Then again, I was out in a field where there was no electricity so I used the exhaust from my truck to heat the pipe in order to flare it. Got to get creative when you’re in a pinch.
Just surfing youtube and this got my attention. Im retired AWS inspector and figured I would put my 2cents in . We have been welding PVC for many years. In the petroleum industry it is done by holding the two ends against a hot flat plate and bringing them to a melting point and quickly joining them together. There is a procedure and certification process for this weld.
Thanks Bobby, petroleum products probably act as a solvent for PVC adhesives, so I can only imagine the problems that you had. And each join would be pressure tested? Thanks for the 2cents:)
This weld procedure and application is only used in areas of non corrosive no heat, and not under certain pressures. The testing of these welds is the same as steel. The tensile strength is as good as some steels, depending on the wall thickness of the PVC. The most dangerous aspect of Polyvinyl chloride is the fumes from ignition and burning. Deadly! I haven't been in the loop for many years but I would imagine that joining PVC has come a long way. The use and application of joining materials is being done by high frequency sound these days' When I became a welder in the 60s there were no rules and guidelines for testing. After the Alaskan oil pipeline had so many problems. Getting welders certified and tested was a major problem. Documentation and inspection were non existent. The American Welding Society was created to be the worlds leading inspection and testing of all welding procedures. Thw AWS Inspector writes procedures and certifies all welders all over the world and has become the standard for every Country. Sorry, I have climb down off my box! LOL
Very interesting, and I guessed that's what AWS stood for. I'm sure you must be super proud to have been a pioneer in the field of PVC welding. Great experience! Guess you might have a few tips for all of us and thanks for the warning about the fumes:)
I have been doing this for many years, it works great, I keep a coffee can with cold water and a rag to cool down the PVC much faster when doing a lot of pipe for bigger jobs, thanks for posting this to help others to try out...........
I've had a heatgun for years for various projects. Never have i thought about doing this with all the busted pipes i have delt with over the years. Fabulous idea!
I made a tool for this years ago by turning a piece of wood to a stepped cone with stages the outside diameter of 1/2 to 3 inch to let me flare all the various diameter of the pipe I use. You can even make an adapter to couple the pipe to the next larger diameter. You can't stretch it much farther than that without making it too thin.
Hey Dave=neat trick and i am glad to have seen it. Simple but needs to be shown to someone like me who would have never thought of it. Thanks for the show!!
I have done this a million times, well, perhaps a dozen or two! Anyway, most heat guns come with an wide attachment, about two inches or so, that spreads the heat. Good for this, or making a quicker job of removing paint or stripping wall paper, drying the dog etc. Great vid!
thanks for watching Monte Christo, my heat gun is ancient; also used it a lot for stripping enamel paints off old doors etc. A wide attachment sounds like a good idea, never seen one though
Thanks Dave you just saved me a delayed trip. I was able to do this with an ABS plastic pipe I had during an emergency drain repair. I ran a test first and found that pushing the pipe into an existing connector worked great.
I love what I learn on you tube. Considering I have a nice Rigid brand swaging tool for copper pipe to do the same thing it is a wonder I had never thought of doing swaging on PVC pipe using heat application. Many thanks for your video as it is much appreciated.
What a GREAT guy. Thank you so much for that info. I want to make PVC pipe furniture, but I'm now retired and living in The Philippines. No one sells those kinds of connecting parts here. I can see that some of the work could be done with heat and a form to bend around. If you get inspired to make a table or chair I'd like to see your method.. sn
Recently I had to connect some plastic tubing to a threaded connector on an international semi tractor.it would not push on.I tried a heat gun,fire,and boiling water. Finally I tried boiling oil and that finally worked.
thanks for the boiling oil tip john, I would have thought that boiling water would have worked, maybe if you added some washing up liquid soap. Worked for me when I installed an irrigation system in the garden
I do this same procedure but use a customized wood dowel which has a 4 inch leading end that precisely fits the inside diameter of the pipe to be flared and tapers out to the new female coupling diameter. This precisely centers the taper and prevents uneven thinning that you can see on this video. Other than that i give thumbs up to this video
Dave nice job but you only did half the job ! If you make the expansion 3” long then cut it off... glue inside half way push one pipe in halfway... turn glue other half push in other pipe. This way you have smooth no catching inside as would be with normal coupler. 😎 ( glad to see there are some very polite people still around 🙏🏻🍀)
Thanks for the comment Richard, yes i know what you mean. You're making a 3" long connector and if both pipe ends are smooth, they'll meet in the middle perfectly and as you say, no catching inside. Great tip:)
When I was a kid around 20 years back,the plumber used to pour adhesive in one side of the pipe and light it with fire and as soon as it's soft enough,he used to shove in another pipe.worked like a charm.
Time is money fittings take 30 seconds to a minute to install. Now being in the field far from a store and short a fitting then again time is money so this makes sense sometimes.
Great idea!I've already got a heat gun I use for shrink tubing and some 4" pvc.I work with PVC at work all the time,as I am an electrician,but hadn't thought of that.aero ports can be quite expensive and i can use that money on my system elsewhere. Thanks!
Very valuable technique. I use PVC for many DIY projects and this will be very handy in my next one especially since it creates a 'Slip-Fit' allowing easy assy/disassy of structures. Thanks bunches for showing us this.....
