Thank you very much for taking time to help out.I checked the switch ,that seemed ok.At this point I feel a little out of my depth.My trade is refrigeration mechanic ,more electrical than electronics based so I have sent the unit off to the service agent.I will advise on what they find.I did have a look at the capacitors and could not see any swelling ,overheating,of deformity.As I said most grateful for your efforts…Cheers …John
Hi I sent the unit to the benq agent and after $66 Aus. They have finally informed me it is the power supply and it is un available.So really no further down the track.They asked if I wanted to dispose of it. I have requested it be put together and I will collect .Nothing to lose so will give power supply voltage measuring and look over another go….Thanks John
Glad this is helpful! I'm a big fan of sim2. I hope to own one of the higher end models someday. The ht3000 series is a model I really like. Or one of their three dlp units. Have fun repairing yours!
Hello Frank. Just found your valuable video on the D20. I've got one that is still going strong. I've also got a D80ewe With a lamp issue. I replaced the lamp back in 2018 and it was fine for two days. I contacted Sim2 UK for them to tell me how to reset the lamp meter. Then I left it alone for a couple of months. When I came to turn it on again, the fan started up alright, but the lamp failed to ignite. I made several further attempts to start the lamp without success. If memory serves it was a Philips lamp purchased on Ebay and seemed genuine. My records show that the original lamp was an Osram and I was assured that the Ebay replacement would work fine and it did initially. I'm wondering if there may be an issue with the ballast board. I wonder if you might care to comment. If you think it is the ballast then I can use your video to open up the PJ and get to it...That's if I can source a new board. Thanks
I recall the Osram bare lamp that used to be the replacement. Osram stopped making that version unfortunately. Luckily the Philips version is truly as good if not slightly better(quality wise, the optical specs are the same as Osram). As far as what has failed, it a little hard to truly say without looking at the projector. I'd be suspect of the same issue as the d20 though. I seem to recall they use very similar power supplies. It's reasonable to suspect them due to the age of the projector. It would also explain why it worked before you put it aside for a few months. I'd suggest reseating/connecting the lamp just in case it's a bad connection. Then I would look for those capacitors. The chances of the ballast being faulty are very low. The main power supply is more the area I think is your problem.
OK, That is very good to know. Next you want to verify the low voltage power from the power supply to the mainboard. You may want ot check elektrotanya.com to see if they offer a service manual. When you have no-start, there are many different possible causes. You need to rule each one out. Making sure you have low voltage control power would be my next step. See if you have 12/5/3.3Vdc on some of the pins to the mainboard. I am guessing on the voltages. It might only show 5V when in standby. I would also check the secondary side of the power supply and see if you have any bloated capacitors. A symptom of that is "weird" voltages. 4.2v instead of 5 or even higher voltage. It will always seem non-standard though. One thing that comes to mind is making sure hte lamp door switch is working properly. Sometimes they can kill the power to the mainboard if that switch is not being activated by the lamp cover or the switch itself failed. In fact, check that first. Make sure the lamp door switch is working and is closed when the lamp cover is in place.
Hello Frank. Thanks for your reply. Maybe I misunderstood things, but I thought that if the capacitors were defective, then there would be no power at all to anything. With my D80ewe, it does whirr into action and the fan starts up, it's just the lamp that won't ignite, at least that was the case when I last tried it back in 2019. But if you still say it's likely to be the capacitors then I will investigate them? Thanks
I saw your other comment. That helps a lot. If the fans are starting and its acting like its going to run and then doesnt, the caps are probably OK. I think it is still worth reseating the lamp assembly and making sure all the connections are good. Also, this will sound weird, but take the lamp and gently yet firmly smack it against your hand. This is to dislodge any deposits on the end of the arc points. Basically give it a solid whack against your hand but not hard enough to break the plastic. Kind of like patting the bottom of a ketchup bottle. Do that once or twice and try it again. It is rare but I have heard of bare lamps failing in storage. It is very rare though. If none of this works, I would try another lamp but make sure you can return it. You are outside of the states correct?
