inch you drop.
@kevins718 Can you sort the syntax here. I'm an electrician from the black and white days, I can't understand why a 350KW charger won't supply 350KW charging.
But the rear view mirror is so you can check what the kids are up to in the back seats! Now you have to turn round to look... that's not good. And Hyundai delivered you a car with a dodgy tyre? That's not a good advertisement for their top of the line model.
I bet Hyundai were thrilled that they gave you a car and you then mispronounced their brand name - especially after they spent millions publicising how to pronounce it....
I mean they also seem to have supplied it with the wrong tyres somehow and made it dangerous to drive on the highway, so they're probably not focussing on pronunciation...
So pretty much all that the traction control in this Hyundai did was to try and kill you (together with your passenger)... And all this because of a slight difference it had in the presumed size of the tyre? The future of so called Smart Cars looks very dark to me...
My 17 year old Mercedes EClass diesel does 650 miles at highway speeds. Never have to worry about range. I just set the sat nav to my destination and go. Can you imagine that. Drive and arrive, without all that EV hassle in the middle.
But can you drive for 2p a mile. If you do mostly shorter journeys and charge at home you can just set the satnav and go and never have to visit a filling station. I know, we don't always charge at home if we do longer journeys but most people stop for comfort breaks, coffee, lunch, etc. and don't drive 650 miles without stopping. If you always charge when you are stopping anyway, it's just as easy. The only real issue is the cost of charging at public chargers but, if it's only occasionally, you still benefit from cheaper driving overall.
1. No one drives 650 miles without a significant break. 2. Co2 emissions have to be tackled urgently. You're either an anti science climate change denier, or couldn't care less about the environment and everything living in it
A recent pier reviewed report in nature says that the AMOC has remained unaffected for 60 years, which doesn't fit in with global warming theory ? Obviously even the experts are doubting the effect of a trace gas of only 422 parts per million in the atmosphere now ? To tow a 4 berth fixed bed 7.5 metre caravan 350 miles, to the highlands of Scotland, which i do regularly, you need a solo range of 650 miles. I have got a life and the car to do it and it isn't an EV as my long distance car, that can't and would battery degrade and devalue like a stone, because nobody wants them now like my other car an EV has. As for my personal perception. I have been on the earth 66 years. In the UK, from my memory, the hottest, longest summer was 1976. That was nearly half a century ago. We could do with some global warming in the NE of England and Scotland, it is bitter, every year still ? Even worse now Labour has removed our winter fuel allowance.
I also have an EV, i was an early adopter. It is only used, tethered to it's octopus go home charger and only used by the wife as a shopping trolley now. The battery has degraded by 42% after only 41 k miles. Never again. On a run, we take the 17 year old diesel E Class Merc. It does 51 mpg at highway speeds, costing 15 p per mile. An EV using rapid chargers costs 67p per kwhr ( Tesla ) , 79 p per kwhr ( gridserve ) and 85 p per kwhr ( instavolt ) others are similar price, with a typical cost per mile of 25 p. 10 p per mile more than my diesel. I wouldn't buy an EV ever again. Remember good products are sold on features, bad products are sold on price, they are discounting and pre registering new EV's just to try and sell them but they are failing, even at give away prices. EV's are dead in the private market, nobody wants them.
I had the same issue in an Audi Q7 this week. Had a puncture and the car had a spare wheel. Turns out the spare was 22” when the existing one was 21”. Got to 30mph and traction light came on. Soon cleared as the car learnt that it was ok. Now had the punctured tyre replaced and all is well again.
Audio level is a bit low..🦻
A bit???? 😂
A lot of creators have gotten dependent on UA-cam's "stable volume" option that does dynamic compression after the fact. This video just didn't get it.
Definitely, just about had my volume at 100% ! 😮😮😮
@@AndyM...Yes, at 100% and it's still not comfortable. I need to mute everything else, don't open a bag or so, as I would not hear her talking any more or stop the video for opening a bag and resume the video afterwards. That's too low.
Is it ever. Really bad.
Congrats on the Engagement! Great video too.
Congratulations dear! Many happy years ahead
Inappropriate positivity. E-lish is no longer my fiancé
@@Kitoftheartsyou’re the person she referred to in the video as her fiancé?
As others have said, you will have taken a big hit on range from being in iPedal mode. I'm going to try to give a full and clear explanation of why.
