Building Pull-Down Loft Stairs at the Off Grid Cabin
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- Опубліковано 4 бер 2019
- Building loft stairs using hinges at the Off Grid Cabin. These stairs raise and lower in the 'pull-down' method using a counter-balance. Better than folding or foldable stairs or a simple ladder, can be used also for attic access.
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![[woodworking] Folding staircase for loft room](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/msQBw_ePoYc/mqdefault.jpg)
![[woodworking] Folding staircase for loft room](/img/tr.png)
READ THIS: By far the most asked question I get on this video is where I got those hinges from. They were custom designed/built by a local fabricator I call The Wizard. You can send him a message and ask what he charges to make you some. His youtube channel is here: ua-cam.com/channels/x9wVQiKYWBGuNjxslh3QEA.html and his Facebook page is here: facebook.com/Queensborough.machineshop
You could brace this stairs on the backside with some of those two-by-fours that you've already cut. Even if you decide to use two by twelves you could do that for extra stability. You should stop worrying about what others think of your projects if they don't turn out perfect. It's a learning process for anyone and you're doing more than 99% of the people out there. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for not pretending you know everything. So many people post vids and think they are experts.
Watching this video made me see that I am not alone in my approach to carpentry......keep up the great work
Neat looking set of stairs. The first set I ever made I ended up ripping them all apart and using 2x12’s 🤷♀️ Sometimes you win - sometimes you learn. I learned lol
I just realized I keep giving you all these ideas and this was two months ago Ikea trying to help you out and now you're tearing out the stairs and starting over LOL so I hope my messages are not bothersome a friend for 30 years and I love to give people the right idea or at least what I think is a good idea I've seen your newest ones with the quads but I just recently started watching your cabin build
Hey man it happens all the time and I do it myself all time. No worries.
Man, that’s starting to come together nicely. A real luxury to have material to play with for templates, patterns, and layouts! I did carpenter work(mostly trim) for 40 years and your framing lumber and tongue and groove look really nice! Clear material with tight knots. I’ve also ran a lot of tongue and groove throughout the years. After a good cull you were lucky to get about 75 percent. You had to wonder if they thought you were making rocking chairs! Will be nice to see what you choose for stringers and treads. I’m sure it will be something else! Don’t know what you can get north of the border in regards to American craft beers, but at end of stairway project , you should kick back, relax, and have a Zombie Dust, Hopslam, or something from Surly or Fulton. Been fun! I’ll keep watching!
Thanks for the comments, Glenn. Like everything else I do here, I muddle through things and learn as I go. I believe a beer was had.
Listen too Mama. Stair! they are tuff for first timer, you did alright. Good video. Cheers
Hi Russell, I am a long time viewer and I have watched this vid. Yes you need to rebuild these stairs for safety sake. Your stringers need to be of bigger dimensions for sure and your actual steps need to be wider. Use Pythagoras theorem to figure out, there's a formula to figure out the rise and the run etc. As for your counterweight, fill the stove pipe with concrete, and before it cures put an eye bolt with an 6 or 8 inch shafts into the concrete, and you will have an attachment point for your steel cable. You have an awesome property there my friend. ..keep up the enjoyable content.
I’m glad you are going with the wider lumber.....safer by far. Great video! Glad you posted this one 👍🤠
Thanks Rick!
I love the building process ! Cant wait for the next video to see what you are doing !
Thanks Karen!
😆 Love the easy going attitude and willingness to critique one's own work. Raspberry Rock is a cool name; I'm new to the channel, looking forward to exploring more. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and being honest!
Absolutely love this bloke attitude 👍👍
Thanks!
Your cabin is looking great! Kudos to you for posting the problem-solving videos. 😎
Thanks Kim!
You rock, Kim
Good job looks functional very creative
Good job Russ. They are light so if you do it again with heavier wood a pully system may be helpful. But as I say, you are a good teacher.
Wonderful! Thank you for the video!
The steps look good....You did a good job....Cabin lookin better and better......T.Gunz.......
Thanks Tommy.
Great job. Beautiful!!
love that saw , i have the same one awesome tool !
I see you are back to making your great videos. I like the part in the beginning where you said ( 1 side done, but not quite done). Funny like always.