@@FixitFrank Hello Frank. Thanks for your response. Yes, I'm in the UK. I've just tried your recommendations, but no joy! Now I see I have to buy special tamper proof torx bits to take the metal cover off under the hood, which would be worth it anyway. Meantime, any other ideas? Do you think it might be worth swapping out the ballast board, depending on whether I can find another one! I can't seem to find a UK address for Sim2. They used to be in Sussex, but there's nothing now. I see they are everywhere in the States though.
Hi Fixit Frank, It's a big hello from England. Recently I've picked up a SIM2 HT300 PLUS DG cinema 300 when you switch the power on you get red and green LED then the gree goes off but the projector doesn't fire up. I did a quick inspection of the insides and came across of capacitor directly behind the A/V input card, The capacitor he's on a card that plugs into the DPL unit, the capacitor has bulged luckily I had a replacement however it did not fix the problem. I came across your video and I take a close look at the power supply it looks good but I think I'll change all the capacitors just like what you did. One thing I noticed on that power board if you look on the bottom side you have L-shaped isolation cut out just at the end of the cutout there is a component C201 there is a strange mark,I thought it was an exploded component but after watching your video (timeline 10:08) you have the same mark. Have you spotted it?
Hi Frank, wondering if you know what could be the potential problem for the Sim2 Domina D60 that just had the lamp replaced and was watching a movie a couple nights ago and heard a popping sound and stopped working now. Any suggestions would be appreciate!
It almost sounds like the lamp popped again. Did you have the entire lamp and housing replaced or just the bare lamp inside the housing? Did the old lamp explode when it failed or did it just stop lighting?
@@FixitFrank sorry for the late reply Frank! No, the previous lamp was just dim and needed replacement. I think the new lamp is still good... no signs of damage. But the projector is dead now with no power! What would be the next step? Power supply or looking for damaged components.......
@@FixitFrank just opens up the projector! After some time researching online, Looks like the regulator ic on the power board is badly damaged! Defaced and broken with no way of recognizing the model number! It’s a 6 prong component . Can you fix it if I send it to you or any advice will be much appreciated!!
Hey Frank, so you think that, to be on the safe side, it's best to replace all the caps on the power board to prevent any future issues? Changing capacitors look easy. Anything you need to be careful with like making sure you get the same ones? Can you upgrade to better or higher rated capacitors? Oh, great job on that repair. 👍🏾 Darrick
It depends on the brand that is on the board. Nichicon is a good brand and will last a good long while. No reason to change those. The caps I put in were higher quality brand(also Nichicon) but you can't really replace them with higher rated caps. The value is designated by the engineers and changing that value may affect operation. It also depends on where they are situated. The other caps are on the low voltage side so they are not exposed to that much heat or power. The 4 that I changed are near heat sources and for whatever reason are not a good brand of cap.I see that sometimes which is weird. No idea why they would use all Nichicon and then cheap out on 4 small filter caps. That is the same situation as a Runco Cl710 power supply. All nice digital caps and then a handful or no-name filter caps that go bad. I find that less is more sometimes. There are exceptions but for the most part, but in the past I have removed and tested those secondary caps (and the main filter cap) and they tested fine. Good ESR and Uf value, so I opted to leave them. So far never had a failure after the fact and some of those Sim2s are now 6 years repaired and still running.
Great video. I have a D35 with power supply that looks almost identical. It has had some trauma. 8pin chip blew up and I cant identify the chip. Do you know the chip number or have a schematic?
Hi Peter, could you email me a picture of the power supply that you have? I do not have a schematic but I still have this domino 20 around. I can look.
Hello there!. I own the same projector, the black model.. I am having image issues, the HDMI port stopped working. at first it started flickering green screen and now rest of inputs image are disorted. Quality is not there anymore and looks like when yellow video cable is halfway in. It's on all inputs no longer have HDMI. When browsing the net I came across your channel also few people are doing firm update. Don't know what to do..
I have tried Direct TV receiver, play station, DVD players, Wii console, laptop. Some I run through my Denon AVR-2106 and use output video to the projector
@@juanjarquin9855 Gotcha. I was wondering if it's an HDCP issue. But with a laptop connected that should not be a problem. I'd be suspect of the power supply first and the firmware next. Essentially since it used to work with those sources(I am assuming) something changed internally that is now creating the problem. I have an HT300E on the bench right now and I will get some voltages to verify.
Hello Frank, I have the same issue on the same projector in black. I would like to know if you would repair it? And how much would that cost? I live in IN.
