How to safely open a Mercedes-Benz Key Fob (4 Button Triangle Panic) with Narration
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- Опубліковано 16 вер 2024
- This is a visual breakdown on how to take apart a Mercedes Benz smart Key fob, style DC12K . The parts are serviceable, but YOU MUST PERMANENTLY BREAK THE EPOXY SEAL. No worries, though. It puts back together very nicely and securely. This FOB was run over and stopped working, so the battery contacts to the board needed adjustment. If you are in a rush, the basic walk through is • Video
Enjoy and leave comments below!
You do take time to explain the process so that even non-techs like myself can understand clearly what to do, and I thank you for that. I need to replace passenger's side tail light assembly on my 2009 MB E350 4Matic (appearnace package), Can you help me with that?
Yes indeed he is great. I am trying to repair the compressor on my fridge I hope he can help me with that too...
Thank you for being so detailed step by step much appreciated.
25 minutes, you're killing us.
This helped me out so so so much. You did what these auto places couldn’t do🙂🙂🥰🥰🥰
Thank you very much, this is the only video around for this type of key fob, and even at 25 minutes I greatly appreciate it
Very methodical and comprehensive - thanks!!!
i'm loving that circuit city screw driver! reminiscing hard right now about those rebates
I used to go to Circuit City in Best Buy about half and half so they could each get my business and then Fry's came along and they took even more of it but that's not an issue anymore
The side chromes come off easily if you use a screwdriver at the top and pry it off a little Your instructions were great I changed the cover in about 20 minutes Thanks
Thank you, your explanation was very detailed and helpful.
Nice One man.got me out of trouble repaired locking and starting problem..U dah Man.. : ) : )
Thanks a bunch for the video. You can use the tip of the metal key itself to dislodge the latch, actually.
You did a great job explaining thank you so much from the bottom of my heart I got mine sphinx
Thanks for your time mate. it was very helpful.
good tutorial video. I would risk to take my key apart. Love the BGM by the way. that was my wedding song. - a thousand years cello version
The video needs some additional info, like why the chrome sides don't come off as some have posted. So here it is:
I'll refer to the chrome side pieces as "csp" from here on, and the front end of the key is the business end with the red panic button. So what I discovered is my csp's would not budge and I certainly wasn't going to use pliers and scratch or dent them. They don't budge because there are little plastic hook catches on the body of the key that latch on a rib inside the csp about 5mm from the aft end of the csp, which you can see at 9:50. Should've known they aren't simply going to slide off or they'd do it with normal use...
So in the video the catch shown at 5:15 is not for the chrome end piece "cep", but for the csp. There was another one just like it on the other side but it's broken off. So obviously the one is broke off which is why the csp slides so easily on/off, and the edge of the remaining catch is rounded so it barely holds. If you force your csp's off it'll be a gamble as to whether the catch will break or round off, but either way they'll likely be ruined like his.
If you're ok with that then force the csp's off. Rather than use pliers I would put a small slot screwdriver on the flat spot of the front end of the csp and smack it with something to drive it aft and off. Then force the cep and it's apart, but you'll need to use some glue to hold it together now. I'd use silicone sealant since it'll hold something like this just fine, but you can take the parts off later without damaging them. Unlike epoxy or super glue...
If you want to get the csp's off without breaking the hooks you'll have to remove the cep first, which also has a hook on each side holding it in place. The reason you need to remove the cep first is it's blocking the movement of the catches for each csp, so once the cep is out, the hooks for the csp's can be pried a bit and the csp will slide off. The problem is the csp's are also blocking access to the catches of the cep! So catch 22... You can kinda access one cep catch which is the catch the poster notes at 5:24. The catch for the cep on the other side doesn't move so it has to be forced off, but we'll get ot that in a min.
To move the catch at 5:24 back to release that side of the cep you'll need a very small screwdriver or whatever pry tool because it's pretty hard to get to. I wish I had a picture so you'll just have to find it yourself, but it's kinda small and to make things worse, the catch is not in the middle but on the button side of the key, so it's deep in there.
So with the batt cover off, look into that area with a flashlight and ideally some magnifying glases and you should be able to see it. The tool I used was a very tiny slot screwdriver about 1.5mm dia. If you don't have one then maybe an eyeglasses screwdriver would work? So I carefully pried the catch back, just a little because I don't want to break it, and with another tiny screwdriver I pried the cep up on the side corner by the unlock button. I only pried up a couple mm because the catch on the other side is still holding the cep. As mentioned, the catch on that side has no way to release it so I simply forced it by prying that side up and off using a small screwdriver. Again I pried on the button side since the catch is on that side. Despite that my cep still snaps on and stays put. It's not as strong now since the catch is rounded, but it's good enough.
The slot for the catch in the cep (that you can access) is about 5mm down from the aft end. The slot on the other side is about 4mm down, which is just an fyi since you can't actually access it.
Once the cep is off you can easily see the hooks for the csp's, and you can see why you can't unlatch the catches without first removing the cep. So I'd at least give this a try, but if you can't then simply break the catches for the csp's and glue/silicone the csp's back on.
Notes: The poster mentions the slide catch for the removable key also holds the cep on, but that's not its function, it just happens to kinda/sorta hold it because its catch is inside and the slide is on the outside of the cep. I'd imagine if you relied on it to hold the cep on it would break the side catch and you'd lose both.