I already knew this trick and haven't purchased a connector for years but would like to mention that I taper the male section of the PVC making it easier to get started when the female end starts to soften.
Also keep a wet rag or paper towel nearby to cool the bell after you get the desired fit; it will save you minutes of time instead of holding it until it cools.
In the USA there is almost always a store open somewhere that will have a connector available. But maybe in a special situation of some type this may be useful to do.
Thanks zonehb, our stores are open until 7pm and Sundays until 12noon. The problem is that they're 20 miles away and there have been times in winter when we're snowed in and the roads are iced up. So, special situation as you say:)
Never tried with boiling water, but I've done it with the flame from burning old cement bags. Cordless drill is very innovative, well done for the idea
This may be a good way to remove a pipe from a fitting as well. I currently have a 1" pvc pipe piece cemented inside a 1" pvc tee fitting that if I can remove it, I can just cement my new 1" pvc pipe into it. I'll keep this in mind. I did see a video where they removed a pipe piece 3 different ways. The first was by cutting 4 slots in the inner pipe and then trying to chisel it out with a screw driver. The second was by adding primer to the pipe and lighting it with a torch to soften the material. That worked and the 3rd way and the best way according to the video provider was by heating up a stainless steel pipe just big enough to fit inside the pvc pipe and heating the steel with a torch. Then just work out the pvc pipe.
Thanks for watching Joseph, to be honest I've always had a problem removing pipes once they have been cemented together. I usually end up destroying the whole pipe and fitting. So if it works for you, please let me know:) I've seen the video that you're referring to, by the way.
@@davekennedy52 I decided to get a 1" inside connector from the internet. That was recommended to me from Home Depot and none of my local plumbing suppliers had it in stock. I'm not crazy about using this but it is the simplest fix. I was told it wouldn't cut down too much on the flow and if it does, I'll just have to remove it and do a little more plumbing to get it to work.
The internal commentary I was hearing when watched this was a mess of bloody immature sniggering and lewd catcalls, perhaps a sign that I have yet to grow up fully. Nevertheless, thank you sir, for teaching me something new.
Sir I could have used this last weekend. Mr. Plumer gave me a $3800 estimate to fix a small water leak on my service water line. I’m cheap, decided to challenge myself and fixes it under $25.00 in parts.
I want to add to your instructions. I recommend that you have an extra inch to the male end of the pipe because when you remove it you would noticed that the male piece is shrinked at the end. I usually cut off about an inch where it began to norrows.
I don't know it would work for water but I've been trying to rig a dust collection system for a year using shop vac hoses, Through many trials and errors I've found that by using 2" elec. conduit and wrapping it with duct tape makes a reasonable fit inside a 2" pvc pipe, doing that on both ends of a 4-5" length of conduit enables me to connect pvc or a shop vac hose and pvc, then I wrap the outside of all .
I will have to heat an adaptor just like you show to I can fit a smaller hose adaptor on the end of a 32mm diameter pipe. I believed that the outside diameters like you said in the video are 40 and 32 mm. Those are actually the internal diameters of these solvent weld pipes so you have to add the pipe wall thickness (x2) to have the true outside diameters which ends up not being a standard adaptor size. I could not source such an odd size adaptor so hopefully this method will allow me to push my pipe (36.4 mm outside diameter) into the adaptor which needs to be stretched.
Hope it worked for you Lawrie, sorry I didn't reply to you earlier because I kept on forgetting to go and measure my pipes All my pipes, 32mm, 40mm, and 100mm are all outside measurements. The wall thickness is 2mm. So for example, a 40mm pipe can fit into a 36mm inside diameter. This is in France by the way:)
Thanks Dave, seems our UK waste plastic pipe size denominations differ to our own UK copper pipe denominations where for example copper pipe designated 15mm, 22mm and 28mm are the outside diameters. Buying many so called 32mm or 40mm plastic waste pipes in the the past has never been an issue as the elbow and straight connectors purchased at same time fitted without issue and didn't need to measure the internal or external diameters. Your French pipes with external 32/40 mm diameter would have made my task in trying to find an adaptor to fit a slightly smaller size plastic flat hose (for a pump) easier. The adaptor I used was for a vacuum cleaner but of different plastic material to that of the solvent weld/pvc waste piping you heated in your video. It did stretch a little under heat but I didn't want to stress it too much so finished off filing and sanding out the inner diameter a little more until it would take the 32mm pipe which was glued in. I should finally add that I did practise your method on a piece of plastic waste pipe beforehand which worked well and gave me the confidence to try it out on the vacuum adaptor. Thanks for sharing your technique with all on UA-cam.
7:17 to say: "heat up one side until soft, then insert other side into heated part" You should do a "Part 2" where you take 10:00 to show us how to cool it down by running cold water over it.
Always use a the primer cleaner before you glue , the primer cleans the pvc pipe from oil thats used in the manufacturing process , as I found out the hard way when installing a toilet pipe.
Hi Earthling, so pleased to read your comment, a few people have expressed doubts about the strength of the join, and now we all know its fine. My oldest one is 10 years.