To start, regenerative braking is more efficient than using friction brakes, because most of the kinetic energy is converted to stored electrical energy, rather than wasted as heat. But it is not perfect - there are losses in the motor and in the charging/discharging of the battery, so altogether perhaps about 70% of the kinetic energy removed will be returned to the wheels for future propulsion.
On modern EVs, when you press the brake pedal this will trigger regenerative braking too, with the friction brakes only being used if the regen can't slow the car fast enough (i.e. when you're braking hard). So if you can learn the point where the friction brakes come in, and generally try to avoid passing it, slowing with the brake pedal is just as efficient as using iPedal. The benefit of iPedal is purely one of convenience (not having to move your right foot).
Outside of cities, the most efficient option is Level 0 regen. Then you can hold your speed (or even accelerate) downhill without using any juice at all. In iPedal, you'd be using power to maintain that speed, or switching straight to regen and losing some energy. If you need to slow gradually for a corner or a reduced speed limit, lifting off earlier and coasting down to the new speed will save more energy than using regen. Every F1 driver knows that lift and coast is the most energy-efficient way to lose speed.
On Hyundai/Kia cars, if Auto regen is turned on, you can have Level 0 regen set, and it will still bring in regen automatically to prevent gaining speed downhill, or if you are closing on a vehicle in front.
On 4WD Ioniq 5s, driving in iPedal mode has an even bigger effect on range because 4WD is kept permanently engaged to maximise regen potential, so you have 2 electric motors wasting a little energy all the time, instead of one. In any lower level of regen will only bring the front motor in when needed, so is much more efficient.
I drive my Ioniq on Level 0 as the default on the open road. When I need to slow more, sometimes I use the paddles, sometimes I use the brake pedal, which is slightly more effort but more precise. I do put the regen to max on single track roads, though, so the car will start to slow even while I'm moving my foot if I encounter a car coming the other way.
Of course, for journalists, who may only have a car for a short time, and are constantly hopping between vehicles, it's harder to learn the most efficient use of the brake pedal on any given car, compared to an owner who mostly only drives the same one or two cars for years, and that makes iPedal even more attractive for you.
Thank you for pointing this out. I've been trying to get people to understand the difference between regen and one-pedal driving forever.
well explained, thanks
I will put my regen on 0 when on a motorway type trip in future.
Bravo❤
The "getting more range using I-Pedal" is false. The most efficient way to travel is by coasting when possible, especially on higher speed roads. Also, when you brake, it uses regen anyway unless you absolutely stomp on the pedal.
I’ve been driving my RWD Long range 84kwh for several weeks now and around town I easily get 3.5-5.5kwh by leaving the car drive mode in normal and regen set to level 3. On motorway driving I have still been getting 3.2-3.5 by setting the cruise control to 67 and the regen set to automatic. One other thing is that if you have a home wall box charger and are using the cheap rate off peak charging tariff 7 pence per kilowatt hour, then from zero to one hundred percent will only cost £5.88 and that will give you around 300 miles of range.
I bought an almost identical car. I seems that I-pedal invokes permanent 4-wheel drive. Both motors in constant use. My range dropped to just over 200 miles. I now use level 3 regen and make use of the paddles. On my regular driving the range increased to approx 250. In this mode, 4-wheel drive is invoked only when needed. Also I-pedal mode is basically level 3 with complete stop. You can adjust the level of braking in setting. I use the medium setting which feels more like a "normal" car. Great video and congratulations.
Agree. No point using Eco Mode and i-Pedal at the same time. Use Eco Mode and L3 regen or Auto Regen.
Use of “Auto” Regen on the motorway has allowed my EGMP Rear wheel drive GV60 to attain 3.5 mi/kWh lifetime over 23,000 miles. That’s 3 winters and 1000’s of miles of motorway driving.
Auto Regen on motorway, Adaptive cruise control when on the motorway set at 74mph (70 mph GPS), ipedal in town and extensive use of heated steering wheel and heated seats in or instead of heated cabin ( and if using heated cabin using Auto low and recycle air) has given great efficiency over the lifetime of the car. I don’t even use ECO - the use of your left foot probably has more impact than ECO without hamstringing the car’s performance when needed.
I must admit that’s mostly an unloaded car with only driver. Would be interested to hear of other people’s lifetime mi/kWh in a EGMP vehicle.