Hello Bertha, Shipping is probably $30~ each way to me. The cost is hard to say without seeing it. I also know a shop in Indianapolis who might be able to help you. Why don't you email me at sales@weezytech.com and we can discuss it.
I have a sims2 HT300E that keeps Shutting off on me and I get a green screen I think it might be the fan over the project the light is that something that you can work on
Hi Jose! I am well versed with the HT300E. It may be the beginning of the same issue this one had. Feel free to email me at Sales@weezytech.com if you would like to discuss repair. If you are in the USA, it should be easy.
Hello Frank, your video is very helpfull. I have a similar projector and the T201 transistor has exploded and I cannot read the type. Please write me the type of this transistor. Regards Zoli
Hi Zoli. Im sorry but I am not sure. This projector is long gone. I looked that video though and I think its a fqp50n06 though(nope, P5NK80ZFP). Or at least a modern equivalent. It switches the PFC power(check your ballast) so it needs to handle at least 400v at at least 1 amp(400watts). (The original is a 4.3 amp(5 amp) 800V N Ch Mosfet). ** edits are in parenthesis **
Update! As luck would have it, I had a Sim2 Domino 80 show up yesterday. It has the same power supply. That mosfet is P5NK80ZFP. That is the exact part#.
Thank you very much for taking time to help out.I checked the switch ,that seemed ok.At this point I feel a little out of my depth.My trade is refrigeration mechanic ,more electrical than electronics based so I have sent the unit off to the service agent.I will advise on what they find.I did have a look at the capacitors and could not see any swelling ,overheating,of deformity.As I said most grateful for your efforts…Cheers …John
Totally understand! I will be curious to hear what they find. Hopefully it is something minor. You are very welcome!
Hi I sent the unit to the benq agent and after $66 Aus. They have finally informed me it is the power supply and it is un available.So really no further down the track.They asked if I wanted to dispose of it. I have requested it be put together and I will collect .Nothing to lose so will give power supply voltage measuring and look over another go….Thanks John
Frank - brilliant share thanks. I will take on this project to fix my much loved Sim2 Domino over the home isolation period. Really appreciate it
Glad this is helpful! I'm a big fan of sim2. I hope to own one of the higher end models someday. The ht3000 series is a model I really like. Or one of their three dlp units. Have fun repairing yours!
Great tutorial Frank, thanks for sharing your work.
Thanks Peter! I find it relaxing and enjoyable so I am glad people are finding it helpful.
Hello Frank. Just found your valuable video on the D20. I've got one that is still going strong. I've also got a D80ewe With a lamp issue. I replaced the lamp back in 2018 and it was fine for two days. I contacted Sim2 UK for them to tell me how to reset the lamp meter. Then I left it alone for a couple of months. When I came to turn it on again, the fan started up alright, but the lamp failed to ignite. I made several further attempts to start the lamp without success. If memory serves it was a Philips lamp purchased on Ebay and seemed genuine. My records show that the original lamp was an Osram and I was assured that the Ebay replacement would work fine and it did initially. I'm wondering if there may be an issue with the ballast board. I wonder if you might care to comment. If you think it is the ballast then I can use your video to open up the PJ and get to it...That's if I can source a new board. Thanks
I recall the Osram bare lamp that used to be the replacement. Osram stopped making that version unfortunately. Luckily the Philips version is truly as good if not slightly better(quality wise, the optical specs are the same as Osram). As far as what has failed, it a little hard to truly say without looking at the projector. I'd be suspect of the same issue as the d20 though. I seem to recall they use very similar power supplies. It's reasonable to suspect them due to the age of the projector. It would also explain why it worked before you put it aside for a few months.
I'd suggest reseating/connecting the lamp just in case it's a bad connection. Then I would look for those capacitors. The chances of the ballast being faulty are very low. The main power supply is more the area I think is your problem.
Checked only switch and power to switch and the fuse,thanks for the quick reply..
OK, That is very good to know. Next you want to verify the low voltage power from the power supply to the mainboard. You may want ot check elektrotanya.com to see if they offer a service manual. When you have no-start, there are many different possible causes. You need to rule each one out. Making sure you have low voltage control power would be my next step. See if you have 12/5/3.3Vdc on some of the pins to the mainboard. I am guessing on the voltages. It might only show 5V when in standby. I would also check the secondary side of the power supply and see if you have any bloated capacitors. A symptom of that is "weird" voltages. 4.2v instead of 5 or even higher voltage. It will always seem non-standard though.