Nice! Especially in a bind, as you say. I can see where this could be useful if you need some series low angle bends, as well, to snake around something in a gentle fashion. Cool vid., will add to my "tool box". Cheers, or the South African equivalent (I'm assuming by the accent, sorry if wrong). ;-)
Thank you Mika, yes the cloth and cold water definitely works faster. The PVC pipe that I have is definitely 100mm outside diameter, its also printed with 100mm on the side, maybe its a Europe dimension. I live in France
@@davekennedy52 ah oki ici a l'ile Maurice c'est 110 mm pour les toilet Petit conseil de plombier, quand tu utilise un blower pour chaufer utilise un bon pair de gang , je me suis archi bruler avec sa
Oh a counter reply! The game is on! You made statement condescedingly belittling the OP's effort to help others with a trick he knows for no reward other than probably a few thanks and the pleasure of helping others. There is absolutely no reason for your 'so what' statement other than an attempt to place yourself above others. BTW, this is the Internet, it is broader than using local coloquialisms such as "twat" that has no impact on me at all, British I presume, which explains the arrogance, you should dig into your bag for more globallly broader terms of offense such as cunt. Cunt.
thanks George, all pipes come with both male and female sides. The problem arises if you have a breakage half way along the pipe. and no coupling for the repair!:)
I know, I just wanted to say that on a new pipe people can find how it looks. I always use this method - never the connector. Of course it is better to use a heat gun...
Actually, not sure when a non-pressure emergency would occur. For water pressure situations, perhaps, in the long, run - using the proper glued connectors should always be used. [In the real world - short cuts will bring you down.]
Thanks for the comment Dan, these are all evacuation pipes, so no pressure. In 2011 we had -15degrees C for 2 weeks. Slowly the ice built up in the pipes and then blocked completely and expanded and broke the pipes in multiple place including the proper connectors. Couldn't get to shops because of snow and ice so I used this method. Now I do it all the time:)
Hi tontaiameriki, well spotted, its the accent which gives us away, I think we've spread throughout the world. I live in France and my daughter in NYC.
Thank you for the video. I don't have a hot air gun and sometimes work in a location without electricity. I wonder if it might be possible to use a butane torch?
You're welcome Dave! Look at "preceptor's" comment below. He used the exhaust from his truck to soften the PVC. I have used old cement bags and newspaper to make a fire and held the pipe over it. You have to keep rotating it. Butane torch is too much heat and the PVC will scorch.
@@davekennedy52 actually I’m a electrician 20yrs now and I’ve always used a butane torch to make bends and off sets in pvc all the time. Don’t get me wrong u will torch it fast if u get too close. Key is to keep proper distance with the torch about 3-5 in away from tip of flame and constantly rotate. It’s way faster then using are green lee warmer to bend pvc and faster than using the heat gun too.
@@pate669 Must admit my attempts with a butane torch were a disaster. Kept on scorching the pipe! I think I must have been too close. Thanks for your advice:)
The downsides of doing it this way are not only will you end up with an undesirable taper on BOTH ends of the connection, but you might also cause a "Crease" in the male-end which could bypass (Leak) later on. One way to solve this is what many service people in the irrigation industry use, which is an assortment of 7in. hardwood dowels with the last 2-inches lathed (Turned) down to the O.D. of the various pipe-sizes with a lead-in-chamfer at the end, this and a propane torch with a flame spreader attachment allows you to form a Bell while in the field without causing a taper on EITHER end of the pipe.
Thanks for the comment Josh, not sure what you mean by a taper on both ends.Unless you're talking about a slight flaring of the leading edge on the female part, which would be eliminated by a "lead in chamfer"on the tool that you're suggesting The male part that I use is just a random off cut piece of pipe, only used to flare the female section. PVC softens at around 70 degrees C, and the male part inside never gets warm enough to soften so I don't think there's the danger of creasing. Nice idea with the hardwood dowels:)
To: davekennedy52, The taper I was referring to can be caused by the male end becoming heated enough to compress the diameter when inserting it to form the Bell, this compression can result in an inward-buckling or "Crease" which could become problematic later on, as long as the male end never becomes hot enough to distort you're in good shape... Thanks for the video!
I Dunno...I'm in a hurry and need the quicker Glue/Connector It would take a longggg time to do a job BUT otherwise its a nice bell on one end, useful for a limited amount of plumbing.
it reduces the size of the inner pipe, it must to be done faster with a pipe of probe in and then insert the definitive cold and fast with glue, this is made all the time by plumbers with a torch and the conexion is better than using coples.
thanks Kefren, the inner pipe dimension would stay the same, it's the female part that gets flared. I would be hesitant to use a torch although I know that some people do. PVC softens around 70 degrees Centigrade so not a lot of heat is required
Fair enough,I'm an LLC plumber and all I'm saying is this does not meet code.as a temporary fix,sure but any inspector would shut this right down.i plumb new houses and wineries full time and would never do this.just sayin
As a qualified and full time plumber I'm sure you would never need to do this, you probably have a full supply of components> Sorry Robert, it probably grates your nerves to see something thats not according to the plumbers code:)
He DID mention that this is a suitable procedure for a situation where the correct repair items are not readily available. NOT everyone lives within 5 minutes of a 7 days a week supply store, I certainly don't. IT WORKS DAMMIT!
Then again, I was out in a field where there was no electricity so I used the exhaust from my truck to heat the pipe in order to flare it. Got to get creative when you’re in a pinch.