Be super carful prying the glued case apart because you don't want to damage the delicate/expensive electronics inside! You also don't want to bend the plastic and have an obvious gap on the end. So I pried it very slowly so it came apart nicely and did not bend the front. I then trimmed off a lot of the messy melted plastic with a razor so the two halves go back together perfectly. Once done I can't even tell it was ever apart.
If you want you can use a little bit of clear epoxy to hold the two plastic key halves together, but I had no need and I may want back in there some day.
Fyi; the reason I took mine apart was to make it harder to activate the trunk button, which I discovered would sometimes be activated by other crap in my pocket so if i was close enough the trunk would pop open! The day I saw the trunk was open all night was the day I took the key apart! I also do not want the Panic button to activate by accident...
If you look at 17:25 you can see the little nubs on the back side of the key half that push the actual switches on the circuit board. I used a Dremel to grind about .025" off the trunk nub so now I have to push about 4x harder to activate it. The panic button took much less material removal to get the same effect. So if you're like me, just grind or cut a little at a time until you're happy with it.
I also modded it to accept 2032 batteries, which last longer and are way easier to find that 2025. You can use 2016 too, if needed in a pinch, just shorter life span. If you want 2032 then just look at the two little spots where the plastic is preventing it from sliding in there, and shave that plastic off.
thank you for your excellent guided steps 👍
Thanks so much for this video. So helpful.
You are AWESOME, thank you so very much from UK...
That was my exact problem. I shut my trunk on my key and it bent down the tab. I hope if is fixed now. 🙏 thank you so much
Thanks,, I like this,, it has helped me get around a customers key. Thanks
HELPED ME OUT.. THANKS MAN !
Thanks man!
I've ripped middle metal section first and completely ruined plastic catchers, spring got flying loose. Mama mia. But with the magic of superglue everything went back.
If you take it apart again be sure to remove as much super glue as you can with a adhesive remover that is safe for circuit boards and most Plastics there's one that I use it works really good it's kind of feels and looks a little bit like WD-40 and speaking of you can WD-40 you may try electronic circuit cleaner but be careful with some brake parts cleaner because they can damage the plastic the point is is it when you go back in to change the battery again or whatever don't you superglue use like black urethane in the metal tube, a clear flexible caulk etc. You something that will have hold and be waterproof while being able to have flexibility and the ability to be easily pulled apart or sliced through
Thank you, good to watch. This is a different (and potentially less reliable?) mechanism to that seen on circa 2008 fobs (mine is a W211 E Class). On the 2008 versions the chrome top piece, with innards attached, slides out in one piece and battery replacement is very simple. To disengage the top piece the short part of the key is used on the sliding tab just inside the top slot, which disengages two tiny stays, one on each side of the chrome top piece... then out pop the innards all in one piece :-)
Can you take out the electronic part while the fob key is stuck in the ignition???
Yes i ve that car but in european version its great car indeed ..but i ve noticed its remote range is short you have to be beside the car unless it doesn't work ..i 've changed the battery but it is same... i think it is not along range like new cars i don't know why? If you know why please tell me thanks bro
There's a spring on the top housing that you didn't explain.
My coil inside my key is blue could this be the reason my key doesn't turn in ignition
I wish i would have seen this video 5 hours ago, on 2010, C350 cdi , that would have saved me taking the steering rack out, to get to the electronic metal lock, then drill a hole in it to unlock the steering wheel so car can be moved, take the unit out, then it can be sent off along with my key and the key entry infra red socket to recode to some guy on Ebay. When everything stopped working, doors wont open or lock, when push the key fob in, dash board light wont come on and there is none of that mechanical sound to unlock the steering. So all communications were disabled even though car was working perfectly all day long, turning the key on and off with no issue so many times as I taxi in and around London. All of a sudden, fob didnt lock the car,i tried again 4 times to lock but locking as I was leaving the car. So I took the Fob battery out and put it back on, thats when i didnt hear the ignition sound then saw a dash message "Key is being initialised".Few second later, NOTHING. I knew it was the key causing it, replaced the battery on the fob, still noting, even AA man nor my mechanic could figure out what the problem was, that why all these modules taken out to be sent off to recoding. If I only seen this video before we could have tried the key fob before all that...
So what ended up being your problem? Was it the key fob no longer programmed? Or was it your ESL electronic steering lock? Or was it the EIS electronic ignition system? which is what you plug your key into and has that lil red dot. Let me know please. My car was working fine then stopped turning
Thanks
But the key is not waterproof any more.
The Sides of my Key cannot be slide off... we also don´t see it in your Video how you did this. Impossible!
25 minute video to explain a 5-6 minute task !
i cannot remove the side chrome for the life of me
Same here. And if you are like me im sure you dont want to damage them with pliers.
It's easier to pry them off , there's a tab at the top of them for this very purpose.
Friendly advice: Invest in a tripod!
slide the Side Parts off with a Pliers.... yeah "safely"... would like to know how many People needed a new Key after that... *lol* Not everyone has the sensitivity which is needed.
Thank you
I just damage my new one cost me $450😔
Why is this video 25 minutes.....
well if you saw it all it means you did not know how to do it and it helped you, you just might want to be greatful, I am
Dude! Get a go-to and use your other 5 fingers. I felt sick after watching it. Also show how to remove and installed 3 metal pieces.
What a badly made video
Worst demo
how to get the chrome cover off????