One thing that comes to mind is making sure hte lamp door switch is working properly. Sometimes they can kill the power to the mainboard if that switch is not being activated by the lamp cover or the switch itself failed. In fact, check that first. Make sure the lamp door switch is working and is closed when the lamp cover is in place.
Hello Frank. Thanks for your reply.
Maybe I misunderstood things, but I thought that if the capacitors were defective, then there would be no power at all to anything. With my D80ewe, it does whirr into action and the fan starts up, it's just the lamp that won't ignite, at least that was the case when I last tried it back in 2019.
But if you still say it's likely to be the capacitors then I will investigate them? Thanks
Hi again. Yes I can confirm that when I connect power, the red and green lights come on, then it goes to steady red standby light
I saw your other comment. That helps a lot. If the fans are starting and its acting like its going to run and then doesnt, the caps are probably OK.
I think it is still worth reseating the lamp assembly and making sure all the connections are good. Also, this will sound weird, but take the lamp and gently yet firmly smack it against your hand. This is to dislodge any deposits on the end of the arc points. Basically give it a solid whack against your hand but not hard enough to break the plastic. Kind of like patting the bottom of a ketchup bottle. Do that once or twice and try it again. It is rare but I have heard of bare lamps failing in storage. It is very rare though. If none of this works, I would try another lamp but make sure you can return it.
You are outside of the states correct?
@@FixitFrank Hello Frank. Thanks for your response. Yes, I'm in the UK. I've just tried your recommendations, but no joy! Now I see I have to buy special tamper proof torx bits to take the metal cover off under the hood, which would be worth it anyway. Meantime, any other ideas? Do you think it might be worth swapping out the ballast board, depending on whether I can find another one! I can't seem to find a UK address for Sim2. They used to be in Sussex, but there's nothing now. I see they are everywhere in the States though.
Hi Fixit Frank, It's a big hello from England. Recently I've picked up a SIM2 HT300 PLUS DG cinema 300 when you switch the power on you get red and green LED then the gree goes off but the projector doesn't fire up. I did a quick inspection of the insides and came across of capacitor directly behind the A/V input card, The capacitor he's on a card that plugs into the DPL unit, the capacitor has bulged luckily I had a replacement however it did not fix the problem.
I came across your video and I take a close look at the power supply it looks good but I think I'll change all the capacitors just like what you did.
One thing I noticed on that power board if you look on the bottom side you have L-shaped isolation cut out just at the end of the cutout there is a component C201 there is a strange mark,I thought it was an exploded component but after watching your video (timeline 10:08) you have the same mark. Have you spotted it?
Hi Frank, wondering if you know what could be the potential problem for the Sim2 Domina D60 that just had the lamp replaced and was watching a movie a couple nights ago and heard a popping sound and stopped working now. Any suggestions would be appreciate!
It almost sounds like the lamp popped again. Did you have the entire lamp and housing replaced or just the bare lamp inside the housing? Did the old lamp explode when it failed or did it just stop lighting?
@@FixitFrank sorry for the late reply Frank! No, the previous lamp was just dim and needed replacement. I think the new lamp is still good... no signs of damage. But the projector is dead now with no power! What would be the next step? Power supply or looking for damaged components.......
@@FixitFrank just opens up the projector! After some time researching online, Looks like the regulator ic on the power board is badly damaged! Defaced and broken with no way of recognizing the model number! It’s a 6 prong component . Can you fix it if I send it to you or any advice will be much appreciated!!
Hey Frank, so you think that, to be on the safe side, it's best to replace all the caps on the power board to prevent any future issues?
Changing capacitors look easy. Anything you need to be careful with like making sure you get the same ones? Can you upgrade to better or higher rated capacitors?