Thats brilliant! Best I've heard:)
Nice.
Thanks for watching Taka!
Just surfing youtube and this got my attention. Im retired AWS inspector and figured I would put my 2cents in . We have been welding PVC for many years. In the petroleum industry it is done by holding the two ends against a hot flat plate and bringing them to a melting point and quickly joining them together. There is a procedure and certification process for this weld.
Thanks Bobby, petroleum products probably act as a solvent for PVC adhesives, so I can only imagine the problems that you had. And each join would be pressure tested? Thanks for the 2cents:)
This weld procedure and application is only used in areas of non corrosive no heat, and not under certain pressures. The testing of these welds is the same as steel. The tensile strength is as good as some steels, depending on the wall thickness of the PVC. The most dangerous aspect of Polyvinyl chloride is the fumes from ignition and burning. Deadly!
I haven't been in the loop for many years but I would imagine that joining PVC has come a long way. The use and application of joining materials is being done by high frequency sound these days'
When I became a welder in the 60s there were no rules and guidelines for testing. After the Alaskan oil pipeline had so many problems. Getting welders certified and tested was a major problem. Documentation and inspection were non existent. The American Welding Society was created to be the worlds leading inspection and testing of all welding procedures. Thw AWS Inspector writes procedures and certifies all welders all over the world and has become the standard for every Country. Sorry, I have climb down off my box! LOL
Very interesting, and I guessed that's what AWS stood for. I'm sure you must be super proud to have been a pioneer in the field of PVC welding. Great experience! Guess you might have a few tips for all of us and thanks for the warning about the fumes:)
I have been doing this for many years, it works great, I keep a coffee can with cold water and a rag to cool down the PVC much faster when doing a lot of pipe for bigger jobs, thanks for posting this to help others to try out...........
Thanks Michael, good advice! After so many comments about cooling the pipes quickly I also now keep a jug nearby
I've had a heatgun for years for various projects. Never have i thought about doing this with all the busted pipes i have delt with over the years. Fabulous idea!
Glad you found it useful DL, thanks for watching!
I made a tool for this years ago by turning a piece of wood to a stepped cone with stages the outside diameter of 1/2 to 3 inch to let me flare all the various diameter of the pipe I use. You can even make an adapter to couple the pipe to the next larger diameter. You can't stretch it much farther than that without making it too thin.
This is one of those videos where after you see it, you think, why the hell didn't I think of that. Great job sir.
Thanks Cowboy, glad you enjoyed it
Hey Dave=neat trick and i am glad to have seen it. Simple but needs to be shown to someone like me who would have never thought of it. Thanks for the show!!
you're welcome Rick, thanks for watching
I have done this a million times, well, perhaps a dozen or two! Anyway, most heat guns come with an wide attachment, about two inches or so, that spreads the heat. Good for this, or making a quicker job of removing paint or stripping wall paper, drying the dog etc. Great vid!
thanks for watching Monte Christo, my heat gun is ancient; also used it a lot for stripping enamel paints off old doors etc. A wide attachment sounds like a good idea, never seen one though
Done this on numerous occasions with 4” electrical conduit when I ran out of couplings when I worked in the Cayman Islands.
Definitely a good trick to know when you're miles away from a hardware shop.
Thanks Dave you just saved me a delayed trip. I was able to do this with an ABS plastic pipe I had during an emergency drain repair. I ran a test first and found that pushing the pipe into an existing connector worked great.
so pleased that you found my video useful!
Thanks I used your idea to stretch a 10 foot section of 4 inch into 40 feet of 1 inch pvc saved a fortune!
Ha! you've just been nominated for the "Most Awesome Plumber of the Month" award
NOOOOOO? ahahhahahahaaaaaaa
You are the MAN!!!
I love what I learn on you tube. Considering I have a nice Rigid brand swaging tool for copper pipe to do the same thing it is a wonder I had never thought of doing swaging on PVC pipe using heat application. Many thanks for your video as it is much appreciated.
You're welcome kdegru, so much useful stuff on UA-cam
kdegru
What a GREAT guy. Thank you so much for that info. I want to make PVC pipe furniture, but I'm now retired and living in The Philippines. No one sells those kinds of connecting parts here. I can see that some of the work could be done with heat and a form to bend around. If you get inspired to make a table or chair I'd like to see your method.. sn
Thanks Dr Stephen, the PVC softens around 80 degrees C, interesting concept you have, I'll let you know if I have any bright ideas
for your furniture, this might interest you ua-cam.com/video/6lGOn2Ms_5w/v-deo.html
Recently I had to connect some plastic tubing to a threaded connector on an international semi tractor.it would not push on.I tried a heat gun,fire,and boiling water. Finally I tried boiling oil and that finally worked.
thanks for the boiling oil tip john, I would have thought that boiling water would have worked, maybe if you added some washing up liquid soap. Worked for me when I installed an irrigation system in the garden
I do this same procedure but use a customized wood dowel which has a 4 inch leading end that precisely fits the inside diameter of the pipe to be flared and tapers out to the new female coupling diameter. This precisely centers the taper and prevents uneven thinning that you can see on this video. Other than that i give thumbs up to this video
Thank you mig m, brilliant idea and probably a lot faster and more accurate
Dave nice job but you only did half the job !