@@Antiguan_Dart What EGMP?
@ it’s the bespoke 800 v architecture EV platform used by Kia, Hyundai and Genesis for a number of their contemporary EVs - the Kia EV6, EV9, Hyundai Ioniq 5,6 and Genesis GV60 plus some new EVs coming out notably not the Kia EV3. It’s super fast charging, efficient - typically 3.5mi/kWh or better, supports Vehicle to Load and has their excellent regen system
offering full 1 pedal driving and reg controls via paddle shifts behind the steering wheel.
I had the same issue in an Audi Q7 this week. Had a puncture and the car had a spare wheel. Turns out the spare was 22” when the existing one was 21”. Got to 30mph and traction light came on. Soon cleared as the car learnt that it was ok.
Now had the punctured tyre replaced and all is well again.
Congrats Eilis! Xx
Our N-Line had a different wee issue - sometimes the collision detection would hallucinate and go off in a car park when reversing. Not even a vicious home bargains shopping trolley in sight to worry the sensors! When it stops it stops HARD even at low speed it makes a bit of noise and chucks out a wee bit of brake dust (not ideal) and I startled one trolley handler when it happened.
Must have been a OTA update as it's behaved in the last few months. Otherwise, superb car.
Oh gosh yeah that is not ideal 😅 glad to hear it’s been resolved, though. There’s always a risk of teething problems but Hyundai are a great brand and make great cars
I have a similar issue on my Lexus and before that on my RAV4 -- there is a particular turn in the road in Shrewsbury where the detector sees parked cars as oncoming traffic and throws a wobbler ... we remain in charge ...
I charge my 2024, 77.4 KWhr Ultimate for less than £6 on an EV tariff. In summer this is enough for over 300 miles round town, but motorway does drop the range to about 270 miles.
i-pedal is best for heavy town traffic. Then Auto-regen level 3 is a great all round setting for normal and rural twisties driving. Then zero regen for motorway and high speed road use. Many people find that using i-pedal is not the best for economy. Mostly because it also uses all wheel drive so that both motors are always in use.
Congrats on your engagement! 🎉😊
Inappropriate positivity
For motorway driving... well really all driving... Eco mode and auto regen gives far more range than "i-pedal". It is largely when and how it engages single or both motors.
Congratulations on your engagement 🙌🥳
Congratulations 🎉 🎉🎉
My Ioniq is usually in the 5’s and summer it’s achieved 6m/KWh… so I can’t help think 2’s is a bit drastic I’d say…
Elevation is high at least between Reading and Bath. My miles per kwh improves by 20% and above on the return journey because of many downhill sections.
I wonder if the tyre issue was affecting the range. I had an older Ioniq 5 (base model I think) as a rental in Germany in November and early December. Range said 447km when I started driving it from the underground carpark in Munich. Spending 4 weeks in the Bavarian Alps, Black Forest and around Lake Constance, I was getting real world 350km usually. Sometimes 300 if I was doing 150+ kmh on the autobahn (no surprise - high speed kills fuel economy irrespective of the fuel source!) and just over 400km on flattish 60-80kph roads. Spent most of the trip on regen 3, and using the cruise control features which smoothed out the driving too. That time of year was pretty cold - low single digits with a few snowy days and minus temps.
I have an 84kwh Premium RWD Ioniq 5 at this time of year I’m getting 240miles on the motorway, about 300 miles on A roads. I drive on regen level 1
Do you use cruise control?
@@Forhesa only really in average speed trap areas.
Kudos to the traction control detecting an issue so seemingly small. Would it do the same if tyre pressures were different between wheels? Or if tyres had different grip profiles from each other on the same vehicle?
All very well nipping about in posh cars - we want to see you do London to Bath in your Citroen Ami!
Well she's done it on her ebike 😉
Maybe state what tyre size was on vs what they changed too🤔plus i dont see how a car can be factory fitted with the wrong tyre size !!
Congratz for your engagement🎉
I just found out that if you drive in I-pedal it keeps the car in AWD. Best mode for range is ECO with regen 1. AWD will disconnect at 15mph.
100miles took 62%? yeah it sounds like the awd was engaged all the time. Bjørn Nyland got 196 miles on a 100% charge in a 75mph range test. also at around 4C deg!
Congratulates on the engagement. Not had this issue with my previous Ioniq 5 or my new N. Technology: switch it off and on again 🙂 to fix?