Russell, My buddy and I were also going to build cantilevered stairs in our cabin many years ago. I had some experience building several wooden stairs and a cantilevered ramp into my shed to drive the garden tractor. I'm guessing that ramp was half or less the weight of your stairs, especially after you've upgraded the stringers to a larger size. I used two old lead boat anchors(cylinders) to lift my ramp, and it still was a fairly heavy lift by hand. That tube filled with rocks may be close to what my two anchors weighed. Flat steel plates hidden in the wall between studs can work well as a counterbalance weight, use 1/8" or larger steel rope(cable) over good steel pulleys. OR, take a hard look at where you might relocate the stairs and make them more permanent(what we did). Our original cabin was only 20' x 24', and we put our large firewood box under the stairs. We never regretted scrapping the cantilevered stairs. Sorry for long post, it just hit close to home.
GT there is nowhere in the cabin I could put permanent steps other than where these stairs are right now. If rocks aren't enough then I'll pour a concrete tube. It will work.
Not doubting that at all.
hello Russell.
an idea for your counter weight:
so, tie knots in your rope, where there will be several "in" the stove pipe, a knot at the bottom, come up a few inches, another knot, another few inches, another know...… cap the bottom, then pour the pipe full of concrete.
also, you can sort of loosely coil the rope in the stove pipe for more surface area contact with the concrete.
1 80 pound bag of ready mix should do the trick.
or a 50 pound bag, or whatever you calculate the counter weight should weigh.
anyway, once the concrete sets, the rope can't pull out (because of the knots) and you'll never spill your ballast either.
thanks for posting.
keep up the good work.
Ok, now I see what your doing. That is a cool idea to lift stairs up out of the room when not needed. Because you do not want to obscure the views. I think that 11 steps is too many. Maybe less steps and more of a separation between the steps that you do use will work out better on a new rung. Progressing well my friend
Smart move to re-cut the stringers. 2 x 12s would be my best recommendation. Stairs are a tough project. Your first attempt is good training. You will get this.
I agree more the better strength
Nice. I only got worried when bringing the plywood down. Your skills are improving. i actually like watching your thought process
Thanks Sharon.
Great trap.
Loving it Russ! 👍👍👍
steps look great,and looks like they worked way better then that ladder,hope things are well at the rock.
Thanks Bundy!
Awesome video my friend 👍🏾
Next set build the spiral double helix. Looks nice, compact, everyone will ask about them. I found this video bc i searched hide away staircase for my shop. How u did is what im gonna do. The only difference im not cutting stringes, im keeping sides as is and nailing the step on the inside with support blocks underneath each side. Anway good video thanks for sharing.
Great looking nice,you do good job.
I like em'. I don't understand how you really built it but it looks great!
Please try a ship ladder. Much stronger and safer my friend. Love your show.
I could never figure out stairs. You seem to have it figured out quite nicely.
Took forever, lemme tell ya.
Russell you're stringers need to be wider. And go with a. Center support. A 3rd stringer. Also go with full width one piece steps. And yes most deffinately add a handrail. U do get a bit drunk.
Stay safe in the woods
Thinking about replacing them completely with an alternating step design.
This is great, I am going to do this in my tiny house.
Cool staircase! Should have used 2x12 for stringers. Need at least 5" of uncut wood for support. One big fat woman jumping on that will crack the stringers.
I did plan for 2x12's, but the Wizard made them for 2x8's instead.
nice one good job
Another method would be to find some of those old cast iron Victorian window sash counterweights. If you have friends doing a reno, you could get them for free! They are generally 18" long by 2" wide and 12 pounds each. Also a well worked out pulley system would lessen the weight needed.
great video Russ. just stiffen the stairs up by sistering a 2x4 under the stringers and perhaps a diagonal cross brace. this should make them stronger until you redo them. better get the a/c ready looks like a heat wave at the cabin, only minus 5 . best wishes to you and city girl. and the doggies too.
Jim, for some reason your comment went into the spam folder, so I dug it out. Not sure why, seems like a perfectly normal comment. Anyway, thanks. The 2x4 sisterboard is not a bad idea.
Good job.