If you make the expansion 3” long then cut it off... glue inside half way push one pipe in halfway... turn glue other half push in other pipe.
This way you have smooth no catching inside as would be with normal coupler. 😎
( glad to see there are some very polite people still around 🙏🏻🍀)
Thanks for the comment Richard, yes i know what you mean. You're making a 3" long connector and if both pipe ends are smooth, they'll meet in the middle perfectly and as you say, no catching inside. Great tip:)
When I was a kid around 20 years back,the plumber used to pour adhesive in one side of the pipe and light it with fire and as soon as it's soft enough,he used to shove in another pipe.worked like a charm.
Love hearing stories like this, thanks Vishwanath, skills from long ago are sadly being forgotten.
Time is money fittings take 30 seconds to a minute to install. Now being in the field far from a store and short a fitting then again time is money so this makes sense sometimes.
I agree Nicholas, I only carry a limited stock of spares and my troubles have a habit of appearing over a weekend
Great idea!I've already got a heat gun I use for shrink tubing and some 4" pvc.I work with PVC at work all the time,as I am an electrician,but hadn't thought of that.aero ports can be quite expensive and i can use that money on my system elsewhere. Thanks!
Thanks for watching Wesley and I'm pleased you found it useful. I love shrink tubing it's strangely satisfying to use
Very valuable technique. I use PVC for many DIY projects and this will be very handy in my next one especially since it creates a 'Slip-Fit' allowing easy assy/disassy of structures.
Thanks bunches for showing us this.....
Thanks RJinNH, glad you found it useful
I already knew this trick and haven't purchased a connector for years but would like to mention that I taper the male section of the PVC making it easier to get started when the female end starts to soften.
Great tip, thanks Bob, I'll give it a try
Also keep a wet rag or paper towel nearby to cool the bell after you get the desired fit; it will save you minutes of time instead of holding it until it cools.
nice tip! thanks for watching
davekennedy52 n
I just use old newspaper, burning it and rounding to that PVC to make it hot.
THIS HAS HELPED ME GET OUT OF A PINCH ON MANY AN OCCASION.
Have done this before, might be more fun with thick wall tubing.
thanks for watching John, I also have a video on bending PVC tubing to 90 degrees which might interest you
In the USA there is almost always a store open somewhere that will have a connector available. But maybe in a special situation of some type this may be useful to do.
Thanks zonehb, our stores are open until 7pm and Sundays until 12noon. The problem is that they're 20 miles away and there have been times in winter when we're snowed in and the roads are iced up. So, special situation as you say:)
Brilliant video. I have also done this with a pot boiling water, no electricity required. Cordless drill to spin mandrel.
Never tried with boiling water, but I've done it with the flame from burning old cement bags. Cordless drill is very innovative, well done for the idea
ive often wondered why hardware stores are not open on weekends , when people need them the most.
In my house. things break on Sundays
This may be a good way to remove a pipe from a fitting as well. I currently have a 1" pvc pipe piece cemented inside a 1" pvc tee fitting that if I can remove it, I can just cement my new 1" pvc pipe into it. I'll keep this in mind. I did see a video where they removed a pipe piece 3 different ways. The first was by cutting 4 slots in the inner pipe and then trying to chisel it out with a screw driver. The second was by adding primer to the pipe and lighting it with a torch to soften the material. That worked and the 3rd way and the best way according to the video provider was by heating up a stainless steel pipe just big enough to fit inside the pvc pipe and heating the steel with a torch. Then just work out the pvc pipe.
Thanks for watching Joseph, to be honest I've always had a problem removing pipes once they have been cemented together. I usually end up destroying the whole pipe and fitting. So if it works for you, please let me know:) I've seen the video that you're referring to, by the way.
@@davekennedy52 I decided to get a 1" inside connector from the internet. That was recommended to me from Home Depot and none of my local plumbing suppliers had it in stock. I'm not crazy about using this but it is the simplest fix. I was told it wouldn't cut down too much on the flow and if it does, I'll just have to remove it and do a little more plumbing to get it to work.
Well at least you have found a solution, hope it works for you!
May I suggest dipping the end in boiling water. This will heat the end evenly and not risk burning. Works well.
thanks for the info Jimmy, never tried it myself. PVC softens at about 80 Celsius
The internal commentary I was hearing when watched this was a mess of bloody immature sniggering and lewd catcalls, perhaps a sign that I have yet to grow up fully. Nevertheless, thank you sir, for teaching me something new.
Staying young at heart is a virtue, glad you enjoyed it
Sir I could have used this last weekend. Mr. Plumer gave me a $3800 estimate to fix a small water leak on my service water line. I’m cheap, decided to challenge myself and fixes it under $25.00 in parts.
Thats fantastic! Well done Humberto, I'm sure you now have a lot of confidence for your next DIY job!
I want to add to your instructions. I recommend that you have an extra inch to the male end of the pipe because when you remove it you would noticed that the male piece is shrinked at the end. I usually cut off about an inch where it began to norrows.
Yes, good point Junior, thank you. I use my off cut pieces for the male part, so never really had that problem
You can cool it down much faster by running cool water over the heated area. Saves a lot of time, too.
Actually did so yesterday and it works immediately
@@davekennedy52 - When running water is not readily available. Which is very common on site!