Oh, great job on that repair. 👍🏾
Darrick
It depends on the brand that is on the board. Nichicon is a good brand and will last a good long while. No reason to change those. The caps I put in were higher quality brand(also Nichicon) but you can't really replace them with higher rated caps. The value is designated by the engineers and changing that value may affect operation. It also depends on where they are situated. The other caps are on the low voltage side so they are not exposed to that much heat or power. The 4 that I changed are near heat sources and for whatever reason are not a good brand of cap.I see that sometimes which is weird. No idea why they would use all Nichicon and then cheap out on 4 small filter caps. That is the same situation as a Runco Cl710 power supply. All nice digital caps and then a handful or no-name filter caps that go bad.
I find that less is more sometimes. There are exceptions but for the most part, but in the past I have removed and tested those secondary caps (and the main filter cap) and they tested fine. Good ESR and Uf value, so I opted to leave them. So far never had a failure after the fact and some of those Sim2s are now 6 years repaired and still running.
Great video. I have a D35 with power supply that looks almost identical. It has had some trauma. 8pin chip blew up and I cant identify the chip. Do you know the chip number or have a schematic?
Hi Peter, could you email me a picture of the power supply that you have? I do not have a schematic but I still have this domino 20 around. I can look.
@@FixitFrank That would be cool but don't go to too much trouble. How do I send you a picture?
I have an email listed on the about page. I don't like to post it in comments because spammers tend to harvest them.
@@FixitFrank Thanks, sent you an email.
@@ferrograph Thanks! I may not get back to you until tomorrow just FYI. The day job has me tied up at the moment but I will get back to you!
Hello there!.
I own the same projector, the black model.. I am having image issues, the HDMI port stopped working. at first it started flickering green screen and now rest of inputs image are disorted. Quality is not there anymore and looks like when yellow video cable is halfway in. It's on all inputs no longer have HDMI. When browsing the net I came across your channel also few people are doing firm update. Don't know what to do..
What kind of source are you using?
I have tried Direct TV receiver, play station, DVD players, Wii console, laptop. Some I run through my Denon AVR-2106 and use output video to the projector
@@juanjarquin9855 Gotcha. I was wondering if it's an HDCP issue. But with a laptop connected that should not be a problem. I'd be suspect of the power supply first and the firmware next. Essentially since it used to work with those sources(I am assuming) something changed internally that is now creating the problem. I have an HT300E on the bench right now and I will get some voltages to verify.
Hello Frank, I have the same issue on the same projector in black. I would like to know if you would repair it? And how much would that cost? I live in IN.
Hello Bertha, Shipping is probably $30~ each way to me. The cost is hard to say without seeing it. I also know a shop in Indianapolis who might be able to help you. Why don't you email me at sales@weezytech.com and we can discuss it.
I have a sims2 HT300E that keeps Shutting off on me and I get a green screen I think it might be the fan over the project the light is that something that you can work on
Hi Jose! I am well versed with the HT300E. It may be the beginning of the same issue this one had. Feel free to email me at Sales@weezytech.com if you would like to discuss repair. If you are in the USA, it should be easy.
Hello Frank, your video is very helpfull. I have a similar projector and the T201 transistor has exploded and I cannot read the type. Please write me the type of this transistor. Regards Zoli
Hi Zoli. Im sorry but I am not sure. This projector is long gone. I looked that video though and I think its a fqp50n06 though(nope, P5NK80ZFP). Or at least a modern equivalent. It switches the PFC power(check your ballast) so it needs to handle at least 400v at at least 1 amp(400watts). (The original is a 4.3 amp(5 amp) 800V N Ch Mosfet). ** edits are in parenthesis **
@@FixitFrank Thanks Frank.
Update! As luck would have it, I had a Sim2 Domino 80 show up yesterday. It has the same power supply. That mosfet is P5NK80ZFP. That is the exact part#.
imgur.com/nGud4UU here is a picture.
@@FixitFrank Thank you I bought it. When I started to repair I found out that four resistors also burnt down and I don't know the values of those.
I have one. Has power bc red light comes on. When hitting on switch, quickly flashes red and green and then goes back to just red
Probably the same thing as this one. Its super common. also the large filter cap is common to fail.
OK, very good vídeo repair!
Thank you very much!
Frank have just changed the bulb and the picture is even more dull that the 4000 hour old bulb? Bit far away to send it to you!
Thanks …Have a Benq pb8230 no power,fuse ok .
What have you checked besides the fuse?
Optoma CB2800 Projectar Power supply repair
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