For the counterweight in the stove pipe, maybe put some short pieces of rebar through the top in an X formation and rope onto that? Also don't just tie a simple not onto it, but do a proper knot onto a (good quality) carabiner and hook that onto the X rebar. You don't want the knot to become undone, or the rope to fray due to friction and have the whole stairs come down on your head when the counterweight disengages. :-D
It's a good idea and I thought of that myself, except I decided to go with a winch! Going to mount the winch on the ceiling and put the remote switch somewhere on the wall.
Looks good.
Beauty in low temperatures is beauty ❄️
Digging the disco ball
Where did you get the hinges and what are they called specifically?
same q
Bump
Specifically, they're called Hinges. And he got them here...
ua-cam.com/video/E47d9omu5VE/v-deo.html
Russell also posted a compilation of the catwalk/stairs clip...
a simple solution is to double the thickness of the supports, it s hazardous as it is.
don t take chances alone in the woods so far.
otherwise, they look cool, and the swinging concept with a weight is great.
good show Russ!!!
If I didn't take chances I'd be sitting in a bathtub in the city!
@@RaspberryRockOffGridCabin ha, ha!!! good one!
Put a stringer in the center and strap steel on the back of each stringer?
Ah Russ ..The stove pipe weight just run the rope in the middle,all the way thew the bottom of the cap you make.👍great start to the stairs.....
Leave them, they are good, just stiff them with OSB board from upstairs on the back.
at least that, the stairs are so wrong I don't really know where to begin. I am very worried they may crack at the the back of the tread/riser intersection. Minimum code width from that apex to the back of the stringer is 3.5".
Great vid
Nice one . Thx
Nice job, even though they are a little wobbly! Would a 3rd stringer going up the middle, beef them up? Of course that would be more weight - everything is s trade off. I suck at cutting stair stringers. I have to build stairs going down into my cellar this year, so you gave me some good ideas; it sucks going up and down a stepladder to get into the cellar! Was that a 3/4 inch sheet of plywood you moved down from the loft? Gosh those are heavy! The stove pipe looks good for the counter weight. On the top you could drill 4 holes and put 2 bolts thru at right angles, then attach the rope to the bolts where they cross. Maybe do the same thing on the bottom, with a piece of wood on top of the bolts, so the weight of the rocks is not on the bottom cap? I'm thinking routing the rope and pulleys is going to be the hard part. -- Dave
Nice work
Looks like hard work😯
You can rip a two by four from the back side of your stringer to your 90 cut whatever that measurement is put both of them on the inside and that will double the strength that sponginess you will lose at least some of it we even strong back 2 buy 12 stringers. For some of that hasn't done stairs they actually came out okay stairs are not simple for anyone who has not been properly taught even after properly taught it's easy to forget where you have to add and what you have to remove but once you have it it's like riding a bicycle you had all the right tools just not the right teacher but you did a great job.
Yes Russ, listen to the BOSS go work on the pine. LOL!!!!!
Use a speed square to measure the angle.at the base of the stringer. Lots of videos on UA-cam on how to use them. I would have considered planing down the 2x8's for a nicer finish on the feet as well as reducing weight. A third stringer will help with the sway too.
Yes you should have used 2 by 12 for the stringers and there should have been a third stringer in the middle.
The reason the treads are not wide enough is because it appears you made them the same width as the run. The treads should have extended beyond the run by about 2 inches.
When you do the handrail there should be less than 4 inches between spindles and the handrail should be about 40" high from the stair.
I haven't been keeping up with your videos lately but looks like you've made a lot of progress on the cabin! I agree, there's a lot of movement in the stair stringers. .....Ouch.
You could to a add a 2x4 to the side of your stair jacks for added support. Normally you measure the rise and run and then divide it into the most steps you an get. A LEGAL set of stairs the rise and run should not exceed 18 inches. for example a 2x12 is 11 1/2 inches and the rise can then be 6 1/2 inches. I like those hinges, where did you get them?
Are the stringers upside-down? It looks like you have more rise than run.
Here in Michigan, the standard is 7-11 or 7 inches of rise and 11 inches of run.
That would allow for deeper steps so you can walk down without needing to step sideways.
Also, I agree about full, uncut stringers - typically 2x12. I prefer to cut or router dadoes into the stringers and slide the treads into the notches and glue and screw them in from the sides. It will make a much sturdier set of stairs than the cut stringers.