No worries a wet rag/cloth makes it gast and easy! ;-)
thanks crpth1, i've been doing that-it saves my fingers!
Excellent! I've heard it could be done but it was never explained to me. Thank you for the demonstration.
You;re welcome Bruce, thanks for watching
Thank you for sharing, my grandfather used to make like this with a regular wood flame.
Thank ser-ser:) The first time I saw it done, they heated the pipe over a fire made from old cement bags
I don't know it would work for water but I've been trying to rig a dust collection system for a year using shop vac hoses, Through many trials and errors I've found that by using 2" elec. conduit and wrapping it with duct tape makes a reasonable fit inside a 2" pvc pipe, doing that on both ends of a 4-5" length of conduit enables me to connect pvc or a shop vac hose and pvc, then I wrap the outside of all .
I used duct tape in a hose connection for my waterfall feature for my frog pond. I'm never without it!
I will have to heat an adaptor just like you show to I can fit a smaller hose adaptor on the end of a 32mm diameter pipe. I believed that the outside diameters like you said in the video are 40 and 32 mm. Those are actually the internal diameters of these solvent weld pipes so you have to add the pipe wall thickness (x2) to have the true outside diameters which ends up not being a standard adaptor size. I could not source such an odd size adaptor so hopefully this method will allow me to push my pipe (36.4 mm outside diameter) into the adaptor which needs to be stretched.
Hope it worked for you Lawrie, sorry I didn't reply to you earlier because I kept on forgetting to go and measure my pipes All my pipes, 32mm, 40mm, and 100mm are all outside measurements. The wall thickness is 2mm. So for example, a 40mm pipe can fit into a 36mm inside diameter. This is in France by the way:)
Thanks Dave, seems our UK waste plastic pipe size denominations differ to our own UK copper pipe denominations where for example copper pipe designated 15mm, 22mm and 28mm are the outside diameters. Buying many so called 32mm or 40mm plastic waste pipes in the the past has never been an issue as the elbow and straight connectors purchased at same time fitted without issue and didn't need to measure the internal or external diameters. Your French pipes with external 32/40 mm diameter would have made my task in trying to find an adaptor to fit a slightly smaller size plastic flat hose (for a pump) easier. The adaptor I used was for a vacuum cleaner but of different plastic material to that of the solvent weld/pvc waste piping you heated in your video. It did stretch a little under heat but I didn't want to stress it too much so finished off filing and sanding out the inner diameter a little more until it would take the 32mm pipe which was glued in. I should finally add that I did practise your method on a piece of plastic waste pipe beforehand which worked well and gave me the confidence to try it out on the vacuum adaptor. Thanks for sharing your technique with all on UA-cam.
Thank you Lawrie, glad you got your problem sorted and thanks for the interesting read
7:17 to say:
"heat up one side until soft, then insert other side into heated part"
You should do a "Part 2" where you take 10:00 to show us how to cool it down by running cold water over it.
I thought I'd give you a few minutes to finish your popcorn
Always use a the primer cleaner before you glue , the primer cleans the pvc pipe from oil thats used in the manufacturing process , as I found out the hard way when installing a toilet pipe.
I usually just roughen the surfaces with sandpaper. Didn't know about the oils, thanks for the tip!
It's OK to use this method underground, we made a joint like that about 18 years ago and it was still fine when it was uncovered last year.
Hi Earthling, so pleased to read your comment, a few people have expressed doubts about the strength of the join, and now we all know its fine. My oldest one is 10 years.
Excellent video. I found it very useful -- not yet, but the day is coming.
Thanks for a very good presentation.
Thanks a lottttttttttttt Sir Vvvvvvv useful TRICK.
You welcome Sahiba, glad you enjoyed it
I love that. I wish I would have known that trick years ago. Thanks
you're welcome Robert thanks for watching:)
you can also use the gas cooker to warm the pipe up if you don't have a heat gun
Yes I suppose you could, just keep on turning the pipe so the heat is distributed evenly, thanks for the tip:)
Wow definitely never thought of that before. Sweet idea bud
thanks Souky, first time was when I was snowed in for a week with split pipes. It really helped me!
thanks Dave for the video. Now I need to get one of those heat gun. very useful.
They are useful! I originally bought mine to strip enamel paint from an old door
Our suppliers in Cambridge are open 7 days a week - but great tip all the same! Baie Dankie!
Groot plesier!
Nice! Especially in a bind, as you say. I can see where this could be useful if you need some series low angle bends, as well, to snake around something in a gentle fashion. Cool vid., will add to my "tool box". Cheers, or the South African equivalent (I'm assuming by the accent, sorry if wrong). ;-)
This is good for an emergency and pond work. Use the male part for the inlet, should lessen the chance of leakage.
absolutely Gunzee!
wow ! it's brilliant! and simple...specially on the week-end stores closed! Thanks a lot. Happy Holidays be safe and be happy
Thanks Tuan, glad you enjoyed it, Best wishes to you too!
way kool. no need for toxic flammable pvc cement. thanks.
Sorry to disappoint you Mr Budd, but you going to need some of that nasty stuff, just to stop the leaks
Lol...except for huffing the heated polyvinyl chloride.
Wow! I never realized I could do this. I've seen the preformed couplings on the end of each length and it never occurred to me to make my own.