I recognise that street! If I'd known you were around the corner from my house in Bath filming, I would have popped over on my ebike and said hello! :)
When showing the space inside a car, please don't use a very wide angle lens, it makes it difficult to judge the space.
After you arrive home: does the traction control sign (off) disappear from the dashboard once you drove the car the next day? or you have to turn off the TC again?
Yea
I have the 2024 Sel. It’s better to change your regen based on the situation. Or use adaptive cruise control more often to increase range. I-pedal 100% of the time is less efficient.
The spec levels on the UK versions compared to the Australian versions are so different that I thought I was watching a video for a different model car! We get 3 levels: one base level, a medium AWD level and the top level one. The Dynamiq (medium) is the one I've put some money down to be the in the queue for: we've always got the bigger battery and a heat pump as standard from Hyundai in their EV models in Australia.
Congratulations, Ellis! 😊
Re the model variants.
What is amazing here in Australia with my '23 Ioniq 6; I got the base-model RWD Dynamiq variant. But it came with the same full leather seats, V2L, head-up display, surround view monitoring, smart-park assist, intelligent headlight system, BOSE stereo sound system and blind-spot view monitoring as the top-variants have. 🤗🤔
I wish i know what Hyundai were thinking when they built the Ioniq 5. Ive got a 2020 Classic Ioniq 38kWh and in those conditions we still wouldnt get less than 4m/kWh. We average about 4.6 in winter and 6.7 in summer and fet very upset if we go under 4 in winter. Trouble is were spoiled for any other car now, cant face having to be pleased with 4m/kWh max!
Nice to see you again, sorry not been commenting much...life...👍
Glad you got to the bottom of the traction control problem, interesting info to file away. I never understood why traction control operating actually feels like you have less control than just dealing with the slippery road yourself! Felt that way about ABS when it first came in until i got used to it...yet more proof of what an old fogey i am lol!😅
Oh my goodness, i nearly forgot to say Congratulations to you both!🤗🥰
Daily reminder, high levels of regen DOES NOT increase efficiency, especially not on motorways and even more so with ipedal which uses friction brakes front and rear in addition to regeneration even though you are not touching the brake pedal!
You want level 1 regeneration breaking on I have one and if you take your foot off the accelerator, you’ll just start slowing down which is very inefficient
Congratulations to you both. 😊 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
I have a 3 year old 73 kwh rwd. In the winter I average about 240 miles on a charge. In the summer I can get just over 300. More likely 285. I frequently manage 3.8 milds per kWh. Occasionally 4.
In australia you can add the 'N-line' package to you middle (dynamiq) and top (epiq) specs. Then the car would look the same as the one in the review.
I have recently developed a rattle in the boot of my Ioniq 5. Very annoying and I'm going to bring it back to the dealer as soon as I het a chance. I wonder is this a common issue.
Love the car other than that and its been very easy to live with.
I have the Ultimate version and charging at home on cheap night rate tariff (7p kWh) a full battery costs less than £6
Do you charge to 100% often?
@@Forhesa100% if I know I have a long journey planned. Generally 80-90% max and no lower than 40%, again except after a long journey
I was told to not go lower than 20%
@@Forhesa you can go as low as you dare, I've been home many times below 10%. The thing is not to leave it below 20% for a long period. It's fine if you are going to charge that night.
Worrying story on quite a few levels. Not sure how a manufacturer releases a car to media with the wrong diameter tyre on it. That’s a lawsuit waiting to happen. 😬
Really glad you were okay and no-one got hurt. Would highly recommend advance driver training as you’ll definitely find it helps boost your confidence as well as skill/knowledge level. (And cheaper insurance! 😆)
In a few years the prices for these legacy EV's will adjust to true market value, currently they are priced on hope and greed. I'll wait until then I think.
There needs to be more pressure put on manufacturers to stop these electrical/safety systems glitching like they do.
I've just checked on AutoTrader - a '21 plate, 77Kw with 10,600 on the clock is going for £23
i pedal is the worst for economy - maybe that's the issue. For a start, it engages AWD in that mode, which kills economy also. It can work great in town, but I find that auto regen level 3 is a good compromise. 3.2 - 3.5 m/kwh is easily doable without too much effort if you stick to eco mode, with the odd normal or sport for the short sliproads/overtakes!