I was limited to the length otherwise it hits the wall, so they're very steep. Still haven't decided if I'm going to replace them just yet.
Good work,carry on.
At first glance I thought that you were Nikolaj Coster-Waldau (Jamie Lannister from Game of Thrones). Anyhow, I have the same dilemma with my loft in my cabin in trying to figure out a stair system that is not intrusive. The problem lies with building codes, and that you just can't put together a stair or ladder system that meets your needs, but has to coincide with the rules and guidelines of building. I will have to run this method by our local building inspector to see if it'll meet code.
In the interim, I was also looking at a library ladder/stair rail idea that would allow me to move them off to the side. Good idea though. Thanks for sharing. Cheer!
Anyone know where I can find the attachment hardware used for the top end
Sol mine were custom made by Mr. Wizard.
Nice setup.
Hi - I am looking to build something VERY similar to this for my shed. I have scoured the internet looking for the hinges that you used and can’t find them. Could you tell me where you got yours? Thank you!!
They were custom built by the Wizard: facebook.com/Queensborough.machineshop/
I could use a bit of advice.. I have 6ft i have to climb into a 4ft loft... But heres th catch.. The dog needs to climb the stairs as well. If i use the standard stringer from Lowe's back them in paneling for the illusion for the dog and 2x6 stairs 18" wide.. How much rough weight would i need to counter balance the steps
No idea. I guessed at mine. Kept adding rocks until it balanced out.
I think the steps look great, provided the stringers are strong enough. Not sure why you don't want them to be fixed, there's daylight between the steps so they don't really block light in your interior. They may take up space, but not that much, and you can't fill that space anyway because the stairs have to go there when they're down. They also have a nice craftsman look about them,so they go nicely with your cabin interior. This is all prob moot, as you've replaced them since this Mar 2019 vid was published. It's an interesting project to watch, regardless of what the final result may be. Thanks for the vid.
They take up a lot of space when they're down and a PITA to get around.
This is the first of your videos I've watched! I have to say I thoroughly enjoyed it! Not only was it constructive (no pun intended), but I can totally relate with doing things alone. I really like that honesty with which you work as well. So often, all we see is the last attempt and don't realize all that has gone on previously: aka mistakes! I have only made one small set of stairs for a deck I built. I have a dream of building a cabin with a loft so this video is very interesting. I have one question though, why didn't you start the stair cuts at the top and work your way down? Wouldn't it have been better to have been off a bit on the bottom? Ultimately you made it work and that's really all that matters!! PS. I haven't watched the whole thing yet so if I referenced something that changed, my apologies!
nice job russanater!!
😂😂😂 cant wait to see the next step
You could use a gas automotive strut to hold it up. Same as a suburban tailgate which are very heavy.
Russell, did you ever consider a Jefferson staircase, it makes climbing a steep staircase more comfortable.
Thanks for that. That's what I was sort of describing in what I wanted, I just didn't know the name.
Hi Russel good luck with your news stairs. How are the new freezer mugs?Have a recipe for you.
They look awesome. -5 “not that cold”. Oh how I laughed.
Thanks, Phil. Really looking forward to spring here.
Where did you get the upper brackets? looks great
The Wizard built them for me! As well as the hinges.
Just found you tonight and subscribed - this is a brill channel and you're so brilliant and funny! Is there an updated one with your new stairs or did you keep this stairs?
I kept the stairs! They've been great. Here watch my favourite video: ua-cam.com/video/oXDfqOeTisQ/v-deo.html
Hey, Russell, Are those stringers upside-down? The way they're set makes them steeper. The wider part should be the flat step and the shorter part should be the riser (that goes up from step to step). I don't know, but that might be the problem. Of course, the stairs would come out farther into the first floor and may not reach the upstairs landing. Also maybe the stringer may be too narrow a piece of lumber to protect the cut-out parts from breaking. 2" X 10" or 2" X 12" stringers may help or you could "sister" in a 2" piece for each stringer and back of each step, but it wouldn't be as strong.
I've worked on steps before, but it's been a long time and I was mainly a "holder of tools and a helper of stabilizing, but I also learned a lot from watching and "listening" (to the obscenities). If the stringers are upside-down, you may have to add another step or landing at the bottom and they would extend out farther, but it might be an option. Lots of suggestions below, so I know you'll find the answer you're looking for. Good luck! :0) Donna B.