Glad you found it useful OP
Thanks Dave. What a great tip!
Many thanks Doug, :) glad you enjoyed it!
@@davekennedy52 l
great video and nice way to heat pvc but i think a cloth with cold water will be easier to cool it
the toilet uses 110 mm boss not 100 mm
Thank you Mika, yes the cloth and cold water definitely works faster. The PVC pipe that I have is definitely 100mm outside diameter, its also printed with 100mm on the side, maybe its a Europe dimension. I live in France
@@davekennedy52 ah oki
ici a l'ile Maurice c'est 110 mm pour les toilet
Petit conseil de plombier, quand tu utilise un blower pour chaufer utilise un bon pair de gang , je me suis archi bruler avec sa
Merci Mika! C’est un bon conseil
A trick that has been around for at least 40 years.
and not known by many because DIY was in it's infancy stage, thanks Macca,
Oh a counter reply! The game is on!
You made statement condescedingly belittling the OP's effort to help others with a trick he knows for no reward other than probably a few thanks and the pleasure of helping others. There is absolutely no reason for your 'so what' statement other than an attempt to place yourself above others.
BTW, this is the Internet, it is broader than using local coloquialisms such as "twat" that has no impact on me at all, British I presume, which explains the arrogance, you should dig into your bag for more globallly broader terms of offense such as cunt. Cunt.
If you ever buy a pipe, you will find that they have one end already prepared this way - at least in Australia. So it should give you the idea...
thanks George, all pipes come with both male and female sides. The problem arises if you have a breakage half way along the pipe. and no coupling for the repair!:)
I know, I just wanted to say that on a new pipe people can find how it looks. I always use this method - never the connector.
Of course it is better to use a heat gun...
Thanks George, I misunderstood......yes if people want to see how it looks. thanks for the comment:)
Thanks for the tip. I didn't know that PVC softened up that much from heat.
you're welcome Pete, but too much heat on one spot destroys it
Actually, not sure when a non-pressure emergency would occur. For water pressure situations, perhaps, in the long, run - using the proper glued connectors should always be used. [In the real world - short cuts will bring you down.]
Thanks for the comment Dan, these are all evacuation pipes, so no pressure. In 2011 we had -15degrees C for 2 weeks. Slowly the ice built up in the pipes and then blocked completely and expanded and broke the pipes in multiple place including the proper connectors. Couldn't get to shops because of snow and ice so I used this method. Now I do it all the time:)
Nice perfect for tieing in pole light underground feeders when you have a foot or so to work with
I think I understand what you're saying and yes it's fine for tight spaces, thanks for your comment
+davekennedy52 you from S.A I am too but live in the states now
Hi tontaiameriki, well spotted, its the accent which gives us away, I think we've spread throughout the world. I live in France and my daughter in NYC.
have you tried just putting a cold cloth on it to cool it down like a heat sink? Great idea to get you out of pinch.
Thanks for your comment, Tom, I've started doing that now after some of the comments that I've received. It works perfectly
Thanks for this. Simple but effective!
You're welcome Tom, thanks for watching
If you bevel the outside of your cold tool pipe and the inside of the future female pipe before heating, you can do this job in half the time
Thanks for the tip HS, see below, SaraganiBob made a similar comment
Good and simple idea to save time and money.
glad you enjoyed it Krishna:)
Good video. I suppose I would do this to avoid having to drive a long distance to home depot.
thank you John, I was once snowed in for 2 weeks with bust pipes, this really helped me out
you should have said you need to think about the direction of flow of water as in this video it from the left (inner) pipe to the right one
Thanks Chaz, you're completely correct. I should have mentioned it
Yeah, because flow in the direction of the,"Male," would cause cavitation.
Bell to the Well.
To REALLY affect the flow, this should be used several times. Used once, the additional pressure drop will be negligible.
Thanks for the video sir, you literally saved my day!
Glad you enjoyed it Levente, saved my day a few times as well:)
Wow simple and brilliant idea..👍
Thanks Shinchando, glad you enjoyed it. Once you get the hang of it, it goes quite quickly
Adding cold water should help the cooling process,less time to wait,
Thanks for your comment Emmett, a few people have suggested that, and its a great idea
your work is really amazing! very inspiring! thank you!
nice compliment! Thank you!
Thanks for sharing. They has been many time here at my house through the years I could had use this method.
glad you found it useful Mike, thanks for watching
Well, damn I never thought of that!!! thank you
Glad you enjoyed it Train Man, thanks for watching
Thank you for the video. I don't have a hot air gun and sometimes work in a location without electricity. I wonder if it might be possible to use a butane torch?
You're welcome Dave! Look at "preceptor's" comment below. He used the exhaust from his truck to soften the PVC. I have used old cement bags and newspaper to make a fire and held the pipe over it. You have to keep rotating it. Butane torch is too much heat and the PVC will scorch.
@@davekennedy52 actually I’m a electrician 20yrs now and I’ve always used a butane torch to make bends and off sets in pvc all the time. Don’t get me wrong u will torch it fast if u get too close. Key is to keep proper distance with the torch about 3-5 in away from tip of flame and constantly rotate. It’s way faster then using are green lee warmer to bend pvc and faster than using the heat gun too.