06:48 😯 Life can flip in a matter of seconds. Half of the humanity just got broken-hearted.. but still loves you (;
Blissful sunny days ahead 🌞
Remember to use an EV tariff if you get an EV. It can save loads of money when charging overnight.
We've had ours now for 2 weeks but not been on the motorway yet, so will be checking on the traction issue you had. Ours is RWD so might not be affected? Our range has been spot on so far but only used for town driving. Wife constantly sets heated climate/seats/steering wheel from her phone before every journey though so good job for the cheap night time leccy 🙄😃😃🔋⚡️
Congrats Ellis from Australia
Surprised at the low range at 4 deg c. I have rwd 22 model and at that temperature I am getting approx 210-220 miles range.
🙉If you have this in a playlist, don't forget to turn it down for the next video!
We rented an Ioniq 5 while on a trip and had a different issue which turned out to be a common bug. The issue was that the car refused to shift into drive. The first time it happened to my wife while at a charger at 5am. She ended the charge session and attempted to drive back to the hotel so we could go to the airport. It took approximately 10 minutes and multiple tries of turning the car on and off before it finally shifted into drive and she was able to depart. When she got back to the hotel she told me of the incident and how stressful it was seeing as we were one a tight schedule. After our luggage was loaded we attempted to depart for the airport when it happened again! This time it resolved in about 5 minutes but WTF!? It turns out it has to do with the timing of stepping on the brake and putting the car into drive. The supposed fix is to turn the car off, exit the car, lock the door, give it 30 seconds to 1 minute, and try again. This is unacceptable and needs to be fixed immediately by Hyundai. I currently own a Tesla and will not consider buying another brand until they can match the quality and charging experience of Tesla. This experience, along with the non Tesla charging network, makes me understand why EV adoption is way slower than it should be.
I found with a hyundai you have to be pressing the brake as you press the start button to be able to shift into drive
Agree with you that the issue is unacceptable, however I would never spend money funding Elon's SS dreams.
Hyundai Electric car is correct. Hyundai's starting method is most similar to that of internal combustion engine vehicles, making it safer. Tesla's method of starting the engine by simply stepping on the pedal is a common mistake for people driving electric vehicles for the first time.
BS
Simple solution is too not rush the start process ! Modern cars need to wake up all the computers stuff and run self checks .
I had one off these for 3 years and overall it is a good car if you can put up with the multiple bings an bongs. The charging is super fast if you are prepared to pay for it. However, it is a big car which is often missed when looking at in pictures. Not the greatest car to drive though due to the size.,
Congrats, Eilis! That issue with the car sounds scary and potentially dangerous. Glad you had your partner in the car with you. I think if it were me I'd be a bit more critical of something so scary.
I would literally cry if I ever got a 2.8 from my EV!! My average is 4.9 at the moment in the cold weather, it started off at 5.5 but started putting the heating on
Good girl showing the range truth, you did almost 100 miles on 60% of the battery which I calc to be about 140-170 per 100% charge, the dash even backs you up with the 2.8kwh rating, just like the old gasoline days there will be those that have the unicorn that gets 5.0kwh, then we have the overnight charge tariff at home which gets amp'd up 10-12x if you have to use a public charger, currently an EV owner relying on public charging is paying £9 a gallon in real terms, congrats on the engagement and don't go off course in the future, if the car isn't doing what it's claimed to be able to do say so like you have here.
What is the proglem with you Brits?? It is simple . . . Sunday-Monday-Hunday!!!!!!
Iv Just Ordered the Long Range single Motor Model on Mobility 2025 Model
The jumping thing at 50 ish mph is a common fault on the new Ioniq 5. 3/3 of the new cars we have had at work have had it. I think their answer is rubbish, I’ve just checked my tyres and they are all the same.
2.8miles/kWh? Wow, that’s so bad.
Sound seems low. Also congratulations on engagement, hearts breaking all over the elecro world 😊
They changed one tire or all of the tires? It sounds like she said they changed one tire (not plural).
If they changed one tire, ok that's a tire defect. If they changed all of the tires, they delivered a car out of spec to review.
Beautiful car, Best shape
Still wouldn't buy any Korean car, the incessant bonging for everything is like a kid on a game console, no thanks despite how good they make the car. Just stop the u necessary noise.
I see you are driving around Bath, beautiful city.