I think I explained at 4:00 but I am limited by their length.
They look good but the strength is gone as the beams are sawed in. Little blocks on the inside to put the steps on or metal corner peaces would not have looked good but the strenth would have been so much more. I have to say I LOVE that you kept the struggle to get it right in the video. That is so valuable to watch. Thank you for the video
can you say what the hinges are at the top of the stairs and where did you get them? Thanks.
Great first try on the stairs
If you have one around go to a home depot or lowes or any place just get PVC pipe and caps that thread on and follow with concrete or sand and you can put an eye bolt with a but and washer on through the cap and hook your wire or rope to it that's what I did for a heavy door on barn floor and it works great
Great idea, thanks. I will consider it.
Hey man. Been building houses for 15 years. I’d be really worried about those stringers snapping. If I was you I’d cut the treads flush with the stringers and run another full board on either side. Plus add an X brace to the bottom to keep it sturdy.
Hi Brock, will definitely be changing them. Might talk about it tonight during live stream.
You can also build a fence around your cabin and living area,when weather is getting better to save your family and dogs from wild animals,just a suggestion.
Hi. New to your channel. Really enjoying! Keep up the great work. 👍
Thanks Cindy. And welcome!
@@RaspberryRockOffGridCabin 😀
Daughter in a couple of 2x4 on the inside back of the risers. There was too much flex as you were going up. The risers as they stand would eventually fail.
Where can I find those hinged stringer connectors? What are they called? Cool idea, thanks for sharing.
Custom made by The Wizard.
@@RaspberryRockOffGridCabin I'd be off to see the Wizard... if I only knew where... Does the Wizard have a shop, or just a friend of yours doing you a favor? thanks!
@@greglevandoski2983 He has a shop in Queensborough Ontario. Check out my About section for his address. Or internet search for "Pronk Canada Inc- Queensborough Machine Shop"
@@RaspberryRockOffGridCabin Thanks!
They should be flipped and bolted to the underside of the catwalk, that would give you more control over the rise.
Think of it more as a ladder than stairs.
Don't cut the stringers, mount the steps between them.
Let them into the stringers or use cleats.
2 or 3 cross bolts might be a good idea (all thread).
Add safety hand rail too on both sides of stairs.
There will only be rails on one side. Both sides would make it too narrow.
Where did you get the hinges and what are they called?
Custom made by the Wizard.
That background music sounds like a fax machine from 1985.
Where do you buy the hinge brackets for the stairs?
Peter it was custom made by the Wizard: ua-cam.com/channels/x9wVQiKYWBGuNjxslh3QEA.html
if 2 people walked in it the stringers would snap
Where did you get the hardware for the brace at the top made of metal?
It was custom made by the Wizard! ua-cam.com/channels/x9wVQiKYWBGuNjxslh3QEA.html
Good project Russ, been enjoying this one. Long been a fan of the idea of stairs that lift out of the way freeing up space. On steep stairs been on a few of them and the step cutouts make coming down them far easier in my experience, I was going to mention it but you got there first, millers stairs is the term we use here, often found in windmills.
I know they look and feel a bit shakey at the moment but I like the fact they look quite trim or fine, struggling for the right term lol. Wondering if maybe you can source some U section steel channel the right width and screw it to the back of the stringers? Would hopefully strengthen and stiffen it, at the very least hold it all together should a stinger snap. Painted to match the catwalk metal it would tie the thing together visually.
Thinking we deserve a beer now!!! LOL.
Thanks for the comments, Fuzie. Just learned those type of stairs are also called Jefferson stairs. Good to know.
Where did you get the stair bracket and hinge system?
Custom made by the Wizard.
PLEASE tell us where you purchased the hinge hardware
Custom made by the Wizard (fabricator)
@@RaspberryRockOffGridCabin I would like to have the wizards contact information and perhaps he would like to make another set. Let him know I think there are many people who are UA-camrs that would like to buy those hinges.
@:48 What hinge is this and where can I buy it?
Quick and easy cross bracing will reduce the sway until you can redo the stairs Russ without adding too much weight (guess how I know 😂🤣😂🤣)
Where did you find the hinges?
Custom made by the Wizard!