@@pate669 Must admit my attempts with a butane torch were a disaster. Kept on scorching the pipe! I think I must have been too close. Thanks for your advice:)
Amazing brother, you sloved my one of out standing problem
pleased to hear that MA, glad you enjoyed the video:)
Don't let her get you do good job
Thanks Muerte, appreciate the comment:)
Seven minutes usefully spent.
Thanks kgs42, very pleased that you enjoyed it
The downsides of doing it this way are not only will you end up with an undesirable taper on BOTH ends of the connection, but you might also cause a "Crease" in the male-end which could bypass (Leak) later on.
One way to solve this is what many service people in the irrigation industry use, which is an assortment of 7in. hardwood dowels with the last 2-inches lathed (Turned) down to the O.D. of the various pipe-sizes with a lead-in-chamfer at the end, this and a propane torch with a flame spreader attachment allows you to form a Bell while in the field without causing a taper on EITHER end of the pipe.
Thanks for the comment Josh, not sure what you mean by a taper on both ends.Unless you're talking about a slight flaring of the leading edge on the female part, which would be eliminated by a "lead in chamfer"on the tool that you're suggesting
The male part that I use is just a random off cut piece of pipe, only used to flare the female section. PVC softens at around 70 degrees C, and the male part inside never gets warm enough to soften so I don't think there's the danger of creasing.
Nice idea with the hardwood dowels:)
To: davekennedy52,
The taper I was referring to can be caused by the male end becoming heated enough to compress the diameter when inserting it to form the Bell, this compression can result in an inward-buckling or "Crease" which could become problematic later on, as long as the male end never becomes hot enough to distort you're in good shape... Thanks for the video!
you can also get slight angle changes
haven't yet tried that Michael, should be interesting although I think some "kinking" would be the result if the curve is too great
I Dunno...I'm in a hurry and need the quicker Glue/Connector
It would take a longggg time to do a job BUT otherwise its a nice bell on one end, useful for a limited amount of plumbing.
it reduces the size of the inner pipe, it must to be done faster with a pipe of probe in and then insert the definitive cold and fast with glue, this is made all the time by plumbers with a torch and the conexion is better than using coples.
thanks Kefren, the inner pipe dimension would stay the same, it's the female part that gets flared. I would be hesitant to use a torch although I know that some people do. PVC softens around 70 degrees Centigrade so not a lot of heat is required
That work if you have a blower heater...if not better you go to DIY shop and buy adapter......easy...
Heat guns these days are quite cheap...........
To cool it down just uses a wet rag, when I bought my first heat gun I had no idea how useful it could be.
Yes you right Dr mosfet, thats the best way. I use my heat gun a lot too, busy stripping paint off some old doors at the moment
I've tried it. Good...thank you verry much.
You're welcome Dwi, glad it worked for you
nice and easy thanx for shearing
Asif javed u
just keep heat gun a bit longer and increase distance so you wil give time to inner pipe to partiali melt and it wil be joined for ever just like ppr
I've always used PVC adhesive to join the pipes but thanks for your suggestion, I'll give it a try
Looks much cleaner than using a connector.
I've never thought of it that way, but you're right, I either get glue on my hands, on my work surface or down the side of the tin
Great content bro i like it too much
Appreciate it, thank you
Good Idea very nice
Thanks Rovit,
Fair enough,I'm an LLC plumber and all I'm saying is this does not meet code.as a temporary fix,sure but any inspector would shut this right down.i plumb new houses and wineries full time and would never do this.just sayin
As a qualified and full time plumber I'm sure you would never need to do this, you probably have a full supply of components> Sorry Robert, it probably grates your nerves to see something thats not according to the plumbers code:)
He DID mention that this is a suitable procedure for a situation where the correct repair items are not readily available. NOT everyone lives within 5 minutes of a 7 days a week supply store, I certainly don't. IT WORKS DAMMIT!
How are they made in the factory?
If you don't have a heatgun you can use a hairdryer or blow tourch, or at a push ths gas cooker
Great suggestions Javeed, although I tried with a blow torch once and burnt the pipe. PVC goes soft at about 80 degrees C
Now if you could just come up with an attachment to spread the heat evenly!
I'm going to try that with a couple of 2 meters drain pipes, wish me luck.
should be interesting............good luck!
bridgendesar Lowes heat gun, 3 or 4 different attachments
good job
Appreciate the comment, thanks for watching Sosro
Nice-N- easy trick:)
Throw water on it to cool it faster. Oh you don't have to go hardware shop, I mean hardware store. :)
thanks woompa, a wet cloth works well too
Nice Dave, thanks
thanks for watching Wayne, hope you enjoyed Cape Town
davekennedy52 I do thanks Dave... Trying to fix a pipe problem
Good luck with the pipe Wayne, shout if you need help. I'm ex-Cape Town
Very nice
Glad you enjoyed it U Thein, thanks for watching
Off to the store to get an airgun now
good idea! they're very useful, glad you enjoyed the video
That was great idea ..thanks
you're welcome Khalid, thanks for watching:)
Nicely done! Thank you for making this video.
Thanks Tom, its my pleasure, glad you enjoyed it
enjoyed your video. thank you.
You're welcome David L , thanks for watching
very interesting video.
Great tip to make it work
thanks for watching Ruben