It’s not an SUV it’s a large hatchback!
Well Hyundai calls it an SUV so. . . .
Small crossover.
Congats Ellis!!!!
Having to turn off traction control, simply is not safe for the average driver - so, no.
Congratulations on your engagement. Hope you didn't settle for the Derek(?) you were annoyed with? Best wishes for a happy life together.
06:08 According to Kia?
So you had the "wrong" tyre size? 🤔 Is this common? Glad nothing catastrophic occurred. Stay safe!
The audio is really low on this video.
why are people congratulating her??
She got engaged
@@matthewtyler-jones8317 she said it in the video? I must have missed it
@@eccentricbeliever7 yup, showed us the ring and everything
@@matthewtyler-jones8317 Oh she was wearing that in a video 2 weeks ago and everything.. thanks I must have skipped ahead
@ yeah this was filmed nearer Christmas time
Audio is so quiet on mobile and I've got my volume cranked
Why is Kia giving stats on Hyundai cars (at 06:04)?!
ua-cam.com/video/JV5FovjwYis/v-deo.htmlsi=wTB3jtOzqiSs_9A0&t=364
Brilliant car ❤
Congratulations!
One lucky fella 💍
for AWD ALL TYRES must be the same Make and type.
Big up the barf massiv 🤘
Digital mirrors though suck as humans have to change their optical distance and doesn't really show you what it may be in reality and wonder whether it will get blocked by dirt/snow/rain/etc. But as other reviewers have said the route planning still sucks even with the CNCC system which my Kona also has, so the hardware is great but the software team still needs to learn which in 2025 really shouldn't be the case not when others can do it really well. You'll have to now do a Ioniq 6 review which has far better efficiency and isn't an SUV.
ALL cars whether ICE or EV can have weird issues that can often be solved by letting the computers sleep. Turn the car off, get out, lock the doors and most minor issues will solve themselves.
Always carry an 8mm and a 10mm spanner and know where your 12v battery is in case you need to go next level and disconnect the negative lead for a few minutes.
Drivers who are not disabled have 2 hands which are there for driving not for waving at UA-cam viewers. Ellis needs to use the car correctly otherwise the motorway problem will be an accident next time.
Namsan is top of the range it has digital mirrors
Terrible range for a top spec car. Also, what kind of tech dept sends out a demonstrator with mis matched tyres!
Congrats on your engagement.
... Spot the mistake.
Nice car
The sound is very low!!!
Never driven an IONIQ 5 before???
ua-cam.com/video/LcNOFe7MBdk/v-deo.htmlsi=3dNnicvpZMzebFTG
Fisheye view is awful
Interesting review, thanks.... However, when are the car manufactures going to realise all these EV's are well over priced by thousands !!
I was looking into getting a electric car and Facebook type sites are full of “I’m richer then you” types, like “oh we are looking at getting a Cupra Born, it be a nice spare runaround next to our Porsche " 🥱
All cars are more expensive now but the there are more affordable EVs coming, just look at the Renault 5!
@@gileshalliwell3591 thanks for the reply
Apples to apples it is inline. Match it to an equal
I have a 2022 model. Called a crossover (correct) NOT an SUV back then. My DVLA registration document says "estate", which is perfectly ok - I find it very similar to the Audi A6 Allroad l had previously. A true SUV needs 4wd, big ground clearance and underbody protection to enable safe use in the wild, not just rough tracks. Less than 10% of what nitwits call SUVs nowadays are worthy of the name. Mostly are "MPVs" or "PCs", which are very practical for families and the aged, and (especially if electric) supply a lot of internal space for a relatively small footprint.
Can I ask, do you have any idea if a wheelchair would fit in the boot without having to drop the back seats down? Thanks.
Right, so in the end, the traction control safety system that is suppose to help you in the event of emergency braking/accelerating situation caused ill effect whilst driving on the motorway in a non-eventful situation, therefore you need to turn it off in order to not experience this but then risk not having traction control safety system help protect you in what appears to be winter for you which is wet roads and even snow. And to remedy this is a simple case of buying a new set of 4 wheels and tyres.
WOW. Never have I seen such a stupid cause and effect and remedy. But then again I never thought much of Hyundai EV's, they are more bells and whistles than solid product.
Not knowing what you are doing makes for a bad video.
Awful vid, worse i have seen take it down and do it again.
