10 Minutes To Better Pen Making - Pen Blank Coloring Techniques - Mark Dreyer
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- Want to differentiate your work? Not ready for casting? Let’s try some wood pen blank techniques that will have your friends saying - “Wow - Now that’s different”. We will explore bleaching, dye coloring, and surface coloring. Thanks for watching.
In this series of videos, I plan to take individual topics and explore them and discuss them 10 minutes at a time. I will use my 25 years as a pen maker to give tips and tricks on the topic. Each topic will only be 10 minutes. We will explore everything from kit and blank selection, to drilling, to turning and turning tools, finishing, and marketing and sales.
If there is a topic you would like to see discussed, please leave me a comment. Thanks.
Sponsor: Exotic Blanks - www.exoticblan...
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Great info on coloring; was info that I'll be trying right away. Much appreciated!
Interesting video. It is amazing how a couple of extra steps can make a difference in the color and grain of a blank. I turned a pen blank with light maple from a cutting board. I colored the blank with a black Sharpie and wiped with DNA, added another coat and finished with CA. Came out rather nice, if I do say so.
Thanks for watching - I saw the picture of the sharpie coloring and think it looks great. Never thought of that ...
OMGosh! Bleaching is awesome, so easy and inexpensive. Can’t wait to try it.
Let us know how it works for you. As mentioned wenge and black palm bleach very well. Purpleheart bleaches to antique. Just another way to differentiate your work. If you have any questions feel free to email me or reach out.
Excellent video. Sometimes we tend to overlook the simple techniques. Thanks Mark!
Great video!
Thank you very much for your videos
Adding: do you use full strength household bleach? Do you do anything after the application of the bleach. Curious minds want to know.😉 Thanks two whole bunches.
Sorry for the brief delay. Full strength bleach and just dry after. I turn to final dimensions, bleach, let dry (48 hours), steel wool then finish. Hope this helps - please let me know if there are any other questions. And thanks for watching and all the comments. Always like the "conversation". Sincerely - thanks.
Fascinating. All three are most interesting. I am most concerned with the use of bleach. I have used bleach in other contexts. It can damage some materials - cloth for example - and it leaves a residue which can interfere with the way some things work or even last. Are you aware of any negative long term consequences of the bleach technique on pens in general or on specific woods, adhesives, or finishes?
This is a common question - does it effect gluing and the tube / does it effect the finish. I have been doing this for many years and never had an issue with glue - I use a 5 minute epoxy (I talk about why in an other video). As for finish - never had an issue with that. As mentioned in the video I do wait at least a day or two before working the finish. The longer the better. I used to use other CA then lacquer now GluBoost. Never an issue and they have held up for years. Sincerely let me know if you try it and your thoughts. Thanks for watching.
Your programs are excellent and I really appreciate the quick response.
Great video. Don't you love Dawn and Ed at Exotic Blanks. They are wonderful.
I have been fortunate enough to have met Ed in the 90's and more recently getting to know them working on the Midwest Pen Turners Gathering. Great people. Thanks for watching.
Cool coloring techniques. Always thought that sometimes it’s a wasted effort to dye with stabilizing when you only see the surface. Gotta do em. You use m mesh on bare wood before CA? I didn’t have much luck with Master Tint that I got with my first order of GB. I will revisit that. What I do have is plenty of trans tint and bleach. Loved the bleached Purple Heart ! Who knew? 😎
Thanks for watching. Yes I use Micro mesh on bare wood but only the first 2 or 3 papers. Check out my video on finishing and I go over that. After the finish I start with them again and go all the way through. Let me know if you have any or question or comment. I can also help with the Master Tint. I use it all the time. Let me know what you struggle with. Most of the time is using too much tint. I use less tint and more coats. Keep in touch.
what about using traditional wood stains? I've never used that for pens, but can imagine that a light wood could get stained walnut or similar? Have you done that on pens?
@Benjamin Vaterlaus Stain will work - but I rarely do it. I do appreciate that you are now thinking of other things to try. As mentioned - at my club we once did a challenge with a 25 cent piece of maple to get something different. Any option was open. Feel free to let me know what you try.
Have you tried bleaching granadillo, cocobolo, or padauk? These woods have such beautiful grains and color, that it never occurred to me to try bleaching. I have bleached wenge, and like the results, but never let the bleaching go beyond 30 minutes...I'll have to try the 3 hour test. Thanks! I just subscribed.
Never tried the wood you mentioned. Let me know if you do and what the results look like. I have let a wenge blank sit as long as 6 hours - but you do need top watch them so they don't get damaged.
@@markdreyer2865 It will be a month or so, but I'll update this conversation, Mark.
hi, im a little late to the party. ive been doing pens for a few years now as a hobby and for gifts. ive made several hundred. i pour my own epoxy and label blanks. i have less than perfect results with the epoxy adhesion to the label sometimes. do you have any advice or a previous video i should watch? also id love to talk one one one if possible
Mark,
I see that you turn without a mandrel... live and dead centers, perhaps ?
What are the items named that you use in your headstock and tailstock =, and where would I find them ?
Thanks !!!
Ed
It is actually a turn between centers setup that uses traditional bushings. I really like this setup because I get the benefit of TBC and perfectly centered blanks, yet still use the bushings that I can get at any supplier.
I get mine at Exotic Blanks - www.exoticblanks.com/turn-between-centers-mandrel-system-2mt.html
My only issue with the setup is the bushing tend to stick, therefore I use a 1/4" nylon washer between the mandrel and the bushings. Works great now. I believe (or ask for them) that Ed at Exotics now supplies the washers as part of the system.
Let me know how it works for you if you go for them. Thanks for watching.
@@markdreyer2865 If you order, be sure to get the correct morse taper for your lathe! Usually MT2, but some lathes are MT1
@@dawnkizer982 Thank you Dawn... I'm one of your clients, and love your products and customer service !
How about some segmenting blanks
Will work on it. My concern is getting it done in 10 minutes - so maybe I will do a simple one first, then add a few more parts. Thanks for the comment.
WILL THE PEARL X POWDERS WORK IN CA GLUE??? THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!
Pearl X Powders will not work in GluBoost. I have not tried mica in other finishes simply because I have found they do not have enough open time. I have tried Pearl X in GluBoost and it did not mix at all. Sorry. The MasterTints work great. Thanks for watching.
@@markdreyer2865 THANK YOU FOR YOUR GREAT VIDEOS YOU AND SOME THE OTHERS SHOULD BE A NATIONAL TREASURE
Where do you buy your products.on the last video.
If you are referring to this video the Artisan dye was Craft Supplies USA the TransTint was Woodcraft.
As for all my component sets and many of the specialty blanks (ones that I do not do) like Opals and Opal watch parts - I get them all from ExoticBlanks. Spectacular selection of wood also - try the Red Mallee Burl. The link is above as the sponsor of this video. They are the best in the business.