My rear wheel drive gets 2.7m/kwh, which seems a bit sub par.
The 800V number pertains to the battery voltage. The charging speed limit is 350KW, idk where the 280 number comes from.
I've not had any traction control issues. But if your tyre size is reduced, you'll get 10% more range for every inch you drop.
The maximum charging speed the car can do is 280KW on a 350KW charger. So no Ioniq 5 can charge to 350kw, BUT it is the fastest on a 350kw charger
@kevins718 Can you sort the syntax here.
I'm an electrician from the black and white days, I can't understand why a 350KW charger won't supply 350KW charging.
💍💍💍💍💍💍💍💍💍💍👍
Worst car reviewer ever 😂😂
But the rear view mirror is so you can check what the kids are up to in the back seats! Now you have to turn round to look... that's not good. And Hyundai delivered you a car with a dodgy tyre? That's not a good advertisement for their top of the line model.
I bet Hyundai were thrilled that they gave you a car and you then mispronounced their brand name - especially after they spent millions publicising how to pronounce it....
I mean they also seem to have supplied it with the wrong tyres somehow and made it dangerous to drive on the highway, so they're probably not focussing on pronunciation...
So pretty much all that the traction control in this Hyundai did was to try and kill you (together with your passenger)... And all this because of a slight difference it had in the presumed size of the tyre? The future of so called Smart Cars looks very dark to me...
Bit disappointing regarding range, for that sort of money I would have expected 400 to 500 miles, 4 to 5 miles per kW.
My 17 year old Mercedes EClass diesel does 650 miles at highway speeds. Never have to worry about range. I just set the sat nav to my destination and go. Can you imagine that. Drive and arrive, without all that EV hassle in the middle.
But can you drive for 2p a mile. If you do mostly shorter journeys and charge at home you can just set the satnav and go and never have to visit a filling station. I know, we don't always charge at home if we do longer journeys but most people stop for comfort breaks, coffee, lunch, etc. and don't drive 650 miles without stopping. If you always charge when you are stopping anyway, it's just as easy. The only real issue is the cost of charging at public chargers but, if it's only occasionally, you still benefit from cheaper driving overall.
1. No one drives 650 miles without a significant break.
2. Co2 emissions have to be tackled urgently.
You're either an anti science climate change denier, or couldn't care less about the environment and everything living in it
A recent pier reviewed report in nature says that the AMOC has remained unaffected for 60 years, which doesn't fit in with global warming theory ? Obviously even the experts are doubting the effect of a trace gas of only 422 parts per million in the atmosphere now ? To tow a 4 berth fixed bed 7.5 metre caravan 350 miles, to the highlands of Scotland, which i do regularly, you need a solo range of 650 miles. I have got a life and the car to do it and it isn't an EV as my long distance car, that can't and would battery degrade and devalue like a stone, because nobody wants them now like my other car an EV has.
As for my personal perception. I have been on the earth 66 years. In the UK, from my memory, the hottest, longest summer was 1976. That was nearly half a century ago. We could do with some global warming in the NE of England and Scotland, it is bitter, every year still ? Even worse now Labour has removed our winter fuel allowance.
I also have an EV, i was an early adopter. It is only used, tethered to it's octopus go home charger and only used by the wife as a shopping trolley now. The battery has degraded by 42% after only 41 k miles. Never again. On a run, we take the 17 year old diesel E Class Merc. It does 51 mpg at highway speeds, costing 15 p per mile. An EV using rapid chargers costs 67p per kwhr ( Tesla ) , 79 p per kwhr ( gridserve ) and 85 p per kwhr ( instavolt ) others are similar price, with a typical cost per mile of 25 p. 10 p per mile more than my diesel. I wouldn't buy an EV ever again. Remember good products are sold on features, bad products are sold on price, they are discounting and pre registering new EV's just to try and sell them but they are failing, even at give away prices. EV's are dead in the private market, nobody wants them.
ROFL... Classic "I don't know enough to know i don't know enough" social media expert comment about climate issues.
What’s wrong with your camera I had to turn off the video I felt sick!!
I had the same issue in an Audi Q7 this week. Had a puncture and the car had a spare wheel. Turns out the spare was 22” when the existing one was 21”. Got to 30mph and traction light came on. Soon cleared as the car learnt that it was ok.
Now had the punctured tyre replaced and all is well again.